This thread was started in January, 2020
KKarns
January 2020 edited November 2022 in HO Scale Builds
Re-Released October 1, 1998
Comments
vietnamseabee
January 2020
If this is going to be a build thread I’m sitting in the front row…the anticipation is building…
Terry
KKarns
January 2020
Placeholder!..
kebmo
January 2020
i just sat down next to terry. let the build begin. coffee anyone?
BILLR
January 2020
This is the earliest I’ve ever arrived at the Church. Is Reverend Karns even up yet?
KKarns
January 2020
Ha, nice one guys!..there will be a build thread on this kit and just wanted to get my foot in the door as they say whilst I iron out exactly where I’m going with it so the thread doesn’t languish during the decision making process. Things will be a bit different from most, if not all, of the Scotia builds out there. Thoughts and materials are being formulated and collected…more soon…Ken
vietnamseabee
January 2020
Wow…since a ‘build’ is forthcoming, wouldn’t it be great if Brett made the next 25th anniversary kit for HO Scotia Supply
kebmo
January 2020
or an o scale boatyard…
just sayin’,
MarkG
January 2020
Looking forward to seeing your efforts and skill Ken.
Mark
KKarns
January 2020
Thanks Mark, appreciate the support in advance! Will be posting the beginning of the build soon.
KKarns
January 2020
Those of you who have been following my build projects here on the SWSM forum may recall I made the decision to build each and every HO/HOn3 release as it becomes available. In addition, whilst anxiously awaiting Brett’s new releases, I am building all the early kits in the order they were released (see Legacy kits under the HO Scale menu). My last two builds were The BlueSky Company Warehouse (Brett’s first kit) and The Foundry (Brett’s latest kit). Next in line for the new releases will be The Riverfront which Brett is currently working on. In the interim, Scotia Supply (Brett’s second kit) is now on my workbench!
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
Scotia, pronounced like Nova Scotia, was Brett’s second kit first released in February 1996. Prior to the pilot model debut, a prototype was constructed and featured in SierraWest Scale Models first issue of S.W. News Winter 1996 (see figure 1 below). The official release of Scotia Supply was slated for March, 1996 with the actual kit hitting the market in February of the same year, one month earlier than expected! As you can see from the photo much changed from the prototype to the pilot model and that of production. On the pilot and production model a six panel door and covered front porch were added along with a roofing material change and a few other minor upgrades. However, the charm, appeal and utility of design was consistent throughout development…and remarkably remains so today!
(figure1. Prototype for Scotia Supply)
Since that first release, Brett made two additional runs with minor changes with each (pers. comm.). Scotia Supply proved to be a very popular kit with Brett stating he has personally seen upwards of 30 completed builds. Although SierraWest Scale Models was already making a significant impact on the modeling community with the first and highly successful kit with the BlueSky Company Warehouse, targeted advertising in the Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette bolstered popularity of Scotia Supply. A half page, full color, advertisement was featured on page 74 of the Mar/Apr 1996 issue of the Gazette (see below figure 2)
(Figure 2. Ad for Scotia Supply as known today)
As mentioned previous, there were a total of three releases of Scotia Supply. The kit I will be building here is a third release thus the designation Scotia Supply III
(see below figure 3). Next up will be the beginning of the build of Scotia Supply by Dr. Grunge…hopefully not to disappoint…I mean in the grungy sense of the word!..Ken
(Figure 3. Construction manual for Scotia Supply III)
Mountaingoat
January 2020
I can hardly wait!
Robert.G
January 2020
I will follow too …Thanks for the history lesson.
kebmo
January 2020
can’t wait.
Joel
January 2020
Looking forward to this Ken. Dig on in…
KKarns
January 2020
Glad to have a few of you along here. I really enjoy researching the back story of Brett’s kit development. It’s also fodder for getting hooked on each one I build. Despite this kit being proportionally smaller than most of the SierraWest stable, it’s loaded with character and details.
I took a “selfie” (see below) to get things going. I figured that’s what all the young folk are doing these days!
See…I’m building this!
So the wall is green, the box is green, and Scotia Supply is green…so am I’m going to color my version green?..Nope! I, as a rule, never change anything in a kit of Brett’s just for the sake of change. However, most of my decision to go with something other than green was just for that reason…something different. In my defense, and not to be wishy washy, I also felt a lighter color would work better with the stone foundation color I decided on. Rather than a grey toned stone base as most often modeled, I decided on a sandstone type block which tends to wether with a lot of dark areas trending towards almost black. This is in keeping with my “Grungy” persona of course and lends itself to some nice detailing opportunities.
I began this build with my usual think a lot and do very little. Once I perused the manual numerous times, rattled Brett’s cage on several occasions, reviewed all the Scotia builds I could find and “bench raced” on my overall plan…I set to work. The first things that struck me about Scotia is the verticality, the roof, and the wonderful stone first floor or herein referred to as the “base”. The base is a solid resin casting. There are three windows and a bricked up door opening and a large double freight door on the front. These features, among a few others, are cast resin integral with the base casting. In other words they are not individual doors and windows. The three windows are/were (oops!) cast as being boarded over and the freight doors are/were cast in place in a closed position.
So, I made a decision to convert the stone base to give a more active and working section of the structure. “Real” windows and doors. Being a solid resin casting, this presented a bit of a challenge. I set about opening up two of the three boarded over window openings and the large front freight door opening. I will then place windows and a pair of freight doors in the openings. Well this has been long winded so here is an initial pic of the north end of the resin base with the one window opening prepared.
More later…Ken
vietnamseabee
January 2020
I’m along for the ride as well… I can just kick myself…I passed up a Scotia available on eBay a couple of weeks weeks ago at a pretty decent price…now I thinking I should have snapped it up…on well
Terry
KKarns
January 2020
Well yeah Terry!..what were you thinking?
Mountaingoat
January 2020
I;m interested as I have one along with many other SWM kits in the waiting to be built category. Just getting a place and time for modeling has held me back longer than I wanted. In the mean time, I follow these blogs, especially Ken’s compiling ideas and information. Bring it on sir!
KKarns
January 2020
OK Rick, glad your on board! I will be going over very specific techniques as I put this thing together.
Jerry
January 2020
Nice hat!!!
Jerry
TomK
January 2020
I will be following also.
How did you go about opening the resin for the doors and windows?
Tom
KKarns
January 2020
Hey Tom, glad to have you along.
For the two windows and door I first made sure I had windows that would fit the opening once I created it. I then took a new #11 blade and cut the outline as deep as I could then switched to a chisel blade and began scraping out the resin. Once I was below where my recessed window would sit, I drilled several holes about 1/4 inch deep to make removal of the resin that deep easier and used a dremel to remove the remaining resin. I wanted the openings fairly deep to give the illusion that they went all the way through. I will paint the recess black and dirty up my window “glass” so the back of the cavity won’t be visible.
I plan on the windows and doors to be “metal” with an industrial look. The curved wood planked top of the planned double metal doors will be similar to the original casting.
Here is the front of the base with the window and door cavities prepped out.
KKarns
January 2020
Tell ya what…you got to take a deep breath before you jump into something like this!
BILLR
January 2020 edited January 2020
Ken, I love the detailed explanations found in all your builds.
Bill
Jerry
January 2020
Nice hat!!!
Jerry
admin
January 2020
Can’t wait to see this build!
KKarns
January 2020
Thanks Bill, and I plan to keep a fairly detailed account of everything I do on this one.
I guess I need to address Jerry’s comments…despite my better judgement! If it weren’t for the hat Jerry, the picture would be distracting from the reflection and resulting glare…hell to get old my friend!..
I was a bit concerned with your reaction to the trteatment of your awesome resin casting Brett, but I think you are going to like what I’m doing. Besides…the detailed stone and brick work is what makes this casting so special!
kebmo
January 2020
here here!
kebmo
January 2020
or is that hear hear? the debate rages…
KKarns
January 2020
Either way works!..don’t get distracted with my piddling around here Kevin, you’re up to your armpits in alligators with your build going on…great stuff by the way.
KKarns
January 2020
More detail prep work on the resin base. The south side of the main structure base has nearly half the wall in brick and the other half is covered by the side building. The second floor sits atop the base on “wood” planking for now just painted roof brown (see photo). The top of the brick wall is visible and notice how the resin top row of bricks on the right side have little definition of individual bricks. The left 4.5 bricks I used my #11 blade and defined each brick. Can you see this difference in a close up?..sure…could you tell in the finished model with just looking?..probably not. However, this is the type of detail mind set that I enjoy…more later, Ken
Detailing resin casting to define individual bricks along top row.
kebmo
January 2020
thanks ken. i always have time enough to keep a close eye on your builds though, so much to learn…
brownbr
January 2020
Nice start. Bet that work made a mess.
KKarns
January 2020
Well good Kevin, appreciate that.
Wasn’t too bad Bryan until I got to the dremel work. and made sure I wore a particulate respirator so I didn’t inhale the resin dust! I always seem to start off really slow though, at least it seems to me that way. I have the base colored and working on finishing up the bricks and will post again soon…Ken
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
Got the base casting started with the finish I was looking for. I started by Priming the walls with a tan spray paint. Once cured I then used chalks with dark brown and black followed by a dose of AI to get the chalk down in the cracks between the stones. Once dry I then coated the stones with some more dry chalk and a light spray of dull coat. Once dry I went over the surface with a rag and alcohol to bring out the high spots…kind of a reverse dry brushing.
More detailing to do on the base but I’m going to wait until it’s attached to the foundation. Other walls next time…Ken
KKarns
January 2020
Oh, and I have a detailed picture of the walls that I have been working on…
Well…maybe not so detailed!..bracing is work…isn’t it?
Mountaingoat
January 2020
Slow start? You’re moving right along. Love seeing your work with good descriptions. Extremely useful. Thank you.
admin
January 2020
Love the coloration on the stone!
Robert.G
January 2020
Me too Ken.
SteveCuster
January 2020
Looks great so far Ken. I really like the color of the stone.
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
Good to hear Rick, appreciate it.
Thanks Brett. I had sent a picture of a cut sandstone block wall to Brett to get his take on my idea of doing the same with Scotia. Brett gave a thumbs up of support which means a great deal and so I went “all in” as they say!
OK Robert…seems I’m on the right track.
Well hey Steve!..I was hoping you’d get in here on this. My build will be quite different than all others I have seen, starting with the stone base. Glad you like the look.
For those of you who may not have seen it, our own Steve Custer did a fabulous build of Scotia not long ago. His build set the bar for this kit. I have not seen a Scotia build of the quality that Steve produced and chronicled here on the SWSM Forum save for the Pilot Model done by Brett. Make sure you check it out under “HO Builds”.
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
I have completed the work on all sides of the resin stone base. I posted the one side already but will re-post it with comments on each side as we go around the structure base.
This is the rear of the structure base. The cast resin boarded up window has a nice detail of corrugated at the upper right. Cool detail but hard to see so I added another piece going the opposite direction below it. I think once I did that, the upper one jumps out more. I’m going to have a few more details back here once planted on the foundation.
Here is the east side of the base. The cast resin boarded up window was opened, as described earlier, to allow for a recessed metal framed window. The bricked over doorway was colored above and below with aged concrete and weathered with chalks. The side pillars were colored as wood.
Above the door at the center of the concrete arch I added a detail to look like a hanging lamp once resided there. I secured a very small, thin walled metal pipe from my stock, weathered it rusty and placed two very small pieces of wire inside and glued on the back side. I then drilled a hole into the resin casting and then picked and rounded the edge of the hole with my #11 blade. I then took a bigger pipe and placed it over the smaller hole and rocked it back and forth to make round indentations around the small hole to look like a larger fixture was there. I then carefully rusted with Winsor Newton burnt umber and raw umber Gouache with a small detail brush. I then inserted the pipe with the wires sticking out a bit and glued in place. I will go over my brick coloring technique on the next wall.
Back to the north wall. The boarded up cast resin window was opened as was the cast double freight doors. I added the supports and header in the door opening with scale
6’ x 6’ stripwood. I then added the wood planking above with scale 2’ x 6’ boards as per the design of the original resin casting. I will then be adding simulated steel doors and a recessed metal window.
Brett describes in the Scotia Manual regarding brick work as follows “there are as many ways to color brick and add mortar as there are modelers” This is so true and my method here is likely the least used! First off, I tend to like my brick a bit on the darker and muted color palate rather than the bright classic brick red/orange spectrum. I used just three colors on my brick; Boxcar Red, Ruddy Brown, and Roof Brown. The next step here is not for the faint of heart! I color my entire brick wall with aged concrete. Once cured I then paint each brick radomly with the three colors. I use no mortar and use the aged concrete in the joints to look like the mortar joints. Why do I not use mortar? The joints in resin 1:87 brick work is quite shallow and filling that joint with mortar would decrease the definition of the brick work…my opinion!
Here is the west wall with the the brick work showing the nicely contrasting bricks and joints. After the bricks are painted the entire wall is weathered with chalks to tone down the colors. The picture shows the bricks very monotone, they are more varied looking in person.
Picture of the top row where I scribed in the individual brick joints described earlier. This also serves to show the variation in colors used. Next will be the completed base with windows and doors installed…Ken
Joel
January 2020
Fantastic stuff Ken. Love the details, the wood weathering, the bricks (what a simple approach).
Jerry
January 2020
Ken said:
I guess I need to address Jerry’s comments…despite my better judgement! If it weren’t for the hat Jerry, the picture would be distracting from the reflection and resulting glare…hell to get old my friend!..
Your right and I’m sure Ed could verify that for us!!!
Jerry
Robert.G
January 2020
You’ve just started and it’s getting grungy already .. 
It is a very nice casting !
brownbr
January 2020
Love it.
kebmo
January 2020
carry on sir…
KKarns
January 2020
Currently doing just that! Walls are nearing initial detailing and weathering completion…post soon…Ken
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
Front window installed. Made this one a hing out style…treated as per the other window. All that remains for the first session with the stone base are the two freight doors and an overhead gooseneck light…see the little hole…Ken
kebmo
January 2020
it looks medieval. very cool.
Mountaingoat
January 2020
Love what you are doing.
Robert.G
January 2020
Keb, this is just what I was about to say. Reminds me of a dungeon…
KKarns
January 2020
Thanks much Joel. How’s things up north with the prince under foot?
Best compliment ever Robert, to call me grungy!
Appreciate that Bryan.
Kevin/Robert, I think the stone arch is the main culprit in giving it that medieval look. And I will be installing two freight doors not a draw bridge!
It’s starting to comer together both in my mind and on the bench, thanks Rick.
brownbr
January 2020
I think the wood above the double doorway would look good with some peeling paint. White would contrast too much, but perhaps an earthy green to tie into the roof.
TomK
January 2020
Ken,
I like the draw bridge idea with two dragons on each side breathing fire…
Tom
KKarns
January 2020
Ah…but the roof isn’t going to be green!
brownbr
January 2020
Green schmeen. I stand by my peeling paint comment.
Blue would look nice also.
KKarns
January 2020
Currently under advisement…
KKarns
January 2020
Bryan, your idea of the peeling paint on the archway above the freight doors has moved from being under advisement to planning stages…I like it!
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
I am still working on the gooseneck above the freight doors and the doors themselves. I have however, finished up the walls of the main structure as follows:
Braced the walls prior to coloring and detailing. Wire brished the clapboard siding to create the textured wood grain. I then added nail holes. I like nail holes despite them being out of scale for 1:87 as long as they are subtile. I do them prior to any coloring or staining so the holes fill with either and get toned down as they naturally would be. I also detailed the siding with various cracks, splits, added some butted board ends sparingly, lifted a few pieces, again sparingly. I then stained the walls with fairly strong AI. Once dry I then painted the walls with SW Bone which is a warm white using the resist method with mineral spirits to create the peeled paint. I then finished it up with weathering with chalks.
The completed front wall with the side trim also attached.
The west wall, note the rotted missing boards on the lower left. This is a technique I developed on my BlueSky build and described in detail there. The main issue that must be dealt with in creating this detail is the tickness of the scribed siding. If you simply cut a section out and glue the studs to the inside the thickness will be obvious and not realistic. I thin down the back side of the siding until its only as thin as a piece of the siding would have been. Then I build my studs and cover the inside with stripwood.
The rear wall of Scotia. Of note here about nail hole spacing. Studs would most often be placed on 24" centers. If you place nail holes on a model at 24" the wall would appear full of nail holes! So I place my nail holes per Bretts templates as they will give the best look without overdoing it. However, when I have a stud showing I make sure I run a row of nail holes right on the stud line…see above.
East wall ready to go…more later…Ken
kebmo
January 2020
looking good swami…
Mountaingoat
January 2020
The little extras that make all the difference. Love it.
brownbr
January 2020
Yeah! I thought you did a nice job with the wood effect but it just seemed to blend into the stonework.
brownbr
January 2020
And the clapboard looks fantastic.
admin
January 2020
FANTASTIC… this will look amazing on top of the stone wall.
Robert.G
January 2020
Allready so much detail on such a small surface. Great work. As expected of course… 
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
Really glad to get the thumbs up Brett. My biggest concern with changing up the color on Scotia was a tie in of the walls and the stone base. I knew I wanted white but a stark white would not have worked and of course I don’t have to be talked into going “grungy” as it’s a given with me!
Thanks Kevin.
It really does Rick. I have said it before and its worth repeating. Any single semingly insignificant detail by itself may not have a great impact. However, when you start combining those small details together they have a significant overall impact on the build…in my opinion.
Appreciate that Robert.
I would like to use Bryan to set an example here…sorry to single you out my friend!
It hit me that the last few exchanges of comments between Bryan and I is exactly what I love about this forum and really what a modeling forum is all about. I’ll take you through my thoughts…
I posted a picture of the base of Scotia where I cut out the cast resin freight door, archway, and a couple windows. Above the freight doors I used strip wood to match the archway in its original design that was cast in place with resin (see above). I stained and weathered the wood and felt pretty good about the look. Bryan made a comment that he felt some peeling paint on that arched section would look good and function to highlight the structure.
I posted that I was taking his idea “under advisement”…did I just move on and dismiss the idea?..hell no…I chewed on the concept, and even called Brett to get his take and he agreed with Bryan. So, with that in mind I posted that Bryans’ comment was now under the planning stages (see above). Well, it has now moved once again to the implementation stage. If not for this forum and folks willing to share ideas and not be offended or dismissive of suggestions, this small detail would not have been realized. I didn’t say I liked it just because of a suggestion but because I think it is the right look.
So thanks much Bryan and Brett, appreciate the input.
Archway with subtile peeling and old white paint. Toned down with chalks. Once the light fixture is installed I think it will prove the right call here. What tone of white did I use?..FolkArt craft paint Ivory White (see displayed color on thumb above!)
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
I have added the gooseneck lamp above the freight door opening. I detailed the lamp as follows:
This is a styrene one piece gooseneck. I started by dishing out the flat bottom of the reflector to a concave shape with a drill bit and then with sandpaper.
I took a styrene rod and sanded the end rounded and then drilled a hole in the center to allow the lamp support arm to pass through. This would form the beasel. I then cut a thin slice off the rod tip that was rounded with a razor blade.
Primed the entire casting with a brown spray paint and let cure. I then painted the support arm and reflector with SW Bone (off white) and the shade with Brilliant Green. These areas were weathered to reflect rust and peeling and chipped paint. I did the same with the beasel. To simulate a light bulb, I mixed some 2-part Epoxy and over several appIications created the clear bulb. I then slid the beasel over the arm and then glued the arm into the hole in the wall and then slid the beasel down and firmly glued to the wall.
Finished gooseneck lamp.
Completed installation.
brownbr
January 2020
Glad to be of help…or hinderance. I think the paint job helps to accentuate the arch.
kebmo
January 2020
it sure does, and ken left just the right amount of color on it. it’s perfect.
Mountaingoat
January 2020 73.131.18.188
Unbelievable! Looks fantastic.
SteveCuster
January 2020
Really looks grimy Ken. Great job so far.
KKarns
January 2020
For sure Bryan and thanks again for your insight!
Thanks Kevin…one of those take a deep breath and do it…
Hey Rick, appreciate that.
Glad your checking in Steve. I think about and review your build of Scotia all the time.
KKarns
January 2020
I finished and installed the two freight doors. These are extras from The Foundry kit, repurposed here to good effect I think. Gives it a very industrial look. Next up will be the second floor windows and doors.
TomK
January 2020
Very nice..
KKarns
January 2020
Thanks Tom.
Robert.G
January 2020
It has already the ‘Ken’ signature and it has only just begun… Great work , pleasure to follow.
TomMich
January 2020
Just jumping in here as I’ve been out of town. Nice work. Really like the new door configuration! The white above the doors really adds to the overall effect. Please don’t take this as a criticism, but as I look at the stone walls, they look sort of dark and flat. The last picture with the doors added they look lighter and better. Have you considered ever so lightly dry brushing the stone walls with our ivory white or an antique white? This may give it more depth. I think it might also blend a bit with the color of the painted arch.
The lamp is killer! Love the rusted peeling paint.
TomMich
January 2020
Ed, I took a long time to hit the “Post Comment” button.
brownbr
January 2020
Tom, I think comments like this are most welcome by any modeler. Ken is a fine modeler. What makes him so is that he is always looking to improve. He may or may not take a suggestion but in my experience he has always welcomed them.
I have ribbed him a couple times about things…remember the HO scale weld seams. What a hoot that was.
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
All right…break it up! I’m right here and can hear you…
Tom, gee wiz, never hesitate to jump in with any suggestion or comments regarding anything I’m doing, I love it! That’s what this forum is all about. If I wasn’t soliciting for suggestions, comments, improvements, etc…I’d just post the finished build and say here it is..done…with that said…
Tom, thanks for your perusal and appreciate the thumbs up on the old peeling paint above the door, Bryan nailed that for sure. Going into this project I knew I wanted the stone work to look like old cut sandstone blocks. I also knew that I wanted a darker effect and those sandstone blocks tend to age very dark over time. I do think they are a bit dark and monochrome but all the pics so far have been indoors due to crappy weather outside. The last picture is more what they really look like. I can go lighter by removing the darker areas with alcohol and a rag…like I mentioned earlier, almost a reverse dry brushing. I don’t dry brush much and thus not that confident in my skill level doing it. I know it can be used to good effect. Let me get the walls up and add some natural sunlight shots and see what you think.
Oh and Bryan…may your weld seams never hold paint and always look way too shiny!! hehe…
Ken
Jerry
January 2020
Beautiful weathering on those walls.
Jerry
admin
January 2020
Love the peeling paint above the doorway. The white clapboard walls and front porch will completely change the way the stone walls appear. I believe the darker stone is just right as all of the white coloration surrounding it once complete will subdue its dark intensity… prefect compliment. Ken is particularly adept at modeling the “long game”.
TomMich
January 2020
Ken, thanks for the being open to comments. The walls in the last pic with the doors added are lighter and look much better. The white wood in the arch over the door really does enhance the effect and I also think the white siding will really enhance the whole structure and make it more cohesive. Your brick coloring is also outstanding. I am looking forward to the rest of the build and seeing everything coming together.
KKarns
January 2020
Thanks Jerry, had a lot fun working those up.
Perfectly said regarding the “method to the madness” as they say. Thanks much for your thoughts here Brett. Things are coming together better than I expected seeing as how I went off the reservation a bit on this build.
Thanks Tom and truely appreciate your input and following along here. Make sure you let me know if you think the coloration of the stone works better once the walls are up and porch on…
KKarns
January 2020
I have finished up the windows and will post those soon. I did decide to scratch build the front door of the second story. I completed the frame work (see below), and working on the actual door now. More later…Ken
kebmo
January 2020
that’s gonna look really great sitting on top of the stone walls.
Robert.G
January 2020
Very nice weathering on that wall Ken.
Joel
January 2020
Great work. Love the rot on the bottom of the trim. Always a pleasure to follow along with one of your builds.
TomMich
January 2020
The weathering of the wood is superb! Especially the ends of the boards that frame the door. Also the weathering on the bottom right corner of the wall.
admin
January 2020
Those walls are up to your usual level of grunginess…
Now let’s see them on top of the stone wall, gonna be fantastic!
KKarns
January 2020
I’m anxious to get the walls up for sure Kevin…steady as she goes.
Thanks much Robert.
Hey Joel, nice hearing from you and appreciate that.
Thanks Tom, and that heavy weathering will continue around the corner on the adjacent wall…
I think the match is going to be good…and thanks for all your input Brett greatly appreciated as you know.
KKarns
January 2020
Windows and scratch built door in place on the front wall. Love working with Brett’s windows. So much more realistic than thick plastic ones. Close to getting the walls up…
Dirty painted fingers for effect only…
sdrees
January 2020
Just great Ken,
Robert.G
January 2020 edited January 2020
The door is very well done. In HO scale !!! Fantastic. Indeed much better than the plastic ones. I hate plastic…
brownbr
January 2020
Very nice.
Where’s the keyhole for the door?
kebmo
January 2020
looks great. i can’t wait to see the walls together and on the base.
KKarns
January 2020 edited January 2020
Thanks for checking it out Stephen. The door is actually a very dark green, almost black (Pullman Green)…so I do have something green on my Scotia!
Thanks Ed.
Appreciate that Robert. Had fun building it.
Its there Bryan…can’t you see it?
I know Kevin I’m slow…Should be putting the walls up soon.
Ken
kebmo
January 2020
didn’t mean to come across as rushing you. please…take your sweet time. seems the longer it takes the better it looks. imagine that.
KKarns
February 2020
Just messin with you Kevin…
I decided to put in a door and a flight of stairs coming down to the concrete loading dock on the rear of Scotia. I wanted the door to open in and have it slightly open to add interest. I made a false floor and will be adding the door trim, a light, and possibly a small roof overhang…not sure yet.
kebmo
February 2020
very cool.
Mountaingoat
February 2020
You just keep the great ideas coming, then implementing them.
TomK
February 2020
Ken,
How did you go about getting the rotted wood effect?
TomK
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Kevin…
Appreciate the positive thoughts here Rick. I’m always thinking through the build and looking at ideas that I like to model, are new techniques for me to learn and try out, and those that enhance the great designs already inherent to the kit. Matter of fact, I just finished up a technique I developed for detailing foam board to look like well aged and deteriorating concrete. This came about as I prepare my base for my Scotia build here. This will be featured later on.
Tom, I did a tutorial of sorts on detailing stripwood here on the forum, but don’t recall if I covered what I do with clapboard or scribed siding. To get the rotten wood effect I start by taking my fresh clapboard wall and use my wire brush to give it some grain. I only go in one direction with by wire brush as I have found this goes a long way in avoiding the “fuzzies”. I set the brush down and drag it one direction and repeat as needed to get the grain I want. I then do my nail holes if any. I don’t do any further detailing until the the wood is colored and essentially finished just like in the real world. Except the nail holes. I do two different types of nail holes depending on where they are. If they are on the edges of the walls or around door/window openings, I use what I call split wood nail holes. Many times when you see a nail driven into the ends of siding over time it splits the wood out to the edge. To recreate this, rather than just put a single dimpled round nail hole, I push my tool (thin pointed awl) all the way through the wood and then drag it out to and through the edge of the siding creating a split. So you get the look of an initial nail hole then a split. Of course I don’t do everyone like that just here and there and more towards the bottom where the wood would be more deteriorated.
The nail holes are the only detail I do other than the graining before the final coloring/finish. That way they are filled with paint or whatever is used for final finish before any weathering occurs just like the real world. It also serves to tone down the nail holes and make them subtile and hardly visible…but there. They should be faint enough that if you get just the right angle on the wall you can see um…sort of…that’s what I like.
To get more rotten look, I just pick and remove small amounts of wood at the edges and areas of interest with my #11 blade. Then the areas I want to look more deteriorated I go at it with browns and black chalks which give the apperance of less stable and rotting wood. This discoloration has a dramatic and instant effect…but should be used sparingly and thought out carefully as to where it would normally be. To have the bottom corner of one wall well wethered and rotting and the same corner on the adjacent wall not treated would look out of place and unnatural (what I call “wrap around effect” and is a cool technigue).
Long winded response but hope this helps. Thanks for the inquiry and I did not re-read this whole thing so unless spell check caught it…???
Ken
kebmo
February 2020
nice info, and i think the only word you mis-spelled was subtle.
i’ll have to try building something just using the clapboard siding, instead of siding over it. it would have been a time saver on my current project.
KKarns
February 2020
Corrected the spelling error, thanks Kevin
KKarns
February 2020
Couple of quick pictures of the second floor installed on the stone base. More details are to be done here but wanted to give a quick update.
admin
February 2020
Wow that looks great. The faded dingy white clapboards suit the stone wall coloring.
Mountaingoat
February 2020
Dingy stone, great upper walls, The mods look like they all belong. Wow.
vietnamseabee
February 2020
Appears to be up to your usual grungy standards. Looking gooood!
Terry
brownbr
February 2020
The color contrast is nice. Random boards popping out is a bonus.
Jerry
February 2020
Beautiful coloring on the walls goes really well with the stonework.
Jerry
kebmo
February 2020 edited February 2020
that looks excellent. i wish i could model that well…
Robert.G
February 2020
Very nice color and weathering . Looks really great Ken.
SteveCuster
February 2020
Very nice Ken. Looks excellent!
TomMich
February 2020
Great work Ken! Coloring compliments the stone walls very well. I like it much better than the usual green.
KKarns
February 2020
Brett,
It did work out well with the match, which I was a bit concerned with going into it. I actually colored the stone base before attempting to get the wall color and finish the way I had invisioned. I knew a stark white wouldn’t cut it and not my style to do much of anything stark!..Thanks for your encouragement as I moved forward.
That’s right Rick, I really only put in those modifications that I feel I can effectively use to enhance the structure and at the same time build the things I like. I build on the kits strengths which is what drew me to SierraWest scale Models structure kits in the first place. With a SierraWest kit, I have never said to myself “now that’s not done very well I can fix that”…but rather…“now that’s a cool feature, I think I’ll try and Dr. Grunge that up a bit”!..and thus it goes…
Thanks Terry, grungy is always a great compliment.
As I mentioned to Brett here, I was nervous about getting the two so very different materials to work with each other…thanks for the perusal and kind words Jerry.
Ed, we all do!..hehe. Just messin with you Jerry. Thanks much Ed.
Kevin, thanks for always being there for support and encouragement. We all have our style and our “thing”…I would venture to say that many modelers, if they had to model as pathetically slow as I do, would end up walking out into traffic! I do appreciate the sentiment but stop it!
Appreciate that Robert. Coming from you it means a great deal…
(ie..one who gets the grunge!)
Hey Steve, you are lurking out there my friend. Thanks much and what are you working on these days? Great web-site by the way. Have to get in there a bit more as I just discovered it a few weeks ago.
Tom, I am really glad I decided to go with a different color scheme to see if I could make it work. It just further illustrates the versatility of Brett’s kits. Gives it a whole different feel I think…not better not worse, just a freash perspective…only a 24 year old kit!
Ken
SteveCuster
February 2020
Thanks Ken. I put it together just to display some of my projects in one central location without them getting lost to forum archives. I’m working on a few things but we have a new baby so I really can’t get much done. I had planned on starting the foundry but my modeling time is so spotty I decided to wait till I know I can work on it more than 5 minutes every 3 days.
KKarns
February 2020
Well you dog! Congrats there Steve, well done. Hey don’t knock it that’s about my modeling speed!
Regarding the web-site…that’s a great idea and I thought of doing the same thing a time or two. I should get with you when I’m ready to pull the trigger on it to get some pointers.
vietnamseabee
February 2020
What is the link to Steve’s website?
Terry
SteveCuster
February 2020
Terry, the address is “Scalemodelworkshop dot com”
My Scotia and O’Neills builds are in the completed section.
vietnamseabee
February 2020
Wow…very nice, Steve…some bodacious modeling there and a nice variety of kit manufacturers
Terry
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
I have been working on the foundation and diorama base. I plan to detail the interior of the side building and as a result will be having the loading dock doors on the end almost fully open. Issue is, there is not enough room at the end of the resin casting for the doors to be open. In the following picture the pencil lines are where the open doors would be which leaves only a small portion of the dock to work with (figure 1.)
(figure 1.) Note pencil marks at end of doors if positioned open.
I decided to carefully cut the resin casting and make a new loading dock with the extra length I need (figure 2.) I am also putting in a set of stairs in the back leading from the back door I installed down to the loading dock. The stair landing will attach to the loading dock so I had to make the new dock a bit wider as well as longer. I made the new dock out of 3/4 inch styrafoam (figure 3.)
(figure 2.) Loading dock separated from the foundation.
(figure 3.) New loading dock from 3/4 inch styrafoam. Note the wider as well as longer dimension. I decided to sink the completed dock down into the foam diorama base to the appropriate height as per original. I am planning some areas of elevation change around the dock so this allows me to carve away the foam diorama base up to the dock anywhere and the finished foam of the dock will be exposed creating the effect of the dock concrete being quite thick top to bottom.
Here is a technique I developed to weather foam board to look like deteriorated and worn concrete. I carefully paint, in my case it was Floquil Concrete, the edges of the foam board. The petroleum distillates begin to effectively eat away at the foam board creating a very convincing deteriorated concrete look (figure 4.)
(figure 4.) Portion of foam board with Floquil Concrete lightly painted on and allowed to eat away at the foam. The coat of paint should be done very lightly to control the amount of dissolving. I paint some areas and leave other surfaces without it to give the apperance that some of the smooth surface is retained.
Here is a different side of the same foam board with preliminary coloring done.
Finished top surface of the new loading dock. This was first colored with various colors of craft paint in mostly grays and earth tones followed by chalk and AI weathering until the right amount of grunge was obtained.
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
Foundation and foam loading dock installed in and on the diorama base. Splotched paint on resin foundation will not show and is covered by the main building.
Robert.G
February 2020
VERY convincing concrete !!!
CarlLaskey
February 2020
Good idea Ken
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Roberet, particularly coming from the “concrete” master!
Carl, Actually developed it by accident when trying to paint foam with the “oil” based paint. I started painting a piece and of course ruined it when the paint ate right into it. But I liked the texture it left. I then started experimenting with very light applications, it became a nice technique. Best used when you are going to see a good bit of the vertical surface and edges. I think it would be too rough and worn for a horizontal surface.
kebmo
February 2020
unless your trying to replicate my 50 yr old patio…
brownbr
February 2020
Great coloring on the concrete.
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
Do you get an audible “terrain, terrain, terrain” warning when you go out on your patio Kevin? lol.
Thanks Bryan. Just one of those play around until you get the look you want kind of projects.
admin
February 2020
looks amazing!
kebmo
February 2020
no,but you could sprain an ankle with all the spalling…
KKarns
February 2020
Hey Brett, thanks much. When we discussed the back stairs, the last pic shows the concrete dock extending beyond the back edge of the foundation. The stairs will come down and join here and the foot traffic would then go right in the back door of the side building. I will also have a set of stairs leading directly off the dock straight back from the back door of the side building.
What’s cool is the dock concrete foam board is still 3/4 inch deep and sits in a cut out. I had to shim the bottom to the correct elevation with the resin foundation piece. But as I carve out the foam up next to the loading dock it will continue to expose the concrete. I just consulted my terrain expert, Alan Hubbard, to get schooled on building varying elevation of the terrain. Got a really cool idea on this and can’t wait to get started.
Ken
Mountaingoat
February 2020
Simply amazing. Love it.
TomMich
February 2020
Concrete turned out amazing! Really looks like concrete. Can’t wait to see how it all comes together.
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Rick, having a ball as usual…working on one of Brett’s kits…is as good as it gets!
Appreciate that Tom, and I was happy with how it turned out. I got a good match to the resin “concrete” foundation.
KKarns
February 2020
“Well done Ken”. Thanks Ed! The rest…???
KKarns
February 2020
Ahh…I see said the blind man. Appreciate your colorful insight Ed, one of a kind you are my friend! Thanks again.
KKarns
February 2020
Have been working on the Side Building and the roof for Scotia. As I have mentioned in previous builds of mine, I like to encorporate modeling techniques that I haven’t tried before. So with Scotia, I decided to try a slightly different paint weathering technique that I have used in the past, albeit sparingly, and never on an entire structure..and that is a checked type paint peel. That is where the paint, usually due to heavy coats, begins to have a multitude of cracks and then the paint starts to peel off the wall.
I prepared my clapboard wall as previously described. I then applied a very thin coat of clear crackle paint. Once this was dry I applied a coat of white crackle paint. As this paint dries it checks and cracks just like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here’s an almost finished wall utilizing this technique:
I experimented of course before working up the actual walls with the following tips for anyone wishing to try this:
I firstly applied the white crackle directly to the clapboard and it was a bit hard to get it to flake off the way I wanted. The clear first coat prevents the top coat from sticking as much and the white flaked off nicely. On my first try I applied the white top coat and just let it dry and the leading edge of the clapboard was of course covered in paint and when scrapping this off it fuzzed the wood too much for my liking. So, I then tried painting the white on a small area followed immediately with a swipe of my thumb or finger which removed all the paint from the leading edge leaving paint in the lower parts. Worked perfectly.
KKarns
February 2020
Here is a better close up…
Mountaingoat
February 2020
Wow. I will have to try this. That looks fantastic.
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Rick. I was happy with the results particularly the small size of the “checking”. I was affraid the cracks would be too large to pass for 1:87, so I was pleasantly surprised.
sdrees
February 2020
Looks good Ken, WOW!!! I tried the crackle paint on one of my projects, but the checking was very small and then it was hard to see.
Robert.G
February 2020
Even when I blow up the photo much larger than the actual HO scale, it still looks fantastic. This is a fine technique which I use aswel. A real treat it is to follow your thread . Thanks Ken, great work.
SteveCuster
February 2020
The paint chipping looks great Ken. I’ve seen lots of people use this technique for larger scales but never seen it done convincingly in HO. What brand is the crackle paint?
admin
February 2020
Wow, might be your best work…
TomMich
February 2020
The crackling in the seams really looks good. I especially like the door frame.
Robert.G
February 2020
admin said:
Wow, might be your best work…
I agree with Brett, but all your work is just top notch.
Joel
February 2020
Sorry Ken,
Just catching up. Amazing concrete and love the peeling paint. I can never get it to behave. I’ll have to try your technique. Really itching to see this come together. So much detail and so well thought out and then executed to perfection.
BILLR
February 2020 edited February 2020
This has been a great build to follow! I’ve already added notes to my index for the concrete; and now the crackle paint. Great reference material… as always. You set high standards for all of us; and to think that this is all done in HO.
Bill
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Stephen. The checking as it stands after drying is very hard to see. What improves the visiblt cracks and checking is a final AI wash. This of course darkens the cracks and makes them much more visible.
Robert, appreciate that and back at ya regarding following threads as I feel the same about yours!
Thanks Steve. I agree, I was skeptical on how it would turn out in 1:87. As I mentioned I was afraid the cracks would be too large to work for HO. So not sure but the clear coat underneath combined with the product may have made the difference. More experimenting would be required to find out?
Clear Crackle Paint Undercoat: Distress Crackle Paint, Clear Rock Candy, by Ranger
Crackle Paint Top Coat: DecoArt MEDIA Crackle Paint, White
Thanks Tom, I really like the look and specifically wanted a slightly different finish than what I used on the main structure for a bit of contrast. I was careful to not make it drastically different as the roof materials I am going to use may provide further contrast. Haven’t decided for sure what the roof materials will be.
Ed, I love it…“doing dirt”…I’ll take it and thanks much my friend.
Well Joel, glad to hear from you buddy and no worries you check in whenever…I know you’re out there! You know how I feel about you and your modeling…so the kind words here mean a great deal…thanks.
Hey Bill, glad the info. is of some use. I tend to ramble on about stuff particularly when I’m up to my armpitts in bench work!
KKarns
February 2020
Certainly appreciate the sentiments here Brett. I have said many times before, your kits bring out the modelers best work. What’s my favorite SierraWest Scale Model kit?..the one I’m currently working on!..thanks for all you do and have done for the modeling community and for providing the finest fine scale modeling kits on the planet…
brownbr
February 2020 70.160.18.68
I like it. The individual flakes are out of scale, but I don’t think it matters because the whole wall works.
Robert.G
February 2020
Bryan, if they would be exactly in scale, they hardly would be noticed. But that is the case with many details , even in O scale.
I agree, it works well on the wall. He did a great job on that one…
KKarns
February 2020
I agree Robert, it’s the same issue with 1:87 nail holes. When modeling at this scale a lifeless plain looking wall would not look right even though all the texture, nail holes, peeling paint, etc would be barely visible if at all In 1:87 if to true scale. I go by what looks good to my eye and how it relates to the look of the overall plan I have made. So when that wall is placed into the diorama, you won’t easily see the checked type of peeling paint and the scale issue will be a no issue…however, the texture will be apparent and combined with all the other age appropriate weathering and textures, the feel of the whole diorama will be apparent.
Robert.G
February 2020
Indeed, sometimes modeling is making compremises . But in the end when it feels right, looks right, in exact scale or not, it is right and nobody will notice or doubt the correctness of dimensions.
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
My attention has been focused on the roof of Scotia. I chewed on many ideas for the roof treatment and have finally made a decision. I felt the way the roof is designed with its extremely steep pitch, very high square hip/pyramid construction, and the wonderful array of stacks and chimneys, that is was going to be a main focal point of the build. In modeling, most roofs tend to be that way…a focal point and what is viewed and scrutinized first off. Even more critical for Scotia Supply for the various reasons I pointed out above.
Many evenings over coffee, a cold beer, and an occasional bourbon! I mulled over the roof. I decided I wanted to tone down the height and soften the pointed peak a bit and add my own character to the roof. I came up with the idea to scratch build a roof peak vent in the same square hip/pyramid construction. The design would be a cupola with a metal roof to contrast with the proposed weathered tar paper covered main roof and vents on all four sides. The pitch would be much more shallow to effectively lower the height. In order to cover the main roof in “tar paper” and effect my usual grungy weathering, I covered the entire chipboard roof card supplied in the kit with stripwood. Any tar paper that was missing in the weathering process would expose wood roof sheating underneath.
The roof card covered with stripwood. This accomplishes two main objectives for me when weathering the main roof. Firstly, when any “tar paper” is removed in the weathering process the roof boards will be visble. Secondly, I use very thin paper for my “tar paper” and the impression of the boards under the “tar paper” will be subtily visible.
Note: You can see the cut line where I removed the peak for the cupola (see below).
Roof peak carefully removed to allow the cupola to be installed.
Note how this effectively lowers the profile of the roof a bit.
The clapboard siding cut and glued together with corner trim and vent openings.
Cupola base with peeled paint and weathered vents installed.
Low profile roof made from cardboard with the seams made to apper as a elevated metal roof seam. Cardboard was painted and weathered to look like old metal roofing providing a nice contrast to the proposed “tar paper” main roof.
Underside of cuploa roof with braces installed to prevent warping.
The following is a picture with the unfinished main roof, and staged cupola and roof (not yet attached) in place to show the general apperance of the finished roof peak.
SteveCuster
February 2020
That’s great Ken. How did you get the texture and color on the metal roof?
Mountaingoat
February 2020
Great idea. Looks fantastic.
vietnamseabee
February 2020
Marvelous idea Ken…another great example of the learning opportunity of following along on all of these threads (by many of the builders). Something you did (among many things) on the Foundry that still sticks with me was your idea of showing water rot damage from the roof corner all the way down to the foundation
Well done
Terry
Dave_S
February 2020
Ken,
Nice idea to change the original roof plan a bit. I went back to page one of this build to see what the proposed roof was scheduled to look like. I totally agree that because we most often view our modeling from a “bird’s eye view” it will change the focus from the steepness of the roof to other details, like the cupola and the hint of roof boards beneath the tar paper. All said it is a great looking roof at this point and a wonderful tutorial of how you did it. Thanks for all the photos. The photos really help visual learners like myself. Looking forward to seeing the tar paper installed over the roof boards and the “grungification” of it.
While living back in the Chicago area I was a founding member of a modular HO scale club, MidWest Mod-U-Trak. The other founding member, Bob Kosic, and I spent many hours trying to decide on a specific height for our modules. Over a short period of time more members joined the group and we ended up with a core group of 8 members. It was agreed upon by the group to have the top of our modules at a viewing height of 54". Some thought the viewing height was to high for kids to view the railroad easily. While we agreed, it also meant that parents would have to hold their children so they could see things. This also meant (for the most part viewing was accomplished with eyes not hands) and more like the way we view things in real life “at eye level”. We even influenced Martin Lofton (owner of Sunshine Models) to raise the viewing height of the model display tables at the meet by another two feet. That was a great feature for photographers and adult viewers. Today, Mike Skibbee, a founder of Mini Mod-Trak, and current owner of the granddaddy of all the prototype modelers’ shows, RPM Chicagoland (aka Naperville and/or Lisle Meet) still uses the higher viewing tables at the annual show.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
brownbr
February 2020
That’s a great treatment for the roof. Can’t wait to see the next step.
TomMich
February 2020
Great roof! Really changes the look of the structure and adds a lot of interest.
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
Thanks Steve…the “metal roof” was made from cardboard which has a slightly porous nature so when primed with enamel spray paint it causes very minute undulations in the outerlayer due to the solventsin the paint. The trough created by joining the edges of each triangular roof section was filled with strips of very small styrene strips to give the elevated seam apperance. The roof was painted with brown spray paint followed by an application of black chalk. I then ran my fingers over the surface creating the slightly shiny apperance on the high areas.
Appreciate that Rick.
Nice your remembered that Terry and thanks for the note here.
Thanks Dave and nice to hear you appreciate the how I did it portion. Too many builds just show the finished results with little in the way of information on how the modeler achived the results. Useful or not, still nice to see the methods used. Right!..looking forward to the “grungification” as well.
Thanks Bryan, next up will be to blend the main roof and cupola together. Mulling over the flashing for the cupola and have some ideas…
I thought so as well Tom and appreciate the support. You do something a bit harsh like cut the top off your roof…yikes!..you enjoy a bit of positive feed-back.
Ken
Robert.G
February 2020
I think this was a great idea of you to add the roof vent part. It surely is a detail that will draw attention . Super execution as always. The ‘metal’ came out great. Nice work Ken !!
admin
February 2020
can’t wait to see how it looks!
kebmo
February 2020
ditto
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Robert, by the time I get the “tar paper” on (see below), the cupola installed flashing and weathering, I think it will come together alright…hopefully.
Gettin there Brett and Kevin…
KKarns
February 2020
The “tar paper” is on and the initial weathering is coming along. May change a few things then on to the cupola and flashing.
Initial grungification…love that word Dave!
Getting there…
Robert.G
February 2020
Tarpaper is just right. When the used paper is thin enough, the boards will show through and that is just what’s needed to make it old. I don’t know what you used Ken, but I use, one layer that I pre-painted , Kleenex tissue ( or similar stuff)
Then, while still wet from the thinned glue, I brush with a stiffer brush on the parts that I want to be really worn and let the weathered wood show. In that way, the edges of the paper become extreme thin and naturally aged.
Nice work Ken.
TomMich
February 2020
Great effect on the tarpaper. Really like how the wood sheathing telegraphs through. What did you use for it?
sdrees
February 2020
Roof looks great Ken.
brownbr
February 2020
I like it.
I took Robert’s advise on tarpaper. It helped me a ton.
KKarns
February 2020
Thanks Robert…right you are my friend, that’s how I do it as well. I use thin tissue paper though not Kleenex type as that’s too fargile for how I work it, more like the kind used for gift wrapping. I spray paint one side black and then cut into strips. I coat the roof section I’m working on with white glue by using my finger so it’s spread out even and then place the strip. I then start rubbing the section with my fingers to forch the paper into all the cracks, bumps, etc from the boards underneath. I can also put pressure and slightly slide the paper to make creases/wrinkles, tears, etc. here and there before the glue dries. Then weather with #11 blade, chalks, AI, etc..the key is go thin on the paper.
Thanks Tom, see my response to Robert that was intended for you as well.
Appreciate that Stephen, will look much better once the flashing and ridge caps are installed.
Thanks Bryan, Robert is a good source of “grunge” so he gets my attention as well…lol.
Ken
TomMich
February 2020
Thanks for the explanation Ken. I’ve tried Kleenex before and it was difficult to work. Tissue paper sounds like a good alternative.
KKarns
February 2020
Right, quite a bit more durable to work with but nice and thin once glued down.
Joel
February 2020
Beautiful work on the roof.
KKarns
February 2020 edited February 2020
Thanks Joel. I have always wanted to try installing gutters and downspouts so am taking the opportunity and pulling the trigger on this build. The roof is done and the gutters are installed. Laying out and assembling the downspouts. Tedious work in 1:87. The downspouts won’t be put up until the roof is glued down to the second story walls, that won’t get done until I get holes drilled and a set of LEDs placed in the attached workshop, and that won’t get done until the lights get here…ordered today…Ken
brownbr
February 2020
OOOH! Light it up!
KKarns
February 2020
Very lack luster Bryan compared to your sophisticated light work that’s for sure.
brownbr
March 2020
Ken, I suspect that you could make the lights as intricate as you like. I’ll be looking for a working wall switch.
KKarns
March 2020
You folks amaze me that do all the sophisticated lighting. I’m at the one watch battery, one on/off switch, and a couple of pre-wired LEDs and I’m good!lol. One of these days I’ll but my nose to it and light up a large diorama, couple of Brett’s kits on the waiting list come to mind…but then there’s the “old dog new tricks” kind of thing…Ken
sdrees
March 2020
Trying to figure out how to install lights for us non electrical types is very confusing. The information that you get from Ngineering is just the opposite of what you will find on Evans Designs. Ngineering says that you must wire your lighting in series with a resistor for each LED. Evans design says that you can wire in parallel without the resistor if you use a 3 volt power supply.
Basically what I am doing, I am wiring my buildings using parallel wiring with a 3 volt power supply which could be a 3 volt coin battery which works well for dioramas. But I am adding a 18 volt buss wire to my layout for all the lighting on the layout and other auxiliary items. At strategic areas on the layout, I am going to install an AC/DC to DC Adjustable Voltage Converter and a terminal block. I will then wire the various buildings in the area to the terminal block.
KKarns
March 2020
Hey Stephen, those are the same light kits I use from Evans Designs! Simple and easy. Like I said, on one of these builds I’ll get into the lighting thing and get it all sorted out. Maybe tomorrow will be my standard answer…
sdrees
March 2020
Some of my lighting material I have bought from Ngineering and Evans design depending on what I am doing. The whole thing is very confusing and what I have done has worked very well for me. You might look at my Shelby’s Marina and my Tractor repair shed project.
KKarns
March 2020
Thanks Stephen, will check it out.
KKarns
March 2020
Quickk update on the roof for Scotia. The roof is basically complete except for some final weathering and the addition of various roof details like exhaust stacks and the like. Down spouts will be connected once the structure is “planted”. Gutters are on and the “metal” ridge caps and flashing around the cupola base. Better pictures later on.
sdrees
March 2020
Amazing!!!1
Robert.G
March 2020
What else to say…just great work.
brownbr
March 2020
Very nice.
Watch that first step out of the upstairs door.
Mountaingoat
March 2020
Love your work. Just amazing.
kebmo
March 2020
that looks great.
admin
March 2020
Incredible. How is this Scotia? Such a fantastic interpretation… Thoughtful, credible, and creative. More!
Jerry
March 2020
Beautiful!!
TomMich
March 2020
Looks like a whole different structure. Great interpretation.
KKarns
March 2020
Thanks Stephen. The pics aren’t the best but wanted to give an idea where the roof was going.
Appreciate that Robert. Working on the side building double doors facing the same way as the front of this structure. Trying for a light duty steel look similar to the doors shown here which can be interpreted as wood as well. Side door is going to be a roll up garage door style inspired by Brett from his latest HO/HOn3 release, The Brass and Iron Foundry. I was so impressed with that development of Brett’s, I had to include something similar on this build. Love the idea…Legacy Kits with latest techniques!
Thanks Bryan. Yup, long way down! Can’t wait to get that front porch and porch roof on. Steve Custer mentioned in his build thread how much that porch gave the structure life and character.
Hey thanks Rick. Always nice hearing from you. No turning back now, I’m all in on this build. As I have mentioned numerous times before…when asked which kit of Brett’s is my favorite?..my answer is always “whichever kit I’m currently working on”
Thanks Kevin, now back to work…tired of stripwood siding yet?lol.
I’ll take one word mentions like that anytime Jerry…thanks much.
Tom, thanks and hold that thought and see my response to Brett…
Thanks Ed.
KKarns
March 2020
So glad to hear you approve Brett. I was hesitant regarding changing the roof peak rather dramatically and would not have attempted it without much contemplation and planning. Your kits and kit design deserve every ounce of thought and preparation so the final product, stock or modified, is in keeping with the SWSM legend! Thanks again for the support and encouragement…Ken
KKarns
March 2020
Structure work has slowed to allow catching up on the diorama base. Brett designed Scotia Supply with a diorama base of 10-3/4" x 6-1/4". Based on my vision of what I wanted to do with my Scotia, I expanded that to 24" x 10". I had two main concepts in mind that required this modification. First, I wanted to expand the chain link fence section to include a storage area and a kerosene and fuel oil depot of sorts. Secondly, I wanted auto traffic in addition to the rail service. This required road access behind the main structure and an area for truck delivery at the side building. In addition, I wanted to get away from a total flat terrain and add some variation in elevation.
Overhead view of diorama base with just a coat of base color. Rail ties for code 55 light rail in narrow gauge have been laid. The hole in the main structure base is for wiring to light the side building.
This is the truck delivery side. The cut out area at the top of the picture is a ditch as the road slopes down from left to right. There will be a culvert where the traffic cuts across the ditch to the area right of the concrete pad. A wood retaining wall is shown on the steep side that gradually slopes in towards the concrete pad.
Wood retaining wall in place.
Back side of the main structure. Note how road slopes down towards delivery area.
Truck delivery area with ramp for trucks to back up to dock.
More later…Ken
brownbr
March 2020
I like the retaining wall
Mountaingoat
March 2020
Love the concept.
Rick
KKarns
March 2020
Thanks Bryan, good place for some of your root vines! Picked some up the other day by my creek in back.
KKarns
March 2020
Appreciate that Rick and still refining it. Why the kerosene and fuel oil depot…I love tanks and Brett has the best tank castings around. A few years ago I purchased a selection of tank castings from Brett that he had here on the web-site along with a bunch of other resin castings just for a situation like this.
Here is my coveted collection of SierraWest Scale Models tank castings.
TomMich
March 2020
Ken,
One can never have enough SW castings! Love the layout of Scotia. Having different elevations will really add interest.
Robert.G
March 2020
The difference in levels makes it interesting.
KKarns
March 2020
That’s what I thought. Lends to some nice scenic details also. Not crazy about having to detail 24 inches of track and access road…24 inch long 1:87 diorama base, am I nuts!
admin
March 2020
The height differential will ad yet another interesting dimension to your diorama. Can’t wait to see more! Hmmmm, that truck looks familiar. Might that be the same one you sent me to use in my Foundry pics? hah!
kebmo
March 2020
KKarns said:
That’s what I thought. Lends to some nice scenic details also. Not crazy about having to detail 24 inches of track and access road…24 inch long 1:87 diorama base, am I nuts!
maybe a touch but aren’t we all?
KKarns
March 2020
Hey Brett, that truck has gotten a few miles on it that’s for sure. I agree on the terrain elevation changes. I messaged Alan Hubbard for any tips on the landscaping as he is the master of topography in his modeling! The changes I made pale by comparison to what Alan has done with some of his dioramas.
Yeah guys…nuts for sure.
KKarns
March 2020
I have been working on the side building details of late. It’s amazing how much time and effort goes into detailing a structure that’s only 3.5" x 1.75"!
I’m lighting this side building and detailing the interior a bit. Scratch built all the doors and the roof. The interior has a wood floor over half and the rest is the concrete it sits on. The two large freight doors open to the concrete half.
A bit of interior work. Very little will show without a concerted effort to peer through open doors/windows.
Air compressor and air line that will be placed in the structure on the concrete floor in the corner once the building is glued down. The shut off valve is just a thin piece of tape wrapped around the steel wire and a piece of styrene cut for the handle.
More later…Ken
KKarns
March 2020
By the way, the studding on the inside walls are way out of scale but I used them as bracing for the walls in addition to interior detail…very little of this will show…why all the work then…I know its there!
Mountaingoat
March 2020
I’m glad I’m not the only one that goes beyond for so little sometimes, but WE know it’s there.
Looks great.
Rick
TomMich
March 2020 108.20.147.72
Detailing is is worth every minute! In my humble opinion it’s what makes the whole dio! Nice compressor!
brownbr
March 2020
Very nice
Joel
March 2020
Great stuff, excited about seeing it all come together.
KKarns
March 2020
Thanks Ed.
Right Tom, I agree and well stated on the detailing.
Hey Joel, nice hearing from you…things are progressing (see below).
KKarns
March 2020
Been a good while since posting on the Scotia build. The main structure is basically done. Haven’t a chance to get any good photos yet but will do that soon. I came up with a “punch list” for the main structure yesterday and thought it might make an interesting post…or not!
Configure and install main roof stacks
Light by second story front door
light above garage door of side building
Signage
Side vent install at rear
Stairs off loading dock
Reinstall light at back door (had to be moved for roof over back door afterthought)
Design and install electrical service
Back steps railing.
Once this list is knocked out the remainder of the diorama work can begin. Lots to do here…Ken
Mountaingoat
March 2020
Easy to see why you are one of the masters.
Rick
Robert.G
March 2020
Well thought out planning is and should be the key here. Even for the master.
KKarns
March 2020
Hey Rick, thanks for the thought. However, your descriptive is a bit of a stretch!..my philosophy…I think a great deal, I work hard (read slow), and cover my mistakes well!
Right Robert…planning ahead is key and when I mention slow it’s not consistently slow. I’ll think and plan a scene for days, then have a flurry of activity to complete it while the thoughts are fresh. Then slow down and plan the next move, all along keeping the final overall plan in mind. Can’t count the number of times if I would have constructed things based on my first thought, I would have wished I hadn’t or turned around and changed it. You all have been there I’m sure.
KKarns
March 2020
Working on the punch list of details. The kit came with a resin chimney that had the typical open top. I carved out the top a bit more and then filled it about half full of Epoxy. When just about dry (gooey) I sunk a couple of “stove pipes” into the glue. Once dry I then put in a mortar cap. Just a variation to give a unique look and interest…more later…Ken
KKarns
March 2020
Oh, and since my roof tar paper is already down and I cant lay the paper over the flashing, I put it on the chimney first and once glued to the roof I will add a seam of “tar” so it will appear as the flashing is under the paper.
Mountaingoat
March 2020
Love it. All the changes you are making that make a stock kit completely unique.
Rick
Robert.G
March 2020
Good thinking and very nicely executed !! What a pleasure to follow this build.
KKarns
April 2020
Thanks Rick, it is quite obvious I’m using this as a filler post since I’m so slow to get pictures posted! Certainly won’t be posting individual pics of each and every detail…
Appreciate that Robert.
Mountaingoat
April 2020
I know you can’t post everything, but showing the attention to details like this are very instructive to the rest of us. Thanks for doing that.
Rick
KCSTrains
April 2020
Ken, I just finished catching up on your build. Fabulous crafting!!! There is so much going on and I appreciate you attention to detail and taking the time to detail your various techniques. As I did with Karl’s and Bill’s great tutorials, I document these great techniques by using the Snipping Tool that comes with Microsoft. I then put these gems into a Sierra West technique book. Thanks for adding to my library. Phil
TomMich
April 2020
Chimney turned out great! It’s little details like this that might not be noticed, but really add a lot of interest to a finished dio.
brownbr
April 2020
How about a hornets nest under the lip of the chimney?
KKarns
April 2020
No problem Rick, love doing it and we all learn from each other. If not for sharing our hobby…what the hell???
Thanks Phil. Nifty idea on the technique book…
Hey Tom, I enjoy that kind of thing and thanks for the support.
Bryan…might get away with it in O Scale but 1:87…ehhh.lol.
KKarns
April 2020
The main structures of my Scotia build are pretty much done. May have a few additional details as the rest of the build takes shape. The ties are down and first layer of dirt applied. Much more to go…
Here are a few pictures of where the build is at present:
I added gutters and downspouts at the two rear corners. A bit tedious in 1:87!..I also moved the Scotia Supply signage to the main building as I wanted to mess around with the roof of the Side building. I of course opted for the raised rib metal roof and wood ridge cap.
Wood ridge cap with metal repair patches. Note the Kerosene and Fuel Oil sign. I am planning a scene for this on the north end.
Scratch built these doors as the interior is detailed and lighted. Will show more of that later on in the build.
Just see the roll up garage style door I built. This was totally motivated by Brett’s wonderful design, which I blatantly stole the idea for this build!lol…, from The Foundry kit. Credit where credit is due and it was a brilliant idea to include the Foundry kit.
I decided to add a rear door and stairway to the rear of Scotia that would flow around the back of the side building. Needed a railing along the elevated concrete pad I made.
Note how high the concrete foundation is on this side.
North end of Scotia. The electrical service area. There will be a service pole and line coming into the main electrical feed later on in the build.
More later…
admin
April 2020
wow. what a beauty. congratulations…
KKarns
April 2020
Thanks Brett. Havin fun with this one!..
SteveF
April 2020
I just spent some time catching up with this build from the beginning. Your build quality and weathering work are true art at the highest level. Thank you for sharing it on the forum so we can all learn from it. Most everything has been said at this point by others, but I would like to say the raised concrete coloring and weathering is amazing! Especially when it is offset by the delicate pipe railing. The roll-up garage door is great and adds variety to the usual selection of doors. I just received the O scale version of the Foundry and saw this detail that Brett added and I can’t wait to tackle that kit but I’m trying to stay disciplined with the open projects I have. The single biggest take-away for me from your builds is the use of heavy weathering without muddying-up and losing the detail of the build. Thanks again for all the inspiration!
Mountaingoat
April 2020
The changes you made have given this “kit” a completely different character. Your attention to the smallest detail is without question not to mention the perfect weathering. Go man go, but at your pace. Not a race if you want perfection. Love it all.
Rick
TomMich
April 2020
Awesome Ken! Changes the whole look of the original model. Can’t wait to see what you do with the details.
Joel
April 2020
Stunning work as always Ken. Really looking forward to the details and clutter but it already has so much character. A pleasure to follow along.
brownbr
April 2020
Love it. I expect light switches inside with the power service.
kebmo
April 2020
yeah, it really looks great. good and grungy, yet solidly built and accurate as hell. nice work sir.
KCSTrains
April 2020
Ken, your additions to the kit are perfect and blend right end. I wish I had that much imagination. Another unique build that is inspirational to us all. Phil
SteveCuster
April 2020
Fantastic Ken. Has your signature style all over it. I’d know it was one of your builds without anyone telling me. Can’t wait to see it with all the details.
Robert.G
April 2020
Another superb work Ken. It’s gonna take time to take it all in. It has your signature for sure, meaning SO WELL DONE !!!
KKarns
April 2020
Appreciate that Steve. I was a little hesitant regarding the elevated concrete foundation but I see that look with barns and such and I think it worked out OK. You’ll love working up the O scale version of The Foundry, so many cool details that are new and innovative including that garage door. Right Steve, I don’t think I could model a modern clean looking building to save me a_ _ …soul!
Thanks Rick, and your subtile dig on how slow I am is noted!..lol… You have been a breath of fresh air to this forum and appreciate your camaraderie and modeling skill.
Tom, When I look back at the original design I did stray a bit!..I was in regular contact with Brett regarding my proposed ideas. Brett offered nothing but support and encouragement.
Thanks Joel and hope all is well up north.
Bryan, you are Mr. Detail!..Hey Dr. Grunge and Dr. Detail…would make a good team. Thanks much.
Thanks Kev. Grungy is good in my neighborhood.
You bet Ed and thanks for the note here.
Well thanks Phil, very nice of you to say…made my day.
Hey Steve, thanks man, it is funny how we all develop a certain style that tends to be recognizable. Feel like trying sometime to change things significantly just for that reason…hmmm
Thanks Robert, appreciate that.
Robert.G
April 2020
The more I look at it, the more I like it. Both your build, and the design. Don’t you hear it screaming, O scale, O scale…
mikemettelka
April 2020
Was never a fan of this kit… till now. The subtle changes made a huge difference to me in my eyes.
KKarns
April 2020
Ed, probably not but just a thought!
OK Robert, we’re going to have it out here and now!..Ho/HOn3 rules, you spoiled O Scalers need to realize your place as second in line…lol!
KKarns
April 2020
Thanks Mike, as I mentioned to Brett…having a blast with this kit. More to come…Ken
kebmo
April 2020
me?
Robert.G
April 2020
Indeed it would Ed !!!
No problem Ken, second in line is just fine…
KKarns
May 2020 edited May 2020
Well this things have been languishing for good while…my typical modeling style! The scenic thread has got me moving a bit. Just finished up the chain link fence today so will post that section after a bit…
I built a stairway leading up to the dock from the truck ramp…I know, big deal…hey it’s something!..
Finished detailing the track work. This is tedious work in 1:87 with rail spikes, 4 for every tie, and rail joiners…24 inches of track…you do the math!..so what did I do?
Cheated of course!..have only a couple small areas where the ties are visible the rest is covered like this…looks cool anyway…
Here’s the entry from the road over the small drainage ditch with a culvert in place. Toothpicks outline a second section of chain link fencing to tie into the fence I finished at the other end…more later…Ken
KCSTrains
May 2020
Yes, there is progress!! Phil
Mountaingoat
May 2020
Looks great. I agree with the track. I did my entire length of track with 4 spikes per tie and rail tie bars. However, I like the look of mostly buried ties.
Rick
MuddyCreekRR
May 2020
I really like the look of the buried track…very realistic off the main line…
kebmo
May 2020
i agree. my former neighbor owned a lumberyard that had it’s own siding, and the ties were buried. i think that’s a great look. (he even had a derailer just in case)
Robert.G
May 2020
Glad you’re back in business. It looks great !!
brownbr
May 2020
I like the nearly buried track.
KKarns
May 2020
Progress it is Phil…albeit small…but I did get the chain link fence up at the other end.
Thanks ED…
Appreciate that Robert…
Rick, Muddy, Kev, and Bryan…lumping you into the thumbs up on the mostly buried track…glad to have some moral support there, thanks guys.
TomMich
May 2020
Smart move on the buried track. Otherwise we might have to bail you out of the funny farm so we can see the final results. Looks GREAT!
ALCO
May 2020
A Master Class from a Master Craftsman.
KKarns
May 2020 edited May 2020
Right Tom!..after I laid out the footprint for the diorama, I got a cold sweat thinking about detailing all that track…I’ve done a bunch of it on other builds but just didn’t want to this time. Artistic license or something like that.
Hey thanks Al, awfully nice of you to say and nice hearing from you. I could have said I detailed all the track then buried most of it…but you all would see right through that..Lol
ALCO
May 2020
KKarns said:
Right Tom!..after I laid out the footprint for the diorama, I got a cold sweat thinking about detailing all that track…I’ve done a bunch of it on other builds but just didn’t want to this time. Artistic license or something like that.
Hey thanks Al, awfully nice of you to say and nice hearing from you. I could have said I detailed all the track then buried most of it…but you all would see right through that..Lol
It would be like you to detail the track and then bury it because…you’d know it was there.
KKarns
May 2020
Touché Al…I resemble that remark!
admin
May 2020
Love the track as always, your attention to ALL the details is amazing.
SteveCuster
May 2020
Great work as always Ken.
KKarns
October 2020 edited October 2020
Thanks guys. Well I must say it has been a long time since posting on my Scotia build. I took some time off to relocate and build a new modeling shop. I will post some pics and give an update on that project soon.
As a refresher, the main structure is done with pictures posted here previously. I am now on the scenic work and exterior scenes. I expanded the north side of Scotia to include a fuel oil and kerosene depot of sorts. I love modeling oil/fuel tanks and the grunge and mess that goes along with them.
I spent the better part of a day working on the service pole and the connection of the electrical service to the main building. I started with a scale 10" x 10" piece of stripwood, sanded it round for the pole. Cross member was a 4" x 4" piece of stripwood with styrene supports. Insulators, transformer, and NBWs finished off the basic details less wiring. Wiring was extremely tedious work as you can imagine. Firstly, a support wire was fashioned from ship rigging rope. I use modelers ship rigging “rope” as it doesn’t have the “fuzzies’ like standard thread seems to produce. The basic rigging rope, when laid out, doesn’t lay nice and straight. As a result, I put some Elmers on my fingers and ran them up and down the “rope”. This serves to straighten out the 'rope” and give it some rigidity ( see picture below).
(Upper “rope” treated with PVA glue and weathered like steel cable. Lower “rope” as per stock product and note the loose bends).
I then put some weathering chalk on my fingers and ran the “rope” through to weather it to appear like steel support cable. I then wound another section of “rope” to wrap around the support cable as the actual electrical wire. Once it reached the structure I separated the individual strands and ran two of them into the weather cover of the main electrical feed. The other end was separated and attached to the output on the transformer. Any electricians out there keep the comments to yourself! lol. (see below)
Glad this work is done. More later…Ken
KCSTrains
October 2020
Ken, this is where one goes from being a great crafter to a master crafter. Very nice work. Thanks for sharing your technique. BTW I found a quick way to turn square wood into round wood. Put the square wood in your drill and spin slowly as you run it over a running belt sander. It works great, but be careful, it works quickly and if you don’t pay attention, you end up with a tooth pick. Phil
KKarns
October 2020
Thanks Phil, appreciate that. Right!..took me a good while to go from square to round. I also put a gradual taper on the piece as it would be. Appreciate you taking the time to comment here my friend.
Mountaingoat
October 2020
Ken, I am not an electrician, but been around this quite a bit. This is totally believable. Very nice drip loop (sag) into the weatherhead on the building. …Rick
KCSTrains
October 2020
Ken, nice to have you back at the bench. Phil
TomH
October 2020
That looks fantastic Ken.
KKarns
October 2020
Very good Rick, glad there is a resemblance of legit going on there lol.
Thanks Ed. Was one of the more tedious projects I have done in 1:87 for some time.
Feels good to get some real work done on the project Phil.
Appreciate that Tom. Small update but its something, and figure a days work should at least get it’s own billing.
kebmo
October 2020
beautiful work, but that’s gonna be a tough meter to read…
brownbr
October 2020
Well worth the extra effort. Glad you are back.
You need a couple of song birds sitting on the wire.
EmeryJ
October 2020
That is pretty much perfect. The meter reader may call you a few ugly names though. LOL. Just kidding. I love the look of this!
KKarns
October 2020
Hey Kevin, appreciate that. I thought about the location of the electrical service and probably should have run it down and mounted on the stone foundation. Just didn’t look right when I staged it. The background of the weathered siding and all the “stuff” close together had the right look. What about wrapping the deck around the corner with angled supports rather than posts to the ground?..Hmmm…might look cool? Problem or opportunity??
Thanks Bryan, I’m glad to be back modeling with all you hooligans! Joking aside, you folks are the best and honored to be knocking elbows with you all. Birds on the wire!..Gessh, I have enough trouble doing LPs let alone wildlife! Lol. As you may recall, I have one figure “planted” in each diorama I build. The one for this build has been added and the chance to find em will come with the final pics after I’m done with this project.
Hi Emery, really nice hearing from you and enjoy following your work here on the forum, great place to be. I agree, I love the look of busy wiring, plumbing, etc…I think it adds a great deal of realism and interest. Your take on the issue of access has got me thinking…see comments to Kev above. Would love to hear what you think…Ken
EmeryJ
October 2020
Prop a ladder against the wall beside it. This model was in the days before coddling to absolutely everyone. Like “Green Acres” climbing the pole to answer the phone.
KKarns
October 2020
That would be a painless solution for sure! Love the Green Acres piece…
I actually have a ladder along the bottom of the wall (see picture below), but not exactly at the ready! Lol…
TomMich
October 2020
Very nice detail Ken! Looks very realistic.
KKarns
October 2020
Thanks Tom and appreciate you taking the time to comment. Always nice hearing from you.
nextceo
October 2020 edited October 2020
Awesome work on that Electrical line..best Ive seen..and Ive seen a lotta shit..
admin
October 2020
HO Scale. Just awestruck. Looks just like the real thing in every detail.
KKarns
October 2020 edited October 2020
Hey Brett, appreciate your tutelage and encouragement and as we discussed, I was going to try and get some interesting things going with Scotia. We all know what it feels like once we get into a SierraWest Scale Models kit…we obsess of course! This was one detail I was chomping at the bit to get working on. Wanted to finish most of the details in the side yard, under the electric line, in order to avoid knocking the wires loose!
Alan my friend, what’s going on? Been a long time since we chatted and really nice hearing from you. Doing any modeling? Thanks for the kind words really made my day.
SteveCuster
October 2020
Looks fantastic Ken. The electrical wire is really impressive. Getting wires to look natural is one of the most challenging things for me. Yours look perfect. I love the buried ladder and the loose bricks against the wall.
brownbr
October 2020
No birds?! How about a squirrel?
brownbr
October 2020
Ed you just gave me an idea!
KKarns
October 2020 edited October 2020
Thanks Steve and nice hearing from you as always. Miss not being able get together at the shows. That project took a full day and as I mentioned, and one of the most tedious single projects I have done in a long time. Problem is, I will now have to have a similar detail on all my dios which started with my Loco and Service Shops, then BlueSky, and now Scotia…should have it figured out by now!Lol.
Robert.G
October 2020
Ken, it all looks very natural. The clutter, the vines, grasses coming out , great work man !!!
KKarns
October 2020
Appreciate that Robert, and coming from the Duke of details (would have used King but didn’t rhyme with details) that means a great deal!
Robert.G
October 2020
Actually, I am Belgian… but still a big sense of humor…
I think that’s a real cool name. Playing : The Duke of Detail and Dr. Grunge at Madison Square Garden tonight !! Sold out…sorry…
Joel
November 2020
Fantastic stuff Ken. So glad you are back at the bench. Looking forward to the final push. Hopefully nothing else is a tedious.
KKarns
November 2020
Thanks much Joel and nice hearing from you as always! That should be it for the tedious work but enjoyable all the same. Working my way around the structure and have finished the side oil tank storage yard. Detailing the road in back. The road is the full length of the diorama (24 inches) and straight…a bit boring and monotonous. So…I decide halfway down the gentle slope I would put in a wood post and cable guardrail. I like to try things I haven’t done before with each build, and haven’t modeled guardrails before…posts are done will see how they look before posting (get it!) any progress…Ken
Mountaingoat
November 2020
Anxiously awaiting the results…Rick
KKarns
December 2020 edited December 2020
Me too Rick! Lol.
I have done this before on other stuff and it is usually an over reaction…got wind that Testors may discontinue their Dullcote…so I jumped online and ordered 6 cans!!
Decided to give “static grass” a try on my Scotia Supply diorama. Bought a relatively cheap model and a selection of 2 and 4 millimeter grasses. I never really liked the look of static grass but the selection of materials is getting much better so we’ll see.
KCSTrains
December 2020
Ken, thanks for the heads up. I may order as well.
As for static grass, I really like it if you have a fairly large area that needs grass (Otherwise, use the grass tufts from Scenic Express). I’ve used combination of grasses up to 10 millimeters. Otherwise, it looks like a putting green. The owner of Scenic Express gave me a static grass lesson. There are two critical things you need to do. First, apply the static grass glue fairly thick. Second, slowly shake the applicator and let the grass stand on its end, then pull the applicator straight up. I found that if I get at eye level with the surface, I can see what’s happening. Of course, practice makes perfect. Hope this helps. Phil
KCSTrains
December 2020
BTW, I did some quick research. Rustoleum, which owns dullcote, offers a product called “dead flat” which some say is the same thing. You can get it at Home Depot for about $8.00. I may try it. Phil
KKarns
December 2020
Any information helps that’s for sure. Typically I don’t work up dioramas with very much “grass” area. I make my own tufts but want to see if I can create a bit larger expanses of taller field type grass. Thanks much for the note Phil, appreciate it.
brownbr
December 2020
I’m going to try the dead flat for sure.
I’m a big fan of static grass, which includes the tufts that can be made or bought. The key to me is that you mix different colors and heights in your application. Otherwise you get the putting green look mentioned earlier.
kebmo
December 2020
ken, how about an update on your new work space??
KKarns
December 2020
Will be anxious the hear how the “Dead Flat” compares…of course I won’t need any for a good while considering my spending spree on Dullcote!lol.
Thanks for the tip on the static grass. Not sure I’ll be trying it yet on Scotia as I received the grass and don’t like the colors at all…
Yeah I should do a piece on my new modelIng shop for sure…and thanks for “rattling my cage” on the subject Kevin.
KKarns
December 2020
Right Ed…well the “straw” color, which I was going to use a good bit of, is way too yellow. The green colors were, I don’t know, just fake looking. I know they are fake!
With that said, my scenic work tends to be very muted and dull. Maybe this is to a fault and likely why I think when significant color is introduced to one of my scenes it looks…yuck to me. So…what I think I might do…I have both the Line Side and Tool Shed kits I built years ago but did not put them in a diorama. I may do both as small dioramas and experiment with lots more scenic color. I guess kind of like therapy.
sdrees
December 2020
I don’t know what colors you ordered Ken, but I am in the midst of trying my first big use of static grass on my layout and I am going for the Fall colors which Silfor or Noch has from Scenic Express and they are muted greens and straw. There are a bunch of You Tube videos on static grass and one that I like Marklin of Sweden called The Ultimate Guide to Static Grass. And there are many more videos on You Tube on the subject. I also had a cheap applicator but it did not work very well and spent some bucks to get a good one.
KKarns
December 2020
Have you tried the better quality applicator yet?
sdrees
December 2020
Yes, I bought the Noch Grassmaster 3 from Scenic Express for about a $100. It has 3 different sieve sizes for use depending how long the fibers are. There is a WWS applicator also that is supposed to be good. The Woodland Scenics is not that great.I am happy with the one I bought. If your inclined, you can make your own. there is information out there on how to do that.
Robert.G
December 2020
I use the RTS 55Kv Greenkeeper. That is the most powerful (hobby) ‘grasser’ on the market. Not the cheapest around, but the more power, the better the grass, even the 12mm, stands up. I use it on my tall fir trees as well. With good results I might add..
jmanugo
December 2020
I second Robert’s opinion.
I have all the applicators on the market and the one that gives the best results is the RTS 55Kv Greenkeeper.
Greetings.
JM
KKarns
December 2020
Yup…on my list of things to get! Thanks guys.
KKarns
December 2020
One is going to hurt bad enough! Over $300…
EmeryJ
December 2020
I hear ya Ken. I had one in the cart and figured I had better whoa up there. Maybe Santa will drop one off instead.
KKarns
December 2020 edited December 2020
Exactly Emery!..I went to a site and almost stuck it in my “cart” but decided to wait and let the idea simmer a bit…
Dave_S
December 2020
I also went to the site and viewed the videos that I found on the internet. Fascinating to watch some of these artists use the RTS 55Kv Greenkeeper as they build a scene. One was in French and the other German. But you get the idea of how the tool can be used in very artistic ways. It would be of great interest to see a short video by Rober and Jose showing us a few ideas on some basic uses, especially how to create blended grasses of differing heights and colors in a pasture setting.
In the end it is like all good tools, “You get what you pay for!”
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
brownbr
December 2020
I have the Noch which does an acceptable job. I agree that getting the best tools possible helps. When I got the Noch, I thought it was the best available. Had I known about the Greenkeeper before I would have definitely gotten it. I have not made my own tufts as I bought a supply of tufts long ago that have lasted longer than I thought. Most of those tufts are now bent over from the packaging. Maybe its time for me to make my own now.
jmanugo
December 2020
Dave_S said:
It would be of great interest to see a short video by Rober and Jose showing us a few ideas on some basic uses, especially how to create blended grasses of differing heights and colors in a pasture setting
Dave, I did a photographic step by step with 3 layers of electrostatic fibers, but it was not with the RTS 55Kv Greenkeeper, it was with the WWScenic.
The RTS was on the way, but as I am a restless I could not wait to have it and I did it with this one. The result was not bad, but with the RTS I am very happy.
In this link you can see all the photos.
Greetings.
JM
TomMich
December 2020
Jose,
Great layering of textures and colors. Turned out very nice.
sdrees
December 2020
The Noch Grassmaster 3.0 output is only 11Kv vs the RTS 55Kv 5 times the output of the Noch. What a hell of a charge! and a whopper of a price. Looking on the internet, they have other models with less output.
EmeryJ
December 2020 edited December 2020
Who am I kidding… Dave and Ed are 100% correct. You get what you pay for. Kv55 kit with an extra set of quick change jars incoming!! HO..HO..HO.
Ben Franklin: “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”
KKarns
December 2020
Finishing up Scotia tomorrow and will post final pictures as weather permits. Following this I will post an update on the new shop. The results of the guardrail work went well and look forward to feedback.
kebmo
December 2020
at last…something to look forward to…
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Kevin, nice of you to say…feel bad postings have been so lean!..
kebmo
December 2020
to be honest, i know your scotia is going to turn out fantastic. what i really wanna see is the new workspace. i gotta do something about mine, and need ideas.
here’s another truth…
i haven’t had a cigarette in 7 weeks, and i’m feeling about $600 or $700 dollars richer. no kidding.
Mountaingoat
December 2020
Kevin, that means more money for modeling! ..
Ken. I am anxious to see your finished dio…Rick
KKarns
December 2020 edited December 2020
The single best thing you could have ever done Kevin…well played!
Feels good to have finished up another one!..
kebmo
December 2020
Mountaingoat said:
Kevin, that means more money for modeling! ..
Ken. I am anxious to see your finished dio…Rick
exactly right.
KKarns
December 2020
I was able to get outside this afternoon to get some pictures of my finished Scotia Supply diorama. Featured here are the basic shots from all sides. I’ll get some more detailed pictures later on.
I was planning on installing the jib crane on the dock but after careful consideration elected not to. Seemed it overpowered the scene a bit.
KKarns
December 2020
Mountaingoat
December 2020
Exceptional as always Ken. You nailed the electrical feed configuration. I like that you grew the diorama foot print to add a lot of scenery and detail that accents the building as well as your mods to the building. Again, exceptional…Rick
admin
December 2020
Outstanding - still taking it all in. What a wonderful rendition of my second kit from 1996.
EmeryJ
December 2020
Wow, that is old… LOL. I would say “They don’t make em like that anymore”, but you damn sure do! Outstanding job Ken!!!
SteveCuster
December 2020
Great job Ken! You did a really great job making this one your own but still keeping the original feel of the kit.
sdrees
December 2020
Great looking job Ken. Details look just fantastic!
WOW!!!1
trains4ms
December 2020
Wow! Am outstanding diorama. All the fences and roads look very realistic. Oh yes, the building is outstanding too.
Mike S.
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Rick, appreciate your thoughts on the electrical work.
Appreciate that Brett. Love your old classics!
Hey Emery, illustrates how innovative SWSM has been for over 25 years!
Thanks much Steve and nice hearing from you as always.
Your kind words are appreciated Stephen!
Thanks Mike. I put in a wood post and cable guardrail for the first time. I like to try new techniques and ideas with every build. First time doing gutters and downspouts on the main building, chain link fence, and post and cable guardrail. Will have more detail pictures of the guardrail later on.
KKarns
December 2020 edited December 2020
The following are a few more detail shots.
Here is the drainage ditch along the road in back.
The downspout from the roof also runs into the ditch.
Burn barrel and junk pile.
Road to the side loading dock runs over drainage pipe and into the fenced yard area.
Road view of the Kerosene and fuel oil storage area.
Trash and debris accumulated on the outside of the fenced storage yard.
Underground fuel oil storage tank with pump system to stock the dispensing tank. Note the underground oil fill pipe and cap. Cap is open as I’m building an oil delivery truck that will have a hose stuck in the pipe as if filling the tank. The other tank is kerosene.
Dock details.
KKarns
December 2020
KKarns
December 2020
Here is my go at a post and cable guardrail.
Mountaingoat
December 2020
The addition of the scenes on each end really bring the buildings purpose to a more realistic life. Much more functional and complete. Fantastic…Rick
MuddyCreekRR
December 2020
As always…it looks more real…than real does…
brownbr
December 2020
A masterpiece that sucks you in at every scene.
kebmo
December 2020
now do you guys see why we need to invent better words?
the guard rail looks great. the whole dio looks great. these words kinda suck.
we need better ones.
i think masterpiece is pretty appropriate.
outstanding modeling ken. you’re right up there at the top. bravo.
kebmo
December 2020
now how about the work space update??
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Rick, I try to have some method to my madness regarding the flow of things. I’m guilty of straying from reality now and again but that’s the fun of modeling…can’t take it too seriously…all the time!
Appreciate that Art. Emulating the real thing is what we are striving for so when I get close, and it’s noticed, I’m happy…thanks again.
Too kind Bryan, but I’ll take it every time.
Hey Kevin, thanks for such a nice review. I’m cleaning up the shop and will be taking some pics later today and tomorrow.
KCSTrains
December 2020
Ken, an amazing build. Your attention to detail is beyond comparison. You think through every little thing. Amazing. You also always add new ideas. I love the guardrails and the electrical work. This is also your first try at something other than flat and you pulled it off amazingly. Congratulations. Have a very Merry Christmas. Phil
KKarns
December 2020
Appreciate that Phil. Right, a little change in topography makes a big difference. Stay safe and have a wonderful holiday as well!
ALCO
December 2020
Gotta get my magnifying glass. This will take a while. Thanks for the Xmas present!
KKarns
December 2020
You bet Al…
Robert.G
December 2020
Ken, another exceptional diorama. To begin with, the buildings are just great. I love the color , well, what is left, on the boards of the main building. Stonework looks like real stonework as does the concrete. The details you added, are just great touches of realism.
Like the debris and paper against the fence, The fence itself, the electrical feed, the tyre traces in the mud by the tanks, well I could go on. Grungy at its best. Again , super work on this one !!!
Will you ad some lights ? So it would look great at night also…
Dave_S
December 2020
Ken,
The post and cable guardrail is an awesome detail along the roadside. Could be the first time I recall seeing this detail in a SWSM diorama. Nicely executed as always.
Did you use the same material you used for the electrical drop line to create the cable?
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Dave. Right. I used ship rigging rope which doesn’t have the little fuzzies like cheap thread. It is however, not stiff enough to look and act like steel cable. I take the “rope” and run it through my fingers that I smeared with Elmers glue several times. Once dry, it has the perfect stiffness but still allows working it effectively. I then do the same thing with chalk powder to color it.
EmeryJ
December 2020 edited December 2020
Ken, try Matt Varnish. It works great.
KKarns
December 2020
I can see that working great. Thanks Emery…
TomMich
December 2020
Ken, I have been looking forward to the completion of this diorama. I can’t add anymore superlatives to what has been already said. Simply a masterpiece! What strikes me are the areas that are fenced in, especially like the addition of the tanks, and the oily appearance of the area. Love your cyclone fences. I usually get blobs of glue on them when trying to build such a fence. Your attention to detail is outstanding. Each time I look at the photos I find more interesting detail.
nextceo
December 2020 edited December 2020
Ken, Outstanding work as always. Your color palette is spot on. Ok, seeing its Christmas, I think you need to follow Joel’s lead and throw some white stuff on that diorama…
Dave_S
December 2020
Ken,
Based on your earlier tutorial in this thread on Scotia Supply III about creating a drop line from the pole to the electrical mast head
I purchased some nautical rope as you suggested. I have received the thread/rope and it looks perfect for both applications.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Tom and yes, I love the old tanks and the oily grungy things that go along. The fence work was a first for me. I used very tiny little drops of super glue with a pin to secure the tule. Thanks again for your thoughtful comments, means a lot.
Well hey Alan, nice hearing from you. Appreciate the note and I don’t know if I could get the nerve up to do a winter snow scene! I have a couple small structures (Line Side Shed and Tool Shed) that I haven’t built up dioramas for yet…hmm
Great Dave, glad you found the product. I really like that stuff and have a good supply of various sizes.
trains4ms
December 2020
What brand are the the cyclone fences? They look great. I like the culvert over the driveway. It just seems that you thought of everything, to make a great and complete scene.
Mike S.
KKarns
December 2020
Hey Mike. Fencing was scratch built from aluminum tubing and wedding tule fabric. Brett included brass pipe and the material I just changed it to aluminum as I added more fence to my diorama
Coors2u
December 2020
As always a true work of art Ken!
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Justin, nice hearing from you.
KKarns
December 2020
Hey Robert,
Wasn’t ignoring your post here just wanted to get some additional pictures before commenting! Firstly, thanks so much for your thoughts. You’re an incredible modeler so appreciate your critique and comments, means a great deal. I did light the shop addition and probably should have just gone ahead and did the main building…maybe next time.
brownbr
December 2020
Lights for sure The peeling paint looks fantastic in this last pic. Is that your lone peep inside?
Robert.G
December 2020
Lights are great and also the fact there is no light coming from underneath the building or any other place it shouldn’t . The peeling paint is very well done. Great build Ken !
KKarns
December 2020
Thanks Bryan!..Ahh…the wayward sole of Scotia…well done.
nextceo
December 2020
Is that Brett in the doorway?
sdrees
December 2020
The light make a huge difference Ken. They show off all those wonderful details you have done on the interior. One step at a time.
KKarns
December 2020
I told him to take off that goofy looking hat!
Thanks Stephen, one of these builds I’ll get down and dirty with some decent lighting!
trains4ms
December 2020
Thanks for the answer on the fence. It looks so god. I was wondering if it was the new one from Woodland Scenics. Has anyone tried one of those yet?
Mike S.
KKarns
January 2021
Well apparently not Mike! Lol…I looked at it on Woodland Scenics site and the posts appeared a bit on the “chunky” side. May just have been the picture.
Joel
February 2021
Hey Ken
Feeling a bit guilty but honestly been so busy and I didn’t feel I could give your diorama the time it likely deserved. Finally have an afternoon to catch up. Boy was I right to wait. Even with a nice quiet afternoon there is not enough time to appreciate this work of art. Fantastic little scenes, each a contest winning diorama in its own right. Every scene is a pleasure to sift through the layers and details. Just jaw dropping. Thanks so much for this. Makes me itch to get back to building something.
KKarns
February 2021
Hey Joel, nice to hear from you and appreciate your thoughts. Trust everyone on your end is doing well and staying healthy!
Pappy
November 2021
Ken, I commented on my thread as you know, but wanted to tell you here that your work on this build should be in a museum! Beautiful fantastic work!!
Pappy
KKarns
November 2021
Well I tell ya Pap, that’s such a nice thing to say…made my day buddy and makes it all worth while!..
geoawelch
December 2021
Such an incredible job on this kit, Ken.
Brett, have you ever considered an O Scale release?
George
KKarns
January 2022
Thanks much George!..
Pappy
January 2022
Agree, Ken is one of the masters here
KKarns
January 2022
Ahh…too kind Pappy…I see it as I’m enthusiastic and work hard at it and the kit does the rest!
admin
November 2022
Another Thanksgiving treat to check out!
Karl.A
January 2023
What a masterpiece.
KKarns
January 2023
Appreciate that Karl, means a great deal coming from you. It was a great project and really enjoyed it.