This thread was started in March, 2016
admin
March 2016 edited April 2016 in HO Scale Builds
Ken Karns will be conducting the official forum build for the HO Scale O’Neills Fabrication kit. I am very excited to watch and follow along as Ken brings his modeling perspective to this kit! Everyone is encouraged to participate but pictures will be limited solely to Ken’s build in this thread. If you would like to share your work on my forum (highly encouraged) please start a separate build thread.
KKarns
In keeping with SierraWest Scale Models history of unparalleled quality and innovative craftsman kits, is Brett’s latest release…O’NEILLS FABRICATION. I’m honored to be involved with this first forum build of this fantastic structure and diorama. With the opening of the box one gets a sense of order and the obvious organization and care that went into the components of this kit. These elements are coupled with a fully illustrated, 113 page construction manual. Perusing the manual, you are guided skillfully along the build taking each sub-assembly in order with concise and easy to follow instructions on every aspect of construction. Following my first read through of the manual (see figure 1), I was thrilled to note a number of new and innovative components, designs and techniques utilized with O’Neills. I love how Brett keeps each new kit fresh and unique! I will point out some of these as we move through the build. The excitement is real and the energy is building so lets get started with HO kit number 211…O’NEILLS FABRICATION! The first step with any of Brett’s kits, following the ceremonial riffling through the box, is a careful read through the construction manual. Brett’s manuals are a right of passage once you discover SWSM. No other manufacturer provides anything close to these manuals. A beautiful, detailed diorama is as simple as just carefully following each step of the manual and enjoy the experience. The construction of the Main Building begins by adding texture and grain to the stripwood. I work through this portion of the build with great anticipation and care as it will set the tone for the entire project. Brett carefully packages the stripwood and references the size in such a way as to leave little doubt which wood is being referred to, but make sure you work the wood per the instructions. The wood for the Main Building was grained with a steel wire brush and lightly passed through some fine steel wool to remove the “fuzzies” and stained with chalks per the instructions (see figure 2). Brett designed the Main Building to be a “well used building but not dilapidated or backwoods in appearance” so just a light texture to the wood and some knot holes. The instructions are very clear on creating these fast and effective knot holes with just the point of compass or similar tool (see figure 3). Next time I’ll be putting on some faded Ivory paint for a really nice effect on the Main Building siding. More later…
Ojaste
March 2016
I see you have got your coffee.
Wes
March 2016
Ken ive been waiting for this thread to get started. Cant wait to see what you do with it.
brownbr
March 2016
This ought to be fun. I’m looking forward to watching.
KKarns
March 2016
Marty, essential to any detailed SWSM build of course…
Yea Wes, I’m looking forward to it as well. Such a great kit here.
Bryan, having fun already. Glad to hear you guys will be following along.
KKarns
March 2016
The stripwood work on O’Neills Main Building siding is coming along nicely. The knot hole and weathered paint siding methods outlined are very easy to do, allow the modeler to be creative and personalize the structure depending on how you grain, stain, construct and place the knot holes and color the wood. This is why I love working with the wood at this point in the build.
A portion of the Main Building siding that has been grained, stained and knot holes added. The knot holes are placed randomly and vary in style but made with the same tool. Note the pointed awl used to make the knot holes. Don’t put all the knot holes in the center of the boards. Place them along the edge as well being careful not to split the wood.
Bulk of the wood for the Main Building with the weathered paint added. Note the great variation in the individual boards. There are two different board widths and three different thicknesses which creates wonderful contrast and shadows when put on the walls. This technique is super easy and yields great results
(O’Neills Construction Manual 2016).
MuddyCreekRR
March 2016 edited March 2016
Really like the effect with the paint..and the knot holes…looking good. I am also looking forward to the build…as I will anxiously..and patiently await the “O” scale version…
Jerry
March 2016
Ken I’ll be watching you. As I wait for the O-Scale version to. You look to be off to a good start. What did you use for the stain color??
Jerry
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Ken A great start and I shall be following closely in tropical Australia. Did you grain the wood on one side only or both sides to minimise any slight curl. I am using a brush card file
cleaner for the grain.
KKarns
March 2016
Thanks “Muddy”. I was real happy how the wood turned out and so easy to do. Love the random nature of the finished pieces. Time well spent here.
Jerry, nice to have you along. The stain was done by scraping fine chalk powder over the wood then blending into the grained wood with a brush and 70% alcohol, equal parts of 408.3, 408.5 and 234.3 (O’Neills Construction Manual 2016).
Hi Michael, nice hearing from you and you can invite me for dinner anytime! Right, the wood was grained with a wire brush on BOTH sides. The card filer is a bit aggressive for my taste but know many modelers that use it to good effect. The Main Building grain of O’Neills is designed to be light so a standard small wire brush imparts an appropriate grain.
Karl.A
March 2016
Great start Ken. love the tone variations in your boards, and the knot details. Cant wait to see your next steps.
Karl.A
Alan_H
March 2016 edited March 2016
Looking forward to your progress!
admin
March 2016 edited March 2016
This build will definitely appear on RRL at some point in the future…
KKarns
March 2016
Thanks Karl, I love how the main building is shaping up and the wonderful contrast to the other associated structures.
Alan_H, glad to see you’re following along. Great kit to work with here!
Hey Rich, what Brett said…and nice to have you following.
This is a good time to interject some relevant…no…required resources for anyone following along. Brett has posted some invaluable video tutorials on this site under Craftsman Kit University. Detailed accounts of weathering both the stripwood and resin castings among others. In addition, there is both an unboxing video AND a simply wonderful video walkthrough of Brett’s fabulous O’Neills Fabrication pilot model. I will be posting again this week so stay tuned…Ken
Coors2u
March 2016
Ken, this should turn out wonderful. I glad to see you doing this. Things look really great so far.
KKarns
March 2016
Hey Dustin, nice to hear from you. Appreciate that. Look forward to seeing you again at EXPO, I assume you’re going?
KCSTrains
March 2016
Ken,
I’m glad you are doing the build. I have the kit, so I will be following closely. I’m looking forward to meeting you at the EXPO. Now that I know what your feet and hands look like, I shouldn’t have any trouble picking you out of the crowd.
Phil
KKarns
March 2016
Right Phil, sorry to detract from the build so early on! You’ll love getting into this one, such a awesome kit. We’ll talk more about it at the EXPO…Ken
Karl.A
March 2016 edited March 2016
Love the pic of you at “Step 2” Ken… classic.
Step 1 - open the box, spread it all out and marvel at what you have infront of you.
Step 2 - sit back, relax, peruse the manual, keep glancing at all the stuff next to you.
Step 3 - get started…
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2016
I definitely have my priorities straight, with first things first. Planning and thinking about the build before starting is sound wisdom.
Bill
March 2016
Glad to see that I’m not the only one who enjoys reading the manual cover to cover. Short of actual building, I find reading the manual really relaxing! I’m so looking forward to this, Ken. You get better with every project and I can’t wait to see your interpretation
of O’Neill’s.
mayhaw9999
March 2016 edited March 2016
I’m really excited that you will be building O’Neill’s. Your attention to details is becoming legend around these parts. Looking forward to your take on this great kit while you give me pointers for my future attempt.
David U
Ojaste
March 2016
Ken, when are you getting the Sierra West coffee mug? Hint!
shay987
March 2016
Can’t wait to see what you do with this kit. You always amaze me and inspire me with you builds.
John
Coors2u
March 2016
I’ll be there.
KKarns
March 2016 edited March 2016
Bill, you’re so right regarding the manual. So many facets to why Brett’s kits are so superior to anything currently available, and the manual is one of those features. Not just an instruction manual, as you can just sense the passion and enthusiasm that went into the development and manufacture of the box and its contents in front of you. But as Brett so eloquently put it…an extension of the developer. I feel like Brett’s right over my shoulder going “that’s it…right…you got it” or “well that obviously needs re-done” as I follow along through the pages. Its like a new car, the first smug of chalk dust I get on the manual I’m trying to wipe it off, but by the time the diorama is complete the “bible” looks well used for sure.
David, well that was awfully nice of you to say. Made my day. I hope to do it justice as it, and all of Brett’s kits, deserves the best effort any of us can muster up.
Marty, good idea…Brett you need to start a spirit wear division. Put one of your beautiful daughters to work on that. Hats, mugs, shirts, etc… You would be at the EXPO even sitting in your lounge chair there at home!
John, don’t know what to say other than thanks so much. Really nice to hear that my work is a source of motivation for fellow craftsman. That’s what is so nice about the SWSM fraternity, all of us helping and motivating each other to put out some great work which there is more of that here than anywhere else.
Dustin, good…we’ll hook up and do a little “bench racing”…
I mentioned an update was coming and this small tid-bit is a precursor to a more comprehensive post of the wall construction of the main building of the O’Neills complex.
I hope nobody gets antsy at these smaller posts but, to me, this is the foundation for the rest of the build. Brett has done it again with O’Neills and came up with a new method for framing the windows and doors. I won’t give it all away but the stepped method of constructing the casing and frame creates such an awesome appearance.
The image below is the first door and window I worked up (left wall). I was bit unsure how the green paint color Brett put on the lining would look but after I put it on and installed it …wow it totally works…perfect with the siding and overall character of O’Neills. Note the weathered paint on the trim pieces. So easy to do and the look is spot on. Also notice the relief created by the lining and the trim. The wall is laser marked for keeping the vertical boards plumb, horizontal lines for butting board ends, header locations, etc…what more could you ask
for!
Nearly finished first door and window framing. This method is carried through during the build so I wanted to take my time and try and perfect the install. The trim boards are weathered with a little 408.5 chalk on your fingers and roll the trim between them. Avoid rubbing the trim piece with our chalky finger as you can rub the paint right off. Just lightly roll or press you finger down on the trim. This creates instant age and beautiful texture.
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Thanks Ken Some great looking window and doorway. Will you be showing how you went using the Ivory paint and alcohol please? I have not started waiting to see how you did it.
Small posts are great as it enables one, well me, to try and keep up.
admin
March 2016
I’ll be posting a video on the process Michael.
Wes
March 2016
Ken I love how all the baby steps merge together to create 1 beautiful picture at the end with Bretts kits. Wonderful start on the door and window framing.
Jerry
March 2016
Nice start Ken. Keep the updates coming.
Jerry
Alan_H
March 2016
Nothing wrong with smaller posts! It’s easier on newcomers, and for those of us who like to check in at lunchtime, not too much to absorb. Learning to take your time is half the battle anyway. Rushing almost always ends up with a re-do, at least on my bench!
Mike Engler
March 2016
Ken, this will be great and I’m looking forward to the entertainment. To be a good model builder you need to have time, some money, and patience. But the most important of the three is patience. And to teach you how, buy one of Brett’s kits. When I can’t build anymore I’m going to still buy Brett’s kits just to be able to read the manuals.
KKarns
March 2016 edited March 2016
Michael, Appreciate the thoughts on the door and window framing. Glad to hear the smaller posts are useful. I like seeing how a wall gets to where it is when finished.
Thanks Wes. Right, just follow the manual as things come together one step at a time.
Will do and thanks Jerry.
Alan, what you mentioned is worth repeating to those new to fine scale modeling…take your time and work
through the build per the manual and pay attention to the fine details of the build…you won’t be sorry and is time well spent.
Mike, hope I can keep it entertaining…we’ll see.
Here is the Main Building Left Wall with the finished siding. Doors and windows will be put in when all the other walls have the siding put up. The exposed area will be completely covered up by the Addition. I added the “out of place” piece of strip wood to the right of the non boarded over area just to add a bit of support for that wall of the addition even though it will not show.
Alan_H
March 2016
I’m really liking the look of the wall, and referencing the pictures on the main website I can see what part you are working on. The earlier pic showed just the bottom of this wall so, I’m assuming you have laser cut guides for where to stop the stripwood, correct? Then the addition just sits on top of what you have done? I’m really looking forward to mine, though I’m finishing a structure for the club at the moment. I couldn’t start if I had it in hand, but it will be nice to get my fingers in the box!
KKarns
March 2016 edited March 2016
Thanks Alan, right, Brett has provided laser cut liners for both keeping the vertical boards plumb and lines to guide where to butt two boards together in the same row. The wall board also has reference marks for where the “Addition” is spotted keeping it level and in just the right place with the siding installed. You just board a bit over the lines marked for the “Addition” and you’re good. The one board below the cut out that’s the lowest is
just over the laser cut line and the same for the top. These siding boards Brett provides are a bit thicker than the normal siding creating a fantastic look and a pleasure to detail, another SWSM first.
KKarns
March 2016
Here is approx. where the “Addition” will go. What an awesome detail.
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Ken Firstly great to know you are human with the wrong image.
Brett has advised he is preparing a video on using the ivory paint. Have those boards been treated with the ivory paint and would you like to comment on how you found the process. I have stalled building waiting to see how folks tackled the ivory paint process?
mayhaw9999
March 2016 edited March 2016
Ken,
Super start. I agree with Alan, small posts are good.
David U
Coors2u
March 2016
Ken, I love the look of that wood.
Karl.A
March 2016
Fantastic progress Ken and the results are as to be expected of you… ie.. top quality.
Great work so far and eager to see more…
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2016
Michael, sounds like you’re moving along well. Brett points out using a substitute if you can’t find the depicted color(s). Just don’t stray too far from the designed colors as this is important to keep the character of O’Neills. Brett spends a huge amount of time and effort researching the color scheme and what works and what doesn’t. Keep up the good progress.
David, OK, so small posts seem OK to most everyone following along. Thanks for the encouragement on the ceremonial start!
Dustin, I do to…Brett’s method of weathering the siding is awesome and so easy. Perfectly controllable to whatever look you want.
Karl, appreciate that buddy…I feel so comfortable working this fantastic kit up knowing you’re right there…Thanks!
I will be posting this week so stay tuned…working on the wonderful wall details of the main building…great stuff…Ken
KKarns
March 2016
Finished Rear Wall of the Main Building. The bottom horizontal boards are placed for spacing for the resin “concrete” dock casting and will not show once complete. I went ahead and stained the boards with AI even though they won’t show to improve the photographical depiction of the wall.
Note the subtile nail holes on the board ends and the slight increased weathering along the bottom of the wall and where the boards meet the framing. Board on board allows for such varied detail to suit the builder.
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Ken I really like the slight increased weathering along the bottom of the boards. I must try that. Do you add some chalk to the tip of the tool you use to make the nail holes to make them a little more apparent? Maybe its just the close up photograph that makes them more obvious.
KCSTrains
March 2016
Ken, as you know we have discussed nail holes at length. I really like the subtlety you used on these nail holes. They are there, but they aren’t there. I will definitely try to emulate. See you next week. Phil
KKarns
March 2016
Michael, I make the nail holes after adding the texture to the board ends then apply some dry chalk with my finger. After the boards are put in place I come back with a very fine pointed brush and hit the holes with a very small amount of AI. You’re right, the close up shots certainly heighten the visibility of the nail holes.
Hey Phil, I like how you put that “there, but they aren’t there” just what I was after!..In 1:87 scale actual nail holes would be virtually invisible to the naked eye. What I am going for is just a hint they are there with the naked eye and just a bit obvious with the close up photography. Like many details, each one on its own may provide little impact to the overall structure or diorama. But, put multiple details together such as the case here with the nail holes, detailed boards ends where they butt together, more weathered boards along the bottom, a bit darker along the bottom where moisture would have a role, damaged lower trim, etc… and the impact is very apparent. Look forward to seeing you…Ken
Wes
March 2016
More top notch modelling Ken. Look forward to seeing that resin dock come to life. The staining at the bottom of the boards is an often over looked detail many modelers miss. Thanks for pointing it out.
mayhaw9999
March 2016
I really like the “damage”. Nail holes are just right. Phil’s description is perfect.
David U
KKarns
March 2016
Hey Wes, Appreciate that and I can’t keep straight all the cool features of O’Neills that I can’t wait to get to and the resin dock is certainly one of them. I’m really looking forward to working up the doors and windows on the Main Building coming up. Almost as much fun as the siding. So important at this stage to work carefully and follow along the manual with the doors and windows, so much character is established here.
David, Regarding the “damaged” area to the dock framing in the above image. One must keep in mind what will and will not be visible in the final diorama. I forgot to check this when I made that damaged area but fortunately when I went to O’Neills page here and checked the pilot model, it appears my damaged area will likely just show. In other words, why make a damaged area that will be covered by a stack of crates or something else in the finished diorama. Maximize these effects without having to re-arrange things just so it
shows. Also, a prime example of why Brett’s HO and O scale page photos and and the manual images are so useful when building the kit. Should be finishing up the Main Building walls this weekend and then on to the windows and doors as I mentioned…Ken
carefully going over the window and door details coming up…I’m working!..
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Ken Could you please explain the way and order you added the extra weathering at the bottom of the boards. Did you follow the manual and add over length boards, cut back and then add the weathering? I tried adding the weathering before fitting the boards but found getting the board length correct not so straightforward.
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Ken Your cut wall edges look so great I would appreciate knowing whether you used a side cutter or if you used lots of slow passes of a blade in the “traditional” manner please?
KKarns
March 2016
Hi Michael, I like adding the weathering before fitting the boards as it gives me complete control of the process. I place the unweathered board perfectly level with the bottom of the wall template and while holding if firmly in place mark the spot where I am going to cut it with a small mark with my #11 blade. Of course this is marked only where boards will be butted together or under a window or door sill. If the board goes goes the full length
then I let it overhang the top and trim later after they are all in place. I then take the board and cut where marked and then weather both ends and glue in place keeping the bottom lined up flush. As Brett details in the manual, the siding of O’Neils Main building is thicker than was used in previous builds. This thickness gives a wonderful look and texture to the siding but is hard to trim with the standard passes with a #11 blade. Brett recommends trimming the excess with side cutters and follow with a light sanding with a True Sander or equivalent. I trimmed my walls this way and it was easy and worked perfectly. Just sand
lightly and check your progress often as you do not want to sand into the template.
Michael_Pearce
March 2016
Thanks Ken. I shall follow yours and Brett’s advice. The laser guidelines on the templates makes getting the boards square really easy, perfect for people like me, apprentices in this field having started well into retirement. Between the excellent manual and your build and tips the next level of help would be someone actually building it for me.
MikeM
March 2016 edited March 2016
This may be a bit sacrilegious but shouldn’t harm the tool I wouldn’t think; anyone tried a pair of flush cutters (e.g. rail cutters) for this kind of task? My main concern would be whether they would cut wood cleanly enough, not crush the ends given the comparative softness of the material.
KKarns
March 2016
Michael, there you go…follow the manual and things will come together very nicely. Hey, I love the laser guidelines as well…keeps the vertical plumb as well as providing guides for butting boards together and allowing you to break the template into sections for applying the siding so the board count comes out perfect.
Mike, not an issue with the cuts being very clean and then with a light sanding they come up spot on. I have posted a close up of just such a wall (O’Neills Rear Wall) trimmed with a pair of sprue cutters and lightly sanded. I believe anything that would make a nice straight vertical cut would work fine.
MuddyCreekRR
March 2016 edited March 2016
Really like the texture and color…I gave up on the HO years back…fingers grew too big…and eyes too small…as stated,those nail holes are just…there…keep up the fine work…hope to see/meet some of you in Danvers…
KKarns
March 2016
Thanks much Art. We’ll hopefully hook-up at the show. I will not be posting until I return from the 2016 EXPO and leave Wednesday morning. Until then…don’t get too far ahead…Ken
Ojaste
March 2016
Ken, you are putting me to shame. I’m not proud, so do it some more.
Karl.A
March 2016
I love the look of those walls Ken, fantastic work, your detailing of these is superb as always. Pity we are gonna have to wait for updates though…
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2016
Thanks Karl, appreciate that and the show will not be the same without you and Brett there that’s for sure. I’m certain O’Neills will be a topic of discussion on several fronts and honored to be in the thick of the conversation or at least the brunt of it! Taking the O’Neills manual with me to “study ahead”. Great scene…Ken sitting in the hotel dining area with breakfast, a cup of coffee and studying the O’Neills manual…
Marty…nonsense…I’ll scold you in person at the show!
ironmountainlumber
April 2016
Hey Ken,
You are moving along with this project. Textures and color are fantastic. This is really interesting kit. I was wondering if you had finished your diorama prior to starting and then saw your were best in show. Great job. Keep up the fantastic detail work. This one will be a winner too!!!
Jim
Ojaste
April 2016
Ken, I told you so!!!
KKarns
April 2016 edited April 2016
Hi Jim, that’s right. I finished up the Loco and Service Shops diorama the same week the O’Neills kit arrived. I finished up all four walls of the Main Building of O’Neills before leaving for the EXPO. O’Neills is an awesome kit with loads of character. Glad you will be following the build. Thanks for the kind words. Hey Marty! Trust you made it back to Canada without a hitch. Great talking with you and your charming wife. I feel the need to nominate her for sainthood hanging with you all these years! I for one was ready to deport you if you hadn’t left on your own accord…just messin with you of course. Great diorama and the lead up with the videos was great. Thanks again for the great company…
Ken
Alan_H
April 2016
I’d like to make the next Expo. Although I said so elsewhere, congrats on your award Ken. On a more selfish note, I’m glad you’re back and we’ll be seeing more work. It got awfully quiet here while you guys were all gone! I have a terrible dilemma. I was going to start the Loco & Service Shops when my current project is complete, but I spoke with Brett and my O’Niells is only 10-14 days out. I’m debating on starting it instead and building along with you. Decisions, decisions!!!
KKarns
April 2016
No, you better make the next EXPO! Thanks again Alan, appreciate it. Oh my…that is serious…hmm…I’m partial to the Loco and Service Shops as you may know…but, O’Neills is so cool how could you resist diving in? Would enjoy having you along to keep an eye on me. Patiently awaiting your decision…Ken
KKarns
April 2016
O’Neills is coming along nicely. The Main Building wall siding is done including the corner trim on the side walls. Next up are the window and doors for the Main Building. Note the board detail shot of the Right Wall…keep in mind the board end nail holes are very subtile when viewing without magnification.
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
They look great Ken and certainly more nails than mine.
KKarns
April 2016
Hi Michael, thanks and the nail hole issue is very much a like or dislike kind of thing. This tall wall would for sure have had many butted board ends. May be slightly overdone here as far as the numbers but again a very subtile detail on the final look of things. Once all the wonderful details such as the Tower, stairs etc. are added the number of visible board ends will diminish and I think what you’ll be able to see will look really quite plausible. On to the windows and doors…they are primed and ready for detailing…ken
Ojaste
April 2016
Ken, I See you are moving along. The board ends, is there structure that they nail into on the interior? How are the boards held flat without nails in the middle of the board? I do like the board width variations.
ironmountainlumber
April 2016
Very nice, most excellent! I am hoping Brett will post the peeling paint technique soon. It looks really awesome. It is much nicer than using the terry cloth towel technique to simulate peeling paint. Are the window and door trim done by mixing water based paint with another agent to make a stain or just painted on? I don’t know about you but one of the things I really like about the swsm kits is all the new techniques you pick up along the
way! GREAT JOB!
Jim
Alan_H
April 2016
Liking! Are the wider siding boards there because they will not be seen behind, for the lack of a better word, the “tower”?
KKarns
April 2016
Marty…water proof wood glue…nail hole detail throughout the siding may be prototypical but looks terrible in 1:87, however, appropriate nail holes on board ends tends to give a nice weathered, board-on-board, realistic look if not overdone. The variation in board width is a great detail Brett designed. I love it.
Hi Jim, The peeling paint effect is so easy and looks really good. The manual details the process quite nicely, the video will confirm just how simple and effective it is. You nailed it…Brett keeps things on the cutting edge and allows the modeler to discover and perfect new techniques. No one in the industry comes close to this kind of attention and value to the end user.
Alan, right…the wide boards on the two walls will be covered. The Rear Wall will have the lower portion covered by the resin “concrete” dock casting and the Right Wall (tall one) will have a portion covered by the Tower as you mentioned. I just stained them as I’m OCD and felt the pictures would look better with those boards colored rather than “raw”.
Ken
Bill
April 2016
Moving right along, Ken and it looks terrific. I was just talking to Brett about your peeling paint effect on some of the smallest pieces (window frames, mullions, etc.). Your legacy in that area continues on O’Niells! In the second picture above, that’s a shadow on the left side correct? Or is that a different wall from the pic above it?
KKarns
April 2016 edited April 2016
Way to go Bill, point out my meager photography skills…yea, shadow along that side…same wall as above. The issue is the weather has been poor here either windy or rainy since I got back so no outside shots yet. Thanks on the peeling paint. Couldn’t believe how easy it was and how you can control the amount of peel effect not only when applying the paint but after that when applying the final layer of chalk…rub a little leave more paint…rub more and take more off… Glad to hear you made it back safe and sound from the EXPO. Next time I see you, you best have Quincy Salvage in tow!..Ken
Bill
April 2016 edited April 2016
Hey, I had to ask. Who knows! I thought maybe it’s the wall near where the oil sump is positioned and you were working up some grime to tie into it. Okay, so shadow it is, then. (I’m SUCH a tool!) Almost didn’t make it back…snow delay out of Boston (in April??) and a missed connection in Chicago made for a really long day. Quincy’s is on the sideline for a while. I’ve got an itch to try something a bit different here in the near future…
Back to the thread at hand, I’m eagerly awaiting your work on that tower structure and the big oil tank. My opinion: those two features alone are reason enough to build this beauty!!
KKarns
April 2016
Right, we ran into the same crappy weather on the drive home. Hate to see you shelf Quincy as from what I have seen is going to be a killer diorama! Those features you mentioned are signature pieces to this build for sure.
Here are a couple of pics of the ceremonial first wall of the Main Building with the door and window installed. Had originally made the transom window on the door open but didn’t like how I did it. Also, glass seems a bit dark so will lighten that up. Note the rusty old can holding the window open.
Karl.A
April 2016
Fantastic looking walls Ken, the layers and depth to those windows is just fantastic, and the old rusty can is a great touch.
Karl.A
Alan_H
April 2016
I love how the wood is distressed. I’d like to see a video on that technique sometime. On another subject, I got the magic e-mail! O’Neill’s is coming! Along with the paint set. Christmas in April! I’ll be joining you in this build. It was a tough call, but I’ve been looking at old threads over on Railroad Line and the group builds look like they were a lot of fun with really useful discussion generated. I have a business trip next week, up to
Canada, returning Saturday. Then I’ll be getting started. This will be fun!
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks much Karl. Has to be one of my favorite parts of a build! These windows and doors are terrific and give the wall so much character. Wasn’t happy with how dark the window “glass” appeared and then it struck me…photo was taken with a black background. Had to re-post a picture of the first wall with the windows more as they really appear. Digit included for scale…not really…Ken
KKarns
April 2016
OK…had to include this…
Like all the rest of you who build SWSM kits as a passion and addiction, I know Brett leaves out a vital step throughout the manual…he says nothing about the need to set out all the finished walls and other components and look at them for extended periods of time. Go get a cup of coffee and look at them some more, ask your family members to “come look” for the 3rd time, arrange the walls in front of you by propping them up on misc. stuff on your bench. So…during one of these vital sessions I noticed something…and felt it summed up
the quality and craftsmanship of Bretts kits..
The image below is of the Rear Wall with the Freight Door installed. Disregard the dark image but is was taken like this on purpose…After competing the siding and before putting in the freight doors, a piece of strip wood is placed on the bottom of the freight door opening. This gives the look of the floor of the structure continuing on past the viewers sight. In addition, the freight door opening is lined with trim previously. All that detail and look how perfectly centered the freight doors are complete with laser cut hinges! I was
amazed when I caught this view with the background lighting. Talk about precision. I didn’t touch the door frame or door edges to create this perfect fit. I positioned one door slightly open towards the inside and as Brett suggested in the manual, cut out one slat of the bottom door panel to show typical damage from constant use. More pictures of the completed wall to follow.
KKarns
April 2016
Here are a few pictures of the wall illustrated above highlighting the awesome freight doors. Notice the piece of strip wood placed on the bottom of the door opening. This gives the nice look of the floor continuing on into the building…Ken
KKarns
April 2016
Added this image as the previous didn’t show the nifty side window hinged at the middle and tilted open a bit…love it…Ken
Alan_H
April 2016
Turning & burning Ken!
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
Your silhouette picture of the freight doors showing the air between the hinges and at the top and bottom of the doors is better than great. However I have kept the air showing along the hinges, but not wanting accidents with doors falling in when I am heavy handed, I have used some adhesive along either top or bottom showing less air than you have.
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks for the feed-back Alan. Appreciate it .
Michael, the light will likely not show but used to illustrate the perfect fit of these doors. I actually used a little glue along the back as well to further secure the doors.
KKarns
April 2016
Yo Alan, sorry missed your previous post and what a good one. Nothing better than getting a kit in the mail from Brett and a killer paint set to boot…let the good times roll!
Happy to hear you’ll be working up O’Neills as well. The wood prep is one of my favorite areas and one that is so important as it sets the tone for the entire build. I think that’s a motto or something, at least it should be. More later…Ken
Karl.A
April 2016 edited April 2016
Doors look fantastic Ken, Love the missing board, the dirtied up windows just look so good.. and dirty.. and nasty, like they should. The backlit shots really show the precision of Bretts kits, just a perfect fit all around, that’s one of the things that makes a SW kit such a pleasure to build, that and all the great new techniques you learn. Half open window is such a nice detail… looking forward to more.
Karl.A
Ojaste
April 2016
Ken, i’m trying to see what the “real” color of the wall based on your pictures. That pics with the black backgrounds make the wall color darker and tge pic with the white/black backgrounds look different. I know its just the camera doing its thingy, but have you tried a grey or blue or green backgrounds? Or just outside. I suspect the colors are a lighter brown from what us posted. Is tgat true?
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks very much Karl, nice when folks notice the subtile, less obvious niceties of a SWSM build such as the perfect fit of the doors…Moving on to the addition and should have this underway enough for some pictures soon.
Marty, not to concerned at this point with the “true” colors of that walls as any of the pics are very close. Goal here is to detail the construction process, fit, texture, and components. Every wall is going to be a bit different based on the builder and his/her use of the weathering and coloring materials. The pic below was taken outside and most accurately depicts the color tone…Ken
Alan_H
April 2016
Got a call from home today at lunch. The box had arrived. That call made the afternoon at the office feel like four days! We’re happy! Now thumbing through the manual. The paint set is awesome too.
KKarns
April 2016
Alan, there you go! You’ll love this build. just take your time and don’t hurry to catch up as you’ll probably catch and pass me as I’m slow but steady…
I received my paint set as well and look forward to detailing some castings very soon.
Ken
KCSTrains
April 2016
Ken, sorry for the lack of comments since the EXPO. I’ve been moving and sick. I love your progress. Also, thanks for all the detailed descriptions. This is really going to help me when I tackle this bad boy. I also can’t wait to dig into the new paints. Keep up the good work. Phil
KKarns
April 2016
Phil, do you mean sick of moving! I know what you meant…sorry you haven’t been feeling good really hits you when you’re trying to get stuff done. Having a blast with this build. The board on board over the clapboard siding is just ridiculously easy and such a nice look. You’ll see soon as I complete the addition that gets this treatment…Ken
Alan_H
April 2016
No worries Ken. I’m the slow and steady type too! I will be traveling Thursday through Saturday. I’m going to be doing a segment on Trainmaster’s TV. Sunday will be the soonest I could do anything and I may not feel like it depending on how the travel sits with me. I’ll probably take the manual with me for reading on the plane, and begin wood graining & staining next week. I’m content to let you remain comfortably ahead in case I have
questions, or need these lovely examples you’re giving us! I’ll post my own pics on a different thread.
KKarns
April 2016
Finished up the Addition walls which are strip wood over clapboard siding. This method allows complete control over the board weathering and detail. Next up…the door and window for the addition.
David_C
April 2016
This is incredible. They way you are laying out this build really gives me more incentive to continue on building. I’ve just finished laying track and getting ready to finish my kits to install. Can’t wait for Brett to release this in O scale. David C
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks David, this is an awesome kit Brett has designed here and I know the O Scale version is going to incredible…Ken
KKarns
April 2016 edited April 2016
Will be finishing up the Addition which is a wonderful structure cantilevered out from the main building. First time utilizing stripwood over scribed clapboard siding. What an awesome look this gives. Quick picture of the gabled wall with the door and window installed. Not crazy about my finish on the door trim and may work on that a bit…more soon…ken…Ken
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
It looks great Ken and makes me think my window and door are too clean for this type of industry. I recall my days in the UK Motor manufacturing Industry, must make mine more dirty definitely thanks but i might miss out on the cracks.
KKarns
April 2016
Michael, that’s the beauty of board-on-board, you can make yours however suits you. I love to model a bit on the weathered, dirty, dusty, grimy side of things. I like the look of my widow trim as the door trim seems a bit blotchy. Easily corrected if I choose to. Ken
KKarns
April 2016
Completed addition to the Main Building. I have some signage to put up yet and still thinking on that. Next will be the Loading Dock overhang, detail the Front Wall and then the Main Building walls can be assembled…Ken
Bill
April 2016
I really like the contrast between the horizontal and the vertical siding. Add the two different finishes (peeled white paint and a subtle brown stain), the skill of Ken Karns and the craftsmanship of Sierra West and you get a winning hand! Looking good, buddy!
Alan_H
April 2016
I like the contrast as well. I went out last night and found Bluegrass Green at my local Michael’s. Had to substitute for the Ivory though! I found something that will be close enough. Tonight I start graining & staining!
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks Bill and the contrast of methods and materials is one of the premier signatures of SWSM kits as you’re well aware. The Addition is just that, a portion added later so the difference in siding design and treatment makes sense. I always strive to get the most out of Brett’s kits as I can…so we’re out to try and do it justice!
Hey Alan, great to hear. See if you thought the same thing I did…Bluegrass Green out of the bottle I thought “how’s that color going to work?” but it does, and weathers fantastic. I think I substituted the Ivory as well, but anything close to that will work great as Brett mentions. Keep us posted on your progress…Ken
KKarns
April 2016
Loading Dock Overhang is almost completed. The images show the roof covered only in tar paper at this point. More detailing with corrugated, well placed scrap wood, etc. This is to illustrate the weathering and streaking of the paper. Again, this is done to taste and a fair amount of the roof paper will be covered by the other details.
Jerry
April 2016
Nice job on the roof. Just the right amount of weathering on this.
Jerry
KKarns
April 2016
Thanks Jerry, Right, didn’t want an overly weathered roof here on O’Neills main building. Grey chalk on a medium sized dry brush and tap the handle while holding the brush over the roof. This gives nice random spattering of chalk “blobs”. Then take a small dry brush and streak the blobs down the roof. Beauty of this is, you can pick and choose which blobs to streak and then just blow off the rest and do it again until satisfied…Ken
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
Ken yet another really useful tip. I had been wondering how you did that roof, especially after looking at mine which is pristine, awaiting just the inspirational way forward. May I ask about the “faint white” lines along the lower edges of the tar-paper. Any advice there please?
Michael
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
Ken It worked well when I brushed “up” so some grey chalk caught against the tar paper ridge. I also found some chalks I picked up in a Norway Art shop, I could not get fine enough for your technique. Thanks another method which I hope will stay in my memory banks.
Alan_H
April 2016
“Hey Alan, great to hear. See if you thought the same thing I did…Bluegrass Green out of the bottle I thought “how’s that color going to work?” but it does, and weathers fantastic. I think I substituted the Ivory as well, but anything close to that will work great as Brett mentions. Keep us posted on your progress…Ken”
It is an unusual green, and I would have had some misgivings if I hadn’t seen the pilot model and your work. It is not, however, the most vivid color I’ve ever put on a structure. Another manufacturer once recommended some spray dye commonly used for floral arrangements. That blue was almost electric. With a little weathering it did work though. A common piece of advice I give to others is: “Relax, it’s just paint!” I guess I’ll just follow
that advice myself!
I didn’t get as much done as I’d hoped, but I did get the main building siding grained. Yard work & honeydo’s got in the way! That went well though, and I had a nice little pile of fuzzys and no split boards when I got done. I’ll post my progress over on the thread Mike Engler set up. He’s right, I don’t want to clutter this one. I will keep asking questions though and I have one: Did you thin the craft paint at all, or just use it straight from the bottle?
KKarns
April 2016
Michael, Right, the faint white lines are where the weathering chalks naturally built up giving it a nice weathered look I think. The chalk needs to be scraped very fine as you mentioned.
Alan, anxious to see what you do with this build and sounds like you’re making some progress. It’s a great kit as you know and I’m having a ball working it up. I did thin the Bluegrass Green down just a bit and darkened it slightly…just my personal “seasoning”.
Here are a couple quick updates shots of the detailed front wall with the two castings Brett recommends finishing and installing before the walls go together.
KKarns
April 2016
Those following can go the Bill’s Deer Creek Mine forum build and see how he utilized the same technique I’m using on the roof where you sprinkle the chalk and drag it down the piece you’re weathering. Gives a nice natural appearance and is super easy to do. Bill does a marvelous job on his Ore Bin casting with this…Ken
Alan_H
April 2016
I got the knotholes and the staining done last night. My knotholes are not as prominent as yours though I used a similar tool. looks like we applied about the same or similar amount of them. Maybe they’ll show up a little better after the ivory is applied. I was afraid to rock the scribe too much as I didn’t want to split the boards. Some were applied just by poking the scribe into the boards. Did you accent them with AI?
KKarns
April 2016
Alan, most of my knotholes were made somewhat elongate rather than just a hole. I made the holes after the staining but before the paint and I did highlight with AI and chalk randomly…keep up the good work and have been watching for your postings on Mike’s thread??..Ken
Michael_Pearce
April 2016
Thanks Ken another tip “after staining” for “simple” knotholes but do you do the toothpick knotholes before staining and as required later “'saw blade banding” before or after please?
Alan_H
April 2016
OK that explains it! I did mine before staining. I’ll do some after. The boards dried pretty light, so I did a second staining tonight. Pic tomorrow. They need to dry!
Alan_H
April 2016
This morning’s inspection of the stained lumber looked much better! I’ll add some more knotholes and post a pic over on Mike’s thread this evening, then you can let me know what you think.
KKarns
April 2016
Michael/Alan, I put in my knotholes regardless of the type after graining and staining as I like to selectively pick out the boards I want to put knotholes in based on their texture and color. I also like to hand detail the knotholes both in color; either with the same stain as the boards or a bit darker with either AI or other chalk colors, and texture detail. Now you see why I’m a bit slow! This is just how I like to do it and by no means reflects how to do it. The holes on O’Neills Main Building are very small and very simple to do compared to the
larger “toothpick” holes which I’ll be doing some on the Welding Shop. The toothpick knotholes and saw blade banding are certainly not required but are recommended to be tried as Brett has developed these techniques over years of modeling experience and he knows what looks right for the particular application. I love how Brett introduces new detailing techniques and I just have to try each and every one and work at it until I feel I have perfected it to my modeling expectations. Knotholes can be done before or after staining however you will have to detail the knotholes to blend and highlight the freshly
exposed wood if done after. Saw blade banding ideally should be done before staining as the technique will expose small amounts of fresh wood that would have to be dealt with and would be difficult to blend effectively after staining.
SteveF
April 2016
Ken, I’m really enjoying this build. I can’t wait to get the O scale version. This is one of Brett’s best designs and that comes with a lot of competition. As has been said here before, the quality of your modeling is outstanding. I’m learning with every post. I know this has been asked and answered before but if you wouldn’t mind describing the saw banding technique. Thank you for taking the time to post every step of this build.
SteveF
Alan_H
April 2016 edited April 2016
I’m kind of wondering about toothpick knotholes. I saw somewhere that using broom straws might be better for us HO scalers than toothpicks. Maybe on larger boards later I’ll try it. Did saw blade banding come from the Loco & Service shop build?
KKarns
April 2016
Steve, Thanks much appreciate that. The saw banding technique is outlined by Brett on page 52, Check Box #4 of the O’Neills Fabrication Manual “To simulate saw blade banding hold a single edge blade perpendicular or nearly so over the face of a board then lightly stab at the board. Don’t press too hard or you will cut the board. Keep the marks close together varying the angle and length of the banding from board to board for variety”
Alan, I like using toothpicks for my knot holes as it allows you to vary the size of the knot depending on how far you stick the tooth pick in and how big your initial hole is. broom straw tends to just give you one size. I sharpen the end of my toothpicks with sandpaper first to a fine point which is even smaller than a broom straw. Also when you cut your toothpick off it will “crush” just a bit giving a less than perfectly round knot which is ideal. Broom straw…not so much.
I did not use saw blade banding on my Loco Shop and Brett has described this technique in previous kit manuals. I would suggest practicing on some spare stripwood to see how you like it. I’m not that good at it but Bill, Karl, and of course Brett and others are highly deft at the technique. Like most details, don’t overdo it. less is more…Ken
admin
April 2016
One important consideration is where to apply extra details like small toothpick knots or saw blade banding. As I outline in the manual, the main building, addition, and tower do not include these extra wood details but the welding shop does. This creates an instant age difference and adds to the overall narrative. Of course it’s a personal choice but to add these extra details to all the structures dilutes its effect and visual impact.
KKarns
May 2016 edited May 2016
I have finished up the Main Building and glued the four walls together. Everything fit up perfectly with no gaps along the joining walls. Once the diorama starts to take shape a few more details will be added. My efforts are now concentrated on the Tower walls, windows and doors…Ken
SteveF
May 2016
With the subtle variance in the colors and all the wonderful textures, you have put a tremendous amount of personality into this building. It’s hard to believe you’ve worked all that into an HO structure. Well done! Can’t wait to see what’s next.
Thanks for explaining the saw banding technique. I plan to use it on my warehouse structure.
SteveF
brownbr
May 2016
Sure looks good. You did an impressive job of weathering the base board in pic 1. Great job simulating mossy/lichen spots.
admin
May 2016
Beautiful work! I especially enjoyed the last two pics… forget along the way with your attention to detail how small HO Scale actually is! Oh yeah - love the piece of old wood the main building is perched on in the first pic
too…
Coors2u
May 2016
That is some fantastic work Ken.
Karl.A
May 2016 edited May 2016
Outstanding Ken, until you put your hand in there its so hard to say this isn’t a larger scale. It always amazes me how meticulous you are, but that’s what makes you one of the greats.
I also love that Brett has developed techniques that are indiscernable between scales, Your HO results using Bretts techniques are better than 95% of the other O scale stuff out there. Very impressive work. Cant wait to see your next post, really enjoying this build of such a great kit.
Karl.A
(Don’t forget to darken down the end of that one board on the far right on top of the awning roof in the last pic…)
Alan_H
May 2016
Looks really good. I thought you said you were slow! I’m still graining & staining!
Bill
May 2016
That’s some solid construction, Ken and your peeling paint effect is outstanding! Love the light peeking out of the missing panel of the door in the last picture.
KKarns
May 2016
Steve, Thanks much and look forward to seeing how you do with the saw banding. I haven’t done much of that so just passing along the technique from the manual which will yield great results.
Bryan, appreciate that and I really enjoy this part of the build. Yea, you like my aged diorama base? Thought that might get a few comments.
KKarns
May 2016
Thanks much Brett. I kind of like an occasional picture with a hand for scale for just the reason you mentioned. Your kits are so good you do forget their scale. I took this idea from watching your Video Walk Through in which you, at one point, reach in and remove the fence and you realize this is a model!
Dustin, nice hearing from you and thanks. Having a ball with this kit.
Karl, appreciate that my man and nice having you wade in here. Once the Main Building is in place on the diorama base I’ll finish some minor detailing here. You are so right how Brett’s kits bridge the scales seamlessly. Re-loading for the work on the Tower walls and details…Ahh…I see it Karl…good catch on the fresh area on that board.
Alan, Thanks and it’s cool how just putting the walls together makes you feel like you have accomplished a great deal! On to “The Tower”…
Hey Bill, Right, the walls went together wonderfully and I was really pleased with the peeling paint effect Brett came up with for this siding. Looks good and very easy to do and control. I copied Brett’s lead in the manual and removed that panel to good effect I think. Thanks for your critique, highly valued as always…
mayhaw9999
May 2016
Super work again, Ken. Now if you will please go back to page 8, April 25 post, and tell me what tool you used to grain the 1:1 boards the wall is sitting on. That’s some over the top graining! Seriously, you’re doing a wonderful build and I’m looking forward to starting this one.
David U
KKarns
May 2016
Well thanks David and glad to hear you’ll be getting into an O’Neills build yourself, great kit…
Oh, you asked about the wood graining on page 8…I took some large nails and pounded them through a 1 x 10 board and then attached a chain to one end hooked it to my truck hitch and put a couple of snider blocks on top pot the board to add some weight and drug it over the wood…
MikeM
May 2016
Check out the Craftsman Kit University videos, Brett has added one for a damp brushing effect.
An O’Neills Fabrication Technique Video - Damp Brushing
Alan_H
May 2016
Yeah, I watched it last night and did my boards over again!
KKarns
May 2016
I have completed the initial Tower wall siding and trimmed the excess in preparation for the trim, doors, windows, vents, signage and all the other wonderful details that go into The Tower!. Do Not rush this step, as the Tower will end up as a major focal point of the diorama. Once the walls are together, a bit more detailing will be in order…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Looking real good Ken. What will the detailing be please as I could still do some improvements on mine.
Michael
KKarns
May 2016
Appreciate that Michael. Once the walls are together and the main details completed such as the vents, sign, doors, windows etc..I will then go back and create highlights, accents, shadows, etc. with selective use of chalks. A bit of discoloration where water would run down around windows and doors, along the edges where siding meets trim, that kind of thing.
Here is the same walls with the window and door openings trimmed out and the right and left walls with the full length trim on each side. Again, careful attention to fit and finish here is important
Wes
May 2016
Looking good Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Some close up pictures of that detailing , when you get there, would be a great help please.
KKarns
May 2016
Thanks Wes, nice hearing from you.
Will do Michael…
will be installing the finished windows and doors today or tomorrow…Ken
KKarns
May 2016
Tower walls with doors and windows installed. A few more details to add here and the walls will be ready to go
together.
Family photo of the Tower walls.
OK Michael, here is a close up of the details I performed on the right wall. Notice the slight darkening along the edges of the windows and doors that appear as shadows or weathering. Also the slightly darker vertical streaks at the corners of the window trim. This is all done in a very subtile manner or it doesn’t work.
Rear wall with some great looking freight doors. Love the look of the transom and the slightly open door…wonderful design.
Left wall with its third story window.
Front wall with the door trim not installed until after the walls are together. A really cool staircase feeds off this door landing down to the elevated door on the Main building. Again, great design concepts at work here…well done Brett!
KKarns
May 2016
Oh…the wall edges where the walls join will be dealt with after the walls are together. Notice the exposed wood here and there along the edge in the above picture. This will all be detailed once the walls are fitted up.
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Thanks Ken I shall see if I can emulate some of these.
KKarns
May 2016
I think I’m going to change the door on the right wall to an open in configuration which would be more prototypical in this situation and I think would look better. Will update with a picture once completed.
Alan_H
May 2016
Looks great. I don’t see much Ivory though. Is the color different for the tower, or is it lighting?
Alan_H
May 2016
Quick question Ken: I have sanded a bevel into two of the walls and was puzzled that this was not done to all four. I’ve usually done this to all four walls. How come only two?
KCSTrains
May 2016
Great work Ken. I really like the shadowing you do around the windows and doors. Subtle, but really effective.
Phil
KKarns
May 2016
Alan, thanks much. Right…the Tower is not colored ivory like the Main Building but rather stained weathered wood. This provides a great contrast to the Main Building and Welding Shop as designed by Brett from the get go.
The bevel only needs to be on two opposing walls. This is needed as the wall is thicker than the wood trim piece creating a shallow lip on the back side of the wall. The bevel allows clearance here and brings the siding up to meet the corner trim without interference from the lip of the template material. This process is outlined in the manual for both the Main Building and the Tower and makes for an excellent fitting corner.
Appreciate that Phil. Yup, the shadowing effect makes a big difference in the overall look and “feel” of the structure. Gives it a well used, in good repair, industrial look.
KKarns
May 2016
I moved the door on the right wall of the Tower to an opening to the inside configuration. Much better I think.
KKarns
May 2016
Initial go at signage for the Rear Wall. Sign just staged not glued to the wall yet. Trying to decide if its a keeper…Ken
KKarns
May 2016
As I received no response on my proposed sign treatment, I talked myself into it and it is now glued in place!
This wall is now finished except for the “tar” seal around the vents.
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Ken The sign is fine and well battered. I think they need a window cleaner fast or they can come and make mine a bit dirtier.
admin
May 2016
Tower walls, window/door treatment, and signage looks awesome. A beautiful contrast to the main building but will blend together perfectly.
Wes
May 2016
Sign looks good Ken. Maybe a rusty NBW or 2 where its been attached to the wall.
KKarns
May 2016
Appreciate that Brett and was hoping I’d get a thumbs up on the sign…such an awesome feature of this kit and this is just the first of several! Had such a blast working up the Tower walls, can’t wait to get them glued up and poised along side the Main Building.
Thanks Michael, the window looks dirtier than it really is as it positioned against a black background right behind it. Once it’s in play, it will be a bit more subtile.
Thanks Wes, certainly could do that but I did not want to over power the sign with to many extra details and my goal is to maintain the purity of the build as it comes out of that wonderful white box!
SteveF
May 2016
I’ve been following every step of this build. The tonality of all the colors in the tower are perfect. There is contrast in the trim, windows, and doors but it’s subtle and fits with the overall feel and age of the structure. And the shadowing is a great touch. I loved the sign when Brett first introduced the kit especially the way the lettering font perfectly matches the era of the building. Your weathering of said sign blends it perfectly into the rest of your weathering on the building. You’re much braver than me. I always get nervous weathering
signs and tend to stop too soon. Great work all around. Thanks for sharing it with us.
SteveF
KKarns
May 2016
Well thanks Steve, very nice thoughts indeed.
Wes
May 2016
Thanks Wes, certainly could do that but I did not want to over power the sign with to many extra details and my goal is to maintain the purity of the build as it comes out of that wonderful white box! I see where you coming from bud. Either way it looks fantastic. Keep up the good work.
KKarns
May 2016
Will do Wes and thanks…
I assembled the Tower walls today and still have a few more details to add. “Tar” seal around the vents, awnings, an elbow vent, wall mounted mailbox, front door trim, and a few small things and then the Tower will be attached to the “concrete” resin castings and attached to the the main building. Starting to get the feel of things…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
I agree awnings and some vents etc can be best added later. I damaged one awning when gluing the two buildings together and have not yet added the angle vent. Its looking impressive Ken. I must add some of those “shadows” but I have been working on the welding shop walls which I am fairly pleased with.
admin
May 2016
Ken, wow. LOVE the tower. Fantastic work!
KKarns
May 2016
Brett, that Tower was such a joy to work on. Such a marvelous design and went together so well. I absolutely love the board on board over the scribed siding, so much control over the finished product. I know there are a few more details to add but I couldn’t wait to get the thing posted!
Michael, Ahh…a bit heavy handed on the assembly? Just kidding. The manual has you install the awnings and angled vent on the Tower walls before attaching to the Main Building and “concrete” foundations to facilitate accurate placement. It is quite easy to manipulate the Tower so the awnings and vent can be placed properly and aligned. Glad to hear your Welding Shop walls are shaping up to your liking. Look forward to seeing them.
mayhaw9999
May 2016
Excellent! Excellent!! Excellent!!! Outstanding work as you always accomplish. Gives us all something to strive for.
David U
brownbr
May 2016
Love it.
KKarns
May 2016
David, appreciate that. This kit is so nice to work with I can’t help but get excited at each and every stage of completion!
Bryan, thanks for the few but pointed words…
I have completed the painting and detailing of the resin “concrete” foundation and loading dock for the Tower and Main building. Put the “tar” seal around the vents and attached the small wall mounted mailbox. Illustrated here is a mock up of how they will go together.
Note the detail of these wonderful resin “concrete” castings. Well done Brett!
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
As ever it looks great and the resin castings “pair” extremely well. I am still undecided about adding the "rubbish: on the loading bay canopy roof as i am not sure why it would be there being different to the ribbed seam roof above. But it looks well done on your model Bill.
KKarns
May 2016
Not everything that’s prototypical is going to look good in 1:87. The pieces of roofing and stuff on the Loading Dock overhang provide contrast and visual interest and breaks up the long smooth roof lines. I may have added a bit too much “stuff” but it was to give the impression of many fixes and repairs over the years with the left overs left up there! The ribbed seam roof was put on over a very dilapidated corrugated roof so that’s where the
pieces of corrugated came from as I remember…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Understood Thanks Michael
brownbr
May 2016
Still love it; The casting has a lot of character to it. Before adding clutter to it, you may want to consider some grease/oil stains given the nature of this structure.
KKarns
May 2016
Absolutely, great call and I’ll wait and see how the castings/clutter will be arranged before adding any grease/oil and dirt…Ken
KCSTrains
May 2016
Ken, I love the way this is going together. I also like the concrete - so real. Phil
Bill
May 2016
Wow Ken! You’ve got the subtle color effect down to a T! Very realistic.
As Phil pointed out, the concrete is spot on. I’m sure you know this, but it looks like the handle is missing on the tower freight door(s). I’m guessing they get added later. Or, you’ve get something special up your sleeve that’ll be revealed later!
Anyway, I love seeing it come together. You’re a man on a mission!
SteveF
May 2016
I’m in awe of the progress you’re making so quickly. I can’t wait to see what you do with the castings. Your tar seal around the vents is perfectly proportioned, hard to believe it’s HO scale. Can you share how you achieved such a fine line?
thanks
SteveF
KKarns
May 2016
Thanks much Phil, right, the concrete castings are really well done with so much detail.
Hey Bill, appreciate that and the door handles are set in rather than out.
Steve, I thought I was moving along a bit slow! Happy to hear the appearance is that I’m moving along at a reasonable pace. I mixed Elmers white glue with Brett’s new Reaper paint set 00111 Grimy Black and applied with a sharpened toothpick followed by a light dusting of chalk. Nifty that you noticed that…I like a fine line for my seals around things like that and will do the same on the angled vent you’ll see coming up…Ken
SteveF
May 2016
Thanks Ken. I have the new Sierra West Reaper paint set so I’ll try the combo above to apply the tar seals on my railroad camp build. I also like the idea of a light chalk dusting to complete the look.
SteveF
Alan_H
May 2016
Looks really good Ken, and giving me something to shoot for. I lost the whole week due to out of town company.
Had fun, but no time for O’Neill’s! The long weekend will hopefully allow me to catch up!
KKarns
May 2016
Right Steve, the final application of chalk tones down the slight sheen of the colored glue application and blends the transition lines.
Thanks Alan, gives me time to keep ahead just ever so much…of course not a race but a great journey…too
much fluff huh?
Alan_H
May 2016
Questions Ken:
I noticed my first wall curled a bit, even though I was pretty sparing in my application of glue. Enough to do the job but little to no oozing. Did you use any additional bracing to stiffen & straighten? Did you (or anyone else working) notice a tendency for the shims under the door and window frames to stick out from under the actual frame members? It’s easily remedied by a single edged razor blade and it is a very small amount of material, but enough to keep the siding “off the line”. Test fitting before gluing is a must!
KKarns
May 2016
Hey Alan,
No worries on the minor warping of the walls. Brett outlines this in the manual as “to be expected” and is easily corrected by both the addition of the corner trim AND the installation of the interior corner braces when putting the walls together. These are great and serve to straighten the walls and add support I did not have any issues with the shims sticking out. Make sure you’re using the correct wood of course which I’m sure you did (.012 x 1/16" x 4").
You nailed the last comment Alan, always fit things up “dry” before gluing to make any fine adjustments, I have caught myself on several occasions about ready to use the wrong wood but a dry fitting revealed my error!
Did I mention how awesome this O’Neills kit is? Probably have! Anyway, will be posting an update soon. All the Tower details are done and the Tower, concrete loading dock, and Main Building are going together as an attached grouping…more later…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
I added bracing and corner bracing to the tower but its best to leave it a little short at top and bottom to allow space for some of the card corner or square angle spacers. I only used half of those corner spaces 4 rather than 8 in opposing corners at the opposite ends if that make sense. No shim or insufficient wood problems.
KKarns
May 2016
Right, some folks like to use braces on their walls and if that’s what you’re comfortable with I’m sure they would work fine here with a bit of planning ahead for clearance. The corner braces Brett supplies have the benefit of adding a good bit of stiffness to the walls as well as taking out any minor warp that may be there. There was some discussion regarding the roof treatment. Brett outlines a great method which calls for priming the ribbed seam roof with great primer, let dry, then bake in the oven at 350 degrees for 5 minutes, when cool
weather with the listed chalks. I did exactly as the manual except I didn’t have any of the Mars Violet (538.3) so I substituted 339.3 which had a slight reddish cast to it as the Mars Violet does. And knew if I didn’t like the results I would just order some Mars Violet and go over it again. This of course was done after the other suggested rust colored chalks were
used.
Here is the initial coloring and weathering of my Main Building roof. The final weathering and highlights come after it is installed on the building…Ken
KKarns
May 2016
Oh…if you’re not following along this build at the moment, I should clarify the first image of the roof. It appears to be on one large flat piece, but actually is both side of the same roof that is then folded along a pre cut ridge line…see below. This roof also comes with adhesive already on the board backing with marked spacing lines for an effortless installation…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Great Ken I like the look of your roof. I shall now have a go at mine. Its baked and fitted to the boards waiting for me to venture with the chalks and I have the Mars Violet. As I live in the “backwoods”, well WhitSundays Australia really, I have to buy most things by post, often from overseas, which I do for new materials as soon as a kit arrived.
KKarns
May 2016
Right, I just failed to get my Marts Violet ordered but I knew my 339.3 was close. It looks a bit more brownish in the picture but it is on the reddish/purple side in reality. I just attached it to the main building and am detailing and getting ready to attach the addition roof…Ken
KKarns
May 2016
Couldn’t resist snapping and outdoor shot while the sun was out to give a more accurate representation of the color I achieved. Main roof attached and the final detailing yet to go and then the addition roof goes on…more later…Ken
Michael_Pearce
May 2016
Perfecto is the only word I can think off Ken for that last photograph. Definitely a winner.
admin
May 2016
That is wonderful Ken and reminds me why I make kits! Wow…
SteveF
May 2016
The colors on the roof are right on and a refreshing look from the typical rusted panels. I continue to be amazed at how you can achieve such heavy weathering without getting things muddy. Thanks for sharing all of your thoughts along the way.
Brett, the design, textures and details of O’Neil’s has set the bar for all other kit manufacturers. As I’ve said before, I can’t wait to get this in O scale.
SteveF
Alan_H
May 2016
Looks great Ken. Are the streaks in the concrete castings paint or chalk?
KCSTrains
May 2016
Ken, coming together nicely. I really like it. Phil
KKarns
May 2016 edited May 2016
Thanks Brett…and that’s why I only build yours! I was a tickled how close the 339.3 came to the target color.
Thanks Michael, I’m the king of crappy backgrounds on my pictures I think. I’ll have to be mindful of that in the future. As I said was anxious to get a shot up of the roof panels in the midst of discussion…
Steve, you got it…Brett’s a genius…as I was also skeptical of the roof color that was called for just as I was the green color of the the door trim on the Main Building. Both turned out perfectly fitting for O’Neills! Brett does an amazing amount of research into the color and treatment choices for his kits…I know this for a fact. Way more time than any of us could or would want to do. So when he makes a color or treatment choice in the manual you can bet it’s going to work seamlessly and be in keeping with creating the character and “flavor” of
the end product.
Appreciate that Alan. Right, the streaks are subtile use of chalks. I carefully looked for little cracks or indentations and from there formed the streaks of water staining, rust staining, etc.
Thanks for checking in Phil and glad you like it. I love how the roof is turning out…see comments above!
Joel
June 2016
Just catching up here. Beautiful work so far Ken. Stunning really.
Michael_Pearce
June 2016
Ken
Could you tell us a bit more about how you found the chalk application on the roof. The instructions are clear
but initially the chalk mainly just brushed off. I then re-brushed mine over and over with the first three chalks
as fine as possible. I even resorted to using the big finger from the sky but the roofs are still very light in
comparison to yours. I have applied the Mars Violet which darkened it but I am considering another brushing
session.
Its a great method, much better than any etching and much more controllable, but I think mine is too light at
this stage.
Coors2u
June 2016
Such great work Ken. I’m really enjoying watching this come together.
KKarns
June 2016
Michael, I didn’t have any trouble getting a good controllable amount of coverage with my chalks. As Brett instructs, I covered my roof sheets with a spray primer. After the first coat but before putting in the oven to cure, I decided to give it a second coat. I thought the primer I used didn’t give a good even coverage and I knew I wanted good coverage to allow the chalks something to bite and cling to. The second coat was much better and I followed with my rust palate of chalks, then the “Mars Violet” and didn’t have any issues with coverage as you see in the photos. I used a good heavy application and a medium to stiff brush and “stabbed” straight down as well as brush to get a nice application.
Thanks Dustin, nice hearing from you. should be finishing up the Main building and Tower assembly soon. So many nifty little details!
Michael_Pearce
June 2016
My spray primer was a bit thin and did not have any “bit”. Also I used a soft brush not a stiff one. Maybe another chalking and a stiff brush with some "stabbing. Thanks.
KKarns
June 2016
Michael, I thought mine a bit thin as well and gave it a second coat. I went fairly heavy on the chalks to get a nice coverage. Working on the fascia, rafters, and rafter tails…finish up the three stacks and the other sign and the Main Building and Tower assembly will be done…updates soon…Ken
KKarns
June 2016
O’Neills is coming along well. The Main Building and Tower assembly is now complete. From last post I have completed the roof to include the ridge cap, which is just paper cut and colored with paint and chalk to match the roof and glued in place being careful NOT to press it down between the raised ridges of the roof panels. The fascia and rafters and rafters tails have been detailed an installed. The additional sign that mounts on the roof was detailed as before and glued in place. The three main roof vents were detailed and glued to the roof and the “tar” seals were applied and detailed. The large “L” shaped vent casting was detailed and installed on the side of the addition complete with the support rods. I am now poised to begin the Welding Shop…really starting to look like something!
brownbr
June 2016
Wowza that looks nice. The accumulation of dirt and grime are convincing but not overpowering. The streaks
also just right without being too pronounced. I like how you streaked the grime from the roof vents. Usually,
this would be a rust streak, but with the rusted roof, you chose the right color. Here’s an interesting thought,
how about a line of rust accumulation (subtle) on the tarpaper where water would have run off of the ribbed roof above?
You need to use a shorter static grass. The scenery looks out of scale.
Michael_Pearce
June 2016
Looks great Ken. I think photographing outside is a great way to show your modelling skills. I must try it be being careful of the tropical sun intensity even in winter. I am very much a point zoom and shoot photo person. An enormous and stunning progress step since last time. Hopefully a few tips to progress to this stage? I have the roofs ready, the “pewter” paper fitted and the rather wood stained but waited to see what i could learn for you before taking the next step. I also weight down the unglued roof with one inch angle blocks so it takes close to the required shape prior to gluing. I am now studying each picture carefully, not sure if I can blow them up for a closer look for clues and ideas?
Michael_Pearce
June 2016
Hi Brownbr The scenery in-scale for my tropical jungle of a garden!
mayhaw9999
June 2016
Yeah Bryan, Ken’s static grass is like his graining on page 8.
Ken, really coming together beautifully. You really are a master of dirt and grime. Always just the right amount
David U
KKarns
June 2016
Thanks Bryan…what you don’t like my tropical diorama? My O’Neills is going to be based in Fiji…Great that you noticed and commented on the color of the weathering below the stacks. Interesting thought on the drip weathering…hmm
Appreciate that Michael. Sounds like you are ready to make some nice progress yourself.
David, nice to know I’m known for dirt and grime…a compliment in the modeling world I hope. Thanks again…and my concrete pour for O’Neills was a bit coarse I think…
SteveF
June 2016
Great work and progress Ken. I continue to be in awe on the level of weathering you use without ever looking muddy. I like the subtle differences from board to board on the siding. I especially like the broken glass in the windows and doors. It matches the level of weathering throughout the structure. The seam on the tower’s tarpaper awning looks to be highlighted. Is that the lighting or need you use a light pastel to add the detail?
Having just finished the tar paper roof on my warehouse, I realize how many variations there is when weathering with the pastels. I’m really enjoying watching all of your techniques as your build is coming together.
SteveF
KCSTrains
June 2016
Ken, you really did a great job tying everything together. The building looks great and nothing out of place or noticeable. I’m ready for the welding shack. Phil
KKarns
June 2016
Hey Steve, appreciate the thoughts and for you following along here nice to know…and really appreciate the feed-back…keeps us going back to “the bench” to get some work done doesn’t it!
Re: the Tower awning seam…do you mean where it joins the siding or the seam where the paper overlaps on the
roof?
KKarns
June 2016
Hi Phil, glad to see your hanging out with me here! How’s the house coming along?
Am working on the strip wood siding of the Welding Shop and it’s coming out really nice…I think…of course I love this part of the build anyway so doesn’t take much to get me going here. As I mentioned, Brett changes up the siding on the Welding Shop just enough to give it its own character but still blending seamlessly with the Tower and Main Building complex.
Oh…got to hurry and get some siding done…NO…just seeing if you’re awake! I NEVER hurry any of a SWSM build, it must be savored and thought about, the manual read through many times and not just for the pictures! as my wife would claim, look and study your progress from many angles and vantage points, take pictures and more pictures and post on SWSM Forum despite the appearance of monotony, the kit contents must be handle and touched many times before any work commences, the SWSM web-site must be viewed
constantly for guidance, reference, motivation, and resources…I’m done for now, I think…had to vent a bit…Ken
SteveF
June 2016
Hi Ken, you’re right there is no hurrying a SWSM build. There is so much creativity in the entire build process. I agree that taking and posting pictures of the build has been very enlightening. Viewing a full size picture of my build on the Apple Thunderbolt Display can be a real humbling but learning situation. On the tarpaper roof, I was referring to the overlap of one row of paper on the other. In general, I would be interested to know what pastel colors you used. As I mentioned before, this was my first use of Rembrandt pastels to weather tar paper. The breath of the colors available can be overwhelming. Any tips on colors and highlights would be appreciated.
SteveF
KKarns
June 2016
Steve, the tar paper is that supplied by Brett in the kit (page 2 construction manual) and lightly spray painted with flat black and then cut into strips, which Brett provides templates for cutting the tar paper for the various roof and awnings utilized with O’Neills (page 31). I like to tear the paper along a straight edge to give a hint of a rough edge rather than a straight smooth edge. The light edge you see is just the whiter paper showing through
which I think gives a prototypical look as the edges of tar paper tend to get worn and light colored over time. I then just weathered the paper with various chalk colors in the brown, rust and grey (408.3, 408.7, 411.3, 704.5 as examples).
nextceo
June 2016 edited June 2016
Looks good Ken. I’ve probably already said this before (so sorry if I’m repeating myself) but I’ll drag the edge of the tar paper across a razor blade to get a similar worn look. The only reason I do this over your method Ken is because when I tear it along a straight edge, it inevitably always seems to rip the paper in an uneven line on me.
Thanks for the pictures…
KKarns
June 2016
Right…I think it depends on how you want the finished edge to look…uneven isn’t bad if its minimal and you want a well worn look. Straight and just worn on the edge has its place as well and your method would be in line with O’Neills as it’s meant to be a facility in reasonably good repair but well used.
KKarns
June 2016
So, on to the Welding Shop. I have stained the laser cut walls and colored and detailed the trim for the freight door, windows and rear door with the antique white paint peel. I took a good bit of time detailing each piece to give a worn but not rotten look. Each piece is cut, detailed and fitted before glueing in place.
Distinguished gathering of Welding Shop walls…colored and trimmed…
Window trim detail…do I dare get this close! Some “fuzzies” to remove but not so bad for such a close shot.
This is the front and most visible view of the Welding Shop. Must be on my toes for the detailing here as it really shows…korny rhyme right there!
Detailing the freight door trim along the bottom…ditto for the other side.
Rear door…
Rear door trim detail…
More of same…siding application is next up…Ken
Karl.A
June 2016
Looking fantastic Ken, such an incredible (and realistic) amount of detail in just those trim pieces alone. Cant wait to see your work on the siding.
Karl.A
Slimjerkins
June 2016
Yep…What Karl said.
And then some.
Bill S.
ironmountainlumber
June 2016
Very cool. Yes I am still alive just not much time to do fun stuff. I was studying the pictures from page 14. Lots of details to look at and comment on. I really like the roof rusty and old and the like the soot stains on the roof around the vents. I like the light dirt at the edges of the windows coming down the siding. Nothing out of place just excellent execution of a beautiful kit. You are moving along very quickly. It is really cool seeing Alan and Mike’s versions as well. Everyone is doing a great job on this kit. I think you are making the big guy (Brett) really happy with the execution of this kit.
Keep up the great work.
Jim
KCSTrains
June 2016
Ken, the house is almost complete and I close on June 29th. I wish the 1:1 construction would have gone as smoothly as your 1:87 construction. They really aren’t craftsmen and don’t take the time to do it right the first time. Oh well!! Phil
Wes
June 2016
Ken you continue to astound with your great work my friend. So hard to believe its HO scale.
KKarn
June 2016
Thanks Karl, I love the “chunky” trim wood Brett calls for here. Once the siding is on it will really look bold and loads of character.
Hey Bill what’s up…appreciate that and thanks for the note.
Nice to hear from you Jim as always. I was a bit worried about you! You notice much and that’s appreciated and nice to know those little details are being seen…thanks for your thoughts and don’t be a stranger.
Phil, always stressful on a new build. Keep on them…
Hey Thanks Wes, it surprises me a bit when I see a picture, like the window shot above, with a human appendage/digit for scale…hits home how small this stuff is.
Alan_H
June 2016
Looks awesome Ken! if I were to guess I’d say you brushed a little light pastel up into the tarpaper seams. Subtle and effective.
KKarns
June 2016
Thanks much Alan. Right you are. I like to highlight edges like that to give some depth and shadows. I did this on the roof of O’Neills Main Building as well. I love the look of shadows and dirt/grime along edges where siding meets the trim, where roof panels overlap and particularly like the weathered edges of where boards butt together both from moisture, nail holes, splits in the wood from nails etc..really makes a dull monotone wall come to life. Steve demonstrated that concept very well on his O Scale Railroad Camp…Ken
KKarns
June 2016
Father’s Day finds me documenting the progress on O’Neills Welding Shop addition. Featured here is the front wall (freight door). When I’m building and detailing walls of a structure, I like to complete one wall with all the details to make sure I’m on track for how I want things to turn out. So far things are going as planned. Board weathering, spacing, and detailing is to where I want them to be. I have included some very close shots to highlight how I weather and add knot holes, etc…
Here is an example of a tooth pick knot hole and where two boards are butted together. Subtile nail holes, and note the knot hole is elliptical around the actual 'knot" and the knot itself is detailed with splits, etc. Bottom board ends weathered a bit more than the rest as would be expected.
Here’s an example of a few “knot holes” without any actual knots in them with some with knots for comparison.
More of a traditional knot without the elliptical cut down area around it.
One final shot of the right side completing this session of Knotology!
…Ken
admin
June 2016
uhmmm, this is HO Scale? Wow Ken, fantastic… the texture is awesome and such a perfect contrast to the main building and tower.
SteveF
June 2016
Phenomenal! You just set the bar to new heights!!! This is fine scale modeling at it’s best!
The wear on the board ends is the best I’ve seen. The “without knots” in the Knotology course is great. I’ll definitely need to try those. These pictures will be my reference for future weathering. Thanks again for sharing this build with us.
SteveF
SteveCuster
June 2016
Looks fantastic Ken.
-Steve
brownbr
June 2016
I really like the way you taper the end of the boards. It adds a new level of interest where they butt up against each other.
KKarns
June 2016 edited June 2016
Appreciate that Brett and perfect the way you crafted each building in the O’Neills “complex” to have it’s own character by way of different styles of siding, doors, weathering, etc., yet compliment each other so well. This paint peel technique you illustrate is so good and so easy to control and apply, yet I can’t tell the difference from the more complicated resist layer and tape peel method.
SteveF, thanks much and I really enjoy this kind of detailing. So many variations on a theme but not too many of any one, one board at a time!
Thank you SteveC. and great to hear from you.
Bryan, you bring up a very interesting point and nice that it’s noticed and appreciated. This particular detail appears a bit overdone in the real close up shots but when viewing the finished wall from a reasonable vantage point, serves to highlight the board end butting and gives a worn weathered look. This may not be always be prototypical, of course not everything prototypical looks good in 1:87, but I think gives a nice look to the wall and creates shadows and opportunities for interesting wear to the board ends.
The same techniques are being applied to the other three walls and will catch up here when completed…Ken
KCSTrains
June 2016
Ken, the trim on the front with the oblong knot and the wood rotting at the bottom is so real that it’s “unreal!!” Now, that’s some kind of detail. You really follow the adage, “aim small, miss small.” If you pay attention to each detail (but don’t get too obsessed) and not get in a hurry, the result of all these little actions leads to an amazing overall result. Great job. Phil
KKarns
June 2016 edited June 2016
Well stated Phil. It’s the cumulation of all the small details that gives the overall impact. Even areas that are not readily seen your mind convinces you that the details are there and I think improves the overall perception of the diorama. Thank you Phil and for your discerning eye!..Ken
KCSTrains
June 2016
Ken, I’m chomping at the bit to start a new kit. I close on my house next Wednesday and have someone installing cabinets in my train room the next day. I have designed a workspace that puts my main workbench right by a window for maximum light. After that I can start moving in my train stuff. My other furniture will not arrive until July 17th. I’m thinking of building the mine next (and follow Bill’s excellent build) and let you
guys finish up on O’Neills. Phil
KKarns
June 2016
I envy you having a brand new room to set-up just the way you want. You will have no excuses for not turning out more of your great work…
Good choice, the Deer Creek Mine is an excellent kit ( I have two…I know!) and with Brett’s manual, Bill’s tutelage on the build and your skill you have an unbeatable combination. Ken
KKarns
June 2016
I have completed the main boarding and detailing of the Welding Shop walls. A very careful and deliberate process as it sets the tone for the shop which is meant to be a bit more worn and used compared to the Main Building. Each board is selected fitted and detailed before even glueing in place. More detailing to go; windows and doors, sign and goose neck light above the front entrance with a couple of castings on the front wall and much more…
Rear wall with access doorway.
Front of O’Neills Welding Shop. A nifty sign and gooseneck light will go here.
Side wall facing the Main Building loading dock. Plain wall now, but wait to you see all the details Brett has in store here…
Side wall facing the drive through area. Can’t wait to get the windows installed here and a few details.
Last detail shot of the upper right corner of the side wall of the Welding Shop. Several knot holes, worn areas,
etc…
SteveF
June 2016
Ken, The individual board detail continues to amaze. What I’ve found most fascinating with Brett’s designs and instructions is the ability he gives the modeler to layer the weathering effects. Weathering occurs over many years and the best models, as seen with yours, shows this effect. Each layer builds on the previous effect, representing the varying effects of time and the whole truly becomes greater than the sum of the parts. A couple of quick questions:
On the last picture above, boards 2, 7, and 9 have an interesting effect. It doesn’t appear to be a knothole but perhaps some gouging of the board, is that correct? How is the heavy graining at the bottom of the boards achieved? Knife cuts along with wire brushing? I’m assuming you are utilizing a wire brush on your board ends. I love the idea that each individual board becomes a model in and of itself. Keep it coming Ken, Wow!
SteveF
KKarns
June 2016
Hey Steve thanks for following along…and appreciate your thoughts. Regarding your question on the board treatment, a few true knot holes here and there go a long way. I don’t like to overdo these myself but I do like to give boards individual details that are subtile. the boards you mentioned are treated this way. A #11 blade is used to remove target areas of wood in varying amounts to simulate cracks, knot holes without the knots,
damaged areas, insect damage, you get the idea. Then these areas are treated with combinations of chalks and AI depending on what I want to achieve. The board ends are done in a similar fashion with picking and cutting away a bit of wood here and there then follow with light going over with the wire brush. I will then sometimes lightly sand the area to take away that fresh “I just wire brushed this” look. As I mentioned, you have a great
critical eye and have enjoyed your comments and questions and for me this is one of the best and most enjoyable parts of a build so appreciate your camaraderie here…Ken
Michael_Pearce
June 2016
Ken I love it “insect damage” now we need a few HO scale insect what a great idea!
Just kidding, fantastic work as always but importantly very inspirational to us lesser gifted mortals just trying to emulate the greatest. Michael progressing slower than usual.
MuddyCreekRR
June 2016
They look more like real weathered boards…than real weathered boards do…I am duly amazed…
admin
June 2016
They look more like real weathered boards…than real weathered boards do…I am duly amazed…
very well stated!
Wes
June 2016
Ken you are knocking this out of the park my friend. Im having fun watching this come together.
KKarns
June 2016
Hey “Muddy” cracked me up…that’s about as nice a thing as a board-on-board modeler can hope to hear! and thanks Brett for concurring.
What’s up Wes?..thanks for the thoughts and support here.
I have finished an installed the fire extinguisher casting, sign, and gooseneck light for the front freight door side of the Welding Shop. Working on the windows for the drive through side and a few other details…will post soon…Ken
Jerry
June 2016
Ken beautiful weathering and coloring on the boards. Very realistic.
Jerry
KKarns
June 2016
Hi Jerry, thanks for checking things out and your critique on the boards. Enjoy spending a fair amount of time here. Making great progress on the other details and should have the Welding Shop going together soon. Detailing windows right now…great stuff!..Ken
ironmountainlumber
June 2016
Well, well, well. Just when I think your modeling can’t get any better you go and make your board on board walls look even more real. You are setting the barr very high indeed.
The knots are very realistic Coloration is spot on. I can’t remember but are you using a microscope to do this level of detail? As I say You Rock!
Jim
KKarns
July 2016
Hi Jim, very kind words here my friend. Most of the close stuff is aiding by magnification using those head sets. You look like a goof ball with them on, but hey who cares if it gets the little stuff done right!
KKarns
July 2016
Detailing of the Welding Shop walls is progressing at my usual slow pace! The front wall is almost done with the sign, overhead gooseneck light and a fire extinguisher completed. Working on the side wall detail and should wrap that up today.
Fire Extinguisher casting Brett provides is the nicest casting of this type I have ever seen in 1:87. Wonderful piece to detail.
Fun shot to get a size perspective on this 1:87 scale wall.
I decided to detail the light support by painting and weathering it with white paint like the wood siding. The bezel is a piece of styrene rod cut, sanded, with small blobs of epoxy strategically placed for mounting bolts. Shade was primed and painted green then the paint chipped with a damp sharp toothpick and weathered.
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
A bit over the top but notice the worn area to the right of the existing bezel where a previous mounting fixture was on the wall leaving a circular wear area and rust…whatever!..right. Ken
ironmountainlumber
July 2016
The sign is exceptional. Anything different that you did?
Jim
KKarns
July 2016
Well thanks Jim…sanded this one even thinner than the other two and I wanted a slightly different weathered tone so I hit it with some AI before final weathering and it gave it a bit more of a dirty grey look.
KKarns
July 2016
Detailing the Welding Shop walls continues. I really like how Brett outlines a certain amount of detailing be done on the walls before putting them together. This allows precise control over the positioning of the details. I like to perform final details after the walls are assembled to get a “feel” for how things will interact with other sub-assemblies such as the dock, how the front wall and side wall “talk” to each other etc…
This is the east wall that is located under the Drive Under Canopy. Windows have been detailed and positioned. Brett outlines a shelf with oil bottle castings here. These castings again are the best I have seen. A few filler items also positioned to achieve a cluttered put purposeful shelf unit.
Close up shot of shelf unit. Note the extra step to drill out the top of the bottle laying flat to give illusion of a hollow casting. may add a little oil dribble around the oil bottle lids…
nextceo
July 2016
Looks awesome. I’m on the middle of painting the details on my build and I’m struggling with those oil bottles. As you know, they were actually made of clear glass. How did you decide on how / what color to paint them?
Alan
KKarns
July 2016
Brett suggests ivory or green in the manual so dirtied up ivory is what I went with. Clear is certainly difficult to model but color like this seems plausible in 1:87. If you’re doing O Scale I would think a valid attempt at clear would be in order. Appreciate your thoughts.
Ken
MuddyCreekRR
July 2016
And what more amazes me is that is HO scale…You are inspiring me to enhance my work on my O scale boards…going to school on your work…
KKarns
July 2016
Thanks much “Muddy”, and glad to hear you’re getting after your board detail! As I have mentioned, this is one of my favorite aspects of a build. It’s fun to get to the castings and putting things together for the diorama but the board detail sets the tone for the entire project. Welding Shop walls are going together today and working on the dock platform for the same…Ken
KKarns
July 2016
Welding Shop walls go together…keeping things square and firmly together is obviously not an exact science!!
admin
July 2016
hah! love the weight pic - we all seem to have our own methods and objects! It’s like some crazy version of the old mouse trap board game…
Wes
July 2016
Very nice Ken. That final pic is always a treat to see how everyone glues their walls up.
KKarns
July 2016
When I stepped back and looked at what a goofy looking pile of metal I had created I thought…gota get a picture of that!
Welding Shop dock platform almost finished will then glue down the Welding Shop to the dock and next up will be shingling the Tower and Welding Shop…Ken
KKarns
July 2016
Well Michael, you mentioned you loved my idea of Insect damage awhile back so here is a go at just that…board end that would rest on the ground with “insect damage”…Ken
admin
July 2016
Call the exterminator…
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
Ken Amazing did you breed HO insects? Let the cat out of the bag. Some information on the process appreciated. Michael
SteveCuster
July 2016
Those boards look great
brownbr
July 2016
Even put cracks in the knot. I love it.
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
One more thing you’re going to have to guarantee your strip wood of…no bugs!
Thanks Steve…
Bryan, nice you noticed that…
Michael, stained and grained the stripwood in the usual manner. after the application of the “paint peel”, not evident in this shot, additional detailing of the board end with heavy grain and knot hole. Then insect damage made with a fine pointed awl followed by a small amount of AI to slightly darken the board end and highlight
the holes…Ken
KKarns
July 2016
Following the completion of another brief modeling project, I have an update on O’Neills. The Welding Shop dock is finished and 3 of the 4 walls are detailed. The remaining wall will be updated this week with many details to come.
In my tradition…well used grimy, dirty, oily, loading dock.
“mood” shot of O’Neills Welding Shop…
…THE END
KKarns
July 2016
Couple more shots trying to get a bit more detailed look…
KKarns
July 2016
Trying some additional close up shots…bit of experimental…
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
Ken The details are unbelievable and the close ups work really well. I wonder how mine you look “THAT” close up. I was unsure if there was uncollected post in the post box? I think that would be a step too far. I now have to go back and re-look at the lack of detailing on my welding shop.
Michael
KKarns
July 2016
Hey Michael…appreciate that and it always is an eye opener when you take some really close shots but does serve to improve your modeling as well. I’ll see things on a close shot and say “oh…got to fix that”. Yea, that’s a cool mail box casting Brett came up with for sure. Of course, as you know, the one side I did not show has all the hoses and cables and such hanging on the wall…working on that stuff now…Ken
admin
July 2016
Man the shop just looks grimy and gritty, perfect! love the decking outside the front wall. Those boards look really well worn.
KKarns
July 2016
Thanks Brett, you know me…the more “crusty” the better. I wanted a good contrast between the dock and the shop siding. Once everything is together on the diorama I’ll come back and add dirt, leaves, trash, etc…here and there where it would accumulate along the outside wall in front.
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
Ken. I was trying “read” what you have done with the fire extinguisher? Michael
KKarns
July 2016
Michael, Painted the main body red, hose black, and the turn wheel grey, added a small label and a mounting base and weathered with chalk. The following picture illustrates this reasonably well.
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
Ken Did you cut the hose away from the body of the fire extinguisher please? I see a significant gap in your photo. I started cutting the hose away but stopped half way as breakage seemed likely and its a long way to post a replacement. Michael
SteveCuster
July 2016
Looks great Ken. The detailing is perfect.
-Steve
Wes
July 2016
Hi Ken
Wonderful wonderful modelling my friend. Love it.
KKarns
July 2016
Right Michael, take care not to cut through the hose casting. If that occurs, no worries just carefully glue it back on.
Howdy Steve C., getting my feet wet here posting images on the new format. Future images should improve. Thanks for your thoughts here.
Nice hearing from you Wes and appreciate the encouragement and I’m certainly having a ball working up O’Neills, such a joy to work Brett’s kits as we all know…Ken
KKarns
July 2016
Welding shop has been glued to the Dock and the final wall details are completed. I am now working up the Addition floor support, porch and stairs…
Hand held shot and trying to hold it still but the chains are bouncing back and forth just a bit…
Cool “mood” shot…back at it…Ken
SteveCuster
July 2016
Looks great Ken. I really like the rope and the cylinder head gasket details.
-Steve
brownbr
July 2016
Nice. A long handled tool hanging on the wall might give some visual interest as a contrast to the other items that have similar shapes.
KKarns
July 2016
Thanks Steve, those items added to give a bit of variety to the various chains, hoses, clevis castings, etc…
Thanks Bryan…
KKarns
July 2016
Finished up the Addition floor support and porch. Next up, Upper Deck and Lower Landing …Ken
MikeM
July 2016
How far off the ground are all those materials hanging? I’ve often been puzzled about how to explain how the LP are supposed to be able to reach some of these things when putting them up/taking them down… Perhaps an occasional folded step ladder leaning against a wall or a short piece of straight ladder on the ground nearby? Also give some consideration to the weight of some of the items these guys are supposed to be able to hoist by
hand…?
admin
July 2016
If you go look at completed pics of the diorama you will see a ladder leaning against the welding shop wall…
just for that purpose.
KKarns
July 2016
Upper Deck and Lower Landing…
nextceo
July 2016 edited July 2016
Hey Ken, The build looks really good. For some reason, I wasn’t getting the updates on your build. It said I had 22 new messages associated with your build thread when I logged in tonite. Anyways, I’m all caught up now…
Alan
admin
July 2016
Awesome. Love the lines on that side of the building…
KKarns
July 2016
Thanks Alan, thanks for checking it out.
Appreciate that Brett. Such a great design to tie the Tower, Main Building and Welding Shop together. Suspended platforms and walkways always look so cool, add the O’Neills Oil Tank in there and what a combination…Ken
SteveCuster
July 2016
Very nice Ken. Have you started on any of the shingles yet?
-Steve
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
Ken I am really worried. If the guys who built the original, see yours, they would probably want to go back and make a better job of the original! If I did not know you better I would think your structure is closer to 12 inches to the foot, rather HO scale.
Your exceptionally high standards certainly encourage me to attempt to emulate you. Note Attempt! Michael
Wes
July 2016
Ken I wish you would stop showing off. Its getting a bit much. HAHA
Wonderful stuff.
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
Hi Steve, thanks and nope, I haven’t done any shingles yet as I need to make a supply run to Hobby Lobby and pick up some craft paint in the brown palate of colors. Will have the shingling done by this weekend and will post an update.
Well there you are Michael, missed your “conversation” of late. Very nice comments and appreciate your analogy. I do enjoy trying to model in a larger scale than I am and certainly tickled when folks, like you all here, notice the work.
Hey Wes, good to hear from you my man! I have to try and squeeze some response out of you guys cause I’m certainly not impressing my wife (a little) or the dog (nothin)! Kidding aside I am very humbled by your thoughts…thanks.
I can’t believe the quality of modeling from everyone here and I mean everyone. Look around and you won’t find a better group of modelers than is right here.
Wes
July 2016
HAHA. Too true. Nice to come to a place like this where everyone is just as interested as you. Look forward to the next update bud.
KCSTrains
July 2016
Ken, I haven’t forgotten you and am trying to catch up. We’ve moved in our new house, but my honey do list is a mile long. I think I forgot how to model. Oh well, one of these days …
KKarns
July 2016
Well put Wes…love this stuff don’t we…
I know you’re out there Phil and busy…get settled and get modeling!
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
I have shingled the Tower Roof first, to be then followed by the Welding Shop roof. The assembly of the Tower Roof went off without a hitch. The peel and stick shingle rows work wonderfully keeping each row perfectly aligned as you move up the roof. I went with a darker color palate for my O’Neills roof to somewhat match the flavor of things…The roof will be installed on the Tower and a really nice final and stack will be detailed an added as well.
Michael_Pearce
July 2016
I like the colours Michael
KKarns
July 2016
Thanks Michael, one of those…not sure how it will look until it’s done kind of things. I may do some more weather streaking after its in place.
KKarns
July 2016
Catch up post here. Didn’t want anyone not working up O’Neills to assume the Upper Deck and Landing were done from my previous update. I had not gotten the support structures installed yet…here is a couple quick shots of the those structures installed…
As the morning fog begins to lift…no it’s my camera going from air conditioning to 80% humidity outside!
What the heck…couldn’t resist a quick mock up shot of O’Neills main buildings, staged of course…gettin there..
admin
July 2016
oh yeah… looking mighty fine!!!
SteveCuster
July 2016
Looks great Ken. The outdoor shots are fantastic. Shingles look great.
-Steve
nextceo
July 2016
Wow…awesome dude!
Coors2u
July 2016
Man, that is a fantastic shot. You are killing it Ken. Some of the best work I have ever seen.
KKarns
July 2016
Brett, thanks and at this stage I’m getting a real “feel” for how things are going to come together. I’m close to getting to that darn Oil Tank that I have been so anxious to get my hands on since the beginning!
Appreciate that Steve and I try and get images outside when possible.
Thanks Alan, it’s getting there.
Spoke to Mike E. and we both agree, this is such a great kit and so much fun to work up. I particularly like how there are three distinct building components; Tower, Main Building, and Welding Shop. You get to work each one up rather separately but THEN…you start to assemble the components that tie all three together and that’s when you get that eureka moment of “wow, this is going to be an awesome diorama”.
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
Dustin, there you are buddy…missed your conversation of late and really nice hearing from you. To weird, I was just posting the above response and yours came in 1 minute earlier…8:06 vs 8:07…what the heck are we doing up so early on a Saturday morning!
Well that’s a really nice thing to say, and appreciate it. Working hard to do this special kit of Brett’s justice. A kit that is dubbed a tribute to someone such as Kevin, who I unfortunately did not have the pleasure of meeting, commands the utmost respect and I think of that often while I’m working. Brett did a marvelous job choosing this kit to dedicate to his good friend…Kevin O’Neill.
ironmountainlumber
July 2016
Ken, that last shot is awesome. I wish I had the opportunity to met Kevin too. I think your build would make Kevin very proud!!!
Jim
KKarns
July 2016
Well hey Jim, nice hearing from you. Appreciate your thoughts on the last picture…kind of a mood shot of sorts. We can only hope folks talk about us so favorably…ken
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
The Tower Roof is complete with the final (or is it finial) and exhaust stack. I was going for a old weathered copper look on the final (Yup, it’s finial) Blackened to casting after installing my steel pin in the bottom (see detailing castings). I then dusted the casting with pale green chalk then a light dusting with black to dirty it up a bit then blew it excess off. Roof is not glued to the Tower yet.
Here is the roof card for the Welding Shop. You will notice that I’m leaning towards the darker color palate for my build here particularly on the Tower and Shop roofs.
KKarns
July 2016
Here’s another shot…trying to get the slight green coppery tarnish color to show up better…maybe this one…
Coors2u
July 2016
I am always and early riser. I am building as of late though, just not what I what I would like to be. My club asked for something to be built. I’ll email a pic when its done if you want. LOTS!! of nasty PLASTIC!!
Tower roof looks great as well. Love the tarnish. Spot on.
admin
July 2016
Really love the finial. excellent finish and attention to detail…
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Brett, this wonderful kit exudes so much character and charm it literally sucks the best work out of any modeler. All the builds of this kit I have seen are just splendid.
Ahh, Dustin…you’re caving into the peer pressure!..would love to see it. I get up early every day as well, hate sleeping in. Thanks for your thoughts on the tarnish effect on the finial. Had to mess with it a bit but I’m happy with the effect of tarnished brass…Ken
KKarns
August 2016
Working up the Main Building Drive Under Canopy Roof. As per the Loading Dock Overhang, Tar papered the wood framed roof. Added detailed corrugated, additional pieces of tar paper and mixed grimy black with some white Elmers to create the seam sealer and then dull downed the sheen with chalks. Created the streaking by loading up a small detail brush with chalk and tapping over the paper then using the detail brush draw the small blob down the roof. Once roof is installed may add some more minor detailing. Note the accumulation of dirt and debris on the inside edge of the angled pieces of wood.
Michael_Pearce
August 2016
Great Ken and you keep giving me more ideas from your perfection modelling. Thanks Michael
nextceo
August 2016 edited August 2016
Hey Kenny, what process did you use to weather the panels, they look great? Also, to get the frayed look on the tar paper did you scrape the edges with a razor blade?
Alan
MitchN
August 2016
Ken,
You are the master of dull and dry finishes. That roof is beautifully weathered. I have been following your build as I do mine. Any additional tips you can pass along for this look?
Mitch
Wes
August 2016
Hi Ken
Love the finial. Pretty much aced the old copper look in my opinion. That roof looks ridiculously good too.
admin
August 2016 edited August 201
MitchN said:
Ken,
You are the master of dull and dry finishes.
Yeah, I think that about sums it up perfectly…
KKarns
August 2016
Michael, no problem…I don’t want to just post everything I’m doing step-by-step unless I get a particular question, as illustrated here, as I am following the manual with only minimal personal touches such as color tones, amount of weathering, etc…I also don’t want to give away all the methods used in the manual as that will ruin the fun for those contemplating, getting ready to, and currently working up O’Neills Fabrication. Alan, the panels are weathered by priming with a base color. I wanted a bit darker panel in the end so I primed
with brown rather than grey. Then a good weathering with the various chalks. I measured the tar paper then used a nice thin metal straight edge to “tear” the paper rather than cut leaving a slight jagged edge. If there was too much ragged edge I carefully trimmed the excess with a pair of scissors. Of course this leaves a white edge so I used a small detail brush and ran a light coat of AI over the edge letting it soak in more or less depending
on the look I want. Well thanks Mitch…but I’m a little disappointed you didn’t add grungy and oily! I weathered this roof a bit more with the chalks than others as I have been going with a bit more dark colors for my roofs on O’Neills and when I staged this roof it seemed a bit light compared to the Tower and Main Building and I know my Drive Through canopy with be the darker corrugated panels as well. So…I went back to the
bench and used some additional browns and grey chalk to darken it up. All the chalk was applied from the top down and in a sweeping motion down creating the slight streaking effect. This was done after all the paper and corrugated was put in place. I then didn’t particularly care for the stark edges of the corrugated I was getting so I used the colored Elmers to simulate joint caulking. This quiteted down the bold edges I was seeing. There are
still a few but most are on the very bottom side of the pieces where you wouldn’t need any caulk. The AI used previously gave some subtile color changes along the edges. I didn’t want to add any more details until the roof is in place as I like to access the scene and see what will fit in and look right with the entire diorama.
Sorry for such a lengthy response Mitch.
Thanks Wes I was very happy with how that turned out. Small detail that probably won’t get noticed but I know it’s there. These wonderful roofs are one of those things I just need to take a deep breath and have at it. I always get something a bit different than I envisioned going into it. Brett, Won’t be happy until oily and grungy are added…I’ll work on that…
KKarns
August 2016
I decided to throw out a quick shot to further illustrate what meant by my color choices on the roofs of O’Neills are towards the darker side. Notice that all the roofs somewhat blend and compliment each other and none of them jump out compared to any other. That was my goal and what I like and doesn’t mean that some highly contrasting roofs wouldn’t look good. Very different textures, which is the genius of Brett’s kits, but similar color tones.
admin
August 2016
The tonal qualities are very similar between the shingles and tarpaper/corrugated roofing materials. Even compared to the ribbed aluminum. Colors vary greatly, but they look like they were exposed to the elements and aged together, at the same rate. Very convincing stuff there oh grunge master…
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks much for your take on it, and eloquently put…yea that’s what I meant what Brett said! All right…I got a nod for grunge…now I need an “oily”, maybe on the O’Neills tank.
Image above was a quick indoor shot just to illustrate the color tone similarity but very different textures…Ken
KKarns
August 2016
Finished up the Drive Through Support components and couldn’t resist taking a few shots of the splendid support structure Brett came up with here. I love the look of the tiered supports and the bracing, gives such a vintage timeless feel to it. I’ll be putting on the corrugated roof covering soon and then on to the Tower Dock and Oil Tank components…ah yes, the Oil Tank!
Notice the contact damage to the front left post beam.
Joel
August 2016
Never too much detail. Keep it coming. I love all the ideas and even more the execution. Great stuff.
KKarns
August 2016
Nice hearing from you Joel…appreciate your thoughts and hope to see you at the next gathering!..Ken
KKarns
August 2016
Couple of quick shots of the Oil Tank with the tank valve casting, oil tank ladder, and front railing in place. The only remaining main detail is the oil delivery pipe which feeds off the small hole pre-drilled in the top of the tank and drops down between the support timbers to the left of the ladder…Ken
Michael_Pearce
August 2016 edited August 2016
Now that really looks “dirty” Ken. I think your model needs the cleaners in before there is an authentic model fire with all that additional welding!!
MitchN
August 2016
Now that’s grungy!
Mitch
brownbr
August 2016
Impressive
KKarns
August 2016
Michael, O’Neills, as you know, comes complete with two fire extinguishers so I’m ready!
Mitch, that’s this nicest thing anyone has ever said to me…sniffly…sniffly…
Thanks much Bryan…
“Dirty”, “Grungy”, …music to my ears…thanks guys!
djdutch
August 2016
just step in here after a long time, but wow what a nice build as always you nailing it.
DJ
KKarns
August 2016
Long time DJ…nice to see you drop in…thanks for your thoughts.
Mike Engler
August 2016
Ken- some really fine modeling. I like where the tank is in regard to weathering. I went a little too far and had to retreat with a little alcohol, but that’s what is so great about working with the chalks- they are forgiving. I like you love the ladder, but as I feared it is not very visible at the right-rear installation. I may try to move it to the front-left corner, but I don’t want to cover-up the “O” in “O’Neills”. It has to go on one of the platform corners so the workers have access to the ladder. You’ll probably figure it out- it will be interesting to see your treatment.
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Mike, appreciate that. I was considering the same issues and I decided that I wanted the wonderful rivet detail on the left side of the tank and the ladder on the right side to both be visible. So I positioned my ladder with direct access from the Tower deck. I positioned my “O” in O’Neills just to the right of the rivets and the ladder is over the “LS” but still very readable (see photos)…
nextceo
August 2016
The colors and weathering on your tank look perfect. All that’s left is to add the lampshaderite unit.
brownbr
August 2016
I’m just thinking out loud here. I wonder how the tank would look in white or silver. It would certainly make it more of a focal point. I’m not sure if that would be a good thing or not.
Mike Engler
August 2016
Very good solution on the ladder- makes perfect sense. You even outthink the rest of us. Now where is the oil delivery pipe going to go? Maybe between the “I” and the first"L"? You probably figured out to make the main oil delivery assembly stay visible as well, even though it’s under the tank platform and the dock. Another of my favorite details!
Now I’ve got to figure out where the oil leaks and spills would be around the tank, platform, and piping system. Brett cautions you to not overdo this. One thing I do know is that used motor oil in this era was black, skanky, gooey stuff. I know because I used to get a couple of quarts per day from the dad of a friend of mine who owned a Standard station. I needed it to keep my first car going- a 1947 Studebaker. No respectable girls would even get in it.
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Mike and yes, I’ll be dropping the oil delivery pipe (sump fill) exactly where you predicted and for the same reason you stated! I have weathered and created the “oil spills” around the tank upper rim and on the bottom and the support timbers. Will add a few along the joints of the sump fill pipe that drops down from the top of the tank.I have posted here a couple of pics of my finished main oil delivery pipe assembly that lives under the Tower
dock and tank platform. So, I figure your 1947 Studebaker must have had very little wear to the back seat upholstery!
Main Oil Delivery Pipe Assembly. The valve handwheel casting will be detailed and attached to the globe valve post as shown.
admin
August 2016
Wonderful execution there Mr. Grunge…
KKarns
August 2016
Gee…I’m getting a few names here; dirty, soiled, grungy…that in some circles would be quite offensive…but here…lovin it! Appreciate that sir.
Close up of valve and “T”, such wonderful materials to detail…
Michael_Pearce
August 2016
Wondering what you used for the bolts holding the strapping in place, hex or round? Just jesting as mine are self adhesive. Brilliant Ken.
Jerryrgs
August 2016
Beautiful work. I just started reading the thread yesterday. I am looking forward to building this kit. I only hope I can do half as well as you. Now that I am caught up you need to work faster. No more wasting time sleeping at night.
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Alan, maybe I’ll use it as a manhole cover.
Bryan, I have seen many large oil tank storage units painted silver/white. Probably would over power this type of scene unless very weathered but certainly would be prototypical in many situations.
Well Michael, haven’t heard from you lately and glad to have you “check in”. Thanks for your thoughts. Right, those are just small glued on bolt heads.
Appreciate that Jerry and welcome to the thread here. Nice to hear you’ll be building O’Neills as it is a wonderful kit full of character and a real joy to model as we have all come to expect from SWSM. Coming along and I’ll be putting the components on the diorama very soon and pulling everything together. Hey…much is accomplished in modeling by monitoring the inside of your eyelids!..Ken
SteveCuster
August 2016
Looks really great Ken. The tank is perfect and that piping looks incredible, it’s such a cool detail.
-Steve
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Steve, and you’re right the piping detail Brett included with that awesome tank is cool, cool stuff!
ironmountainlumber
August 2016
Ken,
FANTASTIC! Enough said.
Jim
KCSTrains
August 2016
Ken, you continue to amaze me with your detail. You must have retired from the Hospital and are working at this full time. Keep up the good work. Phil
KKarns
August 2016
Hey Jim, appreciate that. Some of my favorite things to model…
Thanks Phil, so you haven’t noticed how slow I am, glad to hear that! I’m down to single digits until retirement so still carving out time to work at the bench. It’s really nice how Brett has broken down O’Neills into the various sub-assemblies which suit my modeling style, and would assume that of others, of seeing each component as a model into itself and working the detailing out accordingly. I have now completed most of these components and will soon be bringing it all together into a diorama…slinging dirt is just around the
corner!..Ken
KCSTrains
August 2016
I can’t wait. BTW I have a vacation coming at the beach. I know … September … but it’s quiet and I’m bringing the mine so I can start it. Phil
KKarns
August 2016
So the Deer Creek Mine is your next project? Good choice. As I mentioned, I’m starting to formulate a plan for my next project as well. We’ll see how that goes but right now…full concentration on O’Neills!..Ken
KKarns
August 2016
Initial work up on the wood fence that runs along the access road for the Oil Sump Drive Through is complete. Each board is grained and stained, then detailed with a bit more weathering along the bottom where the boards would be in contact with the ground. A bit more blending with a light application of chalks may be in order but I’ll wait until it’s ready to go on the dio before deciding any final work.
KKarns
August 2016
I see it, I see it…a couple little light spots along the bottom…I’m on it!..Ken
SteveCuster
August 2016
The fence looks great Ken, the bottom has a great rotten look.
Michael_Pearce
August 2016
Look pretty rotten Ken!! Rotten as in decayed rather than awful, inferior, terrible etc. Best in show again.
KKarns
August 2016 edited August 2016
Thanks Steve. Once “planted” and the details and landscaping done along the bottom it will soften the look. It appears kind of dark now but the idea is to have that peeking through all the details. In addition, the photo is inside and on the dark side as well.
Hey Michael, appreciate that. see above. Glad to see you’re still out there, how’s your build coming along?..Ken
sdrees
August 2016
Hi Ken,
It has been a while since I have posted on this site since I am building my layout now. Your have been doing a great job on this model. I have always wondered what tools and techniques you use to get the rotted look on the bottom of you boards.
Thanks,
Steve
KKarns
August 2016
Steve, appreciate that and glad you asked that question regarding the treatment of the board ends. I will soon be doing an advanced wood tutorial here on the forum in which I build on the tried and true techniques Brett so eloquently outlines in each of the kit manuals and at Craftsman Kit University here on the web-site. Your question will be keenly addressed and hopefully some good techniques can be shared…Ken
nextceo
August 2016
Hey Ken, definitely looking forward to your wood tutorial…you are the master at making new wood look old.
sdrees
August 2016
Ken,
I am looking forward to your tutorial!
KKarns
August 2016
Alan, the wood and I have a mutually satisfying relationship…we’re both old!
Look forward to it as well Steve, it will be fun to see what good ideas are batted around.
KKarns
August 2016
Jumped ahead a tiny bit and decided to put together one of the remarkably detailed hand trucks that is supplied with O’Neills. This kind of detail in 1:87 is unheard of! Separate frame, axle, handle and wheels and this is not a casting. SWSM continues to set the standard for which all others are measured…
Staged along side O’Neills Tower and Deck for scale. Pieces were removed from the carrier sheet, painted and detailed with rust chalks. Wheels and axles blackened and weathered with chalks. The next one I do I’m going to try painting red and weathering…
Such a “yummy” detail!
Reality check!..note just how small and finely detailed this is…Ken
admin
August 2016
That’s wonderful. So easy to assemble but so finely detailed and prototypical. Excellent execution…
Coors2u
August 2016
That gets a thumbs up from me. I partial to the one in the back of my van though. Its designed for delivering “Kegs”. Yours is outstanding as well though. I love seeing how things are turning out on this build. Great thread Ken. Keep it up.
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Brett, this guy took me less time to assemble than detailing a typical resin casting and the results…well…I’m simply amazed at how you came up with this manufacturing technique. I’m quite certain most, if not all, of the modelers on this forum realize the significance of this innovative development you have achieved here.
KKarns
August 2016
Justin! Hey nice hearing from you. Like Bryan on the weld bead, you just issued a challenge, does this mean I’m going to have to detail one of Brett’s barrels into a keg to marry up with this hand truck!?
Thanks my man, appreciate your thoughts
KKarns
August 2016
I am now working on the actual diorama base. Quite a milestone in the O’Neills build thus far. I laid out my base just a bit larger than what is called for in the manual. I used 1" foam board epoxied to a 3/4 inch composite board. I then painted the base with a dirt colored latex. I’m modeling HOn3 track so my centerline was recalculated on the template and the base was marked for the centerline followed by tie spacing marks every 0.25". If anyone followed my SWSM Loco and Service Shops build, you know I spend a great deal of time and effort detailing my trackage. My ties were cut from 3/64 x 3/32 strip wood stock with the graining done prior to cutting and will support code 55 rail on un-ballasted road bed. Once the ties were cut the final detailing was done followed by a grey/black stain and then glued to the diorama base. The ties will be further detailed after the glue dries. Next up is the initial layer of dirt.
KKarns
August 2016
Note…no attempt was made to get perfectly aligned ties, and in fact a few are purposely skewed a bit for effect.
brownbr
August 2016
Nice progress. Love that handtruck. Looking forward to the kegger.
If you need more outlandish ideas I have another. How about warping the top board of the railing on the porch and exposing the nails underneath. Funny story…some time ago I had some paint mixed up at whatever store I was at. I commented that the paint was a nice dirt color. The guy looked offended…
KCSTrains
August 2016
“I used 1” foam board epoxied to a 3/4 inch composite board." Hey Ken, why do you do it this way? Is it to get some undulations on the surface? It’s an interesting idea. Phil
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Bryan, hey…I’m slow enough at this as it is, let alone entertaining 1:87 scale nails!..well…hmm..maybe. Don’t know what that guy’s problem was…you said “nice” dirt color. I use the 1" foam board to allow for various topography changes such as ditches, roads, that kind of thing including subtile undulations as you mentioned. Sometimes I’m undecided until the structure is planted and scenic work is under way. In addition, holes can be easily punched in through the dirt layer for trees, bushes, posts, pipes, telephone poles, etc..even after the glue is dry. My Loco Shop build…I put in an inspection pit and
the foam allowed me to do this. I add the 3/4 inch composite for strength, particularly on larger dioramas. The foam board is also impervious to water and moisture so it won’t suck up the water/glue/alcohol being used above. I also like the look of a nice “chunky” substantial base.
SteveCuster
August 2016
The hand truck and ties look great Ken. I just cut my base yesterday, I also used 3/4 MDF. I bought a 4x8 sheet of it to cut down, it’s heavy stuff.
-Steve
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Steve. That stuff is very dense but really resists warping quite nicely. Really excited, as I’m sure you are, to be at this stage of the build!
KKarns
August 2016
I decided to experiment with the other large Hand Truck Brett includes with O’Neills. I primed with basic brown and let that cure then followed with SWSM/Reaper Garnet Red from my craftsman paint set purchased here on the web-site . When dry to the touch, picked and scraped the paint with a sharpened toothpick and a little water. Toned down and dulled the color with an application of dry chalk. Finally went over it with a very small
stiff brush to smooth things out. Stack a couple of crates on this guy and set it on the loading dock…
nextceo
August 2016
Your little cart looks awesome…just missing the Keg…
KCSTrains
August 2016
I like it!! Phil
Wes
August 2016
Hey Ken. Stoked to see the diorama base start to take shape. That cart is just beautiful. Hard to believe its 1/87
KKarns
August 2016
Thanks Wes. Last night I applied the base dirt layer and will be detailing the track first as I want to be able to manipulate the base with out anything else on it. Once the track is done, it’s full out diorama building…fun stuff.
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks much Alan, we’ll see about the keg!
Appreciate that Phil.
