This thread was started in October, 2022
randyp
October 2022 in O Scale Builds
I just received my Water Tank and Handcar Repair kit today. Of course I opened box and had a look at what was inside. I am not going to post pictures of me opening the box or of all the great parts inside. Karl has already covered that in great detail. I am looking forward to getting to work on my own build and posting pictures and comments of my work. I hope you follow along and comment and make suggestions about how I can improve my model. Thanks Randy
Comments
brownbr
October 2022
Looking forward to it Randy
kebmo
October 2022
how could we not?
KKarns
October 2022
For sure Randy! Will be following along closely.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan, Kevin, and Ken. I plan to grain the wood for the siding and add some knots tonight. It begins. Randy
Karl.A
October 2022
Looking very forward to following your progress on this great kit Randy. I know you will have a great result after you have had a great journey through the build.
Keep us all updated as you go along.
randyp
October 2022
Thank you Karl. I worked on graining and detailing the siding tonight. I did things a little differently with the knots. I will post pictures tomorrow. Randy
KKarns
October 2022
Look forward to seeing what you did with the knots…
randyp
October 2022
Ken, there is only a slight difference in technique. The biggest difference is in the material I use. I do not care for knots that stick up from the surface of the board. A few like that would be fine but not all. So instead of using toothpicks I use 1/16 inch balsa wood. Balsa is softer and will cut off easier when I trim the knots at the end. I sharpen the wood in an old crank pencil sharpener.
This results in a nice point that will go through the hole in the board.
I then go on with the usual technique of making a hole in the wood with the tip of a hobby knife, enlarging it with a bead reamer, and then glueing in the pointed balsa wood.
Here are three boards with the balsa wood in place and the glue dried. The pile of wood at the top of the picture is the wood I plan to add knots to. this is about half of the siding.
As I said at the start I don’t like knots that stick up proud of the surface of the board. I use nippers to cut off the extra balsa wood.
This leaves, to me at least, an unsightly big blob.
I then us a razor blade to slice off the blob of balsa and glue. I cut from both ways until I can not feel a bump.
Which leaves a nice tight flush knot.
As I said Ken not a big difference but one I used on my Truck Repair and I liked the results. I hope Brett doesn’t mind all the pictures. Thanks, Randy
KKarns
October 2022
Great result Randy. A couple of things I like to do to change the appearance a bit. I punch a hole in the stripwood and then insert the end of the toothpick and force it in just a bit to distort the wood around the toothpick. This gives some nice effects. Angling the toothpick at a steep angle will give an oblong knot and I use a rather dull pair of side snips and slowly squeeze and crush the toothpick a bit before actually cutting it off. I then turn the board over, good side down on my glass, and force the wood down around the cut off toothpick to make sure it’s flush.
kebmo
October 2022
ken: i’m gonna have to try turning the board over and mashing it onto the toothpick next time i do an oblong one. thanks for the idea…
randy, your process may be made a little shorter by using a flush cutting toe nail clipper. i use one and it usually picks the glue glob right up with the stub that[s being cut off.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks for the advice Ken. As you can see I have a lot more wood to add knots to. So I will be sure to try your suggestions. I will let you know how things work out. Thanks again, Randy
randyp
October 2022
Kevin I may give that a try. Thanks, Randy
KKarns
October 2022
You bet Randy! Fun to see how many different ways a simple knot hole can be created. Hey Kevin no problem! I like to do that to keep the knot from standing proud of the piece of wood.
Karl.A
October 2022 edited October 2022
I like to keep them flush also… so, I came up with the “nail clippers” about 15 years ago.
Clip and then flip the board and push the knot flush to the outside, then clip the inside if needed and sand flush on the inside with a nail file, if the interior is visible.
Your knots are looking great Randy with your method also.
mikemettelka
October 2022
I’ve been looking for a sharpener like that!
brownbr
October 2022
I like to shave off the bulge with a razor also.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Ken, Karl, Mike, and Bryan. Last night I got most of the rest of the knots installed. I have about six or seven more boards to work with. I will do those first then start cutting of the extra balsa from the other boards. I don’t want any one to think I was not following Brett’s great instructions. I did grain the wood and put in saw marks before the knots. I was just covering Ken’s comment about wanting to know what I was going to do with the knots.
So back on track. I grained the wood using three different steel brushes shown in the picture below.
about half of the wood was grained with the pipe brush, and about a forth was done with each of the other two brushes. here are three boards with one done with each of the brushes.
The one on the left was grained with the yellow brush, the board in the middle was done with the brush with the long stiff bristles, and the last board was grained with the pipe brush.
I then went on to adding the saw banding marks with a razor blade.
I was rather proud of myself while doing this. I only cut one board into two pieces.
I plan to finish up the knots tonight. The next step will be to stain this batch of wood. I am just waiting for Rich Rands to get back with me to tell me what color he would like the wood to be stained. Thanks for reading and for any comments. Randy
brownbr
October 2022
Randy, I’m a big fan of a stiff wire brush that fits better in your hand like your middle brush. I find it much easier to use than a card file or the bottom brush in your picture. I found one that is much smaller and easier to control at Northern Tool. It’s made by Hobart. Listed as small wire brush-steel 770108
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan. I will look it up and see about getting one. Thanks Randy
randyp
October 2022 edited October 2022
Bryan, I got out my sprue nippers from PBL and they worked just fine. However, I still hit the tops of the knots with a razor blade. Ken I tried the pressing the knots to the glass and did not like the results. I think because the balsa wood is so much softer the ends smashed out to the size of a pancake.
The wood is stained. Rich likes a more gray color than Brett’s instruction calls for. I used Joel’s coloring suggestion, from his Truck Repair build, of white and black chalk for the largest part of the wood.
Some of the oversized knots can be seen. Also two spots where I scraped with a razor blade and sanded to get rid of the big knots. The rest of the wood was stained closer to Brett’s instructions. I used the 408.3 and 408.5 chalks with a little black on a very few boards.
The boards that are a little more gray will be used on outside edges of breezeway where the boards would get more sun and rain. The third from the right will go next to the opening and the fourth from the right will be next. then the other boards will be used randomly. I am going to try to put the siding on at least one of the walls tonight. Thanks Randy
KKarns
October 2022
Ahh…you’re right, the much softer balsa would tend to smush rather than push back through. Didn’t think of that when I mentioned it…good example of what not to do! Boards are looking great and you’re keeping the saw banding subtile and not overdone.
EmeryJ
October 2022
Wood work is spot on.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Emery. Now I need to go back and reread Dr. Grunge’s Wood clinic to add more details to the wood.
brownbr
October 2022
I like the color
kebmo
October 2022
randyp said:
Thanks Bryan. I will look it up and see about getting one. Thanks Randy
i got one and bryan’s right. it’s my #2 brush, my main brush being the smaller plumbing brush.
Robert.G
October 2022
Nice greyish color on the boards.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks, Robert for your support. Here are a few of those grayish boards being glued to the fraim work. Bret’s instructions always says not to use too much glue. I like to use an old denial pick to apply just a little spot of glue.
Here is the front side of the repair shed with all the boards it place. I am waiting for the glue to dry before I cut off the overhangs.
It looks like I got the board just above the left side of the door a little catawampus. I am not going back and try to fix it because I think it adds a little more interest to the wall above the door. The short boards down each side of the door now do not line up with each other. Again I think this adds interest to the wall. However, it will not make a whole lot of difference because these boards will be mostly covered by the open doors. Speaking of doors. I thought the heavy doors would have rubbed against the header above the door. So I went back and sanded the sharp edge off the header.
Thanks for looking and any suggestions or comments are welcomed. Randy
brownbr
October 2022
Love the wood texture in the super close up.
EmeryJ
October 2022
Agree with Bryan, the up close pics really show how great of a job you did on this wood.
KKarns
October 2022
Excellent detail work on the wood Randy.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan, Emery, and Ken. I just followed Dr. Grunge’s advice. Going back to the basement now to work on another wall. Thanks again, Randy
kebmo
October 2022
i think the walls look outstanding…
TomMich
October 2022
Nice coloring and detailing on the wood.
Joel
October 2022
Great colour and texture. Really tells a story.
randyp
October 2022
Kevin, Tom, and Joel thank you. The wood was first stained, wiped with an old t-shirt, and then had some details added. I then stained it again with with gray chalk and alcohol.
This picture shows a piece of wood which has had the second stain. To me it looked to dark and some of the detail was lost in the darkness. I then took the t-shirt and scrubbed the wood very hard.
All the knots are now visible. Little grain is visible because I only used the fine brisel brush on this board. I hope to finish up the back wall tonight and post pictures tomorrow. again comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy
Karl.A
October 2022
Terrific work and progress Randy.
I’m also enjoying your detailed explanations of the various steps you took.
Keep up the great and informative posts. Thx
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Karl. Coming from you I consider your comments great prase. I consider your work top notch. Randy
brownbr
October 2022
That worked
admin
October 2022
Looks great, keep at it!
randyp
October 2022
Here is the back wall with siding. I will cut off the board ends when the glue dries. I did not spend too much time with making joints between boards. After the third and forth boards from the top I just used full boards. If this goes where I think it will on Rich’s layout the back wall will not be seen.
This speeded up the construction because I only had to detail the right end of the board. I have about half of the right end wall sided. I plan to finish that tonight along with the left gable end. Thanks and again any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
EmeryJ
October 2022
Looking real good Randy. Keep on keepin on.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan, Brett, and Emery. Always great to hear from all of you. Randy
KKarns
October 2022
Wall looks great Randy, the random saw banding adds some nice interest to the piece. You may want to clean up the window openings a bit! Hah!
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Ken, I will when I get all the walls finished. Speaking of finished walls, I finished the siding on the right end wall tonight. I took more time than I was expecting. I added more joints between boards, slicing sides off the boards, and detailing the ends of the boards. I have two pictures of the right end. The first picture is the wall just as I finished it. I deliberately made this side much more weathered. This side of the building is more exposed to the weather. There is little or no overhang so I added many more broken and cracked boards.
There are several glaring lite spots on the boards ends and sides. So I got out my trusty gray chalk and alcohol to try to tone town the lite colored areas.
I still may need to cover a few lite areas but for the most part I am happy with the color. And yes Ken, I will cut out the window openings when all the walls are finished. Thanks, again any comment and suggestions will be welcomed. Randy
ALCO
October 2022
Would someone please award this man the Dr. Grunge award for the month?
KKarns
October 2022
Well deserved!
TomMich
October 2022
Great texturing and weathering on the boards. color turned out very nice! The distressing and detailing of the boards is also nice!
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Alco and Ken, it was the look I was going for because it being an exposed wall. I just hope I did not take it to far. Randy
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Tom, as I said just above I hope I did not take it to far. Randy
admin
October 2022
ALCO said:
Would someone please award this man the Dr. Grunge award for the month?
KKarns said:
Well deserved!
WINNER! From Doc G. himself.
I don’t think you went too far at all. Going to look fantastic.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Brett I will be happy to take the complement. Well of to trim off the extra wood and do the left gable end. Thanks again, Randy
brownbr
October 2022
The extra work paid off.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan for the kind words. As I said last night I got some more done on the walls. In fact I now have all five walls finish. The first picture shows the gable end and the shed wall in the breezeway.
As you can see I just slapped the boards on the gable end. These boards will not be seen. The breezeway wall was made lighter in color and more brownish. Also I did very little distressing of the wood because the wall would not be exposed to the weather. The exception to that were the two boards at each end of the wall. I speculated that these two would get more weather from sun and rain blowing in the big open door of the breezeway. Now all five walls of the handcar repair shed are finished. Thanks and any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
KKarns
October 2022
Really nice Randy! Look forward to seeing these walls together, windows will really finish them off.
Karl.A
October 2022
Outstanding looking walls Randy, beautifully done.
Robert.G
October 2022
I will echo that !!!
MuddyCreekRR
October 2022
Like the coloration and details…great progress…
randyp
October 2022
Thank you Ken, Karl, and Robert for your kind comments. Randy
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Art, The walls and big door are finished. Now for the tedious but fun part of the build. I plan to do the primer on the details Thursday when it warms up to above sixty here in St. Louis. Maybe I will put the frames around the windows tonight. Randy
EmeryJ
October 2022
I am really liking the job you have done with the wood grain/texture/knots.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Emery, I have now added the window frames to the two walls and built the large door. IMG_1438resized
I probably spent too much time on the side of the door that will not be easily seen. I also put most all the details on sticks to be primed.
But as I said in Karl’s thread I will need to move the barrels into the group to items to be painted black. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for looking and any comments or suggestions will be welcomed. Thanks, Randy
KKarns
October 2022
No rules Randy, paint them as you like. Actually changing up the base coat will give a nice variety. Those walls look so good with the window frames.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Ken, I will try it the way Brett suggests and see how it works. If it doesn’t look good I will just repaint them with the khaki.
Karl.A
October 2022
Terrific work on the walls Randy, so good looking.
Can’t wait to see your results on the details.
Dang, you got some yellow castings by the look of your last pic, those suckers are super rare… you must be special… haha
Keep up the great posts and progress !!
MuddyCreekRR
October 2022
are those extra roof rafters too?..I’m going to need to scratchbuild the ones I’m going to need…
randyp
October 2022
Karl, nothing special just the luck of the draw. I plan to prime the castings tomorrow as it is going to be eighty. Warm enough not to be a problem with the spray cans. Yes Art, I asked Brett to cut some extra trusses so I could use purlins under the shake shingles and make the roof removable. Two trusses in the repair shed, and two in the .
breezeway.. Thanks for the comments and as usual all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Randy
randyp
October 2022
I have been doin g some work on the handcar repair shed. I primed the detail parts and the back side of the water tower base. I also sprayed the tissue paper with the flat black. I then added the tissue paper to the inside of the two end walls.followig
Brett’s instructions I ended up with this tar paper.
I would like your opinion about the color of the paper. to me it is a little two mottled. Maybe some dry brushed black paint or black chalk or just leave it alone. You will notice that I put the tarpaper up in the gable. Brett did not have that in the instructions but I thought that with the rafters being open the gables would need to be sealed from the weather also. To get the correct shape of paper with out a lot of trial and error I drew lines along the plans so I could use straight edge to cut the tar paper to shape.
That was done yesterday and last night.
randyp
October 2022
This afternoon I decided to do a little work on the resin castings for water tank base. When I started to fit them together I found there to be some gaps where the fingers fit together.
Now in this picture the three bottom and the top fingers of the back hit the “rocks” of the left side wall and cause a gap in the middle fingers. I know that Brett’s instructions tell us to fill in the gaps with a thin plaster mix. But these gaps seamed to large to fill easely with a watery plaster mixture. I used a small square file to deepen the one top and bottom three slots in the side wall.
After filing and test fitting numerous times I got things to fit to my satisfaction.
Brett’s instructions say to spray the base with Kills primer and then use the plaster to fill the spaces. I am wondering if when the base is painted or stained the plaster will take the color differently than the Kills. Might it be better to put the plaster in the cracks now and then spray both the plaster and resin together? I would like to hear your thoughts. As usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks, Randy
admin
October 2022
Kilz primer is specifically used (instead of white spray paint) as it takes the finish coloring and weathering on the cast resin stones the same as the plaster.
The manual never calls for “watery” plaster to fill the gaps that were mastered that way purposely. The manual calls for “soupy” plaster which will fill the gaps perfectly as shown in the manual. I caution anyone not to file the gaps as this could cause fit issues. Your walls look great but the re-fitting was unnecessary.
Karl.A
October 2022 edited October 2022
I carved the walls so that there is an intentional minute gap in the corners for ease of fitment and specifically so that there is room to add in the mortar so that the corners match the rest of the mortar lines throughout the rest of the walls.
Now that you have sanded them and you have the stones tight together there is no room for the mortar.
randyp
October 2022
OK Brett, I am glad for your input. I still worry plaster will take the colors at a different rate leaving light or dark areas where the plaster is. Would there be, in your opinion, Would it cause a problem to do the plaster first and then spray with Kilz? Thanks Randy
admin
October 2022
Either way will be fine, plaster first then Kilz will work too.
MuddyCreekRR
October 2022
Randy, I filled mine first, then primed. I ended up using a premixed patching plaster as I’ve had good luch with it before. I use a flat dental tool like a pointing tool to work the plaster into the crevase…smooth it but leave a bit to contour too. Let it set till it’s not quite cured and then take a soft brass brush and smooth out the joints and take the excess off the stone face…too much great texture to lose there. One done, use light coats of the kilz to prime. Let ir cure overnight before you paint the stones. My photos will be up tommorow night once I finish it.
randyp
October 2022
OK Brett and Karl thanks. Karl the walls are glued together yet. So I may go back and supper glue a small slice of wood in each of the notches. That should open them back up and allow for the mortar. I will let everyone know how it works. Thanks Randy
randyp
October 2022
Thanks for the advice Art. I will need to get the walls together first. Randy
Karl.A
October 2022 edited October 2022
MuddyCreekRR said:
Let it set till it’s not quite cured and then take a soft brass brush and smooth out the joints and take the excess off the stone face…too much great texture to lose there.
I’m not at that stage in my build process yet, but I have successfully used the same technique from the manual several times in the past.
I would NOT use a wire brush, soft or otherwise to remove any excess plaster from the stone faces. This may scratch or damage the resin surface, this could show up later after painting, especially in those close up photo’s we all love.
Simply wipe the corners with a soft damp cloth, this will clean the stone faces and also remove any excess plaster from the mortar lines, thereby recessing them so that they match the rest of the walls.
Simple, quick and easy.
Karl.A
October 2022 edited October 2022
As for your interior tar paper being too mottled, as you can see in my own thread I adjusted mine by carefully ‘painting’ on some A/I between the studs on just the tarpaper to dull the paper down and get the look I personally wanted.
Karl.A
October 2022 edited October 2022
randyp said:
… You will notice that I put the tarpaper up in the gable. Brett did not have that in the instructions…
Actually, that IS in the instructions… it is item ‘6’ on page 19 of the manual…
The Line reads
“Add tarpaper to the remaining walls and the truss if you plan on adding lights and/or making the roof removable.”
So, as you are making your roof removeable, the manual already had you covered.
ALCO
October 2022
Has the world gone mad? LOL
kebmo
October 2022
ca-razy i tell ya…
brownbr
October 2022
Coming together great.
randyp
October 2022
Thanks Bryan for your encouragement. Although, from Brett and Karls helpful comments I screwed up the rock walls. I am going to need to figure out how to correct my mistake. So in the meantime I went on to work on the tar paper and the detail castings. I took Karl’s advice and used a small brush and AI to tone down the mottled appearance of the end walls, and tar papered the two side walls.
Following that I started to work on the primed detail parts. I started with adding some AK lite, medium, and dark rust colors applied randomly to the 3D printed parts. I then allowed the parts to set for two days so the paint would cure.
This worked OK, however with the next set of castings I may go way back in time and use Folquil rust colors. Because even with the curing the rust paint came off with the alcohol and make up sponge method Brett suggests using on the 3D printed parts. I have done the gas tanks and a few barrels.
The three dard tank’s colors did not show up. Two are green and one is blue.
The two trash cans were painted with AK aged pewter, sponged, and lightly wire brushed. The two barrels are two toned blue and green and white. I am going to redo the stove casting as most of the rust came off. I will display some more painted detail parts in my net post. As always any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy
randyp
November 2022
Well back to the rock walls. After reading Brett’s and Karl’s comments about filing the notches on the pump house walls. I thought about adding thin pieces of styrene to recreate the gaps. One problem with this was not all the notches had gaps. This was apt to cause a chain reaction of other things I would need to change on down the line. So, I called Brett and talked to him. The long and short of it is that I ordered a new set of pump house walls. This set will not be filled.
Now with new walls in hand I can get back to work on the pump house. Here are the walls with the gap.
After I got all the walls glued together I mixed up some plaster to the consistency of whipping cream.
I used the black brush like a scoop to add small amounts of molding plaster to the water in the paint tray. I use molding plaster because it is much easier to clean out of the joints than Hydrocal. When I had the plaster to the consistency I wanted I used a wide flat brush to smooth the plaster on the corner joints of the pump house.
You will notice that the castings have not been sprayed with Kilz. I had this discussion with Brett and he assured me it did not matter which I did first. I did the plaster first for two reason. First it is easier to see the plaster on the colored castings than on the white kilz. The second reason is that I did not want to take any chance that the plaster and Kilz would take the stains differently. This way the entire surface is covered with Kilz and should take the stain evenly. After the plaster was on the joints I took a wet paper towel and wiped as much of the plaster off as I could.
After the wet towel I used a hobby knife with a broken point the chip the plaster from the mortar joints.
After cleaning up the plaster from the joints the front wall looks like this.
The walls were the sprayed with the Kilz.
I am going to let the Kilz cure for a few days before I try to stain the the walls. To that end I got back to painting shelf castings. This is just the start. I need to go back to add chalk to the castings to tone down the colors some more. I also want to use the AK weathering pencils to add some color and texture to the wood of the shelves.
I hope this clarified my mistake with my first set of walls. As usual all comments and suggestions to improve my construction of this model will be appreciated. Thanks Randy
KKarns
November 2022
Now you’re talking! Much better. Those shelves look great Randy, love the wood tones you achieved. Getting fun now isn’t it!
EmeryJ
November 2022
Now you are on track. This looks great!
admin
November 2022
AWESOME!
TomMich
November 2022
Great idea to do the Kilz spray after plastering the walls to have an even surface. The shelves turned out GREAT! Really like the coloring.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Ken, Emery, Brett, and Tom. Well I was going to do some more work on the shelves. But from your comments maybe I should just leave well enough alone. Thanks Randy
Karl.A
November 2022 edited November 2022
Great progress Randy, the walls are looking good and nice job with the corners.
Shelves are very nicely painted. It always amazes me that once we start painting Brett’s shelf castings more and more detail starts becoming evident.
Your base layers are well done and I look forward to enjoying your next steps and seeing them evolve.
brownbr
November 2022
Stonework looks good. The color on the cabinets looks great.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Karl, I look forward to adding some more details to the empty spots on the shelves. I will also probably add some watch parts from the stash I got when I was doing the truck repair kit to the shelves. I don’t plan to over do it you can get so much clutter it all mushes together.
Thanks Bryan, I am glad I got the new wall casting from Brett. Now I don’t need to worry about things not fitting on down the line because the walls were going to be just a little smaller than designed. Thanks, Randy
randyp
November 2022
I did a few more detail parts last night.
Also a few close ups of some of the parts. The one I like is the upside down wash tub. I wanted a galvanized metal look. The tub was primed black as usual then stippled with aged pewter leaving black showing through. Then I did it again lightly with silver. Then finishin g up with a few stipples of rust.
The hand cart was next.
I looked up pictures of Fordson and saw a green one from 1927 that looked good.
Then the old wagon wheel.
As I have said before the person that I am building these models for likes his beer. So I had to paint up some beer bottles. The paint was thickening as I brushed it on. So the those bumps and waves are condensation forming on the cold bottles. That is my story and I am sticking to it.
As always any and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
EmeryJ
November 2022
That is some fine looking paint jobs Randy!
randyp
November 2022
Thanks, Emery before I would just slap on a color and forget it. Now I am trying to do s little research and try to think through what nature would do to the paint job. Randy
KKarns
November 2022
Impressive detail work Randy!
gjdale
November 2022
Excellent paint work Randy - very convincing.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks, Ken and gjdale. I think it is the layering of the paint on the hand cart. I think there are four five different colors of paint on the cart. Thanks again, Randy
admin
November 2022
Your details look awesome. Nothing beats layering and you nailed it!
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Brett that means a lot comming from you. Randy
TomMich
November 2022
Nice job on those details! I especially like the wash tub.
ALCO
November 2022
Well done! Thanks for sharing.
brownbr
November 2022
Love all the details. Especially the hand truck. Layering the paint is always worth the time and effort.
randyp
November 2022
Tom, ALCO, and Bryan, Thanks for your comments. I did a few more last night, and will do some more tonight. There are such a lot of them to work on. Randy
Joel
November 2022
Looks great.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Joel,always nice to hear from you. Most of the detail parts are painted now. So I thought it was time to start adding a fews to the walls. The hinges were added to the big door. Weathered with chalk and alcohol glued in place and then some chalk powder was brushed on the wood to simulate rust washing down from the hinges.
I need to hit it with a little dull coat. I see a little shine from the epoxy. The inside of the left wall has the wood blocks for the drill and the locker.
More details to come. Any comments or suggestions are as always welcomed. Thanks, Randy
admin
November 2022
That door, superb!
KKarns
November 2022
Nicely done Randy! The hinges and door look terrific. That’s certainly one issue with Epoxy.
TomMich
November 2022
Like that door! The weathering on the wood is spot on. I especially like the saw marks.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Brett and Ken. I may try some gray chalk first. I don t want to destroy the rust effect on then wood. If that doesn’t work I will try to spray the dull coat on some plastic and then use a small brush to cover the epoxy gloss. I will let you know how it works. Thanks again, Randy
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Tom
Joel
November 2022
Fantastic rust on those hinges and the wood colour and texture is superb.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Joel, now if I can just git rid of the shine with out messing it up. Randy
Karl.A
November 2022
Looks fantastic Randy, very nicely done.
Spray some dulcote into a cap, use a small detail brush to just ‘paint’ it over the shiney spot.
and/or
use a small detail brush to ‘paint’ on some chalk/alcohol just on the shiney spot, use the same chalk as the wood colour.
Or use some black, and then use the detail brush again when dry to dust on a little rust colour.
Really nice progress so far.
MuddyCreekRR
November 2022
Excellent work on that door…the tone and coloration is great…love the rust effects too…
randyp
November 2022
Thanks, Karl and Art. Karl, it is nice to hear that my ideas about chalk and or dull coat brushed on are on the right track. Thanks, Randy
sdrees
November 2022
Looks great Randy. The weathering on the door is amazing
Wes
November 2022
Hi Randy.
I would never say this is your second SWSM kit. You work looks brilliant.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks, sdrees and Wes. Yes Wes it is my second SW kit. Now I used to model in HO and now I build in S/Sn3. I have built other kits and scratched built over the years. But never other kit with the instructions or details that Brett provides. Thanks for your comments. Randy
randyp
November 2022
I don’t seam to be getting along very fast with this build. But I guess that is all right I have until April to finish it. Better slow and take my time and not mess up to bad. I made corrections to the epoxy on the door last night and painted a few more castings. I went with my first thought as supported by Karl and used chalk and alcohol.
I think it came out looking fine with out messing up the over all appearance. I then painted the water cooler with sever colors of metallic paint. These were stippled on so they did completely cover the black of each other but blended together.
I ended with a little AK dark rust paint. Then did pretty much the same thing with three of the gas cans.
That is all for now. Again all suggestions, comments or criticisms are always welcomed. Thanks, Randy
Karl.A
November 2022 edited November 2022
Good save on the door Randy, blends nicely.
(I missed your original comment, but, glad you were thinking on the same lines and it worked out for you.)
Water cooler and gas cans look amazing. The intricate details on the water cooler that come out during/after painting are incredible.
You’ve done a great job on them all.
randyp
November 2022
Karl, thank you for your help and your kind comments. Brett did an amassing job 3D printing this detail. Randy
brownbr
November 2022
Love the door.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Bryan. It is a shame the door will be open and that sid will not be easely seen. Oh well I know it is there. Randy
randyp
November 2022 edited November 2022
I did some more on the barrels last night. The bands were colored with AK international weathering .pencils. The body of the barrel wan then dabbed with different wood colored chalks with a wet with water brush.
Thanks for looking and commenting. Randy
kebmo
November 2022
they look great. thanks for reminding me about the ak pencils. i’ve had them for a couple of years i think and i have never used them.
randyp
November 2022
Kevin I tried the pencils both wet and dry. for me the dry worked best. Good luck with them Randy
KKarns
November 2022
Well done Randy…they look the part!
brownbr
November 2022
How’d you like the weathering pencils? I’ve tried but haven’t mastered them yet.
randyp
November 2022 edited November 2022
Bryan I like them. I tried them wet but for me the work better dry. I used them on my truck repair. I make a mark and them use a wet rolled paper artis tool called a tortillons to feather the color out. I hope this helps. Thanks Ken for your nice words. Randy
kebmo
November 2022
tortillons
i have some! a). i thought they were called blunts or something like that, and b) i had no f*cking idea what they were for. thanks for the enlightenment! now if i still have them…
randyp
November 2022
Glad I could help Kevin.
randyp
November 2022
Last night and about an hour and a half tonight I spent getting an LED wired. I plan to put this in the light over the wall hand drill. The first picture shown the small size of the micro LED.
The point of a number eleven hobby knife blade give you some idea of how small the LED is. In fact I lost six of them on my workbench before I finely got this one wired. The second picture shown that it works.
Now this is too bright so I will add a 1.5 K resister to it to cut the brightness by at least half. I plan to bend a .018 inch tube to match the conduit of the 3D printed light Brett supplied with the kit. Hopefully I will be able to cut off the reflector and drill it out for the micro LED. I needed a break from working on details is why I did the work on tbe LED. After I got the light working I decided to add a few details to the inside of the left wall.
Thanks for looking and as always any comments, suggestion ,or criticisms are welcomed. Randy
Karl.A
November 2022
Looking great Randy,
amazing how bright that tiny LED is… (before you dull it down).
Nice start on the detailing, looking forward to seeing more.
brownbr
November 2022
The lights get easier to work with over time. You will get a system down that works for you.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Karl and Bryan. I know hat you mean Bryan. This last LED only took about fifteen minutes while I spent three or four hours getting to that point. Thanks again, Randy
Jim M
November 2022
Randy, great idea to light that over the drill press. It will really showcase that great detail. You’re doing a great job on this kit.
Soldering those LEDs is a pain. I use some strong double sided tape to hold the LED in place; it helps a bit. A small dab of Flux on the contacts and I apply a little solder. Tin the leads and then a quick application of the iron to solder the connection. I don’t know if it’s needed but I then apply a drop of CA over the solder joint sort of as insulation from shorting.
I hope this is helpful but you’ve obviously found a way forward too.
Keep up the good work.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Jim. The tip about the tape is one I will definitely make use of. I have been using Ngineering two clamp holding fixture. I worked great for the 2 X 3mm LED’s but these micro LED’s kept getting away from me. Thanks again for your help. Randy
randyp
November 2022
Well I guess I have taken off enough time for Thanksgiving. Looking at Karl’s and Art’s progress I am being a slow poke. I have been graining and staining wood for the floor and the tank platform. I did the wood for the floor in two batches. The first was done with the 408.3 and 408.5 chalks. This was for the floor inside the shed. For the rest of the wood I added a little black to the two brown colors. My reasoning was that the floor between the tank and shed would be more exposed to the weather and get more oil drops from the hand cars and equipment going in and out. The first picture shows a general view of the floor with my masters of scrap wood for the length of the floorboards. I would hold the board up to the master and cut the board a little longer and sand it on my Ultimation sander to the correct length.
The second picture is a little more close up of the floor. I tried to mix both long and short boards. I did not bother on the last four at the back because they will be covered by a shelf.
I will install the rail later when it is less likely to be caught on something and bent. Thanks for looking and any and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Karl.A
November 2022
Good progress Randy, and, great thought process behind it.
Colours are looking nice and grimy like a well used shop floor.
Looking forward to more.
MuddyCreekRR
November 2022
Like Karl stated the coloring looks like a used shop floor…looking good
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Karl and Art. Always enjoy reading your comments. Randy
Robert.G
November 2022
The floor has a really good base color for more weathering further in the building progress . Nice work..
brownbr
November 2022
Good start on the floors
admin
November 2022
Great job on the flooring color/texture. Very convincing.
Jeroen
November 2022
Another one of those awe inspiring builds. Great work Randy! The color of those boards is just awesome. I really dig the tones, hoping I can achieve that one day (not easy for a colorblind guy I must admit). Keep on posting, Im enjoying this immensely!
randyp
November 2022
Robert, Bryan, Brett, and Jeroen Thank you all for your kind comments. Jeroen, don’t worry, my son is also color blind and does a great job with his photography.
KKarns
November 2022
Nice and grungy looking Randy…that’s a good thing! Like the subtile difference in the two floor sections.
randyp
November 2022
Thanks Ken, That was my intention.
randyp
December 2022
I have had some other thing to work on so the only construction on the kit has been the tank platform. The bottom boards were done in browns because they would be covered by the top layer.
The top layer was weathered with black and white chalk and alcohol the same as the siding.
I plan to do the tank color some whare in between. Brownish on the top and a grayer color towards the bottom. Because of the tank roof overhang protecting the top part of the tank. Again all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Randy
Robert.G
December 2022
Just a small trick. If you would want to put in nail holes, best do them before coloring. That way the color gets into the holes and will emphasize them . Better than doing it afterwords. Well, that’s how I do it. Additional rust, if wanted, can always be added later.
Nice platform so far !!
Karl.A
December 2022
Looking good Randy, nice colours and variation so far, also neat and precise construction.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Robert, I did not plan to put in nail holes on the platform. But I will keep your excellent suggestion in mind for the future. Randy
TomMich
December 2022
Coming along nicely!
randyp
December 2022 edited December 2022
Thanks Karl and Tom I appreciate it. I set up both sides of the center wall last night. The only not glued in place are the ones setting on the floor.
When I glue thing to the floor I will straighten up the red oil can.
The inside of the wall also is not totally finished. I still need to glue the things to the floor and the bottom shelf. I did not leave enough space between the second and bottom shelf to put what I wanted to put on the bottom shelf.
Now a more side view showing the shelves better and the beautiful drill mounted on the wall. I still need to add the light and figure out how to run the wire for said light.
randyp
December 2022
Back last summer I mentaded that I had some thin cigar box cedar inserts. Karl suggested I set them out to weather. This is what they looked like in June.
They just about blew off the roof a few days ago when it was so windy here in St. Louis. So I took them down and I think they will now do for the shake shingles on the water tank and handcar repair shed roofs. What do the rest of you think? IMG_1581resized
Thanks for your input, Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Color looks good…are they brittle at all?
Karl.A
December 2022
They look quite good and grey to me, I said it wouldn’t take too long and be done.
You might need to wet them and set them under a pile of books/weights to flatten them out again.
You also might want to tone down those nail/screw heads a bit, they stand out too much…
randyp
December 2022
Art I have not handled the wood yet so I don’t know. I will let you know. Karl thanks for the suggestion about wetting them and putting them under weights. I though some light gray chalk in alcohol would town down the screw head. Thanks Randy
KKarns
December 2022
Great looking detailed scene Randy. The drill press is just ridiculous! That one shot looked like a washing machine in the back room!
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Ken, always good to hear a word praise from all the great modelers on this form.
I guess you are talking about the 123 block that shows up through the door. Thanks Randy
brownbr
December 2022
Nice color on the wood.
randyp
December 2022
If you are talking about the cedar it is all natural. Now all I need to do is get it grained and cut to size. Right now it is soaking in water and will be placed between sheets of paper and newspaper under weight to flatten out. Yes Art, it is brittle but I thing that will work to my advantage when cutting the shingles to width. Thanks, Randy
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
Cut the sheets into shingle width first, with(following) the grain, then cut those strips to shingle length.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Karl for the advise. I guess I should grane the sheets first before I cut them into strips. Thanks, Randy
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
I cut them into strips first and then treat them just as you would regular strip wood, graining a few at a time. If thats even needed.
That way you can get variations between the boards/strips, I find it more controllable to get different effects in specific boards and areas.
After that just follow the regular instructions and treat the strips like they are strip wood,
cut them to shingle length, weather and colour the ends..etc
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
Not many builds have real, naturally weathered, true cedar shingles… that’s something special.
CarlLaskey
December 2022
This will be a treat.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Karl, the wood is drying out between sheets of printer paper and newspaper under weights. I don’t know about that Carl but it will be an experience. Randy
randyp
December 2022
I am not quite ready to color the rock walls on the pump house. I did do a trial run on a an S scale Yorke kit I have. I used Liquitex artist acrylic paints to color the rocks on this model. I used yellow oxide, burnt sienna, raw umber,burnt umber and raw sienna for the colors. These are the same colors I use to stain the rock castings on my layout.
I would like to hear the opinion of the forum. Thanks Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
You are right to try and keep the stonework on your layout consistent as if that’s the color of stone in the ground…it doesn’t clash. I had planned to use mainly grey rock work on the layout, but I went with the browner earth tone on my pumphouse…so I will need to follow that scheme on the layout. I was hesitant to have the entire structure in grey tones…so that the way I went. No problem…I can mix in some grey here and there…I like your colors and tones…
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Art,I appreciate your input. Randy
KKarns
December 2022
The colors give a nice desert SW feel but applicable anywhere…
brownbr
December 2022
Reminds me of sandstone.
Karl.A
December 2022
Looking good Randy, same colours as what I use, but, I did stop using the yellow ochre many years ago as I felt it stood out from the others more than I liked.
A nice variation though.
randyp
December 2022
Ken,Bryan, and Karl thanks. Ken, My Layout is set in SW Colorado, Salida to Silverton so I am glad you think the colors are appropriate. Bryan, I was thinking more in the terms of granite. And Karl, I use the Burnt Sienna and Yellow Oxide sparingly and then gover all the surfaces with a light wash of Raw Umber tone everything down and darken the mortar lines. Thanks for your comments. Randy
Karl.A
December 2022
Well, maybe it will look different after you have done that then. It’s all about personal preference and of course things look different in person, that’s one of the beauties in this hobby.
I’m looking forward to the next update.
Joel
December 2022
Randy looks great. Love the interior. With stone walls I will usually dry brush a neutral light colour at the end to tone everything down and also highlight the stone detail. Not everyone does this but I find it helps unify the colours.
randyp
December 2022
Karl and Joel, I am not sure about the final color. The Kilz makes the paint thinned with water bead up. This is the back of the pump house which will not be seen.
I think I will try some wet water to mix the paint, on the next wall. This is hindering me in getting the color blending that I am use to with plaster.
I also did the wood for the tank. I colored the wood with 408.3 and 408.5 chalk and alcohol. then added some gray to the bottom end of the boards.
The tank bands were base painted black and the dabbed and brushed with dark, medium and light rust paint. Brett’s paper guides for the bands work like a charm. After the bands were glued to the tank I used some rust colored chalk dry brushed on the bands and below them to show rust washing down from the bands.
I am happy with the way the tank and bands turned out. As usual all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Randy they look really good…the varied tones of rust really make it look right…the evidence of rust on the boards below looks kool…Nice Job…
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
On the stone work…you could try using some chalk to get the coloration you are looking for…if you seal it with a workable chalk fixative…you can save the work you like…then continue to work the tones…
randyp
December 2022
Art would the workable chalk fixative be found at an art supply store? Thanks for your suggestion. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Yes…Hobby Lobby has it…as do most most craft store…just make sure it’s a chalk workable fixative…it will seal each level without discoloring…don’t skimp…buy the expensive stuff…it’s worth it…and it sets up fast…
brownbr
December 2022
I actually like the color variations you got on the stone. I think a unifying wash and drybrushing to blend will finish it. Then the mortar lines.
Bands on tank are wonderful.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks, Art for the information about the fixative. Thanks Bryan, I was rather happy with the way the bands turned out too. I will experiment around with the wall. That is why I did the back wall first. If all else fails another coat of Kilz will do the trick. Thanks again to both of you. Randy
Joel
December 2022
The tank looks great. I love the colouring on the bands. I think the colouring is a bit too intense for the stone work. May have to wash it off and start again although toning it down with chalk or dry brushing may bring the colours down enough to work.
TomMich
December 2022
Tank turned out very nice!
admin
December 2022
Great advice Joel!
KKarns
December 2022
Tank details look awesome Randy! The detail on those turnbuckles is amazing.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Joel, Brett, Tom, and Ken. I think I will try some chalk first. If that does not work I may try some plain white spray paint and start over. Anyway, I have put that aside and have started work on making the shingles. Here is the cigar box cedar wood brushed with the wire brush that is in the picture.
I then cut the sheet into strips with the grain the same width as the wood in the kit.
I then measured the length from Brett’s template and chopped enough shingles for the first layer.
This is the side that was totally exposed to the weather. The next picture is of the back side of a few shingles. This picture does not give the true color. They are grayer than they appear. The shingle to the top is the front gray side.
Now after I did this I got to thinking that the end of the shingle was to neet. So, I put the shingle overhanging a scrap of wood as shown at the top. Then I used the handle of a hobby knife to break off some of the end of the single. That is the results at the bottom. I am thinking about going back and cut the singles again a little longer and break off the excess. And do this with all the shingles for the entire water tank roof.
As usual thanks for looking and any comments or suggestions are welcome. Thanks Randy
Karl.A
December 2022
Good looking colour on those cedar sheets and good progress Randy.
I use the chopper to make the shingles… BUT…
set the length to what you require, lower the blade but DONT cut through, just enough to hold the strip in place.
then lift up the end of the strip and snap to length to get the jagged edge.
It takes the same time as using the chopper normally so it’s just as quick but you get the nice uneven end. Win/win.
The reason to use kilz is that it is more porous and easily stainable and mimics the plaster when using thinned acrylic paint on top. Regular white spray paint won’t accept the thinned paint as easily.
Looking forward to seeing more.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Karl for the tip about the shingles. I will be sure to give that a try. About the Kilz when I use the Artis Acrylics the thinned paint beads up. I need to use a thicker layer of paint and this makes the colors much more intense than I like. I have a Tamiya white fine Surface Primer. When I used it under acrylics on some figures and some of the details on my truck repair it worked great. Thanks again for your guidance. You are always a great help. Randy
randyp
December 2022
Karl, Here are some of the shingles on the tank following your suggestion about holding the strip down with the chopper and breaking the strip off.
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
They look really good…I didn’t distress mine as much as I wanted to…may go back and fiddle with them…Love the edges…and the tones are perfect…
brownbr
December 2022
Shingle color is great.
kebmo
December 2022
the tank looks perfect. nice work.
admin
December 2022
great start!
KKarns
December 2022
Shingles are looking fantastic with the coloring spot on.
TomMich
December 2022
Shingles are very nice! Like the coloring.
randyp
December 2022 edited December 2022
Thanks everyone for the nice comments. I can not take credit for the color. That is all Mother Nature. Randy
kebmo
December 2022
randyp said:
Thanks everyone for the nice comments. I can not take credit for the color. That is all Mother Nature. Randy
i remember when you did that experiment. how long did you leave it on your roof?
randyp
December 2022
Kevin, the cedar was on the roof from June to just last week. That seemed to do the trick. Randy
brownbr
December 2022
I wonder what a bundle of stripwood would look like after 6 months outdoors…
CarlLaskey
December 2022
Wet wood…
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
randyp said:
Karl, Here are some of the shingles on the tank following your suggestion about holding the strip down with the chopper and breaking the strip off.
Looking good so far, a slightly uneven edge with some random splits and breaks. Just enough to look aged and weathered but not overly apparent so as to be cartoonish.
Colour variation is also showing up very nicely.
randyp
December 2022
I did read once of a person doing that with stripwood for a project. He figured out how much wood he would need. Of course he came up short of the wood he needed. Murfey strikes again. Randy
randyp
December 2022
Here is another layer of shingles.
EmeryJ
December 2022
Almost there Randy. Lots and lots of shingles.
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Make sure you follow the template…they get thinner as they go to the top…that was my mistake…
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Emery and Art. Yes Art I saw that and am using it now. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Otherwise you would have ended up like me…ready to throw it out the window…I caught it in time to fix…always read Brett’s manuals…
Joel
December 2022
Love the natural colouring and variation in the shingles. Looks great.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Joel it is natural. I am almost finished with the roof. Randy
Karl.A
December 2022
randyp said:
Thanks Emery and Art. Yes Art I saw that and am using it now. Randy
Looking great, Randy, love the colours.
Keep those offcuts as you are shaping the shingles, they make great ‘scrap wood’ to scatter around and/or put in the empty 55 drums.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Karl I have most of them. Randy
randyp
December 2022
Well, I finished the shingles on the tank roof tonight. I still need to do the flashing and the fenial. I tried to get the shingles flat and overlapping the seams between the shingles as much as posable. A picture from the top and then one from the side with it on top of the tank.
Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and suggestion are welcome. Happy Holidays to all and to all a good night. Randy
brownbr
December 2022
Nice job getting them to all line up at the top.
kebmo
December 2022
color of everythihg is excellent!
Jim M
December 2022
Your water tower tank looks great. Your best work I think.
KKarns
December 2022
Beautifully done Randy! Love the color tones and the fit and finish are executed perfectly.
admin
December 2022
Randy! Outstanding, very well done.
TomMich
December 2022
Great coloring on the shingles! Layout of them is very good.
randyp
December 2022 edited December 2022
Thanks, Bryan, Kevin, Jim, Ken, Brett, and Tom for all of your nice comments. I tried my best because it will be so visible. Thanks again, Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
The coloration and texture is really good…
mikemettelka
December 2022
That came together nicely!
randyp
December 2022
Thank you Art and Mike.
Dave_S
December 2022
Randy,
Like the other members who have responded I am enjoying and learning from your well illustrated and instructive build of Kit #315, The Water Tank and Handcar Repair Shed.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
EmeryJ
December 2022
Randy, the roof came out extremely nice. Be proud of that.
Karl.A
December 2022
Fantastic result, very well done.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Dave, Emery, and Karl for your kind and encouraging comments. We had family in town over the holidays so I did not get very much done. Thanks again, Randy
randyp
December 2022
What I did get done over the holidays I just some fill in work. I am waiting for something to be sent to me before I can put the walls together and instal them on the floor. That should be sometime in January.Here are the front and back of some pallets I just finished.
I wanted them to be well used and weathered.Also I am planning to skip the cardboard roof supplied with the kit and replace it with perlans. I read somewhere that shake shingles should have about one third exposed. So the thirty inch shingles that brett has us use would need about ten inches exposure. So I mocked up some perlans using one eighth by .020 wood and some of my cedar shingles.
The perlins are about a scale six inches apart. I propped up the bottom edge of the shingles with some scrap shingle from the tank roof build. I then added rows two and three.
after looking at the picture I see that the second row should have been moved down about four scale inches. The exposure of the second and third rows I think looks better than the first and second rows I will be sure to get that right when I work on the real roof. As always thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Randy
CarlLaskey
December 2022
Randy.
The normal is 5 inches to the weather having a older home I replaced the roof.at that spacing.
kebmo
December 2022
CarlLaskey said:
Randy.
The normal is 5 inches to the weather having a older home I replaced the roof.at that spacing.
that’s great to know for the future. thanks bud.
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
The spacing is dependent on the size (length) of the shingles, I think more around only 25% reveal to be sealed correctly.
24" shingles would have a 6" reveal, 18" shingles would have a 4.5" reveal.
The bottom of the third row needs to overlap the top of the first row, and so on up through the roof, thus closing any direct gaps for water to pass through.
However, it doesn’t rain in my hobby room so as long as it looks good to my eye, I’m good with it and dont worry too much.
Karl.A
December 2022
If you want to get really deep into it …
Dont worry so much about the measurements, as shingles vary, but think more about the process and placement.
Karl.A
December 2022
The pallets look awesome, really nice work on those…
I’m going to need to put a little more effort into some of mine in the future.
Really nice work.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Carl, five inches on a model I feel is over kill. I will most likely go with eight to ten inches to the weather. You are correct Kevin Carl’s and Karl’s input will be a help both now and in the future. Great diagram you attached Karl. I don’t think I will fool with felt under the shingles. A lean-to shed on the farm I grew up on had a shake shingle roof with no underlayment. Just the shingles nailed to the perlans. I like the looks of the exposuer on the second and third rows. If I moved both second and third row down then the bottom of the third row would overlap the top of the first row as you suggested. Thanks for your complement on the pallets. I had fun getting them that grunged up. Thanks all, Randy
Karl.A
December 2022 edited December 2022
Yeah, the underlay is a more modern thing, I’ve never seen it on an ‘original’ old structure, the diagram was more to show the shingle placement.
Indeed, your second and third rows exposure looks just right, to me too.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Karl, for your input. I am trying to do the best that can on this model. And all of this groups comments and support is a great help. Thanks, Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Older style wood shingle roofs would not have had a felt underlayment…they were open to the bottom as to dry the shingles…the overlap and swelling of the shingles during rainfall kept the rain out…
brownbr
December 2022
Nice job on the pallets
KKarns
December 2022
Love the pallet collection you worked up Randy.
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Art, Bryan, and Ken. Your input is always welcome. Randy
TomMich
December 2022
Like those pallets. Wish there were a template for them in HO.
EmeryJ
December 2022
Excellent batch of pallets!
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Tom and Emery. Yes Tom the jig from Brett is a great little time saver. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
December 2022
Staining on the pallets is another detail…you can add oil stains, rust outlines from an old machine that was once on the pallet…even metal strapping remnants…I’ll post a few photos later once I get home…as Brett always says…the little scenes can tell a great story…
randyp
December 2022
Thanks Art, I am looking forward to see what you are talking about. Randy
Joel
January 2023
Nice pallets Randy and a fantastic job on the roof.
admin
January 2023
Love those pallets!
randyp
January 2023
Thanks Joel and Brett.
It has been a while since I posted any pictures. Due to the holidays I have not got much workbench time in on the handcar shed. My latest project has been the handcar itself. In Karl’s build he said he simulated carriage bolts on the decking. I decided I wanted to try to take that a step further. I got this idea from PBL truss rods on their car kits. Take monofilament fishing line and melt the end with a soldering iron. Thread the line through the turnbuckle until the melted fishing line stopped. Do the same for the other end of the turnbuckle. That would leave the the middle of the turnbuckle empty so a board could be threaded through the two buckles on one side of the car. So I decided to try this for bolt heads The first picture was my first attempt. I was not happy as many of the bolt heads were too big.
So back to the drawing board.
Here is the fishing line held up close to the soldering iron. Notice the end of the line is starting to swell. I drilled holes through the wood with a # 77 drill and threaded the fishing line through. Painted the swelling, added a little ACC and pulled the swelling up tight to the board. I added four “bolts” to each of the long boards and two for each short board. Here is my second try with the bolts on the decking.
It also looks like I need to pop off the bottom old board and square it up. I think the bolts look much better this size. I went with a green and rust color over the black primer with my handcar.
Above is the side frame with the two wheels. Below is the side where one wheel has been removed.
This end view shows the two older boards that were not “replaced” as they were still in good shape. The other old boards were also left because being close the pump handle they did not get as much wear and damage as the outside boards. The pump handle were painted a light tan and then lightly brushed with a dark color to simulate the use by dirty and oily hands.
The bolts in the new boards were painted with oily steel. The old boards bolts were painted with dark rust. Thanks for looking, and as usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
kebmo
January 2023
what an excellent idea.
damn rivet counter…
Karl.A
January 2023
Interesting idea Randy, it’s coming together well.
Ha Kev !
KKarns
January 2023
That handcar is such a wonderful detail.
EmeryJ
January 2023
That it is! Super nice detail job on this.
admin
January 2023
Excellent build of the handcar! Love the creativity in these builds.
randyp
January 2023
Thanks Kevin, I think. Karl, Not my ideal just applied in a different way. Thanks Emery and Ken, I need to add some of Brett’s detail parts on top and figure out where it is going so it can be seen. Brett it does seem that everyone adds just a little different twist to their build. Thanks again, Randy
Karl.A
January 2023
Yeah, the ‘smoosh’ is hard to control Randy, especially in something so small and in such a close up pic. I try to use something cooler than a soldering iron, but even then, the consistency is still the hardest thing to get, consistent, ha.
Great work so far.
randyp
January 2023
Thanks Karl. I am at a bit of a standstill until I can get a template for the area that the building is going to go on Riche’s layout.Then I can start glueing things down. Thanks again, Randy
Karl.A
January 2023
Rich is definitely a lucky guy to have you building these structures for him so excellently.
I sure hope he sends you that footprint soon so that we can get another update.
Joel
January 2023
The handcart is quite nice. Great detailing. I particularly like the peeling green pain with the rust showing through
TomMich
January 2023
Nice detail! I like the color and weathering of the hand car itself.
brownbr
January 2023
Nice paint finish on the sides and wood color on the deck.
randyp
January 2023
I am still waiting for Rich to get me a template of the area to put the handcar shed and water tank. I was going to get today But he took off for Amherst this morning. If any of you are at the Amherst train show this weekend stop by Berkshire Valley’s table and say hi to Rich and Donna for me. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
January 2023
I’ll be in Springfield at the show on Saturday
randyp
January 2023
While I have not been working much on the structure itself I have not been idle. If you followed my truck repair build you may remember that I like to use real glass in the windows. So here are a few pictures of my process. It is not shown but when I work with glass I always wear latex exam gloves. This keeps finger prints off the glass. For the small two pain windows I cut the glass to width first then lay the window frame over the glass and cut the glass to size.
You will notice that I covered only one of the openings. I cut separate pains of glass. That way if I want a broken window one side can be broken without disturbing the other. I then put some dotts of ACC on the frame.
This frame was for one of the pumphouse windows. I then set a larger pain of glass on the frame and let the glue set. One advantage of using real glass is if glue gets out on the open part of the glass it can be scraped off with the point of a hobby knife. I then turned the window frame over and scored along the side of the frame.
This picture shows the glass along side of the window that I just scored broken off.
I finished all of the other windows in the same manner. So, now all the windows are glazed and ready to install. Thanks for looking and as always all comments and suggestion are welcomed. Randy
randyp
January 2023
Hi, Art. Rich is person I built the truck repair for and am building the water tank for. Be sure to stop and say hi from me. Randy
randyp
January 2023
I have not been making to much progress on the water tank and handcar shed. Just adding a few more detail parts to the shelves and trying to get lighting on the center wall. Another thing I have been doing while I wait for Rich to get back from Amherst, is to precut a batch of shingles. I first started by measuring and cutting a strip of cader to width, one strip at a time. This took a lot of time. Then I remembered I had a NWSL Dupli-Cutter in a drawer. I dug it out and set it up.
You can see the sheet of cader sticking out of the top of the Dupli-Cutter. Just slide it down to the stop and slice off a strip of cader. No more measuring, much faster. Then put the strip under a chopper blade and break it off at the blade as Karl suggested. I now have quit a few shingles cut and reddy to set in place.
As you can see a lot of the shingles have a rough uneven end which I hope will add a lot of character to the roof. Thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Karl.A
January 2023 edited January 2023
Those shingles look great Randy, such natural variation in colour tones and the texture is wonderful.
The dupli-cutter looks very useful. I’ve been using a paper guillotine in much the same way for many years.
Tip: I have several sheets marked with various common dimensions such as 6, 8, 10 and 12" incremental lines. I tape the one I need to the bed and then move the sheet stock one line at a time for quick and consistent width strips.
Thought: As you have the wonderfully aged tones on one side and the new natural colour on the other side you could add a repair patch as I did on this old scratch build from many years ago, (2009).
These were also real cedar shingles from a cigar box…
randyp
January 2023
Thanks Karl for your suggestions. The shingles on your building look very real. I like the idea of adding a patch on the handcar shed. Thanks for showing me an example. The pile of shingles is make up of strips from five or six different cader sheets that aged differently. I just hope I do not come up with a checker board look. Thanks again Karl. Randy
Karl.A
January 2023 edited February 2023
If it looks a little ‘harsh’ in the raw, a VERY light dusting of medium grey chalk will blend everything together nicely.
Just to dull that stark contrast (if there even is any).
Dip a make-up ‘blusher’ brush (which is very soft and quite wide) in the chalk, knock all the chalk off the brush and then wipe it vertically to very subtly dull the transitions.
Karl.A
January 2023 edited January 2023
Don’t borrow your wife’s “blush/rouge” brush, she wont appreciate it.
Get a cheap set from the ‘Dollar Store’ for about $3.99.
randyp
January 2023
Karl, Your input and suggestions are always a great help to me. I appreciate your help with my build. Your a fantastic modeler. Randy
randyp
January 2023
The last night or two I have been playing with a light over the hand drill press on the center wall. After running the magnet wire through a .025 inch tube I bent it to form the light bracket. I also used the same size tupe to form a conduit for the wire up the wall. I also added a piece of work on the drill press with a C-clamp to hold it in place. The shelf on the wall is new. With it’s green bottle and oil bottle for lubricating the drill and work. The bottom shelf on the locker got a lunch box and a can of paint with a wire bail. The three pictures that follow are from the left, center, and right. As always any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Karl.A
January 2023
Fantastic Randy.
gjdale
January 2023 edited January 2023
That is amazing Randy - if not for the modelling mat in the background of the pictures, I would swear I was looking at the real thing!
Grant
KKarns
January 2023
Nice detail Randy.
Jim M
January 2023
Great job with the lighting. That will help highlight a great little scene.
randyp
January 2023
Thank you Karl, Grant, and Ken I appreciate your kind words. This has been a fun project so far. I still need to add the signs and the calendar. Randy
kebmo
January 2023
excellent!!
mikemettelka
January 2023
That’s a great idea
brownbr
January 2023
Great scene. I really like the conduit coming down the wall
vietnamseabee
January 2023
Very nice, Randy
Terry
MuddyCreekRR
January 2023 75.192.176.255
Very kool…I like the conduit
randyp
January 2023
Thanks Kevin, Mike, Bryan, Terry, and Art for the kind words. Rich is back in town and I should get the foor print for the structure tomorrow. Then I get a start on glueing everything down. Thanks again. Randy
Karl.A
January 2023
Exciting news Randy.
Joel
February 2023
Really nice work.
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Joel, after following your Truck repair build I appreciate your comment. Randy
TomMich
February 2023
Nice use of task lighting over the drill
Dave_S
February 2023
Randy,
I really like the placement of Brett’s great new 3D drill detail and how you have highlighted it with an illuminated overhead light. Neat, neat, neat!!!
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Tom and Dave. Brett suppled a very nice casting with the kit. I just wanted to be different and add a real light. I am happy you liked the results. Randy
randyp
February 2023 edited February 2023
You have probably noticed that I have not posted a lot lately about the buildings in the water tank and handcar shed kit. The buildings were sort of at a stand still for a time. That was because back in December I ordered from Brett another center wall and the wood to cover it. I did this because I wanted to seperate the shed and the water tank. Brett, said that it would be January before he could get that done. So, I got the new center wall frame and wood in the middle of January. Grained and stained the wood and the added the siding to the frame.
I also added about two scale feet to the breezeway floor. Then two wing walls were scratch built to inclose the left end of the breezeway.
One more thing needed to be done before I can lay every thing out and that is take the mocel to Rich’s and set it out on his layout where he wants to instal the tank and building. Here is a picture showing the tank and building in about the the placement I am thinking of using. The end and wing wall are just set up temporarily to get a better idea of the over all effect.
The big open door is going to be turned away from the track. That will give a better view of the details inside. My thought is that the handcar under repair will be set up between the tank and the shed.
randyp
February 2023
The other side of the tank and building can be seen from around the corner of the layout and looking under the bridge.
There will be some room for details between the buildings and the track but not much. Most of the detail will be in front and to the ends of the tank and shed. You may notice that the back side of the tank is stained. If you remember back a few pages I was having problems with the getting the color I liked. The only thing I have done to this coloring is to brush on a coat of 408.3 chalk. Looking at the next picture with the tank base held up against some of Rich’s scenery I think will go on and finish the coloring the rest of the tank base the same way.
The important part was that Rich liked the color so who am I to argue with the layout owner. Sorry for the two posts but I hit the wrong button on the first one. Again please feel free to comment and make suggestions. Thanks for your input and help. Randy
TomMich
February 2023
Wood walls turned out really nice! Coloring, textures and weathering are well done. I like the way you are personalizing your build.
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Tom, I am building it for another modeler and the place he wants installed on his layout. I need to make it fit where he wants it. Thanks for your kind words about the color and texture. Randy
brownbr
February 2023
Glad you are back at it. I like the extra wall. Had considered doing that myself.
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Bryan, Brett was very accommodating and economical when I asked him to cut the extra wall. Of course, I would expect nothing less of Brett. He is always willing to help in any way he can. Randy
KKarns
February 2023
Looking great Randy…and that’s a lucky modeler!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Ken, Rich is a fantastic modeler. I hope he likes what I am building for him.
Some of the following pictures may be a little out of chronological order. The first picture is the last one taken. I wanted to show the handcar repair shed with all the walls inplace glued to the floor.
That shelf by its self is looking very lonely. I will need to dig into my stash of detail parts to keep it company. Now for a look at the inside of the workshop. First the wall with the locker.
It looks like I need to add a little chalk to the top of the sign with the bottle. The joys of digital photos. Next is the shelves along the back wall of the shop.
Another shot of those same shelves with the most of the right end wall showing. Now a better shot of the right end wall.
As I have said before Rich does like his beer. Not counting the bottles in the crate or the basket on the shelf How many single beer bottles are setting around the workshop?
I have not installed the stove yet but it is ready. I did not want the Fire Marshal and shut the workshop down as a fire hazard. So Art I put some bricks under the stove. I looked up 1/48 scale bricks on the internet.
I got these from a site for a company in Europe. I glued the bricks to a piece of paper. Let the glue dry and the cut the paper away. It looks like it was good thing the bricks were there because a chuck of partially burnt wood laying in front of the stove.
I tried to paint the coffee pot to represent an old blue graniteware pot. Well that about brings me up to date with my build. I am going to try to install the trusses to the ridge board tonight. I may also get a few of the perlans glued to the removeable trusses. I also need to add lights in both parts of the building and outside each end. If you have any comments or suggestions on something I could do better please feel free to let me know Thanks for looking. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023
Like the looks of the stove and bricks…nice edges on them…the bricks look like the same ones I got…
brownbr
February 2023
It’s a nice look with the walls together.
TomMich
February 2023
Great work!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Art, Bryan, and Tom, I am trying.
KKarns
February 2023
Really coming together Randy. Detail finish and placement look great!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Ken, for your encouraging words and support.
randyp
February 2023
The last two nights I installed the ridge board, the trusses, and half of the purlins. To make things work and have an overhang on the front and back of the roof I sanded off the notch on each end of the truss. This allowed the truss to fit down between the front and back walls. I glued the trusses to the ridge board.
I then glued 1/16 inch square basswood to the top of the trusses to create an overhang.
I then added the first perlan to the rafter ends.
Using a scale 2X4 for a spacer I added the rest of the purlins for the back side of the roof. I added an second perlan at the peak of the roof because the spacing did not come out just right and there would have been a gap.
The open space is where I will build the frame for the rear roof vent hatch. I think tonight I will add the perlans to the front of the roof and build the frames for the vent hatches. Thanks for looking and as always all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
kebmo
February 2023
lookin’ good! i love the gray tone you got.
KKarns
February 2023
Great progress Randy. fun stage of the build where things really begin to look like something!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Kevin are you talking about the siding or the perlins? The perlans are actually brownish. I used 408.5 chalk with a very little 408.3. I agree Ken It is nice to see it lookin g like a building as opposed just a bunch of sticks. Thanks, Randy
brownbr
February 2023
I like it.
kebmo
February 2023
the purlins. they look pretty gray on my screen (which means nothing i guess).
admin
February 2023
Great update Randy! Purlins look wonderful.
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023
Looking great Randy…digging the roof substructure…
randyp
February 2023
Kevin, I guess the lighter wood with a few streaks of the darker brown may give that impression. Bryan and Brett, thanks, got the other side finished last night.,Art, I had to do it that way otherwise the intermediate trusses would have been higher than the gable ends. The 1/16’s added on top provided nice rafter ends for the overhang. Randy
randyp
February 2023
As I stated in the above post I got the other side of the roof’s purlins installed The other night.
Randy
KKarns
February 2023
Now that looks the part!
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023
Doing shingles, or board and batten…or slate perchance…
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Ken, That is what I was trying for. Art it will be shake shingles on purlins. I will have pictures later on tonight. Randy
randyp
February 2023
Here are the first and second rows of shingles.
The colors look more uniform in the picture than the do in real life. Do you think the ends of the shingles are to uneven? Thanks for your comments. Randy
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023
I think the look is perfect…
kebmo
February 2023
me too
admin
February 2023
Love it, be sure to clean the cut, exposed edges up a bit. Uneven is good but some of the edges look like they were cut with a dull blade or not cut all the way thru and are frayed a bit too much.
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Art and Kevin. Ok Brett I wil go back and use a hobby knife wo trim off most of the small splinters. Thanks for the comments. Randy
Joel
February 2023
Great colouring on all the wood. The shingles are great!
Karl.A
February 2023
As usual, I’ll agree with Brett,
I usually rub my fingertip along the ‘broken’ edge to remove any overly large splinters but still leave the rough edge.
There’s usually one oversized ‘splinter’ at the break of each, but it takes no time to rub them off as you are laying.
Looking great so far.
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023
I need to read and look at the photos with my glasses on more often…I didn’t initially see the splinters…Karl has a great method of partly cutting thru with the blade then snapping up to get a rough edge. Shingles in real life are sliced off with a bit of a slope…the thicker dimension on the bottom as the shingle is applied…we can’t do that with stripwood…and that edge is crisp from the saw when new…as they age and weather…they “breakdown” to a rough texture…Backwoods cut shingles as Brett refers to may have uneven cuts…I normally apply my shingles a bit “weathered”…then work them once glued down and cured a bit with a #11 blade…or an pointy dental tool to “rough” up the edges…then finish with a brass brush a bit more to texture the shingle’s further…remember to touch up with some chalk and alcohol to avoid tone differences…
KKarns
February 2023
Look forward to seeing the roof work progress Randy. Has that backwoods feel already!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Joel, Karl, Art, and Ken. Art I did use Karls method of holding the wood down with the chopper blade and breaking the wood upward. I have goon back and used the back of a #11 blade to scrape off most of the fuzzies.
Looks like I need to go back with the #11 blade and do a little more work. The stove was a relative recent addition to the repair shed. So I used the back side of some shingles to note a new addition.
KKarns
February 2023
Coming along great Randy. Nice detail on the less weathered shakes at the recent stove addition.
randyp
February 2023
Looks like I hit the wrong button again and posted before I was finished. The final picture is of this side of the “finished” roof.
A question of the forum. Should I add another course of shorter shingles to the top before I add the metal ridge cap? I am thinking that that last row of shingles is a little to big. Yes I do plan to use a metal ridge cap. The two pieces are left over from the truck repair kit. As always any comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Ken, I got that Idea from Karl. So nice to have input from the fantastic modelers on this forum. Randy
Karl.A
February 2023 edited March 2023
Some great progress here Randy, that last shot of the roof looks fantastic, and the small newer area definitely adds a little story and even more interest. Very well done.
As for your question on the top row, yes, I always add a final shorter row in keeping with the reveal of the rest of the roof.
Meaning, add a final row with the same reveal as the rest of the roof and then cut off the overhang flush with the ridgeline.
The reveal and overlap is what would keep it watertight IRL, it also makes the roof look much better and uniform, a long length top row of shingles always seems to make a roof look unfinished and uneven to my eye.
Although your ridge cap is very close to where the final reveal would be I would still add a final row, it will be visible in quite a few places and the uneven edge will lead nicely up to and under the ridge cap, I think it will look better IMO.
A little nugget of info:
Shingles were cut in a mill, either permanent or temporary, and therefore their lengths would all be equal due to the machinery that cuts the ‘rounds’ that the bolts and then the shingles were cut from.
ie: the machine would be set to cut 24"(or 18") rounds out of a log. These rounds would be split into bolts and then fed to the sawyers on the shingle cutting machines. This results in all of the shingles being exactly the same length (24"/18"), although width varies.
Shakes are cut and split by hand, the logs are cut into rounds by hand, split by hand into bolts and then the bolts are split into ‘shakes’ by hand.
That is why a shake roof is much more uneven (and interesting) than a shingle roof.
And, that’s the difference between shakes and shingles, AFAIK
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Karl for your complements. I am glad you think another course of shakes is called for. I was leaning in that direction. The background difference between shakes and shingles is a great addition to my knowledge. Thanks again, Randy
brownbr
February 2023
It’s turning out great. I’d go with 1 more course before the ridge cap.
kebmo
February 2023
that roof looks fantastic, but it definitely needs another course of shingles. I would probably cut the shingles to length before installing them. to me, cutting them after they’ve been installed invites disaster. lol
randyp
February 2023
Bryan and Kevin, thanks for your kind words of praise and the suggestion. I have decided I will add another course of shakes before the ridge cap. Kevin I will cut the shakes shorter before installing. Cutting after installed, I feel, would result in to even of an edge. Thanks again. Randy
Karl.A
February 2023 edited February 2023
I hear you both on the ‘invites disaster’ scenario, and I agree its good to cut them roughly to length before applying, which I also do.
Some straight edge clippers to finish off the ridge line is what I personally use to even things out after they are applied and dried, and then after that, the ridge cap will hide any slight remaining variations at the peak.
randyp
February 2023
Karl I used my Ultamation slicer to break off the shorter shakes before I glued them to the peak of the roof. I also added a few more “new” shakes above the stove pipe. I think when I center the ridge covers a little more of the last course pf shakes will be more visible than this picture shows.
Thanks for the comments and help with the shakes. Randy
Karl.A
February 2023
Yeah! That looks perfect Randy!
Like I said previously, the ridge cap is just the right length for the reveal but, that extra tiny dimension underneath really makes a difference and those uneven edges peaking out really make a big difference, even for such a small amount.
That really looks superb and just as I thought it would. All that layering, depth and dimensionality looks just perfect.
Very nicely done indeed. Awesome.
brownbr
February 2023
It looks good with the last course peeking out from under the ridge cap. What did you use for the ridge cap?
MuddyCreekRR
February 2023 edited February 2023
I was going to use the same metal roofing for my ridge cap…but I went with just plain paper…thickness was right…I just painted with an aged silver matte paint…dusted it with some chalk just before it totally dried…then used a standard wood glue to get it to form to the roof… I cut it down to scale 8’ lengths…
TomMich
February 2023
Roof looks very good!
randyp
February 2023
Thanks Karl I like the results. A little more of the shakes will be exposed when the ridge cap is centered. The glue has warped the purlins up at both ends. It is under weight now. If that does not work by itself I may need to spray a little water on the roof and weight it again. Bryan, the ridge cap is left over standing seam roofing Brett included in his truck repair for the ridge cap in that kit. I cut the seams off each side and left the one in the middle at the top of the ridge. Art, You did a great job on the color on your ridge cap. Last night I cut the pieces to make the cap. I then used PC board etchant to weather and blacken them. I will rust them with chalk after they are installed. That way a little “rust” will wash down on to the shakes. Thanks Tom, I am happy with it so far. A lot of work but worth the effort. Randy
randyp
February 2023
Last night I started shakes for the other side of the roof. I broke them off and then touched the end with gray chalk and alcohol. I set them aside to dry then wiped with a soft cloth to blend in the chalk.
I then added the first course of shakes.
I only did the one course because I wanted the glue to dry and set up under a weight to hopefully keep it from warping like the other side. As always comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
randyp
March 2023
I have put two more courses of shingles on the second side of the roof and will show them to you tonight. I skipped a few days of work due to cataract surgery last Thursday. Now I hope I will be able to see the mistakes I make easier. I am adding lights to the workshop. I would like your opinion as to what I should end up with. The first picture is the light I have already installed over the drill press.
The Second Picture has only the overhead light about overtop of the stove.
The last picture has both lights lit.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Randy
MuddyCreekRR
March 2023
The light over the drill would be used at any time of the day or night to light up the work going on at the drill…the other light could argue for the same…definitely would need it at night…the rafter mounted light looks bit bright…glaring against that back cabinet in the last photo…but not as much as the second…
randyp
March 2023
Thanks Art for your observations. Maybe I could add a little paint to the LED to town down the brightness? Randy
KKarns
March 2023
Well on your way Randy, looks wonderful. Lighting adds a whole new dimension to a build.
brownbr
March 2023
I like way the light above the stove lights up the whole interior but agree that it would might look better just a bit higher so the doorframe blocked the bare bulb. I’ve installed lights without a shade before and will be doin it on this build also. I glue them to the wall facing the viewer with the light facing into the structure. It lights up the room without worrying about placing the shade.
Could these be on separate switches? That would be cool.
I feel ya on the surgery. Had that done some time ago. One eye focused close and the other far. Took me a long time to figure out depth perception. I’ve pondered making a magnifier visor with different strengths for each eye but never got around to it.
randyp
March 2023
Thanks Ken for saying things look wonderful. My last SW model was the first one I used LED lights. They are working so much better than small incandescent bulbs I used before did. I plan to use four lights in and on the handcar repair shed and two maybe or three on the tank. Thanks Randy
randyp
March 2023
Thanks Bryan. The bulb and shade were just hanging by the wires in this picture. I will raise it some more when I fix it in place to stay. While your suggestion of a light on the wall is a good one I don’t feel that that would add to the realism. The other suggestion about switches is one I am definitely considering. The one eye far and the other close is not an option for me. About twenty years ago I had a detached retina. I can not see the big E on the eye chart out of my left eye. It takes me four or five tries to get those very thin wires through the metal tube I am using for a conduit. Oh well, it is what it is. Thanks for your suggestions and help. Randy
randyp
March 2023 edited March 2023
I put the wires for the center light through a short piece of tubing and attached it to a cross piece of wood. I made the light higher so it would not show through the open door. I also painted the inside of the light shade ivory white. When painting I also painted the sides of the LED. I am pleased with the results. The picture has a warmer look then and has less glare than last one.
I also took a picture of the next two courses of shakes.
Bothe ends of the back half of the roof are warped up. The right more than the left. I soked each end with water and put them under weight. Hope this works this time. So far the front side is staying flat because I am only doing one course at a time. I then put that side of the roof under a weight until it dries. Takes longer the get the roof finished but hopefully the roof will stay flat. Thanks for looking and as always any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Karl.A
March 2023 edited March 2023
Looks fantastic Randy.
The now subdued lighting is perfect and shows the interior off so well.
The shingles are coming along beautifully.
From what I’ve learned,
the curling/curving of the roof (and in other situations walls) is caused by the glue contracting as it cures.
Now yes weighting it down while it dries is good practice over night and works great when building as per the manual and is the way to go.
However, I’ve learned that for an unsupported roof panel (or wall) the glue continues to shrink and contract over time, for at least a week or two until all moisture is expelled from the glue.
Obviously building as per the manual when we are gluing the roof down (or walls together) this is not a problem as the glued down roof is held level and prevents this.
When deviating from the manual the ‘loose’ roof panels need to be weighted for a longer period until all moisture has expelled from the glue.
As the glue outgasses and releases the moisture it shrinks, thus pulling the shingles/battens/boards closer together, as this is only happening on one side of the panel it causes the ‘curl’.
I’ve found that building the ‘deviated, removable’ panels as early as possible in my build process and then just leaving them to one side under weights until needed later, (usually a week or two, most often a month or two, and of course with me, sometimes a year or ten) then this resolves the problem.
The panels will dry, and then cure completely by the time I’m ready to use them. After the curing and outgassing process is complete, under weight, the panels never curl again and will always remain flat.
(Unless of course you wet them for some reason and resoften the glue, at that point weight and leave to cure again.)
TomMich
March 2023
I like both lights. The general overhead light and the task light over the drill. The final fix on the overhead light is very good.
kebmo
March 2023
TomMich said:
I like both lights. The general overhead light and the task light over the drill. The final fix on the overhead light is very good.
i agree. you fixed it and it’s perfect. the light over the drill press is a great touch too.
brownbr
March 2023
Raising the light makes it so a viewer is not staring at the bulb through the door but can still see the shade. Very nice.
randyp
March 2023
Karl, Thanks for the information and advise. I am taking my time on the rest of the shakes. I went back and epoxied the perlans to the ridge board. This made a little dip at the ends but I thing it looks better with the dip than it bowed up so much as it was. Here is the fourth course of shakes.
I will wait another day for the glue to dry under a weight before I add another course. The other thing that I have done is to stain the rocks walls of the pump house. I went on with the artist colors I started with. They were a close match to the colors on Rich’s layout as was shown in an earlier post. Here are the two side walls.
I just colored them with the five artist colors I posted before. Then I dusted on some 408.5 chalk to blend the colors together. The front and back side walls had bricks to color. So first the artist paints and chalk. I then painted the bricks with a cheep red paint and allowed them to dry. I then mixed some soapy water with Poly-S aged concrete paint. Then I flowed it over the bricks to represent the moater. After that dried I freckled some of the bricks with black, brown, and white chalk and alcohol. This way not all of the bricks were the same color.
The last new thing that I did was to build the little table in the breezeway. I glued the water cooler over the table. I got to thinking about and decided that the workers needed something to drink from. So I made some cups from styrene tube with a .012 wire handle.
Thanks,Tom, Kevin, and Bryan for liking the lights. As usual all comments and suggestion are appreciated. Thanks Randy
gjdale
March 2023
That looks fabulous Randy. I particularly like the stonework.
brownbr
March 2023
The cups are a very cool addition.
Karl.A
March 2023
Making good progress Randy, pulling it all together.
KKarns
March 2023
Great stone work Randy. The color tones remind me of the old quarried sandstone blocks used for buildings. Well done.
randyp
March 2023
Grant and Ken, I was not sure how the rockwork would turn out. That first wall just looked to stark. After a little blinding and some chalk I feel that the colors turned. I am glad you liked the walls. Thanks Bryan, I thought they add a nice touch. Something different. Karl, I am making progress. I was hoping to get it to a narrow gauge meet next Saturday. I don’t think that is going to happen. Just just to much to finish. Thanks for every ones comments. Randy
JenS
March 2023
Hi Randy,
how do you get along? Will you finish until saturday? Can’t help from here…
Karl.A
March 2023
Best not to rush it Randy, I’ve made that mistake in the past and never been happy with it.
Take it as a work in progress to share, you have still got to a point where you have plenty of excellent work to show and share with people.
Jim M
April 2023
Randy, any updates?
Joel
June 2023
Sorry I’m a bit late but I have to say how much I love the shingles and the lighting just brings a whole new dimension to the project.
randyp
October 2023
Thank you Joel. I was real happy with the way they turned out. It took time up on the roof for them the weather but I think it was worth it.
Jim thanks for looking and asking for an update. Just to let every one know I have not dropped off the face of the Earth. Lets see what I have been up to for the last six months. First I had cataract surgery, then went to the Sn3 symposium, fell and broke two ribs, But what really took the time this summer was as Kevin can attest was a new puppy.
I was able to get back to the work bench in time to finish the water tank and handcar shed in
time for the Denver convention. No plack this year but it was close. So here are the last build pictures.
The Right end of the hand car shed
The left side of the diorama.
The back of the handcar shed.
The whole model from the front.
The whole model from the back.
I want to thank everyone for looking at my efforts with this great Sierra West model from Brett. I will be starting another thread soon. This one will be my Third,Fourth, and Fifth Sierra West model. I plan to combine the Rigging Shed, the Tool Shed, and the Lineside shed into one diorama.
brownbr
October 2023
nice presentation
randyp
October 2023
Thanks Bryan, I needed to set it up that way because the back will not be seen when it is on the Rich Rand’s layout. Randy
Jim M
October 2023
Randly, glad to see you back. Nice job on the dio and congratulations on the pup.
TomMich
October 2023
Nice work on the diorama. I saw it at the convention and it was very well done.
randyp
October 2023
Jim, thanks for the compliment about the dio. The new puppy is a love. However, he and his older “brother” kicked our tails this summer but lots of fun too.
Thanks Tom, It was a good fun build that I enjoyed. I was hoping to do better but was not expecting to win anything. Denver always has a ton of extremely well done models. This year was no different with a lot of models from Brett. Randy
KKarns
October 2023
Great detail work Randy. So much to peruse. Unique and nontraditional diorama base, is it going in a layout or as is?
randyp
October 2023
Thanks, Ken. It was shaped to fit in and around existing scenery and structures. I used 1/4 inch hardboard. Then to keep it flat I glued 1/2 inch basswood strips onto the bottom. the basswood will be removed when the dio is put in place on the layout. Rich did not want anything thicker because at the spot on the layout where he wants the model he can not cut into the top of the layout. That is a long way of saying that the dio will go on the layout as is. We will just scenic around and blend it in so the 1/4 inch thickness will not be noticed. Randy
KKarns
October 2023
Ahh…makes sense! Well done.
Robert.G
October 2023
Great diorama in an original presentation. Well done Randy !!!
randyp
October 2023
Thank You Robert. Considering your expertise I consider your “well done” a high complement. Randy
admin
October 2023
Great to hear from you Randy, sounds like a crazy Summer. Super cute pup!
Love the finished dio, great work. Looking very forward to your “trio” of older kits. They look great together.
randyp
October 2023
Thanks Brett. It has been an interesting summer. As the old curse says " may you live in in teresting times." I should have some pictures of the rigging shed walls soon. Randy