This thread was started in June, 2018
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018 in HO Scale Builds
I’ve been working on RRC (HO) for some months now and at Karl A’s urging I’m posting a few progress photos…this will not be a build thread as I model at less than a snail’s pace but merely progress photos that I’ll post from time to time.
Terry
Comments
admin
June 2018
Awesome Terry! Thanks so much for sharing. Wood coloration looks wonderful.
Karl.A
June 2018 edited June 2018
Thanks for jumping in and starting the thread Terry.
You seem to be making great progress on this fantastic kit.The wood colouring looks great and it also appears you have a few more walls in the background almost ready for assembly.
Progress is progress whatever the timescale, this hobby isn’t a race, time and care are needed, as it progresses we’ll look forward to the pics.
I know there a lot of these kits out there so this build will be followed by many,and those that don’t have it.
Theres always something to learn from a SWSM kit.
Thanks for sharing with us
Karl.A
mikemettelka
June 2018
I have this one and will be building it soon… I hope
Jerry
June 2018
Very nice. Great wood coloring.
Jerry
vietnamseabee
June 2018
One thing I’ll do differently on the next build is to not stain all the wood at once…in lieu of that I’ll only stain enough wood for the next phase I plan to work on…for example, the RRC contains a large quantity of 2x8 material which is used on multiple buildings of the RRC kit…hence, the wood coloring carries over from building to building…I prefer that each building has a slightly different character. Each succeeding staining would be slightly different…just something I’m going to do differently next time…any thoughts?../.also I still haven’t got the hang of wire brushing to give the aged look to the wood…dang, I see some of the photos posted and I swear the wood is the real thing…aged, weathered and split…It’s something I continue to work at and strive for…also haven’t perfected knot holes yet…I’m anxious to get at the castings…might jump to them to try the techniques I’ve been admiring from others postings…what a hobby, what a series of kits
Terry
Robert.G
June 2018
Love to see what’s gonna happen with this kit. So far , it caught my attention. Nice work on the wood. Even if you have stained all your wood, you still can make lots of different tones and shades. Don’t be afraid to experiment. On my builds, the right patination never comes at the first time or from the first can I open. Wood is very forgiving so work it till you’re satisfied. Keep posting… 
KKarns
June 2018
Nice work Terry, and great to see this classic kit getting such a nice going over. From the pictures, your wood work looks great. Close up of areas you’re not happy with would help the critique. Love the truck in the repair shop to smoke test the look!
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Update on the RRC…assembled the walls of the Warehouse this afternoon…added nail holes at the joints of the vertical siding…with a plastic tooth pick added A/I to highlite them…added a light coating of a dark green chalk to simulate a mold/mildew effect…the ‘cap’ at the top of the front wall is intended to represent a galvanized metal flashing with just a hint of rust developing…not entirely happy with how that came across…might go back and work on that…next stop on this ride is the Boiler/Welding shop…pretty mush following Brett’s manual as to what and when the next step will be…
Terry
KKarns
June 2018
Sound wisdom…and nicely done Terry.
Karl.A
June 2018 edited June 2018
Nicely done Terry, I thought I saw a few more walls ‘almost’ ready to be raised. and now , there they are.
Also, The last pic shows your great colouring of the stonework which I meant to comment on last time.
The colours, tones and variations in the siding on the ‘warehouse’ really looks nice and the contrasting (but not too much) red tone of the doors really works well the way you have them faded and worn. (2nd pic)
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Thanks guys…this is my first time using A/I and A/C…started this afternoon on the ‘peeling paint’ for the boiler/welding shop…gonna be a challenge. Several of the areas get covered up with shingles so I’ll be able to use the boards I’m not happy with there…I plan on experimenting with both the shingles that Brett sends with the kit and also real cedar sheets cut into shingles.
Terry
Karl.A
June 2018
Cedar sheets can work great in Oscale for shingles, but, be careful of thickness for HO.
They need to be paper thin or they’ll look "clunky’ and ‘overwieght’ and detract from all that fine SW detail.
Experiment for sure, but, don’t make sacrifices.
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Opinions asked for…just finished the 'peeling/faded" paint on the front wall of the Boiler/Welding shop…too much, not enough, just right, or start over…I varied from Brett’s manual in the of dabbing the paint on with a piece of Terry Cloth…I used a foam-tipped dabber I found at Michaels…also I previously mentioned I was going to take a look at real cedar for shingles…the cedar sheets I have are .011 in thickness which appears to be similar in thickness to the paper shingles…when I get to the shingles (soon) I’ll post photos and again ask for opinions…now be honest, how often does your wife, girlfriend or significant other ask you opinion…take advantage of the opportunity ;-))
Terry
KKarns
June 2018
Not bad Terry but my thoughts are that it is a bit blotchy appearing. I love Brett’s method outlined in O’Neills and on his superb “Damp Brushing” video here on the web-site . I add swipes of steel wool after the method to tone down any heavy areas…
vinceg
June 2018
The same word popped into my mind. There are some big blotches of paint that conflict with the overall faded look.
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Thanks Ken…O’Niells is on the way to me so I’ll check the procedure out and I’ll also look at the damp brushing video…I viewed the damp brushing video but many months ago…goes to show that reviewing/rereading something can be of great value
T
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Thanks Vince…gonna be in Lombard over Fathers day…gonna stop in at Lombard Hobby…any other suggested shops within 30-40 minutes of Lombard?
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
One thing I noticed while doing the ‘dabbing’…I dipped the foam tip in the paint and then ‘dabbed’ a couple of times on a scrap of paper…the large splotches are from my first attempts and I didn’t get enough of the excess off the foam before applying…one good thing about this front wall is the upper 1/3 of the wall gets covered with shingles…the lower 2/3 gets a sporadic placing of vertical boards over the paint peeled horizontals…much of what is showing now will be covered up anyway…I’m going to make the vertical boards merely c/a stained weathered boards minus the peeled paint
Terry
kebmo
June 2018
chicagoland hobby
Norwood Park
6017 N Northwest Hwy
Chicago, IL 60631
Phone number (773) 295-0436
there are others:
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Oh yea!!! the damp brushing shown in the video looks great…I like the idea of mixing up the techniques on separate groups of wood to vary the finished product…the next wall I do I’ll try the damp brush method…thanks for pointing me in that direction
Terry
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Thanks…will check out Chicagoland Hobby…34 minutes, light traffic…my wife googled a couple as well…she’s very supportive of my ‘addiction’…she says it’s much better than some I could have ;-))…I recently wrote a series of books on Vietnam and I think she likes the train addiction to my book writing but regardless she’s a good woman to have at my side (50 years + 4 years dating)
Dave_S
June 2018
Terry,
A must see at least once is DesPlaines Hobbies in DesPlaines, IL just a bit north of O’Hare airport. The store is about 22 miles from Lombard by car. They stock most current RR books, current and back issues of several RR hobby magazines and historical society pubs, HO and O scale models, kits, structures, decals and detail parts. They have a staff of model railroaders there every day.
DesPlaines Hobbies
1524 Lee Street
DesPlaines, IL 60018
Ron and Sue Sebastian (owners)
1-847-297-4976
Ron Sebastian, the owner, has listings in most of the hobby magazines. He might have the last all train hobby store in metro Chicagoland. He is a great supporter of our hobby and an O-Scale modeler himself. Every time I am back in Chicago to visit friends and family (from Tucson, AZ) I make a trip to the store. I make a list of all the goodies I would like to add to my hobby stash and when his sales come up I load up on stuff.
Enjoy, Dave S. Tucson, AZ (a former Chicago area resident)
vietnamseabee
June 2018 71.47.136.74
Thanks, Buddy…another shop to visit with the son/grandson
Terry
kebmo
June 2018 71.194.49.127
i can’t believe des plaines hobby wasn’t on that site i posted the link to. i’ve been there many times. sadly, they don’t have any On30 (at least they didn’t the last time i was there). they also have N scale though the selection isn’t the greatest.
kebmo
June 2018
oh, one other thing about des plaines hobby…it is a b**tch to find, so turn up your gps and pay close attention, and be ready to pull into a big parking lot. dsph in in a building on the side of the parking lot. pretty big sign but you can’t see it from the main drag.
Dave_S
June 2018
Terry,
Kevin is correct about the easy possibility of driving right by the store. As you are headed North on Lee Street you would have a very difficult time spotting it. The thing to look for is a rather large chain food/drug store, Jewel Foods and Osco Drug, on the west side of Lee Street, US 12 and US 45. Probably about 200 feet north of Oakton Street. Once you are in that shopping plaza you should easily spot the store.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Front wall of the Boiler/Welding shop…When Karl encouraged me to post pics of the railroad camp I was hesitant to do show because I model at a snails pace, however, I found that by posting progress photos the pace of my modeling has picked up considerably…might work for some of the others in the group…what say you…I’d like to see what you’re up too
Terry
mikemettelka
June 2018
Looking real nice! Seems like your moving right along to me!
KKarns
June 2018
That’s the beauty of the forum we have here. Rather than modeling alone you’re working up your material with all of us looking over your shoulder. It brings out your best work and serves as a motivator to get some bench time in and some great feed-back from all the great modelers here. This is a vital link to the SWSM fraternity and I impress upon Brett at every opportunity, the value he has created here not only for producing the finest fine scale models on the planet but for the support the forum and the web-site provide…Great work on that wall Terry.
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Thinking about redoing the shingles…a little taller and a little wider…also covering more of the 1x12 horizontal starter strip…maybe a little lighter color…I don’t want to step on the ‘land mine’ of “close enough is good enough”…any thoughts?
Terry
KKarns
June 2018
I think any bigger on the shingles and you may be drifting out of scale a bit. I agree on possibly covering the top horizontal piece of srtipwood. The manual shows it all but covered up…Ken
Karl.A
June 2018 edited June 2018
Terry,
last time you posted an update I was going to say “man, I thought you said you were slow…” and here you are with another one.
Of course, you are right, once you get ‘into’ a build and then post it, and others encourage you, or even ‘re-direct’ you… we become keener to get back to the bench, and the next step.
As Ken says, having fellow, like minded modellers along for the ride here on the forum always makes for a great journey. Motivation and support is a great thing, which goes both ways, so thanks again for sharing this build with us.
The wall looks great, the initial ‘blotchy’ white has faded away with all the distractions of the varied siding, the doors, windows, etc. Fantastic complicated simple design by Brett, and nicely executed by you.
As for the shingles, I was already borderline on suggesting they were close to too large, personally I definitely wouldn’t increase their size.
Lightening them could be done with a drybrushing, which I don’t do very often, but on shingles I do find it enhances them.
If you haven’t dry brushed before do LOTS of practice before you try it on this great wall, its easy to over do at first, and although it’s a very simple technique, until you get the ‘feel’ for it you can go too far, or too heavy really quickly.
A practice section is a quick and easy thing to build and very beneficial.
Karl.A
kebmo
June 2018
i’m saving my pennies for this kit. thought i had the dough last week but my car needed it worse…
what you’re doing on it looks great, but i agree with the fellas about not going to bigger shingles and i agree with your thought about covering more of the 1 x 12.
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
I’ve been wanting to try using real cedar sheets for shingles for some time so RRC became my first attempt at it…I began with a sheet size of 2 1/2 x 5 1/2 by .011 thickness…I first primed the sheet with a clear solvent based sealer. After letting the sheet sit overnight I used the coloring method suggested in the RRC manual…Reaper Grimy Black and SW Bone White applying the black first and the white second while the black was still wet…I then taped the cedar sheet to a piece of mat board and made pencil marks as cutting lines for a finished shingle size of 8-12" wide and 16" long cutting the shingle width first with the grain of the cedar sheet starting just below the tape which holds the cedar sheet to the mat board ending up with a series of cedar strips which are still taped along the top…clear as mud so far?..
I then cut the height of the shingles against the grain…a steel ruler as a guide and a new single edge blade worked fine to this point, however, I also cut up a second sheet which was slightly thicker (.018) and the steel ruler/single edge blade didn’t work as well on the cross cuts (shingle height) as I couldn’t hold enough pressure on the steel ruler to keep the blade from dragging the cedar strips out of position…my NWSL Chopper worked better for cutting the .018 sheet shingles to length…all that being said, I ended up with a pile of cedar shingles to apply individually. Every 3rd or 4th shingle I trimmed down a tad both in width and height with for a little variance in size…
Applying the shingles is a tedious chore but I think it goes well with the board on board concept of modeling as the degree of variance can be achieved in both color and size…
I hope this is somewhere near an understandable explanation in the use of real cedar sheets for a shingle roof application…also, not my original concept but rather a sharing of an article from Model Railroader November 1969 by Richard H. Christ and the instruction sheet which came with the cedar sheets by Dave Barron of Sierra Scale Models…if anyone is interested I will gladly email (or try posting here) the 2 page article from Model Railroader
Happy Shingling
Terry
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Looking at my pile of shingles another thought just popped into my head…since one side of the cedar is aged and the other side is the natural cedar color the option is available to have an area of the roof installed as a patch job where Homer Dunwoody, the head of maintenance and engineering for the RRC, at some point in the recent past has gotten up on the roof to replace some damaged shingles caused by the straight line winds that tore off a section of the roof…just sayin’
Terry
Karl.A
June 2018
If you do decide to go with a ‘patch job’ on the roof… I’ll go out on a limb and make a suggestion…
The following is my opinnion, disregard at will…
A roof ‘repair’ is a frequently done thing, maybe to break up the monotony, maybe to add interest, maybe cos people think it looks ‘cool’.
However they only seem to do them as though the roof repair was done yesterday, brand new and clean…
Look at the diorama as a whole… its full of patches and different layers, but they all show age, that’s what makes it all blend together so well, despite the differences, this was no accident.
If you do decide for a newer patch on the roof make it at least 6 months old, dulled down and aged slightly, instead of the usual 6 hours old, bright, and, it just stands out too much.
My thoughts
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Thanks for the comment Karl…hadn’t thought of it in that vein…and yes you and anyone else is welcome to ‘go out on a limb’ on my postings…
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Left and front wall of the boiler/welding shop…I took someone’s suggestion and moved the shingles down to cover most of the 2x12 horizontal starter board…on the left wall I trimmed out the trapdoor in the peak with the same 1x4 that the windows are trimmed out with…the manual shows the trapdoor plated in the shingles without trim but here again I borrowed a suggestion that the trim makes the door look more prototypical
Terry
vietnamseabee
June 2018
Lost the photos trying to do an edit on the previous post
Karl.A
June 2018 edited June 2018
You’re definitely making swift progress Terry.
I’ll have to look at these pics on a bigger screen than my phone, hopefully tomorrow, and I’ll make some further comments then.
The shingles covering the 1x12 more than previously definitely looks much better.
These small things make a big difference overall.
Karl.A
KKarns
June 2018
Yup, I agree with Karl…covering that strip looks much better. The white paint peel is blending in with the rest of the wall nicely. Gap below the double door appears a bit generous, may just be the reflection…great progres Terry.
vietnamseabee
June 2018 edited June 2018
Good eye on the doors…I dug thru the box of castings 3 times thinking I had the wrong doors for the opening until I realized the door clearance at the bottom accommodates rail and ties that pass thru the building
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Have been gone from the build for awhile but am back on the Boiler/Welding shop…I decided to a try Ken’s technique of the water damaged corner he introduced on his Foundry Build…comments are encouraged
Terry
kebmo
October 2018
terry.
the rotten corner looks like its going to turn out awesome, but the horizontal boards on the last pic look unnatural to my eye. the texture and coloring look great, but the edge cuts don’t look right.
brownbr
October 2018
I agree with Kevin on the board edges. The rotted area looks about right, but the edges of the boards would be more ragged in an area like this. That is ragged but not fresh broken…so I’d try to dig and gouge out the cut edges, lightly sand to smooth, then darken like mold. I think that would work.
Love the color and texture on the 3rd board down on the right. It really has the old-weathered barn color to it.
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Thanks for the comments and suggestions, guys…my thinking on the board ends was that there would be a vertical corner cap …the board ends would be covered…need to check photos of a finished kit…if no cap piece you’re correct in ‘weathering’ the ends’…that’s why I like posting my work here..getting an outside perspective…thanks
Terry
KKarns
October 2018
Very true Terry, your point is why this forum is such a great place to be!..your missing and damaged wood areas are fine to me just too abrupt as has been mentioned. Either way will look fine once things are together…
KCSTrains
October 2018
Terry, I’m glad you are stretching out to new things. Looks great. Phil
Karl.A
October 2018
Looking good Terry, the exposed framing on the bottom corner looks great, it’s going to be an eyecatching detail.
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
October 2018 edited October 2018 71.47.136.74
Nearly ready to assemble the walls of the Boiler/Welding shop…still have to install the last set of windows and door…an earlier comment(s) was made about the (undamaged) board ends at the wall corners…my plan had been to use a 1x6 or 1x8 corner trim assembly board at the corners which would have hidden the board ends…
'If all else fails, read the instruction"…so, I looked at Brett’s manual and sure enough, he calls for a 6x6 corner trim piece to be used at the corners which in fact would leave the horizontal board ends exposed…the plan now is to ‘roughen’ up the board ends, use the 6x6 as indicated and then make a determination as to further add the 1x8 corner trim…
Terry
geoawelch
October 2018 174.192.42.111
Looking great, Terry
admin
October 2018
Wonderful coloration and contrast between the siding and shingles. So interesting and full of character. I love the subtle peeling white paint. Thanks for sharing with us!
vietnamseabee
October 2018
I’m about to hand lay some track and want to have the ties appear like they would in a back woods environment where little usage means little or no maintenance…anyone have any photos of similar track they’ve laid…if not I’ll lay the ties in non-uniform spacing and not always parallel…they should probably be heavily weathered and split.
Terry
kebmo
October 2018
terry,
i would expect the ties to be well weathered and mostly buried.
Karl.A
October 2018 73.2.225.186
Non uniform spacing and unparrallel sounds good Terry. Also as Kevin says, nicely weathered, to match the age of the building and also down in the dirt to show they’ve been there and neglected for just as long as that aged structure… it all ‘ties’ together.
Just be carefull on the uneven spacing and parallel side of things… originally they would have been pretty true, as usuall, don’t over do it, make your marks and measurements for placement, then, slightly eyeball it and misalign as you go… subtlty will show up well and add to the effect of imperfection without looking exaggerated.
My thoughts,
Karl.A
KKarns
October 2018
That damaged corner looks very good, love the studs showing…
brownbr
October 2018 70.160.180.68
Excellent progress on one of my all time favorite structures.
I love handlaying backwoods looking track. I’ll post a couple photos here but only because you asked. I like a little bit of non-uniform spacing, but as Karl points out a little goes a long way with this. My process goes something like this:
Glue down the ties and let dry overnight. Give a heavy grain with a stiff brush. Sand lightly and brush with lighter brush to get rid of splinters. Color to suit. I have used chalks and plain IA. Both look good. Let dry. Lightly sand tops to give a sun-bleached look. Add dirt/ballast. I give a first layer of 50/50 sifted dirt/ballast. Glue down (I use matte medium). Let dry. Lay rail (paint while stuff is drying). Spike each tie. Sprinkle on very fine dirt to begin to cover up some of the ties…do this to taste. This too can be overdone. Add some cinder in top down the middle of the ties. Glue down. Add oil spill, etc. Add vegitation to taste. And have fun with this part of the build.
In these pics I have applied a heavy layer of oil only because of the nature of the diorama. No vegitation added yet. Note the 3rd tie from the right, far rail in the closeup has a rail joiner.
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Thanks for the comments and advice, guys…so great that no one is proprietary or ‘tight lipped’ with their ideas…the walls of the Boiler/Welding shop are put together and I’ll post photos shortly
Terry
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Boiler/Welding shop assembled walls…I’m going to add flooring at the ‘rotted’ corner and in most of the section where the pair of doors are open…going to add the wall shingles over the 6x6 corner trim…any other suggestions???
Terry
brownbr
October 2018
That exposed corner turned out nice.
KKarns
October 2018
Sure did…what a difference it makes seeing all the walls up and the roof staged…very nice.
Karl.A
October 2018
I agree with Ken and Bryan completely.
The assembled structure is looking superb, Great job. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
October 2018
Thanks guys…thanks to the Ken-meister for introducing the rotted corner concept on the Foundry build…as much as I like the damaged corner it’s one of those things to be used in moderation. RRC is a 4 building kit but in my opinion the corner should only be used once on only 1 building…”less is more”
Terry
vietnamseabee
December 2018
Haven’t posted any updates for awhile but I’m currently working on a fence at the Railroad Camp…Somewhere in my files I have a tutorial for printing signage on tissue paper and after adhering the signs to the fence, slicing the sign at each board joint to simulate a sign actually painted on the fence boards…anyone ever try this?..I 'll probably test it on a sample fence first as building this fence is VERY tedious…don’t want to have to redo it because of a botched sign job
Comments welcome
Terry
Robert.G
December 2018
Terry, I think you are doing a great job on this fence.!
Karl.A
December 2018 edited December 2018
Fence is looking great Terry.
Here is my method for “Tissue Printed Signs”. The pics in the thread are a little old and crude now as it was the first trials quite a few years ago. Its a great method and I’ve used it in various situations now.
Joel also used my technique recently to print ultra thin can lables for his O scale O’Niells diorama with great success.
Look forward to seeing yours.
Karl.A
vietnamseabee
December 2018
Thanks Robert & Karl…Karl, thanks for the link…anxious to give it a go
Terry
brownbr
December 2018
Joel’s technique is a winner.
KKarns
December 2018
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Like the old painted fence…nice and run down looking.
Joel
December 2018
Great work on the fence!
Hard to call it “Joel’s technique” when Karl explained it to me and I copied his work. But thanks for the shout out.
vietnamseabee
December 2018
Thanks Joel…there seems to be no proprietary ideas here…a method or idea for one is a method for all
Terry
vietnamseabee
February 2021
Based on the date of my last post it’s been on the plus side of two years since I’ve worked on RRC.
I received a couple of Brand X kits as gifts which I jumped over to and let RRC sit on the shelf. Typically I’ve jumped around in my model building merely for a change of pace and to not get stuck in a rut.
Soooo, I need to put some walls together on Brand X and then I’m going to jump back on RRC and hopefully see this one thru to the end.
I’ll be back shortly with some updates on RRC…See ya’ll soon
Terry
Karl.A
February 2021
We’ll certainly be looking forward to your updates Terry when you get back to it, I’ve really enjoyed your progress so far and cant wait to build the boiler shop in ‘O’.
vietnamseabee
February 2021
So after sitting on the dormant shelf for better than a year, it took some time to reacquaint myself where I had left off and where I should begin anew. I decided to place the track between the buildings using hand laid ties and rail. I’m using a low profile tie because I want the finish ties to appear level with the surrounding sand rather than a traditional ballasted profile. After graining the ties I’m coloring with four different shades of Pan Pastel chalk. I’ll be cutting the rail to 32 foot scale lengths so the question becomes, if the day comes when I set the RRC down into an actual layout, I’ll want the rail to be powered. I suppose each 32’ rail section will need a power feed attached to it. I’m thinking I’ll solder the feed to the bottom of the rail and feed it thru a small hole in the model substrate (plywood)…any thoughts? am I thinking correctly? …looking for comments, advice, guidance or even criticism.
Thanks
Terry
Mountaingoat
February 2021
Yes, power each piece of rail. However, if you only cut down through the web and not through the foot of the rail, it would still be only one section of rail over the entire length…Rick
Karl.A
February 2021
Rick got there before me, so, I agree with him.
vietnamseabee
February 2021
Thanks guys… I was foolishly going to cut the rail to 32’ lengths…never occurred to me to only cut the web…that’s why I appreciate this forum so much
Terry
Mountaingoat
February 2021
It will help keep the rail aligned as well. If you look at my Morton’s build where I showed just the trackwork you will see the rail joint bars hide the foot of the rail…Rick
SonofVietnamSeabee
February 2021
Looking good, old man.
vietnamseabee
October 2021
An update to my Railroad Camp build…weathering and cap strip needs to be done on the roof(s)…fence needs to be planted but not sure about signage…I’m replacing the cast metal doors for the welding shop with scratch built doors
Terry
KKarns
October 2021
Great work here Terry, love this kit with so many varied materials and structure design. Can’t wait to see your progress continue.
Robert.G
October 2021
That really looks great !!!
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Ken and Robert….also interested in any critiques/suggestions anyone might have….next round of pics I’ll try some outside shots and a few close ups….only so much quality can be achieved with a phone camera
Terry
EmeryJ
October 2021
Looks great Terry!!
TomMich
October 2021
Progressing nicely! Can’t wait to see it all come together.
sdrees
October 2021
Coming along very nicely Terry. I am not sure which building you call it, I like ther weathering on the horizontal siding material.
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks for taking a look, Emery, Tom and Steve…so much knowledge and experience to draw from this group
Terry
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Steve…I think you’re referring to the boiler/welding shop. The stripwood was “primed” with a/c 408.3/408.5/234.3…then drybrushed with Reaper SW Bone White then with a #11 blade and scratch brush
Terry
admin
October 2021
Fantastic work Terry, looking so forward to seeing this build continue! The boiler and welding shop looks awesome.
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Pappy and Brett….I’ve been working on this rascal on an off since early 2018….Kevin O’Niell , Mike Engler and Mike Chambers all documented their builds of RRC and they were great Go-Bys…of course there’s no better Go-By than the SWSM manual that comes with the kit…as an aside, while reading thru Kevin and Mike’s (C) builds I kept seeing names of great modelers that we’ve lost….so many and so talented
Terry
Karl.A
October 2021 edited October 2021
Looking so good Terry, your weathering, coloring and construction is all top level. So glad you’re continuing to share this journey with us.
Your boiler shop walls came out so good, cant wait for this final part of the O Scale trio, seeing your work on the HO version makes me want the O Scale version even more, I think its my favorite structure of the three.
Your progress is steady and impressive. Really nice.
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Karl…
T
brownbr
October 2021
I like it. A monorail I see.
Not a big fan of the tarpaper roof on the tarpaper addition…it looks too new. I’d suggest a thinner material such as tissue.
CarlLaskey
October 2021
TERRY.
A VERY NICE WORK AS ALWAYS I AM ENJOYING FOLLOWING ALONG…C/L…
Mountaingoat
October 2021
I love the coloring you got on the cedar shake on the boiler shop. Definitely a different approach on the peeling paint too with great results. The tar paper shack siding is fantastic. I guess they replaced he roofing at some point as it is way newer than the sides. That may be my place to possibly get them more similar. Otherwise doing a great job…Rick
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Goat…appreciate the input….the cedar shakes are real cedar…a lot of effort on those…at the time of the photo no weathering had been done on the roof(s)…doing that as we speak
Terry
Joel
October 2021
Terry really starting to take shape. Love the walls on the boiler /welding shop.
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Joel…has been s great experience on this build due to the varied materials
Terry
vietnamseabee
October 2021
Thanks Pap