This thread was started in November, 2013
Karl.A
November 2013 edited July 2021 in O Scale Builds
Back when Brett and I were working on the HO scale “Loco and Service Shop” kit and pilot model… (available now, kit #208 SierraWest Scale Models | HO Scale Loco and Service Shops ) I knew I wanted to build it in O Scale. The lines, the detail, the layout, everything about it was perfect in HO but it was just begged to be up-scaled.
As usually happens other things got in the way, I got side tracked by other projects, summer… etc.
I finally got started on the project a few months ago and have made some progress. As things seem to be relatively quiet around here on the forum just now I figured I would post some updates of where I am on this build for the members here who might enjoy seeing it progress through to a completed diorama.
As always with my builds here on the forum please join in with any comments, ideas, criticisms, questions and just general input to the thread. It’s always great to know that there is someone out there, following along.
I’m quite far along with many aspects of the build so the thread here will be playing catch up with me for a short while. This does not mean however that things are now ‘set in stone’. I am always more than willing to redo a finished item if there can be a significant improvement, so, jump in and join in.
The HO kit…
Karl.A
Comments
Mike Engler
November 2013
I am out here and following along.
Bryan_K
November 2013
Following along! Can’t wait to see how it turns out after seeing you Logging Camp Main Street upscale
Wes
November 2013
Sweet. Chair is pulled up, nice big bowl of popcorn in hand and a bucket of ice cold Coronas on the floor next to me. Looking forward to this.
Jerry
November 2013
Okay! Okay! I’m ready. Let’s not let the turkey get in the way of you starting!!!
Jerry
James
November 2013
I’ve always loved the look and feel of the HO kit. The Engine house, with its side bays, is very typical of the structures built locally and very evocative but simple. However, if SW ever produced an O Scale version of this kit, my family would finally slip into open rebellion (man… I haven’t even mentioned the Sawmill yet…)
Not sure how the exposed rafter ends work with a removable roof but if that is the case, it seems to work based on the photos…
Karl.A
November 2013
Not sure how the exposed rafter ends work with a removable roof but if that is the case, it seems to work based on the photos…
The roof boards and battens would be attached to the purlins. This creates flat panels that can either be glued down to the rafters or left loose and removable as panels.
Time to find some progress pics in the camera, back in a few…
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2013
Well, I thought I had taken progress pics of the walls being assembled but they are proving to be elusive tonight. Essentially I am following the sequence and techniques from the outstanding manual. Just with bigger wood…
To begin with I redrew the framing for the walls in CorelDraw and printed them off as templates. The walls were then built using stripwood precoloured with C&A. I used 408.3 for the framing.
The walls were then sided with 2x12’s. The strip wood was coloured with grey on one side for the exterior and 408.3 again for the inside. The peeling paint technique from the manual was used to achieve a weather beaten finish as below.
Although I knew the exterior would be painted I still added knots as I knew they would be visible on the inside and also I was hoping for some interesting effects through the paint, several are visible here.
I was pretty pleased with the way the effect came out.
Hopefully I can find some earlier pictures tomorrow when I have more time.
Karl.A
James
November 2013
The peeling paint and grey are perfect. Presumably this is a “hairspray” and light sanding method?
Wes
November 2013
You dont get much more realistic than that. WOW.
morganhillrr
November 2013
Amazing…Joe CCCModOn30
srankin6
November 2013
Looks great Karl…looking forward to the build
Karl.A
November 2013
Thanks for looking in and the posts James, Wes, Joe and Scott, good to have you along.
… Presumably this is a “hairspray” and light sanding method?
James, this is actually the mineral spirits and tape method as described in the manual. It’s a fantastic technique and very controllable with some practice. Which makes it applicable to HO as well as the larger scales.
Sanding would give a more worn/faded look due to the abrasion as opposed to a lifted/peeled look with the tape.
Karl.A
ironmountainlumber
November 2013
Hi Karl,
Happy Thanksgiving!
Outstanding build. The peeled paint effect is superb. The knotholes definitely add more character.
Do you plan to use the water tower and oil tank you built previously in this diorama ? Those models were simply amazing.
Jim
Karl.A
November 2013
Thanks Jim, and a happy thanksgiving to you and everyone else.
Yes the watertank, oiltank and sand house are destined for this diorama. I will do a quick recap of those builds here for the members who haven’t seen them.
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2013
Karl.A
Karl.A
November 2013
Well that’s a quick preview of the walls, I’ll either find some more tomorrow after work or I’ll just snap some new ones.
Although the Oil Tank is pretty much finished as previously mentioned and several of you have already seen it, here is a recap of the build as it happened for those members who haven’t seen it.
The basic form for the Oil Tank is a section of PVC tubing. Sizing for this was based on the HO version.
The support framework could then be built.
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
Looking great Karl…if possible could you describe the peeling paint method , or point me to the thread that discibes it?I can’t work in ho scale anymore so can’t enjoy those great kits.Love working in o though so all is not lost.
looking forward to the rest of the build keep up the great modeling
Scott
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks Scott, I’ll see what I can dig up for you.
I used some .005 styrene to make the metal sheets of the boiler. Rivets were added with a pounce wheel.
The styrene was glued with epoxy and held in position with rubber bands. A very messy business !
I had to install some spacers on the ends to avoid a taper on the next sheets.
The outside panels were added in the same way.
The dome was made from a smaller pipe found in the garage.
Wrapped with riveted styrene as before. I found some furniture sliders of
the right diameter for the rounded ends of the tank and dome
Test fit.
Next up was the flanges, gluing the components together,
clean up and a coat of paint.
Karl.A
James
December 2013
Very cool! - I had no idea one could could make rivets with a pounce wheel- or tank ends from furniture sliders!
Joel
December 2013
So excited about this build. The “shops” are screaming to be upsized and there is no one better suited for the challenge. I will be watching, and learning…
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks for stopping in James and Joel, and for the kind words, good to hear from you both.
I’ll post another update shortly, I’m kinda rushing through these so as not to bore the folks that have seen it before but feel free to slow me down and ask a question if you have one.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Some flanges were made from more styrene and rivets added. One for the main dome and one for the filler pipe.
I also made a couple of round plates, not sure what these are for but I’ve seen them on tanks so I made them…
image
Everything was epoxied together and all the epoxy ooze and finger prints were cleaned off when dry ready to paint.
image
The tank was painted with cheap rattle can spray paint from Home Depot, 99c can and very fine coverage.
image
image
I then started working on the piping, Some were adapted from the SierraWest castings and some were made from scratch.
image
Some more progress on the pipe fittings.
image
More later.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
I noticed while studying Chuck Doans incredible model (shown below) that the tank fill tube was not just a simple pipe, it had some interesting detail and shape.
I set about re-creating this by adapting a SW elbow casting.
I added a copper sleeve spacer around the nipple and then filed the nipple down considerably.
I placed the 1/8" brass tube in my dremel and turned it using a jewelers file to obtain a “waist” in the pipe.
When fully assembled I was happy with the look that it gave to the fill valve.
I next moved on to making some brackets from sheet brass to hold the dispensing pipework away from the platform.
Unfortunately these are not visble from most angles, however the bands around the pipe are, and atleast I know they are there !
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013
The next step in construction was building the pump house.
Various elements of the piping were then test fitted.
Some more brackets and things were made from brass sheet.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited July 2017
The tank needed to be balanced at a precarious angle ontop of a container and a bottle of glue to keep it in position until the glue on the chain dried.
Next up was to make the access ladders for the tank platform and up to the dome.
A lampshade was added with a scale light bulb to the pump house.
That is how it will sit until it gets installed on the diorama and the tank gets weathered and everything gets touched up and blended in to the scene.
Next up will be the water tank…
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
fantastic…every time I read the threads I learn something …turn brass in a dremel…wow
Karl tank looks fantastic. Can’t wait for more
James
December 2013
Beautiful - almost overwhelming (of course as u mentioned u haven’t built this all in the last few days! - please tell me u haven’t ! ) So many questions - did u set up a jig for those ladders? They look fantastic- keeping the rungs square would be tough. Love the lock - is it a photo- etched detail? The piping is great. People have to remember that even in o scale these are really small details. I guess one can’t have enough K&S tubing and sheet material bits lying around!
AlanG
December 2013
Beautiful job - is there any way others of us can obtain ‘O’ plans to do a similar model?
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks Scott, James and Alan, I really appreciate your posts.
I’ll start posting the water tank this evening Scott.
James, the tank took a little under a week. There wasn’t a jig for the ladders, in the past I have made the rungs round as they should be, this time I got lazy. The padlock is a CHB detail part.
Alan I have bought HO kits and copied the templates at 181% to get O scale dimensions for scratch building.
Till later,
Karl.A
AlanG
December 2013
Thanks Karl. Exactly what l was thinking of doing but just thought worth asking just in case there was another way …
My eyesight is not up to the ‘small stuff’ these-days but the headband magnifier will just have to come into much use so to hell with it. The debit card will be hard hit in the next few weeks what with the sawmill coming out as well!
Oh well should keep our lord and master in funds for a little while longer.
Best regards
Alan
Karl.A
December 2013
I started the water tank by building the support frame work. Colouring is all C&A, 408.5.
Next I added the walk boards and some preliminary weathering.
Now that the base was built I could move onto the tank itself.
Unfortunately now I was tied into a tank diameter dictated by the base, this diameter was 2 3/8"… dangit !! Not a common size for PVC piping at home depot, so an alternative was needed.
Karl.A
Fitmanb
December 2013
I’m a newbie round here and am wondering how you get that colour with 408.5 - mine comes out way darker. more brown than yellow or is it a trick of the camera lens?
Karl.A
December 2013
Welcome to the forum Fitmanb (real name?) good to have you joining.
I colour 4 or 5 pieces of wood at a time with the 408.5 and a wash of alcohol. While they are still wet I draw them through a soft cloth (old sock) a couple of times. This does a few things.
It removes a lot of those remaining ‘fuzzies’ that are so annoying.
It lightens the colour to a degree by removing heavy chalk coatings from the wood surface.
It makes the grain stand out a little more by leaving more chalk in the grooves.
It’s a tactile process that can vary greatly dependant on pressure applied and the amount of drawing done. You will quickly get a feel for how much to do after a couple of boards. Of course if you take off too much chalk in the process and are unhappy when it dries you can quickly repeat the C&A colouring process and start again with nothing lost but a little time.
Have fun with it, we look forward to your posts.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Brett and I had several ideas on how to make the tank core, several were tried and failed. In the end Brett came up with the idea of laser cutting some circles from corrugated card and glueing them together in a stack.
This worked out perfectly (as long as the stack was perfectly true, which took two attempts…
Once the core was dry it was laminated with 8x2 boards, these were applied using a square to ensure they were perfectly verticle.
Prior to construction the boards were coloured with 408.5 on the bottom and 704.5 on the top as with the HO pilot model. After construction this was touched up and blended in the middle to give the faded aged effect.
A quick test fit to make sure I was happy before proceeding.
The top was added and an access hatch. The hinges were made from styrene and the handle some brass wire.
Time to find and/or make some hardware details for the tank.
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
Karl,
tank looks great ,love the hinges, tank top coloring is superb… great job as usual,can’t wait for more.
Scott
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks Scott, appreciate the comments.
I cut some styrene rod to length and attached them to a framework. This allowed me to spray the styrene with black paint evenly.
A hole was drilled in the tank and the styrene was superglued in. Once dry the styrene was wrapped around the tank and the other end glued into the hole.
This was then repeated.
Turnbuckles were added over the join in the bands.
The spout support started to be built.
The fill pipe and valve were made, along with several pipe brackets and connections.
Next up will be the spout.
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
Looks great Karl! Better than reading the morning paper
Scott
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
Thanks Scott, good to have someone following along.
I’ll finish the water tank up in the next post. The sand house wont take but a couple of updates and then… it’s onto the new and exciting stuff.
Karl.A
James
December 2013
took me a while to figure out how you did the hoops - then I realized you cut the turnbuckles in half!
Karl.A
December 2013
Yep James, the back of the turnbuckles was filed away with a round file so that they would fit over the bands snugly, thanks for stopping in.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
I really wasn’t happy with the grandtline spout that I had ordered so I decided I would have to scratch build one from what I had on hand.
Because I had built my tank slightly differently than Chuck I needed to remove
some of the platform so that the spout would fit lower.
Next on the menu was adding all the spout hardware. I had to make 9 miniature eyebolts to attach the chains to the various points.
It took a while to get all the lengths and linkages correct but it was worth the effort.
Karl.A
Karl.A
December 2013 edited December 2013
I was stuck at this point as I didn’t have a picture of the details on top of the tank. I e:mailed Chuck Doan and he very kindly uploaded several pictures of his incredible modeling for me to look at.
Thanks Chuck.
The crank detail which opens and closes the valve to let the water flow.
The gauge and float pully which shows the water level in the tank.
Onwards to the sand house.
Karl.A
srankin6
December 2013
Karl,
Can’t say it enough… great modeling…and a thank you for all the additions to my cheat sheet on how to do it. Great tips for this modeler!
Thanks
Scott
KKarns
December 2013
Karl, Catching up on the O scale builds. Geesh!..your work here is simply superb. Scratch building in itself is an art form and your detailing on this project is stellar, a one of a kind piece. Thanks for taking the time to document it for us. Ken
James
December 2013
Yes it’s great to see a scratch build like this laid out. It is always somewhat magical to see a builder’s imagination bring everyday objects and stock bits to life
James
December 2013
Out of curiosity - how does the gauge and float pulley work (on the real thing)?
Karl.A
December 2013
As the float in the tank rises with the water the pointer on the outside goes down.
The gauge is marked with lowest number at the top and highest on the bottom.
Karl.A
davej
December 2013
wow Karl
looks great. Love the little scratchbuilt piping details. May have to start building in a larger scale as my eyes are having more trouble dealing with HO now.
cheers
Dave
ironmountainlumber
December 2013
Hi Karl,
I have to echo James’s and Dave’s comments. This is really some amazing work. The fabricated parts are superb!
Jim
Joel
December 2013
Karl,
What a treat to follow along and watch this amazing build. It is incredible what you can create with basic tools and simple household stuff (if you are brilliantly talented) - luckily there are Sierra West kits for the rest of us mortals.
Seriously - amazing work Karl
Jerry
December 2013
Karl I’ve seen your work in person and I’ve seen it here and on RR Line.
But your chain and link work is just beyond words!! Just excellent craftsmanship!!
Jerry
Karl.A
January 2014
Thanks to you all for the very kind words, really appreciate them all, apologies for the delay in responding.
A few pics of the sand house tonight and then I should be moving forward with the rest of the build, new stuff!!
Not really thrilled with how it turned out but I’m living with it for now, I do
see a rebuild of it in the future though… probably.
Karl.A
morganhillrr
January 2014
Hey Karl: Also looks good to me. I really like those door sliding hinges; are they available separately? Thanks, Joe CCCModOn30
Karl.A
January 2014
Thanks for the input Scott and Joe…
Right you are Scott, the roof is just way too plain and uniform. Being a sand house the roof needs to appear to be in good condition to keep the sand dry. As you say though, that doesn’t mean we can’t weather it up a little and give it some interest, thanks!!
Karl.A
JohnM
February 2014
Karl,
This is looking really great - the project has carryover into areas we are all working on so I hope you have the time to get back into it.
Respectfully,
John
LSNRwyAl
February 2014
Absolutely gorgeous!
Karl.A
September 2015
Well It has certainly been some time since I updated this thread, but, now is a good time with the NNGC2015 over with.
So here are some updated pics of the build so far.
I’ll go back and post pics of the build process over the next week or so.
Karl.A
admin
September 2015 edited September 2015
This is a fantastic model deserving of all the accolades even if Karl is quite the humble guy! At the 2015 Houston Narrow Gauge Convention, Karl won second place in the diorama category, and Karl won the prestigious Mt. Albert Award. This award is selected by Mt. Albert as the model best demonstrating outstanding craftsmanship with stripwood. The list of prior year Mt Albert winners is a who’s who of the modeling world we all know and love including our friends Dave Revelia and Brian Nolan. Pretty darn good company brother! I had the pleasure of watching this dio come together over the last couple years and am most impressed with the way Karl translated his research into a scale model scene. Looking forward to more posts with construction pics!
KKarns
September 2015
Simply outstanding Karl!..both conceptually and and in your execution. This will (is) one of those builds we will constantly come back to for ideas and inspiration. The seven images you posted are surely just the cusp of what we expect to see…Indulge us and give us images progressively from the outside to the inside of this baby…spare no details.
Congrats on the hardware you received and trust you had a good time at the convention. Well done. Ken
morganhillrr
September 2015
Hey Karl: WOW, just incredible! Congrats on your awards, well deserved…Joe CCCModOn30
sdrees
September 2015
Karl,
If I was one of the judges, I would have given you a First Place. Your modeling is the best.
Steve
Karl.A
September 2015
Thanks Brett. It was indeed a great honor to receive the Mt Albert award. Being judged by your peers and another modeler was much more satisfying and rewarding than the popular vote side.
Thanks very much for your comments Ken, Joe and Steve.
Yes Ken I have revived my Loco thread and will be updating with old progress pictures up to this point, thanks for your continued interest and support.
Karl.A
Mike Engler
September 2015 edited September 2015
This is high on the list of best models I have ever seen, and that is quite a large number as I have studied a lot of them over the years. The colouring and weathering of everything in the structure from walls to windows and doors to the nine million details and their placement is incredible.I spent a lot of my time in Houston admiring (drooling over) this diorama.
I vote this “Best of all the Shows in the last 5 years” which is all I can remember.
There were a lot of pics taken of this so we’ll try to get some of them posted here. One from my cell phone attached.
Congratulations and well done Karl.
Karl.A
September 2015 edited September 2015
Thanks very much Mike for those extremely kind words. It was great to spend time with you and talk modeling amongst other things.
Karl.A
September 2015
Here are some nice photos taken by John Siekirk when we took the diorama outside and balanced it on a bollard in the daylight for some pictures. Thanks for the photos John and kind words, it was great to get together with you at the show.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2015 edited September 2015
Just keeps getting better and better Karl. That small horizontal air tank is just wonderful. Amazing detail work…can’t say enough…
Ken
Mike Engler
September 2015 edited September 2015
As you will see John can get much better closeups with his camera, but here are several more angles to see Karl’s great model. More later.
brownbr
September 2015
That sure turned out nice.
MuddyCreekRR
September 2015
Wow…just plain Wow…
Karl.A
September 2015
Mike, thanks so much for posting these pics, I really need to get the thing back outside and take some for myself, I’m just enjoying looking at yours and the others right now. Hard to believe they are phone pics.
I’ll step back in tomorrow with some shots of my own now that I am back home…
In a day or two I’ll backtrack with progress and interior shots… pls keep posting yours.
Thanks for the comments Bryan and Muddy, very appreciated.
Karl.A
Coors2u
September 2015
Karl, this is definitely one of those perfect 10 models. My hat goes off to you. From what I’ve seen so far it really does rank up there with some of the best models. The stack of pallets is one thing that really stands out to me. I see these everyday at my job and yours looks no different. That to me is where you take this model to a realistic state.
Simply amazing.
MikeM
September 2015
This thing is so good it makes reality look like it’s missing some details!
nextceo
September 2015
Yep…saved every picture to my computer so I can use them for ideas on future builds. Just Awesome…
Alan
Karl.A
September 2015
Thanks for all the great positive comments guys. Some in progress shots of the inside.
image
Karl. A
MitchN
September 2015 edited September 2015
Karl,
Congratulations on your award. It is a beautiful model.
Maybe you could share your finishing techniques to get such convincing rust on the wheels I see in your pictures. I see black and brown but there seems to be blue in there too. It may be from the picture and not from the model when you see it in person. How do you do it?
Best regards,
Mitch
Wes
September 2015
Hi Karl
I spend some time away and come back to see this wonderful piece of work. Well done my friend. I absolutely love it.
My question is, how did this only place second in the diorama category?
Really inspirational stuff buddy.
Mike Engler
September 2015
There are no judges at the National Narrow Gauge Conventions model contests. It has been that way for 35 years. Contest winners are determined by popular vote, and in past years “Best of Show” was a category that voters voted for. Not sure how “Best of Show” was selected this year, since it was not on the ballot. Perhaps the model receiving most votes of all the categories. That wouldn’t be a good way if some categories were closely contested- the winner of such a category might not have nearly as many votes as a virtually uncontested category.
Eligible voters included registered attendees, spouses (free), vendors and spouses, free convention staff members, layout tour and modular layout volunteers. While many voters are highly qualified, many of the voters have never built a model. Popular vote is what it is. Whimsical, caricature, artsy, cute- all are eligible. It isn’t apples to apples.
If anybody had a better way it probably would have been tried by now. The NMRA has forever used a judging system where each model is scored as to “Finish and lettering”, “Scratchbuilding”, and four other criteria. Points are awarded so that a model could score up to 125 points. This may be considered a fairer system, but it can be flawed and also has its detractors.
Hey- this forum is about modeling- forgive my rambling.
Karl.A
September 2015 edited September 2015
Thanks for the explanation Mike, definitely not rambling and very informative for those that go to shows, thanks for taking the time and effort to explain.
Thanks also for the other comments by everyone else, they are appreciated..
A quick peek inside… more later.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2015 edited September 2015
Karl, That first pic is the money shot! That one image paints a very clear picture of the entire thing…oozzzing top notch, quality and well thought out fine scale modeling, simply brilliant!..Ken
Karl.A
September 2015 edited September 2015
Thanks for those kind words Ken.
Lets have a look along the outside of the front wall, then, we can take it off and go inside.
Wall on.
The water tank with a pump (not plumbed in yet) which supplies the boiler. Note the hanging axes and splitting wedge on the wall/barrel. Also there’s a shovel leaning agains the post for removing the ash but is hard to see in this angle.
The boiler maintenance area, with air tank and various maintenance tools. (not completely detailed yet.)
A small general work area for minor repairs, note the handcart having a wheel replaced on the bench. General log car clutter, brake cylenders, brake shoes, log bunks, springs, etc..
The end of the front wall and delivery doors for the machine shop. Note the cable reels,red barrel and ladder are positioned to hold the front wall tight in place.
A general junk pile of old car parts. also some old ties and rails to be reused elsewhere. Notice the old ties have oil and rust marks and spike holes from their previous use.
The front wall was designed to be removed for viewing of the interior. To do this seamlessly several details were attached to the wall. a) so they didn’t obscure the view and b) so that when the wall is in place they key in and make the join invisible.
Removed wall…
View from the front with entire front wall removed and boiler roof. the section of wall behind the boiler is a separate section which is keyed into the workbench and yellow barrel and the top is locked in place by the boiler roof to make it all tight and seamless.
Now that the front wall is off we can go in for a closer look at the machine shop and engine room later.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2015
Karl, had no idea the front wall was removable…genius my man. The details are incredible. Love all the can labels…Oh and if you don’t give that blue foam board a coat of paint I’m going to come down there and do it myself!
So, so nice Karl…
Karl.A
September 2015
Thanks for the continued kind words Ken. I took the wall off several times at the show for peope to take pics and see better, I should have just left it off for viewing. Mike Engler suggested this but it was already late in the last day.
As for the blue foam edge, at 1230 am just before heading off on the 8 hr drive to the show I made and painted the frame for it to be seen at the show. If you look at mikes great pics on the previous page you can see this frame/finished edge.
I took it off again when I got home, don’t forget this dio is only 50-75% finished. But, I wanted to show it anyway.
Thanks again, more pics later.
Karl.A
KKarns
September 2015
Karl, you’re working too hard…loosing your sense of humor!..I’m just messin with you regarding painting the foam, trying to find something to poke at you about because there certainly isn’t anything in the diorama to use. A real honor to have such a great response and you aren’t even done with it yet. Will await more images…Ken
brownbr
September 2015
The shots of the interior from front to back show an amazing depth to them. All of the scenes look extremely realistic.
Ojaste
September 2015
Karl,
I close my eyes, put my hands together against my chin and reverently bend at the waist to the Almighty modeller. A wise man understands humility and I think you have just reached that level in your lifetime.
Great work!
Bill
September 2015
Karl-
Honestly, I had forgotten that you were working on this project and then I saw some pictures from the NNGC.
Damn! Simply incredible! To say that you’ve set a new standard would be an understatement. So much to see and digest within every inch of this model and it all comes together flawlessly.
Even using the most critical nit-picky eye I can muster, I’m hard pressed to spot anything in need of the smallest alteration. Scale, color, texture, highlights, shadows…
You nailed it!
Since we all are our own worst critics, maybe it’d be best to ask where you aren’t satisfied with the results (if such an area exists). Forget contests or awards…just personal evaluation so far.
I too am at a loss trying to explain how this is not a “Best In Show” model.
SMH
nextceo
September 2015
Super awesome Karl. Just to follow up on an email I sent you, how did you get the neat affect on the bed of the Wheel Barrow?
Alan
Joel
November 2015
Amazing work.
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Thanks for all the very kind words indeed. Sorry its been awhile on the update.
Here’s a few progress shots of the back wall. I’ll try and find some earlier ones, but these can do for now.
Great question Bill, I’ll throw in comments as the pictures move around when I get past the progress shots.
One thing in these shots I would change but I cant get back to it now I don’t think, the fire extinguisher should have a label on it but I couldn’t find a suitable one so I moved on. Wish I hadn’t now.
Karl.A
nextceo
February 2016
Wow…amazing detail! Spent 20 minutes studying your pictures. How did this not win at the NNGC??
Ojaste
February 2016
Geez!
sdrees
February 2016
Karl,
This work is fantastic, you are a master of creativity and the detail man.
Steve
Jerry
February 2016
Your attention to detail is beyond exceptional.
Jerry
KCSTrains
February 2016
Karl, great, great work. I also like the fact that this is O scale so I an concentrate on each individual piece and study the weathering effect. Very instructive when you view this in light of your casting tutorial. It all makes sense and shows that practice and repetition makes perfect. Thanks for sharing. Phil
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Thanks for the nice comments guys, really appreciated.
In the following pic the bench and two shelf units to the left were painted beautifully by Ken. I added a few labels, darkened them down a bit to match the surrounding items and then weathered them to match and blend with everything else. There are some more of Kens castings dotted around inside the shop. Thanks Ken.
Karl.A
brownbr
February 2016
VERY impressive
Bill
February 2016
Organized clutter to a T! That is–the shop’s a mess, but in a logical order.
I love how you’ve obviously put yourself into the scene and asked “what would belong here?” It’s evident that, just like in real life, virtually every reachable space has been put to good and logical use (a rack of clamps, a selection of sledges and axes, an assortment of files & hand tools and rows of pulleys–all in their place, but not too neatly).
I can’t quit looking at this one:
Even a selection of stencils and spilled paint!
Wonderful work!
Karl.A
February 2016
Thanks indeed Bryan.
Great comments Bill, indeed, ALOT of time went into making sure the right items were in the right areas on this, and logical. As this is the carshop all the details are carparts or tools to repair/rebuild. The items scattered on the track next to the disconnect are actually all the parts needed to rebuild the disconnect which has been stripped down for redecking. The stencils on the bench have been used and are drying, there is a box of new ones under the bench, also the bench is at the end of the shopline which is when the painting would be done after everything is finished. The tin of nails on the disconnect is filled with individual scale nails, and back to the other end you have to climb the ladder in order to be able to read the sign at the top which warns of the dangers of climbing ladders.. just a few points to note.
This one wall took 2 months to arrange, rearrange, plan and get the right things looking right together, and looking good from all angles, to get to the point below.
Karl.A
morganhillrr
February 2016
The Master at work, no one does it better…Joe CCCModOn30
Mike Engler
February 2016
Alan: I posted this after the show:
"There are no judges at the National Narrow Gauge Conventions model contests. It has been that way for 35 years. Contest winners are determined by popular vote, and in past years “Best of Show” was a category that voters voted for. Not sure how “Best of Show” was selected this year, since it was not on the ballot. Perhaps the model receiving most votes of all the categories. That wouldn’t be a good way if some categories were closely contested- the winner of such a category might not have nearly as many votes as a virtually uncontested category.
Eligible voters included registered attendees, spouses (free), vendors and spouses, free convention staff members, layout tour and modular layout volunteers. While many voters are highly qualified, many of the voters have never built a model. Popular vote is what it is. Whimsical, caricature, artsy, cute- all are eligible. It isn’t apples to apples.
If anybody had a better way it probably would have been tried by now. The NMRA has forever used a judging system where each model is scored as to “Finish and lettering”, “Scratchbuilding”, and four other criteria. Points are awarded so that a model could score up to 125 points. This may be considered a fairer system, but it can be flawed and also has its detractors.
Hey- this forum is about modeling- forgive my rambling."
Karl is a good friend and one of a very few “hero” modelers I try to emulate. His model was one of the best I have ever seen- in fact I can’t think of a better one.
I am convention chairman of the 2018 National Narrow Gauge Convention to be held in Minneapolis, and our planning committee has already begun addressing this issue. Our solution may not be perfect but you can count on it being well thought out, and with the input of some highly competent contest experts.
I am glad to see that Karl is showing us more of this incredible work, and I hope more of you will be able to see it in person one day.
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Thanks Joe, very appreciated.
Thanks very much Mike, very special words coming from such a great modeler that I admire and look up to.
Here are some of the earlier pics of the first wall. as you can see many details were tried and discarded, or moved. The wall itself was detailed flat on the bench with the tools and smaller items, it was propped up to test and try out larger items that would be sat on the floor. The wall evolved as much as it was designed. The items on the wall had to correspond to the items below or on the floor. The items on the floor had to not obscure the hanging items, things not only had to be placed to create specific work areas with specific tools and details but also in such away as to be astetically pleasing and viewable.
Spaces between areas had to be filled up logically with many items in the same way.
There was no way I wanted to just throw in a bunch of castings to fill up space, everything had to have a reason and a purpose, anal maybe, time consuming most definitely, finding the right item of the right size/colour/shape/purpose to populate the area while all blending together well without looking over cluttered for the sake of it, busy but believable was what I was aiming for, lots of research for everything, down to what tools on what bench and what was on the wall behind it. Was it worth it? I think so.
Some things were definite from the beginning, such as the bench/shelf far left, and the paint/finish bench far right. These two anchor points allowed me to build from there, trying placement. trying items and coming up with real reasons to work the space between, the how and why.
Notice the paint on the stencils is only around the holes and not just all over the stencil… also paint chips on the vice and oil can. every detail is completed like this, even though most wont be seen, I think it gives a subconscious overall effect.
The bench was still being worked on in this pic and hasn’t been weathered or blended yet.
After playing around with various ladders as seen in the previous pics I built this tapered one based on a research pic I saw. The tapered top intrudes less on the details on the wall while stil giving some overall heft to the item even though it is see through which leaves the items behind open for viewing.
All of the tools throughout the shop are weathered and finished to foreground quality, the hammer handles were weathered with chalk to dirty them up later. Also notice the fancy angle brackets holding up the shelf (stolen from the incredible Oscale sawmill kit).
This is probably the only shot in which they are really visible with the bolt heads and braces.
‘C’ clamps - some up, some down for variety and interest also not all lined up perfectly, as they wouldn’t be in the real world, just hangin casually where the weight pulls them.
Hinges and window stays on the dirty windows and the ladder ‘safety’ sign, at the top of the ladder.
Pics of the second wall in progress tomorrow.
Thanks
Karl.A
Jerry
February 2016
Karl what did you use for the window panes?
Jerry
Karl.A
February 2016
The acetate that Brett uses in his kits Jerry.
Karl.A
dick52
February 2016
Excellent craftsmanship indeed. I am new to the discussions here and I have admired this kind of beautiful work for years since I got into the hobby many years ago. The one question I have and it may seem out there but I must ask . Where do all these detail parts such as the clamps, wrenches etc. come from ? I know Brett sells some of the details among other sources , I know that without this kind of detail these fine models can,t really come to life , can someone lead to these sources so I can try to bring my work come to life .
Karl.A
February 2016
Thanks Dick,
All of the detail parts are SierraWest, why use anything but the best, no comparison.
Many of the benches and shelves are scratched from wood, but again, populated and finished with SierraWest detail parts. A few specific details were scratched from brass or whatever such as the hand oil pump on top of the 55 gal drum. I think the air compressor and portable air tank are the only things not SierraWest.
So 99% pure SierraWest.
Karl.A
dick52
February 2016
Thank you Karl for that information .Yes why use anything else but the best ,
Dick
Karl.A
February 2016
Exactly Dick.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Second wall gets put in place, (not glued just clamped) and start planning out details again.
brownbr
February 2016
That shop is a workman’s comp claim waiting to happen.
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Nah, ‘safe as houses’ Bryan… besides, no workers comp out in the woods…
Workin on sorting out some more pics, hopefully ready later.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Wall 2… the first section.
Karl.A
dick52
February 2016
Thanks Karl for posting all the great pictures of your work in progress along the way to the fine finished structure . It is why I can say it teaches me as well as others on how to achieve the quality you have mastered. I have a binder full of pictures and articles showing the work of many great builders that I admire along with your building and it makes me strive to do better , keep it coming . I recently finished a SW kit and when I muster up some courage I will post a photo of it .
Dick
brownbr
February 2016
Wow Karl. I hope this turns out to be a pilot for a new kit!
Nice custom built hand drill on top of the work bench. I know you are all about “taking it to the next level” so maybe you should put some threads on the end of the “drill bit”.
Karl.A
February 2016
Thanks for the comments Richard and thanks for starting a thread with your build, great to see.
Thanks Bryan, if you enlarge the pic and look closely you will see that the drill bit is indeed ‘threaded’.
However its a casting, so I cant take that credit on making it.
Incidentally, that bench was greatly inspired by the one shown below by Dave Revelia in his 1/16 engine shop.
Karl.A
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
With the first work area pretty much finalized planning wise, time to move on to show the crane area. The crane was based on Chuck Doans from his loco shop which is based on one in a foundry, both of these resources were used to build mine from various pictures.
This wall was planned and replanned kinda simultaneously between the three main areas to ensure a good flow and visibility, which is why some finished items seem to appear and disappear… again, this second wall was a two month process.
Generic details were placed along the back of the wall in the car shop to plan how they would interact. The only wall glued down is the back car shop wall throughout.
A mock up of the crane was made to guage size and impact.
Once the size was determined the entire wall was removed and detail planning began.
The wall was taken in and out many times to make sure it blended with the area behind. Again, specific details were used pertaining to the crane and hoisting hardware.
Time to make the crane proper, scratched based on the proto photos and using SWSM castings to complete.
A quick test fit to determine positioning..
Notice the pully block, taken apart and being worked on on the bench…
Also notice the bars which have items hanging on them are rusty at the ends but kinda shiny in the middle where items would rub along them, simple, subtle, but I think effective.
Time to cut a hole in the floor for the ‘cement’ base.
Coloured the plaster base and the area is essentially finished until returned to later.
Onto the third final area of the second wall…
Karl.A
nextceo
February 2016
Awesome Karl…how did you make that plaster base…was it a casting or a mold or something else?
Karl.A
February 2016
Thanks Alan, for the base I cast a square of plaster. Once dry I sanded the sides to a pleasing angle with sandpaper.
Karl.A
Bill
February 2016 edited February 2016
Killer stuff, Karl! I love being able to watch your thought process as the project progresses. I hope everyone caught the way you test placing castings and details while still in a raw state. My guess is that you left them natural because the weathering came AFTER you were certain of the permanent placement. For example: the hand tools. The coloring would be darker if they’d end up in a box or under a bench because they’d be in shadow. Will they be off to the side of a storage rack? Then perhaps those will show less wear because they are used less and set off to the side.
Of course, the other possibility is that you just got to excited, had an idea for something, and tossed them into the scene prior to coloring to get a sense of if the idea is plausible.
No matter…this is a fascinating glimpse “inside the Modeler’s studio”!
Oh yeah…here’s a big take away from the page 7:
There was no way I wanted to just throw in a bunch of castings to fill up space, everything had to have a reason and a purpose, anal maybe, time consuming most definitely, finding the right item of the right size/colour/shape/purpose to populate the area while all blending together well without looking over cluttered for the sake of it
That paragraph right there is the real secret behind great modeling. I don’t find it “anal” at all. That’s how you make the leap from “contrived” to “convincing”. If you can seriously adopt that mindset when taking on a project, you’ll end up with these striking results. For me, this has added a whole new level of enjoyment to the hobby. It’s one thing to copy the work of another modeler and end up with a decent model. BUT…there’s a certain thrill I experience when I find a prototypical photo that matches up with what my mind’s eye is creating. Using that photo, I’ve got a “blueprint” that’ll take my Sierra West kit (the BEST in the hobby) and help make it uniquely mine. Unlike Brett’s original vision, Brian Nolan’s interpretation, Karl’s, Ken’s etc etc etc.
At the risk of thread jacking…I’ll share some examples. A couple years ago I stopped working on Quincy’s. I knew I wanted to put a different twist on it but couldn’t decide which way to go…just wasn’t feeling it. Then I stumbled onto this picture–one that, to me, looked like what the interior of Quincy’s Salvage repair shop would have been:
I incorporated the high storage rack for the tires, the angled support, the tool display and other stuff in this unfinished pic:
This:
was the inspiration for this:
I also enjoy giving pictures a second look–to see beyond the subject of the photograph or what the photographer WANTED you to see. For example, somebody took a picture of these log buggies. I get it…it’s a consist of log buggies chained down with a pair of straps on each one:
But look deeper into the picture. Did you see the little hand cranks on top that tighten the chains to secure the lumber? I also noticed something on the third and fourth buggies…it seemed like the longer boards on the bottom are kind of sagging. I dug around and found some other similar pictures that confirmed my suspicion. So I incorporated that idea like this:
Here’s another. At first glance in this shot, you see stacks of fresh cut lumber stacked four bundles high:
But wait…look again. Yeah, it’s fresh lumber–looks like we’re in a lumber yard. Looks like it’s all the exact same kind of wood. Probably pine. But there are a LOT of differences. Some boards look like they still have the bark on the edges. Some are really light, and some are a lot darker. Some line up perfectly, while there are some sticking out farther than the others. Those subtle differences look like this when modeled:
Dang! So much for NOT trying to thread-jack! But, I wanted to expand on what Karl verbalized. Honestly, this mindset is really helpful to solving modeling “problems” and adds so much more fun to the construction process. That “a-ha” moment is similar to the thrill of finding some long retired kit at a ridiculous buy-it-now price on eBay!
dick52
February 2016
You are so correct on what you say Bill, it pays to look all around and see the details that are before you and use that in all your builds . I have taken all kinds of photos of track , piles of junk, old buildings etc just for ideas to use . Of course studying the great work shown here also helps . After looking closely at Karl,s engine house I was drawn to a detail that I was curious about, that being what appears to be a cardboard barrel in front of the workbench, is that a hand made or is it a purchased item, if so who by .
Richard
Karl.A
February 2016
Excellent points and thoughts Bill, along with the photos and modeling, Nice catch on the handcrank, an awesome detail. Indeed I spent months looking at thousands of photos, of all eras and loco/machine/foundry shops. Paying more attention to backgrounds than anything else, what was under the benches, on the floor, hanging on walls, how, etc, etc. And not just details, but, construction, layout, positioning, and so on.
Cardboard barrel Richard? where?
Karl.A
dick52
February 2016
I could be wrong on my description but in the photos showing how you stage your benches with all the detail there is a barrel in front of the bench with what appears to be a Penzoil logo on it , also it is shown in the phot showing some of the details by themselves. The top of the item in question has what appears to be 2 rings around the top as if it is the type that would have a locking lid . This would not be the first time I could be wrong .
KKarns
February 2016
One of my earlier responses to Karl’s build here that begs for a repeat…
“Karl, That first pic is the money shot! That one image paints a very clear picture of the entire thing…oozzzing top notch, quality and well thought out fine scale modeling, simply brilliant!..Ken”
Karl.A
February 2016 edited July 2017
Thanks for the kind words Ken, esp coming from you.
I spotted a hand oil pump in the background of a proto photo while I was researching and I wanted one in my shop, different and unusual, rarely seen and a great fine detail.
Parts turned from brass rod.
The hand pump installed on the blue and white barrel, Also notice the sawhorses all have nail holes where they should be.. (as do the pallets)
And that finished off the basic (not so basic) detailing of the second wall 'til I returned to it later in the build.
Karl.A
sdrees
February 2016
Karl,
Are you taking this to the Expo next month? This hands down is the winner. Your detail work is so realistic that I can imagine myself walking around in this old service facility viewing all the stuff.
Steve
KKarns
February 2016
Well deserved Karl. I only repeated my comment as I’m not sure how better to describe the overall work you’ve done here! The hand crank is wonderfully designed and crafted. I love the subtile details as you know like…the peg on the timber with nothing hanging from it, the scuff mark or “dornik” on the post beam behind the barrel with the hand crank, roughed up and uneven facia board of the work bench rather than just a flat even look, which most of us would have done. And the list goes on…well played…Ken
Karl.A
February 2016 edited February 2016
Thanks for the confidence vote Steve but unfortunately I’m pretty sure I wont make it to the expo this year. I really cant afford it (car rental/hotel/etc) and the 25+ hour drive alone would be a real bitch to do. Wish I could be there, but at this point very doubtful.
Thanks Ken, always great to read your insightful comments, the mark on the post behind the oil pump is actually where I removed a sign I didn’t like and it hadn’t been replaced yet in this photo, nothing as thoughtful as a scuff mark or dornik, still progress pics remember.. the damage on the work bench is copied from Dave Revelia’s, mine was slightly over done though for ‘in-person’ contest room viewing to make it more visible and not close up photography realism. Nicely satisfying that you noticed it.
Thanks for the comments.
Karl.A
Jerry
March 2016
A true master. Karl your right up there with the best of them. Coloring, detail its all there.
I sent you an email I need to know how you did something on a metal roof long time ago??
Check your box here.
Jerry
Karl.A
March 2016
Thanks for the very kind words Jerry.
I sent you a reply with what I think is the right info you asked for.
Karl.A
Jerry
March 2016
Got it that’s the one. A great tutorial and a way clever way of doing seams. Thanks for your help.
Jerry
Karl.A
March 2016 edited February 2021
Anytime Jerry,
The back side of the car shop wall, and, looking into the main shop and welding scene.
Karl.A
Karl.A
March 2016 edited March 2016
Bill asked earlier in the thread what I would change, or didn’t like, well, basically from here on out nothing is really finished in my mind, so…
1: needs something on the post, prob a coil of wire/tubing to tie in with the other wall.
2: some boxes/cans/spare parts to fill up the void.
3: a sign or two on the post
4: some minor items left scattered, just a couple to show, ‘busy’.
5: a crate or something with a leaning hammer, or..‘something’.
If you compare the two pictures, even the red lines and numbers make it look better and more balanced.
And in general the crate on the track needs something in it and the trash cans need trash..
Karl.A
nextceo
March 2016
Ok…now youre just being picky.
brownbr
March 2016
The split barrel quench tank is a nice touch.
Karl.A
March 2016
Thanks Bryan, well spotted !!
You’ll also notice the work bench has a steel top sheet on it, which is dented from the hammering of hot parts, before they were quenched.
(progress shot)
Karl.A
Jerry
March 2016
Looks great Karl and some nice additions even if your being picky. About he quenched part a cold beer would do that a lot quicker!!
Jerry
Ps I sent you another email.
Wes
March 2016
Hi Karl
I hope you well my friend. Just returned after a bit of a modeling hiatus due to no enthusiasm. Your last few updates have really kicked my butt back into gear and bought back all my enthusiasm for this hobby. Your work is simply beautiful and so very realistic.
Im full of energy now and cant wait to get the O scale o neills. Thanks for the inspiration buddy.
Jerry
March 2016
Thanks Karl I got it.
Jerry
KKarns
March 2016 edited March 2016
Karl, outstanding! love how you’re going through each phase of the interior breaking it down into sections then formulating a “punch list” of what needs done. This is a mere portion of what makes modeling at this level so satisfying to follow along with, such a great learning tool for us. So many things that could be commented on. Pipe rack…love it, anvil on block of wood…love it, particularly the treatment and weathering to the end of the wood block…love it, warm patina of the floor…love it…well you get the idea…Ken
Karl.A
March 2016
Good to read Wes, thanks, I look forward to seeing some of your work, now I just need to get motivated myself…
Thanks Ken, always great to have your input, glad you’re enjoying the pics.
Moving onto the machine shop next, here’s a few taster photos I recently posted in B/W..
I’m working on resizing the ‘in-progress’ pics to post, hopefully later tonight.
More later,
Karl.A
KCSTrains
March 2016
Karl, you are always an inspiration on how to think through the project. If you remember, I was drawn to this forum after doing a google search for weathering craftsman kits and finding your weathering tutorial. The rest is history … Phil
Karl.A
March 2016 edited March 2016
Thanks Phil, great to hear from you.
I’m so glad I was in some way able to help you find SW and the forum.
Talking of ‘thinking through a project’ I was well out of my comfort zone when it came to the machine shop.
Not knowing anything about this area, planning the line shafts was daunting to me and placing the machinery logically and relevantly, not only for the work performed in the shop, but also in relation to each other.
Many, many hours, days, weeks were spent, choosing the machines, trying to fit in as many as plausibly possible, working on the arrangement, with considerations such as… use, the way the belts would have to go, where the workers could stand/move, safety… and of course most importantly… how good it looked, through the doorways, through the windows, from every angle, from the front or the back, or down through the big double doors.
Thankfully I had Brett’s machine shop manual which clarified and explained the line shaft arrangement , configuration, and what all that stuff actually was, once I started it was an encyclopedia of information which made the process painless, and very educational.
Secondly, I had the machinery which Brett had built to play around with, the full set of machinery complete with the engine and boiler !! Trying out all the options was made so much easier, (nerve wracking with the original pieces), but, such an amazing opportunity that I will always be incredibly thankful for.
Most importantly and helpfully I had Brett watching over my shoulder to advise, explain and bounce ideas back and forth with.
Many variations… originally on the desk, and then in the ‘mocked up’ structure. From the beginning we agreed the HO ‘office’ should be the engine room, just had to figure out how…
Not happy with any of this a new plan was formulated…
Karl.A
Ojaste
March 2016
Karl, these are truely an amazing display of art. I would spend most of a day seeing new things in it.
What did you do, shrink to yourself to O scale and do the work in 1:1 world?
Karl.A
March 2016 edited March 2016
Thanks Marty, high compliments indeed… if only it were that simple.
After a LONG time and many re-arrangements, none of which worked 100% I realized that one major problem was that I didn’t have enough ‘walls’. I was upscaling an HO design and adding more to it, although the layout is perfect in the HO kit, in O scale I needed just a little more to accommodate the extra machinery.
The best way I came up with to do this was to mirror the carshop wall, thus giving me some additional wall space, and also keeping the visual balance of the interior space, I also moved the office wall back slightly to give me some extra space and a visually interesting corner to work with.
So, the finished wall was taken apart, rebuilt, and the extra section added.
With the additional wall the machinery came into place much better… as you can see I was still trying to shoehorn in the large drill press, but alas, it just was too overpowering, too big, and wouldn’t fit into such a small ‘light repair’ work shop such as this.
So this was basically the final arrangement… although the grinder and small drill were swapped later, placement based on lineshaft/pullys alignment and orientation , work flow (ie where the stock would be, such as, long bar being cut on hacksaw, space for rod on ‘threader’, space around miller… etc) … and how it looked.
Once the basic layout made sense for all the previous reasons, more photos were taken from many angles, through windows, through doorways, etc, to make sure the machines didn’t block or obscure views and that they balanced with the scene behind them… from every angle.
So, now that the layout was finally set, it was time to fill in the spaces and set the scene…
oh, and build the line shaft to make it all ‘work’.
Karl.A
Jerry
March 2016
Karl you didn’t use all the machines? Just some of them? This has been my problem with the machines (there all done) is placing them to look realistic in a setting.
Jerry
KKarns
April 2016
Beautiful work both in concept and execution. I love how you take us through your thought process when working up the floor plan. The overhead shot of the machinery staged in position is terrific and the warm patina of the floor just makes it. Ken
Karl.A
April 2016
As much as I wanted to use all the machines Jerry, (and trust me, I tried to squeeze them all in, in every possible configuration), this is still only a small maintenance shop, not a full on machine shop, so, space and reason had to prevail, at some point in the future I’ll get to build and use them all.
Thanks Ken, its great that you are enjoying the process, we all love to look at finished models, at how things look in their final place… I hoped that some people would like to see that it doesn’t all fall into place the first time. Generally its 90% thinking, planning, researching and only 10% modeling.
Karl.A
mikemettelka
July 2017
Just when I thought I was doing well with my own stuff, I come across this… you sir, are amazing at this stuff. I know some of it is just experience, but you just “get it”. I will continue forward with the hopes that I can accomplish something like this. I am almost done with my off topic stuff and look forward to your constructive criticism!
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thank you for the kind words Ed and Mike, they are very appreciated.
I realize that this is now an old build and an old thread, but, as the subject has been resurrected, and, if there are no objections I would like to continue with the narrative from where it left off… ?
Karl.A
mikemettelka
July 2017
Definitely continue forward, I for one would really like to see how this has ended up.
KCSTrains
July 2017
Karl, please continue. I always like your commentary. Phil
admin
July 2017
yes, yes… as much additional info as you would like to provide.
MuddyCreekRR
July 2017
Go for it…
nextceo
July 2017 edited July 2017
Still not sure how your Loco and Service Shops Diorama didnt win 1st at the NGC…one of the 7 wonders of the world…
mikemettelka
July 2017
I was thinking that as well…
Karl.A
July 2017
It’s a popular vote competition. The diorama wasn’t the mot popular amongst the ‘people’ who actually got to vote, it’s as simple as that.
Ultimately it lost by one vote,
but, the Mt Albert award still means more to me.
It was the same situation for everyone in the room.
I’ll carry on with pics tomorrow of the machine shop progress.
Joel
July 2017
So glad to see you continue posting on this. It is truly the bar against which I hold all modelling, up there with Doan.
Thanks, serioulsly
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thank you for the kind words,
it is going to take me some time to get back up to speed and sort through pictures I had forgotten about. But as we are moving forward with the machine shop I’ll start with the machinery.
These are some incredible pieces, so highly detailed it blew my mind. Having Brett’s original pilot models to use, as I said earlier in this thread was such a huge priviledge.
SierraWest | CHB Machine Shop Machinery
I just needed to adjust some of the weathering to fit in with my own scenario, scarey stuff to do with these ‘one of a kind’ originals… here are the results of the ones I have pictures of.
Karl.A
July 2017
MarkG
July 2017
Karl, your attention to the mechanical detail is amazing. The details show through in subtlety which just enhances the realism. Thank you for such a wonderful example of what is possible.
Mark
Robert.G
July 2017
Hey Karl, now that I 've been through the categories, you really set a standard for this kind of modelling. A true reference. Thanks for it. Just awesome !!!
Robert
Karl.A
July 2017
Thank you, but all I did was weather them. These machines were exquisitely built and painted many years ago by Brett to showcase them and I was fortunate to use these original showpieces.
As they were originally built for sale display and I was using them in the model I adjusted the weathering to suit my needs and blend with the ‘shop’.
Added shadows, highlights, re-polished some areas, added rust effects, oil, grime, some added wear and tear, an extra detail or two on a few of them and that was about it.
More later,
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017
While searching through my pictures I came across this progress setup shot, I don’t know what it is I like about it so much but figured Id share it. It shows how I was trying to tie the machine shop into the main area by having the areas flow into eachother and blend.
I also like the subtle reflections/shine on some items…
the wrenches on the two benches, anvil, quench tank, wheels to name a few, also how the patina on the metal bench top shows up and the wear marks on the styrene rails ontop of the crane.
Karl.A
Bill
July 2017
Wow! So glad this thread popped back up!
When I see great models that are well modeled (yes, two components) I’m equally blown away by the end result and drawn into the process. I can’t stand NOT knowing how a magician pulls off his illusions. In the same way, I want to see how the best of the best get their modeling results. These new glimpses help illustrate all that went into making this gem. So, I hope there’s more.
Watching you take the handoff from Brett and running with it almost makes me nervous FOR you. This was more than “adding some weathering.” You’re taking a one of a kind original and…tinkering with it. But, I realized this wasn’t an effort to make the pieces “better”. It’s simply an adjustment for the setting.
However, you gave me another anxiety attack when thinking about the full model: a showcase for Brett’s originals. Yikes! Who needs THAT kind of pressure?? Glad it’s you and not me!
Please keep digging for more pics. I never not learned a trick or two for watching over your shoulder!
KKarns
July 2017
Great to see this continued Karl. So much to see and learn from here.
MuddyCreekRR
July 2017
This thread was what I had spoke of Karl in my thread…your attention to “detail of reality” as I call it…the stuff looks real…
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thank you Ed, Bill and Ken, yes Bill very nervous when I started.
With the machinery placement (almost) finalized and the decision made to have an ‘engine room’ it was time to start filling in the spaces, as in the other areas, I wanted the details around the machine areas to be specific and logical.
Some bare castings were used for spacing, arrangement, shapes, height, etc.
Once some ideas began to fall into place after hours/days/etc of moving things around it was time to design and build the actuals. As before, bare castings were used to plan things out.
Once I was happy with detail arrangement the castings were removed and finished properly, and, once they were glued down the benches could then be weathered appropriately.
Once I had specific pieces to position and move around I could then detail the areas around and behind the machines. A few specific tools for adjustments, some oil and lubes for maintenance, an odd spare part, and, of course some scrap stock scattered out of the way. A lot of it not really visible, but all still finished to best quality and it hopefully adds to the effect.
Some more progress pics and still not finished.
As I said earlier, blending the two rooms (machine shop and main shop) together… the ‘steel and pipe’ rack was purposely placed on the otherside of the wall behind the power hacksaw. The ‘off cuts’ on the floor flow around the machine, the waste bin, the wall and ultimately around the pipe rack on the other side, thereby tying that whole scene and work process all together.
The pipe rack is next to the open door in the main shop so that long stock can be unloaded from a short flat car and fed into the racking, (the scene with a half unloaded pipe car on the tracks was always planned for this area, but not completed, yet!)
Likewise the hacksaw was purposely positioned next to the open main doorway so that long stock can sit on the stock support and extend out of the door whist being cut to shorter lengths without intruding into the machine shop.
The pipe handrail is there to protect workers that come through the door to the main shop from the hacksaw drivebelt, the guardrail is actually positioned just far enough back so that longer stock when it is in the hacksaw jaws can pass past it into the shop if needed.
More machinery and areas in the shop later, or tomorrow.
Karl.A
sdrees
July 2017
Karl, your details are absolutely fabulous. I think that I am actually in the shop.
brownbr
July 2017
Sure is nice to revisit this.
Joel
July 2017
Loving the tour and learning so much. Thanks for the effort in posting all this. I look at this last picture and can really see how this could be a “Partworks” model and this would be one of the quarterly issues. Enough in this little scene to spend days and days getting it “right”. Amazing work.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thanks for the comments Steve, Brian and Joel, very appreciated.
Appologies for picture quality on most of these ‘progress’ photos, I know most are blurry in a lot of places and the lighting is too harsh or dim, but, these were taken as I was working and used for myself for detail placement, angles, planning views etc, I wasn’t concerned with picture quality at the time.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Last of the machines… the front wall is off on these so somethings look a little strange with the exterior details intruding into some of the pictures.
The grinder (MT-520)
which was swapped with the vertical drill.
(looks like somebody has an axe to grind)
A higher view without the wall.
Few more axes waiting to be sharpened.
Universal Miller (MT-540) one of my favourites
Sitting in the redesigned corner from previous pics.
I added a screw driver and couple of wrenches to the machines ‘tool tray’
Vertical Drill (MT-520)
Hard to see and not a good shot, the scene still isn’t finished.
Single Bolt Cutter (MT-560)
Again, a still unfinished scene…
Bill asked earlier in the thread what I would change or add, this pic is another good example of that.
The catch box under the lathe needs to be filled with shavings.
The bucket next to the lathe needs trash/rags
There will be a ‘C’ clamp rack for the drill and a ‘die’ rack for the bolt cutter between the two machines.
Some misc details between drill and bolt cutter.
As with the list of ‘changes’ I specified on the previous page, its not that I missed these things, they were always planned, I just basically didn’t have time to do them and I haven’t gone back to it, yet.
Well, that’s a not so quick shop tour and views of all the machines, I couldn’t find any finished overall shots so these few will suffice for now.
Next onto the engine room to get some power to these beauties…
Karl.A
Robert.G
July 2017
To say it’s impressive would be an understatement. I really hope this comes as a ( several part ) kit in the O scale. I am in ! I can’t place it on my layout anymore , but will create a special diorama with it. It is with work like yours that one gets ambitious to move up to the next level of modelling. Thanks Karl.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thank you Robert.
Here is some trivia about the model some may find interesting.
Although I am about to show the engine room design and build, even at this point in the process the only thing actually permanently glued down is the rear wall and its details.
The structure was assembled and detailed and then torn down again many many times.
This was necessary because each time I worked on a scene I had to be able to take the walls apart and detail them flat on my desk relative to the scene. Some of you may have noticed the clips holding the walls together in many of the previous pictures.
The picture below shows the actual structure, everything was built forward from this back wall. Not sure when this picture was taken but you’ll notice the weathering on the floor where the lathe sits in the workshop, so at many previous points everything had been built up, placed and detailed, the machines had been put in place and then all removed again so I could work on a different area.
The next picture shows planning the engine room, but, in the background the crane and surrounding details are removed (infact I don’t think they had actually been done yet), the machines are in the wrong places, the welding scene hasn’t even been started yet.
The next picture shows why this was necessary. This pic must be near the end of the build(although it doesn’t look it), the side walls are finally glued down as are the details but everything else is removed again. This was necessary so that I had full access to go back to each wall to do finish detailing and weathering to all the areas now that everything had finally been planned out infront and throughout the interior.
Certain things were definite from the beginning and needed to be anchors for everything else, but, I had to be able to go back and have access to the other ‘not yet designed’ areas. The carshop was definite as was the machine shop, The crane was originally going to be a travelling crane the entire length of the center bay, I’m really glad I scrapped that plan and changed direction early on.
So, things were designed out of sequence but ultimately needed to be built from the back forwards.
The only way to do this was to keep everything removable until the interior was fully designed and laid out and all the scenes worked together. Only then could I go back and do the next levels and start gluing things in place.
I had a sheet of paper for each scene to keep everything organized when removed and so I knew where all that stuff went back to.
Below you can see basic detail sheets for the machine shop, engine room, car shop, wood cutting scene, car shop exterior , log bunk building scene…
that weird looking thing top right is the line shaft, which also had to be designed and built as removable, hence the bare strip wood temporary braces holding the rafters together.
One day there would be a detailed structure on my bench, the next there may only be three or four walls, or even just a single wall propped up on my glass work surface depending what I was working on, and so it repeated and progressed throughout the build.
Karl.A
KKarns
July 2017
Brilliant Karl!..holding some comments as I have seen most of this previously so a real treat for those that haven’t. I love that third from the last shot…reality encompassing the illusion of reality!..so many, many wonderful details in that space it boggles the mind.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
The engine room pt1
Very, very early on in the build, Brett and I decided it would be very cool if the HO office was changed into a boiler and engine room to power the machineshop, we agreed it would make a great scene, a quick mockup on the glass surface but way to early to figure out how it was going to work, I needed to make a lot of progress inside before we could start planning this out properly.
Several months later and the back wall is detailed and glued in. Several other areas have been decided on and planned, now the engine room could be revisited.
As you see the front wall was originally built exactly as per Bretts HO design.
However, the engine and boiler weren’t going to fit in the small office together.
We decided to bring the boiler outside under an overhang, but, not possible with the existing front wall layout.
By reversing the front wall (for mockup purposes) we agreed that a second large doorway should be added, thus giving an engine room and access to the boiler, this would also provide great views inside.
You can also see from this pic how the structure is clamped together, the carshop is pretty much detailed and I’m working on planning out the second wall, crane scene, pipe rack and there are several ‘place holder’ details for planning while I work on the actual ones. The machinery placement hasn’t yet been fully worked out at this point.
Not quite ready to pull apart my beautiful and completed front wall until we had it 100% figured out I went back to working on the interior. The second wall shelves and benches were now being worked on the wall was detailed, the crane scene was being planned and worked on, well, except for the crane, but I used a mock up for visual planning, and a few other minor details inside the main engine bay such as the pipe rack and the hand pump on a drum.
Now with a better sense of the interior layout the front wall was revisited… and pulled apart.
When held up on the structure it looked good, but not great, the windows didn’t look right and I wanted a bigger boiler scene and that window on the left was in the way. At this point I also decided on the front wall being removable, but also in two sections, for viewing. The wall was again pulled apart, this time even more.
Once rebuilt with the third window removed the wall was test fitted. It was now in two removable pieces. The worksop side could come off for viewing of the machinery and shop leaving the boiler wall and roof in place, or the boiler side could come off, or both. The whole interior had once again been temporarily detailed to check viewing angles, placements etc with the new wall in place.
The boiler scene and outside work area was mocked up to see how it flowed and balanced with the interior details/views.
All was good, so it was time to finalise the machine placements, detail the machine shop, build the lineshaft, all of which you have now seen , and, next post, to work on the engine room layout and details.
Karl.A
sdrees
July 2017
Hi Karl,
What method did you use for the peeling paint? It looks awesome.
KKarns
July 2017
Karl…you are approaching the continuation of this thread to perfection! I love how you are going through and describing the thought process and the planning as I love this part of a build. The mock ups, the thoughts and planning such a vital part of a great build. This thread is so good and so inspirational it makes me want to jump right in and get some serious work done on the bench. Bravo my good man…
sdrees
July 2017
So Ken, What is keeping from getting some serious work done?
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thanks for the comment on the peel of the boards Steve, I used the technique from Brett’s HO locoshop manual, its a fantastic method and when you quickly get used to it you can do some wonderful and amazing things with it.
Notice how in picture ‘5’ in my previous post the boards are all heavily peeled, but, when you look closer you’ll notice that the bottom 2/3s of the wall (which would be exposed) is peeled much more than the top 1/3 (which is protected by the eaves and roof). Its easily overlooked, but its there.
Its one of those things that overall just looks right, but, its subtle enough that it isn’t specifically noticed until you spot it or its pointed out.
If you focus on the wall level all along above the windows it is mostly paint, heavily peeled, but, mostly paint. If you focus only on the area level below the windows it is mostly bare wood and very little paint. If you look at the wall as a whole, it just looks like a peeled paint wall. Transition in-between.
Because this model is heavily peeled all over I made it a very subtle difference, but, the method from the manual gives you the ability to make the peel and transition as harsh or as subtle as your own model needs. I did a much harsher and pronounced difference on my Blue Sky build for example. Also the amount of control can be seen on my Mainstreet Hotel under the stairway.
Thank you Ken, I’m glad to read that you are enjoying the “behind the scenes” (literally), and thought processes of building this model. I hope that current/future readers of this thread may spot something in one of the pictures, and use or adapt it for one of their own models.
I realise that a lot of these posts are ‘similar’,
meaning, they are detail orientated scenes, with shelves and tools, etc, but, there are very specific nuances within each scene that I hope people pick up on and it gives them ideas for their own modeling.
I will try to make this clearer in my next engine room post.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Engine room pt2
So once again, another built up shelf and arranging the details. I decided the engine/maintenance room would be primarily where the engine was kept running but also there would be a small maintenance bench for minor repairs, there would be a few spare parts lying around and all of this would be relevant to, the engine itself but also the line shaft and ancillaries. Misc boxes and bottles of oil on the shelves along with some specific items.
Mostly bare castings arranged and the work bench in the blurry background.
Time to cut a hole in the floor, place the engine and then the big details in the room, make sure there’s enough room and the viewing angles all flow
I also added a ladder so the maintenance crew could go up to the line shaft on the rafters and grease the bearings, swap a pully or belt etc.
Once happy the main things were going to fit and look good I pulled the engine back out and started adding the next level of detail, signs on the wall, some finer details on the shelves and floor, shovels on hangers, etc..
A month or so later, once all the walls of the structure were finally glued down and all the main details were epoxied in place and nothing was going to move again… as I did with all areas of the model I went back (with a very long pair of tweezers and much care) and added another level of detail…
In this room you can see I added several items to the back of the engine which weren’t possible when it was still being moved in and out.
And that pretty much finishes up the engine room, but… lets go back and have a closer look at one of my many favorite pictures…
Karl.A
Robert.G
July 2017
This is really exemplary work. Love it. Thanks for your time of sharing all of this. Very motivating. It will be a great guide for me when I kick of with the machinery. That’s the first box of the O scale sawmill kit coming my way.
Robert
MarkG
July 2017
Wow Karl. I really appreciate your walking through the thought process and how you implemented and added the art of it. This build is inspirational at many levels. Thank you for your care in sharing.
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
So, lets ‘zoom in’ on that last picture for a closer look.
As I’ve mentioned before in this thread, each area of the LocoShop is detailed with items that are very specific for that area and make sense… carshop full of carparts, crane area detailed with hoisting equipment..and so on, but also I tried to bring in some more subtle things in each area… once again that concept continues here…
Some things are obvious, some not so much.
There are many items here that are specific to the engine/line shaft… spare pullys, some gears, there are some coiled belts on the shelf, one is loose and draped down and several pillow blocks…
There is a pillow block on the bench taken apart, I drilled holes in the filed down casting to show where the bolts would go, the scratch made top half has holes drilled where the bolts would go, the bolts are sitting on the bench next to it, and yes, that wrench sitting on the box on the bench is the right size and does actually fit the bolt heads… the bearing has been removed to be replaced.
Talking of wrenches… next to them on the rack are a couple of C clamps, but a closer look shows that they aren’t just siting up perfectly straight, and then you’ll notice that the handles are slightly twisted at different angles, just as they are anywhere in reality, the C clamps are ‘adjusted’ like this throughout the model, and all of the threads are polished from use.
On the back left of the bench, next to the large leaning C clamp is a Texaco can, nothing special, there are several around the shop, in fact, if you care to scroll up and look at the shelf behind the Universal Miller there are three almost the same next to each other. This wasn’t because I got lazy or ran out of new ideas, in fact they were probably done 6-9 months apart, my reasoning is that a shop of this size would buy those items in bulk, by the case, and so there would be many of that same item scattered around the shop where needed, they wouldn’t last very long so they would all be weathered more or less the same. There are also three cans of another item behind the Universal Miller. Same cans, same colour, same labels, same reasoning.
The small tool rack over the work bench is full, so, where did that wrench that’s sitting out on the desk come from ? (usually I have had empty spaces on the racks for tools that are out on the bench).
Well, there is an old paint can sitting on the bench with a few extra wrenches in it, that wrench probably came from there.
As throughout the LocoShop, pretty much all of the drums, cans and bottles have labels, even the ones in this scene, tucked away on the shelves that you can barely see in this photo and have no chance of seeing if you were looking at the model in person. But, the difference in the shadows and depth makes a difference I think.
The pillow block casting on the floor has had the bolt details filed off as you can see, but, it has also had the holes drilled in it for the bolts, which unfortunately you cant see from this angle.
Alternatively the complete pillow block on the bench still has the bolts in the holes, (so they don’t get lost !).
The screw jack on the floor is black and dirty in the lower third, simple weathering, nothing special, but, the top was very carefully rubbed so that the paint only came off of the very slight raised details, this displays Brett’s casting quality beautifully, and looks pretty damn good too, when you notice it.
Usual weathered signs and a pinup girl on the wall, but, look a little closer behind the wrenches on the rack and you’ll see that one of the guys has tucked away a ‘black n white’ photo of his girl..
The handle on the broom is actually dirtier in the specific area where somebody would be holding it with their grubby hands, and also where the handle meets the head, because, that’s where dirt gathers and stays.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
Thank you Robert and mgietz (Michael,Marvin,Mark?), I’m happy that you are enjoying the thread and hope that you and others find it useful in some way.
Robert,I’m really looking forward to your build of the sawmill machinery, it is equally as incredible as the machine shop, I loved building it. Look at my sawmill thread to whet your appetite, several of us here have built the sawmill so if you have any questions we’ll be glad to answer.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
engine909 said:
…we often fail to realize how small the build really is…
ed
Small? SMALL !!!?
Darn it Ed you almost made me choke on my beer, just the building itself is 14"x17"…
SMALL !!! That’s not even counting the diorama…
OK, I’m just joking…
So I instantly, (second time I read it) realized what you were saying and the great compliment you were giving me, thank you very much.
I’ll post some perspective shots in a moment showing how ‘small’ the model is, but first…
‘yes’ in answer to one of your questions, it was over whelming, and ‘yes’ to another, every scene, every detail is a model unto itself, whether it be a 1/4" high screw jack that has chipped paint, polished thread on the screws and an oil drip where it was lubed at the handle, or, a rusty 55 gal drum, or a hammer that has a grubby handle and wear marks on the head, a polished axe… as you said, Ken knows, they are indeed all models, you have to take them one at a time and do your best with each of them.
As for scale, it doesn’t matter to me, the smallest thing is still the smallest thing, a HO oil drum is an O scale can on the shelf. Many of the items on the Loco shelves are HO castings, boxes, crates, drums etc, they are all finished equally.
I enjoy working in both scales, they have differences, and both have limitations and advantages.
Thank you Ed, I enjoy sharing my work, hopefully giving people ideas and at the least they enjoy looking.
So, here’s some perspective shots..
we’ll start at the engine room because that’s what I just posted.
Its difficult though to get into the back areas now that everything is permanent.
Karl.A
Robert.G
July 2017
What’s that orange out-of-space-alien-like object in the workshop??? 
No, it’s just good to realize how small, or big, whatever you want to call it, the diorama is. Eather way, it stays incredible.
srankin6
July 2017
Karl, can’t say enough your work is amazing , I always look forward to your builds.in Nova Scotia for the summer wish I had brought some of Brett’s kit to work on , you inspire me to get to work.At least I can watch your progress keep up the fantastic work!!!
brownbr
July 2017
Thanks for taking the time to walk through the thought process in setting up your scenes. Very helpful.
I agree with Robert, your new fuel tank needs to be weathered.
Bryan
sdrees
July 2017
Hi Karl,
I was wondering whether you used that peeling paint method or not because I used it myself on my HO scale engine house. And as I was doing it, I thought that this doesn’t look right until I started to place the boards on the walls. If I had know better, I would have been more careful about placing the boards and put the boards with more paint ant the top and those with less at the bottom. But we learn as we go.
Sorry Ken, but I don’t know how much grunge you should have on a building that is still in use and where it is located. I personally think that things get to much grunge.
MuddyCreekRR
July 2017
Wow…just plain wow. Ideas flow from your photos…outstandingly realistic… ..I only wish I had more details for when I scratch build. I know I will use every detail I get in the SWSM kits…in those builds…I also hope that Brett can get to this kit one day…but I have an alternative…How about some mini scenes…the shop machines…and surrounding details?..I know it would be hard to do…but I have the shop machines…bought them years ago…still unbuilt…but all the details I have in my parts drawers…aren’t near the quality…one can always hope…
Wes
July 2017
Im so glad to see 1 of my all time favourite modelers back at what he does so brilliantly. Keep posting your work bud, ive pulled up a nice comfy chair and cracked a cold 1 to watch the show.
KCSTrains
July 2017
Karl, I’m just catching up. As you know, you are the reason I found Sierra West, so there is no doubt in my mind how good you are. However, the pictures and the explanations just blow my mind. You have really thought about everything. It also brings up a very good point. Even if you don’t go to these measures when you build a kit, as long as you think things through and have a story or explanation in mind for what you do, your modeling will be better than most. Great job Karl!! Phil
Karl.A
July 2017
Thank you all for the great comments and kind words, they are very rewarding to read and I am glad that you are enjoying seeing the process and getting ideas.
Karl.A
Karl.A
July 2017 edited July 2017
The Boiler Room,
still I would say only half finished, but, heres how I got there so far.
Before the engine was glued down it, and the front walls were removed, a ‘concrete’ base was made for the boiler and the flooring was glued down in the boiler room, and some of the outside work area.
The boiler and engine were put in place as was the wood cutting scene and it was time to plan out details.
The walls were put back in and some items were planned out. The large shelf unit actually holds the boiler wall in place and the bench is borrowed from my woodcutters diorama which is why there are no labels on the bottles. As you can see on the right I am also planning out the next area so that they blend.
The boiler wall section removed to check the view and flow without it in place.
Both wall sections removed and the detailing pretty much done at this point.
As you can see I ended up using the old bench without labels as I didn’t have time to build a new one, however, all of the cans and drums now added under the bench do have labels.
And this is how it currently sits, as you can see about 50% done and pretty sparse compared with previous areas, no signs on the walls, it needs a shelf on the main wall and a tool rack on the back of the cabinet, and also maybe something on the floor in front of the boiler. Also needs ash, soot and general grime in front of the boiler door on the ground and ‘concrete’ slab.
The finished outdoor work area, detailed primarily with carparts, brake cylinders, springs on the shelves, and a hand cart on the bench with a wheel missing being repaired.
The back shelf and several details are glued to the wall and remove with the wall as seen previously in this thread, the details lock together with those glued to the ground to make it seamless when the wall is in place and hold it there tight.
The water tank in place and the wood scene done, both essential to keep the boiler running. A rack of axes on pegs on the wall with an empty space/pegs for the axe that is in the woodpile being used and a couple of splitting wedges lying around.
The yellow barrel also holds the wall in place, it looks like I knocked it loose at some point and it needs gluing back down.
Karl.A
MarkG
July 2017
Wow Karl. There is so much to take in. Your planning, forethought, and composition really show through in the results. Thank you for sharing the process. It is really helpful for me to see this. Thanks again.
Mark
Joel
July 2017
Amazing as always. So many ideas to steal I’m getting a headache. The bar has been set so high it is no longer a competition but rather something to try and emulate. Love it, and thanks for all the work explaining as all of it can be used to help become a better modeller. The more you show the more I’m itching for Brett to release part one even if it is just a mini scene.
KKarns
July 2017
Stunning detail Karl! I keep looking at each picture and finding details I didn’t see before. This kind of “clutter” detail is so time consuming and is really harder to conceive and layout than many would think that haven’t done it. Layer by layer you have created a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. I don’t care how long it takes you need to bring this puppy home! No rush mind you…PS. that horizontal air tank is crazy good.
Bill
July 2017
A fascinating look at your thought process, Karl! Planning and layering is the only way to achieve these results. Like putting a puzzle together, I’m sensing you play with all the pieces until they fit together to form the picture.
I’m learning that this process is a really enjoyable part of construction which pays huge dividends in the final outcome.
Thanks again!
Mario
November 2017
Karl.. I sent you a message offline. cheers mate
Mario
November 2017
Karl. Amazing project. For 12 months I tried to find out who built this structure.
Jam packed full of workshop ideas..
Hope it’s OK to combine all the photos into one web page to share with the worldwide modellers. Glad I joined up with the SW gang…
cheers mate
trains4ms
November 2017
Karl,
Every time I see this great model I want to start one like it. I really like the design. You really did a great job building and detailing it. I know it has been discussed to do some sort of kit in the future, but I have not heard if that is still in the works. I just bought all of the machines, from the recent run so I am part way on my journey. I know there is a build of this building going on now on the forums, which I am following.
Mike S.
Jerry
November 2017
Just amazing work Karl.
“M” thanks for doing the pictorial its excellent.
Jerry
Robert.G
November 2017
I am full with admiration. And like many others, hoping to see this in an O scale SW kit one fine day.
Mario
November 2017
Hi Karl. Just got home…Been away for R&R for a few days. Received your email and made a few modifications to the web page as you requested. cheers mate
Karl.A
November 2017
Thanks Mario, hope you are now ‘refreshed’.
Mario
November 2017
cheers
flipper1935
January 2018
@Karl A quoting a first page post:
"Thanks Scott, I’ll see what I can dig up for you.
I used some .005 styrene to make the metal sheets of the boiler. Rivets were added with a pounce wheel."
What is a pounce wheel, and where does one acquire a pounce wheel?
Thank you,
flipper1935
January 2018
Thank you Ed.
Jerry
kebmo
February 2018
just wanted to revive this thread. it’s too damn good to let it fade to oblivion.
vietnamseabee
February 2018
Thanks for bringing this thread to the top of the list…a lot of good info here
Robert.G
February 2018
No oblivion for me. I look into this build quiet often. So much to admire.
kebmo
February 2018
it sure is. i think karl is a master builder, and to scratch this model and detail it the way he has (from those racks of sierra west details on his work bench. color me green) is something above what chuck doan does only due to scale and size. this is a thing of beauty.
kebmo
February 2018
since this entire thread is a virtual extension of brett’s craftsman kit university, maybe we should ask if he can “pin it to page one” or make it a sticky so it’s always there right in front of us. this thread is as much about diorama design as it is about building, especially if karl takes this thread all the way to the finish.
Dave_S
February 2018
Karl,
I keep coming back to this build and looking at the way you work the details in a scene. Specifically, I am wondering how you created the worn through spot in the wheel barrow?
Thanks, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
kebmo
February 2018
i’ve been wondering about that too…
admin
February 2018
Yeah, that old wheelbarrow is pretty cool. I gave Karl a couple castings that didn’t fill completely in the mold leaving a void that looked just like a worn out hole.
kebmo
February 2018
i’m looking at it and thinking hmm, maybe i’ll put some pewter black in it and just let it sit there until it eats through it…
glad i didn’t.
brownbr
February 2018
You could sell those “seconds” Brett. I bough some metal and wooden barrel “seconds” from somewhere years ago. I love using them as really-rusted-holey barrells.
EricMG
August 2018
I was looking at contest winning models at a national level when I ran across some internet photos that floored me. “Damn, what in the hell is this?” The interior shots were likely the best I’d ever seen in O scale. Sent the photos to Brett and Brett sent me this eye-opening link. And I hear it may become an O-scale series of kits. I wrote back quickly to B: “I’m in!” Is there anything else I could’ve said?
Karl, you own it with this puppy!
Karl.A
August 2018 edited August 2018
Thanks for the great words Eric, I hope you enjoy going back through the thread,
and I hope one day I finish it… ha
Karl.A
Robert.G
August 2018
I keep coming back at this thread aswel. It is so inspiring and motivating knowing that this was scratch build. Just amazing work.
trains4ms
August 2018
I have also come back many times to this thread as well. I have looked at the pictures for hours. It is one of the best models I have ever looked at. There are also so many great indivual models which make up the whole model. I can only hope that I will be able to build a model that might come close.
I also really appreciate everyone who takes the time to post pictures of their builds here.
Mike S.
Karl.A
August 2018 edited August 2018
Thank you Robert and Mike for those extremely nice comments. It’s very rewarding to read them, also to know that the thread still gets views.
Here’s a couple different pics I came across today whilst talking to Brett about something else.
Just to keep things from getting stale…
Karl.A
Philip
August 2018
Hey Karl! just stumbled in to this amazement! Nice!
Karl.A
August 2018
Great to see you here Philip, and posting, thanks alot for the comment.
There’s some great builds/builders here. We hope to see more of you.
Thanks again for “stopping in”.
Karl.A
geoawelch
September 2018
Amazing modeling here, Karl. Reminiscent to me of Chuck Doan’s work. Just breathtaking in the amount of detail and what Bob Brown calls “clutter”
CraigH
November 2018
How did you do… the beam’s and inside wall’s
Karl.A
November 2018
That question covers a lot of answers Craig, was there a specific area you wanted to know… construction, initilal colouring, weathering, shadowing… etc
Some are covered earlier, others are not, let me know which and I’ll be glad to share how.
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
January 2019
This is a very impressive video
Terry
Robert.G
January 2019
Indeed it is. I saw it several times already .!!
Karl.A
January 2019 edited January 2019
Thank you so much Mario. It was beautiful to re-live those moments. The music had me entranced perfectly throughout.
Karl.A
KKarns
January 2019
Never get tired of settling down to some of the best modeling I have ever seen!
Robert.G
January 2019
You took the words right out of my mouth.. ( Hey ! wasn’t that a Meatloaf line )
sdrees
January 2019
Karl, your build is just fantastic. You are one of the masters!
KCSTrains
January 2019
Karl, as you know, you brought me into the Sierra West family with your encouragement and great advice. This video clearly shows the standard of modeling of which I aspire to accomplish. Phil
trains4ms
January 2019
I keep coming back to view this great model. It is so inspiring and I hope to be able to come close to building like this. The explanations that are given through out this thread is really helpful to understand how to tackle a large project like this.
Mike S.
Joel
January 2019
Karl, a tribute to your great modelling skills, the detail is superb. One of the greatest achievements in modelling. Not just yours but all scale modelling. Thanks for sharing. Can’t even imagine what more you want to add to it.
Jerry
January 2019
Joel said:
Karl, a tribute to your great modelling skills, the detail is superb. One of the greatest achievements in modelling. Not just yours but all scale modelling. Thanks for sharing. Can’t even imagine what more you want to add to it.
Couldn’t say it better Joel. He is one of the “MASTERS”
Jerry
By the way Karl read your email!!!
Karl.A
January 2019 edited January 2019
Thanks for the great comments guys, they are truly appreciated.
There is still a lot to add Joel, I’m working my way back up to it.
TomMich
January 2019
Karl, I keep referring to your work for inspiration and each time I view it I find a new idea to try to incorporate in my work. You say it isn’t finished and I eagerly look forward to seeing what you come up with next.
Tom
Karl.A
January 2019
I’m looking forward to it too Tom, there is so much I skipped over and missed out because I very regrettably ended up rushing some of the later areas. Hopefully most I’ll have access to go back to and redo now it’s together, but if not…
Either way, there is still much more in store for this build, great to know you are enjoying it so far.
Karl.A
admin
November 2022
This build thread is always worth a re-visit.
Jerry
November 2022
admin said:
This build thread is always worth a re-visit.
Yes it is like most of his are!!
Jerry
Jim M
November 2022
Holy crap, definitely worth a revisit. First rate modeling.
Robert.G
November 2022
This was and still is a MAIN reference for me..
MuddyCreekRR
November 2022
This thread is a huge inspiration for my current project…it’s got great details…
Sakman
December 2022
Inspiration.
Karl.A
December 2022
Thanks so much guys, it’s always great to read replies to this thread…
I actually just had it back on my desk and was dusting off some of the exposed areas last week,
Sitting, staring, thinking, planning… y’all know how it goes.
Worked a few things out for further progress on this build.
I’m going to finish off the current WaterTank build first though before I get back to this.
David_C
March 2023
A true Master Modeller. Absolutely incredible Karl.
Karl.A
March 2023
Thanks so much David, really appreciated.
I knew I knew you from somewhere. Ha.