This thread was started in November, 2012
Karl.A
November 2012 edited June 2022 in Scenery
“” I see your picture of the plain dio base, do you have any from that point to finish???
Or sometime can you or someone do a thread on diorama base construction? “”
Some time ago I was asked about diorama bases and the steps that I use to bring everything together.
In answer to those questions I am starting this thread to document the steps and processes I use for diorama
construction, the vast majority of these phases are also detailed within Brett’s all encompassing manuals.
Unfortunately this is not actually a SierraWest kit, however it is detailed with purely SWSM details.. (Why
use anything other than the best, right ? )
The structure is a scratchbuild of a building found in Colorado. It is re-named for
my good friend and fellow modeller Kevin O’Niell. The structure is 99% complete, all of the details
have been painted and initially weathered, so, now it is time to bring it all together and start the
dirt work !!
This thread is definately not intended to be a “show and tell” thread, it will be awesome to hear
from all the forum members that are following along.
If you have a question please ask it… if something doesnt look quite right please point it out…
If you do something differently please offer up that alternative… If you have a suggestion on how
to make something look better, please say so… We are all here to learn and build better models.
(Of course, if you think it looks great as it is then I would also like to read those comments.)
I am currently clearing the work area and hunting down my scenery supplies in preparation of
starting tomorrow, at which point photo’s will be posted and I look forward to plenty of
input into the thread.
Karl.A
Comments
Wes
November 2012
I’ve got my popcorn and a seat upfront. Definitely looking forward to this.
My number 1 scenery problem is dirt roads. Will there be any on the diorama?
admin
November 2012
Oh Yeah… This will be fun (in a geekie sorta way)
Karl.A
November 2012
There will be one dirt road and several dirt ‘paths’ Wes, good to have you following along.
Karl.A
Kevin
November 2012
Yes, this will be fun, geekie or not Boss. Thanks again for the honour YM (spelling of honour for Nick Os’ benefit. It is a beautifully done structure and seeing the whole thing scenicked will be a treat and an education as well. I advise all forum members to follow along and ask questions as the YM works his magic.
OM
PaulSmulders
November 2012
Hi Karl,
What a great idea… scenery has always been a challenge for me. Will be following along.
Cheers,
Paul
Karl.A
November 2012
Thanks for the posts guys…
I finally got things kinda organised, I forgot how much scenery stuff I had tucked away in drawers, boxes, shelves.
Now to get some pictures taken and posted. From the ground up , literally.
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2012 edited November 2012
I like to use 3/4" foam for my bases, it is easily workable and very light. For a small diorama it is also rigid enough for plenty of support. My O scale Shelbys is on 1/2" foam (although stacked at the rear) and that is good and solid.
For this diorama I needed some elevation so I glued two pieces of foam together.
The way I do this is to smear painters caulk between the layers and then insert toothpicks through the layers at a 45degree angle from several different positions.
The reason for the toothpicks is to hold the two pieces firmly together with no movement while the caulk dries.
Note:- As there is no air permeating the foam any glue used will take a long time to dry (2-3 days dependant on glue used, sometimes longer).
Using the toothpicks allows work to continue immediately after placing the pieces together.
The foam base then had contours formed where needed and was finally ready for scenery to begin.
The structure foundation was glued directly to the foam, once this had dried the entire base was painted with a light tan latex house paint.
Immediately after painting a liberal base layer of dirt was sprinkled into the wet paint. This was then left to dry and the excess shaken off into a container several hours later.
Here is where the first photo comes in…
A good starting point for things to come…
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2012
I take alot of photos while I am working at various stages, especially the planning stages, it gives a different perspective and it is easier to change things sooner than later.
Once the base layer is dry I will sit the structure in place and check that things are working out as planned, again taking pictures from several angles, if this stage works out OK I can move on to the fun stuff of placing the details, building the story and adding the scenery…
Proportions all look good,
Trial placement and selection of details is next on the list. This is usually what takes me the most time, however, for this diorama I already spent last week working it all out and getting things ‘almost’ how I want them.
So, all I need to do now is post the pics and keep moving forward… but that will have to wait untill tomorrow.
Karl.A
WesWes
November 2012
Very cool Step by Step so far Karl. Once again, thanks for taking the time to put all this together.
Will that porch be overhanging the diorama base like that when its done?
Karl.A
November 2012
Thanks for the comments Wes,
there is a cobbled street section that will be added to the porch side of the diorama thereby eliminating the slight over hang.
It is just easier to work on the scenery with this section removed.
I’ll post a picture of it in place shortly.
Karl.A
Jerry
November 2012
Great start Karl. On the dirt you using dirt from around were you live??? Just sifted to a fine grain??
Jerry
Bill
November 2012
Thanks for doing this, Karl. I’m learning stuff already. Toothpicks to hold the foam together!?! So simple, yet effective.
Karl.A
November 2012 edited November 2012
Thanks for the posts Jerry and Bill, much appreciated.
Jerry the ‘dirt’ is actually tile grout, a blend of two colours I like, cheap and easily reproduceable.
After the base is dry detail placement planning can begin. This takes me alot of time, it’s so much easier to just follow the pictures in the manual, but, unfortunately on a scratchbuild there is no manual so trial and error ensues.
Once I am happy with the layout and placement I will take a bunch of pics for reference so that I can get things back in position when scenery starts.
Alot of the details still arent finished, and some of them arent even started at this point, but planning out the placement means that I will know exactly which details will be used and I can then concentrate on finishing them all up.
Now that I am essentially happy with most of the layout all the details can be removed and any necessary finishing can be done.
There are a couple of areas that I am not 100% happy with right now but after the rest is done and scenery added I can come back and rework them.
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2012 edited November 2012
Wes,
(unfinished) cobblestone street carved directly into the foam base…
I thought it much better to have this section removed and away from all that dilute white glue and soon to be flying scenery ‘dust’.
It will get tied back in and blended near the end of the project.
Karl.A
Wes
November 2012
Blimey those are some fantastic shots Karl. I think this is another award winning Diorama in the making for sure.
That cobblestone road is fantastic.
Jerry
December 2012
I really like the way you place the details then take a picture so you remember where they go.
That cobble stone street excellent.
Jerry
woody715
December 2012
Hi Karl - excellent modeling. Can you tell us how you did the corrugated roofing? Thanks.
Wayne Woodland
Karl.A
December 2012 edited December 2012
Thanks Wes, Jerry and Wayne, glad to have you along.
Wayne,
the corrugated was embossed over some evergreen styrene sheet to get the ridges.
A quick dip in echant to give it some tooth.
Spray painted black
Brushed with thinned grey craft paint allowing some black to show through. Great galvanised effect.
Raw sienna craft paint stippled on in a pattern to my taste.
Burnt umber craft paint stippled randomly over the sienna to give variation and depth.
Quick dust with rust coloured chalk where appropriate.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2012
As I am removing the details from the diorama I will place them roughly in order on a sheet or two of paper.
This makes it really easy to put them back as I am working on scenery and final placement.
Karl.A
woody715
December 2012
Thanks Karl for the insight on how you do your corrugated roofing - looks great.
Karl.A
December 2012
No problem Wayne, anytime.
Thanks for the comments.
Karl.A
brownbr
December 2012
Very informative step-by-step on diorama construction. the model is top notch as usual. I’m glad to see the tractor found a home.
Karl.A
December 2012 edited May 2022
I’m finally at a point where I can start replacing the details and continue with the scenery elements.
I usually work on a small area at a time laying in the major componants. The first thing to do is wet the area to be worked on. I do this with some “wet water” in an eye dropper.
The two large containers below are my basic grout mix. I use one part dark to two parts light for my main base layer of dirt as seen previously. The three smaller containers are variuos textures of ground up floral moss and leaves.
As the area now being worked on is a low traffic area I start by sprinkling on some of the darker grout and some of the finer moss blend to give the area texture and a darker colour.
I will then use a separate eye dropper to apply some diluted glue. Now is the time to start installing the main details which will be sitting on on the ground.
Apply a small drop of pure wite glue to the bottom of the detail and put it in position. Be sure to give these items a little wiggle and work them slightly into the wet dirt. This makes them part of the scene, the worst thing to look at is a ‘floater’.
Carry on placing the larger details into the wet dirt, if the area starts to dry out simply add a little more water with the eye dropper.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2012 edited December 2012
Unfortunately my cabinet was sitting slightly off the ground at the front left corner. I simply rewet the area and sprinkled on some of the lighter grout. The grout was manipulated slightly with a toothpick to look natural and eliminate the gap. Any grout dust on the cabinet was immediately dusted off with a clean dry paintbrush.
I then continued adding in the main details for the small area, adding a little water or dilute glue as required.
A few more medium sized details were added and now this area will be left to dry before moving forward with the smaller details and added scenery.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2012 edited December 2012
Questions ?
Karl.A
admin
December 2012
awesome work bro…
Wes
December 2012
No questions here. Just staring in amazement at how brilliant this looks.
Karl.A
December 2012
Thanks very much for the comments Brett and Wes, good to see that someone is following along, hopefully this will be helpful to at least one modeller out there.
After the innitial scenery and detail placement has dried in this area I then move on to adding a next layer of scenery, some small bushes, a slightly taller grass and some differentiation of the traffic areas, still needs working but the layering is starting to have effect.
Likewise the second layer of detail is temporarily put in place, lots of playing and moving around but I think I’ve found a pretty good set up. These items need to be removed again and finish weathered and then a third level can be added on top.
It takes some time, but, layering adds all important depth and realism, and it is so easy to do, as long as you have a little patience, which I dont.
Brett’s manuals taught me all about layering, texture, and how to achieve these results. I’m still waiting on the chapter for patience… or maybe I skipped over that one.
Karl.A
MikeM
December 2012 edited December 2012
Hate to tell you this but Brett’s chapter on patience doesn’t need to be written, he only has to make you think it’s being worked on so you’ll wait, and wait, and wait…all the while watching hopefully…
The most subtle way ever devised to teach patience…
Karl.A
January 2013
Pretty much done with adding the detail to this area now. Once I finish with the other areas I will come back and blend the ground cover more in the pathways and add some final weathering where needed.
Next up will be the fence line with some overgrowth and some details mixed in, more scenery based, till then..
Karl.A
Wes
January 2013
Karl the true test of a models quality is how it stands up against camera close ups.
Yours passes with flying colours. Thanks again for taking time to show the step by step process.
Jerry
January 2013
Karl
Excellent how to. Really like the way your doing the ground work. I’ll be needing that very soon. Keep teaching us.
Jerry
Kevin
January 2013
Superb!!!
Mr. O’Neill hisself, just sos ya know!
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Hello Karl,
Congratulations on first place for the structures catagory in October. Well deserved.
Thank you for doing this excellent thread. You are an fantastic teacher and all of us continue to be inspired and learn from you. This is perfect timing for me ( a newbie) since I am inching closer to putting together the Logging Essentials Kit.
Everything looks incredably real!!!
I was wondering is it possible to put wheel tracks on the diorama with grout or chaulk?
If so how would you do it? Is the metal wash tub a metal casting or did you paint it?
I think Kevin, Brett and yourself need to make a DVD or a book of techniques. It would be a huge hit!!!
Jim
brownbr
January 2013
Nice step by step on a beautiful dio. The layers of details and scenery certainly build a natural scene.
Bill
January 2013 edited January 2013
Just catching up after a couple weeks out of town and WOW! Those first two pictures you posted on Jan 1 are outstanding! Your eye for composition and balance really shows in that scene.
What a way to start the year! Can’t wait to see the fence line.
Bill
admin
January 2013
I have had the distinct privilege of watching this beauty come together. Karl HATES detailing dio’s and for the life of me cannot understand why. When you get results like he is achieving you just gotta dive in for more… and he is!
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
My number 1 scenery problem is dirt roads. Will there be any on the diorama?
Coming right up Wes…
Jim, I’ll be putting some wheel tracks here, and near the tractor in the yard…
Karl.A
Karl.A
January 2013 edited May 2023
Dirt Road / Pathway.
Rather than lowering the ground where I want the road I will generally build up the edges of the road and the center to give the effect.
The first step as with the other scenery stages is to pre-wet the area.
I’ll then sprinkle my dark grout colour over this area and build it up to create a shoulder next to the roadway.
Working in small sections I will continue to do this along the length of the roadway. building it up and maybe adding in a few small ‘rocks’ to the base layer.
I will then generally run some dilute glue over the area.
The next layer will be the ground up moss as seen earlier, the finest first leading up to a light sprinkle of the most coarse. That will complete my first ‘dirt’ layer.
I like to use the Woodland scenics ‘polyfibre’ to add some depth to my base layer. I use this NOT as described on the packet.
Tearing off a small piece I will stretch and tease it until it is VERY light and airy, also stretched to the rough shape of its intended location.
More dilute glue is dribbled onto the work area and the polyfibre is lain ontop. I will then press the polyfibre down into the glue which will eliminate almost all of the stray fibres sticking up. I take my time on this using a fingertip to make sure it is all down.
As the glue dries the polyfibre will lift slightly and the glue will dry away leaving a light airy ground base.
The last step in my basic ground cover is to sprinkle some ground up moss and a small amount of WS fine turf over the wet compressed poly fibre.
This prevents the area looking too green and blends the polyfibre back down into the dirt.
More later…
Karl.A
brownbr
January 2013
How does the glue mixture work out for you. I have had troubles in the past with it being shiny after drying. I’ve been using matte medium instead but sometimes get a white tint to the area.
Karl.A
January 2013
Hi Bryan,
I’ve never had trouble with any sheen from the glue.
The white tints are possibly caused by the talc which is added to matte medium. You can decant the matte medium to reduce/eliminate this.
Also, never shake your bottle of matte medium before using it as this will disperse any white sediment throughout your solution.
Karl.A
Wes
January 2013
Never thought of doing my roads by building the shoulder and middle sections up.
Great idea Karl.
Thanks
Karl.A
January 2013
Repeat the process of layers for the other shoulder and some in the middle to complete the dirt road.
Some higher bushes and shrubbery can now be added if desired.
Karl.A
MikeM
January 2013
Did a quick search but didn’t find it, what type/brand/color(s) of grout do you use?
Karl.A
January 2013
Mike,
I am using Polyblend sanded grout available from HomeDepot or similar though the brand shouldnt make any difference.
The colours I am using are Linen ---- basically an off white
and Summer Wheat ----- a light brown.
My base layer is made up from a dry blend of 1 part Summer Wheat to two parts Linen.
Karl.A
Wes
January 2013
Love that dog Kennel Karl. Very neat touch.
LSNRwyAl
January 2013
Go to your local tile store and ask for “Sanded Grout” and pick the colour you want. I purchased a light sand. Comes in a tub about 2 pounds.
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Thanks Wes,
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
January 2013
Love that pole Karl.
Karl.A
January 2013
Thanks Alan,
just chalk and alcohol as per Brett…
Karl.A
MikeM
January 2013
Love the vegetation in this shot, what products/manufacturer(s)? You have any rules of thumb when deciding what kind of variation to shoot for?
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Thanks Mike, there is a basic mixture of Woodland Scenics and dried flower stalks.
I’ll answer more detailed in the next process post as I took pics of most things while I was working on the fenceline area.
Karl.A
admin
January 2013
you can almost smell the scene it looks so real Mr. A…
ironmountainlumber
January 2013
Karl- The road looks great with all the different textures. Can’t wait to see more.
Jim
KKarns
January 2013
Karl, Being new to this level of modeling, your thread has been a pleasure to absorb and study. I learn a great deal by just sitting and mulling over each picture and see how many subtle details I can pick out to help me become a more accomplished modeler. Like the red paint can on the bench that was obviously moved and left a residual ring of red paint…those couple of corners are dripping with details…love it…-K
Karl.A
January 2013 edited January 2013
Thanks indeed Brett, Jim and Ken,
Yes Ken, Brett unquestionably makes the best details…
The dio is almost finished, a couple more step-by-step posts and then a plethera of photos.
Glad to read you have enjoyed it so far.
Karl.A
Wes
January 2013
Love the paint stains on the bench Karl.
Karl.A
February 2013
Finally getting around to posting info on the two fencelines.
Generally these areas are less well trodden and therefor more varied and larger vegetation can be used.
Before starting to add the scenery I will place some scrap sticks into the holes where the fence posts go.
I’ll start off with the basic layers as before. Sprinkling on the darker grout colour to define the area and then adding in some of the finest ground up moss for a little texture.
This is done dry and then dilute glue added to fix in place.
Now it is time for some greenery…
Karl.A
February 2013
I like to use the woodland scenics polyfibre as mentioned earlier to produce a light airy weedy texture.
Stretched nice and thin…
and pushed down into the wet base layer.
I will now add in some of the larger details pushed down into the dirt/weeds.
Karl.A
February 2013
Another woodland scenics product I like to use is the “Fine leaf foliage”
Picking off selected branch sections can result in some very nice fine shrubbery.
These look great poking through as if growing in the details…
Now that these main rough layers are done I will move on to the next small section and repeat the process.
More later…
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013 edited May 2022
Second fenceline starts off basically the same as the first one explained…
It’s kind of strange going back and seeing these barren old photos now that the dio is basically complete next to me.
I have always felt that good scenery is full of variety. Nature itself is extremely varied, colours, textures, sizes.
I try to use as many different items as possible in order to create the illusion of natural diversity.
I also try to imagine where things and how things would naturally grow. More dense shrubbery away from traffic, larger growth in protected/neglected areas, a small tuft of grass peeking between items that rarely get disturbed.
As with all aspects of modelling I look to the real world for guidance and ideas.
Various colours and shapes of caspia and other dried flowers from Michaels, WalMart, similar.
Dried floral moss for grinding up.
Scenic express grass tufts, various colours
As with details, I try to keep the colours muted and stay away from bright greens or yellows.
As stated previously I think about each placement, poke a hole with a nail and ‘plant’ a weed. It takes time but building slowly starting with the small items and moving up in size can give very nice results I think.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013
The ruts in the dirt road were added with the handle of a pair of scissors.
I havent done the tractor tracks in the driveway yet but will add them to the thread when I do.
I guess there’s not much else to do but post some overall pictures.
If theres any questions or anything I missed that you wanted to see just ask, I probably have pictures of it.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013
Overall pictures…
Karl.A
John_in_australia
February 2013
Fantastic… learning so much.
woody715
February 2013
Still loving this thread…Karl your work is a true inspiration.
JohnJ
February 2013
Thanks for this thread , I’m new to the hobby and find this thread very helpful. Ive already printed it off and saved it for future use.
Wes
February 2013
Karl you are a true master builder.
Thank you for taking the time to show us your process step by step. A class like this that we didnt even have to pay for is what makes this forum so great.
The overall shots are great too. 
brownbr
February 2013
The scene looks very natural and your techniques are effective and simple to reproduce. Will you be hanging the overalls on the clothes line?
Karl.A
February 2013
Thanks for the great comments guys, much appreciated.
Here are some real overall shots. everything was done using the methods outlined in this thread.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013
Karl.A
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Karl.A
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Karl.A
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Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
February 2013
Top drawer again Karl.
sfcsfc
February 2013
Clear documentation and superb execution resulting in a tremendously informative reference - Thanks for sharing your talents and expertise!
Wes
February 2013
Ill sum this up in 6 words.
SUPERB, FANTATSIC, BRILLIANT, MIND BLOWINGLY BEAUTIFUL
shay987
February 2013
I’ll second that Wes. GREAT ! Thanks for sharring your talents with us.
ironmountainlumber
February 2013
Hi Karl,
Wow! Everything is superb and pleasing to the eye. Thank you for doing this build and teaching us. The natural uses of dried plants have expanded my understanding of how to build a diorama.
I have 3 questions.
1.What is your sequence of painting the resin boxes (they look just like I would expect a real wood box would look like out in the weather)?
2.When you rust a metal casting what color mixes of chalk are you using?
3. Is there anything special you are doing to blend the chalk over a metal casting to create rust (like the tractor) to give it a natural look?
Thanks again!!!
Jim
Karl.A
February 2013
Thanks for all the great comments guys, I’m really glad that you found the information useful and maybe gave you a few ideas.
Scenery is really easy to practice on any scrap surface to experiment with effects and styles.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2013
Thanks for the kind comment and your questions Jim.
-
Wooden boxes are spray primed with Krylon Khaki in a rattle can. They are then coloured with a base chalk and alcohol when dry. A final dry brushing of light grey makes them look aged and faded.
-
The only colour chalk I use for rust is Rembrandt 411.3. Dusted and dabbed with a soft brush over the blackened metal. No fixative.
-
For something like the tractor the metal parts were all blackened and then painted solid yellow. The yellow was then chipped off with a toothpick and/or fingernail. Rust chalk was applied only to the chipped areas with a fine detail brush dry, any excess is lightly blown of. This will give you the effect you see.
Karl.A
KKarns
February 2013
Karl, A few pics back, I swear I can’t tell where your diorama stops and the real outdoors begins. It’s seamless and absolutely stunning. Your photography is equally ridiculous, when I look at those shots I feel like I could walk right into the scene and pick that stuff up. Can of Krylon Khaki…geesh…I need a can of Krylon Karl to spray all over my workbench!
Bill
February 2013
Wonderful work, Karl. The realism in those outdoor shots is jaw dropping.
Subtle color and rich textures: two staples of SW construction executed flawlessly with scenery materials.
I hope to see this in person this year!
stevo
February 2013
Wow fantastic modeling. I have learned so much, thank you for sharing it for us.
Stevo In OZ
Karl.A
February 2013
Thanks so much Ken, Bill and Stevo. much appreciated.
I will have the dio at the Expo later this year Bill, hopefully see you there.
Karl.A
admin
February 2013 edited February 2013
If we don’t get buried in the snow getting to the Expo…
sfc
February 2013
Mike,
I am using Polyblend sanded grout available from HomeDepot or similar though the brand shouldnt make any difference.
The colours I am using are Linen ---- basically an off white
and Summer Wheat ----- a light brown.
My base layer is made up from a dry blend of 1 part Summer Wheat to two parts Linen.
Karl.A
Hi Karl,
Sorry for not asking earlier but, would you recommend using grout for HO scale? The texture you have created seems quite appropriate for O scale, but might seem a bit coarse for HO? Is this more related to application or with the product? Also, you use ‘sanded’ grout as opposed to ‘non-sanded’. Is this because of issues associated with shrinkage? Or more so for added texture? Or something else all together?
I may be asking a bit much of you in this regard and maybe I should just get out and experiment. But, I thought, it might not hurt to ask. Thanks in-advance.
sfc
Karl.A
February 2013
Hi Scott,
no problem, and infact your question is one that I have been thinking about recently myself.
Working mostly in O scale I do like the texture that the sanded grout gives, and also the texture variation you can achieve.
It can be applied several ways for differing results.
The top line basics..
Sprinkled on between a finger and thumb will give a coarser texture.
Sifted on will give an even layer which still retains the sanded texture.
Rubbing the dried and fixed grout layer with a fingertip will release the sand grains and result in a smoother surface, such as a pathway.
Adding extra moisture and leveling the grout while wet (sloppy) will result in a smoother surface.
I have used the same mix on O, HO and even N dios with good results.
However, for the past year or so I have been intending to buy some unsanded grout to experiment with for smooth areas and smaller scales, I just keep forgetting to pick it up at the store. Heck I’m only at HomeDepot 5 or 6 times a week…!!
I’ll make a point of getting some unsanded this week and let you know, I cant imagine shrinkage will be a problem. I’ll post an update on how it works out.
Karl.A
MikeM
February 2013
What about mixing unsanded grout with something of a finer grit? Perhaps something like the finer grits used for sandblasting?
sfc
February 2013
Thanks for your response Karl and I am anxious to see how the ‘non-sanded’ grout works out for you - Although, I will probably pursue/attempt this route as well.
sfc
Joel
February 2013
Karl,
This is some of your finest work and honestly since your work is some of the best I’ve seen that is saying something. I plan on studying these pictures at length when I start “planting” my next building. Amazing modeling, simply stunning.
Karl.A
February 2013
Very kind words Joel, and very appreciated.
Karl.A
Joel
February 2013
You forgot “very deserved”!!!
us_okrim
April 2013
Well, l am trying Karls grout method for simulating dirt. It only took me about four trips to the orange box since I couldn’t find the polyblend sanded summerwheat grout. The linen color was readily available. First time there was no assistance to be found. The second time I found assistance ans was told that the summer wheat grout was special order, so I ordered it. Big surprise here - two weeks delivery. So a lot of waiting. The third time I showd up the grout did show yet. Finally today I got both grout colors and can now start experimenting. How crazy is this? Buying a little grout took me almost three weeks. But heh, Karl recommended it. So thats what we wil get. And now…back to making some dirt. Later…
Karl.A
April 2013 edited April 2013
Hey! don’t blame me for your inadequate local sales team at the store.. ha
In seriousness, the colours I specified are not essential, just a blend that give me a tone I personally like.
The shades certainly are not written in stone. Play around
A medium tan colour and an off white mixed should give you a blend you like. Keep notes on your ratios so that it is easily repeatable.
I look forward to seeing your experiments and ultimately the results on a diorama/layout.
Karl.A
wizard
April 2013
Always dreamed of this level of modeling. Paid money for books , videos but never had much luck. Now I have found Sierra West website and am pumped to see work like this. I have ordered Main Street from Bret and can’t wait to try some of the techniques I am learning from you guys. Karl makes it look easy, if I can get half the results he gets I will be a very happy man. This post has made my day, thank you. Bret don’t forget I have that kit ordered as I already received the chalk you recommend. Wow, great and fun. Oh and thank everyone for all the post this is life changing for me.
KKarns
April 2013
Awesome to hear someone with your enthusiasm, I thought I was the only one! Karl’s skills and eye for details is for sure one to aspire to and all the advise I have received has been exceptional. Brett has a well deserved “cult following” with his kits, which are world class for sure, and the forum is just the best. You did well finding SierraWest. -K
James
April 2013
Thanks for info on poly blend dirt - I had missed the “formula” first time around. I have a question now on an unrelated matter - does anyone know if prototypically power lines were ever buried during the early 20th century period- perhaps in heavy snow fall areas? I was thinking of “powering” a couple buildings to allow for lighting but bringing in power overhead as everyone knows is fussy work and saggy lines never look good. I also have a Crow River electric winch looking for something to do. One option is to do like blue sky in the on line model and just leave off the lines and let one,s imagination fill in the lines. Another is to have a small generator (or a dynamo in a large factory) but I don’t know of any generator kits (o scale). Another is just to create a small enclosed “generator room” addition and just say its a generator room. There are a couple old factories locally where I live which have power come up underground but these are likely later alterations.
John_in_australia
April 2013
James.
I have heard that human hair makes good power lines as it sags just right.
john.
James
April 2013
You know I googled that and you are right! I don’t know though… Human hair … Hmmmm
Seems like people began burying lines as early as the 1870s but I can’t imagine why anyone would bother in a backwoods kind of operation or rural mill etc
Bryan_K
April 2013
Thanks Karl for the awesome how-to! The finished result is so real looking I can’t tell it’s even a model. However I have a question for you… Do you add these dios to a layout eventually or do you keep them as dioramas? I have been try to figure out the layout process; like to you add the structure to the layout and build the scenery up on the layout or do you work in the completed diorama to the layout… Once again, thank you!
Bryan
Karl.A
May 2013
Thanks for the kind comments Bryan.
At some point in the future I hope to add some of the better dios to an already planned layout.
I visualize a rough placement for the structure in a layout and keep the base as small as possible.
most structures lend themselves to a certain topography.
Also I am now (very recently) trying to build scenes instead of just structures.
The scene is what it is and will have to be shoehorned into layout space, this is a reason I have started building dios just up to the track edge and not having track on the dio, it makes things easy to “adjust” later … a temporary track section can be included but with the realization it will probably be removed at the time of layout placement.
Also, I actually need to build a layout room before I can build a layout, so that may be some time away, till then I can enjoy this side of the hobby which is what I love to do.
Karl.A
James
May 2013
Yes thanks Karl - this is a very helpful thread
Jerry
May 2013
Karl
Excellent how to. Really like the way your doing the ground work. I’ll be needing that very soon. Keep teaching us.
Jerry
Jerry
May 2013
Karl
Great pictures and a very excellent how to. Beautiful job. Sorry it took so long to get back to see it all done.
Jerry
Coors2u
May 2013
Unbelievable results. I’m already making a punch list for things to pick up from the store.
JohnM
November 2013
Karl,
I have the pleasure of keeping this thread alive by adding my thanks . . . . I have not done any of this previously and am reading everyone’s threads throughout the forum for knowledge. Relative to what I have seen so far, you have covered uncovered areas. Bret is packaging up the Shipyard for me to exercise your lessons on.
My sincerest thanks & warmest regards.
John Maguire
Seattle
Lynn_Boyd
November 2013
Absolutely awesome job and such well documented techniques. It will be real nice to see all your works on a layout one day.
Lynn
Karl.A
November 2013
Thanks so much for the kind comments everyone, really appreciated. I’m glad people got something from the thread.
Karl.A
srankin6
November 2013
Karl,
excellent job explaining your techniques, one question if I may…the stacks of split firewood how do you do it…I gave up splitting and stacking firewood years ago…I know there is an easier way in miniature just can’t figure out how. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Scott
Karl.A
November 2013 edited November 2013
Thanks for the kind words Scott.
The stacks of fire wood are from sticks from the yard. I find that bush prunings are better than tree twigs because the bark is much thinner, more like a skin really, and the rings are much tighter. Azaelia, privet, boxwood to name a few. After pruning bushes I keep a select few branches in an open container in the garage to dry out, this way I always have some ready to use on hand.
I take a 1" diameter branch and cut it into scale 18" or 24" sections, this length would fit well in a fireplace, small stove or a boiler.
The ‘rounds’ are then split with a single edge razor blade the same way you would a real log. Using the ‘chopper’ can aid this step.
I like to keep the chopped wood small, oversized split firewood can spoil a great scene really quickly.
As with many modeling tasks I keep a scale figure close by to compare proportions and make sure things look ‘right’.
The process of splitting goes a lot faster and easier than you would imagine, I was very pleasantly surprised the first time I did it.
Incidentally the split wood stack is held together with very dilute white glue. I built the stack and then dripped on the glue with a pipette and let it wick and soak through the crevices..
Karl.A
srankin6
November 2013
Thanks Karl…was hoping that maybe a miniature log splitter was out there somewhere-lol-razor blades it is…hope my fingers survive…
srankin6
November 2013
Karl
,I answered the above to quickly…I sincerely appreciate the detail you provided ie. Plants used,how to glue and split the wood,as a newbie the amount of detail provided by you and many others really helps..I just hope that someday soon I can put this all in a diorama that’s worth posting.
My sincerest appreciation
Scott
Charlie
January 2014
Hello Karl and all,
This is my first post on the forum and I would like to say thanks to everyone for providing such great inspiration. The bar has been set pretty high but how cool it would be if I could model half as good as I have seen here. That’s my goal. Karl, I’m really interested in how you did that brick cobblestone. If you have a chance, I would love a quick guide. Thank you.
Charlie in Maryland
Karl.A
January 2014 edited January 2014
Hello Charlie and welcome to the forum, you have found a great place to post and enjoy looking at some great modeling.
Remember, we are all here to learn, so, post any questions you have and/or work to share with us all.
The cobblestones were simply carved directly into the Styrofoam base with an exacto and a metal straight edge. Mostly eyeballed and not measured which is why it will pass a cursory glance but closer inspection reveals that the stones are not all exactly the same sizes. <> oh well.
Colouring was… a couple coats of thinned black to get into all the joints. Then once dry tangerine orange and burgundy wine were splotched on and blended randomly to give a varying brick colour. Once dry all was dry-brushed with sandstone for highlights. All paints were cheap craft paints.
Maybe a little chalk after that, I cant remember, it was just a quick temporary thing and never got finished.
Karl.A
Charlie
January 2014
Thanks for the quick response Karl. I’m off to find some foam at H.D.
JohnM
January 2014
Karl, that photo up above is a 1:1 right? It has to be . . .
James
February 2014
I’ve always loved this build and this thread. Karl - a quick question in going over it again. Are the windows / doors on the building wood or laser board? I’m having some issues trying to colour laser board windows etc. and these window sashes and mullions etc seem to perfectly match the trims and siding (I know this is a topic on another recent thread).
Karl.A
February 2014 edited February 2014
Hi James, thanks for the kind words.
The windows and doors are all scratched from basswood/plywood which is why they match the structure so well, same material.
What are you having trouble doing exactly?
Karl.A
James
February 2014
Thanks Karl - well it’s more that I really like when the sashes match the frames and trims. With the chalk AI method described in the manuals I find that it is hard to “cover” the natural colour of the laser board ( this was just more noticeable with the Railroad Camp kit I started because of the number of windows and because I stain the wood as opposed to using the chalk AI method). The laser board colour is not necessarily a negative as the colour works well as a natural wood base. And sashes were of course often painted separate from frames and trims. …
One could airbrush them (laser board) I believe but I’d be a bit concerned about over saturating and warping them, and the colour would still not necessarily match. But I’d love to try scratch building windows from basswood too although mullions really need a narrow profile to be convincing … And of course if there are allot of windows one has think of the logistics
James
February 2014
Actually, looking at ones I’ve installed already, I think when one sees them on the carrier sheets there is more concern, but once installed the difference is really not that noticeable. It would be more of an issue if one was doing weathered painted sashes and trims as you did here…
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Always can tone / blend with the chalks.
James
February 2014
Hi Alan. I do the chalking - the chalk doesn’t always “stick” that well even with a light sanding. Or is a bit blotchy. But as noted above, once they are off the carrier sheet this really isn’t that noticeable.
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
I like what you are doing James.
James
February 2014
Thanks Alan - I tend to obsess on the little things sometimes. I guess it’s in my nature…
James
June 2015
BTW I’ve seen modellers recommend Durham’s Water Putty for forming things like roads and creek beds and such. I’ve used it for patching window trims and sills (in real life). Worth a try. Drying time can be lengthened by adding a bit of vinegar:
James
June 2015
one bonus is colour nearly matches the Polyblend “Karl’s Mix” people are using…
KCSTrains
August 2015
Karl, I know you posted this quite some time ago, but I still find it very useful in planning my layout. I have created a “Sierra West Techniques” folder and have all the really cool tips and tricks in it. I use a “Snipping Tool” computer application to copy and paste it for printing. I love all the comments, but this lets me print only the instructional parts. Of course, this thread is now in the binder.
Karl.A
August 2015
Thanks for the kind comments. I’m glad that you got some help from the thread.
Your SierraWest folder is the only one you’ll ever need, Bretts techniques are the best.
Karl.A
KCSTrains
August 2015
My other folders deal with rail cars and locomotives, scenery, and the Kansas City Southern. Don’t worry, when it comes to craftsman building and weathering, I have all that I need.
Leonard
January 2017
Great work!
A couple ways to get a finer grade to granular scenery material including grout, is to sift it through either or a cone paint filter or a piece of panty hose. You can get the cone filters at Sherwin Williams or most paint stores. The panty hose from your girl friend/ wife or Target.
Pappy
November 2018
Fantastic work!!.
Two questions.
Where did you find the wood Axes. Have look everywhere for those type of axes.
Also, what glue is suggested to glue the foam pieces together as there are many glue types.
Thanks for any help,
Pappy
Karl.A
November 2018
Thanks Pappy,
The axes are SierraWest castings, as are all of the other castings. The axes may be available shortly from Brett as I know he is working through re-releasing the detail parts and updating the website as to what is becoming available, so keep your eyes open on that.
My method for gluing the foam layers together is described on page one of this thread.
Thanks,
Karl.A
Pappy
November 2018
Thanks Karl,
Would have never thought of using Painters Caulk to glue Foam pieces together.
I will try that method.
Talked to Brett over the holiday about which foam to use.
I stated that I had bought 1" thick formular by Owens Corning at Home depot. He said that’s what he uses.
Looking forward for Brett re-releasing not only detail parts but kits sold out as well.
I have two of his kits so far..Ho scale O’neills Fabrication and Brass & Iron Foundry that I have not started yet due to building many other kits from others to get better and better…Practice…Practice..Practice!
Again Karl, your detailed builds are beautiful and please keep up the great work!!
Pappy
Karl.A
November 2018 edited November 2018
Thanks for the kind words Pappy, you’re welcome.
(Don’t forget the toothpicks on random 45s to hold the layers together and solid if you want to work on it right away..)
My one piece of advice for you, (and anyone else), don’t try to use the ‘other’ kits to ‘get better’/‘improve’……. Jump into one of Bretts SierraWest kits first if you want to learn and improve your modeling.
Grab the dueling shacks (I think they are available, I haven’t checked).
Regardless of which scale you model in you will learn so much from that kit and be able to apply those lessons/methods to anything you decide to build. You wont look back !
Of course, all of the SierraWest kits are an education in modeling and techniques and improvement, for anyone… beginner or seasoned.
From there you will be able to understand and use what you have learned from Brett and apply it to the ‘other’ kits…… I’m sure at that point you will find that ‘you’ are improving those ‘other’ kits rather than them improving you.
Most of all have fun and enjoy !!!
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
November 2018
I couldn’t agree more with karl’s Comment about SierraWest kits… I built another well known brand of kit for many years that I always considered the best there is…and then I began building Brett’s HO Railroad Camp kit…a Sierra West pushed me to try many new techniques…I still have many of the other brand which I will get to but eventually but will be using many techniques I’ve learned from Brett’s manuals and hanging out on this forum
Terry
TomMich
November 2018
I have been working on the Dueling Shacks kit. I have been modeling in HO for many years, and this kit is O Scale, but I have learned quite a bit from this kit that can be applied to any kit in any scale. I agree with Karl that SW kits are the best. They have the best materials and instructions of any kit by far.
kebmo
November 2018
amen
Pappy
December 2018
Thanks Guys for the advice. I just checked and the Dueling Shacks is available. Now to get the wife to buy it for me!
Karl.A
December 2018
Great news Pappy, you’re going to enjoy that kit, and learn a lot.
Keep us posted…
Karl.A
TomMich
December 2018
Pappy
Christmas is coming! I order SW kits and my wife gives them to me for Christmas. If they arrive before Christmas, well then I guess Christmas has come early! Working on the Dueling Shacks kit now and it has been a great learning tool and a lot of fun to build.
Tom
Pappy
December 2018
Guys, Christmas came early!!!
After a little bit of explaining to the wife the details on improving my skills on Dioramas/Weathering/Building..etc…
My better half just ordered the Dueling Shack. Will get next week.
Thanks guys,
Will keep you posted
Pappy
vietnamseabee
December 2018
Ya think if I explained to her my desire to improve my skills she would Order the O scale sawmill kit for me??? ;-))
Terry
Karl.A
December 2018
She sounds like a wonderful, understanding and supportive wife Pappy, (and she obviously has good taste) we look forward to following along in your new build thread.
I’d be happy to order it for you Terry…
(just pm me your credit card info and you’re good to go… haha)
Karl.A
Pappy
December 2018
It was a bit of convincing to the wife due to me an HO builder..all good
Pappy
December 2018
Thanks Karl and All,
Used to have a HO layout but leaning towards Diorama’s due to space. Who knows maybe I’ll build another Train layout and add all the Dioramas I have built so far.
Agree with Karl, Terry my wife said sure..whats your card number?..lol
vietnamseabee
December 2018 edited December 2018
You guys are way too sharp fer me ;-))…Just be sure and post progress photos as you work your way thru the kit.
Terry
AlexR
March 2019
karl,
i’m working on my first kits (the loco shop & donky repair).
i’ve watched as many diorama videos on youtube as i care to… I also recently bought a diorama book as well in hopes of getting additional guidance…
I was wondering; why dont you use a clay base? that seems very popular on youtube. is it too brittle to last?
i have a 12”x57” base and was wanting to do a stream with some rock formations. i did like you mentioned earlier and used two layers of 3/4” foam on a 3/4” playwood base.
any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
admin
April 2019
Want to bump this up to the top for our newest members to enjoy!
TomMich
April 2019
Thanks Brett for bringing some of these threads back up. This one has been particularly useful for me as I am starting to assemble my Morton’s diorama and have been reminded of some scenery techniques. I have viewed this thread before and in awe of Karl’s great work.
TomH
April 2020
Someone mentioned this string in another post and it’s a fantastic resource. Also, the dio is AMAZING. The pics at the end look absolutely full scale.
Robert.G
April 2020
Brett, I was asking myself, were all the castings Karl used available seperately ? Since this was not a SW kit and his build is packed with them.
Karl.A
May 2020 edited May 2020
Robert, 99% of the details came from the large SWSM detail sets that Brett sold. “Interior Detail set” , “Exterior Detail set” and I think another one I had bought years earlier.
The tractor came from my O Scale “Blue Sky” kit. The Horse Drawn Log cart was one of Brett’s personal kits from his collection that he very generously gave to me to use.
vietnamseabee
November 2021 edited November 2021
I’m getting ready to ‘spread some dirt’ on my Railroad Camp build and I’ve been referencing this thread by Karl…I thought it might be good to reactivate it as there’s a “ton” of good info here…Thanks K
Terry
vietnamseabee
November 2021
Question about the 50/50 mixture of white glue/water mix for adherence of “dirt”, ballast, etc….is there an advantage to white glue vs yellow wood glue that most of us have already have sitting on the work bench?
Terry
Karl.A
November 2021 edited January 2022
No, I always use the yellow wood glue for everything. For scenery its more dilute than 50/50 though. Maybe 5:1 or more, it’s been a while, but, that sounds about right, though not a rule.
I’ve never had a problem with the ‘basic’ yellow wood glue.
Did I say “50/50 white glue” somewhere in this thread ?? If so I’ll go back and change it as its not accurate.
I usually just say “dilute glue”…
I dilute it to a water consistency that’s easily absorbed by the scenery and doesn’t leave a residue.
vietnamseabee
November 2021
Thanks Karl…. I can’t tell you the exact page because of combined the entire thread into one document (page 19 of my document) but it’s listed as white glue on the page directly after the page where you show the two tubs of grout and three tubs of ground leaves/floral moss
Thanks again for the tutorial
Terry
Karl.A
November 2021 edited November 2021
Your welcome Terry.
and thanks, I’ll go back and find it/correct it.
EDIT: found and fixed, thanks.
JimK
January 2022
Karl, Thanks for this wonderful exposition of the techniques you use in designing, preparing and completing exquisite detailing of your award wining dioramas. Just finishing Mortons’s Foundry in HO which includes more wonderful details than any of Brett’s other kits that have built ( mostly early ones). Actually working though all the details and accompanying landscaping has been a very time consuming because of the number of areas to be modeled and the many very special details as well as the creativity required for good results. This discussion which describes a process which organizes the creative tasks in a coordinated orderly manner inspires even greater enjoyment of this part of the Sierra West experience.. Thank you sharing all this helpful guidance.
Karl.A
January 2022
Thanks for the comments and encouragement Jim, it’s always so very rewarding to read from someone who enjoys what I do, and gets something from how I do it.
The Foundry is certainly one very incredible kit packed with many scenes that are all highly detailed. However good the last SWSM kit was, Brett just keeps on evolving and stepping it up on the next one.
As I may have noted in this thread, but definitely in my more recent builds, I find it easier (for me) to concentrate on a smaller area and then move to the next, it gives me a completion satisfaction and also helps me focus better.
So pleased you enjoyed the thread. Thanks again.
JimK
January 2022
Always appreciate the advice that is given by example by you and the other terrific modelers who post build threads on this forum. One question. I have used dilute white glue, dilute Modge Podge and matt medium. I would think that yellow wood glue might be stronger and longer lasting. Which brand do you use? I like Elemer’s water proof. Thanks
Karl.A
January 2022
Just regular elmers wood glue
admin
January 2022 edited January 2022
I do not want to hijack Karl’s thread here but want to be perfectly clear. I do not suggest using the wood max glue for scenery in my manuals. I specifically call for white glue. Conversely white glue is not recommended for wood.
PLEASE (you or anyone) ask as many questions as you want! This forum is a learning/teaching tool for SW products.
Thank you.
JimK
January 2022 152.97.172.135
Karl, I believe along the way you mentioned a technique to create ruts or tire tracks using a saran wrap overlay. Cannot find this particular discussion. Could you provide a little detail on this when you have time? Your techniques and instructions, which are always expressed in " Kings English" with the utmost clarity, are treasured by me and other modelers who are working their way up the learning curve. Thanks
Jim
PaulS
January 2022
JimK said:
Your techniques and instructions, which are always expressed in " Kings English" with the utmost clarity, are treasured by me and other modelers who are working their way up the learning curve.
Well said Jim and completely agree with your assessment, always improving thanks to Karl’s efforts and information !!
Amen
Karl.A
January 2022
Thanks Jim and Paul, great to know my posts are helpful. Really appreciate the comments.
Jim, I’ll prob add tractor tracks on my Logging Tractor Repair dio shortly.
I’ll describe the process then.
Thanks again.
JimK
January 2022 edited January 2022
PaulS said:
» show previous quotes
Well said Jim and completely agree with your assessment, always improving thanks to Karl’s efforts and information !!
Amen
Paul, Thank you. I believe most everyone on the forum agrees.
kebmo
February 2022 67.184.184.80
Karl.A said:
Thanks Jim and Paul, great to know my posts are helpful. Really appreciate the comments.
Jim, I’ll prob add tractor tracks on my Logging Tractor Repair dio shortly.
I’ll describe the process then.
Thanks again.
tractor tracks would be great. i’ve been trying to figure out a way to add them on mine.
brownbr
February 2022
Military modelers have some great techniques for track marks
kebmo
February 2022 edited February 2022
i never take the time to check the military forums, and now with molly, i don’t have time for anything. soon i hope.
KiwiMal
March 2022
I’m a bit late to this one, but what a fantastic thread.
regards
Malcolm
Karl.A
March 2022 edited March 2022
Thanks Malcolm, great to see you here, (never too late).
It’s always rewarding to have a response to this work/thread, and
of course very appreciated to read.
I’m so pleased that new (and old) members and readers still get something from the
thread and, (for me), it’s always great to see it ‘pop’ back up.
I hope to do a sequel thread one day…
Thanks again.
kebmo
March 2022
Karl.A said:
Thanks Malcolm, (never too late)
It’s always rewarding to have a response to this work/thread, and
of course very appreciated to read.
I’m so pleased that new (and old) members and readers still get something from the
thread and, (for me), it’s always great to see it ‘pop’ back up.
I hope to do a sequel thread one day…
Thanks again.
like tread tracks in the mud?
Karl.A
March 2022 edited March 2022
OK Kev, coming up this week, (before Monday), because I know you
are making such great progress on your LTRS build.
I’ve got to dig out my dirt and scenery stuff to get the treads done, so this
will also give me the impetus to get back to my LTRS build and finish it off.
Dragging out all the scenery supplies from the hall closet is one thing that
has been holding me back on my LTRS, I’ve also been playing around with
several other builds/projects. (Can you say full desk !!).
I’ll clear the desk of all this other stuff over the next few days,
and then get it all messed up again with ‘dirt and details’ for you (and me)
over the weekend.
Let’s both hope for good results!!
kebmo
March 2022
can’t wait!
brownbr
March 2022
Me too