This thread was started in February, 2017
sdrees
February 2017 in HO Scale Builds
I have been building my first layout this past year and have not been building any kits of any kind. I need a break and am going to build Shelby’s.
Here is a picture of all the great castings that came with the kit.
I have been spending my time studying the instruction manual. I will have to determine whether I use the techniques in the manual or more up to date ones.
And the overall contents of the kit.
I decided to mix up Brett’s recipe for soaking the strip wood since thee is so much of it rather that using the pastels.
The framing for the walls.
Comments
sdrees
February 2017
Here are some pictures of my layout which I have been working on this past year.
brownbr
February 2017
Nice start on the kit and the layout. I looked for a thread under layout construction for yours and didn’t see one. I’d be interested in seeing more about the layout at some point.
admin
February 2017
I am a big fan of your work and can’t wait to see you add your touch to Shelby’s. Thank you for posting your build for all of us!
KKarns
February 2017 edited February 2017
Excellent Stephen, I love this kit and it was one of the kits I was toying with building before I settled on BlueSky. That layout looks incredible and well populated with SWSM dios!
sdrees
February 2017
I have building some of the logging series of Brett’s kits and did a scratch build on a sawmill Ken. I wanted to do something completely different and I thought this would be a real fun project to build. Your wood clinic will be a big help on this kit. So we shall see what kind of student I am.
KKarns
February 2017
Looking at your work, it doesn’t appear you need much help! Very anxious to see you work through Shelby’s. Right, I thought I detected a saw mill tucked in there!
Jerry
February 2017
Nice looking layout so far. Keep us posted.
Jerry
Joel
February 2017
Looks great so far. I am marvelling at how neat and clean your room is. You can really focus on the models.
sdrees
February 2017
You have a good eye Ken. In the back is a sawmill I scratch built based on plans I had for the Sturgeon Sawmill in Northern California.
Thanks Jerry for your comment.
Wes
February 2017
Wonderful work so far. Ill pull up a chair and watch this unfold.
Pitty the other fellows beat me to the front row though.
KCSTrains
February 2017
Steve, I know how you feel. I miss building kits, but I really need to make some progress on my layout. Too much business travel. I will be following along. Phil
sdrees
February 2017
Hi Phil,
Last weekend I picked up 50 Tortoise switch machines. I also got some of the Barret Hill touch toggles to see what they are all about. They look very easy to install, make the wiring also easy and will make a cool looking control panel.
The last few days, I have been prepping strip wood for the siding on Shelby’s. Very slow process.
So I will probably be installing switch machines and working on Shelby’s concurrently.
Wes, glad to have you along.
KCSTrains
February 2017
Wow, 50 switch machines!!! You won’t regret getting the Barret Hill touch toggles. They are really nice. As for the switch machines, I hope you bought the drilling template. It makes is a lot easier. Phil
sdrees
February 2017
Here are some pictures of the main building right wall. After soaking the strip wood I used the damp brushing technique with a white acrylic paint to achieve the weathered effect. I distressed the individual pieces of strip wood per Ken’s grunge clinic. After, I applied A/I.
Bill
February 2017
Loving your peeling paint effect. Nailed it!
nextceo
March 2017
Paint effect looks awesome but what I really like even more is how you weathered the edge of the boards…especially the ones on the 45 degree angle.
Joel
March 2017
Great start to one of my favourite kits. Excited to follow along
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the feed back. It helps moving forward with the rest of the walls.
KKarns
March 2017
Stephen, looking really good and not only is the peel effect well done but you’ve got boards with great individual character through your detailing. Nail holes look just right not too 'loud" but noticeable. Like Joel, I’m really excited to be following this build of such an iconic SWSM Kit.
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Ken. That means a lot coming from you.
KKarns
March 2017
You bet Stephen, well deserved and always nice to get off to a good start on a build like this. I just read through a couple of older build threads on Shelby’s and your wood detail is as good or better than any I looked at.
CarlLaskey
March 2017
Hey Ken
What the one that I built on page two?
Carl
KKarns
March 2017
Was looking at actual build threads of the construction process with detail shots of the siding treatment. Your pictures I think were a couple of your finished Shelby’s diorama if I remember correctly…I don’t think they showed any real close ups. Your work historically is something we much younger modelers aspire to and judge our work against. Wasn’t slighting your Shelby’s just wasn’t looking at it from a build thread standpoint.
sdrees
March 2017
Hi Ken,
When this kit came out the instructions for the peeling paint effect was done by blotting the towel with paint on it on the strip wood. I think that the damp painting technique looks much better.
When I built the loco service facilities, the peeling paint effect was done completely different and gave very good results. The effect though is different from the peeling paint from the damp brushing technique and it also is very time consuming.
sdrees
March 2017 67.1.150.220
The second story walls are chip board and they are braced with 1/4" strip wood.
The second story chip board walls and the first story walls are glued together and the trim has been placed except for the front wall.
SteveCuster
March 2017
The siding looks great Steve.
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Steve, I still have some more work to do on the walls.
ironmountainlumber
March 2017
Hi Steve!
The walls look great. I am looking forward to seeing this come together. your layout is awesome. Can I ask was there any tricks to doing a helix? How much space does this occupy? I may need to do this to change heights on the layout I am working on. I have been building structures for some time and getting close to laying them out so I can start on some track work.
Jim
KKarns
March 2017
I’m with Jim, walls do look really good. Between that terrific layout and the structures you’ve done a ton of work there. Look forward to some walls coming together.
sdrees
March 2017 edited March 2017
Hi Jim,
The space will depend on the radius of the helix. Mine is a 24" radius so the total width is 48" to the centers of the tracks, plus the width of the road bed. Some of my tracks on the helix are going to be exposed and I am going to have a village in the center of the helix on top.
To make mine easier to build, I started on a flat layer instead of an open grid work under it. It was easier to build the grade correctly. You do not want the grade to be to steep. Also you want to get enough vertical clearance between the layers of the helix. This is dependent also on the grade. The vertical clearance on mine does not meet NMRA standards. I also had to leave the cork road bed form the track bed for extra room. I used a RR CAD software also which did some of the calculations for me but the software is not necessary. But I have enough clearance to get my equipment to work properly.
If you do a google search, you can find some assistance on the internet.
sdrees
March 2017
Hi Ken,
You are the person who should know how long it takes to build the walls. I am waiting for you to get your walls standing on your wonderful Blue Sky project. I am working on the windows today and I have some more details to do to the walls.
MikeM
March 2017
If you go to the Model Railroad Hobbyist website and do a search on a member called “Chief Buffoon” you will find a series of postings about his helix construction efforts. Buried in there is a posting labeled “Helix calculations” in which he posts a link to an elaborate Excel spreadsheet he built to aid in helix design. I’d post links but I gather I’m not supposed to, hence this workaround; you can download the spreadsheet template and save it off somewhere as I have done. An interesting and helpful effort you may find of assistance.
sdrees
March 2017
Here is a look at the installed windows.
And now I am gluing the walls together.
admin
March 2017
Looking fantastic Stephen! Peeling paint is perfect and the windows match the walls spot on…
KKarns
March 2017 edited March 2017
Superb Stephen, you really got a great feel for the peeling paint and a sea side structure weathering. Nail holes are getting a bit strong looking here and there, probably because of the white paint with the holes dark. The first picture of the wall with the two windows is where I notice it. The sceond picture down, and the two sets of board joints below the window and the one directly above, the holes look perfect to me, subtile but noticeable but not the first thing you see.. Compare those to the ones above the large door opening on the first picture…my eye gets drawn immediately to the holes…just my take and a bit nit picky but that kind of critique is warranted when your build is so nicely done, and your Shelby’s is just that!
sdrees
March 2017
Brett,
Thanks for your comment. Since I have done all three procedures for the peeling paint, I like this one the best, the damp brush technique.
sdrees
March 2017
Hi ken,
Thanks for the critique. I do really appreciate you taking the time to nit pick. I will fix the nail holes that stick out.
Bill
March 2017
I would echo what Ken said concerning the nail holes. For a little variety, you may want to dab some dark brown chalk on a couple of them here and there. I’d use a pin moistened with some alcohol. Push the pininto a pile of chalk powder and gently apply to a couple nail holes. Blow away the excess chalk dust rather than wiping.
I love the wear on the paint around the large door in your first picture above. Very cool!
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks for the tip Bill.
sdrees
March 2017
I raised the walls today. Here are the results. Several shots of the first floor interior are included. Seems we forget those walls. There are still some nail holes I see that I need to fix.
KKarns
March 2017
Coming along great Stephen. Really starting to look like something and the structure looks great. Second pocture from the top…love those windows!
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Ken,
ironmountainlumber
March 2017 edited March 2017
Hey Steve,
Thank you for the information about the helix. I really appreciate it. The build is coming along very nicely. The walls look great! Are you going to combine shelby’s with Brett’s other waterfront offerings?
Jim
sdrees
March 2017
Jim,
Your welcome for the helix information. I don’t have room on my layout for a larger waterfront area. And I appreciate the nice comment.
sdrees
March 2017 edited March 2017
I have been working on the walls for the bait shop recently. I wire brushed the clap board siding to provide the wood grain. Then I used Rembrandt pastels for staining the clap board. I then lightly sanded the siding to show wear on the edges of the clap board siding. I raised some of the ends of the siding with a No. 11 blade and used a pin to make the nail holes. I then used the damp brushing technique for the color coat and then several coats of a light A/I solution.
I placed the dry transfers. I was very lucky that the large ones came out OK. Also, I cut out some of the printed signs, sanded the back on the larger ones to make them thinner and worked them into the clapboard siding by using a No. 11 blade and cut them along the edges of the clapboard siding. Since the printed signs were glossy, I used a flat acrylic clear coat to dull them.
The bright red paint at the bottom on the first picture will not be seen once the walls are assembled.
After looking at the last picture, I do not like the trim around the door as it is to wide and I will change it.
Wes
March 2017
Those are some seriously delapidated walls Stephen. Good stuff.
The boats for hire sign catches my eye though. It looks too bright for the more run down part of the wall that it is situated on. Should be any easy fix for sure.
brownbr
March 2017
Signs look good. I agree about the door frame molding.
sdrees
March 2017
You can make all the comments you want ED. That makes us better modelers. Nobody has commented on the right wall in picture 2. It is upside down. I guess I fixed that before anybody noticed. Thanks also brownbr and Wes for stopping by.
KKarns
March 2017
Hey Stephen…your one wall is upsdide down! Oops…late to the party. Really like the weathered walls…right up my alley. Nicely done.
sdrees
March 2017
I have completed erecting the walls for the bait and tackle shop. And everybody, I fixed the upside down wall and the trim on the screen door on the one story structure.
KKarns
March 2017
Great looking structure Stephen. You have the weathered white trim down cold, looks great. Again, clapboard siding is terrific. What’s the orange thingy in the second story window?
CarlRowe
March 2017
engine909 said:
Ken,
Anyone model On30?
Yes! I do.
sdrees
March 2017
Hi Ken,
It is a bottle of Scotch! The trim and siding is all about doing a lousy paint job.
Karl.A
March 2017
This is looking so nice, one of my favorite kits of Bretts, aren’t they all.
Gotta love putting the walls together, everything just starts to feel real !!
The hard part now is not overlooking the small stuff, keep focused.
engine909 said:
Anyone model On30?
I’ve dabbled with ‘o’ a time or two…
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Karl, long time haven’t seen you commenting. I have always enjoyed your builds.
KKarns
March 2017
So that’s your secret to great peeling paint and claopboard siding work…a good bottle of Scotch!
sdrees
March 2017 edited March 2017
You bet. And plenty of it.
KKarns
March 2017
I just made a note of it…
sdrees
March 2017
Ken, you should add that footnote to you Dr. Grunge tutorial.
KCSTrains
March 2017
Steve, looking great. Decals have always been hard for me. You did a great job. Phil
sdrees
March 2017
Hey Phil, Thanks for stopping by. They are dry transfers and thank god that the ones that matter turned out OK. I did screw up some other ones though in the process.
sdrees
March 2017
I have laid out the framing for the main wharf on the template. I use double sided scotch tape to hold the framing material in place.
Then I start to place the plank material making sure to keep it straight.
Here are the finished wharves.
I have started the diorama base. The first step was to draw a template of the area with the layout of the wharves and the land formation.
I then used carbon paper and a pin wheel to transfer the land formation to the 1/2" sheets of Styrofoam.
I then cut out the different Styrofoam sheets.
I used a 1/2" piece of Gator Board for the base, and then used a caulking to glue the base and 4 layers of Styrofoam together.
I then placed the wharves where they are supposed to appear on the diorama.
Karl.A
March 2017
Looking great Steve. Colouring on the wharf decking boards is nice and sun bleached with great variational tones.
The land forms are also looking good, I loved this stage of the build.
As a side note, if you find the caulked together layers are taking too long to dry and are still sliding around and not firm, but, you are keen to move on… push toothpicks through the layers at 45 from several directions, 10-15 should work well for you, just snip off the excess with some clippers/nipers. This will prevent the layers moving while the adhesive is still not set and allow you to move forward if you wish.
Karl.A
sdrees
March 2017
thanks Karl. So far I haven’t had any problem with the Styrofoam layers sliding around.
Karl.A
March 2017 edited March 2017
Good to hear, caulk is nice and tacky, other adhesives not so much and drying time can be extended due to lack of air. I always was impatient… ha
SteveCuster
March 2017
Great job so far Steve. The dry transfers can be challenging the older the kit is, yours look great.
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Steve. They weren’t easy
KKarns
March 2017
Really good start on the dio base Stephen. I love the topography that’s built into the Shelby’s diorama, Brett did a marvelous job with the design.
sdrees
March 2017
Thanks Ken, I hope it turns out as well as the rest of the diorama.
KKarns
April 2017
I have no doubt it will…
sdrees
April 2017
Here are more progress photo’s on the diorama base. I have located and temporarily installed the support piles for the main wharf and the bait and tackle shop wharf. But before I placed the sculptamode I removed the main piles and placed temporary pile in there place and placed the sculptamode around them.
The retaining wall by the boat ramp.
The piling wall
The rock wall
The wharves are temporarily sitting on the support piles and the trestle is also temporarily in place
I will paint the diorama base before the support piling and the decorative piling are installed.
Bill
April 2017
Coming along nicely, Stephen.
How did you make the rock wall? Really like the look of the stonework near the boat ramp.
sdrees
April 2017
Thanks Bill, the stone work near the boat ramp Brett did with one of his castings. I did an initial coat of paint, but still have more to do. The wall on the tackle and bait shop side, I did with real rocks from my back yard. But, as I look at the picture of it, I think the rocks are to big and I need to find some smaller rocks, say about half the size shown for the wall. 10 ton riprap looks way to big for me for this situation.
Bill
April 2017
I agree. Since you’re not too far along (and if it’s not too much trouble), I’d make that opposite look as similar to the first one as possible. In the real world, they probably would have built both at the same time and therefore used similar materials.
Keep at it. This is an interesting looking project. I have no vision whatsoever when it comes to composition, but I like what I see in the arrangemnet of the elements.
sdrees
April 2017
I redid the riprap on the bait and tackle shop side and have added barnacles to stone wall and to the riprap. I have added stains to the wall and riprap at the water line. Included are several prototypical photo’s I tried to use as a guideline.
I think the riprap wall looks a lot better now.
SteveCuster
April 2017
Great work Steve. The stonework and pilings look fantastic, very realistic.
mikemettelka
April 2017
Everyone I see this, I like it more and more! Great job!
admin
April 2017
I really like the new waterline topography. Well done!
KKarns
April 2017
Wonderful little mini-scene detail work Stephen. Love that retaining wall casting with the old pipe, so many opportuities for deatils around that bad boy and your finish on it is looking terrific.
sdrees
April 2017
Thanks everyone for the nice comments. Oh Ken there is so much more to do in this area.
Karl.A
April 2017
Looking great Steve, the landforms and topography came out great and the stone walls are coming along very nicely indeed. love the views with the decks in place, starts to bring it home. Strong work indeed.
Awesome kit, fantastic design and your work is doing those superlatives proud.
Karl.A
sdrees
April 2017
Thanks Karl. Those words mean a lot to me.
sdrees
April 2017
Attached are progress photo’s of my project. I have placed the basic ground cover for the foreground of the diorama. I painted the sculptamode then applied real dirt which I had sifted through a nylon stocking. I then applied a courser material for some texture. Then I applied some debris. Once the rest of the diorama is completed, there is a lot more details to add.
I glued the support piles in place and then glued the wharves to the piles. On the boat works, I applied the decorative piles.
nextceo
April 2017 edited April 2017
Looking really good. Have you decided which material you are going to use to simulate water? With this particular configuration, I would probably recommend ModPodge. The other option would be Envirotex if you can figure out how to seal the three open edges…
Karl.A
April 2017 edited April 2017
Envirotex/open edges.
run some painters tape around the edges to create a dam.
mix up a small amount of envirotex and ‘paint’ it around the inside of the dam to create a seal.
leave to cure and then pour your main epoxy.
leave to cure and remove low tack tape.
drybrush off white on ridges around pilings/rocks to simulate foam/ turbulence
let dry, stand back and admire.
Karl.A
Bill
April 2017 edited April 2017
What Karl said. Spot on
sdrees
April 2017
Carl, I was going to use envirotex. In this case it will be 3/8" thick and I will do it in 3 layers. Once the envirotex is cured, I will apply Modpodge to the Envirotex surface to add ripples and other texture.
This won’t happen until the last step of the build.
sdrees
April 2017
Thanks for the advice Karl and Bill. Any suggestions are a real help.
KKarns
April 2017
Really good progress Stephen. Classic waterfront scene and your attention to details and finish will make it exceptional.
sdrees
April 2017
Thanks Ken for you encouragement
sdrees
May 2017
This is my short version of doing the castings.
As you can see from the photo, I use many types of paint, Rembrandt soft pastels, Reaper acrylic paints, craft acrylic paints from Michaels and what ever other paint I may need.
The first step for me is to prime the castings with a spay paint. For wood items, I spray the castings with a earth tone color. For metal items, I will use a gray colored paint. In this case, I used an air brush.
I always use a piece of glass for my palette because it is so easy to cleanup. I just use a straight razor blade to scrape the glass.
On the left side of the glass are powders made from the soft pastels. In this case I used pastel numbers 408.3, 408.5, 408.7, various shades of raw umber, 231.3 a shade of yellow ochre.
I use alcohol to mix with the powder to paint all the wood surfaces on the castings.
Then I use the acrylic paint to paint all the little details of the castings such as wood and metal barrels, various tools, cans, buckets, parts, etc
I will then use an A/I solution and go over the whole casting and then let the alcohol dry. I will then use various shades burnt sienna and add rust where I want it.
Once the casting is complete, I will then dust it with a light gray or earth tone to dull the colors so that none of them draws your attention.
This is only about a third of the castings. I am then going to add some castings to update the scene to sometime in the early 1950’s. The vertical steam engine is going in the scrap heap and the boat will be powered by a diesel engine instead of sails and the steam engine. I am looking for more castings that are more marine oriented. I have a casting of an electric winch to go into the winch house.
KKarns
May 2017
Wow!..really nice Stephen. Love the wood tone and the subtile but obvious colors of all the details. Great job and nice tutorial…Ken
KCSTrains
May 2017
Steve, I like your summary and this is probably the approach I need to take as I build each kit for my layout. Since I’m not creating dioramas for competitions, I don’t know if I want to spend too much time agonizing over what color I paint each item in the casting. I love the look of your castings. Phil
admin
May 2017
Well done Steve. Castings look great. Sure brings back a lot of memories for me seeing those castings after so many years…
Karl.A
May 2017
Castings are looking great Steve, really natural diverse variations in the wood tones, lots of colour in the details but everything remains subtle. Also great definition between various items on the shelves, clean and sharp, yet blended together very nicely. Great work.
Karl.A
sdrees
May 2017
Thanks for taking the time to make you nice comments. I really appreciate it very much. This was my abbreviated tutorial of Karl’s tutorial which I reviewed before starting this scope of work.
admin
May 2017
Karl’s tutorial is a classic and has been utilized by many many award winning modelers! That’s what I love about most swsm customers, they’re not shy about giving credit where credit is due. Nothing worse than stealing another modelers ideas and techniques and making them “sound” like original ideas.
If you are interested in Karl’s and many other great tutorials go here:
Craftsman Kit University
sdrees
May 2017 edited May 2017
I have been working on all the loading dock and associated structure, overhead crane parts and the hoist house. here are some pictures of progress on the hoist house.
I have modified the front of the hoist house because I am going to install an electrical winch that will be seen through the front opening
brownbr
May 2017
Excellent distressed paint job.
admin
May 2017
love the boards!
Karl.A
May 2017
Terrific looking walls/board detail, really nicely done.
Karl.A
KKarns
May 2017
I like the board detailing and paint weathering. Window and frame very nicely done.
sdrees
May 2017
Thanks everyone for your encouraging comments.
Karl.A
May 2017
Thanks for taking the time to share your great work with us, pleasure to admire.
Karl.A
sdrees
May 2017
I have been working on the fishing boat this past week. What I have done is add a prop and rudder to the boat. Also the cabin I made the walls out of 1/64" bass plywood and made several templates and wrapped it around and glued the plywood to them. The roof is 1/32" bass plywood.
One of the reasons the boat is in the repair yard is to get a new paint job.
The body of the boat, I primed it with light sea grey, and then painted white with an acrylic paint. Then I wire brushed the resin body. On the cabin, I spray painted with light sea grey and then dry brushed the walls.
KCSTrains
May 2017
Steve, a very nice boat and very believable. Phil
sdrees
May 2017
Thanks Phil and Ed for your comments
KKarns
May 2017
Nicely done and I like theb partially painted hull, tells agreat story of a work in progress. Nice rustic and weathered apperance you created on the rest of the boat. The prop and rudder are awesome.
sdrees
May 2017
Thanks Ken, appreciate the comments. I think that it is very important to tell a story with your models. It makes the whole thing that much more interesting.
sdrees
May 2017
I have been working on various items the last several days. here is the outside plumbing.
Among the other things I have completed are the remainder of the castings.
KKarns
May 2017
Stephen…love the outdoor plumbing! Nice touch to paint it the same siding color. Great work on the castings and really like the “dingy” collection. Love the motor on the skid…Dr. Grunge would have it looking all yucky and stuff…nicely done.
sdrees
May 2017
Hi Ken, My story on the motor is that it has been an overhauled engine with a Caterpillar yellow paint, ready to go into the fishing boat. I was going to have another engine, torn apart and with pieces on the floor and grungy looking with some mechanics working on it. I really appreciate your comments
Karl.A
May 2017
Love the casting work you have done Steve, those beauties are going to make this structure come alive. The rust/chipping effects you have achieved look perfect. I like the hoist engine scenario.
KCSTrains
June 2017
Steve, the castings are really going to look good when you place them on the diorama. Phil
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Karl and Phil, I appreciate the comments.
The diorama is now taking shape after completing all the subassemblies and painting all the castings. The boat repair building has been mounted to the diorama, the siding from the mainline has been laid, the remainder of the scenery base has been place and now some of the detailed castings.
brownbr
June 2017
Looking great
MarkG
June 2017
I’m really impressed with your craftsmanship Steve. Great work.
Mark
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Ed, brownbr and Mark. Mark, your modeling is not to shabby either.
KKarns
June 2017
I echo Ed’s remark…that whire weather beaten siding looks terrific. Wonderful work.
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Ken, It is starting to come together now as one.
Bill
June 2017
Wow! This is really looking great, Steve. I apologize if I missed it, but what are you using for the dirt in the most recent pictures? I like the color and the variety of textures works well in your scene. Also, I’m looking at where the rails end with the bent (pic 2 & 4). Love that! It looks like the area was excavated to accommodate the incoming rails, but the smaller loose stones and dirt have been erroded away as water runs down the slope. Well done! Very natural looking.
Just a quick observation from my vantage point–the pyramid of barrels (in picture 4) looks really red as opposed to rusty. Especially when compared to the grouping around the corner of the building (in picture 1). Perhaps the reddish ones are fully weathered yet, but I wanted to point that out.
Looking forward to the next update.
Bill
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Bill. I really appreciate your comments. The dirt is just local dirt screened from a construction site here in Tucson. I screened several different sizes and apply them separately.
After I posted the pictures, I to noticed the red. I will tone it down.
Where do you come up with this stuff Ed.
jpcohen
June 2017
I want a Shelby’s soooo bad.. PLEASE someone help get me one!!!
sdrees
June 2017
Ed,
I am glad that you are following my modeling. I enjoy your useless information. Can you build one of Brett’s models drink scotch at the same time?
JP, you just have to be patient. They are out there on EBay and other resellers.
Karl.A
June 2017
Great progress displayed in those pictures, looking so good.
Bill sure has ‘the eye’, but better than that he can also help with a great suggestion.
Karl.A
Locoshop in the background looks sweet also, that’s a nice pic.
sdrees
June 2017
Hey Ed, No I agree with you that you need a clear head when you build one of Brett’s kits. And that is hard to do when sober when you are 75 years old. Your head is to clear and you forget what you are trying to do.
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Karl, I appreciate Bill’s suggestions and yours and Ken’s and anybody else’s, good or bad. That is how you become a better modeler.
kebmo
June 2017
i’m in awe…
sdrees
June 2017 edited June 2017
Hi, Attached are pictures of the main stairway and the old barrels and fence by the stone wall. All comments and suggestions are welcome
Karl.A
June 2017
Looking great Sdrees, cant wait to see this with the roof on, that red tar paper is gonna just bring it home… do you have something planned that I missed???
The barrel area looks great, but if I may suggest… it needs some pure black close to the drums and leading away, the scene is right, but the colouration of the dirt seems ‘washed out’…
I see a dirty, oily mess in my head, but, not on the screen.
looking forward to the next update.
Karl.A
brownbr
June 2017
Love it.
I keep going back to the photo with the external plumbing. I like the way the angles of the pipes matches then angles on the opening in the wall.
KKarns
June 2017
Stephen, wonderfully done. I love the deck planking around Shelby’s, perfect weathered grey coloring. Contrasts perfectly with the siding. Worth mentioning again how nice the peeling and worn paint on Shelby’s looks, I love those first two pics…
sdrees
June 2017
Well Ed I don’t know who Dennis Lehane is, but He must be good.
Karl, the barel area was a dilemma for me. I had the area almost pure black, but it became one of those areas that caught your eye immediately and didn’t look right. So then I tried to lighten it up with some pastels.. So maybe I need to out some pure black very close to the barrels only like you suggest. Now Karl, How can I have something planned that you missed. You are going to have to wait and see.
Brownbr, That was luck on the way the angles match on the plumbing with the wall.
Ken thanks again for you encouragement.
KCSTrains
June 2017
Steve, as you know from my comments to Ken on his build, I like to create some contrast in the scene so the viewer can clearly see the details of the build. Some don’t like to do this. As I’m looking at your 1st and 2nd pictures, there is a lot of great building and weathering, but I don’t see a lot of contrast. It looks the same. I would suggest darkening up the doors and windows a bit to create this contrast. That being said, once you place your castings, the contrast may be created by them. To show my point, look at picture #4. The roof, the beam over the doorway, the pier, and the castings in the foreground create the contrast I’m looking for. Just food for thought. I admire your modeling. Phil
sdrees
June 2017
Phil, I appreciate the comment about the contrast that you are talking about. I will keep that in mind when I continue adding the different sub builds and castings that I have yet to add to the project.
Karl.A
June 2017 edited June 2017
The red roof will bring the contrast all together, as will the contrasting hoist house and the boat… The contrasting addition at the rear of the main building would have also added to this effect.
When the roof goes on it makes it whole and the effects come together.
Karl.A
I’ll wait with anticipation then Steve.
sdrees
June 2017
I can hardly wait to finish it also, but my wife and I are going to New England next week for 2 weeks. Maybe I will get some ideas when we visit Maine.
MarkG
June 2017
Steve,
From my perspective, there is an overall sense of unity and harmony in the structure that seems very realistic with a level of subtle detail that draws you to want to look more. Quite the accomplishment. Bravo!
Mark
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Mark, but you have to give credit to Brett for his design with all the details and scenes he has designed, and I am able to follow through on his instructions and some of my own stories.
sdrees
June 2017
Attached are photo’s of the latest progress before I leave on our trip of the hoist house. this is what I did with the boiler. The winch was originally driven by the steam boiler, but was replaced with an electric powered winch, so I junked it and the piping along side the building.
I also added the stack that was used by the coal fired steam boiler.
I opened up the front of the building and added a winch
KKarns
June 2017
Sweet addition Stephen and well done. Love the cable just looped on the ground and detail castings are terrific.
sdrees
June 2017
Thanks Ken and Ed, Steve or Stephen is fine to me
KCSTrains
June 2017
Steve, looking good. Enjoy your trip. Phil
brownbr
June 2017
That last shot really shows the depth of the layout. Really looks good.
Bill
June 2017
Wow…I love the treatment of the red boards. Ties in nicely with the roof and castings.
Also like that hint of brick floor that I see in the front entrance!!
Dave_S
June 2017
Steve,
I’ve been enjoying your build while learning some new techniques and ideas.
Thanks for posting.
Later, Dave S. From The Great Sonoran Desert
sdrees
July 2017
Since my wife and I are back from our trip to New England, I am back at the bench. Recently I have placed the fishing boat on the diorama and place some of the details around it. Here are some progress photo’s of my story.
admin
July 2017
Fantastic Stephen. I love the scaffolding, great detail.
MarkG
July 2017
Wow Steve. Really great craftsmanship, and composition. The painters tell a story all there own. Great work!
mikemettelka
July 2017
That third pic is amazing!
brownbr
July 2017
Very nice.
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks for the compliments guys. Brett, I wanted to update the diorama to 1954 or so and wanted a different material to add more interest to the project
KCSTrains
July 2017
Great job Steve. Phil
Joel
July 2017
Looks great Steve. Love the attention to detail.
mikemettelka
July 2017
Did you paint the backdrop?
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Phil, Joel, and Mike. My sister painted the backdrop. She is coming this Fall to do some more work on it.
KKarns
July 2017
Teriffic detailing and overall scene construction. The shot showing the rail going down the slope to the water…excellent use of various size aggregate and overall details…great stuff!
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Ed and Ken for your comments.
jpcohen
July 2017
The overall feel and tones are working well together; very north-eastern in it’s feel. I like that you do not over due the rust and grime. Your environment looks well used not abandoned and derelict. Too many modelers forget that these are businesses that are still in operation and over work things to the point that they can become or feel neglected. You have a great balance. Lots of from beauty from dull colors, just perfect in my opinion. Bravo///
sdrees
July 2017
Hi JP,
I hope the north -eastern feel fits a western feel also because I am modeling the Northern California or Oregon area.
After spending 2 weeks driving thru New England, Any building that lacked paint or almost no paint had broken windows etc. was abandoned and dilapidated.
Buildings with slight or moderately peeling paint were still in use.
sdrees
July 2017 edited July 2017
Since the last posting, I have installed the roofs on the main building, finished the loading dock and added various details to the scene. The tar paper roof was spray painted with box car red, and once installed was weathered with Rembrandt pastels of white, grays and some tans.
Since electrical power was added to the hoist house, I thought that the main building should be upgraded with electrical power also and propane.
Since this a boat repair operation on this side of the diorama, I thought that there should be some marine parts somewhere on the loading dock.
Here are the results.
brownbr
July 2017
Looking great. The LP make the scene come alive.
I’m going to pick one nit with you. You have an incredible amount of realistic detail in the structure and scene…I hope you plan on spiking the remaining ties on your trackwork.
KCSTrains
July 2017
Great work Steve. I like the red roof. It really looks good. Phil
sdrees
July 2017
The red roof provides the contrast that is needed on the project and hasn’t been seen until now. Thanks Phil,
You mean I have to spike every tie? Oh my! I will do that this morning. thanks brownbr.
sdrees
July 2017
Hi Ed,
I welcome any comments about my work good or bad. It makes me do better work. Got sidetracked today and didn’t get the extra spikes placed, but will.
KKarns
July 2017
Fantastic Stephen, your attention to deatil on all the mini scenes are terrific. Really coming together nicely.
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Ken. I am having fun coming up with all the details and ideas for the mini scenes. More to come.
sdrees
July 2017
Ok, I am now finishing up the Bait and Tackle shop. Yesterday, I installed the roof and shingles on the building. I also added some signage that bait and tackle was available.
KKarns
July 2017
Once again, wonderfully done. Just the right amount of weathering. Signage weathered appropriately, doors and windows look great. Does that people door have “glass” in it??
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Ken notices everything Ed, that’s why he’s so good.
Great work Steve, the structure looks fantastic, wall weathering, faded paint, aged signs, chipped trim, all blends and fits together so well, everything equally distressed and nothing over done.
Shingled roof looks superb, just enough variation and relief to show some aging/warpage and interest for the viewer, but not so crazy to have them unrealistically and randomly sticking up all over the place, nice work.
Karl.A
sdrees
July 2017
Ken, The people door is a screen door. I use silk screen material for the door screen. I used a black sharpie to color it. And Ed, You gibber jabber is welcome and I like the good comments and bad comments as I have said several times before. Karl, I always appreciate your reviews and Ken’s. both of you are masters.
KKarns
July 2017
Ahh…screen is very nice. I love the look of an old screen door or window. A close up of that door would be nice to see? Is there a main door behind the screen door? An inside door partly open behind the screen door would be nifty. oops…I’m getting into that stuff nobody sees again! Just your build is so good I want to fiddle around with those fine details…
I agree with Karl, the roof shakes looks terrific. Curious about the guy wires on the brick chimmney?..that stove pipe looks awefully well supported on its own. Chimmney detailing is wonderful just wondering about the mechanics?
Love the work your doing and I’m no master just enthusiastic!
KKarns
July 2017
The lack of other buildings not having the guy wires wasn’t actually the point so I may not have been very clear, sorry I do ramble on at times. The stove pipe comes up through a brick chimney and then through a mortored cap and doesn’t stick up very far. I was thinking there would be no need for guy wires for that well supported small extended stove pipe…if I’m in left field here just let me know and I’ll go take my medication!
sdrees
July 2017
Hey Guys, The main building vent pipe has guy wires. Maybe I should put them on the winch shed also. The reason the guy wires are there is because Brett put them there in his model. I am good at following directions, sometimes.
Ken, here is a close up of the screen door.
I don’t think it shows very well in the picture.
And Ken, don’t sell yourself short. You are a master.
KKarns
July 2017
If Brett put it there there was very good reason for it!..looks great. Screen door looks terrific and thanks for taking the time to get a close up shot. Thanks very much Steve for such a kind comment, made my day and got me motivated to get some work done.
Not just worms…BIG worms!..love it.
admin
July 2017
Really coming together so well Stephen!
sdrees
July 2017
Here are the latest pictures of the bait and tackle shop.
nextceo
July 2017
Neat pictures…thanks for sharing!
sdrees
July 2017 edited July 2017
Hi Ed,
The Ice machine I made, there is a rack of fishing poles by the counter, I made the benches and the round picnic table.
I have more details to add to my story.
I am glad to share my pictures with everybody.
brownbr
July 2017
A great scene for sure.
admin
July 2017
Love what you did with the bait and tackle shop!
sdrees
July 2017
Hey Brett, I guess my over thinking paid off. It is an active and vibrant scene that tells my story. Ed, I enjoy trying to make an active scene with the LP. It adds so much to the diorama. Thanks brownbr.
KCSTrains
July 2017
Steve, this build just keeps getting better and better. The LP are a great addition and really brings the diorama to life. I love the ice machine and the coke chest. Phil
KKarns
July 2017
I can see the thought and planning you put into the details and finish Stephen…Wonderfully done and my eye keeps going to the weathered white painted wood you achieved. So very well done…love it. The sign aging is perfect for the building, not overdone but not new. You pulled off the controversial “LP” issue in fine style…one heck of a job.
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Ken, Like I said above, the LP give it life.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
The bait shop looks great Steve, really like the detailing you added and the weathering/colouring is terrific. The ‘retail’ window is a clever adaption of those double doors and fits perfectly, Nice job.
Karl.A
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Karl, I always appreciate you comments.
sdrees
July 2017
I have completed the overhead crane. I used styrene structural shapes for the steel beams and channel for the carrier.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Great job Steve. I like the way the colour of the rusted ‘I’ beams contrasts with the main structure, and also that the ‘A’ frame supports are barewood, but also that those brown tones of the ‘A’ frame follow down to the details beneath them, it creates a wonderful ‘flow’.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Suggestion : -
add some of that rust colour under where the ‘I’ beams are sitting on the cross member (and ‘A’ frame), it will tie them all together more and make it look like they have been sitting there for quite some time. That rust bleed will give it age and realism.
Karl.A
sdrees
July 2017
Thanks Karl for you commentary. I will rust color to the wood beam that supports the I beams.
Karl.A
July 2017
Subtle streaks ! But it was just a suggestion, it looks outstanding as it is.
brownbr
July 2017
The crane looks right at home. Great execution.
sdrees
August 2017
I am getting closer to pouring the water. I have been working on some of the landscape for the diorama and just about finished. I made the tree from sage brush as the armatures, polyfiber and course turf. The grass that you see is the static grass. The boom truck was kit bashed from a Sylvan kit.
brownbr
August 2017
The low angle shots looking between the structures sure look like the real thing.
KCSTrains
August 2017
Outstanding work. It does look very real. I really like your tree. I need to get some sage brush. Phil
Wes
August 2017
Oh my that is wonderful. That last pic is a real stunner.
ironmountainlumber
August 2017
Hey Steve,
This is absolutely stunning. There is so much to say about the scenery, the buildings the boat and the details. The pictures showing more of the the back drop your sister is painting adds to the overall feel of the build. What an amazing backdrop. Simply fantastic! Your layout is going to be a masterpiece.
Jim
KKarns
August 2017
Love that last shot Stephen!..the whole thing is “gelling” together wonderfully. Really nice job…lovin that white siding as I said before.
nextceo
August 2017
From a guy who likes landscaping, that area around your big tree is well done.
Thanks for sharing…
Alan
sdrees
August 2017
Thanks everybody for the nice comments. It finally is coming together. Now to pour the water.
sdrees
August 2017 edited August 2017
Here are the semi final photo’s of my version of Shelby’s Marine Service.
For the water, I painted the gator board base in various blue green tones at the beginning of the project. Once almost everything was complete I then built a dam around the front edge of the diorama using first masking tape, then strips of Strathmore board which I glued to the edge of the gator board. I then brushed on a thin coat of Evirotex to seal the dam useing Envirotex Lite and I also caulked some areas where it looked like leaks may occur. I poured it in 3 different layers about 1/8" thick. I then used a brush to stipple the Mod Podge on to add the texture to the Envirotex. As a final coat, I brushed on a water base varnish.
All comments are appreciated. If something doesn’t look right or could be improved, please let me know.
Karl.A
August 2017 edited August 2017
sdrees said:
All comments are appreciated. If something doesn’t look right or could be improved, please let me know.
After my first quick look through the pictures, and scrolling back and forth looking at them my major complaint would be that…
I cant study and enjoy this work up close and in person… such a great job…
I’m going back to scroll and stare for a while longer.
Karl.A
admin
August 2017
Outstanding job!
sdrees
August 2017
Karl, If you come to the Narrow Gauge convention in Denver, You will be able to look at it very up close. Thanks Brett, and Ed for you nice comments.
nextceo
August 2017 edited August 2017
Fantastic work…cant wait to see it on person in a few weeks. Can you give me a close up shot of the Couch Casting?
Alan
brownbr
August 2017
Impressive. You should be very proud of this project.
How do you think a couple of signs would look on the white building? There are a couple of walls that could support a splash of color.
KCSTrains
August 2017
Steve, tremendous work!!! I believe it’s a winner. Enjoy the convention. Phil
sdrees
August 2017
It might be to hard to add a sign properly to the building now brownbr. thanks Phil
ironmountainlumber
August 2017
This is amazing! Congratulations on an amazing build! So many elements that flow together perfectly. I hope to see more of your builds in the future.
Jim
sdrees
August 2017
Ed, you didn’t see the cat? It is there. After this Jim, I am going to return to working on the railroad for a while. I have 50 switch machines to install. Thanks!
KKarns
August 2017
Wonderful build Stephen! I gave it a once over and will be going back picture by picture…detail by detail…great job…more later
sdrees
August 2017
Here are some more pictures. It is hard to see the cat Ed, it is on the couch next to that guy sitting on it. And there are also lots of seagulls. There are also fish on the bait and tackle pier at the cleaning station and the guy who is bragging about the big one he caught.
nextceo
August 2017 edited August 2017
2nd to the last photo is my favorite. What a classic looking building…just out of curiosity, are those 2 windows on the second floor suppose to be different styles?
Karl.A
August 2017
I looked at that too Alan, then saw one window is half open giving a six pane appearance.
Definitly a great shot of a great structure.
Karl.A
nextceo
August 2017
Lol…you are correct Karl…
Joel
August 2017
Great work. Really a lovely model.
nextceo
August 2017 edited August 2017
Here is Steve’s Diorama at the NGC. It looks spectular in person. The White / Blue / Red combination of colors is catching everyone’s eyes.
!Well done!
Alan
Mario
September 2017
vietnamseabee
January 2019
Steve…I just finished reading thru your build of this kit…dang, what a great job…Brett just had this available as a pre-owned kit and I let it get away…seeing your build makes me want to Kick myself for not snapping it up…once again, great job and I enjoyed reading your build progress
Terry
sdrees
January 2019
Thanks Terry, the kit shows up every once in a while on the after market. Try FSM dot com
sdrees
March 2019
OK, let there be light. I am kicking myself in the butt for not doing this when it was under construction. And when I completed the build, I could not see all the remarkable details inside the boat shop.
I just completed adding lighting afterwards , it worked out very well without any major damage to the existing build.
I took some 3/32" x 1/4" strip wood and cut a slot in it where I place all the wires and so the top of the strip wood would be flush.
I wired the LED’s in parallel and added a current regulator diode to the circuit. Some people will tell you that you should not wire LED’s in parallel. YOu can find the pro’s and con’s on the internet. It works for me.
The LED fixtures were purchased from Bill’s Decals. The come all assembled with the leeds soldered to the LED and with the light shade. He used a stranded wire for the leeds instead of solid wire.
I then covered the top of the strip wood with 3M double coated adhesive transfer tape.
I was able to install the assembly in the ceiling of the boat shop with my fat fingers and not doing any major damage to the model. there are just a few minor repairs.
Now you can see the magnificent details inside the structure.
Joel
March 2019
What a great effect. Really get to appreciate the incredible interior.
Dave_S
March 2019
Steve,
What a great addition to the SWSM Shelby’s Marine Service boat house structure and diorama. Nice way to make the wiring inside the channel on the ceiling invisible. How did you conceal the wire down to the base of the structure? Or did you even attempt to? Inquiring minds would like to know.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
sdrees
March 2019
Dave, the wires were strategically placed so you could not see them.
kebmo
March 2019
wow! great effect.
brownbr
March 2019
Excellent results. Well worth the extra effort.
nextceo
March 2019
I’m so proud of you Steve…your wiring skills have come a long way. Looks Fantastic!
Alan
CarlLaskey
March 2019
Steve. Now you have me thinking that I should try it on mine, Great Job. …Carl…
sdrees
March 2019
Now you can see all those wonderful details hidden inside Brett. Alan, they have come a long way since Denver, because I didn’t have any wiring skills. So if I can do it, anybody can do it. And thanks Carl, Brownbr and Joel, and you to Dave.
sdrees
March 2019 edited March 2019
The name of the company for the lighting fixtures is Dave’s Decals
admin
March 2019
Fantastic! Lights make such a difference.
vietnamseabee
March 2019 edited March 2019
Steve…you’re always so humble about your modeling and now you’re electrical endeavors…well done, buddy
Dave also has some pretty nice decals
Terry
ironmountainlumber
March 2019
The lights are fantastic. All those nice details can now be seen!. I really like the bridge in the background too. What other treats do you have we cant see for your layout? Great modeling. Sometime try making some gooseneck lamps. They add a lot to models above doors ect.
Jim
KKarns
March 2019
Nice addition Stephen and great seeing this wonderful build again.
sulaw89
March 2019
The lighting really make this model pop! What a great idea, well worth the effort.
sdrees
March 2019
Thanks Jim and Ken. I have the tools to make gooseneck lamps so it is on my list of things to try.