This thread was started in January, 2013
KKarns
January 2013 edited January 2013 in HO Scale Builds
Featured here are some pics of my first Sierra West build. I am planning an early 1900s logging railroad in HO scale. I am starting out small with the Tool Shed and Line Side Storage Shed to get my feet wet with these great kits. My first four walls are completed less doors and windows. Mistakes were made but I’m trying to keep them to a minimum. I was attempting to follow Brett’s suggestion in the manual with the Tool Shed build regarding coloring but inadvertently strayed a bit. The siding should have been a bit lighter with an aged and faded red siding. I started with the Grime wash and then began a light brushing with a brass brush and was amazed at the transformation! May have got a bit carried away as the siding got a bit dark. Also, may have weathered things a bit more harsh than I wanted but it doesn’t show up as much without the zoom. Spacing on the siding looks a bit generous in spots and I did not plan the spacing where the siding meets the doorways as well as I would have liked. Comments are welcome and please be critical as I’m having a blast learning and am totally hooked on these builds. Will continue updates with windows,doors, roof, etc.. Tried a few nail holes and will finished those as I think they look OK.
Comments
John_in_australia
January 2013
From a newby like my self it looks great!!
KKarns
January 2013
Did not load pictures to my text.
KKarns
January 2013
John,
Hey, thanks for the encouragement! I checked the forum and saw your build pics. You’re way ahead of me and looking good. I have purchased the Essentials, among others, but have not received them yet which is fine as the Tool Shed and Line Side will keep me busy for a bit. Jumped ahead and detailed a couple of the incredible castings…sweet! Great fun working these. Keep in touch.
Ken
Wes
January 2013
Ken id be mighty proud of that as my first go.
Keep posting progress shots, its looking good.
Karl.A
January 2013
Great looking start Ken !!
I’ve seen many O scale builds of this kit that dont look as good as yours.
Keep taking your time, dont rush and follow the instructions, this is turning out sweet so far.
I’m looking forward to more updates.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2013
Wes/Karl :
Thanks for your comments. Coming from you guys it means a great deal. I know I need to crawl before I can walk and I’m humbled by the builds I have seen from you all. Questions; Would you weather the platform more, less, or about the same as the shed siding? I’m inclined to think the weathering would be more on a horizontal surface than a vertical one. I would think the spacing of the boards however, should be close on the platform? Also, foot traffic on the platform would keep the boards a bit smooth? No stairs are shown and leads me to believe the platform is a one step up from ground level?
Will post the finished walls and some casting work soon. Thanks!
brownbr
January 2013
Excellent job on the walls. Coloring has a nice dull gray. I agree with Karl that this could easily pass as O scale.
As for the platform, I always prefer to use the same palette as the walls but make it more gray and a little lighter to simulate the sun beating down on that horizontal plane. One technique I sometimes use for this is to lightly sand with a 220 grit paper before or after building. For me this really ages the board and highlights the edges and grooves in the wood.
KKarns
January 2013
Bryan,
Thanks for the feed-back on the walls. I totally agree with your thoughts on the platform and will be building with the plan to keep the platform same palette but lighter/faded and will try the light sanding as this should also smooth the top side a bit as you would expect a foot traffic area on wood to be. Thanks again.
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Ken, as yourself and Bryan have already discussed I would also treat the decking slightly differently from the walls.
I personally try to make them look a little greyer and sun faded as has been noted. I use steel wool to lighten, smooth and ‘polish’ the boards, this gives a really nice worn effect that I like.
As for spacing I leave a very small gap betwwen the boards, for drainage, take a look at the O scale BlueSky dock for an example.
Keep us up to date on your progress,
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2013
Karl, Thanks for the suggest as it looks like the light steel wool may give me both the lighter color as well as the smoother worn by foot traffic feel. I have been struggling with getting the dirty window effect. The dusting with the light chalk seems to come up smeary rather than that even light coat. Might be using too soft a brush and when I dab, the tips are bending creating a smear effect? Will be posting soon once I sort this out.
Ken
KKarns
January 2013
Here are some pics of my “finished” walls for the tool shed. I have the two side walls glued to each separate long wall but have not done the final gluing so I can re-work the windows a bit. Thoughts on the windows?? Not real satisfied as I had trouble with the homogeneous “fogging” with the chalk so I decided to make it appear as if the dust has collected along the edges and corners simulating someone half heartedly cleaning the windows with a shop rag. Roof and Rafters are next with some pics coming on the castings.
Bill
January 2013
Ken-
Way to go on your first SW kit! Very nice look on your boards. Color and texture are spot on. Did you do anything special other than the brass brush to get that rough-sawn look? It’s very convincing. Knots and nail holes all look good and you’ve got real nice definition on the slats of the doors.
As far as suggestions, most have already been pointed out. When spacing boards for walls, I’ve tried to go no bigger than a business card or a razor blade to size the gap (that’s in HO). When you add the view block of black construction paper it will help prevent seeing all the way through the building.
This is very good work–you should be proud of it! Have fun and keep posting pictures.
Bill
KKarns
January 2013
Bill, Really nice to hear from you! You are somewhat of a legend with your Twin Mills build. Gee wiz, I must have looked through that thread a dozen times. Not only the build but your diorama was ridiculous. I learned so much just following that build. Then of course there’s Brett’s manuals…
Anyway..I used a brass brush ( 1 x 3/4) with 1/2 inch bristles so for the wood it was a bit big with the bristles a bit stiffer than the smaller brush. I brushed both before the Grime wash and after. I did dry brush the boards the Boxcar Red per the manual so there is a hint of faded red. My final coloring on the boards was darker than I had planned so I went real light on the red just giving a hint.
Just about done with the larger castings and will be posting those. Off to work on the roof.
Thanks again for your tutelage and encouragement. It’s this interaction that makes this “work” so much fun.
Ken
KKarns
January 2013
Here are a few pics of almost all the resin castings for the tool shed. I haven’t tried the metal castings yet, that’s next.
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Details look great Ken, sharp definition, muted colours very tidy paint work. Very well done indeed.
As for the windows on the shed I’m not sure what you dont like about them… they are perfect for old, dirty, half-ass wiped clean shed windows. I really dont see how they could be any better.
I really, REALLY hope you have left them alone and not tried to “fix” them.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2013
Karl, I aint touchen em, and if anyone complains I’ll tell em Karl said so! They do actually look good at scale.
I see there are some metal castings of wood items such as the pallets. The manual recommends treating all metal castings with product like A-West Blacken-It. Is that needed for castings that will be wood? I understand on metal stuff to get that aged patina.
-K
KKarns
January 2013
Couldn’t help taking one more shot of things just set together.
KKarns
January 2013
Also wanted to try the addition of old oily rags. Followed the manual recommendation and colored paper towel with Box Car Red then a bit of Grimy Black. I glued them to the top side of an old crate. Also figured out the heavy weathering technique on the old drums. I was trying it with my brush too wet with pra. Tried it with an almost dry brush and that was it!
Karl.A
January 2013
Ken,
you have definately got “the touch”…
Trying something out and then adjusting it slightly to get the right result is alot of the battle… you obviously have no qualms in doing this, which is showing in your results.
Very nice.
Blackening the metal details which are to represent wood, such as pallets, gives the casting some ‘tooth’ for the base layer of paint to stick to better.
Also, if for some reason the paint/weathering does chip off at some point in the future you will be left with a dull black chip, which is easily fixable.
Without the blackening you would be left with a shiney metal spot… not good at all for something like a wooden pallet.
Karl.A
Wes
January 2013
Ken you really are producing some brilliant work. Those castings are awesome.
KKarns
January 2013
Wes, Thanks for the comment it’s great having you guys and the forum to bounce ideas around and get the feed-back that lets you know you’re on the right track. I’m afraid I’m hopelessly addicted! I tried some of the metal castings and think I’ve got the “feel” for these to some extent. Have been neglecting the Tool Shed roof as I Have been having too much fun with the castings! Ken.
admin
January 2013
What I look for is subtlety. When I am teaching classes I can identify the folks who “get it” right away by looking for the way they apply color, texture, etc… You understand how to achieve an effect without overdoing it! Well done. Keep at it Bro!
KKarns
January 2013
Admin, Thank you ole wise one…appreciate the feed-back and I am working hard to do your products justice! Simply amazing castings…I love these guys!
Here is a pic of my first go at the metal castings…not sure which I like better working with metal or resin..hmm.
Kevin
January 2013
They look very good to me Ken. I really like the large pulley and the pump. One suggestion for the tools would be to lightly buff the faces to show some wear. As Brett says you get the idea of being subtle and that is huge for a beginner. Very well done!
Kevin
KKarns
January 2013
Hi Kevin, Awesome you noticed that! When you say faces I assume you mean the contact surface if the tool was used like the blade of the axe and flat surface of the sledge. Confirm and I’ll dress this up. The Tool Shed only has two free standing tools like that but the other kits I’ll be building have a bunch so it will be nice to get this technique down. I’ll re-work and send you an update…thanks again. Ken
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Axe edges, hammer heads, gear teeth, basically any surface on any detail that would get wear and tear in the real world, anvils, pully wheel faces, corners of machinery, think about how things are used and look at what is in your garage/shop, or all around you…
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
January 2013
Thnk “wear points”. Anyplace a surface will get rubs, scraps, hits, scratches, ground…
Looks like you were doing this already on the edge of the gear behind your corn broom.
KKarns
January 2013
Hey Alan,
Glad you pointed out the gear wear as an example. I actually got that wear by accident and liked the look. I’ll re-work the tools and should be able to make that technique an automatic from here on out for obviously “used” tools and equipment…junk piles withstanding! Off for a spirit evaluation (cold beer) and my first work on a tar paper roof…Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Hi Ken,
I really like the color of the walls and the knotholes. The castings are really top notch too. The boards look punky like they have been out in the weather for some time.
Did you use diasol or another thinning agent when you made your grime wash? I am wondering if the thinning agent makes the color appear differently or not or wether it is the amount of thinned paint that is applied that really is the determining factor.
The knotholes are excellent and I am struggling with this. The knotholes really add detail and depth to the individual boards. Could you give a small tutorial how you did the knotholes?
Thank you for the help.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Hi Jim, Nice to hear from you and thanks for your comments. As I mentioned I’m really enjoying these kits and am totally hooked on Brett’s entire set-up.
For the boards, I used a diluted wash of Floquil Grime and Thinner. Dipped a brush in the Floquil and dabbed it on my glass then into thinner and back on the glass and mixed it with the grime to get a thinned down Grime. Then I brushed the wood on all sides with a loaded brush of the wash and set aside to dry. Of course the wood was previously brush with a brass brush back and forth with the grain. This is exactly by Brett’s instructions in the manual. The big variable comes next with how much you brush the wood AFTER the Grime wash is dry. I only let the wood get dry to the touch before brushing, maybe only 15-20 minutes. I brushed until I got the color I liked. Then I very lightly dry brushed the wood with a bit of Floquil Box Car Red, again exactly per Brett’s instruction. I further stress the wood by taking my #11 knife blade and made various cuts along the boards. I then took a small brush and lightly dabbed some raw umber chalk (408.3) on the freshly exposed wood to age it. I did the same thing to the bottoms of all the boards to give them that aged look where they soaked up water, dirt, mud, etc. Just a little though.
The knotholes were done per Brett’s instructions with minor Ken thrown in. I poked a hole in a board with a larger sized pin. I then pushed the tip of a tooth pick through the hole, not very far as you don’t want a very big knot for HO Scale, until it was tight (no glue) and then snipped it off with some fine snips. Now, make sure you snip the exposed tooth pick off so the “smush” is running the same direction as the long run of the board or with the grain. When you snip the wood, it compresses it a bit making it slightly oblong. This should run with the grain. I then took my #11 blade and lightly carved out a larger “smush” shape simulating how the wood grain would flow around the knot hole. I actually removed a very thin layer of wood in this shape. I then dabbed some 408.3 chalk on the knot hole and carved area aging and accentuating the knot hole. If the knot hole sticks out too far just simply push it in as far as you like since there was no glue used just the friction of the tooth pick in a smaller hole.
One important point for me that I have not seen mentioned is the use of GOOD magnification and lighting for this work. I actually use a microscope! Yup, a real good quality stereo microscope mounted on a boom arm. Hope that helps and great “talkin” with you.
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Hi Ken,
Wow ! Thank you for the tutorial. I am also hooked on Brett’s Kits. Brett’s instructions and overal design are superb. I am really trying to improve my modeling skills. There are so many fantastic modelers on the forum. I feel very fortunate everyone is kind and willing to share their knowledge to help others who have the same desire to bring Brett’s kits to life.
Thanks again for the help! Looking foward to your next post.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Jim, No problem. Brett’s instructions on the Tool Shed does not call for chalk weathering on the siding and I didn’t use any other than on the knot holes and cut areas. The instructions on the Lineside Shed does call for coloring and weathering using the chalk powder method. Can’t wait to try it. I’ll be posting the completed roof of the Tool Shed hopefully tonight. -K
KKarns
January 2013
Here are some pics of the “finished” roof of my Tool Shed build. Comments?
I tore the paper with a straight edge rather than cutting with scissors to give it a more ragged edge…too much? I glued the edge down here and there to give it a undulating apperance, may need to do more of that. Kind of light on the streaking? Things that’ll keep a person up at night…-K
admin
January 2013
Tarpaper looks great, edges just right. What a wonderful job so far!
Karl.A
January 2013
I also ‘tear’ my edges using a straight edge to get that effect, personally I like it .
Roof looks great !!
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2013
Whew…great, thanks guys. Such a big step as the roof.. was stressing, in a good way, that I was on track with it. What a great first build to start with, able to concentrate on small details that will carry over to larger, more complex builds coming up…Ken
brownbr
January 2013
Great job on the castings and the tarpaper roof.
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Hi Ken,
Excellent job on the roof and the rafters. I also like the torn edges of the roof. It is not overdone and fits the overall aged look of the building. I can’t wait till I see what you do with the lineside shed as well. Are you going to finish the other kit and put both together in a diorama?
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Hey Bryan, Thanks for the comment. I was really unsure on how the roof was going to pan out. Such an important feature!
Jim, Roof rafters were tricky as Brett commented in the manual, particularly in HO Scale! I did all the glueing under the scope. As my comment to Bryan indicated, the roof was like…take a deep breath and have at it. I figured with the size paper I had I could tear it once or twice and if I didn’t like it could scissor cut the rest and have enough to finish it.
My idea on the “Sheds” was to combine the Tool Shed and Lineside, as they are very different in style and coloring and would compliment each other really nice, and place them together in a diorama on my layout. I think adding a nicely weathered old truck like a flat bed or old Model-T type pick-up would be nice. You know…I don’t know about you but Brett’s kits are so awesome I find myself planning my layout around his kits rather than the other way around! -Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Ken, I am the same. I have been planning my layout around his kits too. The layout plan I found in an old Model Railroader seemed to be made for Brett’s kits. I am planning on adding the rigging shed with the lineside shed and tool shed as well grouped together. It seems they should go together. Brett’s kits compliment each other very well making a beautiful scene. Bryan’s current build definetely shows how great these kits go together to complete a scene.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Hey Jim, What size layout and what scale? have you completed the Rigging Shed?
Ken
KKarns
January 2013
Almost completed Tool Shed…Need to put in nail holes on platform decking front edge and maybe some cross bracing underneath the shed. Platform decking may be too light…any thoughts there? I may do a smidge of dry brushing with some Grime Black or brown. I did however want a bit of a sun bleached look but may need more contrasty areas. I’ll set-up a mock diorama with just the castings and say it’s done for now…
…I’ll be featuring the Lineside Shed next…Ken
brownbr
January 2013
The more I look at this the more I like the walls. The color and texture is great.
KKarns
January 2013
Bryan, thanks…do you think the platform decking is too light? It’s a bit darker in reality as the picture shows it a tad lighter but still may need something…Ken
brownbr
January 2013
It looks sun-bleached which is good. Maybe a subtle dirty path where the workers would be walking.
Wes
January 2013
It looks really really good Ken.
The third last picture has got to be my favourite. I love the way the bottom of the deck
posts are a bit darker where moisture would wick up.
Great stuff.
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Ken, my layout is 6 x 12 feet and is HO scale. I am still working on the benchwork, planning around Brett’s kits. The plan is from MR Saginas and Manistee Lumber CO. RR. I really want to do dual guage but most likely will not and will stick to HO scale only.
The rigging shed is done. The roof is built in 2 parts and then attached. The laser cut stud walls make it easy to attach individual boards like your build . It was the quickest of the kits in the Logging Essentials. I am trying to build lights from Ngineering so I can light up this building , the fuel depot and others. Hopefully this week if I get in gear.
I think the deck looks good and might be better yet if the end cuts have color added and a dirty trail from people walking is added. I think the deck seems a shade too light compared to the building. I hope this helps.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Wes, Awesome that you noticed the deck legs. That’s the exact effect I was shooting for.
I used Higgins Ink straight on the very bottoms then a wet brush of pra was dabbed over the ink then followed by some chalk (408.9) Didn’t want quite the harsh effect as if it were posts in water.
Hey Jim, You’ve got a good eye! I will be working to correct just the issues you pointed out. Darken up the platform decking just a bit overall then a faint traffic path and then dirty up the board ends a bit. Great…you’ll have to let me see your track plan if you don’t mind as mine is 8 x 13 so we’re right on. LIghted buildings would be really nice…pictures, pictures??
Ken
KKarns
January 2013
Re-worked the deck by a general slight darkening and a bit darker traffic area. Used a dry brushing of Grimy Black and touched up the board ends with some chalk. I think it works better with the Shed siding.
MikeM
January 2013
I’m wondering what the back story is for the broken deck brace on the lower right; the ends look like a very clean break, perhaps suggesting some kind of collision, yet it doesn’t look like it caved in at all. This is a great build and I’m looking forward to seeing how it will look with the details added.
KKarns
January 2013
Hi Mike: I’m afraid I broke what I bet is one of the rules of modeling…creating an effect without thinking it through as to how it could have occurred! Once you pointed out the clean, unweathered break and the pieces not bent back…Geesh! it looked crappy. I re-worked the piece and now have a more tragic break..one that’s bent back obviously by something contacting it, but awhile ago (since cleaned up)…or I may place an old oil drum with the edge pushed in there at an angle. Thanks so much for your suggestion.
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Ken, your latest couple of posts have gotten me nervous…
Such a magnificent job on the shed but, now (to me) you seem to be over anxious and over enthusiastic about the deck. This area could have more impact on the build than the roof.
Take some well meant advice and just pause for a short while… I’ll talk to you tomorrow.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2013
Karl, Look forward to your wisdom here…I think the deck is looking real good right now. I have not glued down the shed yet so there’s room for noodling it a bit. The two pics above are the re-do on the break of the one brace and the wear on the deck. I have since toned down the wear on the deck a bit as I think it got too dark. Reel me in if needed!
Ken
KKarns
January 2013
Completed Tool Shed with castings roughly staged. Lineside Shed build has been started and will post this build as it evolves. -K
Karl.A
January 2013
Fantastic job Ken, beautiful results,
As I said earlier these pictures would pass for O scale all day long,
especially the structure.
I’m really looking forward to what you do on the line side build,
judging from this it should be a real gem !
Karl.A
brownbr
January 2013
All of the details look nice and old. Dusty and crusty…just right.
KKarns
January 2013
Thanks Karl…started the LineSide yesterday and so far so good. I love the contrasting siding coloration between the two structures Brett recommends.
Bryan…Dusty and crusty…I like that!
brownbr
January 2013
Perhaps even rusty
KKarns
January 2013
Lets coin “DC&R” for proper casting treatment!
Wes
January 2013
Ken youve really produced a masterpiece here.
Looking forward to the lineside shed.
KKarns
January 2013
Thanks Wes! Here’s my dilemma…and I’d love to hear comments and thoughts…I’m building these terrific kits at the same time that I’m planning my early 1900s Pacific Northwest Logging Railroad. AS I mentioned, I find myself modeling the railroad around Brett’s kits and don’t have a specific place to put them yet. You guys put together these fantastic dioramas that I have to wait on until my layout is underway. I thought about putting together a diorama on the same material as my base on the layout then incorporating it in the layout but…I don’t think that would work so good? Also, in reading ahead on my “stash” of kits, Brett instructs to attach various steps (flooring as an example) to the “base” that I don’t have..hmm..
brownbr
January 2013
What you are thinking is very doable. In fact that’s pretty much how I am building my structures. What material will you be using as the sub-roadbed? I have built mine on several different materials:
1/2" pink foam. Great material but thicker than my 3/8" homasote
Homasote I do not recommend for a base as it will warp
2 layers of gator foam. Excellent material and is the same thickness as my homasote but very expensive. I only used it for the tractor repair shed since the tracks needed to be level.
Will be building the rest using pink foam probably.
KKarns
January 2013
I haven’t decided on what to use as my base yet. Your input helps..thanks. I’m just visualizing putting a separate diorama together then needing to possibly change it if my layout scheme changes before it’s incorporated. I may need to move this thread to another category? -K
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Ken-Excellent job. Everything fits together very well. You should be very proud of what you have done. Looking foward to the next build.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Hey Jim…Thanks for the note…I’m starting another thread on the LineSide Shed tonight!
Ken
KKarns
October 2016
Wow Ed, you are checking out some of that older stuff. Yep, my first SWSM build was that Tool Shed. It accomplished just what it was designed to do and that is introduce the modeler to the SWSM line of kits in a manageable yet detailed build. I learned so much from that first kit and went on from there.
Thanks so much for your thoughts on it Ed, brings back fond memories of getting hooked on SWSMs…Ken
geoawelch
October 2018
Hey Ken, interesting to see where it all started for you. Excellent work, even at the start.
George
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Yet another case of learning from a long buried thread
Terry
KKarns
October 2018
Oh Geesh!..oldy moldy…yup my very first SierraWest build and as a matter of fact, my very first craftsman kit! Right after that one I built the Lineside Shed.
BILLR
October 2018
My thanks to Ken and to the archivist who brought this post forward. The fact that we can now see his original “oldy moldy build” as well as Ken’s current masterful work on the “Foundry” at the same time is a great door-opener for encouraging other background viewers to submit posts of their own “First craftsman kit”.
This group is all about helping and encouraging the development of modeling skills. Ask questions and seek suggestions…Their responses are always helpful and constructive.
In fact it’s also probably time for Brett to release a new “shed kit” to serve as that first modestly-priced training tool for the next group of masters. All of us can probably find a spot for a framed shed/office whether it’s still in-use or now aged and abandoned.
Bill R
Dave_S
October 2018
Ken,
Very glad to see this build be brought out of the “way back machine”. It gives us the opportunity to see your development as an artist/builder. Looking at this build one can see the “seed” of ideas that have been germinating and now brought forward into full flowering by more builds, idea development, more study of the prototypical buildings in your environment with further experimentation and now culminating in your current build of the Foundry. It is amazing to see what can be done with carefully designed and developed kits. Thanks for sharing your ideas, your methods and posting all the great photos that help us learn.
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
Karl.A
October 2018
This thread is so inspiring to look back on, to read through the old posts and follow
the progress again.
Thanks once more Ken for sharing your initial experience with us, and,
thanks George for bringing it back up for others to enjoy and get inspiration from.
Karl.A
KKarns
October 2018
You are so right Bill, George is picking on me showing my early stuff!..many things I would do different but wouldn’t change the experience for anything. So much excitement getting involved with SierraWest and you folks on the forum during those times…and amazingly the excitement hasn’t let up since!
You are most welcome Dave and everyone has been kind not to brow beat me too much on that build. I chuckle a bit looking at the siding or lack of it in some spots! I was determined to do better with the wood and have made this my goal of every build since…
I went to my file after reading the responses here and pulled the one on the Tool Shed and here is a quote from the manual that I will always remember, from page 2, 1st column, bottom paragraph:
Brett States:
“Weathering and coloring the stripwood is the single most important part of building the shed.”
I took it from then on to mean any SierraWest Scale Model kit.
I responding to Karl by not responding to Karl…but rather responding to everyone on the forum. When I decided to order my first craftsman kit it was an obvious choice to go with a SierraWest Kit. I called Brett and and beside him wondering “who’s this goofball” he was nothing but helpful and encouraging. He didn’t try and sell me…he tried to inspire me, which he has done ever since. Once I started building the Tool Shed and posting it…enter Karl Allison…also, one who inspired me and challenged me to do better. If my work was good he said so AND…and this part was/is so important to me…AND if it was crap, he said so! Nobody improves if nobody challenges you…that’s what I love about this forum and you all…no fluff, no “it looks wonderful” when it doesn’t just good constructive feed-back so we all learn and build and enjoy this stuff together.
geoawelch
October 2018
Hey, Ken, you started out of the gate as a savant.
Just received my shipment from Brett today so am at that “really excited to start an SW kit stage” you mentioned above
George
KKarns
October 2018
Well thanks George…oh you lucky guy! I love starting a new kit…
Karl.A
October 2018
Great news George, cant wait for you to start a new thread and then be able to follow along with your journey and progress. Take your time and enjoy it all !!
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
October 2018 edited October 2018
No pressure, George But I’m also waiting for your build thread. ;-))
Terry
Jeroen
September 2022
I was looking through your ‘older’ work Ken. Although this is superbly done its incredible to see how far you have reached since then. 2018-2022… and all that progress. It gives me hope! 