This thread was started in March 2016
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016 in O Scale Builds
okay, i think i can officially drop the N scaler from the title, since all of my n sale stuff has been sold. anyway, i received my kit yesterday (saturday) and tore into it today.
contents of the box:
72 resin castings cleaned of flash an ready for primer:
117 white metal castings ready for blackening:
i’ve read through the construction manual a few times and i’ve come to a decision regarding the castings. i suspect the woodcutter’s shack manual was written some time ago and utilizes older techniques that the dueling shacks manual, so i think i’m going to use the techniques in the dueling shacks manual.
Comments
admin
March 2016
This will be fun to watch! And yes, the wood cutters shack was released in January 2011 so the newer dueling shacks kit has newer techniques. However, the techniques in the wood cutters shack are fantastic. That’s what is so great about evolving techniques, it gives my customers a choice. I can’t imagine using the same techniques for every kit. Not only does everything look the same after awhile but it is awful boring too! Enjoy Kevin!
kebmo
March 2016
i take it i should pick up the paints you recommended then, huh?
Karl.A
March 2016
Great pics Kevin, always STILL amazes me what is in Brett’s kits.
Cant wait to see what you do with this one, its a fantastic kit.
Karl.A
brownbr
March 2016
Only 189 castings? You must have lost one or two.
All kidding aside, you are going to want to drill a hole in the water tank casting, stick a toothpick in it and prime it that way. Otherwise you will miss a side of the tank that you are going to want to show off later. Drill the hole in the bottom of the tank (or even where you are going to put your spout). You will never see the hole once the tank is installed.
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
bryan,
when i get around to that one i’ll do exactly what you said.
i noodled around with the L shaped workbench. it seems to be everybody’s favorite casting and i can see why. it’s real cool to be able to add separate details where you want to.
this is the result after about 90 minutes at the workbench. critiques welcome:
brownbr
March 2016
That looks really good. The wood on the bench has a nice worn-smooth look like a bench that has been used for a long time. The rag and extra tools add to the used look.
Rolling tool handles between your (chalk covered) fingers will give the handles a nice used look. You had a couple of air bubbles on the gear castings in your blackening solution. This is a tough problem to address with castings with a lot of nooks and crannies like this gear. The only solution I have found is to brush them while they are submerged in the blackening solution. This seems to get the most coverage on the casting.
kebmo
March 2016
bryan,
i brushed the heck out of them when they were swimming in the blackening solution. i’ll unglue them and give them another bath and work on the tool handles as well.
admin
March 2016 edited March 2016
Good move Kevin. Hold the casting submerged in the blackener with a pair of old tweezers. While submerged, swirl a small detailing brush around the casting to dislodge any stubborn air bubbles. Check the casting to insure no trapped air bubbles were stuck on while blackening and repeat as necessary. Wash the heck out of it with clean water making sure all the residue from the chemical is removed. I have been using and instructing this method in my kits for over 15 years with tremendous success. Many modelers use this technique today and in fact have no idea where it originated!
kebmo
March 2016
i redid the workbench details and while i was at it i worked up a few more:
Wes
March 2016
wonderful work Kevin.
These O scale details must be a relief to your eyes after all that n scale stuff.
admin
March 2016
Looking fantastic… The “L” shaped bench is a home run!
brownbr
March 2016
Home run is right. You really put some nice finishing touches on the bench. I really like the garbage can as well. It’s grimy in the right places and rusty in the right places.
kebmo
March 2016
wes: it is so much more fun than trying to play around with the microscopic details in N scale. i’m so glad i made the change.
bryan and brett: thanks, i appreciate it.
i try to do a casting every morning before work. this morning i started on the kerosene tank. got it all colored and dirtied up, drilled the hole for the valve and test fit it. buffed the valve and painted it blackened steel (reaper), painted the valve handle red, dirtied it up, picked it up in the tweezers and launched it into the ether. i searched all around the workbench for about a half an hour and couldn’t find it so i called brett. he’s sending me another valve casting. there aren’t too many manufacturers that i know of with customer service like that…
thanks brett
here’s the tank casting:
kebmo
March 2016
installing the legs/bracing on this puppy is much tougher than it looks, but i managed to get 'em on this morning. the manual says to use scraps for the bracing but because i haven’t started on the walls yet i don’t really have any scrap wood, so i took an h.o. 2x6 and used that instead.
admin
March 2016
Perfect!
kebmo
March 2016
i wouldn’t go quite that far…
but i am happy with the way it turned out.
i also did this one yesterday…
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
i did a color test this morning. the top three boards are from the tar paper shack before i gave them the final gray wash.
the next three are a blend of two different ochres.
the three after that are an experiment. i was looking at karl’s build of this kit and his walls were a beatiful silver/gray and he said he got that color by using black chalk. i tried it and i think my attempt at it is too blue, but i’m thinking it might be okay for the porch decking.
the last two are another experiment, this time using black and white. it’s pretty clear that i didn’t use enough white, so i’ll go back at it again tomorrow and see what that does.
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
time to call it a night.
Karl.A
March 2016
As Brett so eloquently says… ‘perfect’.
Such a great job, that bench is a stand alone model all by itself …
I used to hate epoxy, but, after you’ve used it a few times, learned that its very forgiving and learned that you just have to leave it alone (and not fiddle) until tomorrow its a fantastic medium to use, and the best in certain situations, as advised.
Very nice work Kevin.
Karl.A
Karl.A
March 2016
I think that the aged grey boards look great Kevin. Maybe another polish with some steel wool to bring out the ‘silver grey shine’ that modellers have found so elusive for decades. Also if those bottom five boards were mixed up they would blend perfectly together, despite the different colours used, great variation, perfect for a sunbleached decking.
That’s the beauty of Bretts incredible techniques, easy to master, and once you have mastered them after a few builds you can adapt them with slight variations, as you are doing with the colour changes to suit your own taste,
Bretts chalk technique is such a versatile and adaptive one, with so many uses and effects, once mastered by following the instructions in the manuals for a few kits it provides an incredible modeling foundation to build on.
Keep up the great progress.
Karl.A
brownbr
March 2016
Both benches turned out great. Like Karl, I like the gray boards…give the steel wool treatment a try. You will like the effect.
kebmo
March 2016
thanks gents. i feel like i’m starting to get the hang of these techniques (at least i hope so) and i’ll give it another shot with the 000 steel wool and see what happens. frankly i was really nervous about trying nothing but black, but i was happily surprised with the end result, and hopefully i’ll be able to coax that silver/gray out of it.
kebmo
March 2016
stained some siding boards today. i used straight black.
here’s a batch before they were steel wooled:
and here’s how they look after a good steel wool scrubbing:
i’m a disappointed in the way they’re turning out. i think maybe i should hit them again with a touch of white. Thoughts?
brownbr
March 2016
Yes. Add some white and blend it in with alcohol. It will “gray” it up.
kebmo
March 2016
so to try and “fix” what i did to the boards, i swabbed alcohol over them and pinching them in steel wool, pulled the boards through the steel wool and this is the result:
as you can see…quite a few boards have been treated with the black chalk. i’m a little happier with the way they look now, but i was really (over anxious) hoping to arrive at a silvery tone. this is getting closer but not what i was after.
admin
March 2016 edited March 2016
I think those boards look really nice Kevin. You were looking to achieve a color different than what I presented in the manual and you are there. Your boards have character, great texture, etc… and will look wonderful on the shack.
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
thanks. after taking karl’s advise i’m pretty happy with the look of the boards. i dowsed them in alcohol and pulled them through an old sock, and now they look better than what i posted.
the only reason i deviated from the manual was because it called for the same colors as the tarpaper shack and i wanted something a little different. when i saw karl’s build of the woodcutter’s shack i loved his silver/grey look and that what i was trying for. i think i came close.
kebmo
March 2016
the walls are boarded, but they’re a little too “pristine” for my tastes. Not sure what i’m gonna do about that though. i am open to suggestions.
Karl.A
March 2016
Keep in mind that the WCS is his residence, as well as a functional building.
The structure would be kept in good repair and wind proof/ water proof, this structure is not a run down storage shed for discarded items.
Now that the walls are built you could ‘pop’ off a couple of specific boards and give them a split, (not broken, just a split) to add definition, then glue them back in place, or add some extra weathering to certain boards condusive to their placement on the structure, ie next to the oil tank, or under the eaves, etc. Also some weathering along the bottom of the walls due to moisture or ‘backsplash’ from the rain. However, keep in mind the front wall has a deck and details covering a lot of the lower part of the wall. Many subtle possibilities…
Karl.A
brownbr
March 2016
I agree with Karl on applying strategically located weathering (bottom of walls, next to oil tank, etc). I would also throw out there that you could drybrush a nice light gray (barnwood) over the wall to accentuate the edges of the boards. I also like the look of light sanding on my models. It gives a similar look as drybrushing. I use a high-grit paper and lightly sand with the grain.
kebmo
March 2016
i dry brushed “barn wood” (craft acrylic) on all four walls. the front and back walls have some “splits” built into them. when i was cutting out the window/door openings i realized that you can add me to the list that built the front wall backwards (d’oh!). i’m going to lightly go over the walls with sandpaper and then probably dry brush a little more barnwood and maybe a touch of grime toward the bottom of the walls.
i’m a little concerned about getting the window material to match the siding boards since the siding boards are showing so much graining, but i’ll just keep at it until i’m happy with it. that’s up next.
kebmo
March 2016
two end walls boarded…
Karl.A
March 2016
Looking good Kevin, great variety in the tones of colour and the construction is tight and precise as always. Looking forward to the next two walls. (and some more of your great details)
Karl.A
kebmo
March 2016
built the wheelbarrow today. it still needs some weathering, but for all intents and purposes it’s finished. i snapped a drill bit drilling out the hole for axle wire and the hole turned out to be too small anyway, so i drilled it out with a #76 bit and it worked perfectly. i also installed the front and rear windows and tomorrow i’ll detail the walls and hopefully glue them up.
the sled is also complete except for the water tank. i’m waiting for some paint to dry and then i’ll get that one finished too.
Karl.A
March 2016
Wheel barrow looks great Kevin, I love that casting/mini kit from Brett.
I’ve built several of them in various SWSM kits and they always amaze me.
Looking forward to seeing the sled and the rest of your work.
Shovel looks great, nicely worn/polished from shoveling all that sawdust, perfect.
Karl.A
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
i spent an hour and a half after work today building the oil tank base and weathering the tank. i still have a couple more layers of weathering to do to the tank, add the valve, the tank braces, the grab iron at the top of the spout and the pump in the back of the tank, but i thought i’d post these preliminary pics to get some feedback from the pros. (and i like seeing pictures on the laptop instead of the phone:) ).
kebmo
March 2016 edited March 2016
i finished the oil tank this morning. it isn’t glued to the deck yet, and the pump is blackened but not yet buffed and placed, but other than that i’m calling the tank and base finished.
also, i think i may have solved the issue of pics not being visible to the person that posted them. i’ve been able to see the pics in my last two posts, and i think it’s because i haven’t “previewed” them. seems that when i click preview, i can’t see them and if i don’t click preview, boom. there they are…
brownbr
March 2016
I like the crusty tank and the support. Wheelbarrow is nicely done…always one of my favorite little details.
dick52
March 2016
Excellent tank , looks great .
Karl.A
March 2016
Tank looks great Kevin, some surface rust but definitely still in service. A nice balance.
Support framing looks great, cant wait to see how you finsh it off when you get the pump in place.
Karl.A
Karl.A
March 2016
Not so sure about that ladder, dimensions just don’t seem to fit right, for some reason it just looks ‘off’.
Keep up the great work and the updates,
Karl.A
kebmo
March 2016
i think the ladder rungs should have been attached to the “2 inch” side of the rails rather than the 4 inch side. the problem is that i used waterproof wood glue so i don’t know if i’ll be able to separate the boards for a redo. i’ll check my stock and see if i have anything that’ll work.
kebmo
April 2016
i redid the ladder. i’m not sure what i was thinking. it looked like a tree fort ladder from my early days. anyway, i glued the rungs to the 2 inch side of of the 2x4 and think it looks quite a bit better.
it’s just leaning against the tank support. i won’t glue it until it’s time to place it on the diorama.
kebmo
April 2016
made a bit more progress yesterday and this morning.
kebmo
April 2016
fascia is all installed, and the next step…my favorite. individual shake shingles.
i put it on the base to get an idea how it’s going to end up. i like it. alot. this is more fun than a barrel of monkeys…
the flex track needs further weathering, but i don’t plan on doing that until just before i start on the ground cover, woodcutter’s scene.
Karl.A
April 2016
Looking good Kevin, Its so nice when things start taking shape and all that hard work starts showing.
Tank looks great, as I said before.
Once you have the frame finished and weathered/oiled up a little its gonna look perfect.
Looking forward to seeing it with the shake roof on, you just cant beat individual shingles and the process is really quite painless. Fascia looks nice and tight, nicely done.
Karl.A
kebmo
April 2016
well, i cut 400+ shingles today. colored them with browns, gray, ochre and a touch of red. i tried to give it some variety. after they were colored i cut them and put about a third in a burnt sienna/alcohol mix, a third in a sepia/alcohol mix, and the rest in black ink/alcohol. i let them sit in the soup for a while and dumped them out on paper towels to dry. there was such a wide range between the burnt sienna and the black that i ended up putting all of them in the black soup for a few minutes.
here they are right out of the a/i…
there’s another pile of them just off to the right…
Karl.A
April 2016
Great colour range and tones Kevin. Once you get started stabbing and placing those in place you’ll be finished before you know it and all those tones are gonna look great randomly mixed up.
Karl.A
kebmo
April 2016
actually the variance is a little wider than i hoped and i’m going to need to tone them down some.
advise welcome…
i hope to finish the rear roof today and if i do i’ll post a picture so you can see what i mean.
kebmo
April 2016
finished the rear roof today. the contrast in the shingles is much more drastic than it appears in this picture, and i’m looking for suggestions to tone the differences down.
Karl.A
April 2016
Good looking shingle job Kevin, nice and tight and straight. Brett’s guides and innovations in techniques for doing these processes makes modelling such a painless pleasure.
Wait until the entire roof is finished before you make any adjustments to ensure that everything turns out even on both sides and the cap.
Some subtle chalking and blending as I’m sure is described in the manual is all that may be required.
You’re not quite at that point yet though so keep up the good work and show us how the finished roof looks before you do anything to it.
Karl.A
KCSTrains
April 2016
I’ve put on several cedar roofs even though it was HO scale. I found it was easier to put the shingles on without weathering them and then weather them together once installed. Bill has a great tutorial on this in his Quincy Salvage thread. Basically, you apply the various color chalks to the roof and blend with AI if you want an older look or alcohol if you want a newer look. It works great and you get good uniformity. Phil
kebmo
April 2016
i’m finished with the front roof and have 20 or so full sized shingles soaking in alcohol to soften them up. when the cap is finished i’ll post a pic or two.
kebmo
April 2016 edited April 2016
so last night, while the cubs were kickin’ some angel butt, i finished shingling but wasn’t able to bring myself to doing the ridge cap. i’ll do that today.
i did a little more work on the oil tank and decided to place everything on the base to see how things are shaping up. the water tank on the sled is only partially weathered.
today i’ll do the ridge cap and foundation, and then hopefully get started on the 6-pole shed.
i know the tools need to be dirtied up a bit. i’ll do it when i blend the entire diorama with chalks…
kebmo
April 2016
i finished the shack today and built the foundation/porch. to blend the shingles i gave the roof three washes of sepia ink/alcohol and two washes of black ink/alcohol. i think it turned out pretty good. i’m open to suggestions.
i plan on hitting the porch boards with sandpaper and then applying chalk to it. again…i’m open to suggestions.
kebmo
April 2016
and it’s finished!
comments, concerns, suggestions welcome.
brownbr
April 2016
I think it looks really good just the way it is. If you are still looking to blend the shingles together, I would suggest the chalks that Karl mentioned earlier. Apply and brush down to blend and create a nice streaking effect. Go light on them and build up as you like.
kebmo
April 2016
thank you bryan. i don’t think i’ll touch it again until i dust up the completed diorama.
i started on the shed today…
next up, the three trusses and the roof panels
Karl.A
April 2016
Like Bryan, I think it looks good as it is, maybe some very light blending but it certainly doesn’t appear to need much. As Bryan wisely says, add a little very lightly.
Shed is coming together well, nice and square.
Karl.A
kebmo
April 2016 edited April 2016
i think the sepia washes did the trick. i’m pretty satisfied with the way the roof turned out.
since starting on brett’s kits, the words “close enough” are no longer part of my modeling vocabulary. i’ve had a true sander since they came out and i used it more in the past two weeks than i have since i’ve owned it. these kits force you to be precise. n scale offered nothing like this. and the best part of it is, if you follow the manual and take your time, you’ll produce a great model.
i’m really torn on the next one. do i go for the tool and rigging sheds, or jump straight to o’neill’s fabrication? i think i could knock out the sheds with out too much trouble, but o’neil’s seems like it’d be a great project to take on, one that could keep me occupied for a long time.
[edit]… in the last picture i posted of the shack, the rafter tails look like their pointing all different directions, but i think it has something to do with the camera (an iphone). the rafter tails are straight in reality. honest… 
Quote
kebmo
April 2016
i’ ve completed the 6-pole shed.
now that all the building has been completed i’m focusing entirely on the details.
the welding cart has been assembled. the issue? the solder that i have is a bit too large for the hoses.
I went to Ace Hardware to find some thinner solder, and picked up a spool of .32 diameter, but it turns out that it’s too big as well. so…i went to radio shack’s website to see what they have, and they offer a diameter of .015, so i went to two radio shack stores and neither of them had it in stock. i ordered it from their website this morning so as soon it arrives i will cut a couple of pieces, prime them with rattle can gray, and paint one red and one green. then i’ll epoxy them together at one end and epoxy that end to the nozzle, and epoxy the other ends to their corresponding gauges and call the welding cart finished. that’s the last of the big details. all that’s left are the barrels and crates, and then it’s on to the scenery. I’ll probably epoxy the foundation to the base, and start in on the ground cover. i picked up a cuisinart blender at the thrift shop for $6.99 and i’ll use it to grind up bark, pine needles, wood chips etc and apply it over the dirt layer. hopefully this will all happen by the end of this month and quite possibly this project will then be completed, and brett will allow me to order the rigging shed.
kebmo
April 2016
with the recent demise of the blackhawks, i have only the cubs to distract me from the workbench (and to a certain extent, the white sox). i’ve been busy on the details, and i have a question for the forum: in my ham handed way, i managed to glob a bit too much epoxy on the acetylene tank where i was attaching the welding nozzle. does anyone have an effective way of masking that shiny glob?
KCSTrains
April 2016
I always use a dark Rembrandt chalk to dull down the shining epoxy. The color choice is up to you as long as you consider the surroundings to compliment colors. If you have trouble getting the chalk to stick to the epoxy, use a water soluble oil paint as a base (a very small amount) and put a small amount of chalk on that. Phil
SteveF
April 2016
You could try brushing on liquid dullcote by Testors followed by chalks. It comes in a small bottle that can be brushed on without using the spray can version which is also an option. Vallejo and others make a brush on flattening agent that would also work. Hope that helps.
SteveF
kebmo
April 2016
Thanks Steve. I’ll try it this weekend.
Karl.A
May 2016 edited May 2016
If you only have spray dullcoat, spray some into the inside of the cap (or other small recptical) until it pools, then use a small detail brush to apply it where needed to the model.
Epoxy is resiliant to being covered/coated, so it may take a couple of ‘gentle’ applications to get rid of that shine, don’t overwork it, apply and let dry well.
Then use some chalk with a soft brush to blend it in.
Karl.A
kebmo
May 2016
just so no one thinks i’ve been completely slacking on this build, all of the details are finished:
and i’ve started on the scenery. the only things epoxied down at this stage are the foundation, chopping base, and the track.
the dirt was stolen from a local infield and sifted through two different sized strainers giving me a fine and a course dirt. the dirt was applied along with 50/50 white glue/water. i used painters tape to create a dam about 1/8" above the base, and added the dirt up to that level, then doused the dirt with alcohol, and applied the diluted glue:
next up, finding suitable branches and chopping a whole lot of wood. once that’s done i’ll try to make the stacks of wood on a thin a base of styrene that i can then embed in the dirt.
admin
May 2016
Glad to see you haven’t been slacking! Great progress…
kebmo
May 2016
thanks brett.
it’s taken quite a while to get to this stage due to the blackhawks, cubs, and life getting in the way, but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel now that all the details are finished(and the hawks are out of the playoffs) and i hope to wrap this up within a couple of weeks and move on to another one.
kebmo
May 2016
spent some time yesterday playing with dirt…
kebmo
May 2016
if i’m doing this wrong, stop me!
kebmo
May 2016
a bit more progress…
the unused acetylene and oxygen tanks stacked up against the shack. the spent tanks are just leaning on the sled.
the back of the shed:
the back of the shack:
the back of the oil tank:
side of the oil tank:
nobody piped up so i assumed i was doing it right…
kebmo
May 2016
plans for final scenery:
i started chopping firewood and building the stacks. once everything has been added to the diorama, i plan on sprinkling a finer grade of dirt over all of the ground cover and adding quite a bit of debris, re: bark, shavings, pieces of logs etc. after that’s done, a final overall dusting and i’ll call it finished. this is probably not the coolest version of the kit, but overall i’m pleased with the way it’s turning out.
KCSTrains
May 2016
I think you are doing a great job. As I complete the scene I look it over and look for anything that seems to be sticking out or seems out of place. Your green and white barrel is a bit on the bright side, so a little powder will bring that shine down. Keep up the good work. Phil
admin
May 2016
Looking fantastic. That dry, dusty, backwoodsy appeal is front and center. Excellent job thus far…
brownbr
May 2016
Looking good.
You are letting all the luck run out of your horseshoes.
SteveF
May 2016
To your earlier question on dirt, you might want to read through Karl’s discussion entitled “Dirt, Details and Dioramas” in the Scenery category. I read through it and was blown away. It is a wealth of information on making our scenery a fine scale model on its own.
The build looks great, definitely has the woodsy feel. How did you make the logs?
SteveF
kebmo
May 2016
thanks for all the comments and i appreciate you all looking in. steve, the logs were just branches (and i think they’re a bit oversized so i’m going to find something smaller.) i’m not sure what the dirt question you’re referring to is. i have read karl’s dirt, details and dioramas several times and am blown away by his results. i opted to use real dirt as opposed to the sanded grout (although i have some, and i also have durham’s water putty) so much so in fact that i’m considering adding a fence along the rear of the diorama just so i can play with karl’s techniques. i’ve been using ws poly for weeds in the same manner as karl’s for years and i plan on adding a bit more greenery to the diorama as well. a trip to walmart or michael’s is in order because i want to get some dried caspia and floral moss (thanks karl).
i cut a couple of branches from a white pine in my back yard for the firewood stacks, but it’s too wet so i need to find some branches on the ground or possibly cutting a few from a lilac bush and letting them dry out. as karl stated, the bark is thinner on shrubs and probably more prototypical. it’s gonna be a little while before i can call this one finished, but hey…i’m getting closer and it’s only been two months since this started.
Wes
May 2016
That looks so cool. this was my first Sierra West kit and I loved it. So much detail in such a small space.
I disagree with your comment about it not being the coolest version of the kit. You’ve done a job you can be proud of and if it puts a smile on your face when you look at it, then its a very cool version of the kit.
What do you plan next?
kebmo
May 2016
wes,
thanks, i appreciate that. i’m not sure what i’ll do next. if brett has a rigging shed available i’ll do that. if not, i might just wait for the O version of o’neill’s. either way, i’ve dived in to O scale and N scale is a distant memory.
James
May 2016
Very nice work - benches are my favourite thing to paint.
kebmo
May 2016
i enjoyed the benches quite a bit myself. i enjoyed all of the detail in this kit. brett’s details rock!
kebmo
May 2016
i built a fence. my initial plan was to have it behind the woodcutter’s shack, but after test fitting it i decided that there wasn’t really room for a fence considering that the back of the struture is 1.5" from the edge of the diorama base. i’ll save the fence and plan to use it for the rigging shed (if brett still has any).
kebmo
May 2016
for all intents and purposes,the woodcutter’ shack diorama is finished! i’m waiting for a couple of things. a) the glue to dry. i basically doused the entire front side of the dio with 50/50 glue/water (after giving it a good bath of alcohol). wood stacks, strewn wood, bark etc. is all applied and glued or epoxied in place.
b) once all the glue is completely dried i’m going to go back over the entire diorama with rembrandt chalks (browns and greys) to blend it all together.
c) sprinkle small amounts of green ground cover in various place and
d) my daughter to bring her photography equipment over to take a lot of final pics.
the tool shed is next…
kebmo
September 2016
three months later and i’m still waiting for my photographer-daughter to come by and take some photos. in the meantime, my wife took some on the patio with her ipad.
she did the best she could, and its alot better than i could have done. i’d appreciate any criticism or pointers.
life has kinda gotten in the way. i planned on ordering another kit, but that’s on hold for a couple of reasons. a) i need to put money away for a car, and b) i’m building model of a friend of mine’s house that she’s converting into a b & b and i want to present it to her for her grand opening in april.
so i’ll be mia for another extended stretch, but i’ll be back soon…
admin
September 2016
Nice to see your diorama completed! Excellent job.
nextceo
September 2016
That’s ALOTA Wood! Looks really good! Thanks for sharing.
brownbr
September 2016
Nice job all around. You got a nice variety of textures that blend together naturally. I was noticing the wood under the tarpaper, the rust on the square water tank under the shed, and the sacks on the front porch. All are very good.
It appears as though all of the luck is running out of your horseshoe.
admin
September 2016
brownbr said:
It appears as though all of the luck is running out of your horseshoe.
I remember as a youngster hanging out in my Dad’s workshop. He always saved old license plates from his and my Mom’s cars and hung them on the walls along with many, many horseshoes. All but a few were hanging with the open end facing upward to “catch the luck”. But a few - usually over a doorway - were hanging open end down to spill their luck over anyone who walked under it. So when you see these in my kits know I am honoring my Dad’s memory!
brownbr
September 2016
As Paul Harvey would have said “and now you know the rest of the story”. Who knew.
KCSTrains
September 2016
A really good finish. I see you got everything toned down and seamless. I really like your chopped wood. The texture makes it really look like real wood. Great job. Phil
kebmo
September 2016
it is real wood. i found some branches with a diameter of approx. 5/8" and cut them to length and split them with a razor blade.
KCSTrains
September 2016
Nothing like the real thing if you can get it!! Phil
kebmo
September 2016
thanks for explaining that brett. i couldn’t figure out if bryan was making a comment about the build or if it was his signature. now i know the whole story…
next build i’ll have some of the horseshoes facing upward (if o’neills has horseshoes…)
AlexR
November 2019
Kevin,
What did you use for the red shop rags? I’d like to make some.
kebmo
November 2019
tissue paper and red paint
AlexR
November 2019
Cool, thanks. I do garage projects as well and have bags of those red rags… when i was looking through your photos i was like… yes!!! I want some of those 
.
kebmo
November 2019
if you have brett’s paint set you might want to try the fireball orange too.
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