This thread was started in November, 2022
vietnamseabee
November 2022 edited November 2022 in O Scale Builds
The final package of the three part O Scale sawmill arrived yesterday….the machinery. Even tho I’m an HO scale builder, I’ve had my eye on this kit from the first time I “wandered” into Brett’s website.
I’ve got a couple of builds to finish up and then the sawmill moves to the top of my to-do list….maybe late spring
Terry
Comments
kebmo
November 2022
vietnamseabee said:
The final package of the three part O Scale sawmill arrived yesterday….the machinery. Even tho I’m an HO scale builder, I’ve had my eye on this kit from the first time I “wandered” into Brett’s website.
I’ve got a couple of builds to finish up and then the sawmill moves to the top of my to-do list….maybe late spring
Terry
you and me both!
KKarns
November 2022 edited November 2022
Terry…what are you doing! You start working on that beautiful O Scale Sawmill and I’m afraid we’ll lose another HO scale modeler to the dark side.lol.
admin
November 2022
Cannot wait to see your build of the sawmill. Oh, and I absolutely love the title of your thread!
Dave_S
November 2022
Terry,
Fear not! There is plenty of light on the dark side,
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Joel
November 2022
Love this kit. Looking forward to your version.
Karl.A
November 2022
Fantastic news Terry (and Kevin), cant wait to follow along with you (both) as you build this amazing kit.
MuddyCreekRR
November 2022
I just looked at mine which is in progress…but stored away as I am not ready to plant it on the layout…I’ll be watching
kebmo
November 2022
it’s gonna be a while for me.
brownbr
November 2022
Can’t wait for the start.
Jerry
November 2022
Looking forward to this build!!
Jerry
randyp
November 2022
Jerry said:
Looking forward to this build!!
Jerry
I second that. Randy
vietnamseabee
November 2022
Ken…. Good one… that brought a smile to my face.
I’m gonna go “out on a limb “ here. I know you’re working your way thru Brett’s HO kits in the order they were released but when you finish those up your modeling fingers will grab onto the O scale sawmill …just sayin’
Terry
KKarns
November 2022
Terry, Putting my hands over my ears and….lalalalala!!!
kebmo
November 2022
you know he’s right. you won’t be able to resist. especially after i start butchering it. you’ll be like, “NO, NO, NO. you should do it like this.” and you’ll proceed to show us all on your very own o scale saw mill.
cheers.
vietnamseabee
November 2022
So….I’ve started reading Brett’s construction manuals and several build threads from the forum. I’ve come across (5) builds:
Another O Scale Sawmill (Bill)
Most Ambitious So Far thr O Scale Sawmill (Robert G)
Sawmill Complex On30 Module
(MoganHillRR
SierraWest O Scale Sawmill Kit 308
(Karl A)
The Sawmill Project Kit 308
(brownbr)
Will take me awhile to digest this info but some great modelers have gone before me to break the trail
Terry
SonofVietnamSeabee
November 2022
Have fun with it, old man.
vietnamseabee
November 2022
It’s great having my son interested in the same hobby as me….
admin
November 2022
You’re very lucky “old man”… hah!
kebmo
November 2022
no kidding. i got into this hobby so i could have something to share with my boys. they couldn’t care less about it… oh well.
vietnamseabee
January 2023
So…in preparation for building this kit later this spring, I’m spending a lot of time studying the templates and construction manual, as well as several previous builds posted on the forum (Bill, Bryan, Karl, Robert and Joe). A question has arisen that maybe those who have built this kit can answer.
The manual/template calls for the carriage risers/rails (the log carriage travels back and forth on this) to be installed as the non prototypical length of around 63 feet. Wouldn’t it be more realistic to install the wood risers in sections of 16-20’ lengths (depending on spacing of underlying supports) and the rail in the neighborhood of 33 feet. Also, the manual calls for the rail to be adhered to the risers with epoxy glue (which I agree with) but also shouldn’t there also be rail spikes used (purely cosmetic)?
Or am I being too much of a ‘rivet counter’…thoughts and opinions please.
BTW, when my build finally kicks off it appears it will be a concurrent build with another one of our members so perhaps he will also be interested to the response(s) to this question
Terry
MuddyCreekRR
January 2023
Most rail sections in the day were 39 feet long, to fit on a 40 foot flatcar…at the actual Sturgeons saw mill ( I’ve been there) they are secured with spikes, and also some metal underbracing to maintain the “guage” (distance between the rails). You can add details everywhere…but most won’t be seen on the actual model…I have NBW castings in places that are really hard to see, but I am happy in my own mind that they are there…
Karl.A
January 2023 edited January 2023
Good info Art.
You could cut the risers down to length, just ensure you keep them straight.
Another thing to do would be to score them at joints just to give the appearance of separate pieces while still giving the ease of assembly meticulously designed into the kit.
With a 63’ length you would only need two joints for each riser anyway and they would be towards the center of the mill and essentially hidden.
Once you add the machinery, walls and other construction and then add some sawdust and all the many, many details around the scene, the joints would likely never be noticed.
The spikes for the rail would be a nice addition. Especially visible at the open end of the carriageway, depending on where you put the carriage.
The joints would be visible at this very early stage.
But even at this early second construction stage they would be hard to notice.
And I haven’t even got any sawdust, details, walls, rafters etc. in place at this point yet.
Most importantly, make it your own and enjoy the build.
I know we are all going to enjoy following along with you.
vietnamseabee
January 2023
Muddy….thanks for the info on the rail lengths and the encouragement of placing details even when they’ll be hard to see
Karl… great idea on “scoring “ in faux joints in the rail risers. A concern I had was cutting the risers and then getting the pieces aligned….(head slap) why didn’t I think of that
Terry
sdrees
January 2023
Hey Terry, you are talking to a bunch of rivet counters on this forum.
Karl.A
January 2023
!!!
MuddyCreekRR
January 2023 edited January 2023
Another tidbit…you seldom find a length of dimensional lumber longer than 20 feet..not that you can’t find them longer…so the same concept Karl put forth…you need to either cut your wood no longer that 20 feet scale feet ( 5 inches)…or…as Karl says…put in faux joints…light pressure with a dull #11 blade will look like two joined boards or beams…just don’t score too deep. This gives you a chance to brace the joint with bolts and gussets…the possibilities are endless…As stated…it’s your world…build is to your liking
Karl.A
January 2023 edited January 2023
MuddyCreekRR said:
Another tidbit…you seldom find a length of dimensional lumber longer than 20 feet..
What ?? 24ft is a standard size available at HD, Lowes and any lumber yard.
Besides, this is a logging operation from well over 100 years ago. They could cut down a 150ft tall old growth redwood.
They cut what ever lumber they wanted or needed and built the mill out of it with only practical limitations.
The lumber was cut to the required size for construction in either a temporary mill on site or in one of the other mills the company had elsewhere.
If they needed a 30ft beam they didnt order 2 20ft beams from Lowes dot com and brace them together, they just got a 40ft log and cut what they needed out of it, in one piece.
It’s a sawmill operation, they made their own lumber, in whatever practical size they needed.
MuddyCreekRR
January 2023 edited January 2023
I’ll not argue…but I’ve never seen any cut dimensional lumber over 24 feet… how could they fit a longer piece down the log ramp and onto the carriage…
Karl.A
January 2023
No argument from me Art, sorry if it came across that way.
I was just trying to say, that the ramp and carriage wouldn’t be there yet to limit them, during construction of it.
They would be able to cut lumber to any practical length they needed in a temporary situation, so, no need for us to be overly constrained.
I hope that clarifies what I was trying to say.
Dave_S
February 2023
Terry.
I encourage you to detail the rails. As pointed out by Steve, “You are talking to a bunch of rivet counters.” We model Sierra West Scale Models because we love the fine details associated with the build. Not only do the kits make it possible for a modeler to create extremely realistic models but in fact fine art.
About a dozen years ago I came across a great publication, “Detailing Track” by Mike Cougill, Techniques For Modeling Prototypical Looking Track. [ISBN: 978-9746143-2-8]
The soft covered publication, published in 2010, is 125 pages of great inspiration. While it may take a bit of searching to find a copy you may find yourself referencing the information found in the book for different scenes and dioramas, not to mention layout modeling.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
vietnamseabee
February 2023
Thanks Dave…. I have this book and have already been looking thru the section on Track and Bsllast…..a great resource. The book is readily available on Mike’s website where he has several other interesting publications on modeling. If anyone wants the link, message me and i’ll forward it
Terry
SonofVietnamSeabee
February 2023
I believe that SonofVietnamSeabee bought that book for you as a gift. Glad to see it’s helping.
I am still raising two toddlers so no modeling news to report here.
Dave_S
February 2023
Terry,
It looks like two more Sawmill projects can be added to your list of Sawmill Projects to peruse as references.
“Another O Scale Sawmill” (Bill)
“Most Ambitious So Far the O Scale Sawmill” (Robert G)
“Sawmill Complex On30 Module” (MoganHillRR)
“SierraWest O Scale Sawmill Kit 308” (Karl A)
“The Sawmill Project Kit 308” (brownbr)
:
“Terry and the O scale Sawmill” (Vietnamseabee)
“Kevin L From Melbourne Australia” (Kevin L )
Thanks for adding this great reference list.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
vietnamseabee
May 2023
I’m nearly ready to start posting my build progress on the mighty O Scale sawmill, however, first, can anyone offer some advice on weathering an old creosote retaining wall?
The sawmill construction documents call for a sloping grade change and for a portion of this I want to use a low retaining wall.
My build photos will begin shortly
Terry
Karl.A
May 2023 edited May 2023
Well !!
I sure cant wait for this build to start,
I’ll have a look through some chalks and see if anything looks about right.
Robert.G
May 2023
I’ll be watching very close by what you do with the fantastic kit Terry !!! 
admin
May 2023
Looking forward to following along!
kebmo
May 2023
me too! sorry about not co-building the sawmill with you, but i have this watertower kit on the shelf and i wanna dig into that one next instead. i’m going to be following your thread closely though.
Kevin L
May 2023
Like those above I also will look forward to seeing your build of this great kite. I know you will do it justice.
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
Mine still sits about 1/5th complete…soon
vietnamseabee
May 2023 edited May 2023
So, this begins my build thread for the O scale sawmill. I won’t go into the contents of the boxes (3) since that has pretty well been covered in previous builds….suffice it to say there’s a whole bunch of stripwood, an unbelievable number of castings (what we’ve all come to expect from a SWSM kit) and 10 ten kits of machinery that are as amazing as they are intimidating.
I began, as usual, graining and texturing the stripwood for the subfloor beams and girders. I tried a few sample C/A colors but ultimately went with Brett’s recommendation in the construction manual…408.5 chalk/alcohol.
Brett provides a full size layout of the sub-floor framing on Template 1. I taped the template down and covered it with a sheet of drafting vellum. Rather than spot glue the framing members to the vellum I instead used blue painters tape to hold the framing pieces in place as the additional members were glued in place.
Earlier I had asked a question directed generally to any of the previous builders of the sawmill regarding the (2) Carriage Rail riser pieces. These are a scale 63 feet long. My question regarded placing them as one piece of timber (which wouldn’t be prototypically correct) but mounting them as real world lengths might prove difficult. Karl came back with a great suggestion of placing the rail riser timber as one piece of but to score the timber to create faux joints at a more believable length. I made the joints at around 20” being sure to place the fake joint(s) over an underlying support beam. I dipped a rag in A/I and wiped the joints to help them be more believable. The Carriage Rail riser(s) can be seen in the last photo. Great suggestion Karl, thanks.
That’s it for this update. Next up will be the Rope Drum assembly and cable sheaves (which moves the Log Carriage back and forth) as well as the Double Husk saw
Terry
Karl.A
May 2023
Glad it worked out for you Terry.
Looking great so far, nice colour.
sdrees
May 2023
Ok Terry, this will be a good one to follow.
brownbr
May 2023
Glad to see you bringing this to life. Looking forward to the build.
kebmo
May 2023
it looks really good so far bud.
Jim M
May 2023
Terry, it is looking great. Excited to watch this, I want to start mine soon.
Kevin L
May 2023
Looking really good, great idea protecting the templates with drafting vellum I deed like wise, you never know if you need to back to them.
ALCOALCO
May 2023
Yes, the vellum is a tip/trick that would be very useful for saving the documents for later reference.
Jerry
May 2023
Nice job so far Terry.
Jerry
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Thanks for stopping by, guys…. I’m always open to suggestions
Terry
sdrees
May 2023
I always make copies of the templates and use double sided tape.
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Update 002…I made a stab at building the Double Husk Saw…My first time building a piece of machinery like this…has been an experience…there’s a bunch of SMALL parts that fly off the tweezers and are devoured by the carpet gremlins…
Overall I’m not real happy with how this turned out but I learned a lot…I think I’ll probably order a new saw kit and use the experience I gained on this one and moving forward the rebuild and future machinery builds will be better for it.
Overall I enjoyed the build and hope future builders aren’t put off by the machinery (Kev)
Terry
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
I like the green…came out good…how’d you weather the upper blade…I like the way it looks…
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Muddy
Saw blades were primed with rattle can gray primer….brushed with Reaper Tarnish Steel .
I then mounted the blade on my Dremel tool and at a slow speed dry brushed AK4113 dark rust, AK 4112 med rust and finally AK 4111 light rust
Terry
Robert.G
May 2023
This is looking very well !!! And it’s just the first of a long list of machinery to build. So much more fun up ahead!! I can only say, enjoy it as much as you can because when it’s done, it’s over… The thrill is in the chase, not the kill…
Karl.A
May 2023 edited May 2023
It’s looking great Terry, the green looks really good, as do the polishing/wear marks on the blades.
It’s been a long time since I built my last one of these so I’m not sure of your need for a rebuild.
Once the belts are put onto the tensioner, the blade drive and the blower connection I think it’s going to be looking great.
It already does.
Karl.A
May 2023
Wise words Robert, the journey is a wonderful trip to take.
(and then the hours and hours of just sitting there, staring, looking at it finished and thinking, “wow that’s amazing, I did that…” )
Kevin L
May 2023
I agree with comments made by Robert & Karl, it looks really great I don’t think you need a rebuild but at the same time you are the one who has to be happy with it.
kebmo
May 2023
i agree with kevin. it’s looking just fine. i would go with it.
admin
May 2023 edited May 2023
looks great Terry, no need to re-do.
I have spoken with many modelers over the years about the sawmill machinery kits. Yes, there are small parts, but the alternative is for me to dumb them down and then they would just be blah and ordinary, not true scale models. (I will never do that!) It is those small details that make them so amazing and as Karl says, you will feel a sense of accomplishment when completed. They are not difficult to assemble. Take your time, identify the parts off the drawing and pics (key in assembly!), and follow the instructions. The new 3D Printed generation of sawmill machinery kits are especially enjoyable to build.
I want to remind you I am here if you have any questions or need a replacement part.
I absolutely love what Robert said, very true!
vietnamseabee
May 2023 edited May 2023
Thanks to all of you for your comments….what I’m going to do is finish building this one out and weathering it more, for the experience if nothing else, and when its time to mount it on the floor make a final decision .
Also, let it be known that I appreciate the “atta boy” comments, who doesn’t, but I also appreciate the comments suggesting how i might use a different approach or methodology in my modeling…just want to keep getting better. One way to do that is with suggestions from my peers
Terry
TomMich
May 2023
Terry, this is the right place for assistance and advice for our modeling. There are many great modelers on this forum and their comments are always appreciated. Your saw looks very good. I see no reason to redo it. Like has been mentioned when all the belts are applied and the saw is in the model any little defects likely won’t show.
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Thanks Tom
Terry
Karl.A
May 2023
Terry,
you know I’ll be honest and don’t give “attaboys” lightly… it does get me in trouble ‘occasionally’…
It’s hard to see what you feel is wrong with the previous pictures, if you express what you are not happy with specifically that may generate some suggestions or alternative routes from us to help you along.
As you say, we are all here to learn and improve from each other, to both get advice and also help where we can.
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
You can count on people here leading you down the right path…If you have done something that you feel isn’t the way you think it should look…it’s your world…you need to make it the way you want your world to look…as Karl said…no automatic “atta-boys”…so if you have specific concerns…state them…in the end…you should make it look as you want it to look…people here can answer concerns and led you to hopefully the look you want…
Robert.G
May 2023
Brett, please stay with what you are doing now and don’t give in on 'easy & quick '. Your kits, machinery, details is what puts you above all the rest, way above, so keep on being Sierra West !!! You know I think this is the Mother of all kits and Terry and all of us enjoy the building of it, seeing it come alive !!!.
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Most of my issues with the saw relate to workmanship on my part and lack of experience in building this type of model…..Brett, the small part comment was directed to other builders to be aware and careful in handling the small parts. I would never advocate for “dumbing “ down your kits.
Im thoroughly enjoying this build….next update will be on the MANY log posts the floor sits on….update soon
Terry
vietnamseabee
May 2023 edited May 2023
This is a question primarily for those of you who have built the sawmill. I’m working on on log deck where the logs are unloaded from the rail car. The deck has two layers of plank flooring/decking. The first layer is put down with some order and uniformity. The second layer is very haphazard is direction snd spacing….almost as if in the 1:1 world the planks were just thrown down to protect the first layer from damage.
Rather than merely following the directions explicitly i like to try and understand the operation of the mill or the thought process of the 1:1 builders
Any thoughts?
Terry
admin
May 2023
The second “haphazard” layer was beat to hell by the logs dumped on them. It is also just a craftsman kit! I am “the builder”, my thoughts? Make It prototypical but interesting. You are a very experienced modeler so go with what feels right to you. There is no absolute, wrong or right. Karl and I designed this kit to be fun to build, stop stressing over the little things and enjoy the process!
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Thanks Brett
This is shaping up to be my most enjoyable build ever…..what a great kit so far…..
Terry
kebmo
May 2023
vietnamseabee said:
Thanks Brett
This is shaping up to be my most enjoyable build ever…..what a great kit so far…..
Terry
that’s great to hear buddy.
Kevin L
May 2023
I repeat you are doing a great job and once again it’s your build and you are the one who needs to be happy. I have made a few blunders during my build some I managed to fix and others I left since I felt more damage could be caused in undoing, and these errors would be almost impossible to see on the completed model. I am happy with my progress taking into account it’s my first build in over 20 years.
Karl.A
May 2023 edited May 2023
As Brett says, we designed the kit to be fun and simple to build, but also prototypical with lots of character. Everything is based on the real mill.
We guessed that the second layer was thrown down as re-enforcement as the first layer would be damaged extensively over time from the use of the peavies and jacks that are scattered around the rollway and used to manually move the logs.
Here is one of the thousands of prototype pics of the actual mill that we used when we were designing the kit.
Note the haphazard boards to the right of where the logs are on the rollway.
The real Sturgeons Mill.
I do have a pic somewhere of the real rollway without the logs on it which shows why we designed and modeled it that way, with two layers and the second being haphazard, just like the original mill.
I’ll post it if/when I find it on the old PC, rest assured, we did it the right way.
Karl.A
May 2023 edited May 2023
I couldn’t find the exact picture I was looking for, but here are a few more of that area of the real mill that I found in my old files from back then when we were doing more research, these show the second layer of uneven boards.
Dang that folder was over 10 years ago.
As Brett say’s, do what you feel is right for you, but keep in mind the kit was very deeply and extensively researched and developed over several years and is extremely close to the actual mill, to make it kitable.
We could have just had the deck level for the kit, but the second random layer is too much of a beautiful detail that gives so much interest and depth to the scene that it had to be in the kit.
Besides, it’s authentic to the real mill and something most others would overlook.
The real Sturgeons Mill.
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Thanks Karl for the explanation snd pix……great photos
Terry
vietnamseabee
May 2023 edited May 2023
This update covers the timber piers the sawmill floor sets on as well as the sheave and cable drum assembly which moves the log carriage back and forth.
The dowel which becomes the timber piers is much more dense and hard than the stripwood we’re normally used to working with…perhaps a different wood species…regardless, about the only tool which would achieve the graining I wanted on the piers was a ‘nail board’ which many of you are familiar with.
For the pier color I used a mixture of A/C 408.3/408.5/234.5. After the initial color was dry I dipped a rag in my #2 mixture of A/I (I have 4 strengths of A/I)and wiped it over the pier and immediately wiped it off with a clean rag…I wanted the A/I to stay in the graining but not necessarily affect the C/A color
There’s slightly more than 100 piers/piling to cut and glue in place. I used a razor saw with a block of wood acting as a stop. I got slight variation in lengths. A mini miter saw with rigid stop would have been the “cat’s meow” but I couldn’t justify the cost for a tool I would use so seldom. On the piers a little long I gouged out the foam base. The piers which are a little short will be compensated for when I spread the ground cover.
The carriage drive cable is a white string soaked in a 50/50 mixture of A/I and Burnt Sienna craft paint per Brett’s instructions in the manual. I doubt following Brett’s recommendations will ever lead us down the wrong path.
The cable pulley in the last photo should actually be mounted more to the left of where its currently located. As installed the cable to the spool runs at an angle rather than straight on. I’m going to leave it as is because I fear I could cause more damage than the fix would warrant. Just something for anyone contemplating this build to remember. My intent in the build documentation is to highlight my missteps for someone else’s benefit.
That’s it for now. Up next will be the Log Deck where the logs are unloaded from the rail car.
Thanks for stopping by
Terry
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Also, I keep a fairly extensive journal on all of my builds…can’t tell you how many times I’ve needed one or two more pieces of stripwood to match something and without my written documentation to refer to I’d be scratching my head trying to remember just how I created a color/finish.
Terry
kebmo
May 2023
impressive!
Robert.G
May 2023
The least one can say. It’s like I’m building it all over again.. Beautiful. 
You are doing an excellent job Terry !!!
vietnamseabee
May 2023 edited May 2023
Thanks Kev and Robert. I’m moving along faster than my normal modeling pace and it probably has something to do with how enjoyable this build is
Terry
sdrees
May 2023
As I get older, I can’t remember how I did something on a previous project or something that I did earlier on my current project. the journal is a good idea, but I always forget to do it. Your work is amazing Terry. Oh and by the way, I always screw up something and have to fix it or do it over. That is just the way it goes.
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
If anyone is interested, I posted a few years back photos of the Sturgeons mill from when I visited it and got a personal tour during the Sacramento NNG convention…it has many shots of the mill and machinery. it should all still be up there…
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
Just looked…they are from 2020 and titled Sturgeons Sawmill. There a re a few shots of the log loading area on both sides…hope they help…
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Wow….great pix, Muddy….thank for the reference info
Terry
vietnamseabee
May 2023
Steve…I keep the journal very near my work area plus I’ve had to refer back to it so often its become second nature
Terry
MuddyCreekRR
May 2023
I think I have others…I will look and add them to the thread…
brownbr
May 2023
Nice job getting the dowels grained. That’s a difficult task.
admin
May 2023
Dowels look great.
Jerry
May 2023
Looks great great coloring on the piers!!
Jerry
TomMich
May 2023
Color and textures of the wood turned out GREAT!
vietnamseabee
June 2023
This update on my sawmill build deals with the twin cylinder mill engine. This is my second piece of machinery and I’m really beginning to enjoy them.
I’m going to add grease and oil stains but I wanted to get this posted for your review and comment.
Terry
Kevin L
June 2023
Looks great grease and oil stains would be add to the look.
Karl.A
June 2023
That is looking fantastic Terry, really nice wear marks, worn paint and subtle surface rust.
Looking forward to seeing it progress with the next steps that you outlined, it is going to be terrific.
Great colouring on the concrete base already.
Jerry
June 2023
Very nicely done.
Jerry
Robert.G
June 2023
Nice result. The further you go with this kit, the more you will like it !!! I did for sure.
admin
June 2023
Looks great, beautifully constructed and painted.
brownbr
June 2023
Nice machine.
If the wheel is still able to spin, I would spin it to try to hide the little bump in front.
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Thanks guys…..Bryan, yes it still spins….have been hesitant to put that drop of glue to finalize it ……amazing how photos see what doesn’t seem to be seen normally
Terry
ALCOALCO
June 2023
Very realistic. Well done.
kebmo
June 2023
nicely done buddy.
mikemettelka
June 2023
Terry, looks great to me!
TomMich
June 2023
Turned out great! Nice weathering on it.
EmeryJ
June 2023
Great job Terry. Keep up the fine work sir.
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Thanks Alco, Kev, Tom, Mike and Emery….it’s becoming the build i hoped it would be. Brett has really done a great job of engineering this sawmill.
Terry
Joel
June 2023
Nice work. I really like the whole project but the concrete is particularly nicely done.
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Thanks Joel….The concrete pads were weathered just as Brett’s instructions called for…primed from a rattle can then three C/A washes (704.5-408.3-408.9) . Dipping the alcohol saturated brush in one of the caulk colors and randomly spreading it around then repeating with the other two colors never making one color more dominant than the others. Repeating the process as required and not cleaning the brush between colors. Finally, after the alcohol/caulk is dry, touch a well saturated brush of alcohol/ink to the bottom edge letting A/I be drawn up the face to the top edge. Repeat as required…hard to beat Brett’s methods
Terry
Karl.A
June 2023
vietnamseabee said:
…hard to beat Brett’s methods
Terry
Aint that the truth, great work Terry !!!
MuddyCreekRR
June 2023
As Karl has always said as have a lot of us…the methods it the manuals are tried, tested and perfected. Always follow them first…and in particular if you have issues. One thing Brett is great with is customer service…contact him and he’ll do what needs to be done.
CarlLaskey
June 2023
Terry
That is a fine example of good workman ship. …Carl…
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Thanks Carl….
Muddy, I just looked looked up the phrase “customer service “ in my Funk & Wagnals and lo and behold…there was a picture of Brett. ;-))
glandesjr
June 2023
Good Morning:
I don’t post much but I am always on this forum looking at what the experienced builders such as yourself do so I can improve my modeling skills. I saw your comment regarding making the piers equal in size, and you may want to visit the web site ultimation.ca that makes a great “sander and repeater” tool that allows you to cut the exact same size again and again. I have both the slicer and sander/repeater tools and they are great and I use them on every Sierra West model I build. Just a thought that may help you. Keep up the great job you’re doing. I love your work and thanks for sharing.
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Thanks for the recommendation on the Ultimation tools…. I’m slightly aware of them but glad to know you’re satisfied with them.
Thanks also for your comments about my modeling. Truth of the matter is that just as you mentioned, any skill/knowledge i have in modeling is mostly due to following what’s being done here by other modelers. The guys who hang out here not only show their work but many times explain their process
Terry
vietnamseabee
June 2023
Seems Ive developed a stutter
Terry
KKarns
July 2023
Catching up here Terry. Excellent project and your work thus far is wonderfully done. Love your journal log steer, great idea. Look forward to following along.
kebmo
July 2023
i think we need an update bro…
vietnamseabee
July 2023 edited July 2023
Kev….summer activities/house projects/travel have gotten in the way of modeling. I have an update coming out in next months SS&I Gazette but that has all been covered here.
Hopefully next month the modeling will continue and an update will follow. If I recall, basic ground cover and ‘planting’ of the base structure is next up. Thanks for checking on me…. I know better than to try pulling a fast one on you ;-))
Terry
vietnamseabee
July 2023
A quick update…I’ve been traveling during July so the Sawmill is on hold until I return. However, I have been working on a Logging Disconnect which will ultimately be staged with the Sawmill.
A great little kit. It lends itself to modeling several disconnects at once but then I fear they would all look alike. Rather than that I’m going to build them one at a time with a couple of weeks or a month in between, Hopefully this will present some differences in color and weathering between them.
The ‘Bunk’, the cross timber which supports the log(s) is a cast resin piece. I’m not completely satisfied with how it finished out to look like wood. I’m open to comments and or suggestions. I finished the bunk in the photo as follows:
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Rattlecan gray primer
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AK783 Weathered Wood
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Diluted Reaper black paint wiped on with a cloth and wiped off (to leave the wood grain dark
Help me out here guys…with the bunk color or anything else you suggest
Terry
EmeryJ
July 2023
Getting the resin to match the wood exactly is something I struggle with as well Terry. Hopefully someone can elighten us.
KKarns
July 2023
Spot on Terry! Beautiful work my friend.
MuddyCreekRR
July 2023
As long as the heavier wood of the bunk and frame match…it’s ok…the smaller planks with age and color differently…and thats perfect…it looks really good…don’t work it too much…
vietnamseabee
July 2023
One more comment on how I did the rusty steel parts (coupler pockets/nbw).
I used Vallejo Rust Texture 73.821.
It doesn’t show up well in my photos but this product dries with a texture of rusty steel as well as an accurate color ……really pleased with it
Terry
vietnamseabee
July 2023 edited July 2023
Thanks Ken and Muddy for the vote of confidence …Emery, I’m confident someone will chime in with their method…. Muddy brought up a good point that the Bunk/Frame doesn’t necessarily have to match the deck boards
Terry
Karl.A
July 2023
I just use the same chalk and alcohol on the resin as on the wood and they come out the same. The same with resin benches and shelves.
vietnamseabee
July 2023
Thanks Karl…..you haven’t steered me wrong on a suggestion yet….i guess i assumed the different porasity ( not sure if that’s a word) of wood/resin would effect the color but stands to reason when the alcohol evaporates the chalk color will remain
Terry
Karl.A
July 2023
Prime the resin with tan as described in the manual and colour with C&A the same as the wood. It’s never failed me yet… and I’ve done a couple or few of Bretts parts along the way…
Robert.G
July 2023
Looking just fine !!!
vietnamseabee
October 2023
Finally a quick update on the O Scale sawmill…almost ready to begin the floor. The rail is hand laid. Not sure if I’m going to add rail spikes or not. The ballast is a ‘homemade’ concoction. I bought a bag of patio sand at Lowes (the stuff you sweep into joints of patio stones) and sifted it thru 3 sifting screens. To the medium courseness I added dark gray sanded grout and Durhams Rock Hard. As of now I haven’t used any white glue/water as a bonding agent. I want to see how the sanded grout/Durhams set up due to humidity in the air.
The ground cover is a mixture of ground up grass clippings/leaves/sticks/soil I collected from the walking path the wife and I use every morning. The material collects in low spots of the parking lot .
The gravel ‘road’ going to the sawdust bin is the same type mixture as the ballast except I used the fine courseness
Terry
Jerry
October 2023
Looks great. Looking forward to the start of the floor!
Jerry
KKarns
October 2023
Great progress Terry!
mikemettelka
October 2023
Looks fantastic!
brownbr
October 2023
The wooden retaining wall is a nice touch
vietnamseabee
October 2023
I like the retaining wall as well….not sure what I’m going to do about the ballast…..reason I haven’t glued it down is I can still remove it easily if necessary. I’m torn between setting the ties in ballast of just setting then in the soil…comments/advice welcome
Terry
Dave_S
October 2023
Terry
Great idea for the ballast.
“The ballast is a ‘homemade’ concoction. I bought a bag of patio sand at Lowes (the
stuff you sweep into joints of patio stones) and sifted it thru 3 sifting screens. To the
medium coarseness I added dark gray sanded grout and Durham’s Rock Hard.”
Be sure to let us know your final conclusion re the ballast experiment.
Go ahead and spike the rail. Rail spikes are a great detail and that is what the SierraWest structures are about, “great detail”.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Robert.G
October 2023
This is coming alive !! What a great kit this is !!!
vietnamseabee
December 2023
A very quick update on the sawmill. Finally finished graining, sawbanding, knots and staining the stripwood for the sawmill floor deck. 50+ lengths (24"). I’ve been traveling most of December so when I return home in January I’ll begin setting the floor boards
Terry
KKarns
December 2023
Love your drying rack! The board detail shown is really well done. It all starts with the wood and nice to see it treated so well! Wonderful progress Terry, shaping up to be a beautiful piece.
Kevin L
December 2023
Well done, yes a lot of time required to complete all the wood but time well spent to achieve a great model.
Karl.A
December 2023
Great looking progress on the wood boards and especially the structure base.
Looking forward to January when you get back to it and seeing your next update.
EmeryJ
December 2023
Keep it coming Terry. Great progress.
TomMich
December 2023
great wood detailing! It’s those subtle details that make a model.
brownbr
December 2023
Good progress. It sure is a lot of wood
vvietnamseabee
January 2024
Yesterday saw the beginning of the deck installation. Brett’s construction manual states the project is “half” completed…okay Brett, you’re the boss ;-))
Terry
CarlLaskey
January 2024
Terry it all depends on what half you are looking at very nice work there my friend.
ALCOALCO
January 2024
“A lot of wood” doesn’t do this justice. This is a testament to human perseverance!
mikemettelka
January 2024
Wow!
Kevin L
January 2024
Looks great Terry unfortunately my progress on this kit has slowed down daughter and her 2 children have moved back in with us due to cost of living in Australia going up, so my time taken up sorting the house out to accommodate them. Hopefully I will be able to get back into making progress on my sawmill soon.
Joel
January 2024
Looks great so far.
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks guys…as I add floorboard after floorboard I feel bad about covering up all that graining and staining of the underlying support timber…surely with some careful planning many, many of those timbers could have been placed as raw stripwood…no graining or staining. Just think of the time that could have been saved…WHOA…who am I kidding…I would always know I cut a corner just to move forward faster and I would always regret it.
I’ve heard over and over from my Buds here on the forum how they do things to the model that are rarely or never seen…but they (the modeler) know it was done and are satisfied they took the time.
Photos surely do show the flaws in a build…Looking at the attached photo I see I placed (3) knots next to each other in successive boards…the lesson, don’t fall into a routine. Nothing that a well placed barrel, box or pallet can’t remedy
Terry
EmeryJ
January 2024
Terry, your flooring is looking superb.
Robert.G
January 2024
Nice work Terry !!
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks Emery snd Robert….this is such an incredible kit.
Terry
Jim M
January 2024
Beautiful job Terry, this makes me want to start mine even more. I wanted to fabricate a base first and I’m struggling to get started with that.
KKarns
January 2024
You are absolutely right Terry, the extra effort is always rewarded! That is some fine wood detailing my friend. Even when you cover most of it up, any small part peeking through gives the viewer the knowledge that all the wood is treated that way and provides a subconscious “feel” of completeness. Beautiful work!
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks Jim and Ken….Jim, when it feels right to start you’ll know it’s time
Terry
Joel
January 2024
Love the colouring and texture of the boards. looks fantastic
admin
January 2024
I agree with all the comments, those boards look outstanding.
randyp
January 2024
Glad you made it back home safely. Great start on the floor. I too like your drying rack. Randy
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks Joel, Brett and Randy
Karl.A
January 2024
Beautiful attention to detail and result, looking incredible so far,
(and I don’t say that often.)
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks, Karl….a SWSM kit just seems to bring out the best a modeler has to give
Terry
TomMich
January 2024
Boards turned out great!
vietnamseabee
January 2024
Thanks Tom
Terry
