Curt, yes you can say what you use, please do not post any links. Anybody interested in the product can search for a source - super easy. (links expire/change over time and the unresolved link degrades search results)
Epoxy is an amazing product, just don’t buy the double syringe dispenser as it’s a hassle to use. Buy the product with the two individual bottles. There is no better glue available and I will say up front the gorilla glue product line is not a good substitute according to a chem. engineer I have discussed this with.
Brett thank you for your response and it makes sense.
I use DAP Rapid Fuse Super Glue. It holds well with both resin and white metal. I hold pressure for 20 seconds and by then it’s usually set. It takes 24 hours to fully cure.
There is a Crystal Clear version that I feel doesn’t work as well.
I normally use a toothpick for application. Just what I use.
Thanks for the tip Curt. I do use the 2 separate bottles, but always seem to get it everywhere, even when I mix just a small amount. Actually the problem I had was after blackening the metal pieces, I applied a small amount. The epoxy wouldn’t cure when the pieces were put together, even after letting set overnight. I tried a second application and the same result. I finally found that I needed to clean the inside of the brass tubing from the residue left from blackening. After that it set properly. That’s a tip I learned the hard way.
I forgot to mention when building the coal/sand shed, I had to scratch build one to fit the crane. The one provided in the kit was too small. You can see the comparison in the photo.
It’s been a while since I posted any updates. I haven’t been sloughing off! I’ve been busy with adding interior details to the structure. It would have been easier if I would have added details to each wall before the structure was assembled, but I didn’t know how much space I would have for what details. Since I built this for HO standard gauge, the tracks are wider and left less room, especially in the car shop portion of the building. It made things a little more difficult, but I was able to adapt things, and I’m pleased with how it turned out.
As I said from the outset that I “borrowed” ideas from previous builds posted here. You may be able to identify some of them, but I came up with a few of my own.
I dipped into my stash of detail parts for this and had a lot of fun.
First pics are looking through the doors, then individual area pics from above.
Really nice detail work Tom! Wow so much to look at and take in…love it. Isn’t it amazing how much an interior detail project like this just eats up the detail parts! So, when someone near and dear asks “why do you keep buying detail parts” you can kindly show them your work here!
I have walked thru the shops at the Nevada Northern Railroad in Ely, Nevada. You sure have captured the atmosphere of a railroad shop with all your details. Just fantastic tom
Thanks for the nice comments guys. Much of the inspiration has come from many of you on this forum. Grateful for it. Yes Ken, can’t have too many detail parts.
Moving on to the exterior and the roof. I have made some changes to the roof.
Here’s what I have done with the roof. The center/main section is constructed in such a way as to be removable. The 2 side sections are meant to be glued to the structure and thus not removable. I didn’t want to hide all the detail work inside so I constructed roof trusses for these so the whole section can be removable.
Hi Tom, This is looking really great, and your roof idea so you can view the interior is excellent. I always try to get the roof removeable otherwise what’s the point of doing all that work on the inside when noone can see it? Awesome, build. Thanks.
Fantastic progress and thanks for sharing all those pictures, Tom. I will use some of these as references for my detailing of the fabrication weld shop. I do love those dots of color sprinkled in.
The removable roof, while definitely an extra effort is a must on this build to showcase that interior.
