This thread was started in May, 2014
brownbr
May 2014 edited May 2014 in O Scale Builds
Sorry all for the extended absence from the forum. I had a lot going on and got in a modeling funk. That funk was snapped last week when this arrived.
We join this project already in progress…
I’m going to do my best to document this build. I feel I have learned a lot from my previous builds and from watching other’s builds here.
I started by distressing the boards. I used the brush in the pic below lightly to give the first set of grooves. It has very stiff bristles. I followed up with a lighter brush to enhance these grooves and give some smaller, finer ones. I then wiped down each board with steel wool to remove the fuzzies. (save the sawdust! but gather it up before using the steel wool)
For coloring I am using Rembrandt chalks. I use a blend of colors so I can change the darkness/lightness on sub assemblies but still have the same color. For this I used 408.3, 408.5 & 234.5. I scraped on the color, brushed in with alcohol then scraped on and washed in 704.8 & 100.5 to add the gray. This assembly with be the darkest. As I move up I will add more 408.5 and less 408.3 and by the time I get to the roof there will be no 408.3 and I will add in 408.7. Should make for a smooth and natural transition as this will progressively get lighter looking like bleached out wood. Once dry I brushed out the grooves with a brass brush, brushed on some IA and once dry gave a light sanding with 220 grit paper. There is a technique in the manual that I just ran across last night for the floor boards that I am going to try when we get to that point.
Assembly of the beams is very straight forward using the template and using 1" metal blocks helped me keep them lined up and right on the lines on the template. One note: the instructions say when laying the cross beams to stop at the beams marked with an x. The first set of beams covers the x’s so mark them before taping these beams down to the template. There is also 1 minor discrepency with the template and the photos in the manual with the length of 1 of the cross beams. I went with the template markings. Shouldn’t make a difference either way. Also noted is that the lever for the live rolls on the pilot was broken off multiple times and left off. Mine broke as well when assembling the machinery. I plan on leaving it off until the floor is installed then glueing it back on.
Joe did a nice job of documenting the inside of the box so I won’t do that again except to show what’s inside the casting boxes. I was going to count them but I don’t have that many fingers and toes. Let’s just say that the resin box is 4x6x2 and full to the top. And there are more templates that you could imagine.
With the sub floor nearing completion I test fitted some of the machinery to line up the blower and rope spool.
I’ve been brushing, coloring and cutting the dowels that will make up the legs for the sawmill. That is not a fun job. How can round wood be so much harder to work with than square wood? I also have the terrain contoured and the glue is drying on the layers. I went with 1 layer of plywood and 3 layers of 1/2" foam. I will be incorporating this into my layout so I will be able to secure it with brackets to the plywood.
The level of engineering and operations management to put this kit together is mind boggling. Kudos to Brett for bringing this to market.
I’ll take some better pics as we move along with the camera. These were just quickies with the ipad.
I promise to make subsequent posts shorter and cover less steps.
Comments
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan, this is wonderful. Thank you for returning and thank you for promising exquisite detail. I am new and am profiting from the detailing that is outlined in these projects. It is going to be especially interesting to begin seeing the sawmill build logs come to life. Please go heavy with your picture count.
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Seattle
Karl.A
May 2014
Great to see you with another build here Bryan, and this one is certainly going to be spectacular, due to the quality of your modeling combined with the magnitude of this kit.
Your colouring of the wood for the sub floor looks perfect. Bretts chalk and alcohol technique really is awesome and your assembly is flawless.
Having your saw and carriage in the pictures really starts bringing things into perspective.
That big box of resin castings looks pretty danged full, how about dumping it out on the bench and showing us some of what is in there ???
After following and admiring your previous builds on the forums this one is definitely something I will be following closely every step of the way.
Karl.A
admin
May 2014
Looking forward to your build Bryan!
morganhillrr
May 2014
Hey Bryan: Thanks for posting this build, I will be following along very closely. This is going to be good…Joe CCCModOn30
StuartW
May 2014
Bryan I’ve been looking forward to someone starting this huge undertaking as I have one on order with Brett as well and will be following very closely. Thanks for explaining your progression in shading as you work up the building it makes perfect sense and thanks for suppling the chalk numbers
LSNRwyAl
May 2014
Looking Good.
brownbr
May 2014
Thanks all for the comments and encouragement. If anyone wants to get theirs started as well then feel free to add it on here.
I’ve just about got the dowel legs done. Those are a royal pain to work with. The best way I found to tackle them was to use my handy dandy super stiff brush and rub like crazy. Then hit with steel wool. I have been gathering the extra chalk dust from my workbench as I progressed and stored this in a bowl. I mixed up a slurry of chalk and IA (black and brown) to paint the dowels. I used a razor saw and mitre box to cut to length. Then colored the tops and hit with a final coat of IA (black only). If I had it to do over again I would spring for the tabletop power saw.
Since I used 1/2" foam and the instructions called for 3/4" foam I decided to make my grade using 2 pieces of foam instead of 1. So the timbers had to be cut 1/4" longer on the lower side. No big deal with that. The long timbers were installed and then the short. Then the “cutting to size” fun began. It was so much fun that I cut away some of the grade to fit the timbers instead of cutting the timbers. I can fill this in with dirt later.
Attached here are a front and back shot of the entire dio. A close up of the grade. And a closer up of the timbers. I took several of these to check for alignment. There are a couple that will need to be tweeked. Notice also that not all of the timbers are sitting flush. I’ll find the timber(s) that are raising it up and mark the foam and cut out a divot to make it sit level.
I took the base out for a first coat of dirt colored paint and sprinkled on a light coat of dirt to dry in the paint.
From here I will finish the carriage drive and move on to the rollway.
Oh yes. There is a pic of the castings for Karl.
LSNRwyAl
May 2014
Remember this is a sawmill with heavy machinery going back and forth. Some of the “leg” dowels may over time become a little off the vertical !??
shay987
May 2014
looking great! I will be following this build.
morganhillrr
May 2014
Great progress Bryan, really looking impressive. Our group had our train meeting at my shop last night and as a proud Papa, I showed off the sawmill kit. The large box of strip wood and the 134 page construction manual was a big hit…Joe CCCModOn30
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan, this is awesome. I’m impressed with how much you get done and especially how good it looks. Thank you for including details on how you do things. I need that. I don’t seem to be ramping up to a level of production that is close to what you are doing. Keep it up!
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
May 2014
Thanks guys. Joe, I’m sure the kit was a big hit. It makes quite a first impression.
John, this has been the quick part. By quick I mean working with large timbers vs small boards and just glueing over a template. I’m thinking that when the work gets more detailed that it will probably slow down considerably.
Haven’t had a lot of time this week to get much progress but I really would like to get the rope, rollaway and headframe done in the next few days so it is ready for the base.
The land grant authority took a very dim view of my idea of an extension on the layout to house the sawmill so I have to go back to the original plan of installing it in the current space allowed. This will make for some extra work but it will fit fine as it’s location has been planned since day one. The extension would have created a space for a large machine shop though.
Jerry
May 2014
Bryan good start. Keep us updated. Even the little things you do. It will make it easier for those who follow.
Jerry
brownbr
May 2014 edited May 2014
I got the rollway under way. Note: for the rollway skids the instructions call for 3 pieces of .04x1/8. You will need 4 plus a couple of 6x6. And apparently I missed where it called for the spacing on the deck support brace (the 2x6 hanging off the deck but not covered) because the deck boards are supposed to end up flush with the pier support. Mine cover the pier support. Oh well. It looked right on the template.
When I finish the walkways that cover the overhanging 2x6 I will add a few more boards to the top of the rollway. I’m thinking this area would also be covered in bark so I’ll add that much later on.
The rollway trestle is easy to get off center. I had to make several adjustments and looking at the photo probably need to make one more.
Jerry
May 2014
Moving along and doing a fine job.
Jerry
Bill
May 2014
Bryan-
Gotta say, the coloring on your wood is fantastic. Combined with the weathering on the plates and NBWs in those most recent pics, this looks spot on to my eye.
Did you take those pictures outside? If not, what kind of lighting are you using?
Well done! Looking forward to more.
Bill
brownbr
May 2014
Thanks.
Bill, I also liked the way the plates turned out. They were painted rail brown with a floquil marker and had some brown/rust powder applied. Then I used some dark steel pigments from AK Interactive applied with a stomp to the edges and highlights. I love this product and plan to use it more during the construction.
The pics were taken indoors. I am using LED track lights. The temperature is “natural” or “outdoor” light.
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan, you are moving right along. Is the grey real or the result of your lighting? ? I really like it. You have nice texturing also.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
May 2014
John, that gray is very close to the real color. It’s probably somewhere in between the gray and brown that have appeared in the pics here.
Does this look like concrete? I started by spraying with camo tan then gave a very heavy dry brush of light gray. After dry I used chalks as described in the manual to give a mottled appearance and washed with IA. Lightly drybrushed with the same light gray followed by cream color. Add another coat of IA. The streaks are AK “Streaking Grime” and at the bottom is “slimy grime dark” . I’ll attach the pillow blocks and sawdust blower next.
LLSNRwyAl
May 2014
Very nice.
Karl.A
May 2014 edited May 2014
Looks exactly like concrete to me. Beautiful job. Superb. Hard to believe they are resin castings, so much character and depth in them, Brett really did a superb job on those masters and your colouring of them is dead on.
Karl. A
StuartW
May 2014
Bryan those concrete blocks look like old concrete blocks. Love the mossy finish around the bases and the stain marks look great.
shay987
May 2014
blocks look like nice. Well weathered and coloring on them.
Jerry
May 2014
Nice coloring on the concrete.
Jerry
brownbr
May 2014
thanks guys. I was very pleased with the way they turned out. I would recommend to anyone to try the streaking effect. Search youtube for “using AK Interactive streaking grime”. You can also use tube oils to get the same effect. It’s something the military modelers have down to great effect.
Well I made the cut to place this in my layout. It’s back to plan A since the preferred plan B cut nixed. I cut it down to 30" from 36" I removed the plywood and am glueing the foam to it. I will adjust the risers for the new depth.
I started planning for the lighting. I marked the spot where I want the wires coming up from the bottom. It will be in the workshed behind the sliding door. I cut off the corner of the plywood underneath this circle and will store the power board and wires there so they are out of the way. I will sink a tube in the circle area as a conduit. I will be able to hide the wires with junk and weeds underneath. To get them around the mill I will paint them brown and run them across the tops of the ceiling beams.
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan, I’ll say the same as everyone else - you have the concrete nailed. Excellent. That is quite a layout you are working on. Can you show us more?
Respectfully,
John
ironmountainlumber
May 2014
Hi Bryan,
WOW!! SUPERB!!!
Jim
brownbr
May 2014 edited May 2014
Thanks for checking in.
John, I started a layout thread but never really kept up with it.
So I did a test fit on the diorama into the layout and got it all leveled out. There will be very good viewing from 3 sides and the 4th will be at an angle but still in plain sight.
I got the initial layer of dirt down. It sure does look barren. It’s the same dirt mix I have used all over the layout. Sandy clay from under the topsoil in my backyard. I let it dry then sift through a metal colander. For the top layer I will sift again through a tea strainer. The conduit for the wire is visable here. It’s a simple plastic tube.
I got a shot from underneath as I am adding sawdust and debris before the floor goes in. I plan on using lots of sawdust.
I also had to add a retaining wall to help transition to the rest of the layout. It took up less space than a slope.
Brett says this is the halfway point in the manual. I think that is optimistic.
Karl.A
May 2014
looking fantastic Bryan the dirt underneath really ‘grounds’ the whole structure at this point. Pun definitely intended…
Having your concrete supports in place on a base is definitely showing off the preplanning for things to come.
The retaining wall with the sloped tops and nbw detail is a great transitional area to the rest of the layout, I really like how that looks.
I wish I had dirt that looked that good in my backyard, unfortunately I’m stuck with Mississippi clay…
Really enjoying following your great progress.
Karl.A
StuartW
May 2014
This is looking good Bryan the dirt really makes the mill look like part of the landscape.
I was wondering where those concrete supports would end up being used and now I know, everywhere you look there is more detail to discover.
Nice job on the retaining wall, I wasn’t sure how to work the slope into my plan but I think you may have solved that for me. Hope you don’t mind if I borrow that idea from you?
Keep up the great work, looking forward to your next update.
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan, I was coming across the high desert today, looking at miles of ocean beach type wind swirled sand dunes and wondering if I should stop and collect a bag full!
Your work is looking great. Please continue - the more the detail the better for us new folks.
I’m looking at your other thread.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
May 2014
Karl you are welcome to come to Virginia Beach and dig up some dirt in my backyard anytime.
Stuart, I think you should take any idea from here that you think will suit your plans.
John, get the sand. It’s better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Speaking of the concrete blocks, the blower block is out of place. I planted it too close to the edge of the floor so the belt is on the wrong side. I debated on re-planting but decided to just wrap the belt around the piping. You will never be able to see that it is not on a pulley on the back side. Also, since my grade was a little deeper than the pilot I ran the pipe under the floor beam instead of over it. I didn’t want to put the block on a riser. I also created some pipe supports from stock 8x8 & 2x8
May 2014
The floor planks are all ready now and I started laying them down. I tried for a very subtle color variation in them. This pic is somewhat bleached.
I’m trying a technique here where one of the boards has curled up at the butt, presumably coming un-nailed. I’m not sure if I will include nail holes over the floor as I think that could look overdone on such a large floor surface. If the raised board grows on me I will use this sparingly over the entire floor.
LSNRwyAl
May 2014 edited May 2014
My thoughts. If this is a hard working mill, the safety hazard would cause the mill foreman to have someone fix that ASAP. If old mill then heavily scar/wear/crack the top as if many feet and items had hit it over the years. Just my opinions. Love the colours of the boards.
morganhillrr
May 2014
Hi Bryan: Nice progress, coloring is great as mentioned. I don’t like the raised boards as Alan described the safety issue…Joe CCCModOn30
Ojaste
May 2014
Bryan, if you are going to curl the board ends, the colours and grain would have to show the wear that caused the nails to pop. However, the colours I think are already decided. You might consider putting “patched/replaced” boards that are newer to show there was wear but has been repaired. Split boards could add to wear and smooth pathways would show constant use.
Just some ideas to consider.
Marty
Karl.A
May 2014
Thanks or the invite Bryan, be careful what you ask for , 
Colours are all looking great and the debris under the mill and the detail under there has all come out very nicely indeed.
I kinda did the same thing on my mill engine governor belt. I forgot to put the wheel on during construction so just wrapped the governor belt around the shaft… no one will ever know… unless they are reading our posts !!
The curled boards are a great idea and look good but as mentioned in a working mill they would have been nailed down pretty quickly to avoid trips and falling head first into a 5’ high spinning blade. One place you could use the effect would be along the edge of a loading dock or one of the staggered angle edges. this would make sense as those areas would be more prone to the elements and the boards more likely to warp due to a loose nail. as mentioned, weather and split the board end a little more to show increased weathering leading to its failure.
Build is looking fantastic overall.
Karl.A
brownbr
May 2014
All good thoughts on the board. I really like the replaced board idea. I’ll find a place for one of those. I have a guy kneeling and hammering but I tried to adjust his arm and he looks like an amputee now. Maybe I need to find a tripping figure. How funny would that be?
I’m working on the rest of the floor and there is a small discrepancy in fig 3 on template 5 with the photos in the manual. I went with the photos and ran the planking all the way up to the rails for the carriage.
I’m to the point where I need to construct the dead roll extension. At some point I need to rework my carriage also. I have too much overhang on the hardware to clear the blades.
shay987
May 2014
Looking good ! I like your colouring on your boards.
Wes
May 2014
Beautiful work Bryan.
brownbr
May 2014
I got the rest of the floor boards installed and even put the live roll lever back in place. You can see it just above and to the right of the big hole in the floor.
The instructions and template 5 were outstanding. If you started this at one end and worked to the other, I can just about guarantee the boards will be crooked. Filling in the 12 areas on the template kept it all very straight. Though by about step 9 it started to get a bit complex.
I’m about to start on the walls and I’m thinking a lot about the lights so I’d be glad to hear any ideas on this. Here’s my plan for the time being.
I will be using ngineering LED’s. I will drill a hole in the ceiling supports to install them. That’s straight forward enough. I need to hide the wires. I don’t think I can find tubing small enough and workable enough for conduit so I plan on carving a groove in the top of the ceiling supports to serve as a channel to hide the wires. I will be wiring them in series vs parallel. This means I will have a set of wires for each light. They don’t take up much space but they can become a tangled mess. I chose this method because it means no resistors, I can wire on the bench and install instead of wiring on the model, and if one light goes out it won’t knock out 3 others in the group.
If I went with a conduit I would be looking for something no bigger than scale 4" diameter. I would want to cut a slit down the entire length for easy routing of the wires so I think stainless steel would be out. All of the brass I have seen has too thick walls. I haven’t seen anything in plastic smaller than about 7" diameter. If anyone knows of a product I haven’t though of please let me know.
I’ll have a while to think about this as I would like to install the walls, ceiling, line shaft and maintenance shed first.
Jerry
May 2014
Right there Bryan. great detail so far.
Jerry
StuartW
May 2014
Bryan the floor has come together well, I really like the overall appearance.
Looking forward to how you do the lighting.
Thanks for being a pioneer with this build.
Ojaste
May 2014 edited May 2014
Very Cool Bryan,
As for the LEDs, I would suggest using the current limiting device from Ningeering. It makes figuring out much easier. They also have steel tubing that will fit your size requirements. I would avoid the splitting and grooving is possible, conduits are more real.
marty
JohnM
May 2014
Bryan,
Excellent work and photographs. Please continue with the detail.
Look carefully at Ngineering’s tubing catalogue. I bought .018" which at my HO scales up to 1 1/2", a perfect real life size I think. They have tubing available in many wider sizes so any scaling is possible.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
May 2014
Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions. I like the ngineering tubing very much I just haven’t worked out in my head yet how to thread multiple wires through them and get wires to the right spot. I can use small sections and tape as a connector. I still think that cutting the pipe length wise would make access easier and the stainless tubes from ngineering make that extra difficult. Keep the ideas coming I still have a lot of time to decide.
I’m working on probably the hardest part of the kit for me. It seems that I am unable to make 2 sticks the same length and I have a love-hate relationship with the true sander making my squares not exactly square.
I assembled the 3 main walls using template 7 and test fitted them. The instructions call for assembly of the walls on the floor. Given my limits as mentioned above I decided to let gravity work with me instead of against me and build the ceiling beams on the work bench. Look away Brett, you don’t want to see the 2nd photo.
Note: if you use this assembly method your walls are on the reverse side of template 6 and your ceiling beams with the marks are backwards. I wonder how I figured that out? Just keep the walls oriented in the same direction and swap sides and don’t forget to turn the beams with the marks around.
Ojaste
May 2014
Bryan, you could skip the conduit idea and make it look like Nomex. Twist the wires together and use black epoxy and coat the wires with it or paint blackish and coat with CA. Experiment with the wire types and glues before doing it for real.
Marty
admin
May 2014
Looks great Bryan - I love this stage of construction.
brownbr
June 2014
I haven’t posted an update for a while but I have been busy. All of the belts are installed and the sawdust bin also. I love those beveled gears.
I’m in the process of putting on the siding to the maintenance shed.
It’s amazing what you can see in the photos that can’t been seen in person. Things like the bevel gears need to mesh better and a couple of sagging belts. None of the pulleys or gears have been epoxied to the shafts as I have been toying around with getting them right.
I’m looking forward to starting on some castings to take a break from the wood. This kit uses about a tree’s worth of wood.
admin
June 2014
looking fantastic… love the shot with the trestle in the background… sawdust bin looks great… and yeah, lots of wood!
Karl.A
June 2014
Looking fantastic Bryan. all those belts, braces and legs just look superb. any photo from any angle at this point makes it look so incredible, especially your low shots where everything is visible.
Sawdust bin looks great, more aged than the interior due to exposure but sound and functional. These small nuances make a great difference in the overall picture.
As Brett says the shot with the trestle in the background looks great and gives us an idea of what is to come. Looking forward to more.
Karl.A
morganhillrr
June 2014
Looks terrific Bryan…Joe CCCModOn30
JohnM
June 2014
Bryan, your work is inspiring. Please continue to show us what you are doing.
John
waynelp
June 2014
This is great, thanks for showing me the Mill work in progress. Just received my stripwood order in the mail for my Sawmill Hardware. I am assuming the wood framing I need to build for the Sawmill Hardware will fit and adapt into the new Sawmill build?
Looking at what you have done helps my in my planning on space for the Sawmill, a little demolition work is forthcoming. Thanks.
KKarns
June 2014
Bryan, really nice…I also love the background of your layout. What a great kit and your treatment here is doing it justice for sure…
StuartW
June 2014
Bryan I really like the angle you got for the first shot.
You’ve been very busy the last few days and it has made a huge difference to the look of the mill.
The sawdust bin looks great.
Looking forward to your next update.
brownbr
June 2014
Thanks guys. Once the maintenance shed and storage room walls are up I think I will take it outside and get a few shots in better light.
Wayne, there are just a few modifications necessary from the machinery build to the sawmill. You will end up re-doing the supports on the live rolls and losing the bottom row of boards on the edger. Don’t assemble the log deck, turner or haul. Other than that you are good to go. Use the same colors you plan to use on the sawmill.
brownbr
June 2014
I was toying around with the castings over the weekend and have been experimenting with a couple of techniques I picked up by lurking on an armor forum.
I started by priming the resin castings in the normal way and giving a base coat of Vallejo acrylics on the metal drums and chalk dust on the wood barrel. I scratched them up just a little. I did a wash on the big metal drum of “smoke” mixed with airbrush thinner. On the smaller one I used an enamel “Kursk Summer Earth” from AK Interactive.
After this dried I drybrushed the wood barrel with “barnwood” craft paint. The metal barrels got a few rust streaks and a dusting of light brown pigments which was fixed with alcohol. The wood barrel got a coat of IA.
I mixed some rust pigments with alcohol and colored the bands on the wood barrel and put the ground rust on the metal drum.
Ojaste
June 2014 edited June 2014
Bryan, don’t you love those castings? What did you use for the base coat on the wooden crates, etc?
Marty
brownbr
June 2014
Yes I do love the castings. Nothing else like them. I use Krylon camouflage paint for a primer. Tan for wood and dark brown for metal. I also have black on hand for other uses.
Ojaste
June 2014
Thanks Bryan.
I was afraid you were going to say it was camo Tan. That is the one colour I can get in Toronto? I’ve looked in the big box stores, art stores, the smaller hardware stores, etc and none of them carry it. They do carry the Khaki colour, but it looks too green for my taste; I prefer the Tan/Sand colour for wooden things.
I’m travelling to Cleveland in July and was wondering where you got yours?
Marty
MikeM
June 2014
Anyone for modeling knob and tube wiring using magnet wire?
KKarns
June 2014 edited June 2014
Bryan, Nicely done, I particularly like the rust effect on the middle barrel along the bottom and the streaking rust on the others. -Ken
brownbr
June 2014
Marty-I’ve gotten that paint from Walmart and Home Depot. Good luck in Cleveland.
Mike-I believe I will be doing a variation of that wiring. The more I think about it I’m thinking I will take the wire bundle from underneath the module all the way to the top of the rafters, run it down the peak of the roof and drop wires wherever I need them. Sort of like I did on my tractor repair shed. I’ll color the exposed wires like your link
Ken-thanks. I’m still trying different techniques to see which ones I like best, but for sure the streaking rust is a keeper.
Karl.A
June 2014
That is similar to my wiring Bryan, due to the open walls a main bus along the roof ridge seemed logical to me.
Barrels look good.
Karl.A
ironmountainlumber
June 2014
Bryan this is just an outstanding build!
Jim
JohnM
June 2014
Bryan, all looking great. Special thanks for the many close up detailed photos.
John
brownbr
June 2014
I was able to get this outside and get a couple of shots in natural light.
The belt system is in. I see a couple of spots to tighten up in these photos. Getting super close up sure helps. I also spotted a couple of glue spots and out of line NBW’s. I’ll get rid of the glue.
I also got the maintenance and storage shed done and got started on the castings.
Ojaste
June 2014
Bryan, it’s looking good. In the second frame, I like the way the post looks off plumb.
Marty
brownbr
June 2014
Thanks Marty. I saw that also. I’m thinking about putting a splintered gash in the beam like someone ran into it with a heavy cart.
davej
June 2014
wow Bryan looks fantastic, love the wood grain texture and colour. Castings are coming along a treat.
cheers
Dave
Karl.A
June 2014
Looking terrific Bryan, the machinery all looks superb and I like the splash of colour you gave to the edger and cutoff saw, really nice.
Your details are coming along nicely and I really noticed the finish on your flooring, it turned out beautifully, really nice work all around.
Karl.A
brownbr
June 2014
Thanks Dave and Karl. I had to color the edger after seeing yours Karl.
KKarns
June 2014
Bryan, great work here, everything looks super. Castings are stellar and love the shot of the inside walls with the ladder. Really nice build so far…Ken
James
June 2014
eechee wawaa. that is amazing - and big. What is my wife going to say when I start building this monster,
June 2014
went over some photos I missed earlier. Everything is perfect. And those little green bottles actually look like glass! thanks for posts on wiring too.
JohnM
June 2014
Bryan,
Simply gorgeous. What are you in to at the moment?
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
June 2014
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Yes James is it BIG. I’ve been working on it in sections on my work bench then transferring parts to the diorama which is supported by a temporary work station set up in the middle of the room.
Right now I’m working on the castings. Yesterday I put together the desk, cart and workbench with knee vise. I’ll try to get a pic later today if I can fit it into the very long honeydo list I have.
brownbr
July 2014
I finally got around to taking some photos and have added the boiler and engine. I routed the steam pipes a little bit differently on this. I’ve begun placing the details in place and got the next layer of dirt added which is sifted through a tea strainer.
KKarns
July 2014
Bryan, very well done..everything just looks great. Love the asbestos insulation wrapped pipe and the rust effect on the same pipe is outstanding, boiler detail looks great, castings are wonderful, so much to comment on…Ken
ironmountainlumber
July 2014
Hi Bryan,
This is just breathtaking. The pictures above look very natural. Everything fits together perfectly. The coloring of castings, walls, pipes is absolutely masterful.
I have a question on the first picture is a water cooler. How did you color the galvanized metal as it looks very realistic? What is the underlying coloring for the boiler?
I could keep on writing about the results you have achieved!!! Wow!!!
Jim
Ojaste
July 2014
I give up! How can anybody do better that?
Marty
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks everyone. One of the things I am loving about this kit is that as the details are placed you can really appreciate the depth of the model. It is interesting to see how one area leads to another.
Ken, the asbestos insulation is a tissue wrapped around the pipe and secured with small bits of tape painted black. Then I used dirty alcohol with chalk to color.
Jim, the water cooler is a metal casting. I really didn’t know what color it should be so I left it as you see it. The best product I have found to give this color on non-metalic items is “Dark Steel” pigments by AK Interactive. The more you rub this powder the more it looks like steel. It’s an amazing product. The boiler started with a coat of flat black primer, was drybrushed then powders were added. I almost redid the rust using oils to get a nice streaking effect but chose this more subdued approach.
Marty don’t give up. I feel like my details are better than the first time I did some but not as good as I want to make them. I really studied the techniques by Kevin O’Neill on individual details. And it’s hard to match the placement and scene composition by Brett and Karl. Their approach to composition is that by adding layers of details in a natural manner makes the scene look realistic, even if you don’t have the skills (which I don’t) for creating the ultra-realism scenes ala Chuck Doan or Anders Malmberg.
Coors2u
July 2014
Fantastic work Bryan. I love the pipes.
ironmountainlumber
July 2014
Thanks for the heads up on the dark steel pigment. Will order and give it a try.
Jim
James
July 2014
Bryan - I do think you have entered the Chuckster zone - it doesn’t get much better.
Detailing is one thing but natural feeling placement is another - something Chuck excels at and something Brett always preaches. Love the desk in this regard in particular - just feels “real”
Sanding a pile of soft pencil lead (graphite) also works re: rubbing in to get a steel look I’ve found
morganhillrr
July 2014 edited July 2014
Hi Bryan: the photos are just fun to look at, incredible job. You and Karl are setting a mighty high bar…Joe CCCModOn30
Karl.A
July 2014 edited July 2014
The details are all looking fantastic Bryan, their painting and weathering is terrific. As you mention earlier adding the details really starts to show the depth of this model/kit.
I mentioned earlier in a thread that most of these details were mastered new specifically for this kit. Not only did Brett master them specifically for the kit they were also mastered for specific areas and specific placement. This is why the areas look so natural and flow so well.
Brett is a master at composition and placement design, as Bryan noted above, one area leads seamlessly to another. Brett has achieved this by logical and natural placement of items, hours of research and creation of new masters when needed, and this takes time.
However for the modeler it is as simple as following the photos in the manual as Bryan and myself are showing, to get this exceptionally high level of realism and detail.
The desk area is a perfect example of this, many hours were spent during kit development shuffling the larger items around , ie desk, cabinet, locker and shelf in order to obtain the perfect composition. Once done the smaller items such as books, bottles, clipboard, hat…etc were added to bring the detail level to the pinnacle, again these items are very strategically placed for optimum impact, viewability and realism.
As Bretts kits are so well, designed, developed, engineered and produced almost any modeler can achieve these high level results , even a beginner building their first SierraWest kit.
James, Brett does much more than preach these ideas, he puts them in the kits. Everything is in the box, the details, the instructions on how to achieve the look, and plenty of pictures to show placement. This is why Bryan and I have copied the desk directly from the manual.
Personally I rarely deviate from Bretts detail placement as I know it has been thoroughly designed and is generally the optimum arrangement possible. Also I don’t generally enjoy designing scenes so it is easy to just follow Brett.
A little insight into why SierraWest kits are the best available and why they look so good with results that can be repeated by almost anybody.
Karl.A
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks everybody, and I must agree with what Karl said. It’s hard to go wrong by placing the details the way they are in the instruction manuals. Let’s face it, we all started buying these kits because of the way they look and they way we can make them look and that all starts with the pilot. I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel so I follow the guideline for the most part.
With this being said, one of the details I loved most about this kit was the desk and I’ve been tinkering around with it. Specifically the books. I liked the way they looked in the little book nook on the desk but they were’t quite right. So I took a piece of scrap wood and painted the edges white. I cut off a strip of cardstock and colored with a sharpie to make a cover and presto. I plan on re-doing all of the books this way and filling a shelf on the wall over the desk as well.
Ashes in the astray are Bragdon powders secured with mineral spirits. The newspapers are from another SW kit, I think it was Blue Sky
July 2014
So a clean desk is the sign of a sick mind, right?
James
July 2014
Thanks for the insights Karl and Bryan - yes, the “hard work” has been done before one even opens the box, leaving the builder to just do the fun stuff. There’s a reason most builds, including competition winners, seem to follow SW kits as designed so closely…
JohnM
July 2014
Bryan, this is outstanding. I can’t thank you enough for showing us so much detail. You can just imagine how helpful it is to some one like me who has no prior experience - thank you!
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks guys. I have most of the castings placed now and will have some updated pics soon. I started cutting the lumber for the wood stacks last night and estimate that there is about a scale 1/2 mile of lumber feet in this particular detail.
July 2014
We hear about details on details. What about details inside of details? I’m trying to get this to line up to look right and it’s not quite there yet. The joining of the 2 materials won’t be visible inside the machine.
James
July 2014
HI Bryan- you mean there is a cover over that section right? Brilliant idea!
brownbr
July 2014
James, there is no cover for this. It’s just the angle that it will be able to be viewed once the roof is on will prevent a top down look like the 1st photo. I only need to get the cut boards lined up straight and butted up against the uncut slab and it should look just fine. I need to find some pieces for the edges that were cut off as well.
waynelp
July 2014 edited July 2014
How about just one piece of wood with slits cut on one end to match the saw blades. Like a long tined fork. The whole uncut part sticking out and the cut boards are going thru the cutter. That is what I am doing with mine. lookin’ awsome.
brownbr
July 2014
I agree Wayne that that would be the ideal way to do this, but I had quite a time just getting these little slabs cut. I don’t think I could cut one that way, because I tried. This will work if I line it up right. You will never be able to see inside the machine unless you have a removable roof which I don’t plan on.
On another note, this notice appeared in the local paper. As you can see there were many applicants. Mr Sawtooth is seen here giving the new hires instructions which probably include things like: fill in the gaps in your arms, don’t come back looking like you just came out of a coal mine, and get that toothpick our of your a…
ironmountainlumber
July 2014 edited July 2014
Bryan,
Awesome idea in the picture above with the cut boards. Did you use a scroll saw ? If not you may be able to keep the board together using either and electric or hand scroll saw. Your build continues to be amazing in every way. Details on details and details in details. Very cool.
It looks like the ad worked. The crew looks like they will be hard workers for St Mary’s Lumber company although I would be worried about that guy taking it easy on the right. He may need a little persuasion. You would think the toothpick would have been enough.
Jim
JohnM
July 2014
Bryan, it looks like you have a weeks work painting up that motley crew. I’d really like to see some progress steps as you do so if it isn’t too much work to document.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
July 2014 edited July 2014
Jim, I used the Dremel scroll saw which was tough to keep a straight cut. I was only able to cut about an 8" thick slab and sanded it down to about 4". When I tried cutting the tines of the fork I just wasn’t able to keep straight lines with this or a razor saw.
And yes you would think that a toothpick placed there would be enough to motivate anyone, but I guess not.
John, I will post some progress photos of the figures and yes I was figuring on about a week to complete. However, there is no wife or kids at the house for the next 48 hours and I have nothing better to do so…
While I have been working on the figures I’ve also been dirtying up the sawmill with sawdust. I started by mixing some of the sawdust I have accumulated through the build and mixing with Desert Sand pigment. I put it in logical places and brushed foot paths then set with AK Sand and Gravel Fixer. I’ll start using the same pigment to dust up the tops of cabinets, etc.
I hope it’s OK to post a link to another forum here. These are the set of steps I will be following for painting the figures:
I will start by giving 2 coats of diluted paint to all of the components–skin, shirts, pants, etc. It’s easier to touch up solid colors. Then I will work on shadows and highlights. Below is a military figure I painted using these instructions.
I will use the 2 figures below to document progress. They are both from Phoenix. The one on the left was part of a 2 man saw team. His arms were set holding a board that he will be putting on top of the wood stacks. The guy on the right is a farmer that was holding a pitchfork. I cut that off and drilled a hole in his fist to fit a log roller which was placed in his hands while the epoxy cured.
KKarns
July 2014
Bryan, Love the last overhead shot of the saw mill floor, the spread out saw dust looks really, really good! Some outstanding modeling here…if you’re going to have LPs the clothing being subtile and somewhat uniform is the way to pull it off. What’s the deal with the Russian tank crew guarding your saw mill build site? Gives a new meaning to
NO TRESPASSING!
admin
July 2014
Looks great… I think adding sawdust to the mill floor is so very hard and you nailed it Bryan.
Thanks for the figure painting link as well. The military guys got nothing on us when it comes to structures and scenery however they are miles ahead when it comes to figure painting. There is a French guy (can’t think of his name right now) who has several excellent books out on figures…
Ojaste
July 2014
Bryan, ditto…ditto…ditto… Dato!
brownbr
July 2014
Yes no trespassing and no strikes or else.
The military guys sure do have an advantage on the figures with the wide selection in various materials. It’s too bad we don’t have a better selection of high quality figures, preferably in plastic or resin.
At this point the figures are painted solid colors. I went skin, shirts, pants, jackets, details. By painting just the solid colors at this point it is easy to touch up. Next will come shadows and highlights.
I took the model outside this morning and got a couple of shots just to document progress. A couple of areas I don’t think seen before are the end of the mill where the rejects are tossed. Note the water line that goes to the boiler and will attach to a tank on the hill above the retaining wall. The other end of the mill by the maintenance shed where I have been piling up junk. This will hide the wires that will come out of the ground here. I am considering changing this pile to a stack of pallets. The log roll has bark debris accumulating. And the loading dock is starting to come along as well.
Ojaste
July 2014Bryan, this is totally outstanding work! Period! Bar none! I feel I’m right there in the mill and I can smell the sawdust. As my wife just said. “..it’s crazy good.”
Marty
brownbr
July 2014
Marty, I like your wife.
Like I said…48 hours and nothing better to do. So the first pic is our model subjects posing for the camera after their shadows and highlights. I really like how the face turned out on the one. Too bad most of the faces were cast very poorly.
Last pic shows them in their future occupations- a wood stacker and a log turner. With a little sawdust powder added for good measure.
Remember, these guys started out as part of a 2 man saw team and a farmer. I’ve learned not to rule out figures just because they are intended for a purpose I don’t need.
Coors2u
July 2014
Bryan, the layers of detail you have put in are incredible. So many to see. Everything really blends together so well. Top shelf work!!
James
July 2014
Amazing work- love the debris at the log roll and the charcoal in front of the boiler - little things like that bring a scene to life.
The figures look great too! Figures can be the weak link in any rail dio. As Brett notes, this hobby blows others away for scene setting and landscaping and structures, but figures require a different set if skills which have to be practiced (apparently- I haven’t tried yet). Many fantasy gaming sites have good technique blogs but often the intent is to over emphasize things like eyes and clothing.
James
July 2014
Aspen models has some good info on painting for those who haven’t tried yet like me. I have the blacksmith figure in o scale which is nicer than I thought it would be when it came. I’m saving it for the SW Tractor repair shop. ScaleHumans makes fantastic figures too but RK won’t ship out of the US anymore 
But enough of this - back to the sawmill !!!
Karl.A
July 2014
Everything is looking fantastic Bryan. The details are all superbly finished and the sawdust on the floor looks fantastic and natural. The placement is all logical and it really adds to the realism of the model, as Brett stated, not something that is easy to pull off but you have done it masterfully.
Another great area is the log rollway, all the debris looks superb and is exactly how many rollways looked in the photos I saw.
Excellent modeling all around, looking forward to more.
Karl.A
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks guys.
James, that blacksmith from Aspen has a lot of detail and a good figure to start with.
Karl, I just couldn’t imagine a rollway without a ton of bark debris on it.
I promise this is the last update on the figures. Most have found their worksites. You can see Mr Sawtooth giving some positive encouragement to one of the mechanics. The companion to the 2 man saw team is getting ready to engage the dual husk. The bean counter is busy at his desk. I used figures to accentuate the depth of the model by placing some in the distant rooms.
I’ve run into a minor snag. I started putting together the trusses. I want them built and temporarily installed while I finalize the light placement. The snag came in when the truss did not sit flush on the roof beam. It seems that my walls are about 1/16" too wide. Goes to show the tight clearances on this model. I ended up taking about 1/16" off of parts “sweb” to make the truss sit square on the timber. Shouldn’t be a problem but will probably have to carry this fix to the large trusses as well.
It’s opinion time. I’m also thinking about the tin roofs. I’ve seen lots of great pics online of painted roofs. Mostly light gray/silver, red and green. I’m debating painting one or more of the roofs. Most likely gray or green, have it faded with some rust streaks. Thoughts?
admin
July 2014 edited July 2014
The figures look outstanding, really add a wonderful dimension to the dio. I love the dude in the chair…
Glad you improvised on the truss pieces. Sounds like you will be just fine.
Karl and I went round and round on corrugated vs. wood. Obviously settled on wood as there was so much corrugated I felt that color would overpower the structure. The wood roof just blends in.
silveradonorthern
July 2014
Excellent work Bryan. Everything ties in very naturally. I’m normally not much of a figure person but you’ve pulled it off wonderfully. I personally like the idea of a faded green roof with some rust streaks.
Michael
Ojaste
July 2014
Bryan, my jaw dropped when I saw the figure placements. It looks like they were custom made fir those placements. I lime the first image with the guy holding his head without the hat. I wish I had the talent to get this detail into a HO diorama. I can’t wait until I see this diorama in person. As fir the roof, how about doing wood with corrugated patched section(s).
Marty
Coors2u
July 2014
The figures really tie everything together. Can’t wait to see more.
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks Brett. The large trusses turned out to be just the right size.
There’s one vote for green roof, thanks Michael. The roof I’m thinking about is only the tin roof covering the boiler and maintenance sheds, not the main roof-that will stay wood.
Marty, the figures were actually custom made for those positions. By that I mean about 1/2 of them had separate arms/heads. They were designed for another “job” by the manufacturer. I assembled them to the shape I needed which meant some filing and filling joints if the parts didn’t line up right. I’d like to get better with painting figures myself since I feel like they add life to my dioramas. I think you could do it in HO better than the paintjob on pre-painted figures with a little practice.
Thanks Dustin
Karl.A
July 2014
Terrific work on the figures Bryan, placement and poses are really well done. They add so much to your scenes in the mill.
Karl.A
JohnM
July 2014
Bryan, you are a Wizard - thank you for continuing to show us so much detail. Your build is an instructional document . . . .
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks Karl and John. Very kind words indeed.
I’ve temporarily placed the trusses with the exception of the rear wing wall extension and the little pieces of blue tape are the approximate location of the lights. There are 16 because that’s how many I can put on 1 of the power boards from ngineering without needing resistors and other goodies. 16 sounded like a lot until I put the pieces of tape on, now it looks kind of sparse in their placement.
Karl.A
July 2014
The trusses and rafters took the whole build to a new perspective… fantastic!!
Karl.A
KKarns
July 2014
Bryan, wonderful work here. Your lights are like many of the detailing concepts…not overdone. Too many lights would be distracting to me. Some scattered glowing lights in strategic places will look wonderful and I think you got it just right.
Ken
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks Karl.
Yes Ken, I think you are right. Don’t want to get blinded by the light.
I did put together a conduit today using Plastruct U channel. Got a cover to put on top after it’s wired. I primed it a medium gray (not seen here) and will blend it into the mill with powders. I wanted a very basic paint job since there will parts added later to finish it up. I decided to go this route instead of hiding the wires in the rafters. I also got a great idea from Brett about a light switch to be installed later. Should be fun.
James
July 2014
Oh man that’s all so sweet. If there’s no agreement on the roofing you could always do one section in wood and one in metal-'say the lower shed roof. That was, of course, quite common practice. If you do corrugated I recommend Jax Aluminum Blackener as a great alternative to etchant. It’s water based and is just a soaking solution like the pewter blackener.
James
July 2014
The conduits are a great idea - I was thinking of tubing but why go to that kind of hassle …
MuddyCreekRR
July 2014
Bryan…overly inspired by all of your work…I am still waiting on my kit…I cannot wait to get started…thank you for all of the outstanding photos and ideas…
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks James for reminding me that I bought a bottle of the aluminum blackener with my last order of pewter black. I haven’t tried it yet. If you have I would like to see your results. I was planning on painting a gray primer as the base for the corrugated. I’m not a big fan of the etchant. It gets great results but I’m not sure it’s worth it for me. There is some metal on my rigging shed that I did not rinse enough evidently and is starting to get a white coat of oxidation on it.
The idea of trying to thread multiple wires down a small tube did not excite me from the beginning. I don’t think it can be done. That’s why I’ve been struggling with alternatives from the start. This seems like a reasonable solution. It looks like it should be there but is not obtrusive. The channel itself is a scale 4x6 and with the cap it’s 5x6.
MuddyCreek, looking forward to another build.
brownbr
July 2014
Here’s some roof panel experiments. First pic show some scrap pieces. Top made using etchant, rinsed then scrubbed with a toothbrush. Middle same-no scrubbing. Bottom is Jax aluminum blackener. Right side scrubbed. Not scrubbing leaves it too black. Scrubbing gives a nice color but has a shine to it. I feel like I can get the color of the scrubbed, etched panels using gray primer, which is what I did on these roof panels.
The painting idea has been scrapped. I can’t get the oxidized look I was going for, but the light colored panel has potential as a wall or fence some day.
Jerry
July 2014
Bryan your doing an outstanding job on the Mill. Nice coloring on that metal roof.
Jerry
James
July 2014
Yeah - the aluminum blackener does have some drawbacks as you note - I didn’t find it getting as black as your sample, but the oxidation does kind of rub off like allot of brass blackeners do.
Wes
July 2014
Bryan ive just been over the last couple of pages twice and the details are just fantastic. There is so much to see and the figures really make the whole thing come to life. You are doing this kit real justice. Well done.
JohnM
July 2014
Bryan,
Wow, looking great! And I love your idea for a wiring trough. An earlier post in another thread commented on not using metal tubing to carry wire because he needed to have one or more “break outs”. Your trough is the solution I’ll use for just that purpose - and of course I never would have thought of it myself . . . In leadership resource management training a well used word is “synergy” - a group of people working on a problem will eventually find a solution that is better than what the smartest person would have found.
Respectfully,
John
silveradonorthern
July 2014
Looking good Bryan. It just gets better and better. I think your lighting will work out great. Just my opinion but ‘over’ lighting a scene can kill the effect quickly. I’m in the camp of less is more. Back in the days when mills such as yours’ were in operation electric lighting was less than optimal.
Michael
silveradonorthern
July 2014
Bryan I somehow missed the colored roofing panels. I’m sure you have heard about/seen these products.
Stoney creek designs
I’m not sure if this will help in your current project.
Michael
brownbr
July 2014
Thanks guys.
James, I hit it with steel wool first so that may be the reason for it being darker.
John, you are right and I appreciate all of the ideas that were presented as part of my lighting solution. they were all very helpful…lets just hope it works out OK.
Michael, I have a pack of those panels that I have yet to try. I’m not going to rule them out without trying but would lean towards metal if for no other reason than the thickness of the materials. And yes, dark and gloomy would probably describe most work sites of this era.
I have the light fixtures nearly all assembled and hope to get them primed tonight. I went ahead and epoxied the track to the cross beams and will insert the lights from underneath. It won’t be easy but I felt that this approach would make it easier to manage the tangle of wires that will accumulate.
brownbr
July 2014
Well I just primed the light fixtures and they look like crap. I used Grandt Line reflectors and .025 tubing from ngineering. The tube was a little small for the opening on the reflector and I filled the gap with epoxy. Everything looked fine until it was painted then the epoxy filler looked like a big glob that didn’t belong. Back to the beginning on this part. I’m going to use the ngineering reflectors since I have them on hand. If I don’t like those I will get a larger tube. I really did like the smaller Grandt line reflectors.
James
August 2014
I ran into the same thing with my woodcutters build (still patiently waiting to be finished). I found several packs of old Campbell brass hoods which I swear are really o scale sized- I blackened them and wasn’t going to paint them but had the same issue of tube size which I have yet to deal with.
brownbr
August 2014
I would think for the woodcutter shack, if the lights are outside you would want a perfect match, if inside you could fudge it a little.
Here’s the solution I came up with using the ngineering tubing and lampshades.
I started by punching a small hole from the inside of the lampshade with a pick then drilled through with a .026 drillbit. I filed the sharp edges and drilled again. I used the pick to flare out one end of the tubing that I cut to about 1/2". I picked up some nuts/washers from VectorCut and drilled and installed a washer on the tubing which stopped at the flare. I inserted into the lampshade, added just a drop of epoxy to the washer and secured. I added a hexnut to the top of the tube as a stop for the conduit and secured with CA glue. Painted it up and that’s what you see here. I’ll weather with powders to give a dust accumulation from being in the sawmill.
Try not to get any glue/epoxy/paint on the tube end. But if you do a #78 drill fits inside to tube to clear it out.
Next up I’ll need to fire up the soldering iron.
Ojaste
August 2014
Bryan, these shades are well thought out and executed with the skill of an excellent craftsman. I bet they will look great.
Marty
MuddyCreekRR
August 2014
I’ve used a few different methods to “hang” lighting…and I’ve seen in a lot of older structures…real structures…they didn’t always go with a “permanant looking” instalation. The lighting was hung just using the electric wires…mainly smaller fixtures…so if you are using the newer LED “bulbs”…this won’t be as easy as the old “grain of wheat” bulbs that had the black wiring attached. You would need to solder on those leads yourself. The wire could then be run along beams as it might in a prototypical situation. I am planning on lighting in my builds on the table now to use smaller fixtures that could worh with this method. These wires can find there way into conduits that meet at scale size junction boxes on columns…was thinking of drilling out the columns and run the wires out of the backs of these junction boxes…down the columns (posts)…and either below the structure…or even run them down thru the foam to a buss bar underneath…I have no photos yet…and it does seem like alot of work…just another thought on a solution…will post pics once I get to that point…I am still waiting for my kit to arrive…keep up the good work…
MuddyCreekRR
August 2014
Forgot to add…your stuff looks outstanding…
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Marty, I’ve sure thought about it enough for about 3 months now.
Muddy, I was stuck on your idea of drilling posts for a long time, then loose hanging wires. I went with this because I wanted something unobtrusive and somewhat plausible with minimal chance of me messing it up or just looking bad.
So if you have lights you need a light switch right? I put one up front and 1 in the back. I used scrap wood for the box, .032 wire for the conduit and thin brass strip for the handles. Vectorcut nuts to attach the conduit.
MuddyCreekRR
August 2014
Bryan…love those switches and the conduit…I think I might end up with a bit of both ways of doing it…once I get that far…I’ll be sure to put up pictures…keep up the good work on your build…I am sure I will reference your pics during my build…having this forum is a blessing…Thanks Brett!
Art
KKarns
August 2014
Bryan, really nice shades and the switch is a great touch…splendid job.
Ojaste
August 2014
Byran, i will steal the light switch idea for use in the future.
Love the shelf details. Are those shelf brackets part of the kit?
Marty
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Art and Ken.
Marty, the brackets do come in the kit. The bottom shelf is just scrap wood cut in a triangle. The top bracket comes as a white metal casting that looks like a splice plate. You bend it and the connector is just a piece of brass rod. Neat little detail.
James
August 2014
great details- the hoods and the switch. Lighting and related details can cause so much angst- these look spot on!
Karl.A
August 2014
Everything is looking great Brian. I’m glad to see the light switch idea worked out for you.
Karl.A
admin
August 2014
Wonderful Bryan! The light switch is perfect, glad Karl reminded me about it!!!
brownbr
August 2014
James, angst is a good word. I’m looking forward to having this part done so I can move on. I’ll be glad I added lights but I hate adding lights.
Karl and Brett, thanks for the idea.
JohnM
August 2014 edited August 2014
I’m really pleased you are doing the switches. It never would have occurred to me.
Your lamp assemblies are excellent.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks John. I wish I had come up with the idea. It was suggested by Brett. But I do have a couple extras that I’m working through my head. Those will probably get started after the roof is on.
I started adding lights. The first time I used these lights I couldn’t help but wonder how to work with them. With trial and error this is what I have come up with…still a work in progress.
I started by putting a piece of tape above the spot where I thought lights should go. The wires were cut to length giving an extra foot or so. I tied a knot in one end. This turns out to be important when working with more than a couple of lights because when they are threaded to underneath the base the pairs of wire are attached so there is no confusion.
Then thread the untied end of the wire through the lamp from the top and solder the LED in place. TEST IT. Glue in the lamp. TEST IT AGAIN. Then drill a hole in the conduit and thread the wire from underneath. Once the fixture is near the hole put a drop of glue on the nut assembly added and pull the rod through the hole to seat the light. Add a drop of glue on the inside of the conduit. TEST IT AGAIN. Oh, by the way, I’ve added a room full of lights before and had one not work (couldn’t tell right?). It’s real hard to get back in there once they are installed.
From there I pull the wire to the end of the conduit and wrap the leftover to secure it and keep a tangled mess from developing. As I move down the conduit other lights are added. I put some glue on some scrap wood and used it to secure the wire as I moved down the conduit.
Once this exercise is done I will wire all of the lights up to the power pad and keep my fingers crossed. I’ll add the top to the conduit and stack up some wood inside the maintenance shed to hide any wires that may be visible since this is where I put the hole to get under the base.
James
August 2014
i kept looking at the wiring then noticed - OMG, all the other details! I gotta make the point again. I have an issue with figures in some dioramas when they aren’t done right but these look all so natural. There are so many things in this dio- from bearings to hoists- all amazing. Kind of hard to fathom. Cant wait to see the lights though. Man that is going to look good. But what a pain!
Ojaste
August 2014
Byran, congratulations! you have just earned your OCD black belt!
Welcome to the club.
Marty
brownbr
August 2014
James, I agree. Figures can make or break a scene. It drives me nuts to see figures that look out of place. I started with about 30 job applicants. As I built I would find spots for some of the workers and narrowed it down to 17.
Marty, I will be on the lookout for my belt. Please include the secret handshake instructions.
7 down 9 to go.
Jerry
August 2014
Bryan yes those figures do make a difference.
Great job your doing with the Mill.
Jerry
JohnM
August 2014
Bryan,
That is a GREAT description. Thank you! I’m with you entirely on test, test & retest! So far I haven’t screwed up anything after installing it but I don’t trust those tiny connections!
I slightly modified Ngineering’s practice of inserting the .012 stainless wire inside the tubing when making U shaped bends. I eventually found I could just put the wires in while the tube was straight and then used the bending jig. The wires seemed to provide enough interior volume to keep the tubing from collapsing in my instances.
Please continue to post your experiences and suggestions.
John
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Jerry and John. I did not need to do any bending of the tubing for this one but next time I need to I will try your technique. I never bought their bending jig. I used 2 1/4" bolts held together with vise grips and rolled it around the threads when I made some goose necks.
brownbr
August 2014
I’ve nearing the end of the wiring ordeal. All of the lights have been installed and all of the wires have been fed through the bottom of the dio.
The overhead shot shows a clean, wire-free structure. All of the wires funnel down the conduit and into a straw painted brown in the maintenance room. The underneath shot is where they all pop out. Last shot here shows how the conduit will look once the top is installed. This piece is not glued on. I will install the cap once all of the wires are soldered to the power panel.
To thread the wires I divided into 2 bundles and twisted a little. I taped them to a piece of brass wire and pushed each bundle down through the straw.
JohnM
August 2014
Bryan, you have given me great ideas for the wiring - thanks!
John
KKarns
August 2014
Bryan, lighting is going to be awesome I can tell. Can’t wait to see a night shot of this thing…very, very impressive. Ken
brownbr
August 2014
John, glad to help. I get a bunch of ideas from the modelers here…that’s what this forum is for.
Ken, here you go…
I started by cutting some scrap wood to use as a riser to keep the board away from the mount I constructed out of very thin plywood. After glueing I epoxied it to the bottom of the layout then wired the LED’s so the wire was on the side facing the bottom of the diorama for protection. I did my best to keep the tangles to a minimum. My next project will be to clean the mess underneath a little to keep the wires from catching on stuff. One set of red/white wires is for power and the other is to attach another one of these monsters to the same power source.
The pics with the lights on are in a dark room with an ipad so…
Ojaste
August 2014
Bryan, It looks brilliant!
marty
Coors2u
August 2014
Lighting looks fantastic.
MuddyCreekRR
August 2014
Bryan…looks great…and the “warmth” of the lights looks just right too…not too bright. Keep up the outstanding work…
Art
James
August 2014
It’s ALIVE !!
shay987
August 2014
All I can say is “WOW”
morganhillrr
August 2014
Hey Bryan: The lighting looks terrific, love the night shots. Thanks for taking the time to show us your progress. I also plan to light my sawmill and will definitely be revisiting your work…Joe CCCModOn30
KKarns
August 2014
Well done!..
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks everyone. At some point I hope to get better photos of the lights. For now I’m just glad this portion of the build is done so I can get back to the parts I actually like doing.
James
August 2014
must be a real rush turning on the switch and seeing the lights all go on! quite stunning…
BTW, a bit OT but I was reading this thread on the weekend on my phone waiting for a coffee at our local market (in an old 1910 marine factory) when I looked up a noticed that not only are the trusses the same as the Sturgeon mill but, what is hard to see in the photo below, is that much of the wiring runs in metal ‘C’ channels between the trusses. So your idea has a prototype! (albeit in this case the wiring was done in the 1970s)
JohnM
August 2014
Bryan, thats what I needed to see - thank you.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks James, I like that photo.
FYI incase I didn’t mention this before. If you are going to run your wires over the headboards like I did, build the trusses first and temporarily attach them. Run your conduit so it doesn’t interfere with the placement of the trusses.
admin
August 2014
Wow - phenomenal job Bryan. Wiring and such makes my head ache just thinking about it but I must say well worth the headaches!!!
Karl.A
August 2014
Amazing results Bryan, the colour and level of the lighting is just perfect. Well done indeed.
Karl.A
Jerry
August 2014
Bryan beautiful. Love those night shots.
Jerry
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks guys. Brett, my head JUST quit hurting.
Here’s a quick update. The rafters are installed along with the rails. I’ve started rusting up the corrugated roofing. I started by spraying with light gray auto primer-a little darker on the underside-followed by Dulcote. From there I added light, med, then dark rust powders. The panel on the left was set with a coat of IA, middle mineral spirits and left mineral spirits followed by a thin black oil wash. All 3 had the powders applied the same so I could see the different results from setting. I think all will have their place on the roof. I’m not going for a uniform look on the panels but a random rusted roof where you see some panels completely rusted while others are in the early stages.
Ojaste
August 2014
Bryan, you can now cut your own strip wood the sawmill it looks so realistic. Are you going to make the roof removable?
Marty
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Marty. How cool would a working model of this be?
I MAY make the roof removable. With the walls open like it is it may not be necessary. Once I construct the roof panels I will see how much they weigh and determine from there to make it removable. I don’t want to damage the roof just to get a better look.
By the way, a quick calculation says there is a scale 15,840 board feet of lumber in the roof. It’s going to weigh quite a bit.
JohnM
August 2014
Bryan, this is beautiful. Thank you for showing it. I would never imagine the three panels have the same chalk treatment. The one on the left is easily my favorite.
The sawmill is getting to be so big it must be difficult to decide what to photograph - perhaps just “today’s” project.
John
brownbr
August 2014
You are right John, I found it interesting as well the different textures I got with different setting techniques. Just for clarification for setting I would dip a brush in the medium of choice and touch to the edge of the panel and let it fill in.
I ended up getting better results on the ribbed than the corrugated…the corrugated looks like a jumbled mess right now. I may need to rework a bunch of the panels. We’ll see once they are all dry.
Here’s the end of the project of the day. One last step I did on these panels was to take my alcohol that has dissolved chalk from staining wood and shook it up and coated the panels with this mixture for some dust and grime.
admin
August 2014
I think that looks fantastic!
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Brett
Quote
James
August 2014
These look perfect- great idea. These are probably the best metal roofing pieces I’ve seen - very realistic. Does the kit come with the ribbed or corrugated roofing (I have it but it would mean getting of the couch and taking a look)?
admin
August 2014
the corrugated and ribbed seam roofing is included… as with all of my kits everything except track and scenery is included
James
August 2014
Absolutely! I guess what I meant to ask was whether Bryan you substituted ribbed roofing versus corrugated because the technique didn’t work on the corrugated but I see now (having got off the couch) that the roofing in this area is the ribbed siding as per the kit.
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks James. That is high praise indeed. I think the corrugated didn’t work as well because I left too much powder on the panel. It didn’t flow as nicely as the ribbed.
brownbr
August 2014
I got started on the main roof and have a couple of tips to offer for anyone else building this later.
-
don’t skip ahead and install the frame of the wall extension until the roof is constructed and at least temporarily fitted. You just can get it spot on by measuring alone. If you do as I did, not to worry, it is fairly easy to adjust by popping off a few boards to make them long enough to fill any gap.
-
Brett’s measurements are precise. More so than mine. Make any necessary adjustments to the size of each roof panel before adding battens. There are many areas that effect the placement of the roof like the metal roof, placement of the maintenance shed, the sawdust bin, the rafters being in the right place, etc.
Overall this was a very straightforward step with minor adjustments mentioned. The pic here shows placement of the initial stage only. Next I will take these off and install the corrugated and tarpaper patches and battens.
A question was asked earlier about making the roof removable. The whole roof will not be removable. It’s too big and bulky and fits very closely around a number of other components. I am going to try to make the big panel seen here and extension as a 1 piece removable section. I think that’s doable.
Ojaste
August 2014 edited August 2014
Bryan, the voice of experience is all knowing! I’m glad you found a was to see inside better. What are your thoughts for the colour of the wooden part of the roof?
marty
brownbr
August 2014
Mary, the roof color is a bit more gray than this photo suggests. I was going for a unbleached gray. I would like to gray it up a bit more so will probably give a light sanding and a coat of IA. I’ll make the battens slightly darker as the instructions suggest.
As a bonus, some of the wood had natural saw band marks which I tried to keep intact during the brushing. I opted not to add knotholes.
KKarns
August 2014
Well done Bryan…the metal roof weathering looks fantastic.
Ken
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Ken.
My initial thought on the roof was to just have this section removable but now I’m rethinking that. I like the idea of having the other front section removable as well. I just need to figure out how to work around the smokestack guy wires.
JohnM
August 2014
Bryan,
I see what you mean about dealing with the chimney guy wires. do you have any thoughts yet? Looking great!
Respectfully,
John
Karl.A
August 2014 edited August 2014
Looking fantastic Bryan, the roof colouring is superb. Subtle, varied, aged, weathered, functional, top notch work again.
The solution I came up with was to have the two wires removeable. If you use piano wire it will hold its shape much better than brass.
Two holes in the roof (anchor plates) to accept the wire, and the two in the “stack collar” for the other end.
Place the roof in position and bend the wire to shape/size and cut off any excess. It is then a simple process of installing/uninstalling the wires as and when the roof comes off/on.
Looking forward to you next update on this terrific work.
Karl.A
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks guys. Karl, that was exactly what I was thinking. The piano wire is a great idea instead of brass. And the whole side is now removable.
I’m taking a small break from the roof and working on one of my add-ons. Any guesses as to what it is?
ironmountainlumber
August 2014
Hi Bryan,
I have been looking at all of your fantastic work and details in your pictures. This is absolutely a masterpiece. I hope you can take it to one of the conventions or the fine scale model expo. It would be awesome to view and photograph. When you are done the photos should be in a fine model magazine.
The add on is a hoist to lift logs lumber or machines?
Jim
brownbr
August 2014
Thanks Jim. I would like to take it to a convention sometime. We’ll see if I can make that happen. I doubt if there will be any magazines left by the time I’m finished.
You win the prize…if there was one…for guessing a hoist. I should have just shown the parts unassembled.
morganhillrr
August 2014
Hi Bryan: Continuing to follow your terrific build. The details just keep on coming…Joe CCCModOn30
brownbr
August 2014
Yes Joe, and there are still castings left.
Here’s the 2nd part of the loading area. Truck bumpers. Now I think I will get back to the roof.
JohnM
August 2014
Oh boy Bryan, here you go again! The stacks of lumber are perfect and I don’t know how you did the wear and tear on the tires so perfectly . . . You are a wizard.
Respectfully,
John
KKarns
August 2014
Bryan, wonderful work here. Love the crane details. Great peeling paint on the bumper timbers and the weathering and decay on the one post is super. Ken
Wes
September 2014
Beautiful Bryan. That peeling paint on the truck bumper is awesome.
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks guys.
John, the tires are resin castings from Rusty Stump. I sanded down the tread until I got it where I wanted it then painted.
Ken and Wes, the paint is Ranger Crackle paint. Love the effect you get with this stuff. My white was all dried up so I used linen. Once it dried I lightly painted white with acrylics. Once this dried I brushed off the flakes. The rotted top was picked out.
So I’ve been looking at the big hole in the ribbed roof and wondering how to flash it. I really didn’t want to try metal flashing on this area. Do you think this would be plausible with tarpaper? It’s not glued down yet.
KKarns
September 2014
Hey Bryan..nice info. on the “crackle” paint, looks great.
If it were me, I’d use paper flashing rusted up to look like metal, tucked under the metal roofing and fitted up around the stack and then some black simulated caulking around the stack and edges of the roof panels. My thought is the tar paper would be too fragile to be plausible as a flashing. But geesh…who am I? you’ve been doing a fantastic job on this thing without my hot air!
brownbr
September 2014
You are right Ken. I’m in the process of making a metal flashing also. I wanted to see what the thoughts on this were. I think the contrast of the tarpaper on the metal will work. I would lean towards aesthetics over functionality but I would like it to be believable.
Coors2u
September 2014
Bryan, I don’t think the look is all that bad. I am just not sure you would ever put a paper product around anything that got that hot. It is a exhaust pipe. Just my two cents. If you are looking for it to be believable.
davej
September 2014
Bryan, your build is absolutely brilliant. I love the way everything has come together.
If you can make the paper conform to the surface a little more it would look like lead flashing if painted a dull gray.
I have seen lead flashing used around domestic wood heater flue but I don’t know about a commercial type chimney.
cheers
Dave
JohnM
September 2014
Bryan,
Looking GREAT! I’m anxious to see how you deal with the stack flashing. Thank you for sourcing the tires. Your tread wear is very realistic. Please keep us all up to date.
Respectfully,
John
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks guys.
Lead flashing? Who would have guessed it. I ended up going with metal. I just couldn’t get past the idea of tarpaper though I did like the contrast it gave to the metal roof. Here is a pic of the front and back stacks installed. I used some cut paste from my bonsai supplies to make a tar seal. It’s a gray clay product I painted with “oily black” for the tar color.
I’d say this phase of the build is 99% done and I’m moving on to the scenery. There will be just a few minor details to add to the structure as they occur to me…like some hoses on the fire walk.
KKarns
September 2014
Bryan, well done. I like the look and you know, that material used as a tar seal would make a great simulated weld bead.
Wes
September 2014
Brilliant Bryan. Looks fantastic.
Nice to see another bonsai grower around the train forums. Id love to see some pictures of your trees.
James
September 2014
Just keeps getting better and better! Love the winch too. I presume the crackle paint is something one could find at the usual craft stores?
MuddyCreekRR
September 2014
Bryan…amazing work…just returned from the Narrow Gauge Convention…picking up lots of figures…went nuts looking for the figure that you have by the steam engine and boiler…the one looking befuddled holding his hat…I forgot who makes him…can you clue me in…as for the metal flashing…take a look in the craft stores for the really thin silver foil…if you blacken it…it looks as close to lead or tin flashing as you can get…they also have copper if you are so inclined…as for tar sealant…coarse pastel chalk mixed with some gloss black oil paint works too…man I can’t wait to get my mill and start the build…
brownbr
September 2014 edited September 2014
Ken, I think the only drawback to this material for a weld bead is it’s lack of stickiness. You kind of have to work it into the joint where it is being applied which would be difficult on the size of a weld bead. The lack of stickiness, however is a benefit for trial and error.
Wes I’ll take some fresh photos of the trees. I haven’t taken any this season. My personal favorites are boxwoods, azaleas and junipers. I have a couple of buxux koreanas and karume azaleas that were in a garden for 30 years or so and I have been working on them for close to 15 that are taking shape nicely.
James, I got the crackle paint from Michaels a couple of years ago. I tried to get some more when I saw that my white was solid but they didn’t have it anymore. I do see it online though.
I like these Phoenix figures but have not found a US supplier.
The metal flashing was made with painted card stock. And I had a lot of fun coming up with the crane. I had it in mind from the beginning but wasn’t sure how it would come together until I had the rafters on. I can’t wait to see you get started on the kit. Brett said it was a quick build because it doest have walls but I’m not convinced. I’m 4 months in-5 if you count the machinery-and have another month or so to go. Then comes the log unloader…
brownbr
September 2014
I got a just enough greenery added to add a little life and I’m starting to thing about the next stage of construction. Everyone has had some good input and ideas to add so I’m asking again for thoughts on the back of the mill.
For perspective, in the view from the front of the mill the area to the top far left on the diorama will be the log unloader. The area behind the diorama is about 2 feet of nothing that I am leaving open for other sawmill auxiliary buildings. I’m focusing on the right side of the dio on the other side of the tracks.
I’ve been thinking about what to put there and here you see a temporarily placed boxcar that could be set on blocks as extra warehouse space. Other ideas I have had are
A big junk pile to include railroad ties, pallets, cable spools, etc.
Empty space with a couple of tree trunks.
A small repair shed.
A Dolbeer donkey.
I’m keeping in mind that right up to the edge of the dio will be other structures that will need to tie into the sawmill and the log unloader will be behind whatever is placed here and I want a good view of it from the front and both sides.
I’m leaning towards the donkey and placing a repair shed next to it-on the layout but not on this dio. I was initially convinced about the boxcar shed but like to explore options. So have at it.
Karl.A
September 2014
The mill looks incredible Bryan, just a superb job all around, beautifully done indeed.
I’m thinking about the space…
Karl.A
Wes
September 2014
Wonderful Bryan.
I too will have a think about the space.
admin
September 2014
just wonderful - fantastic job Bryan.
Ojaste
September 2014
Bryan,
This really sweet!
You may consider for your junk pike stuff the sawmill would have use and was broken. I.e. Some of the stuff you built for the inside.
Marty
JohnM
September 2014
Oh boy Bryan, it is looking fantastic!
Respectfully,
John
sdrees
September 2014
Bryan, very nice
Steve
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks all. Yes Marty I think something like machinery parts would work in a junk pile. I’t going to need to be fairly big. I’m still thinking that the donkey would look good as a center piece.
I’m building some pallets and cable spools now.
KKarns
September 2014
Bryan, great work here, very nicely done! I would keep the view into the sawmill as unobstructed as is reasonable so I vote for a light junk/clutter area with some low weeds, etc. hiding some rusty metal and some aged wood items here and there. Love the old rusted barrel…great job on that piece! Ken
MuddyCreekRR
September 2014
The boxcar storage along with the small debris pile i thing would work great…a good place to add texture and rust…the rusty machinery and maybe some aged wood items would so the job…
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks guys for the ideas. I think I’m going to just start adding some general clutter like wood/metal castings and wait and see what’s going to go behind it before I do anything major. Then I can tie the 2 areas together.
Test fitting in the layout. I need to add on to my track lighting to get the front of the mill. These 2 pics show the 2 angles that it can be seen at up close. It’s right out on the end of a mini peninsula.
I think I will get a couple more outdoors shots this weekend then wire it up and finish the detailing in place.
Karl.A
September 2014
The placement is perfect Bryan, all four sides are visible for major and optimum viewing, great planning. This layout is going to be a high point in modeling and if you choose it will be extensively covered in the publications. Terrific work/modeling.
Karl.A
James
September 2014
Absolutely awesome right down to the grass and rusty drum! And the layout looks amazing too. Great work and a great thread!
KKarns
September 2014
Bryan, beautiful and love that last shot with the sweet builds in the background..great stuff…Ken
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks Karl for the vote of confidence. James and Ken, after I get this installed my next task will be to clean off the layout. It has been collecting all kinds of junk from 2 consecutive builds. I have been detailing it to the level of a SW diorama. It takes a long time but it sure is worth it. I’ll also get a couple of photos with the interior lights turned on.
I did get it outside this weekend. I’d say the structure is complete. I’ve got some work to do on the groundwork but it is coming along nicely. Once I figure out what is going in behind the mill I will have a better idea on how to proceed.
September 2014
I forgot to include the removable roof section.
September 2014
And then I made it the wrong size…sorry
Ojaste
September 2014 edited October 2014
Bryan,
Its hard for me to describe how great the sawmill looks. There is so much detail, and realistic details, that it would take me a week to find it all. To me that is measure of a true craftsman. Which kit is next on the workbench?
Marty
Wes
September 2014
Bryan you have done an amazing job. Id be very proud of that effort.
Looking forward to seeing this beauty installed.
brownbr
September 2014
Thanks Marty. Next for me is to clean up the layout and really think about what should come next. I know there will be some annex buildings for the mill behind it. I also want a backwoods engine shed/machine shop. And would like to shoehorn a donkey repair yard in there as well. I’d really like to get back to work on my logging area…finish a couple of logging engines and rig up a spar tree.
Thanks Wes. It has been a satisfying build.
I got it installed in the layout and wired it up. The section of track is pulling double duty as my programming track.
MuddyCreekRR
September 2014
All I can say is…WOW…outstanding work on your part…outstanding quality and forethought by Brett…I can’t wait for my kit to arrive so I can get started…Thanks for all of your posts Bryan…I know I will reference them once I get my kit on the workbench…WOW
sdrees
September 2014
Bryan,
The project is outstanding in every detail. The extra effort to put in the lighting really paid off. Very nice job.
Steve
KKarns
September 2014
Well done my good man! The removable roof worked out well for you. What a terrific piece Bryan. Night shots look fantastic as well…feels good doesn’t it…almost done. You should be as proud as Wes…well maybe not that proud but close! Ken
Karl.A
September 2014
I’ll say it again Bryan, incredible job. There can never be enough pictures to show this off completely, amazing kit, fantastic build. Beautiful says it all.
Karl.A
Ojaste
September 2014
Love the night shots!
JohnM
September 2014
Bryan, that is fantastic! Could you please comment on the color and size of the LED’s? I like the effect. I want to do that for my “in the open” lighting. But of course the overall work is really great . . .
John
brownbr
September 2014
This is LED used. It’s the 2x3mm incandescent from ngineering dot com
morganhillrr
September 2014
Bryan: Fantastic job and thanks for all your tutorials which will come in handy when I construct my kit (soon I hope)…Joe CCCModOn30
JohnM
September 2014
Bryan,
Thanks. I bought just about everything Ngineering has. I’ll check my inventory when I reach that part of the build.
John
James
October 2014
Fantastic shots. All that wiring and lighting is really paying dividends. I love the last shot where we see the guy snoozing in the corner. Looks like it was a long tough day at the mill…
Joel
October 2014
Bryan,
Just catching up with this thread. I’ve been trying to find a new project to get excited about and it’s nice to see someone get out of a modelling funk and do spectacular work. Amazing. An incredible model built to perfection. Thanks for sharing. Dare I ask what’s next?
brownbr
October 2014
Joe and John, I’m looking forward to your builds.
James, it certainly was a long day at the mill.
Joel, thanks. I’ve been working on a couple of small projects. A water tank for the boiler here. I’m also in the finishing stages of a sled for a Willamette loader for my logging area. Just some things to keep me occupied while I think more about the landscaping around the mill.
MuddyCreekRR
October 2014
I wish someone had a photo of the smile on my face as I arrived home to find a package by my front door…one sent by Brett…as I rushed in the house and hastily opened it…I realized that the Postal Service so far has only brought me the main box…can’t wait till Monday for the second box…this is normal in Jersey…It was like Christmas opening the box and perusing all the goodies, templates and manual. I have plans to start the build process during the week. I plan to have a mill pond, so I am going to have to figure that in on that end of the mill, but the modifications look to be minimal, mainly the roof area over the log ramp. I for sure will be referencing Bryans outstanding photos and advice, and I will be sure to document and share the addition of the mill pond. I have already finished most of the machinery, having purchased it all several years back, which lead me to wanting to add the mill pond. Brett…all I can say is the kit looks out this world as usual. The mill is going to be the focal point of a large module system that will be removable from the main layout. Several other SW kits will round out the complex…and yes…I will post the pictures…maybe it might show up in Scranton if all goes well…
Wes
October 2014
Looking forward to your pictures and your start on the sawmill.
MuddyCreekRR
November 2014
While waiting on my second box of strip wood and such…I am going to start on the resin and metal detail parts…since this has been well covered…I’ll just post a few pictures of the finished product. I’ve had time to study the templates…and I think I have figured out how I plan to approach the use of the inclined log haulway and mill pond…I will post those pictures once I get that far…
morganhillrr
November 2014
Hi: I’m looking forward to your build, especially your log haul and mill pond. I’m building 2- On30 modules depicting a logging complex and I have to do the same thing. I should be starting the sawmill structure shortly…Joe CCCModOn30
MuddyCreekRR
November 2014 edited November 2014
Joe…from what I have looked at…the inclined ramp will fit right into the space the log roll way is to occupy…with just a slight extension of the carriage way. Then there is the modification of the roof line over that area…I’ll post pictures and drawings once I get to that point…
David_C
December 2014
Wow Bryan. I’m finally back on the forum but have been following your sawmill build. You are an incredible modeller and I can only hope to build my sawmill with a fraction of your workmanship. I love your characters, they are priceless. I have a lot of grain of rice bulbs but after meeting the fellow from Ngineering at our local show in Chilliwack and seeing what you have done, I might try my hand at using his LEDs. Fantastic work Bryan.
David
JohnM
January 2015
Bryan,
We need a picture update from you - please . . .
John
brownbr
January 2015
Sorry I missed these.
Thank you David. Try the LED’s you will love them…after you curse them while wiring.
John, I really haven’t done much on this. I’m waiting on the loader to finish the scene. I have been tinkering here and there will some added details like the vines growing up this post and adding a boxcar auxiliary storage shed. The fire fighting tank car will serve double purpose as water for the boiler and emergency services should they be needed.
The vines are juniper roots.
KKarns
January 2015
Nice detail Bryan, everything looks really good.
James
January 2015
again- inspirational work. Love the vines- and is that a small “hit and miss” on top of the red car? I know you’ve shown it before but I really like the boiler and all the drums and clutter you’ve put in the scene.
brownbr
January 2015
Thanks James. Yes that is a hit and miss on top of the red car. You can rely on gravity to fight a fire.
morganhillrr
May 2015
Hi Bryan: I’m reviewing your roof sections for guidance and ran across the hoist out front again. I love it; care to share who makes that little beauty? Thanks, Joe CCCModOn30
brownbr
May 2015
Thanks Joe. It’s a scratch build. The base plate and hook came from a kit that I didn’t really care for after I got it. It was a pillar crane on a brick base though I can’t quite remember who made it. The rest is just wood and extra parts from this kit and maybe some others. Styrene and NBW for the fishplate. I thought it looked right at home there. I can try to take a better shot if you like.
morganhillrr
May 2015
Thanks Bryan, you did a beautiful job scratch building that crane. No additional photo needed at this time…Joe CCCModOn30
mayhaw9999
May 2015
Bryan,
Yesterday, I went through your entire build. I had enforced down time waiting for a friend who I had driven to San Francisco for out patient surgery. This is a magnificent build with so many good tutorials and so much eye candy. I enjoyed, and profited from, reviewing your lighting thought processes and final implementation. Such an outstanding addition. And, of course, the figures! When I see everything you have accomplished, I wonder if I should be an O scale builder. Thanks for looking in on my SW build.
David U
brownbr
May 2015
Thanks Joe and David. The lights proved to be quite a challenge but well worth it in the end.
And yes, you should be an O scale builder. I say that in slight jest due to “scale pride”. I was happy doing N scale until I put about 2,000 NBW in a trestle and then realized–hey there are fewer NBW in O scale. Or is it that I just don’t have enough room for an O scale trestle that will take 2,000 NBW?
And Tony, if you read this, I needed professional help at that point.
vietnamseabee
January 2022
You may ask why I brought a 7 year old thread to the present…two reasons, first its a great thread with a lot of great information that might benefit others as it has me. Second I have a question for Bryan. In the photos of the sawmill interior you’ve spread sawdust around the Mill interior and specifically on top of and around the machinery (Edger)…how did you spread the sawdust and more importantly how did you make it adhere?..solution of glue/water from a spray bottle?
thanks
Terry
admin
January 2022
Excellent question Terry, and agreed, this is a great thread. Glad you brought her back for us to enjoy!
vietnamseabee
January 2022
I think the general tendency is to read, enjoy and learn from the current and immediate thread comments which I do on a daily basis. However, I also take the old threads, combine the many pages of the thread into a single file and then read at my leisure on my kindle.
A wealth of knowledge which has been shared over the years
Terry
brownbr
January 2022
Thanks Terry. The sawdust was a fun challenge to tackle and was the result of a few experiments. What won out in the end follows:
Start by taking an ample supply of sawdust created when brushing the stripwood…you will have plenty. Mix in an appropriate colored pigment to color the sawdust. I used AK North Africa Dust. This mixture is the larger bits of sawdust that accumulates on the floor. The pigment alone is the sawdust that accumulated on the machinery. By mixing the sawdust and pigment, both are the same color. I made a small scoop to apply the pigment by taking a copper wire (about 1 mm) and hammering one end flat to make a “shovel”. Place the pigment on the machines, let it pile up and fall off just like it would in real life.
To fix both mixtures I used AK Gravel and Sand Fixer applied gently with a pipette. I found that the Fixer changed (very slightly) the color tone on the wood so I applied the fixer to the entire floor. It dries clear and matte, but do not apply to a wet surface as you will get white clumps form.
vietnamseabee
January 2022
Thanks buddy, great info
Terry
kebmo
January 2022
wow, i don’t know how i missed this thread. what a fabulous looking model. hard as i try, i can’t find a way to make room for this, but i sure would love to try building it.