This thread was started in August, 2013
KKarns
August 2013 edited August 2013 in HO Scale Builds
With the Backwoods Water Tank & Storage Shed build done I have decided to begin work on Brett’s re-offer of Duluth Company Plumbing Wholesalers. This kit (No. 3004) was released in April of 2007 and sold out soon after. Brett re-offered this kit recently and of course I jumped at the chance to pick this build up. I decided on Duluth for a couple of reasons. Duluth’s main structure is laser cut clapboard siding which I have not yet worked with. This siding is utilized in other SW builds I will be doing so getting my feet wet here was one goal. The shingle treatment, and concrete resin castings are also things I haven’t done…and ya just got to love the covered yet open loading dock! Lots of detail, lots of character, should be a blast. I have included a picture of my first go at weathering and detailing a clapboard wall. More later…-K
Comments
Karl.A
August 2013 edited August 2013
I’m really looking forward to following your build of this kit Ken and seeing what you do with this great offering.
Wonderful design work from Brett and loaded with those awesome castings we all love, resulting in another masterpiece. One of the first kits I bought from Brett.
We’re all going to enjoy this one…
Karl.A
ironmountainlumber
August 2013
Excellent start . Wall looks really great. No bandaids used while peeling back those boards? I used a few on the fuel depot several months ago. Looking foward to an excellent build again and following along.
Jim
djdutch
August 2013
I see forward follow to this build, the last one was terrific so I know this gonna be good
DJ
KKarns
August 2013
I’m really enjoying this build already. Have all the clapboard done and the freight and access doors done. Will be posting a few pics soon.
Karl, I have perused your finished build on Duluth, as I found it on a pointed web search. Once again, a build to motivate and aspire to! I like this one as it has a great “feel” to it and a bit more sophisticated feeling with the clapboard, doors, windows, concrete…but just asking to be weathered to that been around awhile look. Am going for a dirty, dusty look from being beside the tracks for years…we’ll see…
Jim, Haven’t lacerated myself yet but it was in the back of my mind as I fiddled with that micro clapboard! Fuel depot has a bit more surface area I suspect so my time is coming.
Thanks DJ, glad you’ll be checking in time-to-time as I value your input.
KKarns
August 2013
Here are a few pictures of progress on walls and doors…
Walls “dirtied” up a bit
Freight and access doors. These are not stuck together yet as I’m not sure I’m done with them.
KKarns
August 2013
I wasn’t happy with the weathering on the doors yet so I attached the door trim and then ran a very small amount of dilute white glue along the bottom edge of the freight doors then dabbed on real dirt with my chalk brush to simulate the dirt and grung that would accumulate and get trapped along this bottom edge…??
KKarns
August 2013
Oh, and filled in the missing row of nail holes on one of the walls…
djdutch
August 2013
I like the detail of the dirt on the bottom edge at the doors I keep that in mind.
Nice coloring to, give a nice warm feeling, just like a real old building its needs to have some charm 
DJ
Karl.A
August 2013
Good looking start Ken, walls and doors look good. It’s the extra little touches that make a big difference. Nice work.
Karl.A
KKarns
August 2013
DJ, The color of the walls looks a bit anemic in the pictures but they are a bit more rich looking in actuality. I thought the dirt made a big difference if you scrutinize each door.
Karl, Thanks and these laser cut doors and trim are a bit more challenging to weather. I really enjoy doing what I can to get there with them. As I remember, you took me to task on the doors for my Tool Shed build and so glad you were on top of that! Since then I have paid particular attention to that process and like doing it.
davej
August 2013
Ken the dirt on the bottom of the walls is a nice touch, I’ll have to remember that one for my next build.
Are you going to leave the building as weathered raw wood? or will you apply some paint colour to the walls?.
cheers
Dave
KKarns
August 2013
Hey Dave, Well…actually the walls were lightly colored with a Floquil Depot Buff diluted wash and then before completely dry very lightly brushed with the brass brush giving it the aged dirty look. The pictures make it look like the walls need a blood transfusion! They look a bit more “colorful” in actuality and I’ll try and get some outdoor pictures that give a more accurate reflection of the true tone which is a muted yellowish color (ie Depot Buff) I did however, want to stray from the classic bold yellowish color that I have seen on this build and get a more toned down dirty trackside look. That gives the dirt on the bottom of my doors some plausibility! I also used Polly Milw. Road Maroon rather then the Box Car Red, which the manual calls for, on the door trim which leans towards the brownish red side. Again, pictures make the trim look brown. Ken
KKarns
August 2013
The finished doors and windows are installed. A bit better on capturing the actual coloring of the walls. Still a bit washed out compared to what’s in front of me. I am going for a mild worn look but more on the dirty and unkept side like a trackside business would be. I weathered the doors and windows mostly with fine powdered real dirt and some chalk. I detailed one rear window that has a deck below it so the “stuff” on the sill would be at a correct height for LPs to place it there while working right outside the window. Will see that later…next is the assembly of the four walls and the roof work.
Ken
Karl.A
August 2013 edited August 2013
Really looking great Ken, everything is nice and subtle as it should be, but far from dull and boring. Very nice.
Karl.A
KKarns
August 2013
Thanks Karl, really enjoying the work on the windows and doors. Good preparation for Essentials!
ironmountainlumber
September 2013
Hey Ken,
The walls look fantastic. The nail holes are really well done ( I am always in a quandary about adding them). It looks like a little more dust has settled on the bottom of the windows. I don’t know if it the picture or not but I like the effect. Nice effect with bottle and rag in the window! With all the cool things you have done so far, you wont have any problems with Essentials. You don’t need any warmup for Essentials that is for sure!
Jim Richards
KKarns
September 2013
Hi Jim, with nail holes for HO scale, less is more for sure. The nail holes need to be there on this type of siding in particular but they need to be small and subtile and that’s what I was shooting for. Dirty doors and windows from being track side and I side used real dirt sifted really fine. I cut the bottle off another casting to put on the window sill! Just glued up the 4 walls and will post that result soon…thanks for following along…Ken
admin
September 2013
walls look great, wonderful job do far…
KKarns
September 2013
Thanks Brett, I had a blast with the siding, windows and doors. Such a treat to work with such high quality materials. On to the next order of business…Ken
Joel
September 2013
Great start. Particularly love the colouring and dirt at the bottom of the doors.
KKarns
September 2013
Hey Joel, Thanks for the note. First time trying real dirt for weathering and like the look so far. I have posted a few pics of the completed and assembled walls. Although indoor shots, the color is a bit more in line with actual. Working on the roofing and cupolas.
KKarns
September 2013
Just noticed how the flash made the corner trim where it meets the siding look white like bare wood…yuck…I added a shot without flash to show this is an artifact of the flash not that I didn’t color the corner trim all the way around…like you were all thinkin! Ken
Karl.A
September 2013
Hmm…
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2013
Karl, OK…you’re not goin to leave me with just a Hmm are ya? Really…it was just the flash I swear…
Ken
KKarns
September 2013
Here are a couple of pictures outside with the roof on and shingles up to the point where the cupolas are put on. Shingles are detailed and weathered later…Ken
ironmountainlumber
September 2013 edited September 2013
Very nice outdoor shots. I like the color and overall run down look alot. Very nice Ken and I if I must say a perfectly manicured yard in the background for such a nicely rundown building (LOL). Great job!
Jim Richards
KKarns
September 2013
Hi Jim, Yea, workers have their priorities messed up. Pictures give the feel of a bit more run down building than it looks in front of me. Next series of pics will be with the roof and cupolas done which add a good bit of character to the build. Thanks for the note and always good to “talk” with you…Ken
Karl.A
September 2013
Sorry Ken, I forgot I had posted that, I was just going to mess with you a little, but I got distracted for a few days.
The walls look terrific and the doors and windows are superb. I really like the collected dust effect you achieved on the glass, very nice.
The soda bottle holding the window open is a nice touch also…
Look forward to seeing the roof and cupolas.
Karl.A
Wes
September 2013
Ken that looks great. I love the colouring youve achieved on the siding.
The weathering on the wood (whatever the structure is sitting on) is also very cool.
KKarns
September 2013
Hey Karl, Thanks for the note and ya know…I’m sensitive to your subtlety and a “hmm” was an ominous sign…I just knew you were going to take me to task on the white corner trim! Havin a blast with this build as usual…
Technical question…wouldn’t you assume that with a double hung window, the lower sash, when opened, would stay open by itself through the inherent construction of the double hung window? I’m reluctant to prop open every open window I build as it may get to be too much of a good thing. I’m thinkin more like…one here and there on ones that won’t stay open due to age.
Hi Wes, nice hearing from you. Thanks for the thumbs up on the build…so far…
The nicely aged wood Duluth is sitting on is the top rail of my deck…maybe I’ll cut some off and buck it up for some strip wood for my next build?
Karl.A
September 2013
Technical answer.. yep they would stay open themselves if in good condition. It depends on how dilapidated or maintained the structure I am building that influences my choice on whether or not to use a prop. If I do I only do one maybe two per structure, I’ve used the standard stick, a wrench, a soda bottle for variety, as you say any effect is diluted if it is over done or over used.
That’s my opinion anyway.
Karl.A
Bill
September 2013
Very nice job, Ken! The colors are subdued and faded just like one would expect for a building with some years on it. All the joints look tight and the texture on the clapboard siding is spot on.
A very minor suggestion: My eye was drawn directly to the propped up window in the last outdoor picture above. There’s a pop bottle, a piece of wood and an old rag. I’d ditch one or two of those elements. When I evaluate pictures of models, I immediately look for give aways–things that indicate what I’m seeing is not a real structure. In this case, I think it may be because the wood scrap is too big. At first glance next to the bottle, it looked to me like an out of scale ball peen hammer. I feel like a d-bag for even pointing it out since it’s such a small thing!
Bill
KKarns
September 2013
Karl, thanks for your take on the window issue and I agree and that’s just how Duluth is progressing with just a couple of windows with prop opens the rest are just open to varying degrees.
Yo Bill! nice to hear from you and can’t wait to attend your tutelage session at the Expo.
…very much appreciate your take on the window “clutter”, it’s the small things that make the difference as you have all demonstrated and I aspire to! Let me explain my thinking, or lack there of, of why I added that stuff…then if it seems excessive to you I may po-po the idea…
The window in question will overlook the back deck on Duluth which will bring the window to within say waist high or a bit higher on HO scale LPs. My idea, to add a little zip to the back, was to have a workbench casting right below the window with a couple of same size strip wood boards and clutter to make it appear that some work was going on and the rag, bottle, and board were set there temporary. Maybe have a saw horse set-up and a repair being made to the deck…or something on those lines. Would it help if I told you it’s a bottle of backwoods brew?
Bill
September 2013
Backwoods brew??? Now we’re talking!
Like I said, it’s no biggie–just jumped out. With the additional castings and mini scene you have planned, it sounds like it’ll fit in we’ll.
I’m looking forward to the Expo. Just booked my room and flight today, as a matter of fact. Less than two months!
Bill
KKarns
September 2013
Bill, lets do this…I’ll finish the scene and just bring the thing to the Expo as it sits at that time. We can scrutinize it over a cold one!
Ken
Bill
September 2013
Deal..we’ll charge the drinks to Brett or Karl’s room
KKarns
September 2013
Bill, Not only do I like the way you model…I like the way you think!
KKarns
September 2013
Here’s an update on Duluth. Rafter tails installed and Cupolas are windowed and roofed but the windows still need the final weathering and are just sitting in place not glued yet. I spent a good deal of time mulling over the chimney detailing on this awesome metal casting of Brett’s. Wanted a weathered sooty look and this is what I came up with. Next up is finishing the roof with flashing, the remainder of the roof stacks (2) and get the awnings on while I can still turn the building on its side…Ken
Bill
September 2013
Right on the money with the chimney! Just like in real life bricks aren’t just one color. As they’re baked, some get darker than others. Well done!
Now…how’d you do it?
KKarns
September 2013
Hey Bill, Thanks for thumbs up on the chimney, I was pleased with how it turned out. I primed the casting with Floquil Gime and then painted most of the bricks with Polly Box Car Red, a few with Polly special Oxide Red and Roof brown. Cap was then painted with Polly concrete and the stack with Polly Grimy Black. When all this was cured I lightly dry brushed the bricks with Polly Oily Black. Then with Rembrandts I chalked the stack with a damp brush (Alcohol) and Burnt Sienna 411.3 (rust) then a damp brush on the cap with 700.5 (black) but very lightly. I finished off the brick with a DRY heavy application of Burnt Umber 409.3 and then blew off the excess. I finished it off with a little Oily Black around the rim of the stack and in the hole of the stack. Brett’s a genius on these castings…just look at the detail..some bricks chipped, the cap not perfect just like it would be…etc..
Have you tried Wiseman models for any of your vehicles for Quincy? I did a stake bed truck of his and it turned out fairly nice but nothing like brett’s castings as you mentioned!
Jerry
September 2013
Nice color on the siding. A good job on those doors and windows.
Jerry
KKarns
September 2013
Hey Jerry, Thanks for the note and I have really been enjoying the windows and doors. Brett makes it such a pleasure to mess with them and get them detailed up. Hard not to do too much to them! I just finished the metal awnings and will be posting an update soon. Ken
admin
September 2013
Looking great Ken, love the chimney…
Karl.A
September 2013
The walls in your last pictures look great Ken, coupled with the doors and windows is a perfect match well done.
The chimney just looks fantastic, beautiful job on that, very realistic colouring.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2013
Brett, Karl: Thanks for the response, you guys are the best… being as busy as you are to still carve out some time to keep us pumped up! Karl, your work on the Saw Mill machinery is outstanding by any standard. Although it’s O Scale…I still can’t wait to see it completed. I’m done with Duluth proper and am working on the peripherals. Will post an update on this this weekend.
Karl.A
September 2013
Thanks for the update Ken, looking forward to the pics.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2013
Duluth Update. here are a bunch of pictures of the finished Duluth main building, less covered loading dock, rear deck, and open storage shed. I deviated somewhat on a few details outlined under the appropriate picture. Having a blast with this great kit of Bretts. If you didn’t get one back in the day or during his re-offer of late you’re missing out on a really cool build. Ken
The back of Duluth, a deck is scheduled here.
I built the green fabric awning off the build and then attached once completed. With the three metal awnings, I wanted a ever so slight sheen of metal poking through the weathering so I applied the color and chalks then rubbed the awning along my hardwood board that I made up to weather the window frames in the one direction giving some subtile streaks and the slight sheen. I then put a couple of dents in the awning edges here and there and added some rust along the seams.
Front view of Duluth. Concrete loading dock scheduled here down the entire front.
Wall vent along side with open storage shed scheduled below.
The flashing was also modified a bit. I didn’t like how the flashing was butted up against the bottom of the window frames on others I have seen. I wanted Brett’s great window frames to stand out so I used my blade and carefully cut away the bottom board above the roof and butted the falshing up to it instead. I also gave the flashing some tool marks, a little rust, and the seams gone over with Polly Oily Black.
KKarns
September 2013
One last pic I didn’t get in that illustrates the tool marks better. Ken
ironmountainlumber
September 2013
Hi Ken,
Fantastic job! I really like the details. The awnings are very nicely done. The flashing looks old and weathered around the cupolas as well as the very nice effect around the vent on the side of building and the faint weathering below the windows. Again a superb job!
By the way, the photography is very clear and crisp and really highlights the overall weathering and details you have done. This the fourth build and you are getting closer to being done with Duluth and what will be next on the agenda for the Railroad Barron? Lots of fantastic kits by Mr. Gallant. Perhaps another Twin Mills, a Seaport, or the Logging Camp?
Jim Richards
Bill
October 2013
Very good, Ken! I agree with your decision on the flashing and I really like the boarded up window in the top cupola–perfect little detail. Looking forward to your work on the concrete loading dock.
Nice photography, too by the way.
KKarns
October 2013
Hello Jim,
Always nice to get your perusal and appreciate the positive comments. Appreciate the thumbs up on the pictures as it does take some messin around to get them decent. The roof color in the pictures is way off on most shots as it is much darker and weathered quite bit more than indicated. Some pics look like the shingles are right out of the box! The first couple of pics come closer. I have a nice stable of un-built SWSM kits I’ve been pulling together so not sure yet which will be next…hmm…geesh…have to finish this one first. Nice having you along as always my good man…Ken
Hey Bill,
Yea, I was happy how the flashing panned out. Thanks for the notice on the boarded up window and the non-mention that the “stuff” is still in the window! Any advise on the concrete dock? I have been tossing around how I’ll finish it off as it needs to be right as it’s such a focal point of the build. Also, would you fill in the small gaps at the end of the ridge caps? Don’t notice them much in scale but the pictures suggest maybe I should. Can I reserve a front seat at your “modeling addiction” support group session at Expo??
Bill
October 2013
Hmmm…the ridgecaps. Before we fix it, let’s look at why the gap is there in to begin with. I think you probably sliced the roof card too deeply which, when folded, opens up the cardboard more than it should. Next time, try to cut a slit about a third of the way in–just to score it. Then fold it into shape. On this roof, if it you think it’s really noticeable, you may want to take some square stock (whatever is close to the same thickness as the card stock–a scale 4x4 perhaps?) and carve, sand or shape it so it fits into the little gap and is flush on the end with the cardstock. A small piece is all you’d need but make sure it gets colored the same as the cardstock (probably Roof Brown). If needed, dust the edges with some chalk powder into any remaining seams or spaces…do that as a final weathering step.
For the concrete I’d stay away from any color that’s a light gray. To me, that says that it’s new. Concrete with some years on it tends to yellow as it ages. Go with whatever the manual suggests and then adjust the final color with chalks…some gold ochre, maybe a rust streak, but nothing bright yellow. I’m just guessing right now, but that’s the plan I have in my head for a concrete retaining wall I have to do here shortly. But, I’m sure you’ll get it right…you’ve got an eye for color.
Yes, there are still front row seats available at the Expo (in fact all seats are available). But a heads up: There will be NO refunds!
KKarns
October 2013
Bill,
Ahh…the fine print and disclaimers! We’ll probably have to sign waivers of liability..
The roof card was pre-sliced from the kit and I’m sure Brett assumes if you can build the kit you can certainly cover up a dinky hole if so inclined. I like you idea of a small “plug” fashioned to fill the gap. It certainly would have been easier if I thought to fill it before putting on the shingle stock. The small gap from the ridge to the filled area of the card stock would look and would have acted as a vent of sorts.
You’re right…Brett’s instructions echo your sentiments exactly and was my plan of action. Since you mentioned it specifically I thought you would have some good additional comments which you did. So…who goes first and messes up so the other wont?
Bill
October 2013
Heck…I’ll give it a shot. The paint should be cured and I’ll try it tomorrow.
Bill
October 2013
Here’s one wall:
KKarns
October 2013
By golly I think you’ve got it!..Ken
Jerry
October 2013
Ken the building really turned out nice. Some great little details.
Jerry
KKarns
October 2013
Thanks Jerry and from the posts I gather you’ll be at the Expo? Look forward to meeting you. Ken
James
October 2013
great build. Thanks for posting. Love the wall vent.
KKarns
October 2013
Thanks James! Just finished the covered loading dock base and moving on to the roof and supports, then the open shed, then the deck on the back, then the concrete loading dock in front…lots of cool stuff for a relatively small foot print of a build. Brett’s a wizard when it comes to that kind of thing and we all love it! Ken
Mike Engler
October 2013
Ken- good work and good photography. I probably missed this, but are you going to weather the entire roof as you did the flashing? I built this kit several years ago and it is one of just a few that Brett has released using this type of shake shingle. The Woodcutter’s Shack and the station from Essentials are the only two that come to mind.
My point is that that I see you have some very subtle chalk streaking on the roof, but since the shakes have very little grain, it may help to vary the color on some of them. Probably would have been easier to do this before the shingle strips were applied, but you could try some and see how they looked.
Your beautiful outdoor photography accentuates the sameness of the shingles, and they are magnified 2 or 3X. Just some thoughts, and again you are displaying some real skill.
KKarns
October 2013
Hi Mike, Thanks for the spot of encouragement, I appreciate your thoughts and have admired your work both past and current. The roof was weathered with several shades of raw umber chalks and indoors appears mottled and to me weathered about where I wanted it…take it outside and it starts to look anemic! So your right on that it appears some additional weathering is indicated based on the pictures you are seeing. If you’re game, I’m bringing Duluth to the Expo likely unfinished and I could show it to you and see what your thoughts are about the roof under lights that my railroad will be under (ie fluorescent).
Mike Engler
October 2013
Looking forward to seeing your great model. You are exactly right that the natural light dramatically changes how your weathering will look. The thing to do is what you have done- do your weathering in light similar to what it will be like on your layout, or wherever it will be displayed. However, this can be a problem if you take a model to a contest, as often the contest rooms are poorly lit.
Nothing like the sunlight to help you check your build for glue spots, unstained board ends, crooked rafters, or any number of flaws you can then fix. The sun is a good tool.
KKarns
October 2013
Duluth update: All sub-assemblies are completed but not attached to the main building or to a diorama base yet, that’s next and the roof treatments are not done yet which include the chimney, stack vent, and cyclone vent. Bill…here is my go at the concrete loading dock…
I primed the castings with Floquil Concrete from a foo-foo can, 48 hours later blotted on a stain from a combination of Floquil Mud and Antique White as per Brett’s instruct, and immediately blotted off the access with a paper towel. Before completely dry, I began chalk applications; first with grey (704.5) then with some raw umber (409.3) particularly in the cracks, holes, etc..then some raw sienna (234.3) and yellow ochre (227.3). I followed the cracks across the top of the main slab and then streaked on some 409.3 to give the appearance of water and mineralization stains. Also, used real dirt at the back of the stair treads and then lightly wiped the tread area with DioSol to give a worn appearance.
Small open shed that lives on the north end of Duluth.
Deck structure (without railings and steps) that goes on the back of Duluth.
Open loading dock roof and platform. I added the small metal post support pieces at the bottom of each post. These are just made from heavy paper bent up and a little Grimy Black and a bit of rusting. They actually allow the roof structure to stand on its own..no glue yet…
Took this idea from Bill…the loading dock platform roof is laser cut cardboard. I wanted an area that had a section of the tar paper torn off exposing the roof boards to give the illusion that the entire roof is boarded over. I sliced a thin section of the cardboard roof out with a blade and spliced in the strip wood…thanks for the lead on that Bill I like the look.
The rest of the pictures are the mock up of the sub-assemblies just positioned temporarily in place. Next is the diorama base and finish things up. I’ll bring this to the Expo as is and we can look at the roof a bit more Mike…
Karl.A
October 2013
Concrete loading dock looks terrific Ken, the beat up and weathered wood also looks great.
One more item to add to your modeling arsenal (if you don’t already have them) would be a cheap set of multi coloured felt pens. I use these for colouring the edges of signs after cutting them out with the appropriate colour and also the greys for colouring the edges of tar paper prior to assembly, when I remember. the ink wicks up and blends in nicely.
I look forward to seeing you and your models at the expo.
Karl.A
KKarns
October 2013
Karl, Thanks for the thumbs up on the concrete and the poo-poo on the white torn edges of the tar paper. Prototypical maybe, as I have seen the edges of old tar paper where the white under layer shows through, but your right as it appears distracting and was too much for the small roofs. Couple of quick pics on the fix…better??
KKarns
October 2013
Also Karl, the final weathering and ridge cap needs done yet particularly on the covered loading dock roof. This will also blend the slight color on the edges. Thanks for the insight…you da man!..Ken
Bill
October 2013
Excellent work Ken. The concrete loading dock turned out great and the use of real dirt is a nice addition of color and texture. I think the small touch ups to the tar paper sealed the deal and are a marked improvement.
Looking forward to seeing it completed.
Bill
Karl.A
October 2013
100% better Ken.
Also Karl, the final weathering and ridge cap needs done yet particularly on the covered loading dock roof. This will also blend the slight color on the edges.
That’s why I didn’t mention it… 
Karl.A
KKarns
October 2013
Hey Bill, yup..Karl was about as subtile as a heart attack!..just messin with ya Karl. He knows how to get someones attention, and I’m glad he reeled me in on that one. I appreciate you taking the lead on the concrete duel…you nailed it and helped me decide what direction to take on mine.
Karl, you crack me up! The mentioning of the colored felt pens was a perfect subtile suggest. Love this stuff…Ken
ironmountainlumber
October 2013
Hi Ken,
The pictures are fantastic, I really like all the details and the knot holes. I have used the pens on edges as well and it is a really great idea from Karl. Another thing you could try is using scrapbooking black paper at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. The reason I also have done this is then I can have more paper to choose from after weathering it to get the look I am after (really I screwed up the paper in the kit and had to find some more). There are no white edges after tearing or cutting either.
Jim
KKarns
October 2013
Hello Jim, Thanks for the note and your idea of the craft paper is a good one. I do prefer to start with a lighter colored paper and then spray on the black so I can vary the amount of light color that shows through. Just need to pay attention to the amount of white edge that shows as a result. Have the chimney mounted on the roof, the Duluth sign completed and the dio base cut and painted and ready to start gluing it all down…updates to follow. Ken
KKarns
November 2013
Duluth update…off for the EXPO in the morning so took a few pictures of Duluth’s main building complex. The build is now safely attached to the dio base awaiting the details and landscaping.
Front view of Duluth. Sign was sanded on the back side to almost see through then attached to the strip wood base and weathered with some chalks.
Covered loading dock on the south side of Duluth. Note torn tar paper with strip wood sheathing underneath. Strip wood was added just to this small spot as the roof is chip board.
Backside of Duluth. Brett’s design of the rear of Duluth is awesome with so much character and lots of details.
Chimney flashing in place. This is just copy paper cut and painted with Floquil Grimy Black and then rusted up a bit with chalk. Step flashing on the sides is not well seen due to shadows. Will have more pics as the build progresses.
Open shed on the north side. What a cool feature.
The plans call for a dirt floor in the open storage shed. I decided to add a partial wood floor. More to follow…off to EXPO!
ironmountainlumber
November 2013
Fantastic job Ken! Looking foward to all the details on future posts. Have a safe trip. Wish I could be there !
Jim
Wes
November 2013
Hi ken
Shes a real beauty. Will look even better with all the castings.
KKarns
November 2013
Hey Jim, Wes..Thanks for the thoughts…detailing castings and slinging dirt around is next! Thanks for following along. Ken
Karl.A
November 2013
Cant wait to see the next step Ken, Great to meet you and talk with you at the show.
Karl.A
KKarns
November 2013
Karl, Glad you had a safe trip home. It was really nice meeting you, Brett, and the other SWSM faithful in attendance at the show. Congratulations on the first place finish…well deserved! Ken
ETinBH
November 2013
delightful build
KKarns
November 2013
Thanks Elliot, everyone missed having you there at the show. Karl mentioned my roof on Duluth sucks! (I took it to the show unfinished) he’s right of course, and I’m working on that now…Ken
James
November 2013
Wonderful! Glad to see someone took the time to do the nail holes properly (I’ve been a bit negligent in that regard).
KKarns
November 2013
Thanks James, the nail holes are a subtile detail where less is more, but when you combine them with other small details they add up to improve the overall look and “feel” of the build. How’s the WCS coming along?..Ken
Karl.A
November 2013
Thanks Ken, congratulations to you also on your award, great job.
Karl.A
davej
November 2013
Looking good Ken.
It looks like an O scale model, great detailing.
cheers
Dave
KKarns
November 2013
Thanks Dave, I’m getting my list of compliments ready for the Machine Shop build you did…really, really nice. Will post soon to your thread. Ken
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Any updates yet Ken … ? Looking forward to your great work on the castings also.
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
Not much wind left in the sails since Expo and haven’t done much of anything with Duluth. Tried rattling Brett’s cage a bit…
Hope you’re doing well…-Ken
Karl.A
December 2013
Doing fine Ken, plodding along.
I’ll patiently wait until the mood strikes you and the modeling vigor returns…
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
More thinkin than modelin of late…I enjoyed the Duluth Plumbing build so much that I decided to expand the open storage shed on the north side to include an additional shed, fence and plumbing supply storage area, mostly pipe fitting stuff. I’m scratch building the shed and fence…woopdy doo! right, compared to Karl’s ongoing O Scale masterpiece. If you haven’t seen it, it’s a must follow thread. Will get some pics up when there is something to see…Ken
Karl.A
December 2013
Thanks for the kind words Ken, I look forward to the pics,
as do the silent masses…
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
As I mentioned last post, I am adding an old detached shed and fence to create a old run down storage area at the north end of Duluth. This area will have lots of old plumbing and pipe supplies with an access road in the back. I opted for an open yet covered shed plan inspired by Brett’s great open shed design in Donkey Repair Yard. Next post will be with the fence and tentative placement on the Duluth diorama to see if it fits the overall feel…Ken
KKarns
December 2013
Fooling around with placement…Ken
srankin6
December 2013
Ken,
shed looks great,can’t wait to see it all come together.
Scott
ironmountainlumber
December 2013
Hi Ken,
Congratulations on winning at the Expo for your beautiful water tank diorama ! The shed looks great and definitely adds to the overall feel of the Duluth building. How about some trucks with plumbing supplies too ? This shed is more than a woopdy doo no bah humbug from you! Your modeling is outstanding as always and I always enjoy watching you put one of these kits together and adding your touch. Keep up the great work.
Jim
KKarns
December 2013
Hi Scott, appreciate the feed-back. This is one of those ideas that could be good or way off base so its nice to get some opinions…thanks for yours.
Hey Jim, appreciate the congrats and to come out of that room at Expo with anything, considering all the fantastic builds and those behind them, is a real honor for sure!
Thanks for your comments on the shed addition. Like I mentioned to Scott, it can be good or bad depending. I think once I get an old wood fence in there and all the old piping and clutter it will come together. I added two more pictures of the roof as the others really didn’t look so good.
Karl.A
December 2013
Great looking work on the shed Ken. The weathering on the wood is superb and the corrugated looks nice and naturally aged… but not too much.
I look forward to seeing you blend this into the diorama scene.
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
Karl, your opinion…do you think it will work? Felt like doing something special with Duluth..
srankin6
December 2013
Ken
I agree with Karl roof is aged perfectly…fence and details should work looking forward to seeing it come together.
Scott
admin
December 2013
Looks great and yes, I think it will work. One thing I would do is to photograph the shed in several positions/locations and see what I like best. Easier to evaluate a photo.
KKarns
December 2013
Brett, thanks much for taking a peek at my idea to add to the Duluth diorama. A great little kit like this deserves some special attention! I will take some pictures as you suggest with the shed in a few locals and add the fence (under construction) in as well. I would be tickled to get your take on the best location…Ken
Hey Scott, appreciate your thoughts on the roof. First go at etching and followed Brett’s instructions as I did not want an overly “eaten away” look but the one piece that’s really beaten up I think looks reasonable. It’s actually bent down and I have put some stains from water damage along the back wall since these pictures were taken. Also dusted up the siding a bit with grey chalk and it blended things a bit better. Pictures to follow…
Karl.A
December 2013
I agree Ken that the small shed could make a great addition to the diorama… in the right place.
I’m not too keen on where it is right now. As Brett says mave it around a few places and take pics from different angles.
Great work so far.
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
Karl, I’m liking it less there the more I look at it as well. It may actually detract from the really nice attached open shed of the Duluth design by being so close? hmm, this will be fun moving it around with pictures…I also think we (me) want to keep adding things to the diorama cause we don’t want to be finished. There is a special attachment to each SWSM build that you put so much energy in on that it takes on a life of its own…and…OK it’s past my bedtime I’m getting mushy…Ken
Karl.A
December 2013
Exactly my thoughts Ken.
Joel
December 2013
First of all Ken it’s an amazing build and I agree that it would be nice to expand it a bit and make it the center of a larger diorama. I also have to say that after seeing your work in person and listening to you blather on here about the shed I believe you have a great eye and should trust your instinct. Not saying the crowd here can’t help, it’s a great supportive and often instructive community.
If I were to put my two cents in (often no sense) When I’m at this stage I take all the modeling components (or mock ups), a piece of track and a couple of trees and place them on my ping pong table. I use some masking tape to delineate the edges of the diorama ( so I can quickly change the size of the base without buying a new piece of plywood) and some styrofoam sheets for risers. Then I move things around and lift different components and sketch in roads. I take pictures and compare different shots. I almost always put my major building at a 30 degree angle (not sure why but it’s an artist thing). For my fishing cove/shipyard I kept it free like that for over 3 months until I finally decided on a plan. When you spend so much time building a fantastic kit the extra few days planning the composition of the final scene are well worth it. You will be surprised how many times you come back the next day and think yesterday’s plan was crazy. In the end though you find the best solution.
KKarns
December 2013
Nice hearing from you Joel. Thanks a bunch for your supportive comments. Your methodology for diorama placement is great and I should have done something similar. Duluth was placed (perm. attached!) on the diorama base before I had the idea of putting in a shed, fence, and storage yard area. Not the best way to do things…trying to fit stuff to a set diorama size rather than make the diorama size fit my stuff..or something like that. I will take some pics of the shed and fence in different locals and see what seems to fit well. Congrats again on a fantastic build yourself! I was tickled to be able to see that beast in person..Ken
djdutch
December 2013
Hey Ken,
You also did a pretty good job here I already loved the water tank and storage shed project.
Bud thisone is also a fine model and I love your how to’s
For the vallejo polyscale list: just compare it before you buy.
Kind regards DJ
KKarns
December 2013
DJ, Thanks much, I appreciate your note. Right, I wouldn’t take the color matches for granted and will compare as needed. It will be interesting to see how close the colors are. Have a great holiday…Ken
KKarns
December 2013
A few pictures of the proposed final resting place for my addition to Duluth (open storage shed and fence. Brett designed (my interpretation) the south end of Duluth at the open loading dock to be a bit of a junk accumulation and neglected area. I expanded on that concept to include the detached storage shed and a added the fence to tie the area together and give a good backdrop for some nice scattered junk and clutter. My previous placement detracted too much from the brilliant north end of Duluth with the open attached shed and back deck. My favorite view of Duluth is from the back. Another example of Brett’s awesome design concept and tradition in all his kits that the back of the builds look as good and detailed as the front! Dirt slinging is just around the corner…Ken
KKarns
December 2013
Weathering ties for the hand laid code 55 track that will run down the front of Duluth. Also starting the prepping and detailing of the castings. Picture shows most of the resin castings either primed with Floquil Earth (mostly wood castings) or Grimy Black for castings that will be metal (cans, barrels, etc.) Brett’s castings are the best around and need very little prep and as can be seen in the pictures, the detail is incredible! I love working on these castings. Pictures of all the completed castings next time…Ken
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
I’m looking forward to your masterly painting on the castings Ken, you always do an exceptional job with them. As you say there is a really nice selection in the Duluth kit. (Aren’t they all though?)
I’m still pondering the ‘new’ shed, maybe because it is placed the same way as the main building. try turning it 90degrees see how it looks. I’m giving it plenty of thought. Albeit quietly.
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
Hey Karl, hope you’re having a nice holiday. Casting painting going well in between moving the damn shed all over the place. Think I at least got the thing at the right end of Duluth. Just messin…actually loads of fun deciding where to place things. Here are a couple of pics of 90 degrees north and south.
KKarns
December 2013
Better concept pic of the shed facing north. This seems to work rather nicely…is this in the ball park of what you were thinkin Karl?
djdutch
December 2013
This looks very nice Ken, I certainly love the feel of it.
What kind of tan color did you used for the base ?
KKarns
December 2013
DJ, Thanks for your take on things so far. The base was painted with Valspar Ultra, Flat Latex Exterior Paint. It was a custom color match to the dirt I’m using. Picked it up at the local Lowes.
Attached is a teaser photo of a casting for Duluth to check my images, lighting (indoor), etc. more to follow…Ken
djdutch
December 2013
Nice casting ken, the picture is not shinny It just a dirty dusty bench.
What kind of paints do you use ? I only use Vallejo paints and rembrandt chalks + A&I wash and some alcohol to fix the chalks.
DJ
srankin6
December 2013
great job ken! Just throwing in my two cents but have you tried placing the shed at a 45degree angle to the building? Just a thought. Keep up the great work
scott
KKarns
December 2013
DJ, I use a combination of Floquil and Polly Scale until my supply runs out. I use a few Vallejo paints and will be switching over to them more exclusively. I use the Rembrandt chalks on almost everything! I’d use it on my food if it didn’t taste so crappy! They are the key that’s for sure. I use the AI as well but only to highlight stuff. You don’t need to “fix” the chalks unless you plan on handling the piece a bunch. I find that if you use too much AI at the end things get a bit shiny and I hate shiny (as you mentioned above).
Yo Scott, nice to hear from you. I’m puttering around moving that shed around so much I feel like slamming some glue on it and sticking it down so it won’t move anymore! I haven’t tried the 45 angle but will…thanks.
Here a few scattered casting pics as I plop them in my finished tray…more later…Ken
KKarns
December 2013
Karl.A
December 2013
Spectacular Ken !!!
Just beautiful painting on those details, such clean and crisp definition… even on my 55" screen I cant see anywhere where you painted “outside the lines”.
The bands on the barrels are superb as are the multi coloured oil drums, small things like that make a big impact in the overall picture.
I especially like the pliers on the work bench with the handles painted to look like the rubber grips. Nice detail.
Karl.A
KKarns
December 2013
Hey Karl, thanks for the comments on the castings, I really took some time on these guys and loved every minute of it! Brett’s castings are just fantastic. Brett made a comment during one of his awesome seminars at EXPO this year that has stuck with me and is now my new philosophy on detailing castings…he mentioned that one of the late greats, maybe Brian or Kevin or both, treated each casting as a model in itself. How cool is that! Brett took an enormous amount of time developing these guys and we owe it to him to return the favor with as good a finished product as we can muster.
Also, having trouble deciding on where to put the shed…may just bag it and save it for another diorama…too much in a small space maybe. Ken
davej
December 2013
Hi Ken
great work on those castings. I like the idea of treating each one as a model. I tend to start a bit like that and then seem to rush to get them finished.
With the shed. I would suggest deciding on what the occupants of the business would use it for. Once they have a use for it where would they put it so that it was convenient/accessible, or out of the way hiding non essentials.
cheers
Dave
KKarns
January 2014
Hi Dave,
Thanks… regarding the castings, I spend much, probably too much, time muling them over, thinkin about each one and how I am going to treat them, making notes on little mini scenes for the diorama, looking at Brett’s pictures in the manual and the web-site if applicable, etc…then after they are done I take some time, probably too much time, and plan their location on the diorama, look at Brett’s pictures again, photograph them, look at the photos, change/re-work some, etc…I have a problem don’t I?? Cheers, Ken
KKarns
January 2014
Few more finished…
KKarns
January 2014
Two additional castings for Duluth almost finished. The loading dock scales and an air compressor for the open shed. Might try and put some fine thread over the pulleys for the belt! The scale graduations…don’t get too close or they start to look bad…they look great at scale on Duluth’s loading dock…more later…Ken
admin
January 2014
Castings look great Ken. When as HO Scale casting looks this good up close, you know it’s gonna look fantastic integrated into the scene…
Karl.A
January 2014
Looking great Ken, the quality of your work is superb. Try a sliver of copier paper for the compressor belt maybe?, the thin cheap stuff. colour it with a felt pen.
Great clear photo with nice colour against that white.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2014
Hey Karl, Hmm..nice idea! The thread didn’t look right…round for one and not small enough. The paper will be just the ticket..thanks for the suggest.
I have attached a picture of the pointed stack mounted on the front roof of Duluth. I pounded the tips of the brass wire flat and then bent them at an angle. bent the other ends at an angle but kept them round to go in the holes on the attachment ring on the stack. Blackened and weathered the wire and used a tiny bit of epoxy the fasten them down. I then used three 2" bolt and nut castings and cut the washers off as they looked too big. I fastened them down to each flattened end of the wire on the roof. Weathered them and although may not be exactly prototypical I think looks OK. Next is the arrangement and placement of the castings attached to Duluth, lay some ties and track, then sling some dirt…more later, Ken
KKarns
January 2014
Brett, Aint that the truth regarding the castings…like most of us I have started using the pictures to review my casting detail. If it holds up to close up pictures it will look great all tied to the scene. Just spent 20 minutes detailing two broom castings! I have a problem and need a casting intervention…Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Hi Ken,
Castings are superb. Well done. I really like the bolt detail on the picture above. Very clever.
Jim
Karl.A
January 2014
… Just spent 20 minutes detailing two broom castings! …Ken
Oh lawdy !!! Kevins modeling re-incarnate.
(I do hope you spent the time putting individual bristles on them like he did)
Damn he was good.
Stack and support wires look great. the nbw’s are a great detail that will get noticed but not seen if you know what I mean.
Karl.A
srankin6
January 2014
Ken,
stack looks great…nbw’s take it up a notch…great job can’t wait to see what’s next
KKarns
January 2014
Karl, OK I give…adding individual bristles to 1:87 brooms just aint happening!
I know exactly what you mean regarding the nbw’s…it was fun doing…
Hey Scott, thanks, I wasn’t sure how the wire would shape up but they turned out OK. Like Karl eluded to…not obvious they’re there but they’re there! Ken
KKarns
January 2014
Duluth update..have been detailing the loading dock area. Will finish all details that will not be “sunk” into the dirt surrounding Duluth so I don’t mess that stuff up as I’m working.
Working my way around to the covered loading dock. Will post as things progress. Decided not to include the storage shed but likely will retain the fence…great backdrop for more clutter!..Ken
KKarns
January 2014
Wes
January 2014 edited January 2014
Nice work Ken. It all blends together perfectly without anything standing out.
KKarns
January 2014
Hey Wes…thanks much for the thumbs up on the casting treatment and placement. Small build like this you can legitimately go along slow like I am! Ken
Karl.A
January 2014
More great detail work Ken, the chain is a nice touch. Detailing the details…
Karl.A
captsully18
January 2014
Ken, you have done one bang up job on this build. I wish that my castings come out half as good as yours. I want to apologise (sp) for not acknowloging your post on my build. It was a mistake, and I thank you for stopping by and for your comments. I feel honored to be in the midst of so many gifted modelers.
David
KKarns
January 2014
No problem David…you landed in the right place with SierraWest and the forum.
Karl, yea, I like working with the chain, it weathers nice and looks cool. On with the details. Ken
KKarns
January 2014
I was messin around writing ideas down on a note pad as to what I could put together for junk and clutter around Duluth’s fenced “junk yard” area I have planned. I tore the piece of paper off the pad and noticed the fine serrations left at the top of the page. I thought it looked about right for HO scale teeth on a sawmill band saw. I cut a thin strip off with a metal straight edge and colored the paper with Grimy Black and then rusted them with chalk. I wrapped the thin strips TWICE around to form the loop that I have seen band saw blades take and glued the ends in a short overlap. I briefly checked sawmill band saw blade lengths and came up with around 10 feet. I converted that to ho scale and cut the strips accordingly. Not sure what’s out there for this but I’m sure there is something better! The “teeth” under zoom look crude and since the paper is torn it leaves ragged edges. It looks really good with the naked eye though and add a bunch of weeds growing up and around them they should be fine.
KKarns
January 2014
Front of Duluth detailing prior to dirt is about done. At the north end between the open shed wall and the concrete step casting is a small space. I decided to simulate vines growing up in this gap attached to the shed wall and snaking up and along the roof. I used hemp string and unwound the string then twisted a small group of fibers and ran glue along it between my fingers. Then some chalk and some ground foam for small leaves on the ends. Ken
admin
January 2014
looking great… much dirtier and gritty. The streaking on the front of the dock looks right on but you might try toning the spotting on the roof down with chalk. Smooth it out a bit so it does not look too splotchy… nice junk blades too
Karl.A
January 2014
The band saw blades are such a great idea I should have come up with it. Awesome thinking, competition winning detail.
I agree with Brett’s appraisal of the roof, just needs a little more 'feathering out" and not so many harsh edges.
Details all look awesome… but…
they seem just a little too linear along the edge of the loading dock. Try placing them as if you were loading/unloading them. Space between different piles, orders going out, deliveries coming in, logical placement. Space to move around in between.
The overall look of the structure is just superb in the last picture, from the weathering on the walls to the concrete loading dock. Beautifully done, I keep going back for another look.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2014
Yup…the roof needed re-tooled a bit (see attached)..things givin me fits, thanks Brett for the suggestion and the confirmation Karl.
I tried to keep a clear “isle” going down the loading dock between the building and stuff in front, but that created the linear look you’re talking about Karl. Much of the stuff is glued down already…I’ll look at it some more…
KKarns
January 2014
Brett & Karl, Thanks so much for the comments, means a great deal to me coming from you guys. I hope the roof is beginning to look a bit better.
djdutch
January 2014
Hey Ken, just checking in, wat a great progress I always love to look at your builds always a good explanation and detail shots of what you have done.
And it is a real pleasure to the eye
DJ
KKarns
January 2014
DJ, nice hearing from you and having you following along. Comments like yours makes it so enjoyable to part of this forum! Just about ready for the dirt and the rest of the landscaping. Planning a nice junk and clutter area along the fence and will have an access drive coming in across the tracks. Will also get a picture of the rear of Duluth soon as well. Planning this and thinkin about my next build…Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Hi Ken, the January 18th picture roof rework looks great. The weatherning of the roof is definitely feathered out nicely. This definitely is a nice effect and more realistic. The band saw detail is a great idea and executed very well. I am not for shure about the vine. Something is bothering me about it. My eye keeps going to it rather than all the details you have done (it may be just me). Keep up the great work. I really enjoy following along. Bye the way have you seen your diorama from the craftsman show on vikas chander’s web site? Check it out.
Jim
KKarns
January 2014
Hey Jim, Thanks for the moral support on the roof. I know it is the “weak link” in this build but the nice thing is it can be worked on right up until it’s all done. The appearance of the darn thing has much to do with the lighting. Thanks for the thumbs up on the band saw blades, they would look better in a saw mill junk pile rather than a plumbing supply company junk pile but hey.. it’s my pile! Now you know Jim, the reason your eye keeps going to the vines on the side of the shed is because it’s such an awesome detail you’re automatically drawn to it:)!..or…it really does look like crapola! I see just what you mean from the pictures, and I know we’ve all heard this before, it does look much better and less “out there” in person and without zoom. I’ll finish the landscaping details and we’ll see how it fairs then as it can be edited anytime. On your prompt I went to Vikas’s web-site and low and behold there is a picture of my Diorma of Brett’s Water Tank & Storage Shed. Nice that Vikas thought enough of it to put a picture up on his site.
Thanks Jim for all your intuitive assessments as always…more later…Ken
JohnM
January 2014
Beautiful work Ken . . .
John
KKarns
January 2014
Hi John, Welcome aboard…looks like you may be used to that terminology! Thanks for the comment on Duluth. I have been following your build and I must say, you’re going about it just right. Taking your time and getting a feel for your own style. Like I told David, you’ve landed, there I go again with the puns, in a great place with SierraWest. I love your work area set-up, you always do better work with a nice work area…I said nice not clean! Great progress on the wood, it’s the key element as Brett preaches. It defines your model so hunker down with it. Keep in touch…Ken
All…I have been experimenting with some rusting and weathering techniques and the picture here is a steam pump that will be in my junk/clutter area of Duluth. I wanted a very textured and heavily weathered look to this metal casting.
This guy is only 0.5 inches wide.
KKarns
January 2014
MikeM
January 2014
That texture is absolutely amazing and was accomplished by using…??? (You gotta share this!)
Mike
Wes
January 2014
Hi Ken.
Looking good. I like how the details all blend together without any standing out.
Keep up the good work.
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Fantastic weathering! How did you do it? You gotta share this technique like mike said! The cap looks like you did some polishing with a cloth or your fingers. Did you use Jax blackener?
Jim
KKarns
January 2014
Mike, Wes & Jim…glad you guys like the results. I thought it worked really well. So here’s the skinny:
The technique comes from Chuck Doan who models in a much larger scale than 1:87 or 1:48 but he produces some of the best weathering of wood and metal that I have ever seen. I thought I’d try one of his methods on my 1:87 casting even though the results are very close, in reality you can’t really see the nice detail with the naked eye, but should be really nice overall particularly in an old junk pile with lots of other castings. Here’s what I did:
Clean up the casting parting lines and other imperfections with a #11 blade and small file.
Spray the bare casting with Floquil (or equivalent) Roof Brown from the can.
When dry (I left mine for around 48 hours) apply a cover coat of Testors Dullcoat.
After a few minutes when the casting no longer has the shiny appearance from the initial wet Dullcoat, brush on 70% Isopropyl alcohol and let dry. This will create a whitish random frosted look.
With a medium brush, apply a generous amount of DRY chalk powder. I used the rust families 411.3, 235.3, 409.3 and some gray 704.5. This of course is purely subjective and you can use whatever you like to simulate rust and crud. Blow off the excess.
Spray only a mist coat from around 8-10 inches away from the casting. You want just a mist to contact the casting. This is what creates the mottling and brings up the base coat through the powders.
More later…Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Awesome tutorial! Mike Engler did something similar when he built the tank on the wood cutters shack for the Camp Chambers build.
Thanks!
Jim
MikeM
January 2014
Possibly one additional bit of information about the last step…a mist coat of what, more Dullcoat?
Appreciative and still in awe,
Mike
KKarns
January 2014
Hey Mike, Sorry bout that, yes a mist coat with the Dullcoat. You can keep increasing the amount deposited to suit how much mottling and effect you want. At first I was too far back with the mist and the part looked like it had rain drop spots. Just added more until it came out as you see. Ken
Bill
January 2014
Wow! This just keeps getting better, Ken.
That notebook/saw blade idea is killer. You’ve got a great eye for “potential”-- looking at ordinary every day “stuff” through the lens of a modeler.
Castings are done to perfection, the corrugated on the shed is perfect and, I know it was mentioned earlier, but the NBW you added on the support wire is a terrific detail. Beats the hell out of my “blobs of tar” that I’ve been known to dab on.
You’ve got an attention grabber in this one! How close is it to the finish line?
JohnM
January 2014
Ken, that is without precedent.
John
KKarns
January 2014
Bill, there you are! thanks for the positive note on the saw blade idea. I’ll get em in on the Duluth dio and see how they look. I was happy with the NBW on the support wires even though they are tough to see readily. Finish line?..I keep making more work for myself…working now on laying out the junk and clutter along the fence I’m putting in, I’ll have a dirt road/drive crossing the tracks so that will be a mini scene…wait a minute!..what about you and Quincy?? haven’t seen an update in geesh..forever maybe?
John, thanks a bunch for your nice comment. Anxiously awaiting your progress as you move along with your build. Nice that Paul has such a spectacular build going that you can refer to. His work is so meticulous and exacting it drives you nuts trying to emulate it…Ken
Bill
January 2014
Sorry dude! Work has gotten in the way of EVERYTHING in my life here lately. I’m finishing up a non-SW project right now but I’ll get back to Quincy’s shortly. Meantime, I’ve been trying to incorporate a couple other structures here and there from the Railroad Camp to give Quincy’s a slightly different feel. Not happy with what I’ve come up with so far but I’m getting closer.
KKarns
January 2014
OK Bill, you’re off the hook for now! Added a skid under the steam pump…call it done.
KKarns
January 2014
Still messin around with misc. additions to rusty stuff for my yard area bordering Duluth. I love old tanks and I have a bunch on order from Brett and my plans is to include at least one in each diorama I do. Brett includes cool vintage tanks in most of his kits which is great. This tank started out as a plain oval white metal tank (not from SWSM) with a fair amount of clean up required. I cut of the cast on “feet” and filed it smooth, added the straps made from styrene strips, drilled a hole an installed the outlet valve (not correct valve for this tank I’m sure) and will be attaching a solder wire hose later. Built the platform of course and added the NBWs. Freelanced for sure. Detailing the attached open shed on Duluth now…Ken
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Excellent!
Jim
KKarns
January 2014
Thanks Jim, always nice to hear what you guys have to say. You mentioned you wanted more pictures? Oh, maybe you didn’t but I took some anyway:) Update on the end of the loading dock and the back of Duluth.
ironmountainlumber
January 2014
Alright, you are definitely helping with my obsession. I am shure there is some diagnosis for this obsession with Brett’s models. The pictures look fantastic. I really think you are hitting a home run with this one. Great job!. Ten thumbs up ( yea I am all thumbs at times) Now if I can just get back to the modeling bench…
Jim
JohnM
January 2014
The photos are magnificent Ken . . .
John
Wes
January 2014
Beautiful work. Love it all.
djdutch
January 2014
Hey Ken nice progress, I like the tank I really like the rust color how did you do it.
The pump with the skid is also great, nice tutorial on thatone
DJ
shay987
January 2014
Hi I don’t usally post but I have to thank you for showing us how to achieve the best out of a model. It looks so real !
KKarns
January 2014
Jim, glad to be a motivator of sorts and thanks for the thumbs up so far.. That is one reason I post a bunch of pictures as it AND you guys get me psyched up and it also helps to id flaws and where improvements can be made. What are you working on Jim?
John, Thanks for your comment. I should be just about ready to put the dirt in and the rest of the detailing. The tank and pump will look allot better sunk in the dirt with weeds and other clutter…we’ll see.
DJ: Same treatment on the tank as the pump except I did the process a couple of times back and forth with Dullcoat then chalk and rubbed in the chalk well on the last round with a medium stiff brush dry, that gave it that built up rust look but a hint of smoothness if that makes any sense? I just stopped when I liked the look.
Sahy987…don’t usually post??? lets change that! Give us some details on what you’re up to. Thanks for the note and you’re certainly welcome. Everyone here is very forthcoming with techniques and methods… so what SWSM kits do you have?
More later…Ken
captsully18
January 2014
Ken, I have been following along, although rather silently. You are doing an exemplary job on Duluth. I really hate that it is no longer available, would sure like to build it. I do have a friend here that has a room full of unbuilt models and he may have one of these. Must talk to him soon. Working on castings right now and want to thank you for the info you have put out. It will help if I can make it work for me. Keep up the good work and am looking forward to what you do next.
Dave
shay987
January 2014
Ken. I am working on the essentails right now and have a few more kits comming. I want to say thanks again for your posts, you help us achieve better results on our models.
KKarns
January 2014
Hello Dave, thanks for following along. I have been following your build as well. Your making great progress and things are looking good. I started out doing Duluth when I did as it had numerous new techniques and construct processes that I had not done before. As I got into the build I really liked the character and feel the thing was taking on and of course got hooked on it and now detailing way more than I had originally planned.
Shay987, Nice! Essentials is a great kit and really defines Brett’s Deer Creek Logging Camp empire. I have it, look at it allot, but haven’t built it yet. Your most welcome regarding my posts and it’s your kind words and the knowledge that someone may benefit from the things we post makes it all worth while and so much fun! Ken
KKarns
January 2014 edited January 2014
Duluth update…I scratch built a tool board for the open shed on Duluth. A bit overboard for 1/87 scale but does add a nice touch to the inside of the shed. Brett’s open shed design on the North end of Duluth just begs for special attention! I have spent a week now working on just it…couple of hours a night adding a few rusty pipes, scrap wood, etc to the existing arsenal of castings designed by Brett for the shed.
admin
January 2014
looking forward to seeing your scratchbuilt details incorporated into the dio
djdutch
January 2014
Hey Ken that tool board looks way cool I build one (not finished) but close to this one same tools I guess I think this tools are a great addition to the sierra west models I one’s saw a window which stood ajar with a wrench between it great detail.
I will be follow along
DJ
JohnM
January 2014
Ken, that is fantastic!
John
Karl.A
January 2014
The structure with the details look fantastic Ken, great work as always. Nice job with the little tool shelf aswell, it will make a good addition to the workshed indeed.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2014
Brett, I suppose that’s a subtile way of saying…lets get on with the thing and finish it! Your absolutely right…see my response to the crew below…
Thanks DJ/John. DJ the tools like castings give the appearance as if someone was just there and adds life even without LPs.
I said it before…with Brett’s kits, and you’ll see what I mean John if you haven’t already, by the end of the basic structure build you have such a personal attachment to the thing…and then you start staring at it, turning it around to all known possible viewing angles, and thinking of all the things that you want to include to dress out the diorama. Careful here not to try and do too much and without thought to the overall goal of the original dio, I know cause I’ve done that. The little things by themselves don’t seem to do much but when you combine them all into the entire diorama those little extras speak volumes. I do have to reel myself in at times to not get carried away!
KKarns
January 2014
Karl, thanks and of course your dirt, details, and dioramas thread was and remains my motivation for these extra details and came at a perfect time when I was working on the Backwoods Water Tank & Storage Shed build. Kind of that ahha moment when I studied it back then. If anyone hasn’t seen that thread please check it out this award winning diorama.
Karl.A
January 2014 edited January 2014
I once saw a window which stood ajar with a wrench between it great detail.
My O Scale wood cutters Shack.
An earlier one..
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2014
Don’t let Karl fool you DJ…he just put that wrench there an hour and a half ago! Just messin with ya Karl, should have known that idea was yours. The picture directly above looks like a mechanics deadfall trap. Mechanic can’t help himself and grabs wrench, window falls on mechanic’s hand…got him…awesome detail.
KKarns
January 2014
Duluth update…the open shed at the north end of Duluth is finished except for the air compressor and tool cabinet that will be sunk in the half dirt floor of the shed.
Note: Large oil drum is leaking oil so a piece of corrugated roofing material was bent up to form a catch pan and an old rag is on the edge. A few old license plates are on the left wall, rest is obvious I would guess…Ken
Karl.A
January 2014
I’ve been back to these pictures four times now Ken, and all I can say is ‘fantastic modelling’. just superb.
Karl.A
Wes
January 2014
That chain in the first pic. The sign in the last pic.
What a brilliant job Ken. Wow.
shay987
January 2014
Very nice ! I like the weed growing in the top corner.
srankin6
January 2014
Ken, absolutely fantastic! Going to have to put this up on the big screen …can’t say enough great job!
Scott
LSNRwyAl
January 2014
Well done Ken. Thank-you for sharing.
KKarns
January 2014
Thanks guys! so my spending over a week (couple hours a day) just on the open shed detailing may have paid off…that’s good to know. I am disappointed that no one noticed the brick by the side door used for a door stop! Come on guys really…
Shay987…so you like the poison ivy growing up the side..seems to work OK so far.
Finally ready for some dirt…Ken
Karl…couldn’t have a better compliment…thanks.
djdutch
January 2014
Ken it sure looks great nice details on te oil poster and everything.
Karl when I point out the wrench I meant the second picture love that detail I have the picture on my computer as an idea I like to use ( if you don’t mind) I don’t want to steal your idea
DJ
KKarns
January 2014
DJ, appreciate the comment, had a tough time getting that sign to lay just right and so the “oil” wording was visible.
Check with Karl, but I bet that idea of the wrench propping open the window has been copyrighted!
Still no thoughts on the brick door stop…sigh…Ken
Karl.A
January 2014 edited January 2014
Still no thoughts on the brick door stop…sigh…Ken
Ken, the brick door stop is a great idea, unfortunately with so much great modeling surrounding it it is easily over looked. The viewers eye is drawn to the lean to work area, the loading dock, the structure itself, the round vent, the uncoloured edge of the shingles, so many other great things in the pictures command attention.
However, it is these ‘unseen’ details that make a scene real, the eye does not see them but the subconscious does, Chuck Doan is the master at picking up on, and modeling these types of details, things that we don’t focus on consciously but they fill in the background of the realism, sometimes the overlooked is most important.
There are ways to make it more obvious, the door slightly ajar with the brick between the door and the frame. Scuff marks on the floor showing where the brick has been moved back and forth. Or, the subtlety you have shown, where the viewer is drawn in by everything else and eventually will see it and say “wish i’d thought of that”.
Karl.A
JohnM
January 2014
Beautiful, Ken. If you have time please - I can’t figure out how to get the deep wood texture that shows on your window which is hinged at the top and held open at the bottom with a wrench. I have some pretty mean brushes and can’t get such deep scoring.
When you do nail holes, do they need to be chalked to show?
Respectfully,
John
Karl.A
January 2014
DJ, I absolutely don’t mind you using the idea. anything I post is posted freely in the spirit of sharing and the hope that it may help another modeler.
I hated to jump into Kens thread with my pictures but in the past week 4 or 5 of my ideas have been used around various forums and my name not mentioned. Sometimes it just gets frustrating.
I look forward to seeing your pictures. It’s not stealing, it’s sharing.
Karl.A
KKarns
February 2014
Karl, your statement “sometimes the overlooked is most important” i really like! I think that perfectly encapsulates the idea of modeling the smallest of details that may not be readily apparent to most viewers. This and “eye does not see them but the subconscious does” also awesome thought here…Ken
KKarns
February 2014
Hey John, wish I could school you on that stellar window frame but…that’s Karl’s model. Those couple of images were interjected in this thread to respond to DJs inquiry about the wrench holding the window open idea. Karl can expand, particularly on how he did the mullions! awesome Karl!, but the nice deep texture on the frames is from the careful use of a wire brush. You should be able to get a controlled amount of wood grain depending on how vigorously you wire brush the wood. Brush your wood, with the grain, back and forth for awhile then use a stiff dry brush to clean out the grooves and take a look under magnification (particularly with 1/87 scale) and you’ll see the grain. Not enough…do some more..etc. Remember if you use any water based liquid after the wood grain will swell a bit and not be as apparent. You can also impart some nice heavy grain and rotting wood effects by picking and cutting the boards with a #11 blade (see Brett’s instruction manual…ooops! Bible to most of us!) depending on how run down you want things. A challenge is the laser cut window frames. These are soo nice to work with that the inability to get a perfect match in wood grain to real wood is overpowered by the awesome utility again particularly in 1/87 scale. What I do with those is color and texture them with the chalks as per Brett’s bible (hah, got it that time) then I have a piece of old Oak baseboard trim that I scrape some chalk powder onto, whichever color I want, and I rub it around onto the piece of wood. Then I take the laser window frame and place it good side down on the wood and very lightly slide the frame on the wood with slight pressure in the direction of the desire grain. You can even vary the direction on one window by using the very edge of the board and rubbing one way for the sill and the other for the sides. This is a very subtile and should just give a hint of one direction “streaking” that looks like grain direction. You can also just chalk up the window frame enough with chalk that the laser wood grain is hidden and there is enough texture in the chalk the frame will look great.
My thoughts on nail holes echo Brett’s instructions and here’s how I do them..
The nail holes should be very subtile as its the combined effect of the nail holes that gives the appearance you want. They would actually be nearly invisible in 1/87 but as Brett states walls would look unnatural without them particularly clapboard walls. I use a round pointed metal scribe. As with wood grain, if you place the nail holes then use water based liquid you may find the nail holes close up. I impart the nail holes after my boards are colored and textured and then just a light dab of AI (alcohol and India Ink)to the board ends. This will highlight the nail holes. If you want a look of rusty nail holes here and there you can use a very fine brush and just touch the nail hole with a bit, dinky little bit, of rust chalk and then a bit of AI. One final note. I put my nail holes in before I place the boards on the walls. I have better control, can add splits and cracks at the nail holes and I don’t favor pushing in nail holes on a delicate finished wall.
Sorry you asked aren’t ya John??
JohnM
February 2014
Ken, yes, I am the guilty party who mentioned a tip of yours without due credit! My sincerest apology - I am so overloaded with data now that I lose track of sources . . . When I’m working I am trying to roll everything I have read into play - even then I frustrate myself in their execution.
No, I am not sorry I asked - you told me precisely what I want to know. Both of the above paragraphs are “keepers” for me. Your comments about what closes the grain after brushing is so logical yet I overlooked it in practice, though I am subconsciously aware of such a natural occurrence. I have beat up some of my planks so bad with the toughest brush sold at Home Depot, thinking I am going to wear it paper thin and still don’t see the wonderfully deep grains that most of you produce. Post wetting and not cleaning them out would be partial contributors.
Respectfully,
John
Bill
February 2014
Ken-
Your last 4 pictures of the end of the building are phenomenal! Outstanding detail work that will make this project a real gem. Love it!
KKarns
February 2014
Hey Bill, your comments here are really appreciated as I know you have an eye for detail. Real exercise in manual dexterity to get that small stuff in that shed in the right spot! How’s Quincy commin along? I just started putting down dirt this evening. This part always looks like crap in the beginning! Won’t post this part until it looks like something…Ken
James
February 2014
Love the wall with the tools/ chains in the open shed. That’s often the key to convincing clutter - clutter based on an understanding or vision of how someone would arrange or hang or store tools, bottles, cans etc.
For people like me who haven’t done a paid day’s work of manual labour in my life (I come from a long line of eggheads) it is fun researching storage and work yards and machine shops and such. There are so many great resources on line now one can really learn about how these old facilities functioned and looked. And seeing how others model these areas.
KKarns
February 2014
James, thanks for your critique here as you seem to have a good eye for these details and happy to have input. That’s what makes this hobby so much fun is the different avenues you can take…from the building to the research, photography, etc..thanks for following.Ken
Coors2u
February 2014
Ken, I’ve really enjoyed following along with your build. Your casting work has given me some great tips. Keep up the great work.
KKarns
February 2014
Coors2u(?) Thanks for the note and really glad I was able to inspire some useful tips. Much left to do on Duluth. Spreading dirt and the surrounding details as we speak. More later…Ken
Coors2u
February 2014
Ken, its actually Dustin. I work for a beer distributor IE "Coors2u"I know I should add my name on stuff. What are you using for the dirt?
KKarns
February 2014 edited February 2014
Ahh, thanks Dustin. Just so much more personal to have a name and I thought I had yours but couldn’t remember.
Dirt…I use real dirt in a couple of different colors shades. I sift it through a mesh screen pretty fine for the base layer. I then use various coarser materials on top of that for the various areas on the diorama. The best stuff for that I found was sifting the fine material from an old gravel parking area. Got some nice variation in material and textures. You’ll see it on Duluth when I post those pictures.
KKarns
February 2014
Here is a “teaser” photo of my start on the perimeter of Duluth. Didn’t want anyone to think I was slacking around. Lots to do yet and will post all the pics when done…
ironmountainlumber
February 2014
Hi Ken,
I was checking in to see what you are up to. This initial shot with the scenery is superb.
At least to my eye it seems very natural. Great placment of the weeds and debris. I like the bucket and hose on the dock too. You asked me what I am up to. I am working on the Lineside Storage Shed. Bye the way, I have been going back to your marvous build of this kit as I do mine for inspiration! I thought I might have the Logging essentials kit done but am still working on it too. Keep up the fantastic work! Looking foward to seeing the completed scenery!
Jim
KKarns
February 2014
There’s Jim! Nice hearing from you. Great to hear your keeping busy and I had a blast with the LineSide. It’s a great little build and looks fantastic on a layout. Need these smaller projects in amongst the big ones like Essentials. We need to see some pictures of your stuff! Thanks for your take on my scenery so far. It’s not the best picture but didn’t want to post anything too revealing as yet until it’s done. It takes a bunch of time to detail the ground work as I have it. Made a mountain of work for myself but I think the end diorama should be worth the effort…we’ll see!
shay987
February 2014
Looking great !! Like Jim said it looks so natural.
KKarns
February 2014
Thanks John. Just made an HO scale RR crossing sign with a dry transfer decal…that’s some small stuff!
Karl.A
February 2014
Looking terrific Ken, I’m eager to see more. Really nice scenery work.
Karl.A
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Very nice.
KKarns
February 2014
Thanks Alan…nice to get the moral support from the gang.
Karl, felt I needed to get something posted so you didn’t think I was loafing. I am making progress albeit slow but detailing Duluth as I am is really getting interesting and taking way longer than I originally planned. This I feel is a good thing…back to the bench…Ken
davej
February 2014
looks fantastic Ken, can’t wait to see the finished dio.
cheers
Dave
KKarns
February 2014
Thanks Dave, should be wrapping this thing up in a few weeks. Lots of pictures will be forthcoming, like it or not!
Karl.A
February 2014
We like !!
shay987
February 2014
More pics the better !
James
February 2014
Wow - that is a great scene- love the beat up boards at the docks and the landscaping/ barrels , wheel ruts etc, Great scene- making!
KKarns
February 2014
Karl, John..thanks for the positive on the more pictures. I like looking at pictures as well but don’t want to get annoying at the same time. There will be a bunch coming as soon as I finish this thing…keep finding stuff to do!
James, was hoping my initial “scene” was working so appreciate your comments, the dio is 15" x 9" and detailed throughout so much more to come.
KKarns
February 2014
Here are a couple of pics of an end fence section I built for the anchor end of a run down wire fence for the north end of duluth. It’s a scale 4 foot high by 6 foot long. the bottom posts sections that hang down are to mount in the foam scenery base. See…I am actually moving along with this thing! more later…Ken
shay987
February 2014
Great fence ! What do you use for glue ? You can’t see any litle globs that always show up.
KKarns
February 2014
Hey John, appreciate the comment and I used just very small dabs of plain white Elmers white glue. Ken
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Beautiful, absolutely beautiful.
JohnM
February 2014
Ken,
Your detailing is inspirational to me. I could never create such results myself - it is not within my skill set, but having work like yours to look at and attempt to duplicate is a monumental help.
Respectfully,
John
KKarns
March 2014
In follow-up to the one end section of my scratch built wire fence I posted, I have completed the fence at the north end of Duluth. This is the last part of the complete diorama that remains to detail. I will be adding weeds and such along the fence and the area outside the open shed will be an active work area with much going on. The steam pump from previous post will be worked on here as well as pipe storage and assembly etc…
wire fence made from drywall tape, strip wood, and Styrene Tee for the metal posts, and Styrene rod for the cross bracing on the end piece and corner piece.
JohnM
March 2014
Ken, that is a work of art! I just went back a few posts to refresh myself on how you put that together. Can you get in close and show how you are adding the sections one to another? Presumably that seven section fence made as one piece.
John
KKarns
March 2014
Hi John, Thanks for your positive thoughts on the fence. I’m trying to post just enough so you guys don’t think I’m loafing as the entire thing is almost done. I appreciate you asking about how I did the fence. I don’t like to post too much on how I do things UNLESS someone asks as I don’t want anyone to feel like I’m suggesting or pandering my methods. Anyway here goes:
The fence material is the drywall tape as the square holes are the right size and I had some on hand. The tedious part is that the vertical strips of the tape are a bit wider than the horizontal strips so I used a #11 blade and cut each individual section down thinner, about half the original width! The good part is it came out just varied enough that it looks like real wire fencing. I found the tape is just the right stiffness that it holds its shape but can be bent and cut easily..you’ll see this on the diorama. The material accepts paint and chalk really well.
I constructed the end supports and glued the fence material to them separately as the fence needs attached on three sides and needs to look good. I was able to get the fence section right under my nose and line it up and then weight down the material after gluing. I then mounted the one end section and the corner sections to the diorama base.
I then cut my metal fence posts from styrene “T” and used a #11 blade and made the protruding “hook” like pieces that prototypical fence posts have to anchor the wire. Painted the posts with roof brown than rusted them up. I placed those in the diorama base keeping them plumb along my line and even at the top. I then cut a single piece of the fence material to go between the two end pieces and attached to each post face with small spots of white glue.
I’ll get some good close shots when I post the completed diorama which is just around the corner. Sorry for the winded tutorial, if you have any questions let me know.
Here is a shot of the styrene “T” I made the fence posts with. Note the flat face of the post with the prototypical “hooks” for the fencing to attach to. I made these with the #11 blade…tedious..!
captsully18
March 2014
Fabulous fence, Ken. Looking forward to seeing the finished dio. You do such good work. And give very good advice.
Dave
KKarns
March 2014
Hi Dave, Thanks for the thoughts on the fence, small detail in the grand scheme of things but put them all together and they add up. Have been following your Scotia build and your making great progress and getting a good feel for the weathering and details. Keep up the good work there. I have this kit as well and look forward to getting it started and your build certainly will help. Ken
JohnM
March 2014
Ken,
OMG. That is an unbelievable story. I am constantly in awe of how folks like you imagineer these solutions. The tape solution is enough, but then marking up the T stock is over the top. My hat is off to you sir !!!
Respectfully,
John
By the way, Mark Twain said, “Bragging ain’t lying”.
shay987
March 2014
Great fence !
KKarns
March 2014
Hey JohnM, the detail on the “T” stock was a bit fussy but when you add up all those little details it does make a difference, at least that’s how I rationalize my doing that to something 3/64 of an inch wide!. Thanks for your comments as it’s nice when folks recognize the amount of “work” that goes into those details and I was pleased with how it turned out. I’m very close to getting things wrapped up on this one and will be posting the results very soon. Thanks again!
Hi John (shay987), thanks for the note, it looks much better with the weeds and such growing up around it. You can just see a bit in my picture at the far end, the rest will be done soon.
Ken
KKarns
March 2014
Still detailing…here is a pipe storage rack I made out of styrene “H” girder and bar stock. This will hold a couple different size pipes outside in the work area of Duluth. Putting the finishing touches on the fence line and work area…almost there…Ken
Karl.A
March 2014
That looks terrific Ken, really nicely done. Particularly the finish, just enough rust to show that its been outside for a while but also well kept enough to show that it’s still in daily use… nice balance.
Oh, and the quality of construction is superb.
Karl..A
KKarns
March 2014
Karl! there you are…nice hearing from you and thanks for the comments on the rack. Having a blast with the detailing. Meant to tell you you cracked me up with the Clint Eastwood sound bite…I’ve seen about all his movies..great stuff. Speaking of racks…no I’m not going to say it! here’s one I made for an oil/kerosene/? barrel…also for the work area…
Karl.A
March 2014
sweet!
Ojaste
March 2014
The barrel stand look really good. I see one of the legs look shiny, what did you use to get that effect?
shay987
March 2014
Nice pair of racks !
KKarns
March 2014
Thanks Karl…and of course will look better nestled in the dirt..
Ojaste, shiny!..what the..can’t be…where is…shiny! I typically don’t like much in my dios that’s shiny as it usually sticks out like a sore thumb even though prototypical. Some subtile shiny parts where appropriate works well. I didn’t mean for that leg to look that way but if it looks good we’ll say I did! I think it’s where I was holding it to work on the spout and clean up the epoxy where I glued the tank down to the supports, but you’re right when I look at it closer it looks like it’s worn more from some use or something. Good eye there…
Ken
KKarns
March 2014
John (Shay987), see…I said I wasn’t going to say it, but glad you did! Great minds think alike…
Ken
JohnM
March 2014
Ken, those two stands are really good. I particularly note the sharpness of your photography - that is what I am trying to achieve now. Keep the pictures coming please.
John
KKarns
March 2014
JohnM, Thanks John. I’m just about ready to wrap up the build. You will be seeing a plethora of pictures once that occurs. Many, many little scenes to illustrate. I’m working on getting really good depth of field shots and am excited by how they are looking. Your modeling is looking great John and your enthusiasm here on the forum is keeping everyone fire up and working! Great stuff isn’t it…
Karl.A
March 2014
I agree with John and Ken’s last comments, great work guys.
Karl.A
djdutch
March 2014
Hey Ken it’s been awhile since I checked in here, but wow what a wonderful detailing it certainly looks great.
DJ
KKarns
March 2014
Hey DJ, nice hearing from you. I have been posting a few of the detail items biding my posting time until I finish up and begin posting the finals. Just completed a metal scrap bin which is about a scale 6’ x 4’ with wood support and metal bottom and sides. The pipe rack and oil barrel and support are in place and the fence is done…Ken
KKarns
March 2014
The Duluth build is finally done. I finished up a few details today and attempted to get some outdoor pictures when I got home from work around 5:30 pm. The sun was too low to get any good shots. I did however get the one posted here to give an idea of things. I will post a series of distance shots around the perimeter to give a feel for the layout, then after that a series of shots for each “mini scene” with an explanation of what it’s supposed to be!
ironmountainlumber
March 2014
Awesome job Mr.Karns! Looking forward to more pictures.
Jim
JohnM
March 2014
Ken, that is spectacular. Many of the subtle shadows on the building offer a sense of realism. The shingles, the trash, wow! Hopefully you’ll have additional photos.
Respectfully,
John
KKarns
March 2014
Yo Jim…thanks buddy..lots and lots of neat details to show you…
Hey John, thanks so much for your comments and many more pictures to come, just need to get a good day with some overhead sun for the overall shots as I get better depth of field. I have already taken a bunch of indoor close shots of the detailed scenes which look fine. More soon. Ken
Coors2u
March 2014
Can’t wait to see the rest of the details Ken.
KKarns
March 2014
I’ll start tomorrow evening throwing up a bunch sunny or not…
Karl.A
March 2014 edited March 2014
Looks fantastic Ken, definitely looking forward to more.
In my (very limited) experience I have found that overcast but bright light gives the best truest colour pictures. Bright, full sunshine always tends to wash out my shots and give too much reflective glare from the model in most pictures. However, I am just a “point and shoot, auto everything” kinda guy, so I cant really give photography advice.
The results of the lighting in the shot you just posted looks pretty darned great to me.
Karl.A
Ojaste
March 2014
If you want “mood” and interesting photographs the morning and evening light are best. If you just want factual images, 3:00 PM is the better choice. If there are still too much shadows use a “fill-in” flash, it will help.
Marty
djdutch
March 2014 edited March 2014
Ken I can’t wait to see more of this wonderfull model I like the grasses and ground cover a lot, a parking lot you said ? and that’s only the ground cover.
Not to speek about your fine modeling the wire fence the details in the shed and those wonderfull colors you used. great modeling Ken
DJ
admin
March 2014
Wonderful… Looking forward to more. Keep in mind late afternoon sun is the best to shoot with if you want dramatic shots with contrasting shadows and warm colors.
shay987
March 2014
Great colours ! feels so alive.
srankin6
March 2014
looks fantastic…great job!
LSNRwyAl
March 2014
Beautiful!
captsully18
March 2014
Ken, I believe all the adjectives have been used. So all I can think of is “what all the others said”. I, also, am looking forward to the pics of the finished scene. Tho I’m not sure you will consider it finished. Would bet you find more to add at some time. Details, details, details. That’s what all you “top shelf” guys say.
Thanks for sharing this build. It is inspiring.
Dave
KKarns
March 2014
Thanks much you guys. It’s been a blast working on Duluth. With a relatively small structure foot print I decided to beef up the diorama dimensions to 15" x 9", this allowed me to experiment with many techniques I wanted to look at. The wire fence was one. Your comments mean everything and I appreciate every one. I decided to not post the overall pics as I’m still not thrilled with how they turned out. Brett, you’re so right…I needed more shadows and highlights and both Karl and Marty hit on the same issue. I’ll post those when I get some good ones tomorrow or so.
What I am posting are some shots of the North end of Duluth at the open shed area I took indoors. The layout I came up with has the active pipe fitting, cutting, welding sharpening, etc. at this location. There is the general loafing area in back and the loading dock(s) area and then I made a junk area of old parts, and an oil/container storage area. Anyway, I’ll describe each area as it comes up but for this round it will be the active work area…
Here’s a view of the work area. I put in a pipe storage rack, welding table, pipe cutting/fitting rack, scarp metal bin, and loafing bench!
Duluth has been converted to fuel oil so the old coal stove has been scraped.
Welding tanks secured, note the wrench hanging on the wall for changing the valves.
This shot is to highlight the wire fence, helps to define the work area…
Coil of barbed wire has the bend going the wrong way! I have since corrected…
This shot is in the back by the back deck. Explanation needed…There are some large pipes rusting away and part of the wire fence is being torn down. The old stakes with dirty ends are piled up, old fence being rolled up and the debris from the fence line being burned in the burn pile, gas can to torch things!
Crossing for the road going to the back loading docks. I had the typical cross buck white and black sign but it didn’t look right (out of scale). I’ll post more tomorrow…Ken
shay987
March 2014
All I can say is WOW !!!
JohnM
March 2014
That is uncanny . . . . The lighting seems to perfectly reflect the mood.
Respectfully,
John
KKarns
March 2014
John, thanks for the singular comment!
JohnM, the lighting turned out OK for indoor work. I was happy with the “feel” it gave things as well…Ken
KKarns
March 2014
John, thanks for the singular comment!
JohnM, the lighting turned out OK for indoor work. I was happy with the “feel” it gave things as well…Ken
KKarns
March 2014
Decided to throw up the remaining pictures of the north end work area before leaving…
Scrap metal bin. Made from styrene and strip wood.
Close up of the pipe cutting rack. Cut end of pipe on the rack was left alone to appear like it was just cut and the piece that was cut off is on the ground below it…
You all said you like pictures!..just fast forward if it gets ridiculous…Ken
KKarns
March 2014
Shot of the steel welding table. Note the quenching bucket full of water and a metal drill bit stuck in to cool.
captsully18
March 2014
Ken, great pics. Thanks. Would like to ask one question. What did you use for those grass tufts along the wire fence?
Dave
Ojaste
March 2014
Ken,
The detail is endless, love it. The one thing missing is a Waldo. Just kidding.
/Marty
admin
March 2014
The details are great, you know that bro… I want to point out that the scenery is exceptional - especially in HO scale. I love the ties too. They have just the right feel. Know all you need is tie plates, rail joiners, and spikes. No no no… just kidding. Oh man created a real monster here.
KKarns
March 2014 edited March 2014
Thanks Brett! Modeled the ties based on your instructions back on the Water Tank…light weathered rail, buried weathered ties that are just a bit crooked here and there..great recipe..hmm..rail details
Thanks Marty lots more below…
Dave, I used three different materials for the fence brush. The tallest weeds are a natural growing seed head from a local legume (tall grass). It has a natural clump of growth that can be plucked off, trimmed how you like, and glued down. I can take some pictures if you like but I think the lower, fuller stuff is what you’re questioning. That is by far the best stuff I have used and is merely clumps of unraveled jute string. Can describe in more detail if you want just let me know.
Here are some more pictures…I’m switching to the opposite end of Duluth (south side).
Here is the road leading to the back of Duluth and the loading dock area and old equipment/parts junk area.
Looking back as you would leave Duluth’s loading docks. I did not get the backside of the wood fence detailed and probably wont right now…oh well…
View of the South 1 loading dock and junk/oil tank storage area
Next posting will be the back and front details and then some general all around pictures then done…Ken
JohnM
March 2014
Oh boy Ken, everyone is a work of art and could be studied for details for hours . . .
Respectfully,
John
captsully18
March 2014
Yeah, what John said. Would like to have a set up to plug into my big screen tv and view these. Would probably stay up all night. ( Oh, yeah, I usually do anyway. I forgot)
Ken, the tall weeds are what I was talking about. I’ve tried everything I know of trying to get the same effect with only limited success. Some pics could be helpful, I think.
Thanks
Dave
Karl.A
March 2014
Well Dave, I’m currently sitting on my sofa looking at these on my 55 and I can tell you right now that they look magnificent !!!
Really, REALLY superb work Ken, everything is beautifully and perfectly done.
Karl.A
KKarns
March 2014
John, thanks so much. As you have found out or will soon, when you get one of brett’s kits done you don’t want to be done! You get so attached to the build that you want to do more. I wanted to give Duluth the setting it deserved and worked to achieve that in my own mind at least.
Dave, thanks as well but don’t get too close you’re going to start finding stuff! I’ll get some more detailed pics of the weeds and more detailed on how I got there.
Decided to post the rest of my pics and get it done…
Detail shot of the back deck of Duluth…the loafing area. Note the chair on the deck, newspaper, bottle of beer?, and the loafing bench by the hose and spigot.
Main back loading dock.
View of the front of Duluth. Area between the track and the elevated dock. I saw this as a low area where junk would accumulate. If it fell down here no one was going after it! Note the busted up old pallet.
Last series of pictures…these pictures walk you around Duluth starting from the front left of Duluth if your standing where the picture is taken and working around counter clockwise.
My favorite view of Duluth is from the rear! So much character and interest. My opinion is…a sure sign of a superior design and careful attention to detail is when the back of a structure looks as good or better than the front! Well done Brett…
OK..I’m done…
KKarns
March 2014
Karl, thanks so much for your comments. You know what I think of you and your modeling prowess! Didn’t see your comment until after these last set of pictures. Sorry so many but it helps me document this thing. A few things will be touched up such as I already added a bit of soil contrast at the hose and spigot to look like a wet area, a few little shiny spots here and there, etc.. Remember, your dirt, details, and dioramas thread is what inspired me to work at the scenery and road details…
Ojaste
March 2014
Ken, still have not found Waldo…are you going to spike the rails?
Marty
KKarns
March 2014
Marty, too many pictures isn’t it…Waldo went inside, he got tired of getting his picture taken.
Spike the rail? probably should huh…
Coors2u
March 2014
Fabulous work Ken. First rate all around. You can really tell the patients and effort you put into every detail.
Karl.A
March 2014
Dude, WOW !
captsully18
March 2014
Awesome, inspirational.
Dave
captsully18
March 2014
BTW, Karl, thanks for rubbing it in. :>)
Dave
Wes
March 2014
Ken this build has turned out brilliantly. Cant think of anything else to say to be honest.
All the colours blend together so welll and look so natural together. Well done my friend.
shay987
March 2014
Not just natural but Supper Natural !! Ken when you put the long grass and weeds down, do you make them in groups fist or just one by one ?
ironmountainlumber
March 2014
Hi Ken,
I am speechless. This a masterpiece. I would love to see this in person someday. Your level of modeling continues to inspire and impress all of us! I am really looking forward to your next build.
Cheers!
Jim
James
March 2014
Absolutely perfect in all respects! I can’t believe this is an HO diorama! Everything blends together down to the ties and grass. Colouring is spot on!
KKarns
March 2014 edited March 2014
Marty, thanks much…you mentioned the patience it takes…for sure, and what I do that works for me, and Brett talks about it in his bibles (manuals), is treating each small area as a “mini scene” I would concentrate on each small area at a time with the overall goal of blending all together. Seemed to keep me focused and made it a blast to work on.
Wes and Jim, thanks also for your following along and your positive comments. I miss you guys when I don’t hear from you in awhile…
James, thanks and coming from you and your skills as a modeler means allot to me!
John, Thanks and you asked about the weeds as did Dave and I promised I would go into more detail…here goes…
I used jute string that comes in a small bail that I found at Hobby Lobby. The string has three separate strands wound loosely together. I cut about an inch long piece then unwound the string and pulled apart the three strands. Each strand is about an eighth of an inch in diameter. From here I teased apart the fibers so they weren’t so tight then pinched the strands back together and then held the strand at the length I wanted with a pair of forceps and the cut below the forceps with small scissors. I then dunked the end in white glue and applied the the scene. Beauty of this is you can choose how tall and how thick the weed by just grabbing the amount of fiber “bunch” you want. If you use a whole single strand it would make a big thick weed or grab off maybe a third of a single strand and you have a smaller thinner weed. You can also color the fiber with chalk and alcohol like Brett’s instructions of late for strip wood. I liked the natural the best anyway. Once the tuft is “planted” and the glue is dry, you can tease apart the clump however you like. See photos below…hope that helps and glad to help anytime…
Life time supply I would imagine!
Jute string with the three wound main strands.
Here’s my inch long piece with the three main strands being separated.
One of the three strands pulled off and teased apart.
Desired thickness of the teased apart single strand re-bunched and pinched with forceps.
Cut below forceps with small scissors-small weed.
Bigger weed!
KKarns
March 2014
Oh, and just so you guys know…this demo cost me about an inch of my 240 some odd feet of string! Geesh…
Bill
March 2014
Outstanding work, Ken! Absolutely stellar. All those little extra details are what make this model top notch. I already have pages bookmarked for ideas to “borrow”.
Again, terrific work!
shay987
March 2014
Thanks Ken. It looks so easy to do, but you have a great touch and a great eye to get the results you got. I will have to try it. Thanks again.
Ojaste
March 2014
Ken,
I went to my “test” diorama and practiced that method and it does look great. I found it easier to put the dab of glue and stick the jute into it. One thing I would like to try next is to colour the glue with PolyS Earth or Roof Brown to represent the way tall grasses clumps around the roots.
Thanks for the kick in the pants to get doing the scenery.
Marty
captsully18
March 2014
Thanks a bunch, Ken. That is just what I was looking for. Got some jute on the shelf and it never occurred to me to try that. Dense ol’ me.
Dave
srankin6
March 2014
fantastic job! And great tutorial …absolutely love the way the diorama looks…award winning!
KKarns
March 2014
Bill, hey buddy nice hearing from you! Thanks for the comments and coming from you, with your eye for detail and what you accomplished with the legendary SWSM Twin Mills build, means so much. I/we need to see a Quincy update! I scored a Quincy kit awhile back so I’m anxious to see what you do with this guy…keep in touch my man…
John, I think you’ll be reasonably pleased with the results and thanks for your comments.
Marty, awesome glad you gave it a go. Let me know how the coloring goes on the base clump. One thing I found that I like about putting the glue on the tuft first is that if it needs to be placed in a hard to reach spot, I put a little glue on the end with my fingers with no blob and let it dry which holds the clump together then I can hold the clump by my forceps at any angle I want and then put a small bit of fresh glue on the end and maneuver it into position.
Dave, let me know how it goes when you try it. Lots of versatility with this stuff.
Hey Scott, thanks much and appreciate your support on the tutorial. It’s hard sometimes to properly illustrate what you are doing without an illustration!
What’s next??
JohnM
March 2014
Ken and Marty, you are taking this to an entirely new level. Brett’s next manual will be including many additional “steps” in detailing . . .
Excellent work preceded by innovation.
Respectfully,
John
LSNRwyAl
March 2014
wonderful.
djdutch
March 2014
wow Ken your new pictures really look fantastic nice overall look, it all blends together nicely thanks for sharing
DJ
KKarns
March 2014
Alan and DJ, thanks much for your comments, this was a really a enjoyable build with many new techniques explored. On to the next thing…?? Ken
KKarns
March 2014
John, thanks for your sentiments, it’s so much fun to work at this knowing you guys are out there checking in! Will keep track of your progress…Ken