This thread was started in November, 2011
Joel
November 2011 edited November 2011 in O Scale Builds
Well I’ve decided to tackle the LTR. It is one of my all time favourite designs. The building is small but overloaded with character and junk. Just my style. Opening the box is a joy with tons of castings and small packets. I primed the “wooden” castings with earth. Look at all the metal details - 43 hammers! and a bunch of other hand tools to boot. I understand Brett is stopping production on this one but to me the casting set and two tractors are worth the entire price of the kit. Nough said I love this kit, now the question is doing it justice. When I really love a kit I pretty much build it as per the directions and I’m pretty sure this one will be like the photo on the box (if I’m up to the challenge).
Comments
Karl.A
November 2011
After seeing your previous work in person Joel I have no doubt that you will do this next one justice.
Make sure to post lots of updates so we can all follow along and learn a trick or two.
Certainly as you say a great kit and I for one am looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
Karl.A
Wes
November 2011
One of my all time favourites too Joel. I look forward to see what you do with it.
admin
November 2011
Well this kit is very special to me… as many of you know Brian Nolan constructed the walls and roof panels for my pilot model. He mailed them flat to me and I assembled them. What a job he did! I am looking forward to your build Joel - you will do Bri proud for sure!
Joel
December 2011
Ok some boring waiting and soaking. As much as I love the look I got just using chalk for my rigging shed and shipyard if Brian Nolan says to try this I got to try it. After soaking and drying the pieces I gave the siding pieces an initial brush with my big wire brush. I also painted the trusses and wall frames with earth and then a dusting of chalk to try and match the siding colour. This will be the final interior colour. I have some questions about the framing as the grain goes the wrong way in many pieces. I’m sure it will be hardly noticable in the finished model. I tried streaking the chalk in the direction of the “grain” but the effect was too subtle. A new solution was to take a .2mm black pen and draw in some subtle grain. See what you think. I’m not 100% convinced but I think it fools the eye pretty well.
Also while waiting for the wood to soak and dry I experimented with a couple of drums. The left one I used the hairspray method the right I just brushed with a wire brush and dabbed on some rust chalk. I think both are effective but the hairspray one is more time consuming.
admin
December 2011
I think the subtle graining added to the tusses look great but keep in mind - The laser cut wall and roof sections all but disappear once the roof, details and scenery are added! As a manufacturer it is MUCH cheaper and faster to give you the templates (already provided) and a bundle of 4 x 4 stripwood and have you frame the sucker. BUT the laser handles the worst part of board on board for us and it does not affect the quality of the completed diorama. Brian was concerned when I first approached him and mentioned the laser cut wall frames but after seeing the completed diorama in person he quickly agreed they were of no concern. The laser cut wall framing discussion is totally different than the laser cut window discussion where wood grain running the wrong direction is terrible and easily seen on the completed model…
Joel
December 2011
I tend to agree. I experimented with the trusses because, as you say they are hidden, if the effect was terrible then no harm done. Also I have to again agree that they make the assembly sooo much easier and wouldn’t want to return to building board on board framing. I don’t know if this extra 30sec of work will make any impact on the completed model but I won’t know until I get there. Meanwhile it lets me sleep at night.
brownbr
December 2011 edited December 2011
I like your progress so far. I don’t think I would worry about graining the trusses either. I might color them just a tad darker than the inside wall and call it good.
I noticed your brush. I tried one just like that and found it cumbersome. I found 2 sized of steel brushes-very stiff- at Home Depot in the welding section that are much easier to handle. Give it a try if you like.
PS. I very much appreciate the laser cut framing
Kevin
December 2011
Hey Joel
I’m looking forward to this build. I did one long wall of this kit and could post a few pics for you if you don’t mind. I would not bother to try to impart any grain on the interior framing as Brett says most of it will be hidden by details and shelves. Also if you look at a lot of interior pics of old prototype shops like this those the studs/framing did not always have a lot of grain.
Kevin
Joel
December 2011
Kevin,
Always welcome to add any insight, tips or even better pictures.
I agree there should not be obvious grain indoors and also that most will be hidden but some of the pieces have obvious grain and it is going the wrong way. Either I sand them to remove the grain (which in retrospect sounds like a better idea) or I pull your eye away from those errant grain patterns by superimposing a clear/bold grain pattern.
Wow I can’t believe a few scratches with a pen have got you guys commenting.
More pictures soon. The first wall is coming along…
Joel
December 2011
Ok here is a small wall. I did the window frames but haven’t added the battens yet. I used a coat of asphaltum (aging glaze from Loewes or a paint store) which pretty much mimics 403.8 chalk. Paint on and rub off. Then dry brush with tan and suede “Craftsmart” cheap craft paint. Note I didn’t go all the way to the bottom of the wall to give the effect of some rot and mildew. You can really see the effect of the asphaltum there. I may do a building where I just use this stuff as it leaves a nice colouring.
admin
December 2011
looks awesome - graining, darker board bottoms, knots, all are right on…
Karl.A
December 2011
Incredible looking wall Joel.
I think I’m gonna take up knitting instead…
But before I do that I’m going to get some of that there asphaltum stuff to try out.
Karl.A
Kevin
December 2011
Hey Joel
The wall looks fantastic!! I have a few pics of a long wall that I did mostly with the “dry chalk method”. A few boards look too light in color but can easily be made to match the others with a couple of swipes with darker colors. I read Daves article on his 1/35th Tractor/repair shed and tried to match his interior coloring with some Minwax stain. I will go over all of the inside with dark umber chalks to dirty it up some but that is all I will bother to do.
OM (Kevin)
Joel
December 2011
Stunning detail and colouring on the walls Kevin. Hard to believe it’s all dry chalk. Love the natural variation in shading. Amazing.
Only real question is why you would have stopped building? Golf can’t be that great a hobby…
Karl.A
December 2011
From what I understand…
when Kevin was much younger he played alot of football,
after that he played alot of softball,
now it seems that he tends to prefer golf.
It would seem therefor that as he has gotten older his balls have gotten smaller.
Of course, this ‘observation’ in no way detracts from the fantastic modeling he can produce when he finally gets his butt sat down at the modelling desk.
Karl.A
Wes
December 2011
Wow. Both those walls look fantastic Joel and Kevin.
Guess ill have to take up another hobby too. Knitting sounds like a good idea Karl.
minion
December 2011
From what I understand…
when Kevin was much younger he played alot of football,
after that he played alot of softball,
now it seems that he tends to prefer golf.
It would seem therefor that as he has gotten older his balls have gotten smaller.
Of course, this ‘observation’ in no way detracts from the fantastic modeling he can produce when he finally gets his butt sat down at the modelling desk.
Karl.A
Karl ,
He’ll be playing marbles next .
minion
December 2011
Ok here is a small wall. I did the window frames but haven’t added the battens yet. I used a coat of asphaltum (aging glaze from Loewes or a paint store) which pretty much mimics 403.8 chalk. Paint on and rub off. Then dry brush with tan and suede “Craftsmart” cheap craft paint. Note I didn’t go all the way to the bottom of the wall to give the effect of some rot and mildew. You can really see the effect of the asphaltum there. I may do a building where I just use this stuff as it leaves a nice colouring.
Excellent looking wall , Joel . Have you thought about a bit of green at the bottom to age it a bit more , and to give it some more colour . Just a thought ,
Nick
Joel
December 2011
Thanks Nick. Do you have a favourite green? I’m not above trying any new technique.
This is a quick pic of the almost completed wall. I decided to do all the battens as 1X2s.
Not sure why but it looked good to my eye. The one crooked board is held in place by three rusty nails which are protruding. They are .006 brass wire which is probably twice the diameter of a real nail (it is 1/4 inch) but I wanted the effect. Sorry no nail heads.
now on to the windows. I have decided to add hinges but yet to experiment with “how” .
minion
December 2011
Joel ,
Check out a relatively new range of paints and stains made by the Spanish company AK Interactive . They are aimed at the military modelling lot but they definitely have a place in our little world . They are available in The States but I don’t recall off hand where from .
I don’t have a favourite green as such , I usually use what is to hand , but obviously you don’t want anything too garish . I suggest you do some experiments with different shades . You could also try chalks or pigment powders . I guess the watchword would be " experiment" to see what works for you .
I also suggest seeing if you can find any buildings in real life which might give you some ideas . Where I live , in the UK , there are loads of buildings to look at as we have a pretty damp climate and mold likes to grow every where . But it might be different where ever you are .
Hope that is of some help ,
Nick
Kevin
December 2011
Hey Joel
It’s Mr. Chalkman here. I use Rembrandt olive green 620.3. I brush a very small amount aong the bottom of the boards and blend it upwards. Only the slightest hint of green should show and if it’s too much just go over it with some black or whatever color/tone your siding is. You really should try these chalks Joel, you would be a natural with them.
Kevin
Joel
December 2011
OK so far by far the trickiest and most time consuming step - the windows. I essentially followed Brett’s directions except I got glue everywhere the first time so I started lying down the “glass” and then touching the corner with a toothpick dipped in ACC. The glu wicked up and I didn’t mar any other surfaces. I used the same technique with the 1X2’s on top of the glass. Held in place then glued on the edges then the edges were repainted to match. My insanity has started to show with the hinges. This is a strip of paper 2" (scale) wide that I then cut into 2" squares. At first I glued the .006 blacken brass bar to the strip of paper then cut out a bunch of hinges with my rail nippers. Unfortunately the brass bar became loose during cutting or fitting so I just add the bar after the hinge plates are installed.
Here is my first atempt. First wall completed. Yay!!
brownbr
December 2011
Your windows were worth the effort, and the hinges add a nice touch.
Wes
December 2011
Great work Joel. I love the rusty hinges. They look great.
Joel
December 2011
Well done wall #2. so far so good. I tried a bit of green on the bottom and really liked it. May have liked it too much. I might tone it down a bit.
davej
December 2011
I like the green I think it’s very subtle in the photos.
Bill
December 2011
Amazing! Given the work by both of you guys so far, I’d say this is gonna be THE thread to watch. Hinges, aging glaze, mold & mildew!!
Are you guys are still taking requests?
Let’s see some termite damage! (that should stump 'em)
Wes
December 2011
I think its nice and subtle too. What type of green did you use Joel?
admin
December 2011
looking really good there… the green looks right - subtle enough not to overpower but distinct enough to add detail to the wall
Joel
December 2011
Hey Wes - I used the olive green chalk that Kevin suggested (it was available at the art supply store around the corner).
Bill you jest but I did try to model some Bug damage. I took a few of the pieces of strip wood and after brushing them I hit them repeatedly with my stiffest wire brush causing groupings of small holes. You can see it at the bottom of boards 2 and six (from the left) in the bottom photo above. Not sure how effective it is, looks a bit more like random nail holes, but I like the overall effect it adds.
LSNRwyAl
December 2011
ECHO - - in the pics the green looks good.
Joel
December 2011 edited December 2011
Well I’m still here. Finished all the walls but I thought it a bit boring to keep posting the same thing over and over. Now on to some castings. I tried to use Kevin’s techniques As described on the “other” forum. Might as well try and emulate the best. Not up to his standards but a good start.
Next I tried to use Chuck Doan’s hairspray method to chip paint. Watched a utube video on and tried it on an old Western Milling Machine.
When it works it is really great. i then tried a couple of castings from this kit.
It worked best on the oil High Boy I think because I needed three coats of yellow polly S to coat. I guess because the paint was thicker it chipped better. Anyway another tool to try and perfect over the next few years.
OK only a few hundred more castings to paint and then I can work on the tractors…
Bill
December 2011
I’m viewing your pics on my phone so the screen’s a little small, but the chipped paint/rust on the lathe and milling machine look fantastic!
Your work bench sure looks good to me, but let’s see what Kevin has to say. (I’m also a student of “Professor Castings”!)
brownbr
December 2011
great job on those castings
Karl.A
December 2011
Fantastic work on those details Joel, just amazing.
Karl.A
Wes
December 2011
That is some amazing work joel. Im sure kevin will be just as impresed with your work as we all are.
admin
December 2011
Wow Joel… looking great! One question - can you see the “dot pattern” on the Sinclair oil sign with the naked eye? I need to fix my sign sheet if you can… The peeling paint effects are awesome!
Kevin
December 2011
Hey Joel
Everything looks great! Very nice job on the benches and details on them. The effects on the lathe are well done however I think that a little less is more approach would be more effective. Same thing goes for the lubester and pics not so close up would make it easier to assess the work. You’ve got some major skills Doc so I know this build will turn out fantastic.
Kevin
Karl.A
December 2011
I had the same initial thought when I first saw the lathe Kevin, but then I realised/remembered that it is actually the ‘old, junk’ lathe which is rusting away in the corner of the workshop under boxes of spares.
Certainly over rusted for an operational unit, but in this senario I like the heavier rust effects.
Thats my 2p worth..
Karl.A
Joel
December 2011
Thanks for all the feedback. I’m new to this technique so I admit I’m going a little heavy. I do agree with the two pence of Karl as this is an old non-operating lathe. The Oil high boy is outside but even so is a bit heavily weathered. I started chipping paint with a tooth pick and it took off large chuncks of paint. I then moved to a dull #11 blade and that was much better and gave me better control. The dot pattern is visible to the naked eye and the picture I took with the macro lens makes it very obvious. So much so that I ripped the sign off and printed a photo (downsized) of an old rusted sign. I’ve given it some dullcote and will try and fix it this weekend.
Joel
January 2012
Ok reworked the sign on the front of the oil high boy. Much less of the dot pattern and some nice rusting (the original picture was of a rusted old sign). I also worked on a bunch of barrels and the wheel Barrow. Obviously trying to take kevin’s suggestion to heart. Don’t know why but when I see junk I want it all rusted and deteriorating.
just a few more castings to go and I can start the tractors and wooden details (pallets/ladders/sawhorses).
It doesn’t show well but the rusted metal bands on these details came out beautifully.
admin
January 2012
very, very nice… I really like the wheel barrow, anvil, and knee vice!
LSNRwyAl
January 2012
Me too.
brownbr
January 2012
Really like those details. Is the stump for the anvil home-made? It looks like real wood
Wes
January 2012
The anvil with the stump is a great idea. Looks great.
Joel
January 2012
Love to take credit for the stump but it is straight out of the instructions. It is a real stick. I sawed about 3-4 and found the one with the best detail and parallel ends.
Kevin
January 2012
Hey Joel
Really beautiful work on the details! What did you use for the straps and what did you use to nail them to the stump?
KO
Mike Engler
January 2012
Hi Joel- I just caught up on this thread as I’m thinking of venturing over to “the Dark Side” for a build or two. You again are doing some amazing work! Your castings are getting to be up there with the masters. My only question is that some of the rust spots on the barrels appear to look like lightning bolts or long scratches rather than rust splotches that emerge through the paint. I am definitely NOT the authority here- just wondering what you and others think. I love the overall effect.
Joel
January 2012
The strapping is included with the kit and is styrene strip painted rust. It is pinned with some old HO scale rivets from my scrap bin.
As far as the steel drums go I actually was trying to model a large scratch in the paint surface on some of the drums. Sometimes rust comes from underneath the paint but often it is where paint rubs off or is scratched by something sharp. I usually scratch a bit here and there and add the rust then when placing the drum I can decide which orientation will give off the most pleasing effect. I suppose a real artist would know exactly what effect they wanted in each place but I still weather stuff and see what happens then edit them as I place them on the model. It’s way faster as I do them in bulk.
Joel
January 2012
Well it’s happened. I’ve been building Brett’s kits for many years (since the first one in '95) and I think I blew it for the first time. Tried to do the flooring and pushed the fine dirt into the glue and rubbed off the excess and let dry as per the instructions.
Then I tried sanding of the dried dirt a day or two later and I sanded it all down and now exposed some bare wood in multiple areas. The dirt was quite thick and difficult to sand in some areas.
It’s not ruined as I could always do a heavy brushing and restain. just wondering where I went wrong and if there is something I can do to repair it or do I just start over. Am I being too critical?
Any thoughts?
Karl.A
January 2012
Interesting situation Joel, I certainly wouldnt ‘scrap’ it just just yet, this may be a new technique in the making.
Unfortunately I cant get a good look at it on my laptop screen right now so I will reserve judgement/advice/ideas until tomorrow.
Karl.A
admin
January 2012
I think you just got too much dirt there - try wetting the wood to soften the dirt then scrape with a single edge… you want the dirt mainly between the boards. its been so many years since i did this but i think this will improve the floor a bunch.
Joel
January 2012
Ok. Thanks guys. I wet it and used a wire scratch brush and the “mud” came off. I reapplied it using thinned white glue like for scenery and wiped off the excess when it was wet. This left a tiny film behind to sand off. Much better. I probably read the directions wrong.
OK now a small break before O get back to all those castings. been itching to get the CAT 8 done. I down loaded a few pictures of the real engines off the net and tried to copy the wiring and piping so I’ll try and upload some engine close ups.
A bit crazy but it is at the front edge of the diorama.
I still have to detail it with tarps and junk but the CAT is done.
LSNRwyAl
January 2012
Superb Cat.
I purchased two books on Caterpillar for the research to do this on my kit.
You nailed it, well done.
admin
January 2012
wow… really impressed!
Karl.A
January 2012
Outstanding Joel, I may need to copy that.
Great work indeed.
Karl.A
brownbr
January 2012
Wow Joel. You said you downloaded pics of real CATs and I thought your photos your downloads! Who needs to download real CATs now. We all have this as a reference.
LSNRwyAl
January 2012
Here are a pair of pics I took of a Cat I found while out to sales calls.
Weatherd blade.
Dirt covered track
Karl.A
January 2012
Great pics Alan, I’ll be sure to reference them when I get back to mine…
Karl.A
Kevin
January 2012
Fantastic job on the Cat Joel! Also nice save on the floor. You are setting the bar very high my friend. Belated Happy New Year to you and I hope all is well at home.
Kevin
Wes
January 2012
Joel that CAT turned out just fantastic. Couldd you describe how you got that great weathered look?
Joel
January 2012
Thanks guys for all the nice comments. Wes I know this is a cop out but for the weathering all I did was follow Brett’s directions on page 38 of the manual. Just paint and chalk and a bit of oily black polly S. Only difference is I downloaded some pictures from goole and did all my wiring and piping first and then painted it as a whole.
These are the pictures I used: save you all some work looking around google…
Wes
January 2012
Thats no cop out Joel. You just using techniques from the best in the business, and your results show how good those techniques are.
Thanks for those pics too. Theyre great reffference material.
Joel
January 2012
Well still a few dozen castings to finish but I thought I’d work on the interior a bit as I prepare to glue the walls together. Just a couple of shots to test out what the interior may look like. I can see from these I have an unsightly splotch of “Asphaltum” that leaked through above the desk and the desk unit has some sort of stain on one of the doors. Both probably could be there in the real world so I may leave them but Not sure yet…
brownbr
January 2012
Joel, not to take anything from anyone else, but your work is 2nd to none. Thanks for keeping us updated.
LSNRwyAl
January 2012
Love the look of the individual castings / tools.
Especially like the blueprint under the wrench.
Joel
January 2012 edited January 2012
hey Bryan,
Thanks for the compliment but it is a bit silly with the likes of Brett, Karl and Kevin modelling away, nevermind your stunning Woodcutter’s Shack. I’m not even in the same league as Dave Revelia or Chuck Doan. That said for my third attemp at an O scale structure I’m pretty pleased and I am learning tons. Maybe one day I can sit at the adult table but for now I’m content with being a good student.
Karl.A
January 2012
The broken hinge and the hanging window is a nice little detail Joel, something different to catch the eye.
Everything else is coming together very nicely indeed, very impressive.
Karl.A
Joel
February 2012
OK I’m back. I had a bad cold and couldn’t get in the right frame of mind. Did a couple of mindless chores like the pallettes and ladder.
I tried to model the other tractor and used an airbrush for the first time. I’m pleased with the results but much of the “good stuff” is chalk I added afterwards. Also completed the forge. some of the stones stick out because of the chalk I added and i have to tone them down a bit. Finally I went a bit of the rails making labels for the cans and bottles included with the kit. I downloaded so pictures of signs from Laurie Green (a great resource) and printed them on photo paper. Thinned the label as much as I dared and glued them on. They’re still a bit thick but they are a nice detail.
Only about 100 details left to paint and then it can all go together.
brownbr
March 2012
the labels on the cans is a nice touch.
Joel
June 2012
Hi all,
I haven’t abandoned the project. Lots of gardening and the Ottawa train show got in the way. Also I’m at the slowest part of my process. I usually build the structure (s) and then sit them out on the ping pong table and move them around, place some trees and then let it sit. Typically I do this for a few weeks. Last year with the cove it took 2 months to come up with a plan. This year I’m sort of lost and looking for input. I built an arch bridge to go over Deer Creek and am thinking of building the tool shed on the near side of the tracks to add a bit more interest.
Any thoughts?
LSNRwyAl
June 2012
I like 013 small.jpg as it draws the viewer up close then over to the front / doors of the repair shed. I also like the “peek-a-boo” modeling where the trains are in the open then behind a building then again in the open. Love the trees.
Joel
July 2012
Ok still working on detail elements and thought I’d try one of Brett’s CHB mack trucks. I also thought I’d try something new in terms of weathering. I read about using coarse salt as a mask in the On30 annual and thought I’d give it a try. In the end I used the salt as well as the hairspray (to allow for further peeling) and a brand new technique. I rusted up the body pretty severely and this time used really coarse chunks of chalk (some almost 1/2 a millimeter). Then I sprayed on a qick coat of hairspray and sprinkled on some salt. After 10 minutes I airbrushed on the yellow paint. after another 10 minutes I used a wet toothpick and rubbed as much of the little bumps off as I could. This often exposed the undercoat when the bump was salt but when it was rust coloured chalk the effect was great (see the last picture of the fender). The truck is not done as I have the bed to finish and a strip of filler to add above the windshield.
Interesting technique. Really easy.
Karl.A
July 2012
looking good so far Joel, cant wait to see how you finish this one off, rust texture looks great, I’m gonna need to investigate the chalk relief method in the near future.
Keep us posted.
Karl.A
Joel
August 2012
Another element I’m working on and hopefully it will all mix together. These are the walls for the tool shed. I left the door open and plan on completing the interior (in a subtle way of course) and lighting it. All keeping with a slightly newer but still sun faded wood structure.
admin
August 2012
Can’t wait to see it lit up. I especially like the wall with the signing and sliding door. Well done chap!
Wes
August 2012
I echo Bretts statement Joel. The rusted metal work of the sliding door is fantastic.
What lighting will you be using? Ive never tried it, so would be interested to see how you do it.
Joel
August 2012
Thanks for the nice comments guys. The rust is just water based paint dabbed with rust coloured chalk before it dries. Classic Sierrawest technique.
Ok six weeks to the show it’s time to start putting together all the elements. I am just about finished painting all the details for the tool shed interior and exterior. I finished a few dozen extra so when it comes time to sink everything into the dirt I’ll have what I need. Pictures soon. Meanwhile I thought I might need something other than the disconnect so I started the scrap and pipe car. the colours are too vivid in the picture but will be toned down after I finish the work bench.
I also decided I like the idea of sound with last years model so I will try and add some here too. I took my base and carefully drilled a hole andcarved out the styrofoam until I reached the wooden floorboards (from underneath). Then I epoxied in a speaker (sound activator really). I’ll try to connect the sound when the glue is dry.
It would be great if I can make the sound come from the inside of the shop. Cross your fingers. I also drilled the tiny hole for the lights. I’ll add the microlumina lights after I build them and have the structure glued down
GregInOz
September 2012
Joel, is this little speaker what I have heard described as an Exciter? I am interested in the placement of it…is it epoxied to the underside of the floor boards, or to the last of the foam? Thanks for clearing it up, in advance. Greg in Australia.
Joel
September 2012
Yup it’s an exciter. It’s not really that small - about 85mm across or 3.5 inches. First time I’ve ever tried these but I really liked the idea of getting the sound to eminate from the building. I’ll report back when I’ve actually turned it on. All I did was smear a bit of epoxy on the underside of the floor boards and then stick on the exciter. I’, going to try the same thing with the cliff behind the shed and the sound of rushing water.
Joel
September 2012
Ok well it’s time to start putting it all together. The details are about 95% painted and the main components are all done except the roof. I didn’t get a lot of feedback about the set up so I’m going with the initial plan. I cut a 30X36" board and glued down some styrofoam forms roughly cut from the pink insulation boards. Then I used the Bragdon urethane system and cast some of his molds and a few of mine. I buried 3 more exciters in the mountainside in case I want ambient sounds later. I glue gunned the molds to the styrofoam and filled in the open atreas with spray urtethane from a can. When dry I carved the rocks in between and then used some latex caulking to fill any small gaps and to smooth out any transistions. I used artists Gesso mixed with latex primer and black tempra powder to get a uniform gray undercoat…
Then I did about four washes of various colors (raw sienna, burt sienna, payne’s gray and burnt umber) mixed with lots of water and letting each layer dry before the next.
I used some sculptamold to smooth out the terrain where the building will be and buried all the wires for the sound and lights. BTW the exciter works beautifully under the floorboards - I guess they act as a sounding board.
Today’s plan is to finish the bridge and the trackwork (painted flex track) and hopefully pour the water
admin
September 2012
OMG…
Mike Engler
September 2012
Joel this is some great modeling. Can’t wait to see the final layout. Haven’t heard if the tool shed is still part of it. It looks like there will plenty to blow us away without it. The bridge is fabulous
Joel
September 2012
The bridge is a simple Blackbear jig. Two nights of straightforward, nothing to modify modeling. Really easy after yu distress and detail the wood. The tool shed is a part of the foreground. details are all done except the gas pump. Now have a few trees to build. Most of the big ones I bought from Canyon creek before I read the thread on this site and realized how straight forward they are to build. Too bad could have saved a few bucks. Either way they are beautiful.
LSNRwyAl
September 2012
From a boy that hunts on the Canadian shield your rocks are really nice. They sure look good in the pics and I bet they even look better in person. Well done Joel.
Joel
September 2012
Ok the gas pump is done except a bit of chalk weathering.
Now I spent about two hours arranging and rearranging trees until I think it looks about right. I dotted the cliffs with pines like they have here in Ontario using smaller ones with darker colours to force perspective a bit. I think i’ll finish the treed area before pouring the river.
It looks like the rockface is entirely covered but you can see it all from various vantages you just have to look at it from all angles.
Holidays coming up so I’ll have to put away my toys for a week so I’ll likely finish up the 15 or so trees and complete the casting painting. Small stuff.
brownbr
September 2012
the rock wall frames the scene in nice.
Karl.A
September 2012
Really looking nice Joel, the diorama is certainly spectacular with thos rocks and trees. Judging from what you have already shown us of the structures and details this is going to be another master piece, cant wait for the next update.
Karl.A
Joel
September 2012 edited September 2012
Well it’s time to panic. Three weeks until the show and I have no idea how I’m going to get all this done. I may just be finished a bit early for next years show. I finished the disconnect:
I’ve built two large deciduous trees and about twenty conifers.
And I’ve soldered all the wires on the micro LEDs (about a milimeter).
They seemed a bit too rectangular so I dipped them each into weldbond about 10 times to give them a globe shape. The weldbond dries clear so it should work.
Now the lampshades, the truck and the roof and I can start assembling the model when my guests leave and I get the ping pong table back (next week).
Karl.A
September 2012
Great work on the disconnect Joel and the tree is superb. That soldering job looks real tricky to me, though I’ll ultimately have to try it someday, hopefully I can be as precise as you.
Karl.A
Joel
September 2012
Thanks Karl,
Not really that tricky if you buy one of the soldering jigs. OK making some progress. Did the base of the roofs and finished off the bed of the truck ala Brian Nolan. Have to figure out what castings and dust it up but it’s almost there.
I did the roof bases… so far so good.
The truck bed is also quite weathered and beat up -
Having fun but looking less likely to make the Oct deadline.
Joel
September 2012
OK did the scenery for the backround cliff. Trees glued in place. Small green flags where the foreground trees go.
Also made some progress on the roof panels. Really happy with the rusted panels. All done as per Karl’s fantastic directions.
Just wiring the forge tonight and should be able to start planting the buildings and doing the water.
Wes
September 2012
Fantatsic work Joel. That corrugated Iron does look good. Infact the whole scene is looking great.
Cant wait to see the building come together.
admin
October 2012
Home stretch brother… Don’t fade now! Coming together nicely.
Bill
October 2012
Joel-
In addition to all the other elements, I wanted to add that your rock work is spectacular! Wow! Really nice. I’ve used Bragon’s casting resin and really liked working with it, but trying to color correctly was a bit frustrating. Hopefully, you’ll be at the expo and you can give me some pointers.
Looks great!
Bill
Joel
October 2012
Thanks for the encouragement Bill and Brett. It’s starting to come together. I put down some ground cover and glued down the building. Spent about 5 hours dabbling in details.
It’s a start.
I installed a couple of LEDs in the forge to give a flickering effect. You get the idea from the photo.
Now it’s the lights and roofs. Then the tool shed and CAT.
Karl.A
October 2012 edited October 2012
Thanks for the “mention” Joel, I had completely forgotten writing down those steps for you at last years show! Your panels turned out absolutely fantastic.
The diorama is turning out beautifully and coming together fast, one more week to go and you are way ahead of me, you even have track and painted details…
As Brett said, dont fade now, keep pushing, I’m looking forward to seeing this in person.
If these pictures are a good representation I shall be taking notes in Lancaster.
Karl.A
Joel
October 2012 edited October 2012
OK finally finished the roof. It took a lot longer than I thought but I’m quite proud of the final result.
The wiring is still visible but that’s the next step.
After the lights it’s time to do the mini CAT scene. Very excited about that one.
JamestownTrains
October 2012
Looking awesome! I hope to see it in person some day.
Wes
October 2012
Just stunning stuff Joel.
Wish I could get to see it in person.
Joel
October 2012
With any luck (and a few dozen hours of work) I’m still hoping to bring it to the Finescale Model show next week.
Jerry
October 2012
You better get going. A lot of people are looking forward to seeing this.
Excellent job so far Joel.
Jerry
Joel
October 2012
Well the CAT D8 is done (is anything ever done in this crazy hobby). The lights are functioning. Now all that’s left is the Tool Shed and then detailing. Also I can see the parting line on the CAT repairman’s head - Gotta fix that.
Wes
October 2012
I Didnt even see the repairmans parting line, I was too busy looking at the fantastic scene you had created Joel
Joel
October 2012
Mere hours before I leave and I finished the tool shed. All coming together nicely. I need some sun to get some good pictures. Maybe someone at the show who knows how to use a camera will take some nice shots. We’ll settle for these for now.
Close up of the shed with interior lit:
Detailed gas/oil - the cracked cement base was great fun to create.
A final teaser of my Porter comin’ down the rails…
John_in_australia
October 2012
Fantastic, good luck at the show.
Wes
October 2012
Just fantastic Joel. Let us know how the show goes.
LSNRwyAl
October 2012
Very nice. I love the look of use like the mud in the tractor treads.
brownbr
October 2012
Great work. Good luck at the show.
Karl.A
October 2012
Joel, congratulations on your award at the show for this beautiful diorama. The combination of powerful scenery and your great modelling of the kits really produced a stunning diorama.
Adding the lighting and sound really gave another dimension and atmosphere to your work, a beautiful piece.
Cant wait to see what is next in line on your work bench!!
Karl.A
admin
October 2012
I echo Karl’s comments, congrats on a beautiful diorama and the recognition of your peers. You always seem to blend kits, details, scenery, lighting, and sound effortlessly!
Bill
October 2012
Joel-
Congratulations on your award. It’s a fantastic display of craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing your weathering, scenicing, and lighting ideas with me. I went ahead and got a set from Microlumina so plan on an email or two from me to get this all figured out.
It was a pleasure meeting you!
Jerry
October 2012
Joel,
Another great diorama. Congratulations on you win. Looking forward to seeing what’s next.
Jerry
Joel
November 2012
Well it’s the first nice day since the show and as promised I took the diorama outside and snapped a few pictures. Nothing great but I’m a modeller not a photographer.
Here’s a foreground board with 2 nails (.006 wire blackened) sticking out of it.
And one last one that captured a lot of my house so I tried to paint in a sky.
brownbr
November 2012
Thanks for the update and congrats on the well deserved recognition. I just love all of the mini-scenes you have going on there. There is so much to take in. Wish I could have seen it in person.
Hope no one steps on those nails.
admin
November 2012
Great pics Joel, reinforces what an awesome diorama you created… The Tractor is especially well done.
Wes
November 2012
I echo what Brett has said Joel.
Wish i could have seen it in person. Maybe someday.
Karl.A
January 2021 edited January 2021
Well, this is Joels thread I meant to bump up, so here it is with the ‘cat’.
I was admiring both threads last night and bumped the wrong one, amazing work in both though so thats a bonus.
kebmo
January 2021
Karl.A said:
Incredible looking wall Joel.
I think I’m gonna take up knitting instead…
But before I do that I’m going to get some of that there asphaltum stuff to try out.
Karl.A
oh stop. your warehouse walls in blue sky are the best i’ve ever seen. stay away from my knitting needles…
Karl.A
January 2021 edited January 2021
Thanks so much Kevin,
maybe I’d had a corona or two when I made that post, its so long ago I don’t remember, ha.
I never forgot Joels amazing build though. A great reference thread.
kebmo
January 2021
i think brett resurrected this thread and i’ve never seen it before. while i’ve got you on the line…heheh,..do think drybrushing an asphaltium black acrylic paint very lightly could have the same or similar effect as the asphaltium glaze?
Karl.A
January 2021 edited January 2021
Hey Kevin, I resurrected the thread, and I assume youre talking to me.
Despite my post I never tried the asphaltium paint, I’ve always been more than happy with the results from the techniques in the SWSM manual. Adapt, adjust, advance.
I’m sure Joel will step in and answer any questions on usage of asphaltium glaze.
Joel
January 2021
Sorry Kevin I’ve never used the asphaltum black paint, just the glaze. I assume if you watered it down a bit it would have a similar effect but the extra water may warp the wood and fill in a lot of the distressing.
kebmo
January 2021
thanks gents. if i decide to try it i will tread carefully
vietnamseabee
January 2021
Ive seen the ‘Asphaltum’ referred to in several threads…who is the manufacturer?
Terry
kebmo
January 2021
terry,
i think there’s quite a few. valspar is one.
Joel
January 2021
Yeah I typically buy a bottle or 2 from Lowe’s every time I drive down to the States. Sadly that isn’t gonna happen this year so luckily I have a stockpile.