This thread was started in October, 2020
brownbr
October 2020 in O Scale Builds
I built this kit a little over 6 years ago and was very happy to see it available again. Since part deux was already taken, I went with version 2.0
Comments
brownbr
October 2020
I’m not going to detail all of the steps that I took to get to this point. Phil is doing a fine job of that. I’m following his methods very closely with only a couple of small differences.
The first pick shows the heavy brush I use. It’s as stiff as a file brush and easier to handle. It can be a bit much for thin boards though. Speaking of boards, I was happy to see instructions written in scale lumber vs dimensional lumber. ie: 1x12 vs .020x.250
I wanted a dull gray wood tone. My experiments with gray chalks did not give me the color I wanted so I did a variation of the wet brush method and got some interesting results. The wall piece on the left is the color of the chalks. I dry brushed a light and very light gray on the wall hoping to get the gray tones I wanted but the color was not noticible. I used a wide flat brush to apply IA (1tsp/pt) and brush it in. This smeared the color all around to an even coat. Once dry I added more coats of IA until I got the color you see on the right piece of wall (5 total coats). After the final coat dried I lightly sanded with 220 grit paper, brushed lightly with a brass brush to remove the dust then went over lightly with 0000 steel wool to remove the newly created fuzzies.
I’m happy with the coloring and should be able to easily recreate it on all of the other wood.
I’ll be doing this as a standalone structure on a diorama with some extra logging disconnects and a kerosene critter to move them around. Unless Brett decides to reissue the Rigging shed in which case, I will likely combine the 2.
KCSTrains
October 2020
I really like the color you achieved. Be sure to write down the recipe. I also forget what I did and then have to try to recreate the process to get the same color. Phil
kebmo
October 2020
i’ll be following along, as this is my next project after/if i ever finish my current one.
vietnamseabee
October 2020
Bryan…just to understand…did you put the 5 coats of A/I on top of the left color or put the 5 coats on raw wood?
Terry
brownbr
October 2020
Thanks guys. Kevin, you will enjoy this one.
Phil, I wrote down the chalk colors in the front of the manual. Learned this lesson after a build where I liked the color of the walls but forgot the colors.
Terry, there are 5 coats. They went on like this: The wall on the left already has 1 coat on it. I always give a coat to the boards after the chalk is set and before I start building. A 2nd coat was applied after the wall was constructed. A 3rd coat was used to wash up the drybrushing. A 4th coat was added to add depth to the grain again after the previous step. A 5th coat was added after the sanding, brushing, etc to once again add depth. I could probably skip 1 or even 2 coats now that I know what I’m doing. It sure does have that silvery gray that I was looking for.
More will be added to the bottom of the walls for “water marks”. Maybe even a bit of slimy moss. We’ll see. Depends on what scenery I’m going for. I’m leaning East coast so slimy moss would be appropriate.
brownbr
October 2020
Here’s how it looks when you do the next steps…drybrush with 2 tone gray then wash together with IA. Think of it as a variation on the dampbrush method.
I’ll let this dry overnight before adding anymore IA or doing any sanding/brushing.
Robert.G
October 2020
Some real good looking boards you’ve got there Bryan !!!
admin
October 2020 edited October 2020
outstanding Bryan, looking forward to more for sure…
Rigging and Tool sheds coming next month!
TomMich
October 2020
Great color and weathering.
brownbr
October 2020
I used to stain exclusively using a Mike Chambers recipe with black and brown inks. I’m sure its the same as the S/S stain in appearance. I’m considering going back to that but I do like the dusty look of the chalks.
The walls are constructed. A bit of final weathering to do later as I decide on how the scenes will look. You can’t hide the fuzzies from the super close-ups.
I started prepping castings as well. Seen here is the forge. I carved a cavity to install a light feature leaving enough material around to not let any light come through. I drilled a dozen or so holes in the top of the casting down to the cavity so the embers light up.
I’m also looking at how to place this. The instructions call for a 14.5 X 15.5 base. I’m thinking I will go with a 12x18 base…same area but will fit on a shelf better. Once finalized in my mind I will order the acrylic case. Once that arrives, I can build the basic ground formations so that the cover can be lifted off.
kebmo
October 2020
did you use a dremel to gut the forge?
brownbr
October 2020
Dremel, yes. Marked out the area and checked depth frequently.
Dave_S
October 2020
Hi Bryan,
When hollowing out the forge casting do you use a slow Dremel speed so as not to cause damage to the casting from heat?
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
brownbr
October 2020
Hey Dave. I had the Dremel set to 25 (it goes to 35). Not sure if the numbers equal RPM or not. I was actually more concerned with chipping, splitting, and/or going all the way through than heat. I used a fine tooth cutting burr seen here. I hand drilled the holes and angled them towards the cavity so I wouldn’t miss it. You won’t notice them once the casting is painted. I only put holes in the center so it gave the impression that the center was hotter than the edges.
I believe there is enough room in here to put the electronics but I’ll probably put the board under the diorama just in case I have to access it at some point.
Once all done, I’ll probably just slap a piece of duck tape over the cavity so light doesn’t escape out the back. I’ll be using tiny LED’s so heat won’t be a problem.
brownbr
October 2020
I ordered my forge light today. Before it arrived I want to have the forge painted. I primed then started with the embers by adding an orange wash. All colors from SWSM paint set. Followed this up with a heavy drybrush of grimy black and washed some into the corners to make the center look hotter. Followed this with a drybrush of medium gray then light gray. On to the stones/bricks next…I’m thinking stone.
KCSTrains
October 2020
Nice job!! I can feel the heat from here. Phil
Dave_S
October 2020
Bryan,
I am looking forward to seeing this forge come alive. Thanks for the detailed explanation of how you created this along with the photos.
Perfect timing for the forge to be fired up as temperatures begin to cool down and rain and snow are in the forecast.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
AlexR
October 2020
Once all done, I’ll probably just slap a piece of duck tape over the cavity so light doesn’t escape out the back.
Bryan, for the pot belley stove i did. I used some .005 brass sheet. It’s pretty much perfect for a light block.
brownbr
October 2020
I’d have to make sure I insulated the brass just in case. Don’t want to short anything out.
brownbr
October 2020
I’m toying around with placement here and I think I have 3 options. Don’t mind the makeshift base. The cardboard is 12x18.
Option 1: structure is perpendicular to the front of the dio. I think this is the least interesting option.
Option 2: structure is angled to viewer’s left. This gives a full view down the inside of the structure from all openings as well as a free view of the side track which will be occupied. The overhead for this angle shows some possible elevation changes. A small rise to the top left, a downward slope to the bottom left, and an area for a ditch to the bottom right.
Option 3: structure is angled to the viewer’s right. I’m not sure how I feel about blocking the side track here, but it may grow on me. You never know.
Opinions?
Dave_S
October 2020
Bryan,
Interesting dilemma. Choices 2 and 3 definitely seem to make the outdoor tractor more of the focus. In option 2 the structure and indoor tractor seem to be more a part of the action. I tend to like option 2 a bit better for that reason. Perhaps photographing it on a table with a more neutral background would help make your choice more decisive.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
mikemettelka
October 2020
My vote is for number 2
dick52
October 2020
Angled is much better !
AlexR
October 2020
I would not do the building square to the base personally…
But, i’m super nee to this so. Well. That’s all i got. 
MuddyCreekRR
October 2020
I hate “squaring” any structure to the base…it just never looks natural to me…
brownbr
October 2020
Appreciate the input.
Dave, I got lazy and just sat it on a chair. I think I’m going to get one of those portable photo booths. 24"x24" should handle even a full diorama I think.
KCSTrains
October 2020 98.180.19.148
I personally like option #2. Phil
Joel
October 2020
I think it depends if you plan on installing it in a layout perpendicular is simpler but as a diorama I would always choose to place things on an angle. I like option 2. Could also play with a bit of elevation, even 1/2" would make for a bit more of a dramatic scene.
Dave_S
October 2020 edited October 2020
Bryan,
I’ve been using either a white or black sheet of foam board. My local art store often has it on special. Now I need to get a sheet and put a simple sky/clouds painted on it for a change-up.
I think Joel is onto something there with his suggestion of a bit of elevation.. Good idea/reminder, Joel. Thanks.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KKarns
October 2020
I was stuck in a rut with flat topography with my dioramas. My first use of variation in landscape elevation is my current Scotia Supply build. Despite the very subtile changes in elevation it makes a huge difference in the visual interest. I think that topography would make more of an impact versus angulation but both are certainly valid issues.
brownbr
October 2020
Thanks everyone for the input. I do plan to make some elevation changes…subtle ones, no cliffs or anything. I’ve decided to have the structure with a slight angle like version B and am now toying around with the exact placement. 2 hitches I keep running into are the placement of a possible hill near the big opening of the tractor repair side. Also, where can the AH&D boiler go…or does it even fit. Even though this configuration is the same square inches as the pilot model, it presents some different challenges in regards to these 2 hitches.
Ken, I’m trying to facilitate both a slight angle and topography changes. Rise in the back to drop in front is what I’m after.
Dave, I broke down and ordered a collapsable table-top photo booth which is scheduled to arrive today along with my diorama case. I’ll use it to finalize this decision over the weekend in between softball games.
I’ll also do a product review in a different thread. I think this might solve a lot of my problems with taking better shots.
brownbr
October 2020
As promised the photo booth and dio case arrived today. I put it together for a couple quick shots.
The likely orientation is the first set of pics from the front then the top. An alternate is to move the structure left and put the tractor and boiler on the right. I think this is a bit out of balance but could work with a tall tree in the back right corner.
PaulS
October 2020
Bryan, Looks very nice. I tend to prefer the arrangement in the top two photos but I have no doubt that you will once again come away with a very compelling diorama.
Can you tell us a little bit more about your diorama cases please.
Thanks very much and will be following your progress,
Best,
–Paul
AlexR
October 2020
brownbr said:
Thanks everyone for the input. I do plan to make some elevation changes…subtle ones, no cliffs or anything. I’ve decided to have the structure with a slight angle like version B and am now toying around with the exact placement.
What about a railroad tie retaining Wall?
That’s what i’m kind of pondering when i get to the layout point your at.
brownbr
October 2020
I like you thinking Alex. I’ve been thinking low retaining wall to the right of the tracks from the beginning.
brownbr
October 2020
It’s semi-official now. I cut out a base in 1" foam and added the relief. Small hill in rear, sloping down towards viewer and small cutout on right for retaining wall. I’ll dress the sides with some strip styrene then paint those black. Tape them up to protect as best possible then paint the base a nice dirt color. This way I only have to touch up the black dressing once everything is done and the ground cover will blend seamlessly into the edge.
I used a hot knife on the areas that look melted and may lower the hill slightly.
KCSTrains
October 2020
Bryan,
I like what you are doing. As you saw on my mine, adding topography really adds to the diorama. It will be very interesting how you do this. I’ll be following closely. Phil
KKarns
October 2020
looking good…
Joel
October 2020
Looks great.
kebmo
October 2020
pulling up a chair to learn something here…
MuddyCreekRR
October 2020
I like where you are heading…
brownbr
November 2020
Thanks guys.
The base is prepped now. The painter tape is covering the edging. I used styrene to edge the base and painted black. The last step of the whole project will be to remove the tape and touch up the black.
I laid the rail and floor and installed a retaining wall. My first thought was to have the rail heads the same height as the floor boards. I was running into some technical difficulties with this approach and went with the rail on top of the floor.
After this was complete, I painted the foam base with my favorite “dirt” colored paint and sprinkled with real dirt. Let dry and brush it off.
I installed a pair of styrene tubes as wire conduits and carved a place for the batteries and electronics below.
I believe I will work on some more castings while I think about how I want the roof to look…either same all over or 2 different materials suggesting the tractor bay was an add-on.
Dave_S
November 2020 edited November 2020
Bryan,
The base for the diorama is looking great so far. I especially like the cribbing in the retaining wall in this photo:
A nice authentic detail.
Later, Dave S. Tucson,AZ
KCSTrains
November 2020
Bryan, your base work is really looking great. I use the same approach with paint and dirt as my base. I then layer on the scenery to this base. I’m sure you will do the same. Great work. Phil
Mountaingoat
November 2020
Coming together. Looking good…Rick
Robert.G
November 2020
Nice track work !!
admin
November 2020
Love where you are going with this. Dio base looks awesome. When the base comes out this well I can only imagine what the finished dio will look like! Thanks as always for sharing your work with us.
mikemettelka
November 2020
I like where this is going
brownbr
November 2020
Thanks all. Brett, I hope to do this kit justice with this diorama. I have a few surprises in mind. We’ll see how many of them make the cut.
The resin details are in various states of completion. A few are ready to show and I’m starting to get the feel for the photo booth. Still a bit more to learn with it.
Robert.G
November 2020
Super work on the castings and the photography.
ALCO
November 2020
Loved the first pic and the drawings on the table. Very, very nice work.
dick52
November 2020
Outstanding, the details come to life !
Dave_S
November 2020
Bryan,
Super natural looking details. I especially like the oily rag in the first photo and the rusty steel drums. These very subtle touches will really make a scene come to life. Thanks for sharing these photos. Nice to read that you are getting more comfortable with the new photo booth.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KCSTrains
November 2020
The castings are fantastic. I don’t know how you could make them any better. Great job. Phil
TomMich
November 2020
Bryan, Details turned out just GREAT! Really looking forward to the completed diorama.
KCSTrains
November 2020
Bryan, I’ve always struggled with the box full of parts. Can you tell me your approach to painting them. It appears you may paint all of the parts black and then come in with a dry brush of the metal paints. Is that what you do? Just curious. Phil
Dave_S
November 2020
Good Question Phil. Bryan is quite a good teacher so I also am anxious to read his reply.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
brownbr
November 2020
Phil, are you referring to the box of discarded parts? I’ll walk through how I did that and will do a more detailed walk through on the next batch I do which will be soon. I’ll start with the lathe since I’m working on that now.
I start by priming all the castings…wood gets tan, metal gets dark brown.
For the parts bin, I did the wood first using the step by step In my Truck Repair shop thread.
For the metal junk, I picked 4 metalic colors: blackened steel, oily steel, adamantium, tarnished brass (pick your favorites). I painted individual pieces a variety of colors…you don’t have to be neat with this step. let it dry. Give a wash with AK track wash and let sit 15ish minutes then go over with brush wet with mineral spirits. This will take some of the rust off the top and wash some down in the cracks…both good things. Let dry. Dip a paper stomp into some dark steel pigments, tap most of it off then rub it all over the tops of the metal parts.
That’s it.
brownbr
November 2020
I see all the nice work areas that you all have and then I see this after painting a few castings. 
vietnamseabee
November 2020
The window looks like it’s raining outside
Terry
brownbr
November 2020
Don’t zoom to close Ed, it will suck you in like a haunted painting.
Rain by the buckets today.
KCSTrains
November 2020
Thanks for the explanation. What is a paper stomp? I’m not familiar with that term. Phil
brownbr
November 2020
Phil, I believe they are called “artist’s blending stomps”. I got some at Michaels. Basically paper rolled up tight and pointed at one end. I use these when I want to apply pigments only to the edges…brushes and sponges tend to get it in places I might not want it.
EmeryJ
November 2020
Amazon has them. Just search Paper Stump. I got a set #1-#6. They make up to #8, but that looks a bit large.
kebmo
November 2020
i thought they were called blunts. or maybe spliffs… 
KCSTrains
November 2020
Thanks. I’ll check it out. Phil
brownbr
November 2020
It’s a much smaller box of junk but the process is the same. First paint the parts inside your color of choice. I always try to use a few different colors. Next give a wash with track wash and let sit for a few minutes. Then take a brush damp with mineral spirits and wipe the tops off. Once completely dry, rub with steel weathering pigments (or graphite pencil).
brownbr
November 2020
I think the lathe can be called done.
I added some paint chips by first putting on spots of a lighter green, then filled in these dots with a grimy black, then filled these dots in with dark rust. Gave a wash with Engine Grime and wiped most of it off. Touch up the metalic parts with steel pigments.
dick52
November 2020
Looks great !
Robert.G
November 2020
Great work Bryan !!!
KCSTrains
November 2020
Thanks again for going over your process. Phil
TomMich
November 2020
Very nice! Thank you for sharing your techniques.
trains4ms
November 2020
This might have been asked, but what did you do to the green bottles? They sure look like glass to me.
Mike S.
brownbr
November 2020
Thanks guys.
Mike, the bottles were first painted silver then the green ones were painted with Tamiya “Clear Green”. The brown ones were painted with “Smoke” and followed by a coat of high gloss varnish.
trains4ms
November 2020
Thanks for getting back on how the bottles were painted. I will give it a try on my next bottles I do. I’m sure I have some that are not painted yet.
Mike S.
mikemettelka
November 2020
Gallery glass paints work well too
brownbr
November 2020
I might have to get some of the gallery glass paint. Looks like there is an abundance of colors.
brownbr
November 2020
Experiment 1 with wall coloring. I used graded colors of enamel paints and blended them together with mineral spirits. I think I’ll flip it upside down and try the other side using multiple washes of the same colors instead of a single coat blended.
KCSTrains
November 2020
The boards really look rich and believable and I have seen some pictures with the same sort of transition from rot to good wood. However, I prefer the rot transition to be a bit more transparent and not as obvious. Also, I would beat up the lower boards a bit more.
That’s my two cents worth. Phil
Joel
November 2020
Fantastiv work on painting the details. The rusted junk and bottles are outstanding.
brownbr
November 2020
I agree Phil. This is just a test section using scrap boards. I’m seeing if I can reproduce the colors on the shed wall that I posted earlier in the “mother nature weathering” thread. That look really caught my attention and I needed to try it out before I tried to put it on the walls.
Ed, I do not have any. I looked into getting some but never did.
Thanks Joel.
I used more of a wash in this side to see if I could make it more transparent as Phil suggested. I also gave a light sanding after it had some time to dry. I think I’m close to what I’m trying to achieve.
The top of the wall is what was posted earlier. I tried sanding it to tone down the opacity of the colors.
KCSTrains
November 2020
This looks a lot better. I like it. Phil
Mountaingoat
November 2020
Looks way better. I think you have achieved a great prototypical look…Rick
KKarns
November 2020
What hit me was your stellar work on the wood crates! That last picture…yikes, that’s nice…
brownbr
November 2020
Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I have the touch down now for the walls.
I’ve been detailing my details a little. Adding handles and a cap chain to the 5 gallon oil cans. What do you think the styrene pieces will be?
Robert.G
November 2020
Nice touch. Micro-detailing … 
brownbr
November 2020
Thanks Robert.
Hard to get a photo with good contrast even in the booth. This is about the best shot I could get. Can you make out the dangling cap on the can on the left?
brownbr
November 2020
I’m starting to think about the look of the roof while I have some time to decide. I’ve seen many different variations of roofing on this kit and I like them all but I think Dave Revelia’s 1:35 take is my favorite with the tarpaper covered shingles over the blacksmith addition. It is attached here. It probably would not make sense to use shake shingles on an addition like this but who cares about making sense? It might make sense to have the main structure with shingles and the addition with the board/batten roof. I mocked that up but I like the black of the tarpaper on the addition better than the main structure.
What is your favorite roof of this kit (no matter the scale)? Feel free to post the pic here.
kebmo
November 2020
wow, i really like the way that looks. got any more shots of that roof?
brownbr
November 2020
Wish I had more shots of the roof Kevin. Not many pics of this build out there. I believe it is on display at the Suncoast Center for Fine Scale Modeling in Odessa, FL. Maybe we can get Ed to pop over and get some photos for us.
kebmo
November 2020
heheheheh…
kebmo
November 2020
on your next tour of duty could you take some pictures of the roof? i found a couple on the interwebs, but that ain’t enough…
brownbr
December 2020
Over the long weekend I grew a couple of trees. First time I’ve tried pines with individual pine needles. I made them as tortured as the shed including deadwood, woodpecker damage and a nook for an owl or some other woodland critter.
Wired up the forge simulator today and it works. Next will be to install it. I also placed most of the large indoor castings and put the walls up. I’ll continue to detail the interior then install the lights. Pictures to come…I want to get some outdoor shots.
The LED’s will have plenty of room in the forge, but they are a bit fiddly. Seen here is the flicker board with 3 LED’s and 2 resisters wired in.
Mountaingoat
December 2020
The trees are incredible.
Wiring this small can be tricky but the end results are always worth it…Rick
kebmo
December 2020
paying close attention to this because i want a ‘hot’ forge too.
brownbr
December 2020
Trying to load a video of the forge but it wouldn’t load from photos. I’ll try youtube and see if that works.
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks for the comments on the trees. These were my prototypes.
kebmo
December 2020
bonsaiiii!!!
ya know, that forge effect is really cool, but it’s placement is pretty deep in the building isn’t it? will anyone be able to see it?
brownbr
December 2020
I have been growing bonsai for almost 20 years. I wish mine looked as good as these.
Placement is not a problem Kevin. This shot is from the front of the diorama. The forge has a great view.
EmeryJ
December 2020 edited November 2023
Bryan, if I looked up WOW in the encyclopedia, I bet I would find one of your models! Thanks for all of the great ideas!!
kebmo
December 2020
very cool and good to know.
last year my daughter took me to the chicago arboretum and they have a collection of bonsai trees that are 300 + years old and would make great g scale trees…
kebmo
December 2020 edited December 2020
sorry, chicago botanic garden. really cool place.
EricMG
December 2020
Those trees are dancing!
KCSTrains
December 2020
Great trees. So realistic. I’m sure a lot of work went into making them. Phil
brownbr
December 2020
If I ever make it back to Chicago I’ll check it out. The National Arboretum in DC has a nice collection also.
Eric, dancing is a nice description. Always want a little movement in my trees.
Phil it’s not as hard as you think. The trees start as a bundle of wire as seen in first pic. I hammer in 2 nails about 15" apart and wind the wire around about 30 times. It’s 26g floral wire. Twist like seen here…long side is the tree, short side the roots. Start twisting until you get the basic structure. I covered the trunks and as much of the branches as I could with DAS clay. Brushed on a couple layers of latex on the tips to hide the twists. Knots and cavities can be added on easily with the clay. After it was dry I brushed on glue and sprinkled on dry leaves that were sent through a coffee grinder. Then brush the tips with glue and use a static grass applicator and add long grass fibers to make the fine branch tips. Spray paint dark brown then I drybrushed several colors of brown and gray followed by a final wash with IA. Brush the fine tips with glue again and put on short dark grass for the pine needles.
After the clay is dry and before painting I secured them to the piece of wood using a drywall screw. There will be a hole in the bottom from the screw and I’ll insert a small dowel to give support on the dio.
Oh, and I hope my blacksmith can find the right hammer somewhere in here.
TomMich
December 2020
Those trees turned out really nice! Thanks for the step by step process.
KCSTrains
December 2020
Thanks for the tutorial. I’ll have to give it a try some time. Phil
sdrees
December 2020
Very nice looking trees
kebmo
December 2020
indeed they are.
kebmo
December 2020
engine909 said:
Dude, when I drop in on you can we go there?
After a guitar solo.
of course
brownbr
December 2020
Hoot hoot
Dave_S
December 2020 edited December 2020
Bryan,
Excellent. Makes me smile. In my area we have several pairs of nesting great horned owls. Sometimes when I am out walking before sunrise I can hear and see them on chimneys calling to each other, then out of no where I feel a whoosh over my head only to see that one of them just buzzed near my head before lighting on a saguaro or rooftop. They are incredibly amazing predators.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
kebmo
December 2020
that’s so cool…
Mountaingoat
December 2020
Whooo would have thunk it. Great detail…Rick
brownbr
December 2020
The bird and the puns make me smile. I always enjoy humor in my builds. I think a rabbit in the weeds might be in order for this predator Dave.
I ordered a really nice owl from Shapeways but he turned out to be too big to fit in the hole here. This one came from Wiseman. I’ll try to touch up around his eyes a bit and tone down the beak after seeing this photo.
All of the castings have been painted now and I’m starting to place them around. Still working on tractor construction. Once I get the interior castings placed, I’ll start wiring lights. AlexR made me a support to hold the diorama in place while I wire underneath. Seems he did not think I should hold it in place with a paint can and 1-2-3 blocks. Thanks Alex!
EmeryJ
December 2020
Your creativity never ceases to amaze me. I wish I could come up with great details like that. Thanks for sharing those!!
brownbr
December 2020
The Cat’s almost done. I was hoping the dirt accumulation on the lower hull would look a bit more clumpy.
vietnamseabee
December 2020
It looks well used…great modeling
Terry
TomMich
December 2020
Really nice! Cat turned out very nice!
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks Terry.
Temporary placement of the trees to get a feel for the scenes. I added a couple of dead vines to the tree on the right. I made the low area near the tracks a wet area with greenery, a rusted metal barrel and a rotten wood barrel. Water to come.
KKarns
December 2020
Looking great…love the trees.
kebmo
December 2020
engine909 said:
I an encouraged to attempt some scenery.
Right know I am freezing in Florida. Cargo shorts and a t-shirt. Stupidity rules. 52 degrees.
its 55 here today. seems pretty warm, but its all relative.
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan- would you post a photo of the yellow paint you used please.
brownbr
December 2020
thanks Ken. The owl was an invitation for you to put a squirrel on your power lines.
Ed, coldest day of the fall here today. Got to freezing last night. Kind of early for us but not for Chicago.
Alex. I used this product for the first time. Had good results. Robert tried to convince me I needed an airbrush some time ago. He is right, but I couldn’t justify the cost at the time. Maybe one of these days.
Joel
December 2020
Bryan, fantastic stuff, so much to take in.
Robert.G
December 2020
Great looking trees !!! I like greens and plants and flowers on a diorama. And the OWL !
admin
December 2020
Love the trees, really adds that extra detail to the diorama.
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys. I think they are happy trees.
Kidding aside, I was experimenting with pine cones yesterday so Brett’s 3D printer post today was timely. I found these little buds on a dwarf spruce. You can get a feel for the size of them next to the casting in the container. I tried one on a tree but found that they look oversized (they are about 4"x8" scale) and lack detail. Covering the tree in these will take away from the tree not add to it I think. Looking forward to seeing what Brett comes up with.
KKarns
December 2020
What about rice grains?..giving them texture might be challenging…
brownbr
December 2020
Good idea Ken. Tried it already and you are right about the texture. Cut the grain in half and its the right size. Even when painted it doesn’t look right. Better to not do it than to have it not look right.
KCSTrains
December 2020
I used poppy seeds, but this is more applicable to HO. Phil
ALCO
December 2020
How much does a 2nd hand electron microscope cost?
brownbr
December 2020
I get a kick out of seeing miniature art displayed with a magnifier attached.
Got the lampshades put together. It’s a fiddly process but worth the effort. Start with stamped shades and .025 stainless tube. Cut the tube to length by putting in pin vise, snug down the chuck without crushing the tube, and cut with a very fine razor saw. Take the shaded and poke a hole in the cone then run a .026 drill bit through. I use the pick to try to flare out one end of the tube just a bit. Slide the large shade onto the unflared end and hopefully it stops at the flared end. Put a tiny bit of superglue on the top of the cone where it meets the tube. Try not to let any get on the underside where it will clog up the hole of the tube. If so, it can be drilled out…I also make a couple extras in each batch…lesson learned. After the glue is completely dry, repeat for the other end which is a ceiling/wall cap. You can see in the photos that a couple of the small ones are not quite square. Not to worry, these will straighten out when they get attached to the ceiling/wall. For the goose neck, I slowly rolled the tube around a drill bit…maybe around 3/16". After I was satisfied with the shape I put in the pin vise and cut it off.
Tomorrow I will thread the wiring into the tubes and give a coat of brown primer. Priming the wires helps hide them in the structure. I just put a small piece of painter’s tape on each end so I know which wire is which. A couple other tips on wiring with magnet wire (other lessons learned): Twist the wire for the full length of the wire. It’s much easier to work with inside the building and tie a knot in the end of the wire so they don’t get mixed up when wiring to the board.
More tomorrow.
EmeryJ
December 2020
Bryan, I have all the same stuff as in these pics, but never could get the bends to work right. Kept kinking or crushing it. Wasted many a tubes. I finally gave up and ordered the dam things. It may be really cool to show how you got these to actually bend decently. Saving all my parts for the simple drop down versions that I can’t hardly ass up.
sdrees
December 2020
Emeryl, I have made the gooseneck lamps in HO scale. I have the jig from Ngineering. I threaded a wire thru the tube before I did any bending.
EmeryJ
December 2020
I saw that one from Ngineering for HO. Tried 3D printing few different designs for O scale. It was a disaster, so I cut my losses in time and effort. EvansDesigns is very reasonable and good people.
Robert.G
December 2020
Those look wonderful !
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys.
Emory, to get the bend right I hold the tube tight against a round object. I used a drill bit with a 1/4" shank for this bend but I have used a 1/4" threaded bolt as well. The bolt was easier because I used 2 together almost like a vise to hold the tube in place but I can’t seem to find them right now. so your thumb will take the place of the 2nd bolt.
Hold the tube tight in place (perpendicular) against the shank of your round object with your thumb. Keep a little bit hanging to one side with the long end to the other. With the other thumb press and roll the tube around the round object. You are basically pressing it into place not trying to bend it. It will take the shape of the round object without crushing or kinking. When you are happy with first bend, reposition your round object and get your 2nd bend using same process. Not as easy as a jig but it works.
Stephen is right about putting the wire in before bending. It is easier to do but it’s not impossible to do after it is bent as long as you twist the wires.
Speaking of wires, my new spool of magnet wire is a tangled mess and is unusable. I ordered more so wiring is on a temporary hold.
KKarns
December 2020
Technical wizardry!
EmeryJ
December 2020
Thanks Bryan. Appreciate the help.
brownbr
December 2020
I’ll get some pics when I pick the wiring back up Emery.
brownbr
December 2020
Been working on the interior and the roof. Still lots to do but I’ll need the interior mostly finished before wiring and the roof over the main structure completed before the rest of the landscaping can proceed. The roof will be removable but the far right panel that is under the tree branch will be fixed in place.
I’d like to find some pics of a roof, or other wooden structure that is stained by years of pine tar accumulation for that back corner of the right roof panel. If you have any, post them here.
mikemettelka
December 2020
Wow… that looks great
KCSTrains
December 2020
Unbelievable work. Such detail!!! Phil
admin
December 2020
Love it Bryan. I really like the air tank on the wheelbarrow style cart. Gonna have to “appropriate” that idea!
ALCO
December 2020
The newspaper on the chair and the drawing on the slanted desktop say that someone was just here and will be back soon. That’s really neat.
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys. I have the right figure who just left the chair I think.
Brett, the compressor seemed right. I’m sure you will make a better version. This casting was a bit muddy. I was thinking that a fire extinguisher on wheels might work in this scene also.
admin
December 2020
excellent idea!
Dave_S
December 2020 edited December 2020
Bryan,
Those drafting tools that Brett recently tantalized us with should help make the scene with the chair and drafting table even more detailed. Dynamite scene! Creativity abounds.
Later Dave S. Tucson
brownbr
December 2020
I agree Dave. Can’t wait to get some of those. Still lots to do with fine details in this area. Those would look great in there.
Dave_S
December 2020
Bryan,
I like to think of you as “the denizen of detail.” Your work has always been inspirational. Contest level modeling at its best. A quick cursory look is fine to begin with but then a close observer gets sucked in to savor all the fine details in a vignette within a scene.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks Dave. Thats a very nice thing to say. Your check is in the mail. Don’t try tracking it.
KKarns
December 2020
Great interior details…
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan,
How did you do the rusted out drum? Sand through a casting?
Robert.G
December 2020
Indeed, Bryan, great work on the details… again
brownbr
December 2020 70.160.128.90
Alex, that drum was a partial fill resin casting. I bought some years ago from a guy who found a way to make money on his casting mistakes. I wish I had bought more because he hasn’t sold them since. There were metal and wood barrels in the bunch. The first pic shows them unfinished followed by placement in scene. I’ve really enjoyed using them.
Thanks Robert. I was reviewing your build yesterday while I worked on the roof panels. Should have something to show later today.
kebmo
December 2020
what a lucky find. that’d be nice if someone else make some money on casting mistakes. there’s actually a market for them…
they look great.
brownbr
December 2020
You are right Kevin. I previously emailed the first pick to a certain you-know-who a while back.
2 roof panels are close to being done. The first pic shows the area that will be under a tree branch. I darkened it and put some scratch line where the tree branch would be moving back and forth in the wind. Trying to decide now on whether to try adding moss. It makes sense to me but it has to be right. I’ll probably give it a try on a test piece before glueing anything down.
I have found a new appreciation for my HO friends skills. I decided to shingle the tractor repair roof. For no other reason than I think it will look good. Kevin sent me some specs on the shingles he is using for his Idaho Hotel. But I decided to make the shingles using HO scale 1X material. Boy that stuff is thin! It’s all grained and stained just need to start making shingles. I hope I calculated my needs right because I don’t want to grain and stain any more HO stripwood…until the next roof. In O scale the shingles will be scale 4,5 & 6" wide and 18-24" long. They will be about scale 1/2" thick. Should look about right.
EmeryJ
December 2020
Those casting “mistakes” are the PERFECT junk. I can see many applications for them.
Namely burning barrels with fire flickering LEDs installed. Nice scene with a bunch of hobos gathered around it.
My neighbor buddy is always wanting to help with something on the RR. He is a dentist, so I think I will turn him loose on a couple drums to see if he can do his magic with a drill.
kebmo
December 2020
that’d be great bryan. i’ve seen many many barrels in that condition, and they would look great in certain applications.
brownbr
December 2020
Emery, if you try that I might suggest using barrels that are not solid. Tichy, Tamiya and Grandt all have styrene barrels that would be easier to work with than solid resin.
kebmo
December 2020
good point
i might have to order some, but i doubt that i’d be able to make them look as good as yours.
brownbr
December 2020
I tried a few different products/methods for moss and I think I have a winner. Now the question is can I make it look realistic. My favorite is the blob spanning the tape line. It is ground up foam that was glued in place then painted an appropriate color.
TomMich
December 2020
Roof is really great. I agree the moss in the center looks best.
KKarns
December 2020
Yup…center “blob”!
KCSTrains
December 2020
Ditto. Phil
Dave_S
December 2020
Going Once,
Going Twice,
Sold!
We’ve got a winner.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Sakman
December 2020 edited December 2020
Love the owl. Nice work
Jim M
December 2020
This is a real beautiful job of modeling. Fantastic job.
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks all. I do plan on adding the moss. And that might be up next.
I did the tractor repair section of the roof different than the main roof. I took the look of Dave Revelia’s roof and matched it more to the other roof and this is what I got.
Mountaingoat
December 2020
Wow! That is impressive. Really good looking multi-repairs. No money spent here for long term service…Rick
KKarns
December 2020
Nice and grungy looking. Nice work.
kebmo
December 2020
that looks fantastically shitty. very believable cruddiness everywhere. i love it.
KCSTrains
December 2020
I have to ditto Kevin’s comment. I couldn’t have said it better myself. Phil
Joel
December 2020
Great stuff. Love the rotting barrels and roof.
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan. The roof came out very well.
admin
December 2020
roof looks fabulous!
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys.
Rick, I’m not sure if its a lack of money or lack of motivation for the repairs. We’ll have to judge the LP workers and see.
From now on I will be shooting for fantastically shitty in presentations.
Working on a metal roof cap now for the semi-shingled portion of roof. Will go with wood for other section.
brownbr
December 2020
Too much roof moss?
kebmo
December 2020
nice!! how’d you that?
jk
AlexR
December 2020
brownbr said:
Thanks guys.
Working on a metal roof cap now for the semi-shingled portion of roof. Will go with wood for other section.
Do you have time to show the steps on your metal roof weathering? I’ve only had moderate to no success this far..
brownbr
December 2020
Hey Alex. I didn’t stake “during” photos but here’s what I did.
I used lead foil as the base. If you are not familiar with it, you can get some where military models are sold. You can use heavy duty aluminum foil as a substitute which is probably more in scale for thickness but you will need to prime it and handle with more care.
Cut 1/2" lengths of the foil then cut those into 1.5" or so lengths. Place a piece of brass rod on a flat surface. I used a piece of .045 which was in the kit. Center the foil over the rod and start pressing down with your fingers. Some will get crooked…reposition the foil and do it again. When you get it pressed down all the way you will start to see the form taking shape. Take a couple pieces of scrap wood…thick pieces like 1/4" or 3/16" and lay them on both sides of the foil where you pressed down. Keep the brass rod in place and press the wood pieces together towards the rod. You will get the shape shown here.
To paint I started with a light gray enamel wash mixed in with a dirt/dust wash. I did not prime but if you use aluminum foil you will have to prime. My dirt wash is the thinner I use to clean my brushes. I never clean out the bottle just keep adding spirits to the jar. When dry, take a small piece of sponge with tweezers and blot on a rust texture. Dark rust paint will do but I use Vallejo “rust texture”. Once dry, add a bit of track wash to the rust spots then thin those with mineral spirits which softens the edges. Add a bit of rust streak pin wash if you like. This is where these panels are in the pics. As a final step, I may add 1 more layer of dust.
To install them I will put my roof together by running a bead of glue with a small piece of scrapwood like a scale 3x3 to hold the panels together. This must be done in place on the structure. I got a tip a while back about using a ziplock baggie with some dirt or ballast in it to lay on the roof so it dries in the right shape. Once the glue is dry I’ll start adding the metal ridge pieces with epoxy. Use your finger to fold them down flush with the roof. I’ll pick the best ones first cause I won’t need all that I made.
brownbr
December 2020
I got the moss added and I’m pleased with the results. I added a bit all the way around to tie everything together. I believe a tree sprouting in the valley between the 2 roofs will look cool. Just not like the one I posted earlier.
For the moss, I mixed 50/50 white glue water. Brushed it on where I wanted the moss then sprinkled a bit of the ground foam and pressed it in with my finger. Tap off the excess and repeat where you like it. When the glue dried I painted with light slimy green, added a dot of dark slimy green then blended those together. Touched a couple spots with streaking rust.
KCSTrains
December 2020
Those are some fine, decrepit roofs!! Phil
KKarns
December 2020
Wonderful roof work. I like the muted moss variable color rather than the brighter green. That roof is a model all by itself!
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan- thanks.
It seems like this diorama will be every bit as interesting as the into the woods one.
I’m in San Antonio for the week and there’s a hobby shop here that i’ll go to. I’ll look for some of the lead you mentioned as well as a few other things. I’ll make a list based off of your recommendations.
kebmo
December 2020
loolking forward to seeing the finished project
Robert.G
December 2020
What a result !!. Thanks for the small tutorial.
vietnamseabee
December 2020
Bryan…what a great learning tool you’ve provided…thanks, buddy…
Terry
admin
December 2020
Just might be my favorite of all your models so far. Just outstanding. Thanks for the tutorial!
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys.
Kevin your comment about finishing got me thinking on what was left to do. Turns out the list is a bit long. Starting on the Bates today. Got my HR department looking for the right job applicants.
Biggest thing holding me up right now though is waiting on parts to install the lights.
TomMich
December 2020
That is 1 outstanding roof!
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks Tom.
The magnet wire came in and I got the shades threaded. They are primed and hanging to dry in this pic. There are a couple of steps that make working with this wire much easier.
- Make sure your wire is long enough…if you need a foot, make it 2. You can cut some off easier than adding some on.
- Always twist your wire. I have a handy tool with an alligator clip soldered into a brass rod. Clip it to the wire and start spinning.
- after you thread it through the tube, put a piece of painter tape on the end where the LED goes and tie a knot in the other end. This way you can tell the color of your wires after priming and you don’t get wires crossed on the board. If you cut some length off the wire, tie another knot in the end.
More on the wiring later.
I was able to assemble the Bates, paint it and start weathering. Going with very little rust, some chipped paint and accumulated mud/dust on the lower hull. These pics show where the mud is starting to accumulate. I won’d make it any thicker but the photos show area that need to have the edges softened. I’ll stipple on more of the mud in these locations. Once this is all dry, I’ll add a few grime streaks and start adding the treads.
HR department came through with some warm bodies. Hard to call all of them workers though.
admin
December 2020
BATES looks so nasty and Fantastic!!! Love the idea of adding some grime streaks and maybe some oil/fuel leaks and streaks too?
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks Brett. I’ve been looking around for some good reference photos on this beast and most are either rusted wrecks or museum pieces so it’s hard to find good in-use pieces. I did find several cool shots of the Bates Steel Mule. You and Keith Wiseman should get together and make a kit of this!!
I put on some streaks for dirty grime and some fuel/grease. Also did a pin wash on panel lines, etc. I’ll see how it looks tomorrow. May need to darken or lighten streaks. After that I think 1 final layer of dust will do it.
The accumulated mud is starting to look more realistic now.
admin
December 2020
that fuel stain is perfecto!
dick52
December 2020
Beautiful!
Breeze
December 2020
that’s fantastic!
nextceo
December 2020
Hey, great work dude…those rusted panels on the previous page are spot on…
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys.
I’m thinking with pine trees, there would be an abundance of pine needles everywhere. I feel like the 2 roof valleys would be full of them. I’m trying to make them look right before I decide to secure them.
Dave_S
December 2020
Bryan,
Great looking roof. Neat idea to add pine needles in the valleys. A new realistic dimension in roof debris.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KCSTrains
December 2020
Aren’t pine needles more orangish brown? They also tend to matt together. I know this from the many years of raking up pine needles. Phil
brownbr
December 2020
Working on the color right now Phil. The needles above are cut jute twine. Thought that would give a natural color but it’s too much on the yellow side. I have a batch drying now that I colored with some burnt umber ink/alcohol. If they turn out OK I can either remove the ones from the roof and color them or color them in place after securing them.
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan. I would think the middle of the valley would have little debris. Due to the volume combined with velocity of the water from the water shed area all collecting and flushing the valleys.
Maybe it hasn’t rained in some time?
Thus, i would think there would be more debris on the roof panels with the least slope. The rail part has a very steep slope. However, the blacksmith area’s slope is what 1-3 degrees? I think that is where most of the buildup would be.
My two cents.
ALCO
December 2020
Lots of textures on the roof that are blended wonderfully! Raising the bar.
Dave_S
December 2020
Bryan,
Sounds like a good plan. And Phil is spot on about cleaning them of a shake shingle roof. What a pain! Thanks for the memory, Phil. (Not!!!)
Later, Dave
brownbr
December 2020
Good input Alex. I’ve been looking around for some photos of roofs that I like. I’ll keep looking. Till then I’ll put this bit on hold.
I took it outside today to get a few all around shots in natural light. This helps me look for touchup areas.
And the removable section of roof.
TomMich
December 2020
Very nice! I also think the needles would collect more in the lower portion of the roof valley due to being washed down.
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan- the pine needles on the forge roof would also explain the rot and repairs. The roof really did come out very well.
brownbr
December 2020
Wiring has commenced. Lights are installed and wires routed throughout. I’m using this handy support that I got from Alex. A most helpful tool. I did change my battery choice to a 9V vs 4xAA. Gives me more room to work but I didn’t cut my recess deep enough. I’ll make up the difference on rubber feet on the bottom of the base. Next up: wire in the switches and mount to the base.
KKarns
December 2020
Wonderful roof details Bryan…the above pics…hmmm..uh…Mom!..
AlexR
December 2020
Bryan, i found some large clear rubber feet at home depot. They’re a very soft rubber and grip really well. I think they were about 1/2" tall or so and about 1/2" diameter. I used them for a similar reason.
brownbr
December 2020
back to playing around with the roof. I darkened the pine needles but I think I can go another shade darker based on these prototypes. Adding some texture variety helps also.
ALCO
December 2020
Yep, darker will blend with rest of roof. Like the leaves.
TomMich
December 2020
Yes darker. Love the seedling sprouting. Those needles have been there a while!
AlexR
December 2020
From what it sounds like, the first reference photo would be the most applicable? Structure buried within a heavily wooded area? Glad you were able to find those photos, i would not have thought there would be build up like that…
But, then again- i live in dallas and we have nearly zero old trees
KCSTrains
December 2020
The second picture is what I’m used to. The pine needles you have in the middle are closer to what I would expect to see. The lighter color looks more like straw. Phil
KKarns
December 2020
The dark is working well, amazing details
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys. Made some more progress today. Photos to come.
My static grass applicator broke again today. Think it’s time for a new one. I’m looking at the one Robert suggested. The grass turned out OK but it was working intermittently. I’ll let the glue dry and brush it out then decide tomorrow if it stays or if I need a miniature lawn mower and start over.
AlexR
December 2020
brownbr said:
I’m looking at the one Robert suggested.
I am doing the same-! Whatever you do… don’t watch any youtubes on it… just don’t (it will make the wait that much more difficult).
EmeryJ
December 2020
I ordered the RTS 55kV on 12/9/2020 from the Netherlands. It is still not here. Been chomping for it to arrive!! Soon I hope.
brownbr
December 2020
Alex and Emery. I went shopping with the intention of getting the 35k and ended up with the overkill option of the 55k. Just couldn’t help myself. Hopefully it won’t take the long way around the globe to get to me. I’ll wait to do any further landscaping until it arrives.
Removing static grass is not hard in case you ever need to do it. I used a sanding stick to cut some walking paths through a field of grass on my layout. Works great.
brownbr
December 2020
Here’s the update photos promised yesterday. Got some well lit shots outdoors.
Color on the pine needles ended up just right. On the photo of the Bates Steel Mule posted earlier I noticed a handle and latch on the engine compartment. I added them to 1 side (lost the other side set)…looking at the photo of the side of this Bates shows me that the handle broke off. Super small and fragile. I went with a darker dirt tone than I normally do. Presumably it rained yesterday and there are still a few puddles in the gravel driveway.
The rack out back answers Ricks question earlier about roof repair. The supplies are on hand, but the guys never seem to get around to it.
The grass did not turn out horribly but a lot of it is not standing up the way I want. When the fancy new applicator arrives I will likely redo this area.
TomMich
December 2020
Brian, this turned out great! Love the details out back and the crane is a nice addition.
AlexR
December 2020
Thst’s really well done Bryan. The trees are wonderful.
Are the track marks still visible? I saw them a couple posts ago.
Joel
December 2020
Great texture and colour on the roof. Really pops when you take the pictures outside.
sdrees
December 2020
EmeryJ and Brownbr will you please let us know how the RTS55kv applicator works when you get them.
Dave_S
December 2020
Bryan,
Incredible texture! Outstanding color rendition and contrast! Bravo! Your level of detail just kicked the bar up a few more notches. What was once the “high jump” in modeling has now begun to look more like a pole vault.
For SWSM forum members it is a great thing that you still have a stash of more kits to build. If possible, it might be interesting to see the evolution of the current build of a kit juxtaposed to the earlier build of the same kit.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
KCSTrains
December 2020
Bryan, this is just great. The pine straw turned out great as well. As Dave says, you really have a way with textures and contrasts and details. I’ve always loved the way you put your touch on each of these kits. Great job. Phil
Mountaingoat
December 2020
Oh to see new rolled roofing just sitting on the rack. Great little detail. So many around this build. Exceptional modeling Bryan. I’m sure no one can find all the little scenarios with so many, but that is what makes it so incredibly realistic. Pine needles, WOW!..Rick
Robert.G
December 2020
I agree with Rick and the others, fantastic diorama. Well done.
brownbr
December 2020
Thanks guys. The variety in texture and mini-scenes is what I have learned from watching the modelers on this site.
Alex, some of the track marks are still visible but some were lost to the gravel and going under the Cat.
admin
December 2020
Superb work Bryan. I absolutely love the roof and added details… scenery is awesome as well.
Jerry
December 2020
Very nicely done.
Jerry
KKarns
December 2020 174.103.25.219
Killer Bryan!..wonderful scene construction and finish.
brownbr
December 2020
Thank you.
Oh Ken…master of detail, doctor of grunge…don’t call this one finished quite yet. Still lots to do.
KKarns
January 2021
Nah…I meant finish work on your details…I know you have some additional puttering to wrap this one up…anxious to see this piece in its final present!
brownbr
January 2021
I’ve been working on the track side of the shed lately. Weeds, stains, details, etc on the tracks and against the wall. I built a Fordson critter to presumably move the disconnects around. It was made as standard gauge and bringing it down to On30 was not easy. It’s a bit crooked at the radiator and left rear wheel. I’ll see if I can live with that…it does give it a certain charm.
Also working on a pair of disconnects waiting for repair. Originally though about a bobber caboose but after I mocked it up I went with the disconnects.
Added a smokestack for the forge also.
Workers have a first coat of paint on them. I tried some of the ModelU figures like Scott used also. Cool positions, but limited surface detail on them.
KKarns
January 2021
Whoa, that’s a wild looking tractor…what is that? Cool scene.
admin
January 2021
Outstanding. I love the old SS Ltd Kerosene Loco. Always wanted to build that. Looks so good with the disconnects. and that stack is superb.
Robert.G
January 2021
Very good and original scene. The moss on the roof is well done!!
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks Robert. Ken, you can get an HO scale version of this from Keith Wiseman. Brett, I will likely get another one to build in standard gauge. I’d like to add a canopy to it but when I narrowed the frame everything got too crunched to do it. Narrowing also crunched the chain drive against the tractor and once again got things a bit crooked. Overall though I do like the way it looks.
brownbr
January 2021
I’m trying to model a bit of damage in progress. One of the supports on the disconnects has a missing bracket in the casting. I used some lead foil and NBW castings to model it in the progress of being broken off. Started by putting a piece of masking tape where the bracket would go before the last step of the weathering process to leave an impression. Then added the mangled bracket.
ALCO
January 2021
Every square inch is wonderful. Amazing!
Joel
January 2021
Amazing build, just a joy to follow. Thanks for sharing.
KCSTrains
January 2021
Wow, your additions keep making this scene more and more outstanding. Well done. Phil
KKarns
January 2021
Love your wood treatment…broken bracket looks just as it should…like a broken old bracket…the look you were going for I assume! Lol…
MuddyCreekRR
January 2021
Coming together really well…I need to get back into the shop…I’m inspired…
TomMich
January 2021
Great detail!
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks guys. This side of the dio is nearly complete with only small details left to add. Time to move back indoors to the blacksmith bay.
Guard dog or hairy doorbell…you decide.
smason2
January 2021
Truly amazing job, Brian. You’re making me want to build this one.
Scott
brownbr
January 2021
You would like this kit Scott.
KKarns
January 2021
Great looking scene…the mice are getting well fed!
brownbr
January 2021
I do have some rats that I was thinking of adding to the marsh area. Could have used some goats also to remove the grass (;
The new static grass applicator came in. I did a test piece and boy does it make the grass stand up and salute! I took the grass areas out and will redo them with the new applicator. If you ever need to do this, it is not hard just be careful of the surrounding details. I started with a razor blade and a #18 blade…basically shaving the grass. Follow this with a sanding stick and sand paper to get most of the grass out. A wire brush cleaned out all of the small depressions in the soil. I gave a very light coat of dirt and secured with glue/water. That’s where we are now. Let dry overnight and then I can redo the grass.
admin
January 2021
I love this scene. The guy sitting on the scaffold is a nice touch.
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks Brett.
This area is nearly complete. Or should I say its done unless I find something else to add that strikes my fancy.
To start I used the new applicator to lay down the grass. To address Ken’s concern about making it look like a golf course I did it this way. I used 3 colors and 2 lengths of grass. I did not blanket the area but applied glue in a random fashion to simulate grass growing in clumps. Once this dried, I touched the tops of a couple areas of grass and applied a second layer. The grass area in the back is lighter in color and application.
When this had all dried I added ground up and sifted dried leaves to the grass and helped it settle down to the ground with tweezers then drybrushed the tops of the blades with beige paint. I touched some areas of grass tops with glue and added some more of the ground leaves and some noch leaves which I had previously toned down the color with some brown ink/alcohol. Add some flowers because I like the color, a few random castings, dead branches, etc.
On the back side I added more pine needles to the ground and castings that would have been in place for a long time…this includes the extra roofing material (;
I’ve removed the painters tape from the edges and will put a fresh coat of black paint on the edges.
I do plan on adding some rusty barbed wire with a pair of posts that are leaning because a big branch fell on the wire from the tree on the hill. This will likely be the last landscape project.
I’ll get better photos outdoors soon.
TomMich
January 2021
Great landscape work! Love the pine needles on the shelf.
KKarns
January 2021
Great scene right here…accumulated pine needles great idea!
Mountaingoat
January 2021
Those guys will never use the rolled roofing now! Great scenery work. Interesting how each layer added another visual dimension. The flowers made a huge contribution…Rick
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks guys.
Rick, layering is the best tip I ever learned from building SW kits. It’s in every manual and in every build on this forum. It applies to every facet of our builds.
brownbr
January 2021
I’m putting the final touches on this one. Still need to paint up a few details and place them. I am having fun with this detail so I thought I’d share.
I’m fond of this one too.
Everything is installed now except the fire extinguisher which still needs to be built. A few quick shots here of the inhabitants. They look natural when viewing the dio but close-ups reveal that I need another figure painting class. Next set of shots will be outdoors of completed dio…maybe this weekend.
ALCO
January 2021
These latest details blow my mind! Never, never seen such creativity. Thanks for stretching the boundaries.
KCSTrains
January 2021
Wow!!! The detail work is stunning. Really adds to each scene. I’ve never seen such great use of LP. Phil
TomMich
January 2021
Outstanding! Love all the little extras you have incorporated, especially the butterfly!
Karl.A
January 2021
Fantastic detailing Bryan, wonderful work, figures are very naturally posed.
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks guys. I do love my LP. To Karl’s point, I am pleased with their placement in the scenes, just want to make more believable faces next time. I find that most figures in this scale lack good facial details so it’s important to add the shadows and highlights to the faces to simulate the missing detail. I did have some fun adding things like paper to the foreman’s clipboard and adding newspaper print to the guy lounging on the critter.
I added a toolbox and a tarp for the guy laying on the gravel. Kind of felt sorry for him. Also added the wheeled fire extinguisher yesterday. As mentioned, I will get final photos taken outdoors on the next sunny day. We got snow last night so it likely won’t happen today.
Last count on inhabitants:
10 adults, 1 child
1 Yorkie
1 cat (licking himself)
1 squirrel
1 owl
1 bluebird
1 sparrow
a pair of nesting robins
a pair of goldfinches
4 butterflies
2 dragonflies
1 fly (in a spiderweb)
That’s all unless I lost count.
Starting to think ideas for the next build.
Rigging shed in a fall scene with frost and maybe a dusting of snow.
Oil derrick with a Case tractor power supply
Steam pile driver
Steam log unloader for sawmill
Mill engine/boiler house (power for shingle mill)
1:20 scale Dolbeer
Mountaingoat
January 2021
Speechless…Rick
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks Rick.
A quick shot with the dust cover fitted.
Karl.A
January 2021
Looks great in the case Bryan, beautiful job all around.
admin
January 2021
Can’t ever go wrong with a beautiful diorama under an acrylic case. Show stopper!
AlexR
January 2021
Bryan-! Everything came out great. Your dio’s are always very interesting with lots of character!
I like all the dudes, they add to the story.
Bill
January 2021
Whoa!
Now THAT’S the way to display your hard work! Outstanding, Bryan.
Can you share any details on your case?
Wonderful result all around!
brownbr
January 2021
Thanks guys. I’ll get to those outdoors shots one of these days soon.
Bill, I’ve gotten 3 acrylic cases from a company called ShopPopDisplays. First one had no base and I made it myself. 2nd one had a wood base. This one had a black acrylic base. I won’t get another acrylic base. You can order them from a set of pre-sized selections or have them custom build to the size you need. I’m a big fan.
KKarns
January 2021
Killer display and build…total package!
SteveCuster
February 2021
Great display Bryan! How well does the case keep the dust out?
brownbr
February 2021
Thanks Ken and Steve. The dust cover works as advertised. Very handy not only at keeping out the dust, but keeping fragile parts from being dinged.
brownbr
February 2021
Finally got a day with sunlight that I could take this outside and get some final shots. I’m calling this one done.
Dave_S
February 2021
Bryan,
This group of final photos taken outside shows off your artistry to maximum effect.
Thanks for waiting for a nice sunny day and taking the time to post them for us to savor.
Plenty to look at, enjoy and learn from. The pine needles definitely add that touch of realism that make the scene extraordinarily realistic.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Mountaingoat
February 2021
I agree with Dave. Also I am surprised how much the LP gives life to the scene…Rick
KCSTrains
February 2021
Outstanding Bryan. It really looks good. BTW you nailed the pine straw. Phil
brownbr
February 2021
Thanks guys. I just love this kit and am so glad I did a second version of it.
Next time, hope to improve the individual LP painting Rick. I do enjoy placing them on dioramas because of what you said. They are a pain to try to make them look just right though.
Dave and Phil, I appreciate your feedback early in the pinestraw experiments.
admin
February 2021
Simply outstanding, what an amazing diorama! I especially love the roofing.
TomMich
February 2021
GREAT job! Love all the detail. So much to look at. That place is a flurry of activity.
MuddyCreekRR
February 2021
Very Very nicely done…
CarlLaskey
February 2021
Nice work Bryan real nice be proud.
ALCO
February 2021
The way your diorama blends into Mother Nature attest to your mastery of colors and textures. Thanks for sharing!
AlexR
February 2021
Bryan,
Thanks for sharing these photos…
i’ll be referencing these for sure.
i need to get that static grass applicator…
Do you plan on taking any evening photos? i would be intested to see how your light placement worked out.
brownbr
February 2021
Thanks guys.
Alex, I am happy with the grass applicator. But I do miss the cone-shaped applicator nozzle that came with the Noch applicator that I replaced. Getting used to a larger applicator surface is taking some time to get the feel for.
I was able to snap some pics with the lights on. Unfortunately I was not able to get a very good pic of the forge. Can’t pick it up with the lights on and can’t get a clear shot with the lights off. It’s there but Kevin asked a valid question early on in the build as to whether it was worth doing given that it will be hard to see. The jury is still out.
There are 2 lights in the main bay. I positioned them so they would also send light into the tractor bay. There is 1 light in the tractor bay and 1 light on the exterior.
kebmo
February 2021
oustanding! love your lp’s. who’s are they?
CarlLaskey
February 2021
Tom Dick and Harry.
brownbr
February 2021
Funny Carl.
Kevin, some of these figures are 3D printed from Modelu and Andian. I really liked the positions of them but the surface detail was a bit lacking. There is 1 from MK35 and the blacksmith and 3 mechanics are from Royal Model.
AlexR
February 2021
Bryan, yeah- i noticed your lighting placement and number. Other lighting configurations i’ve seen of this had more lights. Yours seems to be just the right about of light power. Scaling light seems to be one of the hardest things. Especially with led’s.
This is something i’m currently “pondering” in mine… and the forge, did you put 1 led inside it? I briefly tested with 2 and 3… but, until you have a base ect, it’s hard to tell.
ALCO
February 2021
Very realistic and life-like. Great job!
sdrees
February 2021
The night shot are great Bryan. Lighting makes so much difference to a model. And I can’t ignore the fantastic pictures take out side, Of course the LP tell the story.
Mountaingoat
February 2021
I love night scenes and your placement and intensity are excellent…Rick
jmanugo
February 2021 edited February 2021
I love everything, night and day scenes.
How beautiful it is, congratulations on that diorama.
Greetings.
JM
KCSTrains
February 2021
Great night shots. I really like the second photo. Phil
brownbr
February 2021
Alex, there is 1 yellow and 1 orange LED in the forge on a flicker.
kebmo
May 2021
a bird’s nest with eggs in it. holy crap.
Pappy
May 2021
Bryan, fantastic work and detail!!
Keep us posted!!
brownbr
May 2021
A happy tree needs a new family (: