Thanks much Tom! Already starting my next project.
Appreciate that George!
One note George,
You mentioned where the water meets the shore. I used all acrylic products for the water. The acrylics don’t have the “creep” that the resin water has. Makes for very realistic small water. Large areas are hard to get a really good, depth, look so I’d still use epoxy for that.
Excellent modelling what more can one say.
Ken you have to stop going to that Sawmill in the woods by you and taking these pictures!!
This is so realistic it’s beyond words!!!
Jerry
Ken, each photograph is a pleasure to watch. There is so much to discover within every scene. Absolutely outstanding modeling you show us here.
Thanks much Kevin!
lol…appreciate that Gerard!
Nice hearing from you JenS and thanks so much for the note here.
Ken, what you do in HO, the artistry, the imagination is unreal. Thank you so much for showing us your vision..
Hi Dwaine,
Really nice hearing from you and such a nice note here, thank you! Really makes the work worthwhile to hear from fellow modelers and to keep in touch, appreciate it.
I did not know that, Ken. I’ve never done water on any of my dioramas although I probably should learn how as, when done well like yours, it definitely adds a lot. Thanks for the insight and I’ll use only acrylic “water”. Take care.
Hey George,
Thanks much and for my modeling, if I’m going to do any deeper water I would do a resin based pour and then texture the surface with the Acrylic water products. Acrylics do not work for deeper water like resin does. The resin can go as deep as you want but the surface will be glass smooth, so texture surface with acrylics. If I’m doing rather shallow water like puddles, ditches, small creeks, running water, etc I would do all acrylics.
I did not know that, Ken. I wasn’t aware that there is resin and acrylic water products. Your tips are really great so thanks for sharing that with us.
Glad it was helpful. The creek, as mentioned, was all acrylics. As long as you keep each application relatively thin, you can keep layering until it looks right to you.
i honestly have no words.
you should move to chicago and do miniature work at the museum of science and industry. they have a massive ho layout (i recommend everybody go see it, cuz its awesome. it depicts the route from chcago to seattle. they could make you president and chief bottle washer of their logging division, and you would make their scenery look sickly in comparison. you are definitely THE MAN!!
Hey Kevin, nice hearing from you my friend! Awfully nice of you to say and thanks so much. Chicago?…don’t think so, not a fan of big cities but that display sounds interesting. If I ever find myself there, I’ll have to check that out. Keep in touch.
Ken, I have not spent much time on the Forum lately. I thought I’d spend 10 or 15 minutes reading through your Tie Mill build this morning. Two hours later and about 1/2 way through. What an education. I love the work on the skid, the addition of the hood, the oil stains on the bridge, everything is brilliant. The detail parts just look real, you mentioned using primarily “artist oils” on the detail parts - is there details on how these are applied or manufacturers anywhere on the forum? Your track detail is awesome. I’m going to have to spend more time reading, but this is truly both inspirational and motivating.
Ray
Hey Ray,
Appreciate the note and kind words here. Sorry if I gave the impression that I primarily use oils for detail parts, as that’s not really the case. Artist oils are just another tool to have in the tool box when weathering. I could do an entire tutorial just on the use of oils in fine scale modeling. This is my standard procedure for detailing most of the 3D Detail Parts from this build:
I first prime the part with one of three basic colors; black, gray, and dark brown. I make the decision based on what type of part it is and the final appearance I want. I then paint the part with the color and use acrylics most of the time. I then proceed with the weathering using predominantly pigments and in many cases some limited oils and oil based products. Oils in this case are good for simulating oil and grease and can be very effective as a carrier for pigments. Oils are available at artist supply stores and a brand like Winsor & Newton are good but I prefer 502 Abteilung oils. Hope that helps Ray and again, appreciate your note.
Finally got a chance to catch up on this fantastic build. You’ve really surpassed yourself here. You keep setting the bar higher and higher. The scene composition, the colouring, weathering all works hand in hand to produce a piece of art. Can’t wait to see some outdoor pictures in May or June.
Thank you that’s very helpful. Between the resin, white metal, and 3D printed parts Brett has included about 500 detail parts excluding the sawmill equipment, lots of fodder.
Hi Ken, I just thought that it is time to up your game and build a stack of cut railroad ties. You don’t need to cut the full 2 million that are here( so the caption says) , but shall we say 10,000 to get you started !
Mine arrived today , so I shall be studying instructions and your photos to get a feel for the kit . Then I will be scratching my head to see if I can make it differently to everyone else’s.
Nick
Hey Nick,
Good grief! that can’t be real…why in the world stock pile that many ties before shipping them out for use. I’ll get started…one, two, three…
Look forward to what you come up with! I have been working on the Machine Shop and did a whole different take on the front stone wall. I’ll be starting a build thread of that project soon. Wanted to get a bit ahead as I’ll be working sporadically with the nice weather coming up.
Nice hearing from you and keep in touch.