This thread was started in November, 2021
Karl.A
November 2021 edited May 2023 in Painting Castings
I’m starting this thread to describe how I find, size, print and apply the labels I use on the incredible SWSM castings and detail parts.
I use a low grade 7 year old inkjet printer that cost 49.99 at the time and Photoshop 5.5 from 1998 or so that was free, so, no special equipment is required. Any standard printer and image software should work fine.
I’ll do a basic overview shortly and then get into more detail through out this week.
Comments
vietnamseabee
November 2021
Looking forward to another great Karl tutorial
Terry
Jim M
November 2021
Karl, this will be very helpful. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this.
Jerry
November 2021
This ought to be interesting!! Thanks giving the time to do it.
By the way how many of those little bottles does it take to quench your thirst??
Jerry
Pappy
November 2021
This is going to be great! Thanks Karl
Karl.A
November 2021 edited April 2023
EDIT
Thanks guys,
here is the basic list of the steps I take to produce the labels. I’ll do a step by step with screen shots in a couple of days next time I make some labels.
After that I’ll do a process on application.
First find an image of the label that you require and save it to your computer. A google image search will usually provide plenty of results to choose from. Such as “Acetylene tank labels”
- Open a new sheet in your graphics program. make this sheet 3.5"x4.5" at 1200dpi (400dpi will be fine for most things, start there)
Slide this into the background for use later.
- Open your downloaded image. Look at the properties, most are 72dpi, change this to 1200dpi (400dpi will be fine for most things, start there)
- Select only the area of the image you want to print and copy it to the clipboard. now minimize this original image out of the way.
- Click ‘new’ again, the new image dimensions should automatically be the same as the image you have copied to the clipboard. Make sure the dpi is 1200, this is important !
- Click ‘paste’ to import your saved image, it should fill the new box.
- Measure the area on your detail where you want the label. either the width or height, I generally use mm as it’s easier for me to work with on the tiny labels.
- Now, go into the properties of your image and change the print size to what you require for the dimension you measured, ie width - 4mm. Ensure the dpi remains at 1200 (400dpi will be fine for most things, start there) and you check constrain proportions. (This will mean the second dimension is changed automatically for you and the image proportions will remain the same.) Save this image.
- Choose “select all” and Copy this resized image to the clipboard.
- Go back to your original 3.5x4.5 blank sheet and paste your saved image there as many times as you need. Save this sheet.
You can now repeat the process from steps 2-8 with different labels to fill up the sheet or just go ahead and print if you have all you currently need.
If you have made sure every step is at the same 1200dpi (400dpi will be fine for most things, start there) your labels should print perfectly.
SAVE YOUR WORK OFTEN !!!
Next phase, ‘advanced’ options of what you can print on and how to apply to the detail.
SteveCuster
November 2021
That’s really great Karl! That Corona bottle is fantastic! Thanks for this.
Karl.A
November 2021
Screen shots added to previous post.
Pappy
November 2021 edited November 2021
Thanks Karl for this!
I also have an old copy of Photoshop and Illustrator.
Will experiment with labels.
Keep up your great work my friend!
Pappy
Joel
November 2021
Thanks Karl, always wanted more details on how you accomplish this
Karl.A
November 2021 edited May 2022
Thanks Steve, Pappy and Joel,
I keep editing the first post ( about 30 times now, ha ) but I think I’ve got it pretty clear now. So, I guess I’m going to leave that post alone now and move on to the next post.
But if anyone has any questions just ask away, even if it’s 5 or more years after this thread was originally posted.
Next phases/posts will be, ‘advanced’ options of what kind of papers you can print on other than regular copy paper, including Rizla… !!
How to do it, along with the pro’s and cons of each type of paper.
If there’s still interest after that I’ll outline methods of how to apply your printed labels to the detail part to eliminate visible edges,
or wall if you are printing signs instead of labels.
Karl.A
November 2021
Dang !!!
I’d completely forgotten that I used to print on Rizla papers, until I just typed it in the previous post.
I should have used my method for doing that on my recent acetylene tank labels in the 3D Parts thread, they would (hopefully) have looked so much better.
I’ll take pics as I redo the acetylene tanks in the next day or two and post them here…
MuddyCreekRR
November 2021
Like I said…sell the labels with 3D parts…lol
Karl.A
December 2021
Jerry said:
By the way how many of those little bottles does it take to quench your thirst??
Jerry
I shudder to think my friend, I’ll stay with the full sized ones… ha
vietnamseabee
December 2021
Thanks for your tutorial, Karl……I’m anxious to try your methodology
Terry
brownbr
December 2021
Thanks Karl. This is a great help
EmeryJ
December 2021
Thank you Karl.
Jim M
December 2021
Karl, Thanks so much. I use Gimp software so the procedure is a bit different but I was able to “translate” your instructions to work with that software. I was able to figure out how to change the image to the 1200 dpi setting and scale the image to the correct size. The resolution of my print was so much better. Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial. It was very helpful.
admin
December 2021
Thanks for the awesome tutorial!
admin
December 2021
MuddyCreekRR said:
Like I said…sell the labels with 3D parts…lol
Copyright issues brother, no can do!
Oldiron
December 2021
Thanks for this. Should be able to turn out some awesome signs with this method. Bob
MuddyCreekRR
December 2021
Oh…never mind…lol…I figured out how to make my own…just a bitch to get the sizing right…
Pappy
December 2021
Karl, looked up Rizla Paper. It’s used to role tobacco or other stuff…very thin stuff that can not go through any printers. Maybe another type Rizla paper?
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
You got it right Pappy, that’s the stuff. Cigarette papers. Super thin
I’ll show you how to get them through the printer later.
It’s basically the same as my method to print on tissue paper, but the benefit
is that the ink doesn’t bleed hardly and you can get a sharper print, great for
labels.
I just started individual shingling a roof panel and don’t want to stop halfway through.
Pappy
December 2021
Thanks Karl!
MuddyCreekRR
December 2021
I was playing with the standard Paint App and it works pretty good. open the photo you want to reduce…hit the resize option…change the 100 on both the horizontal and vertical to 12…and it works. You may need to play around with it a bit number wise…but it worked for me…
Karl.A
December 2021
Well, I kinda got busy on two or three other builds so didn’t have time to add to this thread, until now…
I need a super thin sign for one of the builds I’m working on so it’s a great time to explain/describe how to print on paper so thin that some couldn’t imagine getting it through a regular printer.
Pics of my process and a description in the next post on how to print on…
tissue paper
newsprint paper, and…
rizla’s (cigarette papers).
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
So, this post is focused on how to print on super thin paper that usually wouldn’t go through a regular printer.
Despite the fact that I am printing a wall sign in these images, the basic process is the same for labels.
Firstly, my definitions…
Tissue paper - the paper that you get covering the acetate sheets we use for windows to protect them in our SWSM kits. Gift wrapping ‘tissue paper’ is probably the same, but I havent used it.
Newsprint - that really thin paper Brett puts in the boxes as packing to stop your kit box sliding around in the USPS box.
Rizla’s - Cigarette rolling papers… Unfortunately, this is the only one that Brett doesn’t provide, so you’ll need to get your own.
Uses…
Tissue paper usually absorbs the ink and bleeds, so, is best for larger, low definition wall signs with less detail that you want to really ‘snug down’ to the wall.
Newsprint is great for high detail wall signs and labels, the edges are super thin for labels (but still need some work, to be described in a future post), also great for signs you want to conform to a clapboard wall.
Rizla’s great for medium/high detail on labels or small signs. It bleeds a little but is really thin.
Pictures and process to follow.
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
Alright, enough typing, time for the doing…
I wanted a really worn sign for one of my current builds to go on a weathered wall and blend in completely. The thinnest and best material for this I’ve found is ‘tissue paper’ because the sign is aged, low detail and just letters some bleed/blur really isn’t an issue.
Sized and scaled to fit where I want it.
I have a ton of 4x6 photo cards that used to come with my inkjet cartridges, I would have preferred cheaper cartridges at the time, but now I’ve found a use for them.
Step one, print your (sized/scaled) image onto the base paper, in my case the card, but use whatever you usually do.
Cut a piece of your super thin paper to cover the print, with a little extra. In this case I’m using tissue paper, but it’s the same process for newsprint or a Rizla, or…
Use some scotch tape to fix it down so it doesnt snag in the printer. I usually do the top first, then both sides and I dont bother with the bottom.
Make sure your thin paper is smooth and flat.
Don’t put tape where you are going to print.
Put your paper/card back into the printer, making sure the orientation and way up is correct. Reprint your image.
The image should reprint exactly where it was before, but now it will be on your super thin paper.
Cut your sign / label from the backer sheet , then cut it to size and apply it to your wall, detail part or where ever its final desination is.
Application tips and tricks will be in the next installment.
brownbr
December 2021
We love tips and tricks
vietnamseabee
December 2021 edited December 2021
Gotta love these Kar-torials. Thanks Karl for investing your time and talents
Terry
Robert.G
December 2021
I will echo that !!!
TomMich
December 2021
Great tutorial Karl! How did you get the original sign that you initially printed on the card stock to be so faded looking?
Karl.A
December 2021
Thanks guys, hope it helps.
Tom, I stole the logo from Brett’s webpage and opened it in Photoshop.
Selected the eraser option and brush option I wanted.
Erased out some of the black lettering.
I also did some resizing and fiddled with the contrast and brightness to my liking.
Thats it.
TomMich
December 2021
Thanks for the info Karl.
brownbr
December 2021
I’m calling the trademark police for the admitted theft above.
Karl.A
December 2021
haha, I think I’m safe on this one Bryan…
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
I re-did and reprinted the faded logo I originally printed because I had faded it too much and it didn’t show up as good as I wanted it to once applied.
Trial and error is sometimes necessary and not to be afraid of in all aspects of our work.
I did a reprint in the ‘draft’ setting, to minimise the excessive ink blur, but the print wasnt so sharp.
The application though shows the usage for this method which was my aim.
Trimmed around the new print to minimize visible edges
To apply the sign :- I dulcoated the face of the sign to seal the ink first.
put a small blob of glue ( I used the usual yellow glue) on the desk then dip a brush into clean water then into the glue and mix until you have a water consistency.
‘Paint’ this glue onto the area where you want the sign.
The area needs to be wet, this is what turns the sign backing transparent.
Pick up the sign with tweezers and carefully lay it down into the wet glue.
Take your time and be careful to get the sign in the correct position the first time,
once this super thin paper gets wet it’s not usually repositionable.
(although I did find that the dulcoat (which I hadnt used before) did give me a little
more flexibility to peel it up and re-lay it.)
Let dry overnight.
24 hours after application and dried I then scored/sliced with a new blade to enhance grain pattern/effect.
I like the effect for an aged painted sign on an aged painted/ peeling wall where the wall shows through.
I’ll get back to the labels and their techniques in the next update,
I just wandered off topic temporarily, but, hopefully it’s still useful to someone.
Robert.G
December 2021
All tips are useful Karl. Thanks for taking the time to explain all this…
TomMich
December 2021
Turned out great!
Jim M
December 2021
This is all fantastic stuff. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this and give us all a valuable lesson.
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
Thanks for the replies Robert, Tom and Jim, it’s great to hear from you.
Due to technical issues at my end on this PC it’s taking about an hour to an hour and a half to make a detailed post with pics for me to do right now, so, it’s great to read that the three of you are getting something out of it.
To wrap this technique up here is one example of how it can be used…
The fence was built and then an area masked off and finished with an area of peeled white paint.
The above technique was then used to add the aged lettering for the sign on the fence.
Next up… little labels and hiding those edges.
Mountaingoat
December 2021
Been following this thread closely. Haven’t had the chance to try any of it yet but definitely going into my tips and tricks file for future use. Extremely useful Karl. Thanks for these techniques…Rick
Jim M
December 2021
I know this is a horrible picture, but I just wanted to do a shout out to say that this tutorial has helped immensely. I have never been able to shrink images this small and have them be even close to readable. I’m using GIMP software, so I had to do things a bit differently but just knowing it can be done was a huge benefit. This label is a little over a mm tall and you can still read it, amazing. Thanks Karl.
PS, could you do a tutorial on how to pick up the label after you cut it out? ;-). My hands are too big to even pick it up. I even struggled with tweezers for about 10 minutes.
Incidentally, the “bottle” is sitting on a popsicle stick. I really struggled getting a macro shot with enough light.
Karl.A
December 2021 edited May 2022
Looks fantastic Jim, well done indeed. Thanks for sharing your great success and result.
To pick up the tiny label initially, first lick the point of a tooth pick to get it damp, you dont want too much moisture it may smear the inkjet ink.
Touch the damp point to the label, it should stick and you can lift it up off the desk.
You will then be easily able to grab hold of it with some pointed tweezers.
Or you can just exhale on to your finger tip, as if you were trying to fog up some glass, then press your fingertip onto the label, it should stick and you can lift it up, it’s then easy to use your pointed tweezers to remove it from your finger tip and hold it with the tweezers.
Great to read my technique is working for you.
Jim M
December 2021
Good idea, thanks
vietnamseabee
December 2021
Very nice, Jim.. thanks for passing your success along
Terry
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
I went back and added the “Application method” I used for the sign onto the peeled painted wood as I had neglected to type it out the first time I posted.
I added it between the two pictures.
Pappy
December 2021
Karl, the only word I can say is outstanding work!
And thanks for sharing this.
Jim, excellent. Will be almost impossible to do this in HO
Jim M
December 2021
Pappy, I don’t see how it could be done with HO. I don’t even know how anyone can see the bottles in HO scale. Modeling HO scale is so much harder, you guys are amazing.
I printed a few labels for some of my own 3D prints. I drew up and am now printing a soda vending machine to remind me of a scene from my youth. I hope it turns out. Pull out bottles from the old vending machine and the empties would be set back in the crate which was lying by the machine. 10 cent Dr. Pepper, great stuff, it was bottled in my hometown. So much better than it is now.
Pappy
December 2021 edited December 2021
I know right? But as we all get better, there is always a solution for labels on HO bottles.
Karl and others are the masters and just maybe…an HO label for these bottles.
Can you imagine labels for N scale bottles…lol.
Keep up your great work Jim.
MuddyCreekRR
December 2021
I can’t even envision N scale bottles…
Jim M
December 2021
I tried printing some “labels” on some newsprint paper that we had from packing some things. Disappointed that the print didn’t come out as clear as it did on the regular printer paper. I thought that would work great, but it doesn’t seem to do as well. On the left is the printer paper, it looks like the ink bleeds a little more on the newsprint. It doesn’t look like that shows up so well in the picture but when I zoom in, the print is much blurrier on the right. Bummer. I’m trying to print the signage for my Dr. Pepper vending machine.
Karl.A
December 2021 edited December 2021
Try reducing the resolution to 600 dpi instead of the 1200.
This will halve the amount of ink the printer is putting down and should hopefully reduce the bleed with little or no loss in clarity.
You can also go down to 400 or 200. Try one label at different dpi instead of doing a whole sheet. When you find a point you are happy with use that as your baseline in all the steps outlined in my first post.
If you change the dpi this will also change the print size most times. (Twice as big.)
So, make a note of your print size, change the dpi, then go back and check your print size and adjust it back to what it was originally if necessary.
I also just thought of another way to try to reduce the bleed while I was typing this but havent tried it yet, when I do try it later for you I’ll post the results, and, the method.
Looking good Jim.
Jim M
December 2021
OK, I’ll try that. Thanks
geoawelch
December 2021
What a fantastic tutorial, Karl.
Thank you, not only for coming up with it but, for taking the time to document the steps.
As a technical writer during years past, I can attest that it is not easy to do clearly and well.
George
Joel
December 2021
Just fantastic Karl. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this properly.
vietnamseabee
December 2021
When I get some time I think I’ll try Karl’s techniques on an HO vintage work shop wall calendar…like a Rigid Tool calendar
Terry
vietnamseabee
May 2022 edited May 2022
This is such a great Kar-torial I thought is was worth bringing to the top of the list again….there are so many great threads buried and out of site….I have learned a lot merely by going thru several pages of old threads
Terry
Karl.A
May 2022 edited May 2022
Thanks so much Terry, I’m glad it’s helpful.
I’ll add to it with some more info, tips and tricks, when I finish my current build.
kebmo
May 2022
vietnamseabee said:
Gotta love these Kar-torials. Thanks Karl for investing your time and talents
Terry
no kidding. this is great stuff. thanks karl.