This thread was started in July, 2016
KKarns
July 2016 in Techniques
Although the part discussed here is being applied to O’Neills Fabrication, I thought it appropriate to start a new discussion regarding the detailing of castings so as not to muddle up the O’Neills build thread with casting issues that can be applied across all builds.
One problem I have encountered, and would assume others have as well, is keeping the various exhaust stacks, particularly the heavier metal castings, that are mounted on steep pitched roofs from moving whilst the epoxy or other adhesives dry. The castings from Brett are unquestionably the finest in the industry…period! They come with the correct angle cast in the base for mounting on the various roof pitches in the kits. An epoxy “blob” is applied to the base and when “gummy” or “tacky” set in place. I like my stacks, most often, straight and level so I’m constantly leveling my stack as it dries and I have had instances where the stack starts to slide down the roof a bit leaving an unsightly epoxy “skid mark” on the roof!
As a result I have used the following simple technique that elevates the issue completely allowing me ample time to “fiddle” with keeping my stack positioned vertically where I want it without fear of it slipping down the roof:
As part of my fine detailing of these stacks, I file the angled base as flat as I can being mindful not to change the angle cast in the stack base. I then drill a hole in the base at the same angle of the stacks vertical attitude. I then epoxy a small pre-cut piece of metal rod into the hole with several millimeters protruding from the base (see illustration below). I make sure to clean and epoxy that smushes (it’s a word…look it up!) out of the hole so the angled flat base fits cleanly on the roof. Once dry I then proceed with blackening the stack and final weathering. The epoxy is impervious to the blackening and keeps the blackening solution out of the hole which can be difficult to flush out even with soaking in water.
I then carefully drill a hole in the appropriate location on the roof at an angle that is close to the angle of the stack. this doesn’t have to be exact. I then proceed with the epoxy “blob” and insert the rod into the hole in the roof and am now assured the stack will stay in place with my only concern being the vertical orientation which I can easily keep an eye on until fully dry. The hole in the roof should be a bit bigger than the rod to allow for vertical adjustments.
Exhaust stack for O’Neills Fabrication, Tower application. Note the rod protruding from drilled hole in angled base.
Close up of same. Note the file marks on the stack pipe. All part of fine casting detail prep.
Stack ready for blackening and final detail weathering. Note the stack weather cap. I drilled out the metal casting material from under the curved cap which is virtually impossible to cast that way but illustrates the level of detail that these wonderful castings deserve.
Comments
KKarns
July 2016
Better image illustrating the drilled out cap detail…
admin
July 2016
That’s a mighty fine explanation and how to. Really takes the casting to another level. I like the idea of a thread like this to see how the castings are being weathered and then utilized.
KKarns
July 2016 edited July 2016
Thanks Brett and I have been meaning to get a thread like this started and will continue to expand on it as I work through the generous numbers of O’Neills castings, both metal and resin. As it has been said before me, “treat each casting like a model into itself” and you’ll be amazed at the results you obtain…Ken
nextceo
July 2016
Thanks for the explanation. The hole you drilled doesn’t look round but more square…the way its suppose to look. Did you use a small file to square off the edges?
KKarns
July 2016 65.24.55.94
Alan, I used a #11 blade to clean out and shape the hole. Cool you noticed that!
ironmountainlumber
July 2016
Ken, that is a fantastic idea to keep the roof castings in place while adjusting and glueing.
Jim
KKarns
July 2016
Oh yea Jim, works like a charm. I just finished up the Tower Roof details; a final and an exhaust stack and the exhaust stack is glued to the Tower Roof that has a very steep pitch. I just stuck it on and just kept an eye on it for vertical straightness with no fear of it tipping over or sliding down the roof. Pictures coming up in a few hours…Ken
Geezerbill
August 2016
Ken,
What a simple but GREAT idea. It’s one of those “why in the heck didn’t I think of that.” I have had that problem many times. Thanks so much for sharing it along with all your other wonderful modeling skills!
Bill
KKarns
August 2016
Glad to know someone else has experienced the same thing Bill and appreciate your comments here. I plan to add to this thread on detailing and working up castings more specifically for O’Neills, as there are other threads on detailing castings, but applicable to all of course. Thanks again…Ken
Wes
August 2016
Thanks Ken. Ill be sure to bookmark that idea. If you have anymore, please post them.
KKarns
September 2016
The next featured castings I detailed from the O’Neills collection are the two scalloped resin hanging lamps. One gets positioned under the Dock Overhang and the other centered under the addition.
I decided to use a main support rod with external wiring to dress up these guys a bit and add a different look compared to the other three external lamps.
I started by measuring the support rod (brass rod included in the kit) length to where I wanted the lamps to be positioned and cut. I then blackened both support rods. After a light buffing I primed in brown paint and when that cured went back over with an off white. Once the white was dry to the touch I picked at the paint with a tooth pick and then weathered with chalks. The lamp shades were primed and painted green and then picked and weathered with chalks. I then drilled a small hole in the side of the shade base and took some thin thread and weathered with chalks and glues one end in the h9ole and then wrapped and glued the other end to the tip of the rod. This portion will not show as it is mounted up under the overhead roofs. A small blob of epoxy simulating a light bulb and theses guys are ready to install.
Here’s a silhouette shot of the light assembly installed under O’Neills Addition.
KKarns
September 2016 edited September 2016
Finished up the wonderfully detailed resin Sump Casting. Concrete pad and steel sump grate…
nextceo
September 2016
Awesome work on the Sump Platform.
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks Alan, a great casting from SWSM for sure.
SteveCuster
September 2016
Looks great Ken. The concrete is excellent.
-Steve
nextceo
September 2016
What colors did you use to paint it? Just Brett’s concrete color? Also, what did you do for the cool rusting look on top?
Jerryrgs
September 2016
These are great lampshades. Thanks for your info on detailing them. I hope to install LEDs in mine when I get that far.
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks Steve. That casting is just great to work with.
Alan, primed with grey spray paint then followed with brushed on concrete. Highlighted cracks and texture by brushing on dry black chalk and wiping off excess with my fingers leaving the low areas dark then followed with light dusting on top with a dark rust and 408.3.
Appreciate that Jerry. Texture appears a bit rough due to the close shot but at scale looks much smoother. Will get a few shots soon of the lights installed on the Main Building
Geezerbill
September 2016
Very, Very nice Ken!
Bill
admin
September 2016
Well Dr. Grunge has struck again. Love the sump casting and the profile shot of the lamp is excellent!
KKarns
September 2016
Hey Bill, appreciate that. Amazing detail cast into that sump pad.
Thanks much Brett and couldn’t pass up sharing the cool profile shot of the lamp.
Wes
September 2016
Dr grunge is a very appropriate name for sure. Great castings Ken.
KKarns
September 2016
I’ve been called much worse Wes!..Dr. Grunge is my name…dirt and grime is my game!
KKarns
September 2016
Next up is the Welding Shop “Kerosene” tank. As most of you know, I love tanks and this one is wonderfully designed with the laser cut supports that are thin and so prototypical. I weathered the tank by applying a base coat of primer, and in this case brown, once this was cured I applied an application of Reaper SW Concrete from my SierraWest paint set available on the web-site here. Once dry to the touch I used the wire brush technique and careful targeted picking and scraping of the top coat exposing the primer coat. This was followed by a dusting of rust chalk and some black around the valve, etc..
I worked mine up with a hose lopped around the valve for effect, but certainly not something that needs to be done for this tank to look great. Supports were primed and rusted with chalk. Next up will be the Oil Drum Tipping Cradle…Ken
I may have gotten a bit carried away with the pictures…oh well…suffer through it!
Just in case you’re going to suggest I climb up there and clean that vent out…here’s a shot of how small this thing is and the incredible detail Brett designed into it…Ken
nextceo
September 2016
Tank looks awesome Kenny…kust kinda disappointed you didnt add welding joints…lol
SteveCuster
September 2016
Looks great Ken. The rust looks terrific
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks Alan, I’m hoping Bryan doesn’t see it and call me out on the same thing!
Appreciate that Steve, on to the next casting…Tipping Cradle…
admin
September 2016
I’m sending my O Scale tank and tipping cradle to you Ken… geez that looks unreal.
Jerryrgs
September 2016
Brett that is a great idea. I will just send all my casting to Ken to paint and weather for me. Since he is now retired I am sure he will have time to do them for me.
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks much Brett. Great piece, combining a resin casting and laser cut support details…well conceived.
Nice hearing from you Jerry…Dr. Grunge’s garage is now open for business!
Jerryrgs
September 2016
Business? I thought you were going to do them for free so you could get better
at detailing casting.
KKarns said:
Nice hearing from you Jerry…Dr. Grunge’s garage is now open for business!
brownbr
September 2016
Very nice. The scratched paint finish has a great deal of depth and the kerosene stains look very natural.
Welding joints. Hmmm…I was thinking more along the lines of a nozzle on the end of the hose.
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks Bryan. I’m working on a nozzle…really I am…
Here is a suite of resin castings. The large open cabinet lives outside the Main Building under the addition. The two workbenches get strip wood legs and supports and are destine for the Welding Shop interior as is the smaller open cabinet. Not quite done as I take pictures to see what I want to work on further. Hacksaw blade looks too bright so will work on that and several other small issues but essentially these are ready to go.
brownbr
September 2016
Hard to believe the detail in those castings. You sure did them justice.
KKarns
September 2016
Appreciate that Bryan. I figure Brett works very hard to produce the finest castings available anywhere, so I try and finish them up with same care and attention to detail as best I can.
MitchN
September 2016
Ken,
I really enjoy your pictures (for me, more is better) and descriptions of the techniques you use to finish these details. Keep them coming please.
Mitch
KKarns
September 2016
Glad to hear that Mitch as it is hard to know if I’m posting too many and boring folks. Pictures are a great tool for checking and critiquing your work as you know. I also use the images to document my builds and then put those together later in a binder along with notes, sketches, documents such as the bible…or, uhh, I mean manual, etc..
admin
September 2016
Wow, excellent my man… unreal job. OK, I’m sending Ken all of my castings now!!!
KKarns
September 2016
Appreciate that Brett, and maybe I can retire a bit early…hmm…
Had a ball going through the various colors of the SWSM/Reaper paint set I acquired here. Getting a feel for my favorites already!
KCSTrains
September 2016
Ken, thanks for creating this separate thread. Your work is incredible!! Thanks for the details in achieving the “look!” Phil
KKarns
September 2016
Thanks much Phil. Better to put the casting detail in another thread in order to focus on those details and not slow down the structure/diorama official build thread. Allows more time to show lots of images and table any discussions
KKarns
September 2016 65.24.55.94
Just finished up the Oil Drum Tipping Cradle that will be positioned on the Sum Pad. Barrel and support was treated with the same color and finish as the Kerosene Tank for the Welding Shop. What a great detail Brett included here.
nextceo
September 2016
Looks good Kenny…but where are the wheels? Lol
admin
September 2016
Well the HO Scale tipping cradle is small, really small and if I had chosen to supply wheels for this detail they would have had to be about 1/32" diameter - at most - so no wheels there buddy… just too small
KKarns
October 2016 edited October 2016
Next up is one of the pole lights supplied with the O’Neills kit. There is one positioned next to the oil tank, which is where this one will live, and one at the scrapping scene near the covered loading dock.
The resin casting of the light shade in it’s own right is a great detail casting. Positioned high on a light pole I decided to impart some high detail as the underside could possibly be viewed if you crane your neck just right! The casting is flush across the bottom and has been primed in brown see (figure 1) that’s a tooth pick for scale!.
I carefully carved out the underside of the casting with a #11 blade and some fine sandpaper creating a “dished” out underside to the lampshade. I then painted the top green and the underside of the shade white. When the paint was dry to the touch, I picked and scraped the paint with a damp toothpick and then finished with some rust chalk (figure 2).
I made a light bulb by taking a small diameter piece of styrene rod and placed a blob of Epoxy on the end. I did this several times allowing the Epoxy to set between applications. This allowed me to shape the blob a bit more elongate to simulate a light bulb. I then very sparingly added some dark chalk dust to dirty the build slightly. I then grasped the styrene rod just above the bulb and trimmed off the rod with a blade. I then glued the exposed end of the styrene rod in the lampshade (figure 3)
The pole was made from brass wire supplied with O’Neills. Bent to taste around a paint brush handle, blackened, primed with brown, then painted grey, scraped and weathered the paint and rusted with chalks.
(figure 1) Note the toothpick for scale and to hold the lamp shade for the picture.
(figure 2)
(figure 3)
nextceo
October 2016 edited October 2016
Looks really good Ken. Another option to create the light bulb is to use Gallery Glass which can be found at Michaels or Hobby Lobby…or you can be a man about it and use a real light! 
Wes
October 2016
HO lightbulbs. Are you kidding me?
KKarns
October 2016
How does “Gallery Glass” work Alan? I know, more peer pressure about running actual LED wiring up the pole and out the light…soon my man, soon!
What can I say Wes, I’m over the edge aren’t I.
nextceo
October 2016
Gallery glass comes out with the constancy of Elmer Glue but dries hard with a transparent property which allows light to shine thru. I use Crystal Clear to represent glass and you can also get other colors like Ruby Red which are excellent for tail lights.
KKarns
October 2016
Nice Alan, I’ll have to try some. Thanks for the info.
KKarns
October 2016 edited October 2016
Working on O’Neills…detailing my way around the Welding Shop. Featured is one of the Oil Drum Cradles that Brett provides with O’Neills. This is easily constructed from just two laser cut pieces.
First I painted and weathered the two cradle pieces. I wanted a rather grimy and rusted appearance…go figure! I then selected the oil tank I was going to use and decided to make a petcock drain fitting. I selected a piece of round styrene rod and then a piece of smaller solder wire. I drilled a hole in the barrel just a bit bigger than the styrene rod. I then drilled a hole in the end of the styrene rod the size of the solder wire. I trimmed down the rod to the right length and glued in the bent piece of solder creating the curved spout. I glued the petcock assembly into the hole in the barrel. I then made a very small handle and used a very small rivet head on top of the handle. I Glued the Oil Drum onto the cradle and then gunked up the area around the petcock and done…Next will be the Oil Drum Rack that stores up to 6 oil drums.
Serves to illustrate how small this guy is in 1:87
Geezerbill
October 2016
Wonderful Ken. Very nice indeed.
Bill
KKarns
October 2016 edited October 2016
Thanks much Bill. Kind of interesting and fun to single out individual castings as their unique qualities tend to get overlooked when blended into a scene…
nextceo
October 2016
Looks awesome. If you ever happen to run across a drain fitting casting in HO or O scale, please let me know as I’m sure your great looking home version took quite a while to construct…and time I would rather spend on modeling rocks and bushes.
Wes
October 2016
Hey ken
Somehow I completely missed this. So will accept this update due to the sheer brilliance of it. What a wonderful piece. Its a kit in itself that little guy.
KKarns
October 2016
So I have a bit of a reprieve? That’s the plan I have adopted, that is to treat each casting like a model into itself…as you stated. Thanks for your intuitive insight here and your kind comments. Next up will be the Oil Drum Rack as I mentioned. I love the nudging!..gets me motivated to hit the bench…thanks. Ken
MitchN
October 2016
Going the extra mile detailing oil drums. Exceptional work! You keep showing us what is possible. More please.
KKarns
October 2016
Appreciate that Mitch, and thanks for your thoughts. Enjoying following along on your O’Neills as well…great work.
Here is the finished Oil Drum Rack. I decided to first feature it without any oil drums to highlight the wonderful detail Brett came up with here. This was so easy to construct with the laser cut framing and detailed assembly instructions. I primed with brown and then rusted fairly heavily. I will then decide how many drums will go on the rack then add some oil grunge appropriately, then plant in the scene along the side of the Welding Shop.
Here’s one for scale…
Ken
brownbr
October 2016
Nice rack!
KKarns
October 2016
Thanks for noticing…!
Geezerbill
October 2016
Very nice Ken! Look forward to seeing the barrels on the rack.
Bill
KKarns
October 2016
Thanks Bill…how about barrels on the rack and the rack nestled in amongst all the other wonderful SWSM castings poised along side the Welding Shop?..I know…get busy!
Geezerbill
October 2016
It’s going to look really Great Ken!
Bill
KKarns
October 2016
Quick couple of pics of the Oil Drum Rack with the final details added before it gets planted next to the Welding Shop. Bucket was made from aluminum tubing and solder for the handle…Ken
nextceo
October 2016 edited October 2016
That’s so good Kenny…looks like it could be O Scale. I like the tip on how you made the bucket.
Nice job my boy…
KKarns
October 2016
Really appreciate that Alan.
Geezerbill
October 2016
Just amazing craftsmanship Ken.
Bill
Michael_Pearce
October 2016
Ken your great guidance on detailing these castings will keep me busy for a few weeks while I try and work out where I had got to on the main build. Implementing some of your tips is certainly expanding my modelling techniques. Thanks Michael
admin
October 2016
That rack takes HO Scale to a whole new level there!!!
KKarns
October 2016
Thanks Brett, your fabulous laser cut detail components, such as the Oil Drum Rack, are so easy to build and detail yet are light years ahead of anything else out there. Such a joy to work on and make such an impact on the overall diorama…Ken
MitchN
October 2016
Ken you have been so generous sharing your detailing techniques. I was wondering if you could share your techniques for finishing the red orange welding tanks. There seems to be silver, brown and the red orange color blended together seamlessly. Of course with your work, very realistic!
KCSTrains
October 2016
Ken, you continue to amaze me with your imagination and craftsmanship. Phil
KKarns
October 2016 edited October 2016
Ahh, Mitch…glad you mentioned those tanks. O’Neills being an acetylene manufacturer, I decided to have most of my tanks in the diorama acetylene, with then a small inclusion of oxygen (green) for welding and others. My take on acetylene tank color is an orangish color…so…I primed in brown spray paint from a foo, foo, can and when that was cured (day or two) I painted them with Fireball Orange (29806), dulled to taste with SW Roof Brown (00118). Both these paints are from Brett’s Paint Set I purchased here. This dulled orange was then applied in one coat. Once that paint was dry to the touch (10-15 min) I picked and scarped the paint to taste with a #11 blade and a sharpened toothpick. Then a light going over with fine steel wool to thin down and smooth the paint. Finish with a dusting of chalk.
KKarns
October 2016
Well thank you Phil appreciate that very much.
Wes
November 2016
Good idea on the steel wool Dr Grunge. Ill definately give that a go when my O scale version gets here.
KKarns
November 2016
Good Wes, let me know what you think. This is an issue with the smaller scales as the paint after weathering appears too thick sometimes, so the steel wool thins the paint down and gives it a nice look I think.
KKarns
November 2016
Thanks much Bill and missed your comment and the next some how. Appreciate your critique and your work you’ve posted as well.
Certainly glad to hear there is some information here you can glean Michael. I get to staging all the castings before detailing and get so many layers going I have to take a picture so I can remember where things go after detailing!
steele7
November 2016
Ken, your work is truly an inspiration to others of us in HO, showing what is really achievable. Thanks for the tips. I can compare ‘side by side’ with what I am doing. Oh, well. Makes my work come out better, if not matching.
KKarns
November 2016
Thank you very much Frank and glad to hear there is some info. here you can use. Look forward to seeing some of your work…Ken
KKarns
November 2016
Quick casting I just finished. This is the small styrene stack for the Welding Shop of O’Neills. Note the steel rod mounting aid Epoxied to the inside of the hollow stack. I made small “dimples” around the stack to simulate spot welds where the stove pipe stack was welded together. I primed in brown then weathered. Also note the darker chalk around the top where soot would accumulate…Ken
MitchN
November 2016
Ken you must have 15-15 vision. Nice work.
KKarns
November 2016 edited November 2016
You’re right Mitch…some close detail work here…thanks.
Appreciate that Ed and every casting, no matter how small, works toward the overall appearance of the finished diorama, so time well spent…Ken
Wes
November 2016
Ken your philosophy of treating every part of the kit as a seperate mini kit is a good one. The final results are just a sheer joy to look at.
I mean spot welds on an HO scale stack is just crazy. You keep raising the bar higher and higher. Really wish I could get to see this in person one day.
KKarns
November 2016
Appreciate that Wes. A bit out there on that level of detailing but it’s the sum of the parts kind of thing and I really enjoy hearing from those that “get-it” like yourself. Thank goodness for the forum being a vehicle to get us all together as meeting everyone is something we would all love to do, just not practical in many cases…like yours…South Africa for crying out loud! GeeWiz…just messin with ya Wes, some day maybe?..
KKarns
November 2016
The scrapping scene details are being worked out for O’Neills. I have primed all the castings that will be used and am formulating the overall plan. The iron fence has been detailed as shown below. I primed in brown then applied white paint and removed most of that and then rusted. This fence is the backdrop for the boiler scrapping portion of the diorama. Will update the O’Neills page as this comes together…Ken
geoawelch
November 2016
Some extraordinary work on this build, Ken. Can’t wait to get mine.
KKarns
November 2016
Well thank you George, appreciate your thoughts. You’ll love this kit. Such an iconic SierraWest product, packed full of character and wonderful details.
nextceo
November 2016
Fence looks really good Kenny.
Michael_Pearce
November 2016
I love the look of the fence and like engine909 I appreciate your willingness to share. I am having a really thick moment so HELP please. What glue did you use for the two parts of the fence and also the hand trucks etc please?
KKarns
November 2016
Thanks Alan, looks much better planted with details around…more on that…
Hey Ed, the girls in college called me Kenny, and for my mom it was Kenneth…but I’ll answer to most anything! Thanks for your kind comments Ed and enjoy sharing the goods on things…working diligently on the Denver trip…
Michael, I used good ole white Elmers glue very sparingly. I use it as the water proof wood glue dries a bit fast and the white glue allows a bit of repositioning before setting. I then weighted down the fence assembly so it dried flat, nice and tight.
KKarns
November 2016
I just completed the detailing of the two open top boilers that will populate the boiler and tank scrapping scene for O’Neills. The finish on one is general rust and the other a bit more galvanized weathering appearing with oxidation. These guys will be strategically placed in the scene with cut up boilers and old tubes scattered around with other details…more later…Ken
Michael_Pearce
November 2016
I like them and they look impressive and Elmers well Aileens was perfect for the back to back gluing. Michael
admin
November 2016
Wow, those boilers are just fantastic.
KKarns
November 2016
Once again Brett comes through with a one-of-a-kind casting collection! These boilers are just fantastic with incredible detail and versatility in effect as you decide the finish and how many tubes and where in the boiler end they go. I love this as not only will the weathering finish be unique for each modeler the configuration of the tubes will be as well. Small issue that pays big dividends in the end result! I went with hollow tubes as I wanted some to have their ends crushed a bit here and there, but solid styrene tubes look great as well. I get excited about detailing one premier SWSM casting, let alone working the entire kit to completion…you talk about value!!
Thanks so much Brett for your thumbs up on these guys…
Appreciate that Michael. Glad to hear the Elmers equivalent worked well for you.
Bill
November 2016
Excellent work, Ken. Perfectly shows two different stages of age and deterioration on these little boilers.
KKarns
November 2016
Thanks Bill and nice to hear from you.
Here’s a fun little casting that I just finished up…wonderful 1:87 scale casting…Ken
admin
November 2016
I bet you made an HO Scale letter, then made an HO Scale stamp. Licked it, placed it on the envelope then took it to the local post office and had them hand cancel it…
MitchN
November 2016
Ken,
There was a mail box in the castings? I missed that. That shiny hinge on the flag is great. Your finishes on the boilers are up to Dr. Grunge standards. Wonderful!
Mitch
MikeM
November 2016
How do you model HO scale saliva? I also want to see the HO scale cancellation stamp…
Geezerbill
November 2016
Brett, I bet you are right. Ken, let us see the letter and please a tutorial on the stamp making. Kidding aside, your details are just great!!
Geezerbill
KKarns
November 2016
Stamp stuck to my tongue and I think I swallowed it!
Right Mitch, it’s a white metal casting. Thanks for your take on the boilers, they are wonderful castings…Dr. Grunge
Mailman already stopped by while I was looking for the stamp that I think I swallowed. He wanted to know why O’Neills wasn’t done yet! Told him to mind his own beeswax…Ken
KKarns
November 2016
Thanks Ed, appreciate it.
Michael_Pearce
November 2016
Ken Did I spy some extra angle “iron” supports along the sides of the Kerosene tank?
KKarns
November 2016
Ed…yea, he did! I really like it when someone looks with a critical eye…well done.
Michael, very good…you are correct. When I assembled the trusses for the tank to the tank platform, mine settled in with a more parallel attitude than the designed angle (closer at the top and wider at the bottom). This allowed the top edges of the trusses to be a wider fit and there was a gap on both sides of the tank. The angle iron closed this gap. My error my fix kind of thing.
KKarns
November 2016
Not that we don’t make mistakes…it’s how good we fix um!
KCSTrains
November 2016
Unbelievable!!!
KKarns
November 2016
Thanks much Phil, appreciate that.
Michael_Pearce
December 2016
Hi Ken
I am way back in my construction but currently looking for some hose for the Kerosene tank. Any thoughts please? Not having thing suitable I am thinking of 0.6mm or 0.8mm shrink tubing (electrical). I will probably have to get that small size from China but plenty to do while I wait delivery.
I know its not essential I aspire to reach a lowly proportion of your incredibly high standard.
Michael
KKarns
December 2016
Well thanks Michael. For my hoses I use either .015" or .022" solder wire. it takes the blackening well and of course shapes effortlessly.
Finishing up O’Neills today and should be poised to begin taking final photos tomorrow. Of course as I go through my punch list I find little do-dads that need done..
Ken
Michael_Pearce
December 2016
Appreciated Ken. It was the way you shaped it over the tap nozzle that made me think it was heat shrink tubing. Michael
geoawelch
December 2016
What a great resource to have for those of us waiting to begin our builds
KCSTrains
December 2016
I use solder as well. It’s very easy to work with. Phil