This thread was started in May, 2011
Karl.A
May 2011 edited July 2021 in O Scale Builds
Seeing Bill’s (Geezer) great rendition of the Wood Cutters Shack earlier today really inspired me to get mine back down from the shelf and move forward with it.
My build was stalled for the usual reason’s…
But, seeing someone elses finished pictures of how good it all looks got me to thinking.
Add to this Kevin’s new in-depth and out-standing thread on how to paint castings (centered around this kit), how could I not find motivation.
So, here’s where I left it a month or so ago.
Not much further to go on the main structure for me, but lots to do to come close to a diorama looking like Bill’s.
Idea’s, advice, comments and questions are all welcome and invited as I progress with the build.
After all, thats why we all joined, to improve our own modeling, learn from each other, pick up an idea or technique and to share what we know… and also of course, to just enjoy looking at each others work.
I look forward to your participation.
Karl.A
Comments
Wes
May 2011
Hey Karl
been watching yours and the others builds on the RR Line forum and so far there has been some nice work by all. I recieved my kit yesterday and i will be adding my build as soon as i can get going on it.
I look forward to more of your work. Its always inspiring.
admin
May 2011
I look forward to watching your build wes - I want this forum to be all about sharing our builds, techniques - successes and failures…
Geezer
May 2011
Now, I get to watch the “Pro’s” at it…
Should be a learning experience for me…
Karl.A
May 2011
I look forward to you joining in Wes, I have my stripwood for the shingles sitting in A&I right now, just to knock off the ‘new wood’ look.
Jump in as soon as you can.
Everytime is a learning experience for me also Bill, it keeps it all ‘interesting’…
Karl.A
May 2011
Well, I’m not really thrilled with the shingles at this point. The colour variation is there but my initial feeling is that it is too close to the siding colouration.
I know that they need some ‘adjustment’… I’ll try a strip or two with some raw umber shades to try and get to more of an aged red cedar colour as opposed to the grey tones it now has.
More later…
Karl.A
Karl.A
May 2011 edited May 2011
I randomly adjusted the colouraton of all the stripwood in groups, using colours such as raw umber, orange, burnt sienna.
I think this gave a slightly warmer ‘woody’ tone to the shingles as opposed to the cool grey tone it had before.
I also used Kevins method of using a razorsaw to break the stripwood to length, thus giving a more aged, jagged look to the shingle ends.
Time to take a break,inspect the yard and drink a corona or two before starting the application to the roof.
Karl.A
hoN3_rr
May 2011
Karl,
Can you take a moment to briefly describe “Kevins method of using a razorsaw to break the stripwood to length”?
Thanks in advance.
Karl.A
May 2011
Place the stripwood over the template and instead of cutting it to length with a blade place a razor saw where you want the cut and snap the wood at this point.
This results in a more aged end to the boards/shingles.
I generally just snap my boards to length for things like fences, decks, rotten wall siding, anywhere I want an uneven, broken edge.
I used Kevins method for this as the shingles need to be fairly close to the same length, it worked well.
Karl.A
hoN3_rr
May 2011
Thanks Karl for the explanation.
Karl.A
May 2011
You’re welcome Kris.
I added the shingles to the rear half of the roof this evening.
They still need some more attention and one or two need to be replaced, but, it’s a start.
More later, or tomorrow.
Karl.A
admin
May 2011
nothing like individual shingles… not even a pain on a small roof!
Karl.A
May 2011
You got that right, the results are unmatched and easy enough to do…
I forgot to mention when I opened this thread…
If anyone has this kit on a shelf, or even have it started on their bench… please join in on this thread and post pics, comments, etc. of your own build.
Several builds going at the same time is always fun to follow along with, even if they are at different stages, the ideas and creativity seem to flow.
I look forward to some more participants joining in and seeing what they are doing with this great kit also.
Karl.A
Wes
May 2011
Hey guys
I will be starting the shack soon, but i wanted to get your opinion on my wood colouring first. I roughed up a few boards with my scratch brush first then applied different chalks or weathering powders to the boards. Please ignore the fuzz.
Wes
May 2011
I dont see the picture.
John
May 2011
I like the shingles. Not being familiar with the wood that you are using I would try soaking some steel wool in vinegar for a few days and then see how it reacts with the wood. The effect on highly tanic woods can be amazing but remember, you will not know the true finish until you “coat over” it! Experiment on some scraps.
Karl.A
May 2011
Thanks for the input John,
the wood I am using for this kit is basswood, which as you say could take on some nice silver grey tones with the steelwool/vinegar concoction due to the tannin levels in basswood..
I purposely modeled the shack to have red cedar shingles, as I mentioned earlier, and white cedar siding.
As you are possibly aware, red cedar has very high tannin levels, which act as a natural preservative and make the red cedar more durable. Also the molecular structure of red cedar makes it a great natural insulator due to the air pockets within its composition.
This tannin level also causes red cedar to age differently by it simply darkening and retaining some of its warmer tones. This is why I previously went back and ammended the colour of the shingles earlier in the thread.
White cedar however contains different tannin levels, these levels cause the white cedar to take on that great silvery grey patina as it ages. As with many other types of wood.
The steel wool/vinegar ‘stain’ is indeed a great and easy method to replicate the silvery grey of aged wood quickly, however, that wasnt the look I was going for in this case for the shingles.
Thanks though for bringing this method to the attention of those who may have been unaware of it.
It’s always great to throw another method into everyones mixing pot.
Karl.A
Dwaine46
June 2011
Have you ever read the instructions, read the instructions, re-read the instructions and still not do it just right?
Oh well, just because I got the wall backwards!
Karl, hope you doin’t mind me using your wrench in the window idea.
My first Serria West build and enjoying every turn.
Dwaine
admin
June 2011 edited June 2011
backwards wall - no problem… Keep posting !! If you can take a minute and straighten up the door handles. You formed them really well and they will look much better straight. Take your time and dont sweat it…
MikeM
June 2011 edited June 2011
Personally I find the crooked door handles add character… Hey, you do carpentry in real life your way and I’ll do it mine.
Karl.A
June 2011
Looking good so far Dwain, the reversed front wall will add an individuality to your build, I have done this on a few kits to get a slightly different look from the original.
I agree that a little time spent re-glueing the handles straight will greatly improve the look of the doors and structure overall.
Maybe also crack one of the doors slightly open. this will give them added depth and definition.
I look forward to your next updates…
Karl.A
hoN3_rr
June 2011
I’m enjoying seeing your build. Some great coloring on the walls. Please keep the pictures coming.
Wes
June 2011
Ive finally got started on my shack. This is my first O scale build, and i have to admit, i love it.
Here is my rear wall. The left window sill needs to be glued down properly.
Let me know what you think.
Karl.A
June 2011
After attaching the file to your post Wes you need to click “insert image”.
This will show the picture in your post. I did it for you here.
The wall looks great, and the windows framing is nice and tight and straight, nice colouring and texture on the walls also.
Karl.A
admin
June 2011
Wes - looks great. like the color a lot with a natural variation. the real beauty of board on board!
Bill
June 2011 edited June 2011
Looks like you’re off and running Wes. Just a thought…don’t forget to add a little variety to the windows (prop one open, knock out a pane, patch a pane up with a piece of corrugated metal, etc.) I made some real simple cracks by scratching the dull cote with a sharp #11
hoN3_rr
June 2011
Really… really nice coloring on the siding!!!
Wes
June 2011
Thanks for the kind words guys. Much appreciated.
Karl i tried the insert button, but it comes up with a small square with a red x in it. I will try it again later when i upload more progress pics.
Dwaine46
June 2011
Thanks for all the encouragement.
OK, I got the roof on, and that has not been a 30 min job……………. Love the idea of “breaking” the shingles with the razor saw. It does give them more of a ruff, old appearance, sort of what I was going for.
Opened the door a little and kind of straiten the door handles.
One question, the darker spots on the roof are from glue. Made them look a little better with a steel brush, but under flash photography they really stand out. Do I try to cover them up w/ chalk and alcohol, or just chalk? if so what colors should I go with? Really I’m asking the best way to cover the glue spots.
Amazing how when you are doing this, the flaws do not stand out near as bad until you take a picture and blow it up on the screen.
hoN3_rr
June 2011
That camera is one tough critic!! I’m real interested to hear what the suggestions are for your question as I am unable to make a suggestion. Build looks like it’s coming along nicely however.
admin
June 2011 edited June 2011
In my experience with glue spots I have found you cannot hide them, they keep coming back… I would take a new #11 blade and VERY GENTLY scrape the minimum amount of wood away to remove the offending mark then recolor with chalk/alcohol. Blend the touch-up into the rest of the roof with more chalk powder. Your shack looks really nice and you should be really proud of the build so far Dwaine! Keep at it…
Kevin
June 2011
Just some experiments with the back wall. Had my first career spill of my A&I bottle (just floquil bottle size) and the splotch you see under the window is a drip which I will blend in with chalk. I built up the window over the template in a double layer and placed it over the opening, marked around it with a #11 and then removed the siding and fit the window in. It was bare wood that I colored in place. Brett, it still looks bland as you say but in person there is a lot of contrast between boards and under each edge.
OM (Kevin
admin
June 2011
Not bland anymore buddy… Love the overall look and feel.
hoN3_rr
June 2011
I, for one, like the look where the ‘accident’ was!
Dwaine46
June 2011
Kevin
when I was a young teen, I went to northern Arkansas to help my grandfather work on his house. We built a garage and a shed with ruff cut lumber bought cheep from a local sawmill, sort of a seconds pile. Some were weathered, some were newer.
Your wall reminds me so much of the walls we built.
Looking good, thanks for the memory…dwaine
Karl.A
June 2011
Colouration is far from bland… great tonal differential.
Shame about the ‘spill spot’ but I’m sure you will have no problem blending it back in and correcting the issue, thats the beauty of the Rembrandt chalks.
Your rough cut random siding really looks great and recessing the windows makes a big difference visually. The few times I’ve done it that way came out great (IMO) so I know how much extra effort it takes, but your pictures definately show that it’s worth the added time.
YM
Oh, if that was your first spill, be thankful that it was your weak A&I bottle and not my bottle of “I”,
A few of my previous build walls have been rebuilt due to similar ‘incidents’… (obviously behind the scenes and previously un-publicised)
Looking forward to more,
Karl.A
Kevin
June 2011
Thanks Boss, YM, KP and Dwaine
Dwaine, I looked at a few pics of the prototype of this kind of rough cut siding but mostly just winged it so the fact that it reminds you of something you built is very gratifying.
Benchtop lighting of various types so ignore the red tone. I just wanted to show the frame I assembled over the template and how I had to cut back the siding to fit them in. The frame had to be double thickness because of the recess. I lined it up in the opening and tacked it in place with a few drops of glue then carefully scribed around the frame with a #11 blade to mark it. Remove the frame and carefully cut out the siding. I stuck together two sash halves with double sided tape just to see how it would fit. Just a side note, as I looked at the temporarily assembled sash I wondered if using the double sided tape for the glazing had its possibilities. Brett, I’m sure you’ve had experience with this so what do you think?
KOM (that’s right, Kevin Old Minion)
hoN3_rr
June 2011
I ‘dabbled’ a bit on one of my builds with the ruff cut siding, and did not come out with the look that you have, which is excellent. I, for one, can appreciate the additional effort and time it took to achieve the results you have. Well done.
MikeM
June 2011
Don’t know if this effect would fit your needs:
Geezer
June 2011
Man- this is great!!! I love the shiplap siding…
keep it coming…Also like the “broken” shingles using therazor saw
trick…neat idea…
Geezer
Wes
July 2011
Hey guys
Ive finally had the chance to make some progress. Work has been chaotic lately.
The main structure is basically complete. Just need to weather the door handles, and maybe add some signs to the wall. Let me know what you think.
Regards
Wes
admin
July 2011
great job - love the coloration and overall feel - ridge cap looks especially nice. no nitpicks here…
Wes
July 2011
Thanks Brett. Much appreciated. Been such a joy building this kit so far. Hope to start on the 6 pole shed tonight.
Dwaine46
July 2011
Finally got my shed finished. That was fun, or should I say a real challenge for me, I only broke it 4 times before getting it to stay together. Brett’s instructions suggested making it a shade darker than the shack. Well I’m here to tell you a little black chalk goes a long way. Maybe a little more lighter chalk on the roof?
Question, I did just a few of the metal castings in Blacken-it, kept moving them around but still getting a few “white spots”. Although they do seem to buff out. Suggestions?
Wes, love the look of your shack. You’ve even got the stovepipe installed and rust looks super.
Dwaine
admin
July 2011
Looking good Dwaine… try swirling a cheap paint brush around the casting while it is submerged… that will do the trick for you
Karl.A
July 2011
As Brett says the swirling should dislodge any air bubbles attached to the casting thus allowing the blacken it to react with the metal.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2011
Spent a little time today adding the top row of ‘half’ shingles and then the roof cap.
I guess the next thing to do will be the rafters and then on to the six pole shed…
Karl.A
Dwaine46
July 2011
Things are starting to come togeather.
What is wrong with this picture?
I have had 2 jobs finish and have not done the recaps, it is the end of the month and my reports are due tomorrow. And what am I doing, sitting at the table drilling holes in pieces of plastic, gluing toothpicks in them and painting them a base coat.
Oh well, that we suffer the slings and arrows for our hobby!!!
Wes
July 2011
I know what you mean Dwaine. Once you get started on one of Bretts kits they are hard to put down. 
Your castings are looking great by the way. Looking forward to more updates.
Dwaine46
August 2011
Wes, thanks for the comment, glad to know that I’m not the only one caught up in this. Six months ago I would have bet that I wouldn’t have even finished the shingles on the shack, much less finished the shed and started on the castings. But with Brett’s’ and everyone else’s encouragement, I just can’t put it down.
Karl, Brett, thanks for the help with the Blacken-it. The old paintbrush worked great. I was even able to re-do the ones I had messed up.
hoN3_rr
August 2011 edited August 2011
I’m currently working on the Wood Cutters Shack, and this is currently what I have. I’ll be doing some light modifications to the structure as it will become a pump house for a mine diorama which I’m working on.
Daryl
August 2011
the shack looks great
admin
August 2011
looks really good - great overall dusty and aged appearance… weathering blended, not overdone, but what gives with the “yellow” knots?
hoN3_rr
August 2011 edited August 2011
If one really studies knot holes, you will discover that in reality there are a lot of knots are actually lighter in color and not all dark brown and black like we mostly of when we are modeling knot holes. You will note that there is a heavy dark ring around the knot and that the center of the knot is also dark, but there is a lot of lighter colored ‘wood’ within the knot. See the attached pictures.
The yellow knots are actually some experiments I was doing in trying to capture the the lighter color of knot holes and the darker colors associated within the knot holes. The knot hole two boards below the window on the right in the third picture better shows what I was really after. I think I have developed a technique to color knot holes like this fairly easily. I’ll be testing the process on the public this weekend at a train show.
admin
August 2011
the pictures illustrate your point of view quite nicely… but… as I have said for over 20 years not everything in real life looks good modeled. The yellow coloration of the wood cutters shack knots looks odd and distracts from the otherwise excellent modeling KP…
Daryl
August 2011
maybe a very light touch with a light I/A on the knots would age more ?
Karl.A
August 2011
I really like the innitial colouring and texture of the boards themselves Kris, a really great, natural aged colour, but, I also find the knots very ‘distracting’, not only because of the colour, but maybe even more so because of the large ‘stain’ that surrounds many of them, it makes them look ‘messy’ for want of a better descriptive.
The first “prototype” picture really isnt comparable as it shows creosoted wood, in which the knots in the darker boards are presumably lighter due to the creosote being washed away into the knot, as it is endgrain and would hold the moisture and draw it in, along with the creosote.
In the adjacent lighter, more natural boards the knots are the same colour as the board, this indicates to me that the strange colouration is due to the creosote/stain.
In the second pic you may note that only some of the knots are a lighter colour, not all of them, in addition to this those specific boards are darker than the rest.
In all the other boards however the knots are darker than the board which contains them.
In both cases the knot colouring is clear, sharp and distinct, there is no smudge or stain surrounding them and that is what my eye is drawn to on the model.
Granted that there are examples of lighter knots out there, but it doesnt appear to be the norm, and for me it doesnt really look right. Just some of my thoughts.
Karl.A
MikeM
August 2011
I found the appearance of the knotholes distracting, drawing too much attention away from the rest of the structure. I suspect this type of knothole is relatively rare (in my 67 years I don’t remember ever seeing one) which may be why it caught my eye as it did.
I did find one picture of knotholes in old barn siding with yellowish knotholes but the coloration appears pretty much confined to the knot itself, not really spreading out (as your picture looks to me).
On a positive note, I love the way you weathered the signs; I wish I were that good with those.
Dwaine46
August 2011
Now is when it really comes down to the details, dosn’t it!
Buy the way KP, love the effect of the nail holes!
admin
August 2011
excellent job there buddy - i am impressed with the overall finish and feel you got… really good looking.. a couple of things i notice here - very carefully straighten the valve handle on the tank with a pair of tweezers… if it breaks no biggie, i will send another. straighten out the ratfter tails with tweezers. a little extra glue may be needed if they pop off.
Karl.A
August 2011
The tank looks good Dwaine, weathered nicely and certainly not overdone, just right…
It is definately still in operation and leak free but it has some years on it as you have shown by the surface rusting, although this is certainly not a structural integrity problem.
Also the heavier rust around the seams and rivits is great as this is where the moisture would be held longer and therefor rust a little more heavily, nice job!!
As Brett says, try to straighten the valve handle and rafters to enhance and elevate the model even further.
I look forward to the next set of pics …
Karl.A
Dwaine46
August 2011
Does look a lot better, Thanks.
Brett, Karl, thanks so much for the comments and help.
dwaine
Dwaine46
August 2011
What color paint do you suggest for the shovel handles and for the wheelborrow handles?
everything I have seems eather to dark or too light…dwaine
admin
August 2011
tanks looks much better…
handles - try flo earth and then once dry a little chalk powder (darker) applied with your fingers to darken the tip - roll the handle between your thumb and pointer covered with chalk
Wes
August 2011 edited August 2011
Hi guys
Im slowly making progress on my build. Ive attached some pictures and id like to hear your thoughts.
I Still have to complete the tank.
As always i look forward to your comments.
LSNRwyAl
August 2011
Colours are nice and the building colours differ which is nice.
Something in window to show it is held open ?
Some contents spillage on tank support platform / frame ?
Karl.A
August 2011 edited August 2011
Great colours on the roofs Wes… did you rework the shack roof or is it the different lighting??? It really looks good!!
Not all windows needed something to hold them open, there was apparently a time when they did actually work as designed.
Personally I rarely use a stick or anything else to keep them open. At the timescale I model they would all be in pretty good working order and fairly new.
Of course every now and then I’ll throw a wrench in the works, just for perceived visual interest and appeal.
Good tip on the oil stains Alan, definately some oil spills/drips/stains will be appearing for me when I get to that point on my own construction.
Karl.A
Wes
August 2011
Thanks for the compliments Alan and Karl.
Still need to complete the tank and the oil stain will definately be put on. Im kind of leaning towards Karls idea that the window is in good working order and doesnt need to be proped open. Things might change once ive cluttered up the front porch.
Karl i did rework the roof with a light AI wash then some gray and light brown chalks. Tried to blend it all together a bit more. I prefer the look now.
I hope to get the main structures glued to the base tonight. The missus is away for the evening so i have the whole night to model.
Dwaine46
August 2011
My version of the sled. Did not know how long the shaft should be (I did not cut it) and whether i should put a gear or drive belt pully on the end.
Am also going to try put some corrugated tin over the fill hole.
Wes
August 2011
Not bad Dwaine. I like the colour variation on the tank. My only suggestion would be to to tone down the red and the blue of the 2 barrells. A quick dusting of some weathering powders should do the trick.
Dwaine46
August 2011
Thanks Wes. I guess i did leave them a little shiny.
Really like the way your roof turned out…dc
admin
August 2011
wes: awesome job roof, sawblade, door, windows… sum total kicks butt - terrific job. i am looking forward to seeing the details pull it all together
dwaine: yeah - too shiny but the overall fell is great - just dull those suckers down with chalk and rub alc…
Kevin
September 2011
Here is something other than just cutting a piece of green paper and sticking it behind a window. The shade is a piece of tracing paper that I folded over then unfolded. I wet a piece of thread with dilute white glue and layed it in the crease, brushed on dilute glue on the paper and folded it over. It dries in a couple of seconds under a hot lamp. Dust on some chalk to dirty up the shade. Go over the edge where the thread is with any dark shade to hi-lite the “wood slat”. A little piece of thread for the pull and that’s it. I’m sure certain people will tell me the cord is out of scale so I will use finer thread next time. This was just a fun little 1/2 hour project to come up with something different for a window shade.
OM
MikeM
September 2011
This looks great, terrific yet simple idea. Perhaps a cord made with a bit of fine wire (appliance cord strand?) with a round loop on the end made with needle-point tweezers?
Wes
September 2011
Hi guys
Im calling this one finished. It was my first Sierra west kit, and i loved it. Bretts instructions are by far the best I`ve ever used.
Let me know your thoughts.
LSNRwyAl
September 2011
Very nice. Well done as it all fits together.
Karl.A
September 2011
Very, very nicely done Wes. Hard to believe it’s your ‘first’. Everything really looks great, colours and textures are superb and the whole scene feels very natural.
Karl.A
The round base is also a neat touch and shows off the model very well, great job.
Daryl
September 2011
excellent job,and I do like the blind
Wes
September 2011
Thanks for the kind comments guys. I’m looking forward to starting my next kit from Brett this weekend.
Bill
September 2011
Wes-
Congrats on a nice looking diorama! Your roof coloration is especially well done–an imporatant feature because that’s what everybody sees first.
You should be proud of your efforts!
Which kit are you diving into next?
Wes
September 2011
Thanks Bill. Much appreciated. My next build will be the O scale blue sky company from Brett. Can’t wait to get going on that.
Karl.A
September 2011
The O scale BlueSky is an awesome kit to build Wes, you will REALLY enjoy it.
Please feel free to post your build in the BSC thread I started a while ago. I’m looking forward to getting back to that build and having someone else to share it with will be even more fun. I look forward to following your work.
Congrats again on this great build.
Karl.A
Wes
September 2011
You right Karl. I’ve had a look through the box , and there is so much to build. I’ll be sure to post my progress pics.
Dwaine46
September 2011
Even the trail around back. Wes, you did real good!!!
Just arrived for my birthday (Happy Birthday to me!) was BlueSky. Like you Wes, I am really looking forward to this one. Looks like it should keep me out of the Pool Hall for some time. Karl, I have already started to glean information from your pics. I have learned A LOT from building the Woodcutters Shack and just hope I can carry it over to BlueSky.
Look forward to seeing everybody’s pictures………….dc
Wes
September 2011
Thanks Dwaine. Much appreciated.
hoN3_rr
September 2011
Really a nice build Wes. Well done and I’m looking forward to seeing your next project come to life.
As I noted earlier, I’m making some light modifications to the kit to become a ‘pump house’. Just a few update pictures of the project at this point.
On the pole shed side of the structure I have a insulated steam pipe and two air pipes. These pipes will be going to one of the mines on the diorama. The steam pipe is approx. a scale 6 inches dia. and the air pipes are approx 3 scale inches in dia. Flanges on the pipes is made with paper wrapped around the brass tubing. The flanges on the air pipes is .07 inch wide paper wrapped about once around the pipe. The pipes will be going into the side of the shed so that about a scale 5 feet space will be between the two structures, with the globe valves and piping between the two structures.
Jerry
September 2011
Really some nice steam & air piping.
Jerry
hoN3_rr
October 2011
A couple of evaluation pictures now that the lid is on the pole shed.
admin
October 2011
looking good so far KP… I like the tarpaper weathering on the shed… The signs came out really nice as well.
Kevin
November 2011
Here are a few pics of the front wall. I used Reaper Master series #09124 Adamantium black to color the hinges. I got this color when I ordered a bunch of the other Reaper colors but had never used it. I thought it was just regular black but after trying it on the hinges I saw how it has a slight metallic quality to it. To my eye it gave the hinges the look of hammered black wrought iron hinges. I went over the hinges with a very very faint, thin wash of Vallejo dark rust. I think they came out really nice and in person they look even better. The sawblade that starts out as laser cut wood was done by pressing the blade on a conical shaped bit chucked in my dremel and painting it as it spins. I use a mix of Reaper tarnished steel and Vallejo dark rust. A really neat trick to get the circular marks on the blade.
OM (Kevin)
admin
November 2011
outstanding as usual… the sawblade is perfect - really hard to believe looking at your pics that the blade started out life as a laser cut paper piece. That reaper paint is great and you exploit it perfectly…
Kevin
November 2011
Thanks Boss
Such a simple technique (painting the blade while it’s turning) that gives such great results.
OM
Karl.A
November 2011
Excellent work Kevin, the colour and effect on that saw blade is incredible.
The rough cut siding really looks great and the colour on the door and hinges is very nice.
Looking forward to seeing the next steps you take with this.
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
November 2011
Awesome as usual. Well Done.
Wes
November 2011
Those hinges do look stunning Kevin. Looks like another one of those reaper paints that i need to order.
Kevin
December 2011
A few more pics of two walls just tacked together. The plank edges were done by carefully whittling the edges with a #11 blade. Use a very light touch and hold the blade at a slight angle as you shave of the edge. I colored the boards first with PH Martins sepia ink and alcohol which is mixed like a regular batch of A&I. The sepia just has a warmer brownish tone to it but A&I would be just fine. I brush various Rembrandt chalks into the wood using worn out stiff bristle brushes. Gold ochre mostly but also some raw umber #408.3 and a little black and burnt sienna #411.3. Use the darker colors along the bottom edges of the boards to give some definition. For this method I don’t use alcohol or anyting else to wash the chalk into the wood. It is all brushed and blended dry until I feel it looks right. Thanks Brett for the gift of these Rembrandt chalks!!! They are so easy to use and very forgiving. Here are a few pics including some of the materials I use. For any of you reading this who are new to building SierraWest kits please have at it with any questions.
OM (Kevin)
admin
December 2011
wow…
brownbr
December 2011
I love it. I’m going to give it a try…on some scrap wood first of course
Karl.A
December 2011
Fantastic Kevin! Superb modelling in every respect.
Karl.A
Wes
December 2011
That looks awesome kevin. The idea of making the boards towards the bottom a bit darker i a really great idea and one I will definately use.
Kevin
December 2011
Nothing dramatic other than the fact that these four walls are actually glued together.
I will probably be making another roof card because when I decided to go out the SW box with the different siding I changed the footprint slightly. The shingles are next so that ought to be fun!
OM
brownbr
December 2011
I just can’t get over how realistic this looks. The 3rd photo is my favorite.
Kevin
December 2011 edited December 2011
Hey guys,
I figured I’d throw in this info here while I figure how I’m going to do the shed roof.
The other day my sisters photographer friend brought all his equipment over to take some pics of the Tool/Rigging shed. The pics you see are just the shots I took with my camera in hand using his lighting setup. Personally I think he over did it with the lighting and should have bounced the light more. Brett, what do you think? The two kits are squeezed on a space that is not quite big enough so things are a bit cluttered.
OM
LSNRwyAl
December 2011
The modeling sure is good.
Kevin
December 2011
Hey guys,
I’m just about finished with the tank and platform so heres a few pics. I’m running out to do last minute Santa stuff so no time for SBS.
Merry Christmas to all and have a Corona (or two) tonight!!
OM
LSNRwyAl
December 2011
I like it !!
brownbr
December 2011
Most impressive. I especially like the oil stain caked with dirt going down the side. What did you use to make that?
Dwaine46
December 2011
And the bolt heads on the wood? Great!!!
Dwaine
Wes
December 2011
More inspiring work Kevin
Kevin
December 2011
Thanks for the compliments guys. Bryan, for the oil stain I dab on Windsor-Newton water mixable oil (burnt umber) until it looks like a realistic spill pattern. I then use a small soft brush to lightly dab on some Rembrandt black chalk over all the area I hit with the WN oil. I think the effect is subtle and for more realistic then the uniform shiny black bands of goop that we often see modeled.
Kevin
admin
December 2011
I’m looking forward to seeing the shack fully detailed and incorporated into the existing diorama… You know how much I like the appearance of the boards and recessed windows.
Kevin
December 2011
Shingling is lots of fun!! Not!!! I cut the roof card in half and do one side at a time. I cut each shingle by scoring the wood with my coarse razor saw to give nice rough cut ends. I actually take each one in hand after cutting and burn the fuzz off. I know I’m crazy and nobody else will take the flame to the wood but whatever, ha ha. The wood is first textured then cut to size then dumped into the A&I. I pull the pieces out and dry under a hot bulb for a minute. When you do it this way there are no ends to touch up after. Further coloring comes after the roof is shingled.
I made a wash of Floquil roof brown, grime and mud in equal parts cut with mineral spirits (Brian Nolan techniques here). I brushed in some tan colored chalk while the roof was still a little wet. When dry I dry-brushed with some off white and tan colored acrylic paint. The few pics I took look a little too red so I have already gone over the roof with some darker chalk. I did want the roof to kind of blend with the siding so that is why I choose not to go with a more grey tone to the roof.
OM
brownbr
December 2011
Looks very much like a real cedar roof.
Karl.A
December 2011
The shingles are really looking great OM, colouring is nice and earthy and the rough edges really add to that worn look. I also like the deeper warmer tone of the shingles in contrast to the lighter and cooler siding.
I know I’m crazy and nobody else will take the flame to the wood but whatever, ha ha.
Hey now!! your not crazy, well, not too much… ;~)
And as you know from our previous conversations I also “take the flame to the wood” and have done so for a long time, even to the extent of using it for coloring.
So, feel confident in the fact that you are not crazy, and you are not alone, simply one of the few. (that we know of).
Karl.A
Kevin
January 2012
If you went to a show and paid $20 for this little sled and tank you would be happy. What a great detail and it goes along with my approach that the separate parts and details that Brett includes in his kits should be treated as models unto themselves. Forget the track as this is just the the quick scene I made for the Blacksmith car. I just wanted to see this neat little item on some dirt. I will probably go back to the bench and touch up a few areas, add some indications of old grease and tone down the orange rust areas.
OM
Wes
January 2012
Superb job Kevin. Cant say much more really.
admin
January 2012
usual high standards there buddy… very effective detail.
Kevin
January 2012
Thanks Boss and Wes, again these details are just a blast to do. For those of you who might be trying your first upscale kit like this if you look at these castings and parts as separate components the task of painting “all those castings” becomes less daunting. I find it very rewarding to approach a build in this manner.
OM
brownbr
January 2012
Thought I’d throw my version in here. Kevin’s a tough act to follow. I didn’t keep up with construction photos with this one so here’s a couple of how it is now.
I’m going to have to re-do the left door as I got crooked sanding it and trying to fix it only made it worse. Also have a little of cluttering up to do around the workbenches. I’d like to have some newspaper trash around. What do you think would work best?
Kevin
January 2012
Hey Bryan
It just doesn’t get any better! Beautiful modeling all around.
Kevin
Bill
January 2012 edited January 2012
Kevin-
your work continues to inspire. We’re running out of different ways to say “awesome.” I’m onboard with your “details are models, too” philosophy-- Little pictures that make up the whole painting. Whatever you used for dirt, it’s got a very cool texture.
Bryan-
well done! Way to go the extra mile and split up all that cord wood. I think that’s one of those little details people will notice right away. Great job on the hoses on your acetylene tanks. One thing I spot right away are cables/ropes/hoses that stick up all over the place defying gravity. Not on yours, though. Very good.
As far as newspapers…personally, I wouldn’t at this point. I get more of an “urban” feel when I see scraps of newspaper. When I see wood cutters, I think backwoods and forests…a long way from anybody’s paper route.
Karl.A
January 2012
I completely agree with Bill.
The last picture is my favorite Bryan, it really conveys the scene very well indeed. Nice job.
Karl.A
brownbr
January 2012
Thanks a bunch Kevin, Bill and Karl. I have learned so much from watching each of your models progress.
Bill, my dirt is dirt from the backyard. Once you get below the topsoil here there is a nice clay/sand mix. I dug some up last summer and let it bake outside, breaking the clumps as it dried. Once completely dry I crushed it up and sifted it through a metal colander. To get finer particles I sift again through a tea strainer.
For the dirt here I started by painting the foam a dirt color. BTW the paint mixer didn’t like it when I asked him if the paint sample I chose looked like dirt. While the 2nd coat was still wet I sprinkled on the dirt. Once I had placed everything and glued it down I sifted the finer soil on with the tea strainer so everything looked like it was set in the ground. I set this with matte medium.
The cordwood is from a butterfly bush. Love the texture on it’s bark. Unfortunately it died this summer. I need to plant another one…for the butterflies or more cordwood. That wood chopper sure has been busy.
Kevin
January 2012
Some progress for the old slow guy!! Some quick dirt sifted on dry just to get an idea how things will look. Believe it or not a lot of the details are done and ready to go. I did the barrels with some very quick and varied techniques. On some of them I dusted on various chalks while paint was still wet. On one I gave it a drybrush coat of Polly s oily black and went on top of that with chalks. A couple are primed black, hit with hair spray, and chalk dabbed on over that, and finally passed under the mist of a shot of dullcote. The lesson is try a bunch of techniques and have fun. Here are some pics.
Kevin
Wes
January 2012
The way you manage to transform these castings into something so realistic looking blows me away Kevin. Stunning work.
brownbr
January 2012
Inspirational work. Your woodcutter seems to be more of a jack of all trades with that anvil in there.
admin
January 2012
Usual high standards… Of particular notice was the box of spare parts (resin casting) between the sled and the loggers peavy - very well done!
Kevin
January 2012
A little experimenting here today so I need some minion opinions. I thought I might carry the rough cut look of the siding over to the open shed. I whittled a few of the sticks you sent me Brett and put the heavy beam on top. They are actually pinned but not glued yet. I think it has possibilities.
OM
Bill
January 2012
Kevin-
The entire scene is truly amazing. So many details–the anvil and the vice=perfect; the texture of the burn barrel!! Wow! And I love the handle on the Peavy…the wood is worn from use and even has a crack at the top. Nice!
For your rough cut beams, I think the color and texture look fine but how are you going to connect them? I wonder if it’s possible to fashion something that looks like a motise & tenon type joint with some wood pegs. Sort of like the way they would join heavy timbers in the lining of a mine or on a barn:
Just an idea.
Kevin
January 2012
Hey Bill
Thanks for the compliments. As far as the timber joints go the verticals have tenons cut on top and then they are greased and hammered into the mortises cut in the heavy horizontal timber while still on the ground. Then the gang barn raises them in place. Sounds good to me. Actually Bill, as long as something I model doesn’t look absolutely ridiculous I don’t care very much if it’s not totally prototypical construction. There will be side bracing of course and I think the finished shed will look structurally believable. I appreciate the input.
Kevin
Kevin
January 2012
Hey Bill, just so you know, each joint has now been pinned. I’m glad you gave me that idea.
Kevin
admin
January 2012
love it!
Karl.A
January 2012
Fantastic Kevin, love the look of the posts/beams, rough cut and split…awesome!
Karl.A
Kevin
January 2012
Thanks all you minions for your most valued opinions. A little more fun today with rough cut boards.
KO
Bill
January 2012
Brilliant work, Kevin!
Wes
January 2012
Damn fantastic Kevin.
Kevin
March 2012
just some test pics.
Wes
March 2012
Stunning stuff.
ETinBH
March 2012 edited March 2012
try again Kevin - let me know what you think of mine - of course yours are great!
Karl.A
December 2013
Well, it’s been quite a while since I was in here so I figure it’s time to brush off the dust and try to get this ball rolling again…
Details, details, details…
It seems that I have misplaced quite a few of the detail castings in the last couple of years, or possibly used one or two else where. I’m sure they’ll turn up tomorrow when I have a good look for them… in the mean time I have plenty of others to get started on.
As always with Bretts castings the clarity and detail is exceptional and there is next to no (if any) clean up required prior to prepping.
Metal detail parts…
Blackened with “a-west blacken-it”… ready for some judicial buffing.
Resin detail parts ready for painting, atleast the ones I could find…
“wooden” items primed with earth/tan colour spray paint.
“metal” items primed with black spray paint.
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
Hi Karl,
glad to see you back on this one, this will be my first kit to tackle this winter…my wife promises me some time after the holidays…I’m never sure that will happen…here’s to hoping
keep up the great work and tutorials
Scott
KKarns
December 2013
As I mentioned in the past, you O scalers are amazing! Kevin, your stuff is just beautiful…great tips along the way as well. All you all in this group build are putting down some nice work. Love the tank on the wood crate casting! Karl, I see a sock fresh from the sock drawer…aren’t you afraid it might alter the back side of those metal castings? Ken
Karl.A
December 2013
Dang it Ken !! You’ve figured out one of my secret rusting and corroding techniques.
Karl.A
December 2013
Yep that ‘oil tank bench’ is a great casting Ken, lots of fine detail and character.
If you look closely at the first picture you can see that Brett even cast in some splinters !!
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
That guy is good! Great castings and wonderful treatment Karl. Keep the darn sock away from these…I think they’re good as is! I’m really liking all the different tank casting Brett has done in both O and HO scales. I know he likes them a bunch and I can see why, he is masterful at these.
Bill
December 2013
Fine work, as always Karl! You’ve got real nice subtle tones on all those little pieces in the boxes and on the shelves. They stand out but don’t SHOUT out. What’s really cool is the right hand corner of the bench just below the tank. Perfect coloring!
I’m glad to see this thread come back up to the top. I had a chance to look back over Kevin’s work. Man, the amount of talent he had!
At the last Expo he attended he brought along one of his walls similar to the wood cutters shack. I couldn’t understand the way he got that rough-swan look, so he took me and Joel up to his room for a quick mini-clinic. He drug (dragged?) a straight razor along the board with the razor almost straight up and down–which caused it to “skip” and leave the saw banding marks. But he took it a step further by carving the edges a bit to give it an imperfect backwoods look. As opposed to boards that came straight from the lumber yard.
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks Ken and Bill, I’m trying out a few new things to try and improve my detail work. The bench has quite a bit more contrast in the wood than the pictures show, the bright lights blend everything, I did want a warmer red/brown but I started with the wrong base colour, maybe next time.
I agree Bill I spent a few hours looking back over Kevin’s work when I re-opened the thread. He was a great guy and a very talented modeler, very missed.
I’m not sure drugged and taken to his room is a good story to share…
Karl.A
Bill
December 2013
LOL! Hey…everything was going fine until it got weird. Then, we focused on model building. Plus, it was Joel’s idea!
Karl.A
December 2013
Figures, it’s always the quiet ones…
James
December 2013
it’s nice to have a couple builds going at once of the same kit. I’m always amazed at how different builds can look, even if the differences are subtle.
Karl.A
December 2013
Also great for stealing ideas from each other James.
Keep up the great work!!
Karl.A
ironmountainlumber
December 2013
Great job on the castings. Seems very natural. All these great kits and scratch building you have done would make an awesome scene when placed together!
Jim
Joel
December 2013
I’ve been called a lot of nasty things in my life but never “quiet”. Thanks for adding to my list of negative qualities.
As for the build it is one of my favourite designs ( although it seems every SierraWest kit is one of my favourites) and you are raising the bar pretty high.
Karl.A
January 2014
Thanks for the kind words Jim and Joel…
In order for that to happen Jim I’d have to get my crap together… who knows, one day.
Yeah I know what you mean about favourites Joel, my favourite seems to be the one I just finished or the one I’m just starting, and then there’s the one I’m planning next…
Christmas over, back to the bench… did a little more work on some of the castings, trying to ease myself back into it and show some progress.
Gotta love Brett’s castings, clean, crisp and no clean-up
Karl.A
Wes
January 2014
Gotta love Bretts castings and The work you do on them Karl.
JohnM
January 2014
Karl,
This is breath taking . . . .
John Maguire
Seattle
Bill
January 2014
Karl-
Is the green on that tank above the ‘Christmas Green’ or some brighter, different green?
I’m waiting for a SBS on how you go from that shade to the dulled down and weathered color that will show up in a post or two from now.
BTW, I caught the wear marks on the end of the shovel. Nice!
Karl.A
January 2014
Thanks Wes, John and Bill.
Yes Bill it is Christmas Green.
Handling while doing the chipping tends to tone down the green some, especially if you have ‘chalky’ fingers.
More specific dulling is done with chalks dry on a 5/0 detail brush, such as the darker bottom now added. Further steps will follow as I proceed.
Good eye on the shovel…
Karl.A
James
February 2014
Speaking of stealing ideas - I’ve got to add a chain to my welding cart ! Looks great. And I love the wrench holding the window detail from the Duluth thread. Its always great when wrench and hammer castings (my favourites) are showcased.
Karl.A
February 2014
Spent the last couple of ‘work’ sessions building the six pole shed.
Next will be to tarpaper the roof then it’s on to the diorama base…
Karl.A
KKarns
February 2014
Karl, well done as always! I love the truss construction and overall feel of that shed and of course can’t wait to see you work your “magic” with the dio as it comes together. Ken
shay987
February 2014
Very nice !!!
srankin6
February 2014
looking good Karl!
Karl.A
February 2014
Thanks for the comments guys,
modeling motivation is low hence the slow progress. A few more progress posts and a
few more replies will hopefully get me back in the mood.
Time to paint the tarpaper and walk around the yard drinking coffee… till later.
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Thanks Karl. Looking good.
KKarns
February 2014
Karl…I hear ya…that’s one of the great things about this forum and SWSM…we motivate each other to kick it up and do our best work. When I get unmotivated, I pull out an
un-started SWSM kit, look through it, scan the manual, look at the castings, check out the SWSM web-site/forum, read through a few of the great builds you guys post, and bingo..I’m ready to go again! Your energy and modeling skill and productivity far and away exceeds what most of us can ever hope to accomplish so go ahead and take a 15 minute break..then get back to it! Ken
ironmountainlumber
February 2014
Hi Karl,
Fantastic job! Ditto on Kens comments above. I don’t know if you realize this but you are a great inspiration to us fellow modelers. I certainly have learned a ton from you and everyone else here. I am always looking to see what you are up to here on this forum and the Railroad Line forum. Always creative and supportive. So get to it! I can’t wait to see this done and really want to see one of your builds in person someday!
Jim
James
February 2014
There’s nothing wrong with walking around drinking coffee (if that’s what you’re doing instead)! Alas, my motivation is high but I have no time, which is why I like to live vicariously through other’s builds. I lamed out on doing the tar paper roof on the shed. It is the only thing which I’m really nervous about doing now - tar paper roofs. So show us how it’s done!
Re: motivation - there’s a line from a song “how will I know I miss you if you won’t go away”! Sometimes we all need a break from the things and people we love!
ETinBH
February 2014
sweet
Karl.A
February 2014
Thank you gentlemen, great to read your thoughts and responses…
Yes, I know, I’ll be changing out the hoses for something smaller at some point in the future.
Karl.A
admin
February 2014
love it…
Coors2u
February 2014
Karl, you ever think about printing out a gauge and putting a piece of acetate over to look like the real gauges. Tanks look great as they are. Just throwing out an idea.
Karl.A
February 2014
Thanks for the kind words guys.
Yep I thought about printing out the gauges when I was doing them on the horizontal boilers. A few things stopped me from persuing it too far. Print resolution being one, those things are tiny, about 1/8" diameter, Then there would be the problem of cutting out those tiny circles perfectly to sit within the rim. Also the paper thickness. Cutting a perfect clear edge that small in acetate would also be a problem. I could make a punch out of some brass tubing for the circle cutting but the tolerences are so minute to get the right size.
The compromise I came up with was the painted face. Incidentally the face also has a tiny drop of epoxy over the top of the gauge which gives it a slightly raised ‘glass-faced’ look which doesn’t show in the previous pictures.
Hard to tell with the chalk on top, noticeable in person though, just.
Scary big…
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2014
Not much to it James, a little practice and taking a little time is all you need.
You could cut a piece of card the same size as the roof and use some printer paper painted black to practice with. That way you can lay it over the real roof to see how it looks and try a few different things out before you work on the roof proper.
So here we go…
Tar paper sheet material sprayed black (both sides) and then cut into strips. I have always torn mine instead of cut, I just like the rougher edged look. I use a grey or black felt tip pen to colour the white edges.
I’ll tear some pieces to make it look more run down for this roof, again colouring the edges. Here I have laid them out while I am moving them around into a position I like.
Once happy I glue the pieces down. Make sure your fingers are clean of glue, any glue fingerprints will not come off !! If you do get some glue on the top side of the paper throw it away and get another piece.
Let the one side dry and then flip it over. Then trim the edges to about 1/8" overhang. Using a toothpick I apply glue to the overhang. Not so much that it’s going to ooze out, just enough to stay wet for about a minute.
Leave the glue for about 30seconds, I find this softens the paper and allows for a cleaner easier fold. Fold the edge over and under and I then use a scrap piece of wood to clamp it evenly in place for a couple of minutes.
Work around the roof in the same manner for all edges.
Repeat the process for both sides and then add the cap.
I added some chalk shadows around the torn edges to make them look a little more worn from exposure. Nail holes added along the exposed edge of the lower tarpaper and also along the far right of the subroof where it was nailed to the rafter.
When Brett introduced me to the use of chalks I bought a cheap set of make-up brushes. These brushes work great for roofs.
I fade all of the roof with a dusting of grey to get rid of the harsh black with the wide soft brush.
Using the smaller brushes streaks are then added and blended with a lighter tone and the odd darker patch.
The large brush is then used again to blend everything together and get rid of any harsh lines.
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Awesome…you know all the spouses out there will now have to hide their make-up tools LOL.
Coors2u
February 2014
As always great work. I see what you mean with the drop of epoxy. My wife makes fun of me for always looking thru the makeup brush section in stores.
JohnM
February 2014 edited February 2014
Karl,
The shed looks great. As a matter of fact, earlier, looking at the roof planking makes me wonder if my unlimited supply of Starbucks wood coffee stir sticks would be useful from time to time. Once wire brushed and stained/chalked, does the wood quality count for much? Please comment.
You look really motivated now . . .
Respectfully,
John
srankin6
February 2014
hmmmm…make up brushes? I think I know where I can lay my hands on a few…helps having 5 daughters plus my wife…if you don’t hear from me again you know I got caught.
thanks for another great tip and Karl the roof looks great!
Scott
Karl.A
March 2014
Thanks for the comments guys, great to read them.
I’m working on the oil platform now so hopefully an update later today.
Karl.A
Jerry
March 2014 edited March 2014
And your face if your so inclined.
Outside of that your work is always top notch!!
Jerry
ironmountainlumber
March 2014
The tarpapered roof looks fantastic and thank you for the explanation and pictures on how you do this. I really like the welding mask too!
Jim
Karl.A
March 2014
Thanks Jerry and Jim, appreciate your comments.
Karl.A
Karl.A
March 2014
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
March 2014
Great as always Karl!
captsully18
March 2014
Karl, really enjoying this build. Really want to build this kit, but since it is out of production that poses a problem. Although, I have found one on e-bay and am biding on it. Hopefully I will get it. Of course this build, Brett’s handbook, the other builds will be my “bible” for it. Keep at it. Anxious to see the finished product.
Dave
Coors2u
March 2014
Karl, the tools look amazing. How about a close up of those.
Karl.A
March 2014 edited March 2014
Thanks for the comments guys, a nice little boost for me.
Dave, I originally started this back in 2011 so I’m also anxious to see it finished…
Coors, the tools have only been blackened and a base coat of paint on the handles so far, but I’ll take a quick pic tomorrow for you. As usual, Brett’s castings are so good that they look amazing at ‘step 1’.
Karl.A
James
March 2014
Thanks for the blow by blow on the tar paper roof. I wish I had done that on the 6 pole shed in retrospect. Oh well, I’m sure there will be other tarpaper roofs in the future. The valve handles are great on the tanks - never thought of that.
JohnM
March 2014
Karl, it looks like you are close to putting this all on a base.
Karl.A
March 2014
Indeed John!!
Actually, it has all been on a base (painted brown and ties glued down) for about three weeks, well, since my last update. I’m still finding it hard to make that ‘final push’ and in reality it’s only a two day push.
I need to go back and read the “Dirt, Details and Dioramas” thread to remind myself of a few things and ultimately how easy/quick it is to finish off. Keep nagging at me 'cause until this ones finished I’m not pulling anything else off the shelf !!
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2014
OK Karl, you’ve got until 12:00 noon on the 24th of this month (over a week) to post your final pics of this thing. If not, we’re comin over there! How’s that for nagging?
The open shed roof looks fantastic! Ken
Karl.A
March 2014
The doors open and there’s a beer in the fridge for you Ken…
Seems like a fair deadline to me, thanks for the kind words, and the ‘push’.
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2014
Karl, I’d only come that far for several in the fridge AND a steak on the grill!
You get yours done in a week and I’ll follow with mine the week after…
Ken
PaulSmulders
March 2014
Karl, your work is inspiring and I find your “tips 'n techniques” as well a the pic’s very usefull.
Paul
KKarns
March 2014
Karl,
What…no comment…afraid I’ll actually show up aren’t ya?
Karl.A
March 2014
Thanks Paul, I appreciate your kind words.
Several and a steak are within the realms of possibility Ken.
Karl.A
Ojaste
March 2014
Hi Karl,
I am glad to hear that I was not the only one ‘slightly’ unmotivated last month and how this forum members help you/us into the light.
As usual, your build here is exceptional.and makes want to model in O scale if i was not so invested in HO kits from Brett.
I like the tearing of the tar paper; have you ever thought of just tearing the raw unpainted paper and the spraying the pieces after? I think it could/would give better colour variations to the strips, especially if different tones of spray paint were used.
Marty
Wes
March 2014
Hi Karl
Its been such a treat to come back and see the brilliant work you have completed so far. Im loving this thread buddy. Keep it up.
ironmountainlumber
March 2014
Hi Karl,
How is the finishing work on the diorama going ? Everything you have done is exceptional on this build. Looking forward to seeing those superb final pictures you do on your builds. Always a real treat to see and helps all of us to be motivated to do some model building.
Jim
Karl.A
April 2014 edited April 2014
Thanks for the comments Marty, Wes and Jim.
I finally spent some time yesterday finishing off some things that I had been ‘putting off’…
Rafter tails are installed and I have finished work on the details except for some can labels to add.
With all the work done now I can start putting it all together, the base is prepped and everything is ready to go down.
As usual there sure is a bunch of stuff in Brett’s box, ..
Added some of the smaller details to the half empty benches as per instruction
and following the pics in the manual.
Having these individual small items separate from the main casting is an incredible
way of modeling these items. Not only because of the versatility this gives you but the
crispness and realism in the positioning of the items just cant be matched with everything cast in place.
Another ground breaking innovation in detail modelling from Brett. Just superb.
Close up of the tools for Coors2u. These have just been blackened and buffed as per the technique created by Brett. The handles have been painted a wood colour. They will get dirtied up with chalk as I place them.
Karl.A
Jerry
April 2014
Beautiful job on those castings Karl. And the shack is pretty dam good to.
Jerry
JohnM
April 2014
Karl, that is fantastic. I really notice the cutting edges on the axes - wow!
Respectfully,
John
KKarns
April 2014 edited April 2014
Karl, excellante my good man! love the shack, siding color and finish…perfect and the roof blends so nice…I see you pulled a fresh sock from your sock drawer..pre-stained and everything…Ken
Karl.A
April 2014
Thanks very much for your comments Jerry, John and Ken, I appreciate them.
Dirt work tomorrow I’m thinking…
Karl.A
Coors2u
April 2014
Fabulous work Karl. The tools look great. I had to take a second look at some of the crates they looked so much like wood.
Dustin
Coors2u
April 2014
Also noticed the wrench propping the window open is a great touch.
LSNRwyAl
April 2014
Love it Karl. great work and inspiration to us all.
Karl.A
April 2014 edited April 2014
Thanks for the comments Dustin and Alan, great to have you along.
This is the bare bench that you would receive in the kit. (The one in the kit however would be a tinted resin, this is Bretts yellow casting master).
The genius and beauty of having the details produced like this is the flexibility and individuality it gives each modeler. Not only are the smaller items much easier to paint separately but each modeler can use them to their own taste.
A highly cluttered and detailed work area or a more clean and tidy look with just a few details placed.
My own workshop/garage is constantly cluttered with tools, cans, scraps left over from the last project… etc. and that’s the way I like to model, high detail.
Brett has again taken a giant leap in the way details are produced and provided to the modeler, opening the door even wider for the modelers creativity. A perfect balance of cast-in-place and individual items is fantastic to work with.
I added 14 individual castings to my bench, (which is more than you get in most other kits, haha) I basically copied Bretts layout from the manual pics, so no creativity there from me.
Karl.A
BrianM
April 2014
Wow, Karl. This is all really impressive!
To me the way you have brought out small details and minute features on the separate components and on the main castings and then arranged everything to suit your taste clearly demonstrates the practical difference between modelling in HO and O scale that you, Brett and others talk about.
JohnM
April 2014
Karl, that is unbelievable!
John
LSNRwyAl
April 2014
Again Karl thank-you.
ironmountainlumber
April 2014 edited April 2014
The details are awesome and truely sets Brett’s kits apart from any one elses. Since you also built the lineside sheds in both HO and O scale are the tools a different size ? I have been really enjoying adding these type of details to the HO scale version.
Jim
Karl.A
April 2014
Thanks very much for your comments Brian, John, Alan and Jim. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Brian, this process is now well featured in Brett’s HO kits also. It’s not just the O scale guys that get all the fun. The excellence of the individual castings and the finishing techniques have transferred extremely well into the HO kits. Similar results are obtainable thanks to SW innovations.
Yes Jim the tools are different sizes and scale appropriate for each of the Lineside sheds. The theology and the techniques however are the same, this gives the modeler, regardless of scale the absolute best results from their model.
One of the goals when developing the HO lineside kit was to replicate as closely as possible it’s O scale ‘big brother’. Both in the level of detail and the finishes that could be achieved. Looking at the two model pictures side by side I think the goal was met.
So much so that these SWSM innovations and Brett’s term “O scale modeling in HO” are already trying to be copied.
Karl.A
Bill
April 2014
Glad to see you back at this one Karl. Casting work continues to be top notch and inspiring. Thanks for sharing that “casting free” bench photo. When Brett mentioned he was going to start shipping kits this way, I instantly got excited thinking about the new possibilities. I believe he said he felt he’d taken his current approach to castings as far as he could and this change would get us all to a new level. (I love how his gears are always turning!)
When you think about it, the process of making the castings forces the placement of the various parts into positions that are practical rather than plausible. Look at where you placed items 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. I’m not an expert, but I’d bet there’d be NO WAY to mass produce a casting like that and have the parts come out of the mold correctly more than 10% of the time–if at all. Yet, it’s that kind of positioning that you have there that I think elevates the believability factor by leaps and bounds. The clutter looks accumulated rather than positioned.
Almost forgot…that vice paint job is spot on. The Old Minion would be proud!
BrianM
April 2014
Karl: thank you very much for the insight into the more recent HO kits conforming to the methods/concepts used in the O scale kit production. I never had reason nor the opportunity to compare similar SW kits from the two scales and consequently did not realize how literal Brett’s term “O scale modeling in HO” has become. Great for us all in HO!
Karl.A
August 2017 edited August 2017
Well here it is again… seems like every three years I revive this thread, started in 2011, revived in 2014, and back again in 2017…
And now, my model/diorama is back on the work bench, details are lined up ready to be planted, the desk is cleared and I’m finding my tools,
Incidentally, I re-read the entire thread to remind myself of what I was supposed to be doing , and where I was up to, so,
if you haven’t seen this thread before I recommend you go back to page one too…
It was a group build with several great models being shown by several great modellers,
Techniques and tips flowed and some fantastic finished photos are featured.
For now, I’ll leave you to peruse the past while I get ready for the next stage of finishing this great SWSM kit.
Should be build update pics tomorrow…
Karl.A
Karl.A
August 2017
Well, a day late, but hey, who’s counting…
Not much of a great update but progress none the less.
Decking glued down and structure in place (not glued) and positioning some of the details on the porch.
Also some of the details glued down under/around the shed… however…
I’m not really liking those lime green bottles anymore, apparently I did 3 years ago and they are prototypical, but, now they are in place, they just aren’t cutting it, so I’ll pull them up tomorrow, strip them and repaint them, no biggie.
Six pole shed only placed in position to see the way things are looking so far.
Karl.A
admin
August 2017
It is awesome to see this old beauty come off that unfinished shelf and see some freshening up. I really love the ripped tarpaper roof on the shed. so nice…
KKarns
August 2017
I’m with Brett, that roof and worn tar paper is terrific. Great to see this piece come off the shelf and get some attention. Details are signature Karl quality!
Karl.A
August 2017 edited August 2017
Thanks Brett and Ken, I’m also pleased to see this great kit come off the shelf and proceed. It may be sporadic as I’m in and out of town right now, but its great to be at the bench when I can.
I keep going back through the pages of this thread to Brian Browns (BrownBr) pictures of his diorama/model (bottom of page 4) and that amazing look at the front of his structure is what I want for mine, hopefully I’ll get a similar ‘feel’.
More later,
Karl.A
nextceo
August 2017
I personally like the castings…the tanks look great. Hey, what material did you use for the shingles and how did you paint/weather them. I’m assuming chalk…
Karl.A
August 2017 edited August 2017
Thanks Alan, I’m happy with the castings as a whole, just the lime green tanks need to go, they are even more ‘garish’ in person…
The shingles were made from the strip wood provided in the kit, they were weathered and then coloured with C&A as the instructions describe. The usual way.
The only variation from the manual was that I ‘snapped’ the shingles to length instead of cutting them, this process is described earlier in the thread here…
Also, unhappy with my original colouring it was adjusted as described in the same post with chalk numbers included, and the reasons.
Thanks for your post, more later.
Karl.A
Joel
August 2017
Karl,
Glad you are back at. Motivating me to start a new SierraWest kit. I look forward to your updates. Love both roofs. Looking forward to following along (again).
brownbr
August 2017
Nice to see you back at it. It looks really good. I always enjoy your attention to the smallest details like the wrench propping the window open.
Wes
August 2017
Hey Karl
Nice to see you posting again buddy. Looking forward to learning some more from your wonderful builds.
Karl.A
August 2017
Thanks Wes. Glad you get something from my builds. More updates when I get back home.
Karl. A
Karl.AKarl.A
August 2017 73.2.225.186
Well, I reckon that should be enough for the scene… and if not, well, my story is that the sawmill just picked up their weekly delivery 'cos I’m not chopping anymore wood !!
Karl.A
admin
August 2017 68.185.203.223
Uhmmm, yeah, I think that’ll do it!
KCSTrains
August 2017 Karl, I’m going to need a bunch of split wood for my HO Woodcutter’s Shack. Why don’t you convert that gadget to HO and send me a cord or two!!!
Wes
September 2017
Should be enough. Just!!!
KKarns
September 2017
I’m ordering a cord of 1:87…
Karl.A
September 2017
Well despite vowing I wouldn’t be chopping anymore scale firewood (not even for Ken)…
Unfortunately it turned out that everything I had chopped was 1/35 and not 1/48.
I was faced with the decision of scratchbuilding a 1/35 version of the shack to match all the wood, or, chopping more wood…
It was a close call, but, I opted to chop even more wood, but this time try and get it right.
Been out of town working for a few weeks hence the delay, but today, back at home, I got to work on the wood chopping.
With a new batch of wood chopped and ready to go I started applying the basic scenery layers… tonal variations first.
Then base layer of ground up bark, wood chippings, and then started building the wood piles and laying out the scene.
This will have to dry and lighten up before I can do finish scenery and detailing in this area at the front, so I’ll possibly do some work on the shed area this evening while I’m waiting.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2017
Great lesson in woodology! Love the cut log with the saw shavings in place…
Karl.A
September 2017
Well noticed Ken, thank you.
A large saw will appear leaning against the raised log close to the last cut at some point soon.
Karl.A
Bill
September 2017
I still marvel at the shake shingles on the roof. The texture and sun-bleached gray are spot on. Im also glad to see you incorporating figures as well.
Joel
September 2017
Well worth the rechopping. Coming together beautifully.
trains4ms
September 2017
I noticed the logs on the left too, with the saw dust on the ground, really nice and very realistic. Your new chopped wood is perfect too.
Mike S.
Karl.A
September 2017
Thanks Bill, yep, figures tend to appear and disappear through out my build threads, as you may have noticed in the past…
I generally only use them for scaling an overall ‘feel’ in an area, detail placement, and setting up scenes, and then they head home.
These two may hang around for a while, but they’ll need a repaint first, who knows.
Thanks Joel and Mike, I’m much happier with it now, things seem to be falling easier into place also.
Did quite a lot of work on the shed area, though I know it doesn’t look like anything too different to most, but, it was a hurdle.
Also a little work elsewhere to help with the flow…
And that’s where I’m leaving it for tonight, everything will be dry in morning and reviewed with fresh eyes.
This woodcutter is done for the night !!
Karl.A
Wes
September 2017
Still one of my favourite kits Karl, simply because it was my first Sierra West kit.
Loving how yours is coming together.
nextceo
September 2017
I like all the debris between the railroad ties…nice modeling.
Mike Engler
September 2017
Funny how an unfinished kit will age and weather like a fine whisky- the three years, and then three more years, have really given this one some character. I’m thinking don’t redo those green bottles until we see how they stack up with the rest of the details. You are really getting the hang of this.
Karl.A
September 2017
Thanks Mike, I feel like I’m getting a grip on it,
however, as you’ll notice from my last post the green bottles have already been re-done.
Things not really noticeable but also done last night were…, the shed was moved back 1/2", despite the details all glued in place which was preventing this and causing me a stalling point.
So, everything was loosened with alcohol and the glue dissolved… the bench with oil tank was moved back 1", the stock support was removed, the silver oil bottles were removed, the green bottles were removed/stripped/repainted/re-weathered, the scenery was re-done and re-blended back to a base layer and certain things were glued back in their new places.
Now I have backtracked a few things, I can move forwards.
Karl.A
Karl.A
January 2021 edited January 2021
Thought I had taken some finished pics but I cant find them, guess I’ll take some tomorrow.
Here’s a few of the later November progress shots for now.
KCSTrains
January 2021
Karl,
Good to have you back. Your work is always so awesome. I would love to see more picture. Phil
Karl.A
January 2021
Thanks Phil, I’ll take some tomorrow and post them.
Robert.G
January 2021
Indeed we would like some more of that great build. Makes me think back when I did mine. A great kit, but as you said, they are all great !!!
Karl.A
January 2021
KCSTrains
January 2021
Karl, thanks for posting. Your work and weathering is always subtle and not overdone. It just goes to say that less is more. Lots of color (but not too much) and contrasts in these pictures. Well done. Phil
brownbr
January 2021
Looks like that guy needs to stop choppin wood and start laying rail.
Karl.A
January 2021 edited January 2021
brownbr said:
Looks like that guy needs to stop choppin wood and start laying rail.
Joel
January 2021
Stunning work as always Karl. Just love the haphazard wood pile and the acetylene tanks.
brownbr
January 2021
That’s more like it.
TomMich
January 2021
Glad to see you are back at it. Love seeing your work! It’s always inspirational!
Karl.A
January 2021
Thanks Joel and Tom, means alot to me to read you.
Bill
January 2021
Great little mini-scene with the rail being laid (outstanding track-work as well)
MuddyCreekRR
January 2021
The guy hold that rail must be a beast…even if it’s code 55
Karl.A
January 2021
Code 100, no wimps on my dios.
He’s gone back to chopping wood, that was just a temporary setup to appease Bryan.
MuddyCreekRR
January 2021
I worked a derailment a few years back with the fire department…had to move a 5 foot section of rail after we cut it with a torch…needless to say…I did not do it alone…
Jerry
January 2021
Perfect!!
Jerry
SteveCuster
January 2021
Looks great Karl! Great to see some of your work again.
AlexR
January 2021
Karl, thanks for taking a d posting these additional photos. They’re wonderful.