This thread was started in January, 2017
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017 in HO Scale Builds
After much thought and contemplation I have decided that the BlueSky Company Warehouse will be my next build.
The things that draw me to BlueSky, other than the wonderful design and story here, are the wonderful modelers that have worked up BlueSky such as Brian Nolan, Mike Chambers, Dave Revelia, Karl Allison, Kevin O’Neill (Karl and Kevin had a big part in the O Scale Pilot Model I believe). These are just the ones I know of as I’m sure there are many more. Its also, as everyone knows, Brett’s first SWSM Kit. I think it would be awesome to build this early kit incorporating the newer techniques that Brett has developed since BlueSky. In addition, I feel it a tribute to Brett and SierraWest Scale Models to bring this classic kit to life once again.
Unlike an official forum build like O’Neills, I will not be posting each and every step as I work through this wonderful kit. Rather I’ll post progress photos and field questions and comments, if any, as I move along. My progress here is predicted to be slow as I am focusing my attention on the wood clinic and a few other projects. I will likely incorporate some features of the O Scale version and will point those out as they materialize. Would enjoy hearing from those that have built BlueSky and look forward to working through this build.
Brett’s first kit and his famous green box that started the SierraWest Scale Model legacy…
Comments
CarlRowe
January 2017
Wow. Having fun on the wood weathering thread. I’ll be following this closely as well. I don’t think I knew this was the first kit. I’m a latecomer to the SW kits, but so glad I found them.
KKarns
January 2017
Glad you’re finding the wood clinic useful, thanks. Right Carl, this was Brett’s first kit with its debut in 1995. So I have built Brett’s latest Kit, O’Neills Fabrication, and now embarking on his first…how cool is that?
SteveCuster
January 2017
I’ll be following along Ken. Definitely a favorite kit of mine.
KKarns
January 2017
Glad to hear that Steve, did you build BlueSky or just love the look like I do?
I’m holding it right now Ed! Thanks for your support Ed and aim to do this kit justice as I feel every SWSM kit deserves, and that is our best efforts.
KKarns
January 2017
Oh my…a deadline…? I’d love to have it done by then, so we’ll see what kind of progress I’m able to make. I’d like to make it a goal rather than a deadline…that sounds better doesn’t it. I might bring it regardless as I’d love to see builds even if they aren’t done. Stimulates much conversation and many good suggestions.
SteveCuster
January 2017
I’ve never built it Ken but it’s always been on my wish list. I’ve built Foss Landing, The Shipyard and my current progress on Quincy/O’Neills. I have a Scotia Supply in the queue as well. I’d really like to build it in O scale but I’m avoiding that urge until I finish my layout.
KCSTrains
January 2017
Ken, take your time on this kit. You will be a serious “best in show” contender with O’Neills. I’ll be following along.
KKarns
January 2017
I think my internal clutch slips anyway…even though I tell myself I need to get more done in a shorter period of time…I seem to never get any faster! I write it off to…I love to work on this stuff so I unconsciously savor the moments. Appreciate your vote of confidence on O’Neills, we’ll see…not sure yet what I’m going to do there yet.
CarlRowe
January 2017
KKarns said:
I think my internal clutch slips anyway…
I unconsciously savor the moments.
Perfect statement. It shows in the work you do. Very “mindful” to unconsciously savor.
Carl
KKarns
January 2017
Well Carl at times I get a bit philosophical about this stuff as anyone who loves what they are doing should…I think I enjoy and take so much time and energy working on the wood for my structures from the realization that this will likely be the one and only time I will build this particular wall for this particular SierraWest structure for this particular SierraWest Kit. Heavy stuff…but it’s true. So, I just completed the front wall for the main Barn for BlueSky. In all probability, that will be the last time I ever do that! So why not take the time and effort to make it as nice as I possibly can…weather its good or not I feel good about the work I put into it. Geesh…on and on…
CarlRowe
January 2017
Yep… perfect
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks for your response Carl. Funny…whenever I get talking like this things go profoundly quite! I think everyone is wondering…is Ken OK?
CarlRowe
January 2017
You seem to be on the same wave length as I am. Hmmmmm, maybe no one else is okay. As a musician attention to detail is what keeps you hired. It only follows that attention to detail while modeling will keep not only your interest but will interest others. The BlueSky you build will reflect your passion (or lack of passion). Might as well have a philosophical bent about it.
KKarns
January 2017
Oh BlueSky is going to be one hell of a build! But I say that about all the projects I start. Glad you don’t find my sentiments goofy or racked with uncontrolled dribble. Also appreciate someone being on the same page…see what I mean about the posts…it’s just you and I Carl…remember, never, ever, leave your wing man.
Geezerbill
January 2017
Ken, I’m here…kind of. Humongous neck headache all day since I woke up so I’ll be back with something later.
Geezerbill
KKarns
January 2017
Sorry to hear that Bill. Look forward to it.
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken
I was thinking about doing BlueSky along with you I was just wondering do you and I have the same run.
Then I thought about Eureka Springs Engine House still trying to decide what to do, Then there the Logging Camp Essentials would kick start my layout with the mill.
Help me decide.
Thank’s Carl
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
Mine is an early kit with all resin castings. Aint it fun deciding! Well I think you doing BlueSky along with me would be very cool. As I eluded to, my posts may be infrequent so between the two of us maybe we could keep folks interested. It would also be fun to see how each us will work this thing up. However, you have priority issues to sort out as well so just let me know what you decide…I vote for BlueSky…
CarlRowe
January 2017
engine909 said:
Carl, Ken already picked his color, you may have to go with pink. Sorry.
ed
poifect
CarlLaskey
January 2017
I am into Clear Coat.
Carl
CarlRowe
January 2017
(classical)
Wes
January 2017
I built the O scale version of this Ken and loved it. Going to follow this with great interest.
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Ed, should be fun.
Wes, I was meaning to ask you about that. Thought I may have seen your build of the O Scale BlueSky somewhere before, but before I decided to work up my HO version. message me about where you posted your build…glad you’ll be following.
Wes
January 2017 edited January 2017
Ken this is as far as I got before the diorama got trashed during a move by the removal idiots. All I have left are the castings and the tractors. The rest had to be dumped.
Im so bummed I never got to finish. If the rand dollar rate ever gets better, id love to get my hands on another.
brownbr
January 2017
What a heartbreaking loss. It was looking so good.
KKarns
January 2017
Wes, great build here, your corrugated looks wonderfully done. Color tines of the barn and shed a great…just really like what you did with it. Such a shame to have it destroyed like that. Hope you received compensation for the loss. Thanks for taking the time to post these pictures.
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
I am wrapping up the Wood Clinic so attention now is focused on BlueSky. I have done a good bit of research on BlueSky through scouring the wonderful O Scale pilot model featured on the web-site, other builds I have come across through internet searches, a great set of pictures of a terrific O Scale build by Wes, a few discussions with Brett, and Brett’s first beautiful full page, full color, right hand page ad in the December 1995 issue of Model Railroader magazine. I searched out the issue and purchased a copy just to have that ad. In fact, I am looking for another issue so I can cut out and frame that ad to go along with my finished diorama of BlueSky!
First step in any classic or otherwise SierraWest Scale Model kit is to open the box and see what we’ve got!
After the protective wrapping was removed the box was opened…shot of the paper packing still in its original position…
I was first greeted by the holy grail of each SWSM kit…the bible…oop sorry…manual. This was ceremoniously removed and carefully set aside for attention later. The box must be inventoried for completeness being purchased on the secondary market as there is always that chance something was removed and not put back in the box…a risk worth taking on these classic kits.
With the manual safely set aside the remainder of the contents are ready for inspection.
Ah…ha…gotcha! thought I’d go right for the casting didn’t ya? Remember I love working with the wood so that’s the first order of business. Bags 1-10 of clean, sorted, labeled, and actually some pre-cut stripwood and scribed siding.
OK…now the castings. In discussing a bit of the history of BlueSky with Brett, he explained that it was quite the event in the modeling world to have a craftsman kit with all resin castings. Modelers were a bit jaded by the poor quality resin castings up to this point. However, Brett set the standard for resin castings with BlueSky and never looked back!
As I work through this build I will feature some of the individual castings. So, on we go to step number 2…as follows…
That’s right…you knew step 2 already…
SteveCuster
January 2017
Definitely one of the best parts of a build Ken. Sorting out all those great details and seeing what cool things Brett came up with for the kit. I was a bit apprehensive about the resin castings when I first saw a Sierra West kit but now I know it’s the best medium for details. Those heavy lead castings always want to fall off the side of a building or chip and show the metal when they simulate wood.
KKarns
January 2017
I agree Steve, I spend a great deal of time on this phase of the build as you mention.
Your point is well taken and one of the reasons I decided to build Brett’s first kit. As you know, I just completed his newest kit, O’Neills Fabrication and look forward to building this classic kit, taking into account the knowledge of the newer techniques. Brett’s casting philosophy has evolved over the years to that of a finely tuned machine! I’ll tell you though, those resin castings from 1995 are as crisp and clean as they can be. Back to that wall that only has 7 boards on it over 3 nights work! You’ll see why later on…
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
The BlueSky kit in HO/HOn3 boasts 5 main structural components/themes…there’s the Office and Dry Goods, Cut-Stone Cook House, Old Shed, and the original Shelby’s Barn. The vertical Barn siding is constructed over card stock templates, and that’s where I started the build. Following much angst, I decided on a rather darker color barn siding than has been traditionally done with this build. The late Mike Chambers did a rather dark siding for his work up of BlueSky.
I started with the front of the barn and after detailing my stripwood, began laying out the wall. The entire bottom of the front wall is covered by a loading dock so my treatment of the board ends along the bottom front are minimally detailed (i.e. won’t show).
The barn front wall with my stripwood “hung” about half way. I also started the left barn wall and the loft rear as shown. Brett utilized the ingenious “stripwood traps” from his very first kit here that provide a near perfect corner where two walls meet.
The Barn is the original structure of the BlueSky Company Warehouse complex. As such, I wanted the barn to be fairly weathered. Not beaten down just well worn and minimal repairs. Since Brett sold this kit, albeit 22 odd years ago, it’s mine now! As a result I decided I wanted some heavily weathered areas mostly in the corners where a gutterless roof would allow water and rot to take hold. But only at the bottom, the rest of the structure will be in reasonably good shape. I love the look of rotten damaged boards near the ground with the original framing peeking through. You know the look I’m sure. The stripwood over card stock makes this a bit of a challenge. So, I carefully laid out my side wall and at the corner cut out a chunk of the card stock and added a section of framing (see figure 1). This would allow me to detail the board ends and allow the simulated wall framing to show through.
(figure 1) Note the stripwood framing spliced into where a piece of the card stock template was carefully removed.
I then proceeded to layout my detailed strip wood for this corner (figure 2). I will have something similar in a couple other corners but not as significant as this one. Although it appears large…I guess…it is not in a highly visible area and will be one of those nifty details that you have to look for!
(figure 2)
Note the framing peeking through the siding. The black paint along the bottom edge serves to hide the card stock template where my detailed board ends may gap, have small missing pieces, etc..
More later…
KKarns
January 2017
Got more done this evening than I thought…
Here is the second corner of the Barn with the weathered corner area with the framing. Not quite as extensive as the other.
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken Do you think that the sill plate would be a bit thicker with a building of this size sitting on it, Just a thought.
Carl
Wes
January 2017
The siding is spot on Ken. Te corners are a great spot for mice to enter the warm barn in winter.
SteveCuster
January 2017
That siding looks fantastic Ken. I love the faux framing idea very cool detail.
KCSTrains
January 2017
Ken, what a great and ingenious idea. I really like it. Thanks for the explanation. After your clinic, I understand your approach. Phil
KKarns
January 2017
Carl, My sill is a scale 4 inches thick. I believe the thickness of the sill would depend on what the sill sits on. If its a concrete footer or slab 4 inches is more than adequate. If its sitting on individual pillars not so much. I’m no expert that’s for sure. I wasn’t too concerned about getting that technical with it anyway…the framing boards are only scale 2x4s as I wanted the stripwood the same thickness as the card stock so it can have the wall flat level on my bench for further detailing.
That said, I may put some horizontal wall boards on the inside of the open “holes” after my wall is up so it doesn’t have that see through appearance. This is a converted barn so plausible it could have some wall boards up on the inside.
Thanks for the note as it got me thinking harder about foundations and I came up with a possible cool detail I’m going to try at one of the corners later once the diorama base is started.
Hey Wes, glad you like the siding as you have a good eye for detail.
Appreciate that Steve and I was happy how that detail turned out. I need to keep it subtile as it’s easy to get carried away. I will also have the scenic work dulling down the starkness of the damaged area (i.e. weeds, rocks, clutter, etc.). Also, I mentioned in my response to Carl, that I may add some interior horizontal boards behind these areas so to alleviate the see through appearance and give the look that the interior has a finished wall up.
Thanks Phil. It does ramp up the detail possibilities for a card stock backed
board-on-board wall. Have some other nifty little details for these walls yet to come. My approach?..grungy!..of course you knew that.
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken,I was thinking that a stone foundation would have been used do to the era of the barn so a eight by eight could have been used. Here in New England we have a lot of old barns with all kinds of sill plates some are massive and some not.Just a thought of what I have seen over the years.
Carl.
KKarns
January 2017
Totally agree and appreciate the insight. The era here I’m planning is early 20th century, so maybe 1920s ish.
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
Featured here is another nifty little addition I made to the Barn Loft rear wall. I decided to add a eave vent to the back wall. Once I confirmed the vent size I cut out the appropriate opening in the card stock template. I finished boarding over the entire wall covering the cut out section. I then carefully cut the siding boards per the opening. A stripwood frame was made and styrene strips were cut painted and rusted and then glued in at an angle for the vent slats. I then set the finished vent into the opening flush with the siding. Finished off the trim from painted and rusted copy paper and added the faint screw detail consisting of just pressing my pointed awl into the paper just a bit.
Gives the wall just a little added zip to it but maintains a purposeful appearance.
shot to illustrate the scale here…
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken that is a great detail keep up the good work.
Carl
MitchN
January 2017
Dr. Grunge,
Nice addition with that vent. Well executed.
Mitch
Bill
January 2017
Ken,
I have a new appreciation for your work and methods. Right on the heels of your wood clinic, I’m getting new insight along with new ideas. This is what it’s all about!
Thanks!
brownbr
January 2017
Nice. Bonus points for creativity.
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
Thanks Carl…any more thought to joining me in a BlueSky build? As slow as I go you can catch up anytime!
Down with that Ed…thanks for the thoughts and analogy.
Hey Mitch…appreciate that. I think it does add a bit of interest to that wall and works well with the overall theme of the structure.
Bill…how are you my man?..the wood clinic actually got me fired up to get some work done on BlueSky. We have a duty and desire to motivate each other to do our best work and I get that from all you guys…you’re exactly right…that’s what it’s all about.
Thanks Bryan, I was really happy with how it went from an idea to the finished product! I have many more that fizzle once I actually try and execute the idea! I write them off as character builders and examples of what not to do.
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken I am having a very hard time getting motivated about anything. So with that being said I do not think that you will see anything from me.
Carl
KKarns
January 2017
Sorry to hear that Carl, but totally understand…and hope you follow along here. My father always use to tell me “you got to keep putting one foot in front of the other”
KCSTrains
January 2017
Ken, great innovation. Thanks for the explanation. Phil
KKarns
January 2017
Glad to hear from you Phil and appreciate the thoughts on the detail.
Geezerbill
January 2017
Jeez, what great modeling Ken with such small pieces. Wish I had that ability and dexterity. Enjoying your new build!
Geezerbill
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks much Bill. I always feel like I do a bunch of details that in the end won’t show much but enjoy the work and the many small details add up. Thanks for your thoughts I really appreciate it.
KCSTrains
January 2017
Ken, I just thought of a great plan. You are starting to really crank out “best in show” quality kits. I’m working hard to build a killer layout that will feature the best in Sierra West models. Just ship 'em on down to me. I’ll put them on the layout and take all the credit. How does that sound??? Phil
KKarns
January 2017
Yea!..OK…now you know, I can’t guarantee they will come through shipping unscathed…you may have to put a few things back together! Wonder if Brett ever did a drop test of any finished SWSMs…you know like they do phones and stuff. You be the first Phil…I think there was a compliment in there somewhere…thanks buddy!
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Elliot More had a ship it demo when you do not glue everything down Mike Engler and others were up all night to put it all back together at the Expo.
Carl
KKarns
January 2017
I heard about that!..would love to see some pictures and a play-by-play on how that went. Takes a good bit of nerve and finger crossing to send something like that in the mail…
KKarns
January 2017
Making good progress on BlueSky…at least my kind of progress which is slow and steady.
I took a deep breath and applied the Shelby’s Boat and Bait signage to the barn front wall. If you’re not familiar with the BlueSky history, the old barn was once the main facility for Shelby’s Boats and Baits but was subsequently bought by BlueSky to be used as their storage warehouse. So the old Shelby’s sign is designed to be well worn and weathered.
The sign was carefully applied then weathered. Can’t go too far with the weathering all at once as you can keep weathering, but you can’t bring it back if you go too far! I got it about where I wanted and am now finishing up the other walls and working on the barn doors in front.
CarlRowe
January 2017
Oh yeah that’s perfect.
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks my good man!..
mayhaw9999
January 2017
As Carl said “that’s perfect”!!! Exclamations mine!
David U
KCSTrains
January 2017
Ken, I’ here if you need me!!! Phil
SteveCuster
January 2017
That wall looks great Ken. The faded lettering, the wood color everything is perfect.
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks David, I was hoping for some feedback as I initially thought it was a bit dark but the more I do the more I like that look…
You got it Phil.
Appreciate that Steve, from one old dusty barn builder to another…
Bill
January 2017
I like that dark tone. It immediately implies cinders & soot. Lots of coal burning locos took their toll on a once pristine wood finish!
KKarns
January 2017
There ya go Bill…perfectly logical explanation for my wayward barn color choice! Actually if you do a search on “Old Barns” quite a few age and weather very dark. Working diligently on the doors for the barn. They are coming along nicely and should be posting those soon.
Thanks much for the note and support there Bill…
jpcohen
January 2017
I was lucky and purchased an early BlueSky kit last month on eBay for $350. I plan to build it, however it be many months down the road at the soonest, perhaps even next year. Only because my current list of kits already in my build queue. Too much fun ahead of me. But to find an unbuilt BS (with wood) is not easy these days, I had to secure it, even if it sits unbuilt for a while. I am watching this thread for ideas and expert findings that will be a great enhancement for my future build. enjoying it and the strip wood thread. THANKS.
KKarns
January 2017
JP…same here, I had a heck of a time finding BlueSky in HO/HOn3 but kept patient and finally snagged a good kit. I had mine for at least a couple years before starting my build here. I have lots go nifty details in store for this build so glad to hear you’ll be following along. Your welcome and keep in touch…
KKarns
January 2017
Finished the initial work on the main barn doors. I decided to go with wood doors as I wanted to detail them a bit different than the loft doors. I fashioned the doors from stripwood and then made some strap hinges from styrene strip and cut solder wire for bolt heads. I painted and rusted the hinges and glued on to the cross supports. I was going to use rivet heads for the hinge bolts but they appeared a bit big despite using the smallest ones I could get. They also looked to uniform. I found an image on a web search (see below) that had the bolt heads somewhat small and irregular, and that’s the look I wanted. I cut small disks from solder wire and glued those to my styrene strips. I also made up some handles. Once the doors are glued to the frame I will add the hinge and pin on the jab end. On to the loft doors…
Barn doors made from stripwood and strap hinges from styrene strip and solder wire bolt heads. Hinge pins to follow once installed.
nextceo
January 2017
Doors look amazing…can I buy some O scale doors from you?
Geezerbill
January 2017
They sure are amazing. I’ll take the second O scale batch.
Geezerbill
Bill
January 2017
Wow!!
CarlLaskey
January 2017
Ken.
Great job on the doors.
Carl
ironmountainlumber
January 2017
Hey Dr Grunge MOW, AES,
Ken, I decided to give you some more credentials to go along with the Dr. part. MOW stands for master of the wood and AES stands for and everything that is exceptionally small. I think there is no limitations in your creativity for sure. You certainly have earned those credentials after the excellent thread on detailing wood. You know I think your would detailing is exceptional after seeing your first build. THANKS for doing the wood detailing thread!
The wall looks great: weathered, old, some dry rot, and sooty. The stencilling is just right not too bright and looks weathered.
The door is really cool. I love the bolts. I agree commercial ones would be too large. They can overwelm everything. This is going to be a great build. I think that this another just outstanding design that Brett did right out of the gate.
Keep up the fantastic work as always. Keep those out of the box ideas coming!
Jim
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Alan, they look a whole lot better staged in the door opening but illustrates what I’m up to with the doors.
Glad you like em G-Bill…you know how boring it would be to build doors all day long!
Appreciate that Bill. The barn front wall is such a focal point of this build I am spending an appreciable amount of time on the detailing here.
Thanks Carl, close up they have a medieval look to them, which was beginning to annoy me, but not so much at scale and in the door opening, thank goodness…
Hey Jim…wondered where you’ve been keeping yourself! I’ll answer to anything…well, almost anything and the honorary credentials you gave me cracked me up. I thank you for your thoughts on the details. You nailed the issue with the commercial rivet heads, they were all you noticed and were just too big, the rest of the door was lost in the bolt heads! Brett definitely hit a home run here with his first kit that’s for sure. Always makes my day to hear from you and get your take on things…thanks Jim.
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
I owe those of you, and Brett, who have been following along with my BlueSky build an apology for the retched picture I took of the front wall of the barn. This is such a classic kit and that front wall is so iconic to the BlueSky build that it deserved a much better picture. That image was taken on an old concrete walk and likely gave those studying it a headache from the distracting background. I worked very hard on the wall and dropped the ball with the picture! So…below is a much improved image of the front wall so far…
Front wall of the converted Shelby’s Barn now the BlueSky Warehouse. Much detailing to come with the doors and loft hoist/pulley system.
In working up the walls of the barn, which is stripwood over card stock templates, I made a few additions to allow for some extra detailing. The inside of the barn is designed to not be visible. However, I wanted the illusion that the inside was a real working warehouse. One way I decided to accomplish this was provide the impression to the observer that the floor of both the main warehouse and loft extend into the interior. The manual recommends bracing the walls with 1/4 square wood which was provided in the kit and further illustrates just where and how to lay out the bracing, typical of Brett’s comprehensive manual instructions. I proceeded to layout the two horizontal braces in such a way that when stripwood was added on top of the brace wood it was just level with the opening which can bee seen through any open doors. I extended the wood “floor” a little more than 1/4". This will allow the doors to be set in various open positions and it will appear that the floor is complete throughout.
False floor designed to give the appearance of a fully floored interior when viewed through partially open doors.
CarlRowe
January 2017
Great idea
KCSTrains
January 2017
I agree. Another great idea from Ken. Phil
MitchN
January 2017
Dr. Grunge,
Solder wire for bolt heads, floors in place where viewers would not know it if they were missing. If an instructor were giving a test you would score over 100% because you go above and beyond in your work. Keep it up. Its always great to see your creativity.
Mitch
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Carl, always thinking of stuff as any good student of SWSMs would…
Appreciate that Phil, should look nifty with the doors open just a bit.
Thanks Mitch, I can wait to see what grade Brett gives me, he’s got a good reputation as a tough but fair professor and I have attended all his Craftsman University courses so hopefully he won’t be too hard on me!
KKarns
January 2017
Just finished up another detail that will be installed on the front wall of the barn. Brett designed the loft to have a hoist and pulley type system to haul material up to and through the loft doors. I decided to scratch build the pulley and hoist system from a picture I found on the web. I liked all the rusted and old metal which gave it a very purposeful but interesting look.
Here is the prototype that I referred to to build my version.
The pulley is from my junk box, brackets are painted and rusted paper with NBWs. Once installed I’ll run a rope or chain through the pulley and tie off at the loft. The beam will run through the wall above the loft doors.
KKarns
January 2017
CarlRowe
January 2017
Great retro-fit there. Would chain, rope, or perhaps cable (from the rigging shed) be most appropriate? How thick is the paper? Styrene in O scale?
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Carl, I’ll likely use rope as it will be easier to control and position and I would imagine that would have been the most likely material used in this case. Paper is 65lb.
KCSTrains
January 2017
Just when I thought you couldn’t amaze me any more, you come up with this. You really do have a command on to scratch build from general materials that you have available. Great job. Phil
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Phil. Love the little details.
KKarns
January 2017
The barn doors have been installed prior to assembling the barn structure which makes it nice to be able to position the doors until the epoxy sets…
The hole cut in the siding above the loft doors is the access for the pulley/hoist assembly.
detailed a simple bracket on the inside for those who may take a peek!
KKarns
January 2017
Right wall of the barn is finished. Previously I had modeled the wall with the back corner rotted with some wood missing representing water damage from water run off from the roof and water tank mounted on the roof. I added a cut out to show the wall framing sill. After completing the siding I went back and put in some horizontal boards on the inside to soften the large hole and give the illusion that the inside is framed and boarded.
Corner with wood damage and rot.
Finished wall with corner rotted area with horizontal boards installed on the “inside”.
KKarns
CarlRowe
January 2017
Looks great. Gotta love rot!
brownbr
January 2017
Well that’s nifty.
Joel
January 2017
Ken, you never fail to astound. Amazing hoist and beautiful rot.
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Carl…I think it looks much better with the interior boards. “Gotta love rot”…
I must admit, I do love it so..wasn’t General Patton quoted as saying something similar about war?
Hey Bryan..appreciate the thumbs up…
Gosh Joel…“beautiful rot”…that’s got to be one of the nicest things anyone has said to me…sniff, sniff… Thanks for your thoughts and I highly value your opinion and have always admired your modeling skills so I’m tickled to have you checking in.
admin
January 2017
Wow, you continue to raise the bar Ken! I am so impressed with the attention to small details. Have to keep telling myself you are modeling in HO Scale…
Joel
January 2017
Checking in? I am following avidly and learning tons. I plan on stealing all your ideas for my O scale version.
KKarns
January 2017
Well with that response Brett, my Sunday is going to end way better than it started! Thanks so much for your thoughts here. I have said this before but it’s worth repeating…you invest so much time and energy into research and production of the finest scale model kits available anywhere…period, and that motivates me, and I assume many others here as well, to do my/our best work. This is evident in the overall quality of the modeling here…well done guys.
Wes
January 2017
Hi Ken
Still following along and admiring your work. You doing a true Sierra West kit justice buddy. Love it.
KKarns
January 2017 edited January 2017
Hey Joel, good to hear there is some useful information here. The O scale version of course comes with laser cut framed walls for the barn which will make the damaged and rotted areas much easier to do.
Thanks Wes, always nice to have you along. Still feels awesome to be building Brett’s first kit! Appreciate the thoughts on treating it as it deserves…
SteveCuster
January 2017
That wall looks fantastic Ken, I love the color. The hinges look great also. Starting off strong with this one.
KKarns
January 2017
Thanks Steve, that first wall just sets the tone for the entire diorama and that’s one reason I started with the front wall… where all the action is!
nextceo
January 2017
“The O scale version of course comes with laser cut framed walls for the barn which will make the damaged and rotted areas much easier to do.”
Just another reason to switch over to O Scale…
MitchN
January 2017
Dr. Grunge,
Good looking crusty rust. It looks like its been exposed to the weather for 50 years.
Mitch
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks Mitch…just having a ball as usual mucking things up!
KKarns
February 2017 edited February 2017
The walls of the barn are all boarded and I’m now working on some additional details. Here is the right wall with the second story door staged in place. I really enjoy trying new things with each build. The door is a resin casting that is included in the kit along with three other doors and windows all resin. I wanted to try and do a paint peel effect rather than just a plain wood colored door and frame.
I first primed the door with SWSM/Reaper “Dirty Grey” 29835. When did the paint peel I wanted the “wood” underneath to appear old and aged. When this was dry I applied my white. When this was dry to the touch I picked and scraped the white to create the peeled effect. Then dusted with chalks and darkened the threshold with AI…
The holes to the right are for some exterior plumbing I’m working on.
Right barn wall with boarding complete and the second story door staged in place. The door is a really nicely detailed resin casting Brett includes in the kit. Need to install the “glass” yet…more later
KKarns
February 2017
Wes
February 2017
Perfection once again from Doctor grunge. That bottom right hand corner in the first pic is the bees knees. Love it.
KCSTrains
February 2017
Ken, I want to get this straight. Your first application of the grey was allowed to dry completely. However, your second application of white was allowed to dry to the touch so you could easily pick away parts of the white. Is that right? Did you completely cover the door with the white? Phil
admin
February 2017
Awesome texture, relief, details, and shadows. just like an old barn!
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks Wes, I liked the way that corner turned and to take it one step further the adjacent back wall has some damage in the same are so the rotted area extends “around the corner” I’ll illustrate this when the walls are together. The exterior plumbing will give additional cause for the rotted area.
Right Phil. The base coat was fully dry and the white was just dry to the touch so it was easy to scrape and “peel”. I still went down to the resin in many places but the follow-up with the darker chalks took care of that. The center sections of the paneled door were peeled but it look like too much white and too busy so I scraped most of it off as you can see and that looked much better to me.
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks much Brett. Please…I’m partial to “Grungy” old barn! Almost like having my name on it, should have printed GRUNGY’S on the front…
nextceo
February 2017
Best work yet. Thanks for sharing with us.
KCSTrains
February 2017
Thanks for the explanation Ken.
KKarns
February 2017
Appreciate that Alan, how’s your projects coming along?
You bet Phil…
KKarns
February 2017
More first time experiments with BlueSky. I decided to try some exterior plumbing. This area isn’t highly visible and can be toned down visually by scenic work etc…depending on how I like the look once it’s planted on the diorama. The straight vertical pipe will have a piece that will extend up through the edge of the roof and about a scale foot above the roof to act as the vent. This will be installed after the roof’s on. In addition the clean out access at the bottom will have a pipe disappearing into the ground. Have a few more details to finish here but the general idea is there. There will be a wet area in this corner giving credence to the rotted area. Not a plumber so don’t be overcritical of the routing just did what came to mind. The second floor would have sink, toilet, etc. gravity fed from the water tank on the roof. First floor just a sink/wash basin whatever.
admin
February 2017
that’s awesome! not oversized or clunky, perfect and tasteful. blends well with the wall and looks so natural - excellent!
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks Brett…I was concerned that it would be a bit overpowering but the stairs coming down and some scenic work it should blend in and look pretty good I think. A few boards and/or old scrap pipes or metal posts leaning up against it will soften the look.
nextceo
February 2017
I really like the pipes…where did you get them?
Alan
brownbr
February 2017
Nice touch
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks Alan, sent you a PM…
Appreciate that Bryan, it appears a bit busy to me but that back end of BlueSky has the stairs coming down partially in front of the plumbing and a bit of scenic work and clutter will blend that corner in nicely.
KKarns
February 2017
First clapboard wall for BlueSky to verify the color and general finish. Wanted a darker and dingy appearance to match the barn look.
First clapboard wall to check color and general finish. More detailing to go but gives me a basis for the remaining walls.
Geezerbill
February 2017
I’ll say its excellent Ken!! just amazing what you do.
Geezerbill
Bill
February 2017 edited February 2017
Very cool, Ken! I love how all the “utilities” come together in that corner.
Are you going to dry brush them a little?
Your subtle paint peel on the clapboard wall is killer! And THAT’s how to add nail holes!
CarlRowe
February 2017
Wow (again, I have to find a new word). Brilliant idea. Not too big, understated but obviously needed.
KKarns
February 2017
Well that’s awfully nice of you G. Bill, thanks much.
I have done very little dry brushing, particularly on something like this. Give me a short tutorial on what you would do here Bill. Appreciate your thoughts on the clapboard. One thing I did this time on the nail holes…I put the nail hole in with my pointed awl then came back with my #11 blade and on every other or every third or so hole I made a short slit with the tip of my blade right through the center of the hole. This was all done before enhancing the wood grain with my wire brush. This created a “crack” or split effect right where the nail hole was accented by the wire brushing.. Worked real well. I’ll try and get a real close shot and post.
Thanks Carl. As I mentioned, the beauty of putting the “utilities”, as Bill called them and I’m really not sure what they are!, in that back corner is that it allows me to tone down the look as much as I think it needs as the diorama comes together.
Bill
February 2017
The only reason I mentioned it is because the “dark on dark” (dark walls + dark castings) arrange is ripe for a lot of that work to get swallowed up by laconic contrast.
If you haven’t done much drybrushing, that area probably isn’t the place to learn or practice!
“Quick tutorial” probably wont get it done, but I can steer you in the right direction. First, here’s a trick: go back to that picture and look at it with squinted eyes. Squint your eyes to the point that the picture is out of focus. What you’ll see are the natural highlights on the raised edges of the castings caused by the light falling on them. Those natural highlights are unreliable depending on the lighting situation the model is in.
Keeping that “blurry” image in mind, the goal of drybrushing is to artificially reproduce those highlights.
Does this make sense so far?
I use a few colors working from dark to light. In this case maybe a medium gray, a tan and a light gray. (All acrylics–probably high quality paint and not craft paint). I almost always use brand new small flat brushes so the bristles and edges are perfect.
Load up the brush with you first color. Work it back and forth on a paper towel so the paint gets all the way to the interior bristles. You want to work the brush back and forth on the paper towel until almost all the paint gets removed on the paper towel. (So, put the paint on the brush and wipe it back off). Test the brush by wiping it on the back of your hand in a spot. If it highlights just the ridges of your skin (like a finger print), you’re ready to “drybrush” on the casting. You want to just “catch” the raised edges of the casting with paint. You’ll probably only get 4 or 5 strokes before it’ll be time to load/unload again. Keep repeating with the lighter colors.
I’m not sure if I’m telling you anything you don’t already know, but that’s it in a nutshell!
Joel
February 2017
Not too busy at all. Looks perfect. I think it will blend in which is really what you want. Great work.
KCSTrains
February 2017
Looks good to me. Great addition. Phil
SteveCuster
February 2017
Looks really great Ken. Fantastic detail with the piping.
For dry brushing I use a stiff straight brush and I use the blue shop towels to wipe off the paint. It’s more difficult to see how much is left on the brush on a white paper towel.
KKarns
February 2017
Really appreciate that wonderful tutorial Bill! I will start experimenting with dry brushing a bit more. Maybe not here since it’s installed and not to mess things up being too heavy handed. I know there are some great modelers out there that are deft at dry brushing and the late Brian Nolan was one of the best. Thanks again Bill for taking the time to school me on this.
Thanks Joel and I think you’re right, it should blend in nicely once the diorama is complete.
Thanks for the thumbs up Phil, I value your critique and thanks for taking the time.
Hey Steve, thanks my man…it’s so nice to get the opinions of the resident experts here on the forum and that’s what it’s all about. Hashing around ideas and bouncing things off each other. Good tips on the dry brushing you mentioned…thanks.
KKarns
February 2017
The work on the clapboard walls is coming along. I decided to try a similar detail that I did with the card stock template for the barn wall, and that is to have a portion of the siding missing and the studed inside wall farming peeking through. For the card stock is was a matter of cutting out a piece of the card stock and installing a small section of framing. Clapboard siding is would require something different and a bit more tedious.
The clapboard siding is about 2.0 mm thick so just cutting a section out would not put the framing close enough to the backside of the clapboards to look realistic. So I laid out my area and shaved down the thickness to just that of the clapboards. This brought my framing close enough to give the impression that clapboards are stock thickness and individually installed. I then weathered the siding to taste. This is a back wall and I put the detail close to the ground in case I messed it up I could cover it with clutter!
Note the Damaged area with a piece of clapboard missing. I weathered the bottom edge to appear very worn with a gradual transition up the wall.
A bit of scale perspective!
KCSTrains
February 2017
Ken, I’m not sure how you did this. Can I see a view of the backside of your clapboard siding? Thanks. Phil
Geezerbill
February 2017
Very, very good Ken!
Geezerbill
KKarns
February 2017
Phil, the modified area is now covered with the interior horizontal siding so not visible. Sent you a PM.
Thanks Bill.
KKarns
February 2017 edited February 2017
As I mentioned previously, I enjoy trying new techniques and methods on every build I do. In keeping with this philosophy, I decided to build a screen door and install on the plain wall at the back of the Dry Goods Store. In planning this door I envisioned a back way into the store from the Cook House which is right around the corner. The biggest hurdle was to find suitable material for the screen. I admit, HO Scale screen would be virtually invisible. I tried panty hose and this was horrible. They did not take paint or chalk very well and…well…looked like panty hose! I settled upon some black fabric netting I found which does not really look like screen but is the best I found. I tried paint filter material and it looked too coarse. This is something maybe we can research and find a more suitable material. The stuff I used looks great with the naked eye, but close up…ehh. I have made a door to install behind the screen door and will position it partially open. The screen door was influenced by the modeling of Chuck Doan and the roof was an idea taken from Chuck and Brett’s roof over the side door on the Barn for BlueSky. Door knob is styrene rod sanded round on the end and then cut with a razor blade. Designed to look like an old white porcelain knob.
Note the horizontal strap brace across the bottom. I remember seeing this on screen doors in the past. Keeps the thinner door from going out of square and is usually adjustable to take up the slack.
Roof with corrugated and a piece of metal flashing.
admin
February 2017
Well that’s awesome! I particularly like the brace on the bottom. Very convincing. The naturally weathered brown looks great against the dingy red. Fun!
KKarns
February 2017
It was fun putting this together. The clapboard is a blast to work with. Thanks for your critique Brett and I take it one wall at a time!
nextceo
February 2017
Screen door looks great. I always thought the brace on the bottom panel to prevent someone from pushing the screen in. I guess you’ve made me smarter…
CarlLaskey
February 2017
Ken when I was a kid in PA all of the grocery stores had screen doors and a lot of them had a advertisement painted on the screen for a example Bond Bread or Elsie the cow.
Have you tried bridal vail.
Carl.
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks much Alan. Yea, most of those braces have some type of an adjustment mechanism like a small turnbuckle to adjust. Those wood screen doors were notorious for dragging on the bottom outside edge because of sag.
Carl, That would have been cool! A stencil would have worked great. Not too late I don’t think..hmm
I think bridal veil is used for simulated 1:87 chain link fence? I may be wrong there but If so, obviously too big for screen!
admin
February 2017
two other possibilities are pipe screens and kitchen sink mesh strainers…
KKarns
February 2017
I’m on the search…thanks Brett!
KCSTrains
February 2017
Ken, you’re amazing. Who would have thought of a screen door and porcelain door know. Wow!! Phil
KKarns
February 2017
Ed, love details but…don’t love them that much!
Thanks Phil, I’m always thinking of new things to try…ie this was purposely done on a back wall of BlueSky just in case it was a dud! I’m happy with how it turned out.
KKarns
February 2017
Here’s a fun shot of the screen door with the solid door behind partially open. Will never show once the walls are up and the roof is on…will be too dark inside…if I put a light in there I’ll never be able to get at it…maybe I’ll cut a access hole in the bottom under the Dry Goods Store…yea…and…
SteveCuster
February 2017
That’s incredible Ken. Super cool detail.
Joel
February 2017 edited February 2017
Beautiful work as always. had some screen door material that was much finer than the tulle or the mesh you are using. May want to check out where he gets his stuff. Even then it was a bit coarse but effective. Just in case you plan on more fantastic details like this.
KKarns
February 2017
Thanks Joel, I’ll check it out. Yea, the screen was the one thing I wasn’t happy about but it really isn’t noticeable to any extent without magnification…but you know how it is…I know it’s there! And as you mentioned an improved version would be nice to secure for future projects.
Geezerbill
February 2017
Really Nice Ken!
Geezerbill
KKarns
February 2017
Appreciate it Bill. I love trying new things, keeps things interesting.
KKarns
February 2017
Ohh…ouch…an O Scale poke in the ribs!
KKarns
February 2017
More experimentation. Here is a resin double hung window that comes with the BlueSky kit. I wanted to try a peeling, cracked paint finish over well worn wood. In addition, to try something different, I installed security “bars” across the window. I found images of old gas stations on-line with these same security bars and also gained inspiration from the modeling of Chuck Doan. The top bar has a bit too much white paint still on so may tweak that one a bit, but serves to give the idea a show.
Inspiration from a photo found on-line. Note the window security bars…
brownbr
February 2017
The peeling paint on the door is believable as is the screen. Its so hard to do in this scale.
You should think about moving this business to a better neighborhood if you need metal bars on the doors.
Bryan
Bill
February 2017
Very cool little detail Ken. Are you using 4 in total on the window? I read that you felt the top one had too much white, but I wasn’t sure if you pulled off the top one and we’re working on it off the model. Otherwise, I’m pretty sure a thief would go through the top pane!
What did you use for the crackle effect?
KKarns
February 2017
Right you are Bryan. I did the security bars just for fun and something different.
Right working on the fourth one but not sure I’ll add it. Kind of like the look with three despite the possibility of a break-in! Two for sure not enough, four seemed a bit busy…we’ll see.
admin
February 2017
ok, how about the remnants of the fourth bar on the window frame, holes from the bolts, a little rust streaking, etc…
On a side note I love the crackle on the window…
KKarns
February 2017
Great idea Brett! Like my Dad…always knew what to do.
To be critical of myself, which I also enjoy doing…
The bars may be slightly wider than they should be, the bolt heads are a bit large as well but are the smallest I can get, I may try the cut solder trick on the other one. and they need a little worn paint on them as well. It does however look fairly good just looking at it.
The only reason I used the “crackle” paint was that I didn’t use any resist layer on the window and it lifts readily without it. Hairspray and regular white paint would accomplish the same thing, as the cracked finish really can’t be decerned without magnification! The scorge of 1:87 scale details…many are difficult to see! I love the look though as well.
Bill
February 2017 edited February 2017
Love Brett’s idea…
A bolt on each side or is it possible to make the bar hanging down as if the threads didn’t hold on one side?
KKarns
February 2017
Dude, how about one missing and the other with the fourth one hanging down still fastened on one side? Nice…this is modeling at it’s best! Thanks Bill for tabling the issue. Brett had another issue that I will clarify once I have the above details sorted out and implemented.
Joel
February 2017
Instead of bolt heads you could use a rivet or carriage bolt head which can be modelled in HO with a drop of glue or those rivet decals. It would keep to scale and be easier.
Just a thought.
KKarns
February 2017
Right Joel…those actually are rivet heads and already .025" which I’m glad you brought up becuase I thought .025 was the smallest but there is a .020. I’m going to order some of those and that actually may do it! Thanks Joel.
NejcR
February 2017
Wow, great effect on that window!
KKarns
February 2017
Down with that Ed!
Thanks much Nejc. I was pleased with how it turned out and a testament to how versatile Brett’s resin castings are. Working on the rest of the windows in similar fashion…Ken
Wes
February 2017
Hello Hello. Anyone there?
Taking another vacation there Dr Grunge? Or are you working on another lot of mind blowingly wonderful HO details?
KKarns
February 2017
Guilty as charged Wes! My lame explaination is that all the walls for BlueSky are detailed with doors, windows, and misc. before assembly. As you may have seen here, I experimented with detailing clapboard siding with removal of strategic pieces with framing and interior siding showing through. The experiment went well and I have now detailed eight different places to varying degree. Each one takes a good bit of time to complete. In addition, I have just about finished all the windows and doors. Blah, blah, blah…right? I know what you’re thinking…just get on with it. All the walls are nearly finished and I will take some pictures of each one to highlight the deatils before putting the structure together.
As I mentioned in my Wood Clinic, the treatment of the wood, which here includes both stripwood and clapboard siding, is so important to the overall build that I’m treating each separate wall as a individual model.
Thanks for “rattling my cage” Wes, I get fired up just talking about this stuff…
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
I will be posting an update on my progress with BlueSky over the next few days. I have completed the detailing on the Office and Dry Goods Store, a total of 7 different walls. Following this update, I will be assembling all the walls of the two structures comprising the BlueSky main building complex.
The gabled two-sided wall originally displayed the large main “BlueSky Company” sign and was supplied as a dry transfer decal. This BlueSky kit is now 22 years old and following an experiment I performed with the extra dry transfer decals Brett provided in the kit on a test piece of clapboard siding, I found the paint was quite dry and did not transfer well. I discussed this with Brett and decided rather than risk a poor transfer on this highly visible wall I decided to make a sign to install in the same location as the original spot for the BlueSky decal.
The picture below is of the completed sign and Gabled “Front Wall”. Art work was found on the internet and was sized and printed on a color printer. The images were glued to a piece of styrene sheet cut to size, covered with matte finish Magic Tape by 3M, and weathered with chalks and raw umber gouache.
Those not familiar with BlueSky, the “un-stained” portion of this wall does not show and the door seen along the right side is the inside of a door that is entered from the outside loading dock area and is not visible. Note the simple paper blind glued to the back of the window.
The following picture is the other side of the wall. I wanted to maintain the iconic BlueSky name somewhere on the diorama. I decided to make a sign from one of the smaller BlueSky Dry Transfer decals but once again did not want to risk a poor transfer onto a finished wall. I made a sign board and performed the transfer, this way if it turned out poorly it could be re-done or not done at all. The transfer on the flat board went very well I think and proudly displays the BlueSky name!
A bit of scale perspective. More walls to come…
Bill
March 2017
Way to adapt and overcome with the new sign, Ken. “Groceries and Dry Goods” has a cool ring to it and helps pinpoint the era being modeled.
The wood color has me a little concerned…
Really dark stained siding didn’t hold it’s deep color for long (since it attracts sunlight more readily than other colors). The area around the man door looks about right to my eye, but the higher gable area is what I thought might be as faded–or maybe even more so. Just an observation–
(who knows, maybe you haven’t finished weathering the siding and I’m supposed to be looking only at the grocery sign!!!)
KKarns
March 2017
Way to early to be looking at that kind of thing. Good spot though Bill, I want to see how much roof overhang there will be before commiting to any further weathering. And to be honest, the walls did not look very good heavily faded. I experimeneted extensively on some extra clapboard siding. Now the pictures here are a bit dark taken indoors and I drive Brett crazy with my lack luster picture taking. That particualr wall with the big sign does seem darker and less weathered than my other walls…hmm
I paid much more attention to fading the paint along the bottom edges of the walls (dark to light) as you’ll see in my future posts and less attention to the reverse needed under the eaves (light to dark)…
Bill
March 2017
Fair enough. Just gotta keep you on your toes!
Joel
March 2017
Great work. Love the peeling paint on the door.
admin
March 2017
Love the groceries sign - fits right in. Sign above door looks great too…
brownbr
March 2017
Looks nice, but the painters you hired missed a spot in pic 1.
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Thanks Brett for your counceling, and the sign came together well and appreciate your thoughts on it.
Hey Joel, thanks much and due to the close up shots the paint peel looks a bit harsh in the image but is much more subdued in front of me
Bryan, those stumble bums can’t follow instructions for anything! Sorry that area is a distraction for sure but of course is covered once the walls are together.
Ed, You can’t shame me into moving to the “dark side”! That diorama Brett came up has the ability to convert the purist of HO Scale Modelers.
SteveCuster
March 2017
Looks great Ken. The sign is excellent, did you add the rust or is it part of the image?
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
OK Bill…your suggestion and critical eye on the wall bothered me all day. I knew I didn’t look right after you brought it to my attention. You have a superb eye for that sort of thing. I came home and immeditaley began tweaking the wall a bit and took an outside shot with better lighting. Below are the results. You’ll notice the darker less weathered siding up under the area where the roof overhang would be (studied the manual on that). I blacked out the distracting area that will be covered once the walls are together.
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
White balance a bit off
KKarns
March 2017
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Hi Steve, Posted this update before seeing your post…thanks for your thoughts. I added the rust stains and streaks. The center black and white sign was separate from the CocaCola signs. So the sign is made up of three separate pieces. I just cut the coke bottle off a duplicate of the left side sign. Hate the close ups…geesh the left CocaCola sign is a hair off level!..@$@*!%$
KKarns
March 2017
Here is another wall at the back of BlueSky. Only 5 more to go…more tomorrow
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Ed…yea, when Bill spots something its the real deal. That wall was just too dark. I was trying to figure out why it got so dark compared to the other walls and my lame excuse is that I was spending all my time messin around with the sign that I failed to weather the wall as I did the others. However, Bill also pointed out abouth the subtile diffrerence in the wethering under the roof eaves which would be a bit darker and less weathered than the remainder of the wall and that’s when the light bulb kind of thing went off.
Bill
March 2017
Dude, that looks SO sharp! That little adjustment tied the age of the wall and the sign together. So now it looks the formerly white sign has yellowed to about the same degree as the brown siding has lightened. I think you’ll have a really killer effect when you add the overhang.
Did you take a scratch pen to those boards or how did you do it?
The rotted boards at the bottom of the other wall are well done, too.
Ed–you’re too kind!
The problem is, a lot of times I can’t see similar things in my own work. I try to think stuff through ahead of time, but just like what Ken said…it’s easy to fixate on getting one component correct and overlook the basics.
With the dark siding, I had some real world help:
My parent’s house had dark brown wood siding and it was a colossal pain in the a$$–constantly fading and cracking (especially on the southern exposure). It developed that bleached out look about a year after staining it, and Ken captured the effect to a “T”.
KCSTrains
March 2017
Ken, I like the change to the siding. It does look a lot better. Phil
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Well stated Ed and thanks for your thoughts. Have a safe trip.
Appreciate that Bill and thanks for the schooling. This is what this forum is all about!
Phil, thanks for the vote of confidence and glad I re-worked things a bit.
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Bill, you mentioned that you liked the rotted boards at the bottom of the wall on the previous picture. I eluded previously as to how tedious this is to accomplish with solid scribed clapboard siding. Here is a detail shot of the back of the wall where that rotted area was made. I had to carve out the back of the siding down to the thickness of just the clapboard and put in the framing. I did this in several places as this is the first time trying this technique.
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
This wall of the Dry Goods Store faces the tracks. I glued in a piece of stripwood behind the left window and populated it with various items to represent a shelf or desk top inside. Will likely add a stick or can holding the window up. The right window has newsprint covering part of the window. Additional rotted area on the lower left.
This picture highlights the features inside the left window a bit better.
This wall was originally a solid wall. I took Brett’s lead from the O Scale version of BlueSky in which a door was added to this wall. I felt the wall was too bare and decided to put in a service window. This window has horizontal sliding windows. I installed a large counter sill on the outside for cutomers and delivery personnel to submit orders, etc., and a light to illuminate the area. I’ll have a couple of “bar stool” style chairs here for sitting and loafing. The loading dock will be along this wall. Inside the window I placed another stripwood piece to act as a desk or counter that will have details placed before the walls go together. Note the service “buzzer”
This wall was fetured earlier and was a solid wall that I decided to add a solid door and a screen door. I have now added a small light and door “buzzer”. This door allows direct access to the BlueSky Complex from the CookHouse out back.
Illustrates the solid door partially open inside.
Here is the front of the Gorcery and Dry Goods Store. I added a screen door in front of the original solid door, added signage and a light.
View of the cracked open screen door…
Those not familiar with BlueSky, there is a service station component with a gas pump and various service station items. I decided to make my service station a Texaco brand. I fashioned the sign by gluing two identical signs back-to-back. I then ran a strip of thin paper painted and rusted along the edge. The sign framing is all styrene and NBWs. Rusted and weathered to taste.
This concludes the main detailing and finish of the Dry Goods Store walls. Time to glue everything up…
Joel
March 2017
Wow! Love the buzzer and the new screen door. Love the fact the screen is coming detached just like most screen doors I know. Also much better scale screen. Great work. Amazing eye for detail.
admin
March 2017
The Texaco sign is fantastic. Love it. The product pricing signs are so perfect. and then there’s the doorbell/light combo on the wall. Outstanding. Ring the bell for service boys!
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Joel. You’re right this screen door looks much better and thanks for the tip.
Appreciate that Brett and thanks much for your council on several issues including the dreadful “ICE” sign, such a good call! It snuck in on a couple of the pictures before removal…
brownbr
March 2017
You sure work fast. Love all the details on the walls.
nextceo
March 2017
Really like the sign Kenny G…
Wes
March 2017
Well Mr Doan, sorry i mean Karns.
That is some really fantastic and inspiring work my friend. Knitting or lawn bowls is seriously looking to be a better option than trying to compete against your artistry.
I cant wait for more.
SteveCuster
March 2017
Looks great Ken, really fantastic detail. What did you do to lighten up the wall?
I second what Wes said, this is Chuck Doan level detailing.
KCSTrains
March 2017
Ken, you continue to amaze me with your imagination and craftsman skills. You truly are gifted and if I had the power I would dub thee as a “Master Craftsman!!” Phil
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Bryan, seems to me like I go at a snails pace…glad it doesn’t appear that way to some.
Gald to hear that Alan, spent a good bit of time on it as it’s right out there and really shows!
Hey Wes, appreciate the sentiments for sure. However, my/our address is planet earth…Chuck’s is somewhere else!!
Thanks Steve. I studied the manual to get a feel for the roof overhang as I haven’t gotten that far yet of course. Once I decided that, I scraped along the boards carefully with the edge of my #11 blade, then did some targted sanding mostly on the front edge of the boards followed by some light brown chalk leaving more paint up undet the future eaves.
Hi Phil, I really look forward to your critique and certianly thank you for your thoughts but you may have left out a letter in dub…maybe an “m”…more fitting for my mug.
CarlRowe
March 2017
R E diculous. Great ideas and building.
KKarns
March 2017
Hey Apprecaite that Carl, nice hearing from you.
ironmountainlumber
March 2017
Hey there! Dr Grunge I see you are applying some new and exiting techniques and ideas to put you over the top again. You are putting us to shame. I really have to tell you outstanding, fantastic, and you are blowing my mind. First the idea of opening up the wall with exposed studs underneath is really cool and really adds another dimension to your modeling. Secondly the screen doors and the crackled paint are fantastic. You asked about screen and I was on line buying some LEDs and there is a product called micro mesh that you could use for screen. I think the screen you have is absolutely stunning and i like it a lot! The idea of a grocery store with the signs is fantastic. I like Brett, really love the texaco sign and all the details around the doors as well. I am not for sure what you will come up with next, but I bet it will blow everyone away. I was thinking and I had maybe a good or bad idea. You will have to decide on this one. What may be cool is when you get to the porch to use natural branchs to shape into the posts. I saw this Tom Millers FN3 layout video on one of his buildings. Just an idea.
I tell you so many great builds going on the forum right now. So get back at it! This is simply a marvelous outstanding and fantastic build!
Jim
Coors2u
March 2017
Always first class work Ken. It is really great to be able to sit back and enjoy your work.
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Hey my friend, how have you been Jim? From your response to Steve it sounds like your making some progress on your layout.
I always look forward to your critique and you certainly made my day. Thank you very much for that. I really do enjoy trying new things with each build. I have always liked the look of old grocery stores and gas stations and love the old screen doors you see occasionally. BlueSky was the perfect opportunity to try and model them. I also love the look of framing showing through broken and missing clapboard siding, so once again BlueSky was ripe for this experiment. Another thing that Brett promotes in most, if not all, his kits is to detail each wall before assembling the structure. This allows the wall to be manipulated and postioned to facilitate all the wonderful details he recommends. I do spend a good bit of time as a result making sure I think about the adjacent wall and how the details may need to carry over to give the right effect, since I’m working on one wall at a time. I slid in a picture here of the back lower corner of the Main Barn on BlueSky to illustrate this point.
An example of planning ahead when working on detailing walls before assembly. I wanted this back corner to appear rotten and worn due to the plumbing leaks and roof run off. By forward planning I made sure the two walls, once put together, appeared as they were together all along and deteriorated.
Thanks for the tip on the screen material. The idea of using natural “logs” for porch supports is a really good one. I have seen just what you’re talking about in several pictures of old porches I have researched. I’ll keep you posted on how that goes.
Thanks again Jim and sorry for the lengthy and slightly off topic response.
Well…there’s that proud father! How ya been Justin? Appreciate you checking in and thanks for your thoughts.
KKarns
March 2017
Oh…just for you nut and bolt counters…the plumbing, both pipes, will extend and disappear below ground once the building is planted on the diorama.
sdrees
March 2017
Ken,
Since we are both working on the walls, I am following you to see what I might want to do to my walls on Shelby’s Marine. Thanks for all your posts on the Blue Sky and your description and how to of your details.
KKarns
March 2017
You bet Stephen. The walls for BlueSky have been assembled and working on the roof of the main barn. Will post an update on this soon.
Joel
March 2017
Even your work surface in the above picture is beautifully weathered. Well done!
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Joel…that’s just a weathered section of my outdoor deck railing! Fits in nice to the “Dr. Grunge” persona…
ironmountainlumber
March 2017
Ken, I enjoy hearing your take on things. The more thoughts the better! The picture above is fantastic. This is great fun looking at the pictures and your thoughts about how you are doing it. Great job! Bring it on I say.
Jim
Wes
March 2017
Some more awesome work Ken. Always excited to see your updates bud.
KKarns
March 2017
Good to hear Jim, I’m planning (maybe) to have the ground sunken in just a bit around this corner and have a bit of “foundation” showing…we’ll see how that goes.
Appreciate that Wes and I think about your comments often and look forward to your thoughts on things as well.
sdrees
March 2017
Ken,
I know I am late in the game here on the screen door, but take a look at the material they use for silk screen. I have used it and I like it.
KKarns
March 2017
Ahh…very nice Stephen. Wouldn’t have thought of that but can visualize the utility there! Thanks.
KKarns
March 2017
As I mentioned early on, updates on my BlueSky build may be far and few between but I am working. All the walls are assembled and the barn roof is almost done. In the mean time, I experimented with an idea I had. Rather than just have a black paper view block that prevents someone peeking inside a window and seeing the other side and an unfinished wall, I wanted there to be something to see but didn’t want to try and make up a detailed interior. I searched and found an appropriate image, sized it through trial and error and then mounted it inside the building on a piece of folded card stock. This is not a new idea but one I hadn’t tried and I don’t recall seeing very often. Image below of the end result.
KKarns
March 2017
Inside image is a bit out of focus as camera focused on the window, but you get the idea.
MitchN
March 2017
Ken,
That service button with the wire is great! And the sign too. Clever.
Mitch
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Mitch…the window appears high on the wall, but the loading dock and deck will bring the floor up proper…
sdrees
March 2017
Ken,
Very clever, and a nice addition to the project.
nextceo
March 2017 edited March 2017
So..if I ring the bell…will it work?
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Stephen…the little things…
Depends on who you are!
Hi Ed, appreciate that. I’m keeping a slow but steady pace on the build.
KKarns
March 2017
To clarify…I was looking at my own picture I posted above and wanted to mention that the image that you see through the window is about 1.5 inches back from the window. The picture looses that depth feeling and didn’t want anyone thinking I put the picture right up to the window, which of course would have looked terrible! Its also bent around and meets the wall on both side so if you peer in at an angle you still see interior apperaing details.
ironmountainlumber
March 2017
I will take 2 cans of beans and some tums if you have them. What a great scene!!! The peeled paint, the service bell, sign, and light with the shelves and goods in the background are awesome! You need a little person leaning on the window ledge too!
This is really great stuff Ken.
Jim
mikemettelka
March 2017
KKarns said:
To clarify…I was looking at my own picture I posted above and wanted to mention that the image that you see through the window is about 1.5 inches back from the window. The picture looses that depth feeling and didn’t want anyone thinking I put the picture right up to the window, which of course would have looked terrible! Its also bent around and meets the wall on both side so if you peer in at an angle you still see interior apperaing details.
That just answered my question… I hope you won’t mind if I come up with more soon… it seems like I have a lot to learn lol
admin
March 2017
wonderful effect. Just enough of an illusion to be believable…
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Brett, just another one of those “experiments” that seemed to work here and in the “file drawer” for future builds.
Hey Jim…thanks…and wait till the deck is installed and I put in a loafing stool and some details inside and out on the counter…Funny you mentioned the little people (LPs). I, as a rule, tend to not like a diorama populated with little people. I think if it were done with high quality figures painted extremely well it would work. I know other modelers that have done a very good job with the LPs, and I think it’s just a personal preference kind of thing. With that said, I have been thinking of late, to begin a Dr. Grunge signature move and have just one little person somewhere on all my dioramas but in a not so visible spot. Just like inside at the counter as you mentioned. Anyone viewing my diormas will have to search around to find my LP…kind of like the “Where’s Waldo” books. I will begin with BlueSky and also see if I can back track and add them to my previous builds. Korny idea…probably…but sounds fun to me.
Well hi Mike, ask away…nice hearing from you
KKarns
March 2017
The following images finish up the back corner weathering on the main barn. Previously I mentioned how its important to plan out how individual walls will appear together when working on them seperately before assembly.
The roof card stock was cut out and rafters and purlins were made and installed so missing and rotten roof boards would reveal the apperance of a structured roof framing underneath. This now allows for a cohesive apperance of the entire right rear of the barn has suffered water and weather damage from the roof water tank, exterior plumbing which leaks and water run off from the roof.
Roof card stock cut and sub-roof framing installed.
Finished main barn roof with wethered rear corner complete.
KKarns
March 2017
Better view of the roof area detailing
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Bout ready to say…barn rear is the rear of the barn!..so glad you got it my man…thanks much Ed, appreciate your thoughts.
Bill
March 2017
Excellent work as always, Ken. The rotted roof is really well done and the interior picture is very effective.
The photo that you used–is it slightly out of focus within the model? Or is it crisp but appears blurred in that picture?
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Thanks Bill, interior image is crisp and clean just out of focus as the auto focus locked on the window as the interior image is about an inch or so further back.
**
Karl.A**
March 2017 edited March 2017
Beautiful work Ken,
I especially like the way you have thought through and planned this corner, obviously long before you started building it.
The leaking water tank/pipe, leading to a hole in the roof, leading to the rotten walls at the base.
People in the future will see the finished model and that specific scene will look natural and make sense to them without them even thinking about it,
however,
It takes creative vision to see it before it is even there, and then even more to design and build it, essentially visualising it all in reverse.
ie: I want a rotted wall, so, what would be behind the rotted wall? how can I build that? how can I adapt that into what is there now.
Basically reverse engineering the outward look you wanted and then actually building it forwards to give you that look.
Nicely done. !
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Karl, really enjoy your insite and your appreciation for what I’m trying to accomplish and convey here…much better than I could explain it!
brownbr
March 2017
I really like the look of the roof
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks much Bryan. After seeing it in the images and mulling over it in front of me, I think the staggering of the main roof boards are a bit too much. I could always go back and correct but probably better left alone least I screw something up! The front appears more subtile. Will post pics of the finished barn soon, have the loft roof to go…
Joel
March 2017
Love it! Coming together perfectly.
KKarns
March 2017
Good…glad to hear that as I respect your modeling prowess…nice hearing from you Joel.
KCSTrains
March 2017
Ken, I’ve been traveling again (this time to Spokane - Go Zags!!!). I’m catching up on your build. Amazing stuff. I wouldn’t be afraid of LPs. With you skill, I would buy unpainted LPs and paint them to match your diorama. Keep up the good work. Phil
admin
March 2017
The roof looks fantastic. Love the exposed corner…
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Brett, such a wonderful design with so much character I’m having a ball detailing the thing. This roof is such a focal point of the BlueSky complex, it deserves careful scrutiny and attention.
Hi Phil, welcome back from the “field” so to speak. Thanks for the vote of confidence and I’ll see how I do on a sample LP and hide em in BlueSky somewhere!
SteveCuster
March 2017
Looking fantastic Ken. All the small details are really incredible.
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Steve, It’s slowly coming together.
NejcR
March 2017
Great idea on the roof edge, everything is coming together really nice!
KKarns
March 2017
Thanks Nejc, it seemed to work out well.
Karl.A
March 2017
Roof looks fantastic, leave it alone.
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2017
Appreciate that Karl, I agree best leave it be…
KKarns
April 2017
Taking Karl’s advise I left well enough alone and have thus finished the roof of the old barn. Actually, the entire barn is done save for the water tank platform and water tank. I will add some details around and with it later on. Roof was extended slightly in front and appropriate patches and repairs made.
Karl.A
April 2017
Incredible !
No more to say.
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks Karl, inspired by your wonderful treatment of the O Scale version many moons ago!
nextceo
April 2017
Looks fantastic Kenny…man that Wood looks old!
Karl.A
April 2017
On the O scale…, yes I built the walls, but Brett did the stencil and got that amazing look.
Yours, as I said, is incredible.
admin
April 2017
Superb!
KKarns
April 2017
Hey thanks Alan…you know got to give it the “Grungy” look.
Appreciate that Karl, really like many of the updates and differences between the two versions. Your wood treatment and coloring on the O Scale Barn was genius, as the entire pilot model is. Gleened many ideas and inspiration from that pictorial.
Thanks Brett, hard to believe this kit is 22 years old…would be light years above anything else on the market if it was new off the shelf today!
sdrees
April 2017
Hi Ken,
the wood looks like the old barn down the street!
Coors2u
April 2017
Wow, such fantastic work Ken.
SteveCuster
April 2017
Fantastic Ken. I love the corrugated metal patches on the roof.
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks Stephen, nice to know the look is plausible.
Hey Dustin…nice heraing from you and appreciate that.
Thanks Steve. The patch work was taken from both the Loco and Service Shops build and O’Neills where Brett outlines this type of patch and repair quite nicely. The Loco Shop in particular as the roof is quite similar to BlueSky’s Barn roof with the battens.
brownbr
April 2017
Most impressive.
Joel
April 2017
Really stunning. You captured the colouring of the siding perfectly.
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks much Bryan.
Appreciate your critique Joel. I was concerned with how dark it was but has since grown on me and have seen many barns that have weathered dark like this.
Geezerbill
April 2017
Very, very nice Ken! Just great.
Geezerbill
Joel
April 2017
It is the “dark” that I think gives it a richness and depth. It is great. Did you use any extra colours or did you just use a bit more of the 403 point whatever?
Bill
April 2017 edited April 2017
Wow! Those walls are outstanding! The right wall with the upper man door in particular demonstrates how to get the maximum effect out this type of modeling: natural color variation but just enough to illustrate the uniqueness of board-on-board construction.
Textbook stuff, my man!
Wes
April 2017
That just looks plain crappy Ken. Please post it to me and start over.
What a way to start my monday morning at work. Brilliant modelling bud.
KCSTrains
April 2017
Ken, you continue to set the bar on construction. Thanks for the inspiration. Phil
KKarns
April 2017 edited April 2017
Thanks “G” Bill, apprecaite that.
I have to agree Joel. As I was staining the wood I thought although they were definitely grey just not what I wanted. As I darkened them up the look got better. So to answer your question…I started out just staining with multiple coats of AI until I got the color I wanted. Then detailed the wood and applied a concentrated AI on certian areas mostly to the board ends, knot hole areas, etc. with a detail brush. Then finished up with the chalks, again not over the entire board just strategic areas.
Hey Bill, thanks much…and board-on-board rules the day for sure.
Wes…what up buddy!..no way, you have a bad history of shipping and BlueSky!, they would be watching for it…Always nice to hear from ya and thanks.
Hi Phil, hopefully the traveling is slowing down a bit for you…and thanks for your thoughts here…I’m still tickled to be able to build this first kit of Bretts…birthed over 22 years ago!..love it…
mikemettelka
April 2017
Going back a few pages that your door buzzers… how did you go about making them? I’ve also noticed a lot of your extra details have nbw’s… do you scratch build them, or do you buy them somewhere?
KKarns
April 2017
Hi Mike, the buzzer was made by taking an appropriate sized styrene rod and countouring the end with fine sandpaper and then slicing off the disk with a razor blade. The center button is a rivet with the head cut off with a razor blade and glued to the styrene base.
When called for in the manual, Brett supplies nice NBWs in the kits. If I’m adding extra details to me dioramas, I’ll use NBWs from various sources…I’ll send you a PM here shortly.
KKarns
April 2017
Well Ed…I’ll take that as compliment, thanks my man.
I decided to post a much overdue update on my BlueSky build progress. I have been working on the Office portion of the Office and Dry Goods Store complex. I went off the reservation just a bit and constructed the sub-roof out of stripwood so I could have missing pieces of roof material and have the sub-roof visible. In addition, I wanted an older style of tar paper I have seen that is put down with heat and ends up “hugging” the roof more than the tar paper we see today. It also has a bit of a dull sheen like real tar coating. I accomplished this by using a thin tissue paper that I spray painted black. I am then going back and carefully peel uo the front edge here and there and tearing off bits and then wetahering to look like damaged and worn areas. You’ll see a couple in the pictures, but not done with the final detailing yet.
kebmo
April 2017
wow. just wow.
admin
April 2017
Tarpaper looks perfect. I have a tendency to overdo the tearing and weathering to the point where it is unrealistic. Spot on Ken, excellent color pairing with the wood.
nextceo
April 2017
Nice work Kenny. What did you use for tar…I assume some sort of glue with black paint…
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks much Brett and appreciate your thoughts on the torn and wethered edges. I think I’ll keep this to a minimum here.
Good one Ed and thanks.
Great Kevin…thanks, and nice seeing you jumping in here!
Alan, I just coated the back of each strip with slightly watered down Elmers and then smoothed out the paper with my fingers to pick up all the surface texture. Tedious as the tissue paper wants to curl when the glue gets on the back. You can go with applying the glue to the roof first but I didn’t particularly like that method myself.
Here’s a couple of pictures of the chimney and flashing completed…
Karl.A
April 2017
Superb work Ken, the colouring and weathering are just terrific. am going to steal your ‘thin’ tar paper that shows the boards underneath idea, that is incredible, and flawless execution.
Karl.A
sdrees
April 2017 edited April 2017
Hi Ken,
I like your tar paper roof Ken. This one looks functional and will stop leaks.
nextceo
April 2017
The chimney looks perfect. What did you use ti fill in the mortar joints?
Bill
April 2017 edited April 2017
Outstanding! I love how the layers and overlaps really come through on your tarpaper. It makes it obvious that the roof has had extended sun and heat exposure.
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks Karl and I’m sure not a new idea just a variation on a theme. I think the key is what type of paper is used. If you would like I can post a picture of the raw paper I used.
Appreciate it Stephen…
Alan, I didn’t use anything to fill in the joints. The chimney casting is so highly detailed but of course small that I felt any “material” added to the joints would take away from the detail. So, I primed the casting with an enamel from a spray can and let that CURE. I then came back with my SWSM/Reaper #29835 “Dirty Grey” lightened with a bit of white and painted the casting joints and then went over it with a moist swab removing most of the grey from the brick faces. The slight grey hue left on the bricks served to make the transition very subtile. When all dry I dusted very lightly with black chalk, almost like dry brushing, over the whole thing.
Thanks Bill…it was good experiment with the type of paper I used. Almost called you regarding how you did your Quicny Barn tar paper as I believe it was a similar method or close?? This one seems just a bit heavier…
admin
April 2017
Color, texture, just perfect Ken. I love the subtle roof boards under the tarpaper. I have always had a special place in my modeling heart for bluesky, after all it was my first!
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks much Brett and that was a big motivation for me to build this kit…a tribute to you and SWSM. I thought it fitting that since I just completed O’Neills, your latest HO/HOn3 offering, I would build your very first!..a span of 22 years. Great stuff and hope I build BlueSky as it deserves…
Wes
April 2017
ken my man. Sorry for the delayed response. Work and and a almost 3 year old have been taking up the majority of my time lately.
Your recent posts are up to your wonderful standards.The last pic in particular is a real beauty. The siding and old roofing just look so real. Keep up the great work buddy.
Joel
April 2017
Great detailing as always.
KKarns
April 2017
Well Wes…work is no excuse, but an almost 3 year old trumps everything! Always nice hearing from you and your one of the best friends I’ve never met! That last picture did highlight the look I am after for this build…you have a good eye and appreciate your thoughts. I have three more roofs to go so I’m contemplating at least a couple of other different looks…we’ll see how the experiments go…particularly targeting the Dry Goods Store roof as it is nearly flat.
Hey Joel, thanks my friend and my goal is to have BlueSky ready for the EXPO in the fall, and trust I’ll see you there.
KKarns
April 2017
Quick and lean update. I have finished the initial detailing on the roof for the Dry Goods Store. I was contemplating a slightly different roof here but quickly decided aginst that idea. Much more detailing to go here but wanted to get something up…
ironmountainlumber
April 2017
Ken,
Very well done!!! The flashing on the chimney is superb. The tar paper really looks prototypical. The rot on the barn and the bottom of the main building is really well done as well as the paint on the windows and main building. Just outstanding! As I told you before you are certainly the master of the details!
Jim
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks Jim…its slowly getting there. I’m happy the way the paper I used hugs the roof boards and appears prototypically thin. Not long and it will be time to plant it on the diorama base.
Karl.A
April 2017
Looks fantastic Ken, beautiful work.
Karl.A
nextceo
April 2017
Looks fantastic Ken. All the color tones flow together quite nicely.
mikemettelka
April 2017
Something to aspire too…
KKarns
April 2017
Apprecaite that Karl and I know it wasn’t much of an update but wanted to get something posted. I plan some debris on the flat roof as the pitch is so slight leaves and debris would have collected up there. I will likely wait until the diorama is further along to see what kind of tree species and where they will be located so the debris field is appropriate…you know…will I model tree leaves or pine needles!
Thanks Alan…always nice hearing from you.
Hey Mike, thanks for your thoughts and thanks.
Karl.A
April 2017
I like the way you think..
KKarns
April 2017
Thanks Karl…great minds kind of thing??..nah, I didn’t think so either!
Hah…you’re all fired!..nobody mentioned from the last picture that my hanging Texaco sign on the front left of the Dry Goods store wall is gone. Knocked it off fooling around with the roof work, *&^!@&%#&!..didn’t damage it at all though, and I am leaving it off until I’m done fooling around!
KKarns
May 2017
Well nobody gets my wit and wisdom…lol…so moving along…I added a fun little detail to the Dry Goods Store sign wall. An old light fixture base with exposed wires…this will run down to the electrical panel mounted on the wall later on. Wanted to get this done while I could still manipulate the building on its side to facilitate the “fiddly” running and attacment of the wire.
nextceo
May 2017
Nice little touch there Ken…what did you use for the wire…solder?
Bill
May 2017
That’s awesome! An electrical code violation…before there were electrical codes. Very prototypical and seldom (ever?) modeled.
.
Joel
May 2017
Love it. So many ideas to steal and so little time…
mikemettelka
May 2017
That’s great! What did you use for the light base?
admin
May 2017
Love it. All these seemingly benign additional details make your builds wonderfully unique.
sdrees
May 2017
like your nice detail.
CarlRowe
May 2017
R E diculous. Great ideas and building.
brownbr
May 2017 70.160.217.180
Lovin all the little extras
KKarns
May 2017 edited May 2017
Thanks much Brett…your wonderful kits just support details so well…can’t help myself!
Appreciate that Alan. The wire is actually fine ship rigging thread that I textured with chalk.
Thanks Ed and nice hearing from you.
Hey Bill…glad you think so. When looking at old buildings such as BlueSky’s Dry Goods Store, I’m moved by all the old wiring going to nothing, old pipes and cables attached to the siding, etc…it really gives the building that look of a succession of features that convey the age and neglect of the building. When a light went bad and not replaced, rather than tear out all the wiring it was just left there. I purposely made some sags in the wiring as it ran along the siding for effect.
Thanks Joel…you hereby have permission to use any said detail ideas you wish…just fill out the required paperwork for copywrite relief…
Mike, thanks…the base is just a small fiber board “washer” from my junk box. I drilled two small holes in the sides…very small holes!..and inserted two very thin pieces of short wire to simulate the mounting screws for the light fixture beasel. I then glued a couple pieces of very thin thread inside the opening and hanging out for the wire.
Thanks Steve…like Brettt eluded to…sum of the parts kind of thing where each individual detail may have a small impact, but when combined with many small details makes a big difference on the finished project…at least I think so…
Hey Carl…I know a bit fiddly but I enjoy that stuff…and requires a posting like this to point it out or it may never be seen!
Well Bryan, good to hear from you and thanks much.
SteveCuster
May 2017
This is really turning out fantastic Ken. That wire is a great detail.
-Steve
Wes
May 2017
How flippen fantastic is that last pic.
Ken you are the man. Most of us struggle to even achieve this reality in O scale.
Keep up the good work brother.
KKarns
May 2017
Hey Steve, been thinking about you and your terrific diorama…hope its coming along well. Thanks for your thoughts on the update.
Wes my friend!..thanks so much and it was one of those details you’re not sure will work but can visualize it in your mind. Again, appreciate the kind words of encouragement. Just too bad you’re so darn far away…forum keeps us all close though!
One thing I noticed that I think is subtile but makes the deatil work well is Brett’s design here. The pitch and angle of the roof lines requires the sign, if centered between the walls, is not in the center of the ridge peak. So when I put the light fixture base centered over the sign it’s off center from the ridge peak which I think looks cool as hell! Not all uniform and in a line…
Karl.A
May 2017
Outstanding as always Ken.
Love the way you weathered the sign so meticulously and thoughtfully.
Wiring is perfectly executed, down to the sags in the line and the loose wires on the fixture.
Nobody could improve on this… except well, maybe you.
Karl.A
and yes I saw what you saw, but that’s just the camera angle and the lighting.
KKarns
May 2017
Thanks Ed, you’re one of kind…glad to have you checking in.
Hey Karl, appreciate that and you know how much I value your critical eye.
KKarns
May 2017
Thanks Ed and I plan to work Ho Scale as long as I’m able to see and construct those tiny, minuscule little details without screwing them up to badly!
KKarns
May 2017
Heard that!
KKarns
May 2017
Completed the really nicely detailed water tank casting Brett showcased for BlueSky. What a wonderful design and really finishes off the old Barn in style. I included an overflow pipe to further support the water damage and rot on the back side of the barn and a small steel ladder mounted to the side.
You can just see the old stagnant “water” in the old tank. This was done with some Epoxy and lightly dusted with debris before completly dry.
SteveCuster
May 2017
Looks great Ken. I love small rooftop water tanks and Brett’s castings are the best. I just noticed the flashing on the roof. Excellent detail.
nextceo
May 2017
Hey Ken, Fantastic Work on the Water Tower. Is that hand made or is that a casting?
KKarns
May 2017
Thanks Steve, it is a sweet casting that’s for sure. I love the “patch” on the side of the tank.
Alan, The Water Tank is one of Brett’s remarkable castings that he included with BlueSky and the platform is part of the build instructions.
sdrees
May 2017
Hi Ken,
Great job as always.
kebmo
May 2017
i’d save long and hard for an O scale offering of this kit…
you make it seem so easy ken. your finishes are consistently excellent, and your attention to detail is on a level that’s out of my atmosphere. incredible work.
Wes
May 2017
Great work Ken as always.
So much happening on that roof. My eye keeps finding new things. You definately know how to make delapdated and run down look beautiful.
Bill
May 2017 edited May 2017
Looking good, Ken. Your use of small features to “tell the story” and justify what the viewer sees is very effective (specifically the overflow pipe).
Your wood coloring continues to be among the best in the hobby.
KKarns
May 2017
Thanks Stephen…nice to have you checking in.
Much to kind Kevin, but I thank you and really glad to see you here on the forum. Your work as well as your comradery are a welcome addition.
Hey Ed…Appreciate the modeling sentiment but with respect to music…I couldn’t carry a tune if you put it in a bucket with a handle! I’ll stick to modeling where I can muddle through without bringing embarrassment to myself!
That roof is a bit “busy” isn’t it Wes!..I think I have sufficiently created enough water damage sources to justify the rot…I think if I tried to model a modern, clean, new structure I’d be like a “deer in the headlights”…Thanks for being there Wes as always.
Your modeling prowess always delights me Bill! I continue to learn from you and everyone here. You have a way of breaking down a scene or build and critique it just so. Your final comment caused me to put down my cup of coffee and grab a cold one! Means a lot to me Bill, thanks.
brownbr
May 2017
Very nice. Some green slimy muck would look approproate on the roof and walls where the water would be continuously drippint.
KKarns
May 2017
Thanks Bryan, and I’ll wait on final detailing once I decide what scenic work will encompass the back corner. Regardless the green slime of old water seepage will look really good I agree.
The mix went fine Ed, I just didn’t over do it.
KKarns
May 2017 edited May 2017
Turned my attention to the stone cookhouse casting. This is a three part casting Brett provided with the kit and is a superb piece of work on his part. Wonderful stone detail and will look fabulous once the roof and door are on and it’s nestled up behind the old barn.
Next I’ll be finishing the dtails on the Dry Goods Store roof and assemble the diorama base and “plant” the building…
Karl.A
May 2017
great work, I like it a lot.
KKarns
May 2017
Ed…subtle??..you brother, seem to call it as you see it…a good thing in most circles.
Thanks much.
Appreciate that Karl…The old roof and door with the Barn backdrop will really finish it up as well.
ironmountainlumber
May 2017
Ken, the stone work is exceptional. I am struggling with this on the backwoods water tower kit. Did you use Karl’s tutorial on his railroad camp build? I found it to be excellent and has helped a lot. Any pointers? Did you use washes of acrylics? I like the water tank a lot. It looks like it has a leak around the base and the water in the inside is a really nice touch. From the side it creates a really nice scene with the other pipes in place on the side of the building. One thing I was thinking about for the water tank on my build would be adding some white oxide to simulate a leak. I am not for sure if this would look good or not in 1/87 scale. But may try it. Any ideas on that?
Exceptional job and work. This diorama is just dripping with details and stories to tell.
Jim
Coors2u
May 2017
Wow, just getting back from D.C. on a field trip with the little man. I saw a lot of stone work there and from what I can tell. Yours looks like the real deal Ken. So much coloring and texture. I would swear you carved these out of granite yourself.
mikemettelka
May 2017
I’m with ironmountainlumber… how!? Impeccable as usual!
KKarns
May 2017
Not sure what you mean Ed?
Hi Jim, Appreciate that and always nice hearing from you. I primed the stone resin casting, after glueing the three pieces together, with a light coat of tan colored paint from a spray can. Once this was cured, I colored and weathered with black chalk and a generous rubbing of tyhe chalk into the cracks with a stiff brush. I then hit it with a spray of Dullcoat to fix the chalk. Just when appeared dry I coated it with AI and when that was just dry I took a rag and my finger and dipped the rag in alcohol and rubbed the stone to wear off the dark chalk on all the high spots. I repeated the rubbing a couple of times letting each session dry and then evaluate.
Nice you noticed the simulated water seepage along the bottom of the water tank Jim, nice to know folks are scrutinizing things closely! I think you’re right on track with the water oxidation as this would be prototypical. I would have to give it a go to see but I’d try taking white chalk and lightly start at the top of the edge of the water leak and feather it down and blend with a bit of alcohol and darker chalk as you go down towards the bottom of the tank. Others may have a good method that have tried it…Karl, Bill, guys, any wisdom here?
Thanks again Jim and keep in touch.
Thanks Dustin and sounds like you’re on point with the “little man” and doing the Dad thing in top order!
Well thanks Mike, and the brief tutorial is as above. Really quick and easy and worked well in this situation anyway…
Wes
May 2017
Well that turned out rather nice. The texture and coulour will ad d a nice variation to the wooden barn I think. looking forward to seeing it complete with roof and door. ( full interior will be cool too. HAHA)
ironmountainlumber
May 2017
Hey Ken,
Thanks for the tutorial on your stone modeling. If what I started looks aweful (attempt number 4 I am on ) I am going to try it as you described!!! Thank goodness for xylol for those multiple redos (thanks to Karl for that info).
Jim
KKarns
May 2017
Ahh, same photo session, same color, my eye can’t desern much of a difference?
Wes, thanks much and a bit lack luster with it not being attached to the barn with the roof on but wanted to get a post out to rattle your cages!..Karl had a really nice idea that I will be implementing, but I need to hold off until the diorama is set before revealing it.
Jim, I’ll bet your stone castings looks great. I always learn something on the fails as well as the successes that’s for sure. Send me a picture. Karl is like a walking encyclopedia of modeling thechniques and methods, such a great guy and valuable resource to the modeling community…Oh and he just happens to be one of the premier modelers in the country!
KKarns
May 2017
You’re right Ed…fantastic casting. Have some really nifty plans for this guy thanks to Karl…more on that later…
KKarns
May 2017
Sorry it’s going to take so long as I mentioned I have to have the diorama base set-up and the building glued down etc., before the cook house can be finished…
You showed great restraint Ed!
Jerry
May 2017
Your attention to detail is just beautiful.
Jerry
KKarns
May 2017
Right Ed…I saw those castings and my finger was heading for the “Add To Cart” button and then noticed they were O Scale…sigh…I pick up Brett’s castings whenever I see them on this site, the detail on those O Scalers are just wonderful.
Well thanks Jerry, nice hearing from you.
KCSTrains
May 2017
Ken, I’m catching up. I hesitate to make a comment because your modeling is unbelievable. However, when I look at your water tank and roof, the grunge factor is definitely there, but what is missing to my eye is a bit of a contrasting color (it could also just be the photograph that is fooling me). I would suggest adding a bit of rust to the water tower metal bands. I would use a combination of rust colors, but make the rust seem present. As I travel around the country side, I marvel at how bright rust can appear on old metal structures. I’m not saying make it stick out, but the observer should be able to clearly see it. Just a suggestion. Phil
KKarns
May 2017
Nice hearing from you Phil and thanks for the kind comment. Your point of the rusted water tank bands is well taken and I have modeled that look before. I have now decided that I like the look of banding that appears worn but not rusted. This of course creates less contrast than rusted bands. I have included a picture of an actual tank with similar bands that are dark and worn with the look of damp and “grungy”, which is what I was going for vs dry and rusty. Personal preference kind of thing…
KKarns
May 2017
Found another picture Phil of my water tank from the SWSM Loco and Service Shops build I did with the same banding treatment. More contrast here as I modeled the tank a more brown color than the one I did for BlueSky here.
KCSTrains
May 2017
Ken, of course your preference controls. I prefer the contrast of your Loco tank. I’ve also found in HO, due to its size, you need something to create contrast or the viewer will not see it. For us on the forum, it’s easy to see detail in zoomed in pictures, but we have to ask ourselves, how does it look to the human eye? BTW Ken, it’s your fault. Your modeling is so good that we have to nit pick to have anything to talk about. Phil
